Throughout his career Tommy has peeled away a lot of siding in this area only to find rot from years of water damage, which is why he’s a firm believer in this kick-out style flashing. He’s seen it on doors and below windows.
"Throughout his career Tommy blablabla, yada yada yada" Stop! You're silly! Knock knock, who's there? SHHHHHHH, shut it! Look ma I'm on TH-cam, I have a job with This Old House yapping about my idol... Get a hold of yourself! You're annoying. Jesus!
This particular task is a good depiction of how drastically building standards can change. It’s awesome to think how well this will prevent water entry, but at the same, it took 3 sets if hands 30 minutes do to this (1-1/2 hours total just to flash and install the window). If you’re spending this kind of time on this, then adding the time to spray foam, trim the inside, trim the outside, flash the trim, and all of the materials, you’re in to some huge money to do just one window. It’s an ongoing predicament in my head. We spend all this time and money taking things to the Nth degree, yet there are still houses all over New England with 100 year old windows, no modern vapor barriers, and no rot has started in the wall. The old timers had something figured out. Meanwhile, just the other day I pulled out some 30 year old windows at a client’s house and the flexible adhesive flashing membranes were all cracked and flaking anyway. I am inclined to try and convince clients that it’s worth using the best possible installation method, but every time I hand them a bill for a few thousands dollars to install a couple windows I always wonder if all this fancy stuff is going too far.
The predicament seems, to me at least, that the old timers left ample space for houses to "breath". Even if moisture did get into spaces, those space would naturally dry out quickly. This had the obvious downside of being energy inefficient, but oil was cheap back then. Insulating old homes usually means sacrificing airflow. Modern homes can be designed to incorporate good airflow and insulation, but that adds to cost, and old homes aren't being redesigned, they're being upgraded piece by piece, and upgrading insulation doesn't always mean taking into account the airflow physics. So it's complicated because the benefits of insulation bring the complications of changing the physiology of old home construction.
Same with wood floors on a raised home. If you put a vapor barrier between the sub floor and the real wood floor moisture will rot the top of the sub floor. In the old houses the wood floor planks were the only floor, allowing the floor to breath.
I don't think I'll look any further. No offense to Matt... If this isn't the best; it's good enough for me! He's evidently doing this for wood shingle siding so I get it with the watertight aspect. Tom Silva is the definitive expert or Master Craftsman. Not the only one out there; I get that too.
Just amazing! I wish all the contractors and installers were as immaculate and caring as Mr. Tommy; he ALWAYS does it PERFECT! What a gem full of knowledge and wisdom.
Eric recommends using roofing nails. If using 2” roofing nail, every other hole; with 1-3/4” roofing nail, every hole. Tommy says: why roofing nail? Because the head is flatter so it won’t interfere with trim once it’s installed.
This Old House - my drywallers use roofing nails if installing board with pneumatics. Less overdriving, less tearing, better hold, and no buildup. Two thumbs up!
Did they nail in the bottom nailing flange? If they did it is not shown. If they didn’t it is not water nor air tight. Please clarify for us if you can
my uncle who has been a carpenter in the UK for decades reulary watches this old house to learn how to install using the new techniques for timber housing as we have only recently really started to embrace this form of housing and he likes to learn about the ways you insulate and prevent moisture ingress , and of course tarrmy is his favorite !!
I would love to spend a week working for Tommy. I don't care if I am just getting him coffee! as long as I can be around to listen and watch!!!!!! TOH: MAKE THIS HAPPEN! :D
I would love for TOH to do a series on window replacements, especially when the home is not being resided. To many window replacement contractors don’t provide adequate flashing and weather proofing.
The do it on purpose save penny to make thousand in repair I. The future hahahaha because the warranty of tha windows expire .. it's the so call do business
So true. I can't find ANYTHING on this on TH-cam. What I read on GreenBuildingAdvisor in the comments is to treat the outer surface of the old siding as if it's the building paper surface.
I am constantly researching upcoming projects because no matter how long you have been doing this there are always new tips and tricks and sometimes codes that help do the best job you can do . Love this old house , tommy is my hero
Also...FINALLY ATOH has a person designated to respond to comments and also handle social media. Great job guys keeping up with the times and technology!!!!
