It's a true pleasure watching a professional craftsman do his thing! I can't count the number of times that I have heard some variation of "this window is junk, it leaks" when 90% or more of window problems are all about installation.
Great video! learned a lot so I make sure my windows get installed right. One suggestion for your video is to put a little food coloring in the water to make it more visible.
I've done window replacements in the past, but figured there was probably some things I should know that I haven't been exposed to, and boy was there!! Just wanted to thank you guys for such quality info and video content, great job all around
Another great video Jeff. Is this installation for all types of window installs (brick, stucco, siding, etc.). I looked back on some of your other window installation videos and didn't see this flashing installed. Is this a new technique or was it one of the secrets you didn't want filmed at the time?
Almost always. There are times that the connection between the framing and the substrate leaves very little room to work with. Otherwise, I'd say it can be done 80+% of the time.
Just to clarify - these examples are with windows without a flange. What about installing a retrofit window WITH a nail flange? (which appears to be super common based on what I see at the DIY stores and what i see being installed at neighbor houses)
Thank you (again)! Helpful information at each step of this process . What about replacement window installation with a nail flange (where they cut out the siding and then replace it afterwards) ? Is that worth the extra price as compared to proper block installation as demonstrated in this video ?
This is also what I wondered. When I had a window guy out recently to bid my window replacement, he suggested the only two options were: 1) retrofit windows inside the old frames or 2) new construction with the nail fin, which would require replacing trim and repairing stucco. I didn’t realize there was a third option and I’m very curious if there’s really no reason to pull off the trim I’m also wondering how this would apply to stucco - the front half of my house is wood trim/vinyl siding and the back half (with most of the windows) is stucco. I really don’t want to give up the glass space with retrofit windows inside the old aluminum frames, and that would also mean trusting the original window frame install
Thanks for watching and your question. Are you in California? California and a few other states have some unique regulations that require that process.
I can only see one weak point though. At the top the tyvek is compromised and can potentially wick water up damaging the underlying OSB or Plywood over time. Would it make sense to tuck a piece of the flashing tape under the house wrap and flash the top plate then install the ridgid flashing? To me that would make this system impenetrable, although I do understand how installing flashing between the brick siding on real jobsites can already be challenging :) Very nice system though, thank you for sharing.
When asking for bids just tell installers I'm requiring the use of flashing tape and rigid header flashing with all windows? Will they even know these materials and processes? I'm in Austin and no one I've had come out has ever mentioned this process, and boy does it seem important (to this homeowner).
How do you caulk your window method after placing the flashing on? Will adding caulk around the outside of the window create the caulk to trap water in between the flashing and caulk if water were to enter there? Do you create an opening for the water to seep out if it does go on the flashing?
@13:32 Are you screwing through the flashing tape to mount the window? If so, does this create a potential leak point in the waterproof seal? I am about to do a renovation and replace a single window and your videos have been extremely useful in evaluating which contractors are competent.
Great video! Can you make a video to talk about how to find and choose the right installer who can do the due diligence like you have done? (Also, i'm based in San Diego)
Thank you for watching and your comment. That is a great idea for a video. I will put that on the list. We know a great window company near San Diego. Please check out JeffsList.com
We made a separate video for that. It'll be coming out in a couple of weeks. It's a video demonstrating how to install a window and a new construction setting.
@@HoustonWindowExperts yes. Well if the original window is flashed good already and they put in a retrofit window. The existing flashing will still be used correct. Also can you show me a video of a retrofit window being installed in an existing new construction window. I was told to always to replace a new construction with a new construction
You can insert a window inside a window and that's called jumping the frame. Check this out. th-cam.com/video/MwvFTbidHx0/w-d-xo.htmlsi=VhVxEmkvYa3_hODX
He said he only does a couple of year. How much more is a full frame compared to jump the window? I read it’s like 59-100 percent more. So people always pay that much more per window?
