This video is so helpful! I’ve watched a few how-to videos now and everyone has a slightly different style but your attention to detail is exactly what I was looking for. I have a question. I will be replacing 40 year old windows on my post and beam home built in 1983. Everything is wood (wood windows, wood siding) and the window exteriors are pretty beat up (some are rotting). Instead of replacement windows, I’m planing on ripping out a little extra and installing new construction windows to ensure everything is too notch. If I find that my house wasn’t wrapped or the wrapping is not in great shape, is there an extra step I should take to cover the flashing tape?
Thanks for watching and your comment. I think what you're doing sounds like a great plan. I would look for any exposed framing material and make sure to wrap it so that you do not have moisture penetrating those areas in the future.
Nice work.. Unfortunately that doesn't meet code in Wis/Minn. 5° sill, flex wrap. Brake up drip flash. Of course I have no idea if Texas uses UDC or some other code quality.. But.. During our negative 40 winter... I'd be willing to come learn from y'all lol. Thanks again for your videos, appreciate ya.
@@HoustonWindowExperts thanks ! I found the video. very helpful. If you could please do a full review of NT windows - since they are offered by many installers around here. I did see the NT vs anderson comparison which was very good.
If the idea is to do it like shingles from the bottom up, it seems counter intuitive to put the bowties in before the bottom piece. Can you speak to this? Thanks! Asking to learn.
Sure, Grant. In a perfect scenario you'd never have to account for water getting behind the brick or siding but it does happen and the flashing is there to protect you in the event there was another failure above the window. You want to end up with the higher layers overlapping the one below it. As water runs down it will continue to shed down the surface of the flashing. If it were reversed, water would have an open seam to get behind the flashing and to the sheathing or framing where it could do damage or make its way inside of your home. The goal is to get the water to the bottom of the wall and out of the weep holes.
Very well done. I learned a lot. Thanks.
I like the bow tie trick, no need for expensive stretchy tape.
Jeremy does a great job of installing windows. I like that bow tie trick myself.
Great vid
So well thought out. This is impressive!!!!!!!!
Thank you for watching and your comment.
Thanks for this video; helps me out for when the windows go into my house build I know what to look for to be sure it was done right.
Great! Thank you for watching.
Thanks for sharing
Thank you!
You're welcome!
thank you for the information
You're welcome
This video is so helpful! I’ve watched a few how-to videos now and everyone has a slightly different style but your attention to detail is exactly what I was looking for. I have a question. I will be replacing 40 year old windows on my post and beam home built in 1983. Everything is wood (wood windows, wood siding) and the window exteriors are pretty beat up (some are rotting). Instead of replacement windows, I’m planing on ripping out a little extra and installing new construction windows to ensure everything is too notch. If I find that my house wasn’t wrapped or the wrapping is not in great shape, is there an extra step I should take to cover the flashing tape?
Thanks for watching and your comment. I think what you're doing sounds like a great plan. I would look for any exposed framing material and make sure to wrap it so that you do not have moisture penetrating those areas in the future.
I've seen where some people will leave the shimmies in, and others who the shimmies out. What do you prefer?
Nice work.. Unfortunately that doesn't meet code in Wis/Minn. 5° sill, flex wrap. Brake up drip flash. Of course I have no idea if Texas uses UDC or some other code quality.. But.. During our negative 40 winter... I'd be willing to come learn from y'all lol. Thanks again for your videos, appreciate ya.
Things are obviously going to be different in your climate!
Great info!
Thank you for watching
Awesome video, one question so you do have to remove the shins before filling the bottom gap right?
The shims will stay in place.
I'd use liquid flashing like prosoco or zip stretch tape.
Good video without over doing it.
Thank you for watching and for your comment.
Can you make one on how to install aluminum clad windows?
Sure, I'll add it to the list. It would be pretty much the same way except for the trim.
how different is it for new build vs replacing existing window ?
It is a very different process. Please check out a video we posted a couple of weeks ago about how to install a leak proof replacement window
@@HoustonWindowExperts thanks ! I found the video. very helpful. If you could please do a full review of NT windows - since they are offered by many installers around here. I did see the NT vs anderson comparison which was very good.
If the idea is to do it like shingles from the bottom up, it seems counter intuitive to put the bowties in before the bottom piece. Can you speak to this? Thanks! Asking to learn.
Sure, Grant. In a perfect scenario you'd never have to account for water getting behind the brick or siding but it does happen and the flashing is there to protect you in the event there was another failure above the window. You want to end up with the higher layers overlapping the one below it. As water runs down it will continue to shed down the surface of the flashing. If it were reversed, water would have an open seam to get behind the flashing and to the sheathing or framing where it could do damage or make its way inside of your home. The goal is to get the water to the bottom of the wall and out of the weep holes.
@@HoustonWindowExperts I think what he's trying to say is why put the bowties on top of the sill tape as a shingle effect instead.
Is that caulk or 100% silicone or caulk &silicone mixture
The product in the video is a Silane Modified Polymer and contains no silicone. Thanks for watching!
I don't understand why you're putting that pan on top of the
Tyvek?