Tommy says that you always separate materials - because everything expands and contracts differently having a membrane in between the flange and wood allows everything to move in its own way.
Helping a friend through his windows soon, not only is this the most trusted Channel but this is the most informative video I have seen. Much appreciated, thank you for your time
Tom, id like to thank you for all the detail explanation.. best video i have seen, the care with every detail is a proof of the type of professional you are.. the best..
Get those window installation questions ready for Tommy! I’ve got Tom Silva and Marvin’s installation trainer Eric Klein standing by, ready and waiting to hear from *you* -TOH Pro2Pro Editor Chris Ermides
I'm pretty sure when they built my house in 1970 they did the part about putting the window into the hole. I think they probably skipped the other steps
I'm pretty sure these guys already know more then the fools that built the house i'm in now. Nice job guys you are working with the best keep up the good work.
I am a window and door installer in Florida we do things a little different down here love the vycor products most of my openings are masonry lots of tap cons
I though this was funny half way thru. By the end of video, you should either not bothered with cutting a hole for the window or use a pain of glass cause i dare not open the window at all.
i hope at some point science can download knowledge from a persons brain i would hate to see Tom's know how to be gone i have watched this old house for many years and i keep learning from him and the rest of the team would have loved to be an apprentice under his guidance.
Looking to get new windows in a few years. I was considering installing them myself. That consideration is now out the window! I can’t measure straight enough. I will have my contractor do it.
Wow! I watched many videos before this one getting ready to replace old window in my old house. This one is the best - The amount of attention to details and absolute perfection are impressive! My old 1965th house does not have wrap and probably insulation either, but has old siding. And the house settled on one corner and is not square or leveled anywhere. Then what to do in real life with a real old window in a real old house?
May be easier to use the ZIP tape for the sides and top flashing pieces .... ZIP tape is expensive but can eliminate user error for DIY'ers, etc. Great Job Tommy!
I can see Tom screaming inside his head wanting to tell the home owners”forget it, I will do it myself !” 2,000 years later, they are done with the first window! 1 down, 29 more to go!
I think it's hilarious that for like a third of this video the dude's just standing inside looking around, staring out the window watching his wife work.
Ten years later, half the windows might be installed... I was gonna' guess the house was in the middle of a rain forest but it's looks a bit on the chilly side. Still gotta' love these videos! Thanks!
@@ozziesheppard17 in my opinion if you properly use the aluminum drip cap with proper tape on the sides and of coarse the flextape on the sil you should have no problems at all . Call does fail over time if your not using the best. I myself use Lexel. It's the best I have ever found , nothing compares .
Ozzie Sheppard There are some really new rubber STICK ON products like He used on the bottom that high end installers use completely around the opening. I believe the very BEST PRODUCT TO USE is the Liquid Applied PROSOCO. prosoco.com/ MATT RISINGER USING PROSOCO LIQUID APPLIED BARRIER PRODUCTS ON WINDOW INSTALL... th-cam.com/video/ZfjDBzbwQDA/w-d-xo.html
Just a thought, something I found in an old house build circa 1930. When they installed the windows, stick built them if you will. They used copper sheets in a step flashing method. Then they had tar on top of the flashing, on all 4 sides. Of course the sill was canted and had a drip groove on the bottom.. When we opened the wall for the addition, the only damage was from terrormites. The amazing part was it was on the western exposure so that side gets the bulk of the wind and rain..
clmsnfan Matt Risinger uses a 5 degree angle on the bottom sill and he recommends flashing but ESPECIALLY PROSOCO or a couple of the liquid applied products. Then Adhesive/sealants around the whole sill. The window is sealed with sealer/adhesive, except the bottom because you want the water to drain out on the 5 degree cant.
If you think this is overkill, than watch Build Show by Matt Risinger. I applaud these guys for applying scientific principles to make our homes more efficient. Id hire them in a minute to build my house!
For the taper, just tap up the sill framing and install a wedge. Much faster and you don’t need some odd part like a clapboard or risk damaging the tyvek
no doubt this method will seal the windows now but how long will it last? How long will a system of adhesive last? 5-10 years? Before water can seep in? Maybe even less years if there are heavy winds or earthquakes in your area that twists the house? Serious questions.