@@HoustonWindowExperts can this flashing tape can be used for window replacement external having the sidings externally or it’s only for new construction ?
This tape is used for new construction and, in our application, replacement windows. I do not know if anyone in my industry that does a flashing tape on their installations for replacement windows like we do.
I do not know anyone who does window repairs in your area. I would just use Google search and do your research as best as you can. I'm sorry to hear you're having issues.
No! 99% of installs in the south east are caulked to the J and no this is not proper. If the J was mitered properly and taped to the tyvek then yes it would be fine until your J caulk fails. However, the chances of the J being sealed to the Tyvek are slim to none. You can remove the siding and tape the J yourself or just install a window with a nail flange and tape properly then reinstall the vinyl.
I may be wrong but it looked like when putting screws on each end of the Rigid head flashing, it was bowing in the middle. When the window was installed, did the center of the Rigid head flashing get pushed up level by the window and away from the caulking maybe causing a potential leak?
There is a half of tube of caulking above that. Actually, the front of the flashing does not matter much since we want the water to make its way to the sides or to the front.
For the screws, do you use 8x3 1/8 inch or 9x3 1/8 inch? I see two different sizes for 3 1/8. I am installing Pella Impervia (full frame replacement windows)
I work for a high-end, well known window & door company here in central texas. I mentioned this process repeatedly since I started. Now I'm most likely being terminated for continuing to bring it up...what a shame
Question. I watched my new home built every day. I finished the ceramic tile and granite and travertine and tumbled marble on the interior in kitchen and baths. I custom painted it all. A lot of work!!! But I was a bit concerned how they did the flashing on my windows and doors. The plans called for 1/2” OSB siding on 2x4 studs. I have double king studs on each side of every window and door. Then they did Tyvek and wrapped it inside the windows. But they then did some good flashing around each window installed over the Tyvek and touching the edges of the windows frames and then caulked. Then the EIFS was applied and the sub who did it was excellent. He has the best reputation in My area. However my question is this… Did they do the windows flashing right?
I would not say that.... I'd say that this is information that you can use to make sure your installer is doing the very best they can to prevent leaks. Not everyone can use us because we only serve Houston.
Unless you live within 50 mi of houston, we do not sell windows to people. If you're like me to suggest someone who does a great job in your area, please check out my website. JeffsList.com
It's a true pleasure watching a professional craftsman do his thing!
I can't count the number of times that I have heard some variation of "this window is junk, it leaks" when 90% or more of window problems are all about installation.
Exactly!
Great video! learned a lot so I make sure my windows get installed right. One suggestion for your video is to put a little food coloring in the water to make it more visible.
Great idea!
I've done window replacements in the past, but figured there was probably some things I should know that I haven't been exposed to, and boy was there!! Just wanted to thank you guys for such quality info and video content, great job all around
Thank you for watching and your comment!
@@HoustonWindowExperts of course! I assume I'll be watching many more (and I'm sure they will be just as valuable)! Thanks again
Thank you
thanks so for all your knowledge and expertise on windows. Your a real blessing to those looking for your teachings.
thanks again Bryan
Thank you for watching and your comment.
Another great video Jeff. Is this installation for all types of window installs (brick, stucco, siding, etc.). I looked back on some of your other window installation videos and didn't see this flashing installed. Is this a new technique or was it one of the secrets you didn't want filmed at the time?
You busted me! This is something that we called a secret in our previous video. We've decided to share it with everyone.
@@HoustonWindowExperts And it's for every installation type?
Almost always. There are times that the connection between the framing and the substrate leaves very little room to work with. Otherwise, I'd say it can be done 80+% of the time.
Great demo!
Thank you
Just to clarify - these examples are with windows without a flange.
What about installing a retrofit window WITH a nail flange? (which appears to be super common based on what I see at the DIY stores and what i see being installed at neighbor houses)
If you can access the opening that would be great. That would require removing siding, brick, or Stucco.