What is he measuring to. That 26 7/8 inch can guarantee the squareness in the placement the window frame (factory) to the house's wood boundary framed hole?
Tommy can you come out and show me how to install windows at my house in longmeadow? lol. But seriously. IS there a video for triple or Quad pane windows and are there any differences in the install that DIY person should learn?
sean tap How does the square measurements change from 56 7/8” x 57”. Then the homeowner “racks” the window and then it changes to 56 7/8” x 56 7/8”. Seems to me if you rack the window it would add a 1/16” to one measurement and subtract 1/16” from the other. The correct square measurement should have read 56 15/16” both directions. (View sequence @ 18 minutes). But then “Big T” subtly checks plumb (with the Stabila level) to confirm homeowner’s measurements.
Man im gonna say this was a excellent educational video. I enjoyed every movement of involvement from the two guest and host. Silva made me nervous he doesnt cut the blade flashing away from him sometimes. Level, square and plumb was awsome. This video was in unity watching the participation and hammer pounding those galvanized roofing nails. 1 1/4 #8?
Tommy you are the best! Thanks for teaching us a lot! I have build my veranda to your guidelines for everything! Russians are in shock, lol. Can you make a video of how to isolate a roof? And what kind of materials you would use for -50 Celsius? Greetings from Russia and The Netherlands
I'd sure like a list of the materials used instead of all the complaining. I've enjoyed learning the sure fire way to avoid wood rot and drafts. As a homeowner, I want it done for the long term!
the black stuff is called uncured rubber and the best way to avoid buckling is to keep wax paper under it, after positioning and stretching wax paper can be gently removed then should go with roller over it,
Using a Lazer level to level second story windows? Kinda over kill when Tommy already struck a plane line around the house so the windows would be in line . . But different strokes for different folks. Also a Lazer line is very thick and can cause variance if your not on the exact part of the Lazer . A pencil line is thin and more accurate . In my opinion. No disrespect to your method
TELE6220 ok.. it’s just the way I do things , call me thick I’m fine with it . Sorry that struck a nerve with you . Wasn’t my intention . Have a great day
Why no horseshoe shims on the bottom? There is hardly any gap for water to drain without them. Nice to see the sloped sill though! I think it might have been helpful to point out that window openings should have the sill itself slanted, rather than adding a slope on top of it, though that works too.
@@Ham68229 agreed do it your self if you research enough you can do as good or better than the pros but it will take much much longer than they do and not be much cheaper
I think the apprentices were eager to help and got in his way a bit, slowing him down. Maybe they should have watched him do one with an experienced helper prior to filming this segment, so as to know what to expect.
I like everything you do on installation of windows. You only make one mistake and it’s actually pretty big when you consider it pertains to water. The idea of sealing the top and sides are very good. Even leaving the bottom unsealed is a good idea. The problem I have is or starts with were water is (most likely) to penetrate behind the window edge I say it’s at the top. It doesn’t matter if you agree or dis agree because nothing is 100%. How ever let’s say in this case it is the top, so if we follow the direction of the flow it’s going to remain fairly straight until it runs into something that will redirect it, in this case the calking used so far I think we all can agree. My problem is when you applied the caulking you applied it in a wave pattern which is fine for the two sides, however when you applied it at the top you create traps or high and low points. That’s were I have my problem. At the top of the window you should apply it in a mountain shape, well we all know water rolls downhill. Before the window is fitted you should start it on a slight angle with the top as high as you can and the bottom held out. Then slowly lower the bottom of the window into position and at the same time letting comedown into position. You can actually prove this the same way I did. On the show instead of using an actual window you can use a section on glass to see what happens as you make the seal. You won’t end up with water troughs you would in a wave pattern. Try it you see.
Flashing tape is supposed to go over the top window flange, it's not just sealed by caulking... and then z-aluminum flashing over the top of that... then more flashing tape over the z-aluminum flashin after it's been nailed in place. If you need to think about a "mountain shape" for your caulking to keep the water out, you're doing it wrong. :P
Legend has it every window that Tommy installs will give heat in the winter and cool air in the summer.
Legend has it Tommy is still wrapping that window today
😂
😂
Make it nice or do it twice…
Throughout his career Tommy has peeled away a lot of siding in this area only to find rot from years of water damage, which is why he’s a firm believer in this kick-out style flashing. He’s seen it on doors and below windows.
"Throughout his career Tommy blablabla, yada yada yada" Stop! You're silly! Knock knock, who's there? SHHHHHHH, shut it! Look ma I'm on TH-cam, I have a job with This Old House yapping about my idol... Get a hold of yourself! You're annoying. Jesus!
@@Order-in-Chaos so don't watch it.
Order in Chaos
Why are you such a clown???
@@BrianBriCurInTheOC Being a clown is way, way better than being a brown-nose.
@@ABog-mz1hs Bog the commanding authority from behind a keyboard. Bog the keyboard Nazi.
This particular task is a good depiction of how drastically building standards can change. It’s awesome to think how well this will prevent water entry, but at the same, it took 3 sets if hands 30 minutes do to this (1-1/2 hours total just to flash and install the window). If you’re spending this kind of time on this, then adding the time to spray foam, trim the inside, trim the outside, flash the trim, and all of the materials, you’re in to some huge money to do just one window. It’s an ongoing predicament in my head. We spend all this time and money taking things to the Nth degree, yet there are still houses all over New England with 100 year old windows, no modern vapor barriers, and no rot has started in the wall. The old timers had something figured out. Meanwhile, just the other day I pulled out some 30 year old windows at a client’s house and the flexible adhesive flashing membranes were all cracked and flaking anyway. I am inclined to try and convince clients that it’s worth using the best possible installation method, but every time I hand them a bill for a few thousands dollars to install a couple windows I always wonder if all this fancy stuff is going too far.
The predicament seems, to me at least, that the old timers left ample space for houses to "breath". Even if moisture did get into spaces, those space would naturally dry out quickly. This had the obvious downside of being energy inefficient, but oil was cheap back then. Insulating old homes usually means sacrificing airflow. Modern homes can be designed to incorporate good airflow and insulation, but that adds to cost, and old homes aren't being redesigned, they're being upgraded piece by piece, and upgrading insulation doesn't always mean taking into account the airflow physics. So it's complicated because the benefits of insulation bring the complications of changing the physiology of old home construction.
Training always takes longer when done correctly. Once someone gets the rhythm, they'll be able to crank em out. (Pun intended.)
Same with wood floors on a raised home. If you put a vapor barrier between the sub floor and the real wood floor moisture will rot the top of the sub floor. In the old houses the wood floor planks were the only floor, allowing the floor to breath.
Survivor bias, most old houses have rotted and collapsed.
i would assume this would be a 2 person job and there were 3 hands for the sake of training video.
Tommy never messes around when it comes to sealing and flashing windows.
wonder which cost the most, the window or the tape?
@@jerryhubbard4461 Yes. LOL
Best window install video on TH-cam. No unnecessary talk quick to the point and very informative.
MATT RISINGER DOES THE BEST WINDOW VIDEOS ON TH-cam
I don't think I'll look any further. No offense to Matt... If this isn't the best; it's good enough for me! He's evidently doing this for wood shingle siding so I get it with the watertight aspect. Tom Silva is the definitive expert or Master Craftsman. Not the only one out there; I get that too.
Just amazing! I wish all the contractors and installers were as immaculate and caring as Mr. Tommy; he ALWAYS does it PERFECT! What a gem full of knowledge and wisdom.
Eric recommends using roofing nails. If using 2” roofing nail, every other hole; with 1-3/4” roofing nail, every hole. Tommy says: why roofing nail? Because the head is flatter so it won’t interfere with trim once it’s installed.
This Old House - my drywallers use roofing nails if installing board with pneumatics. Less overdriving, less tearing, better hold, and no buildup. Two thumbs up!
Did they nail in the bottom nailing flange? If they did it is not shown. If they didn’t it is not water nor air tight. Please clarify for us if you can
my uncle who has been a carpenter in the UK for decades reulary watches this old house to learn how to install using the new techniques for timber housing as we have only recently really started to embrace this form of housing and he likes to learn about the ways you insulate and prevent moisture ingress , and of course tarrmy is his favorite !!