Good demonstration but put a color dye in the water to make if much more visible.
Good idea
Thank you (again)! Helpful information at each step of this process .
What about replacement window installation with a nail flange (where they cut out the siding and then replace it afterwards) ? Is that worth the extra price as compared to proper block installation as demonstrated in this video ?
If you install the windows the way we illustrated, you would not get any benefit to removing the siding.
This is also what I wondered. When I had a window guy out recently to bid my window replacement, he suggested the only two options were: 1) retrofit windows inside the old frames or 2) new construction with the nail fin, which would require replacing trim and repairing stucco. I didn’t realize there was a third option and I’m very curious if there’s really no reason to pull off the trim
I’m also wondering how this would apply to stucco - the front half of my house is wood trim/vinyl siding and the back half (with most of the windows) is stucco. I really don’t want to give up the glass space with retrofit windows inside the old aluminum frames, and that would also mean trusting the original window frame install
Thanks for watching and your question. Are you in California? California and a few other states have some unique regulations that require that process.
@@HoustonWindowExperts ah yes I am in California. That makes sense then
I can only see one weak point though. At the top the tyvek is compromised and can potentially wick water up damaging the underlying OSB or Plywood over time. Would it make sense to tuck a piece of the flashing tape under the house wrap and flash the top plate then install the ridgid flashing? To me that would make this system impenetrable, although I do understand how installing flashing between the brick siding on real jobsites can already be challenging :) Very nice system though, thank you for sharing.
I'll share your thoughts with Jeremy. Thanks for watching and your comment.
Ahhh, the old "caulk and walk" installation... Maybe now people will understand what you can or can't get when you go with a cheaper bid.
Exactly!
You should have put some food coloring to color the water so your leaking examples would have been more visible by the camera and viewers.
When asking for bids just tell installers I'm requiring the use of flashing tape and rigid header flashing with all windows? Will they even know these materials and processes? I'm in Austin and no one I've had come out has ever mentioned this process, and boy does it seem important (to this homeowner).
I don't think anyone else goes to the cost and trouble.
Ask if they have a leak proof guarantee and for how long.
How do you caulk your window method after placing the flashing on? Will adding caulk around the outside of the window create the caulk to trap water in between the flashing and caulk if water were to enter there? Do you create an opening for the water to seep out if it does go on the flashing?
Matt, the system we use will not trap water between the two sets of caulking. It will travel down the sides and empty at the bottom.
@13:32 Are you screwing through the flashing tape to mount the window? If so, does this create a potential leak point in the waterproof seal? I am about to do a renovation and replace a single window and your videos have been extremely useful in evaluating which contractors are competent.
The tape is self healing. We use a #8 screw, it's a tiny hole.
Great video! Can you make a video to talk about how to find and choose the right installer who can do the due diligence like you have done? (Also, i'm based in San Diego)
Thank you for watching and your comment. That is a great idea for a video. I will put that on the list. We know a great window company near San Diego. Please check out JeffsList.com
What happened to the third window you were going to installed?
We made a separate video for that. It'll be coming out in a couple of weeks. It's a video demonstrating how to install a window and a new construction setting.
What brand of flashing tape do you use
ecommend on your window installations? Please advise
We like Dupont.
Can you put a retrofit window in an existing new construction with attached j channel
Yes. Just be sure that you flash it properly so it does not leak.
@@HoustonWindowExperts yes. Well if the original window is flashed good already and they put in a retrofit window. The existing flashing will still be used correct. Also can you show me a video of a retrofit window being installed in an existing new construction window. I was told to always to replace a new construction with a new construction
You can insert a window inside a window and that's called jumping the frame.
Check this out.
th-cam.com/video/MwvFTbidHx0/w-d-xo.htmlsi=VhVxEmkvYa3_hODX
He said he only does a couple of year. How much more is a full frame compared to jump the window? I read it’s like 59-100 percent more. So people always pay that much more per window?