I would love to spend a week working for Tommy. I don't care if I am just getting him coffee! as long as I can be around to listen and watch!!!!!! TOH: MAKE THIS HAPPEN! :D
I would love for TOH to do a series on window replacements, especially when the home is not being resided. To many window replacement contractors don’t provide adequate flashing and weather proofing.
Gr8 M9ds Agreed!!
The do it on purpose save penny to make thousand in repair I. The future hahahaha because the warranty of tha windows expire .. it's the so call do business
So true. I can't find ANYTHING on this on TH-cam. What I read on GreenBuildingAdvisor in the comments is to treat the outer surface of the old siding as if it's the building paper surface.
Nice job guys. This is why I love American houses. Here in Italy we use lot of cement all over the place. Keep up the good work. Greetings from Italy
I am constantly researching upcoming projects because no matter how long you have been doing this there are always new tips and tricks and sometimes codes that help do the best job you can do . Love this old house , tommy is my hero
Also...FINALLY ATOH has a person designated to respond to comments and also handle social media. Great job guys keeping up with the times and technology!!!!
Tommy says that you always separate materials - because everything expands and contracts differently having a membrane in between the flange and wood allows everything to move in its own way.
There is no construction company on the planet that will take this much care installing windows.
@@interesting7906 isn t that just the sad truth of it!
There is only one Tom Silva!!! Master.
Helping a friend through his windows soon, not only is this the most trusted Channel but this is the most informative video I have seen. Much appreciated, thank you for your time
Yay!!! Finally some new content. I've already watched all their older videos.
Tom, id like to thank you for all the detail explanation.. best video i have seen, the care with every detail is a proof of the type of professional you are.. the best..
Thank you Tommy for the presentation a lot of useful information. I had no idea just how much goes into installing a window properly.
Love this style of videos, Uncut.
Excellent. It is all about taking pains to do every necessary step correctly. Good to learn. Good to know.
I just love this couple. Very willing and ready together! That's how its done!
Get those window installation questions ready for Tommy! I’ve got Tom Silva and Marvin’s installation trainer Eric Klein standing by, ready and waiting to hear from *you* -TOH Pro2Pro Editor Chris Ermides
My question is how soon can you guys come over to install some windows at my house?
This Manis like a magician he comes up with differentthings
That window is so airtight, not even oxygen is getting through. Pretty sure the glass is more porous.
😆
I'm pretty sure when they built my house in 1970 they did the part about putting the window into the hole. I think they probably skipped the other steps
My homes front door is rotted from Exactly this not being done.
@@kristianfairchild7774 your front door is also probably about 1000 years old.
Great job! As a guy living in the hometown of Marvin, I love to see this exposure!
I'm pretty sure these guys already know more then the fools that built the house i'm in now. Nice job guys you are working with the best keep up the good work.
oh hell yeah i would kill to get this crew to fix my old house up because the same fools that built your house built mine and it sucks man
Same fools got me too
One follow up I was living in Boston when Norm and Bob did the first show, some folks on your show were not born yet.
I am a window and door installer in Florida we do things a little different down here love the vycor products most of my openings are masonry lots of tap cons
Oh man, if everyone only got a teacher like that to start us out.
Ladies & gentlemen, that is how you build a submarine.
Lol
:D
I though this was funny half way thru. By the end of video, you should either not bothered with cutting a hole for the window or use a pain of glass cause i dare not open the window at all.
Tommy and Eric like to have at least 1/2” around the window for shimming and insulation
This Old House me too
I agree with you Greg Purdy my house built in the 60s they just crammed the windows in the hole.
i hope at some point science can download knowledge from a persons brain i would hate to see Tom's know how to be gone i have watched this old house for many years and i keep learning from him and the rest of the team would have loved to be an apprentice under his guidance.
Looking to get new windows in a few years. I was considering installing them myself. That consideration is now out the window! I can’t measure straight enough. I will have my contractor do it.
Tommy has alot of patience.
1:24 Tommy is using roofing nails here to nail in the clapboard to the sill
Why does he still use a clapboard? I work in window manufacturing. Our sills slope to the outside. Is that not commonplace for other manufacturers?