I don't think so...the only extra cost should be materials based.
I would like to know where i could buy the flashing tapes and rigid flashing tapes you used in installing the windows please.
These are available at Home Depot. Thank you for watching
@@HoustonWindowExperts can this flashing tape can be used for window replacement external having the sidings externally or it’s only for new construction ?
This tape is used for new construction and, in our application, replacement windows. I do not know if anyone in my industry that does a flashing tape on their installations for replacement windows like we do.
@@HoustonWindowExpertsWho can I hire in San Diego to repair my poorly installed leaky windows?
I do not know anyone who does window repairs in your area. I would just use Google search and do your research as best as you can. I'm sorry to hear you're having issues.
Would caulking the replacement window to existing J-Channel be considered a sealed installation for water and air intrusion?
I've never done it that way. I'd hate to guess. Sorry.
No! 99% of installs in the south east are caulked to the J and no this is not proper. If the J was mitered properly and taped to the tyvek then yes it would be fine until your J caulk fails. However, the chances of the J being sealed to the Tyvek are slim to none. You can remove the siding and tape the J yourself or just install a window with a nail flange and tape properly then reinstall the vinyl.
I may be wrong but it looked like when putting screws on each end of the Rigid head flashing, it was bowing in the middle. When the window was installed, did the center of the Rigid head flashing get pushed up level by the window and away from the caulking maybe causing a potential leak?
There is a half of tube of caulking above that. Actually, the front of the flashing does not matter much since we want the water to make its way to the sides or to the front.
For the screws, do you use 8x3 1/8 inch or 9x3 1/8 inch? I see two different sizes for 3 1/8. I am installing Pella Impervia (full frame replacement windows)
We use #8
@@HoustonWindowExperts Thank you for your expert advise
You're welcome
I see you use and recommend osi quad max sealant and OSI Quad Foam. how about the flashing tape, which one do you use and recommend?
I like Dupont the best.
@@HoustonWindowExperts Thanks a lot
You're welcome
I work for a high-end, well known window & door company here in central texas. I mentioned this process repeatedly since I started. Now I'm most likely being terminated for continuing to bring it up...what a shame
That stinks! You would think that they would want to use the best systems possible.
what brand of Rigid head flashing do you use here?
We fabricate our own.
Question. I watched my new home built every day. I finished the ceramic tile and granite and travertine and tumbled marble on the interior in kitchen and baths. I custom painted it all. A lot of work!!! But I was a bit concerned how they did the flashing on my windows and doors. The plans called for 1/2” OSB siding on 2x4 studs. I have double king studs on each side of every window and door. Then they did Tyvek and wrapped it inside the windows. But they then did some good flashing around each window installed over the Tyvek and touching the edges of the windows frames and then caulked. Then the EIFS was applied and the sub who did it was excellent. He has the best reputation in My area. However my question is this… Did they do the windows flashing right?
It sounds right from what you're telling me. Congratulations on your new home.
Show me how to do a brick window. It seems that I might have to do my own.
Here you go...
th-cam.com/video/m5wYhQCRN54/w-d-xo.html
Honestly, this comes across as “you better use me because it’s a roll of the dice otherwise.”
I would not say that.... I'd say that this is information that you can use to make sure your installer is doing the very best they can to prevent leaks. Not everyone can use us because we only serve Houston.
Most companies will foam and caulk the windows. Is there an industry code that requires you to reflash or is this just a preferred method?
That's an extra step we learned to take. We believe that foam and caulking alone is not enough.
Hey would bring tape is that did you used
I'm sorry, I do not understand your question. Can you say it again?
@ HWE, he meant “who’s the manufacturer of the tape used?”
Can people order windows from you without installation?
Unless you live within 50 mi of houston, we do not sell windows to people. If you're like me to suggest someone who does a great job in your area, please check out my website.
JeffsList.com
Is this AAMA approved installation?
Yes!
Next time use colored water so we can see better.
Good idea.