Wow! I watched many videos before this one getting ready to replace old window in my old house. This one is the best - The amount of attention to details and absolute perfection are impressive! My old 1965th house does not have wrap and probably insulation either, but has old siding. And the house settled on one corner and is not square or leveled anywhere. Then what to do in real life with a real old window in a real old house?
May be easier to use the ZIP tape for the sides and top flashing pieces .... ZIP tape is expensive but can eliminate user error for DIY'ers, etc. Great Job Tommy!
Just did my first window install. Thanks to you guys at This Old House!👍
My windows say to cut house wrap flush with opening. Thoughts?
Great demonstration by Tommy, would love to have him give me some tips for my home.
Being from the UK, it's crazy to me to see an external wall being constructed from OSB.
Osb is made for exterior now
Well I'll take the old windows any day of the week with a little draft, thats Beer im talking about !!! Tommy one hell of a carpenter ...
I can see Tom screaming inside his head wanting to tell the home owners”forget it, I will do it myself !” 2,000 years later, they are done with the first window! 1 down, 29 more to go!
Give that women props driving nails with tommy ! I would have been so nervous I would miss the nail! A dream come true but nervous for sure
Sorry for the typo! Hope I didn’t ruin your day.
I think it's hilarious that for like a third of this video the dude's just standing inside looking around, staring out the window watching his wife work.
How do you know is his wife?
Lol
Can someone explain to me why we need to check the square for the window? Should all the windows be manufactured square?
They have some amount of flex to the overall shape. They aren't made of tank steel.
Ten years later, half the windows might be installed... I was gonna' guess the house was in the middle of a rain forest but it's looks a bit on the chilly side. Still gotta' love these videos! Thanks!
Rule 1: You can never have too much flashing around those windows.
@@ozziesheppard17 in my opinion if you properly use the aluminum drip cap with proper tape on the sides and of coarse the flextape on the sil you should have no problems at all . Call does fail over time if your not using the best. I myself use Lexel. It's the best I have ever found , nothing compares .
Ozzie Sheppard
There are some really new rubber STICK ON products like He used on the bottom that high end installers use completely around the opening.
I believe the very BEST PRODUCT TO USE is the Liquid Applied PROSOCO.
prosoco.com/
MATT RISINGER USING PROSOCO LIQUID APPLIED BARRIER PRODUCTS ON WINDOW INSTALL...
th-cam.com/video/ZfjDBzbwQDA/w-d-xo.html
Just a thought, something I found in an old house build circa 1930. When they installed the windows, stick built them if you will. They used copper sheets in a step flashing method. Then they had tar on top of the flashing, on all 4 sides. Of course the sill was canted and had a drip groove on the bottom.. When we opened the wall for the addition, the only damage was from terrormites. The amazing part was it was on the western exposure so that side gets the bulk of the wind and rain..
clmsnfan
Matt Risinger uses a 5 degree angle on the bottom sill and he recommends flashing but ESPECIALLY PROSOCO or a couple of the liquid applied products. Then Adhesive/sealants around the whole sill. The window is sealed with sealer/adhesive, except the bottom because you want the water to drain out on the 5 degree cant.
Ozzie Sheppard
See last Friday's "the build show" by Risinger, he discussed phony Tyvec adverts and discusses weather barriers in framed walls.
Can you show us the proper area to measure for a new window? Also, when measuring I will assume this applies for a sliding Marvin patio door as well?
That sweet accent from Massachusetts!
Go Patriots!
If you think this is overkill, than watch Build Show by Matt Risinger. I applaud these guys for applying scientific principles to make our homes more efficient. Id hire them in a minute to build my house!
Nice job, which every window installers out there care this much.
The guy on the inside was smart. He was nice and warm
don't you just love paper backed adhesive strips, Thanks Tom Nice job
Any links to the materials used?
Yeah, just use ALL of what they got apparently lol!
For the taper, just tap up the sill framing and install a wedge. Much faster and you don’t need some odd part like a clapboard or risk damaging the tyvek
"Clapboard", thank you! I replayed it several times and couldn't tell what he was saying.
no doubt this method will seal the windows now but how long will it last? How long will a system of adhesive last? 5-10 years? Before water can seep in? Maybe even less years if there are heavy winds or earthquakes in your area that twists the house? Serious questions.
Tommy nailed it again
I wonder what would happen if you had to replace a window like that. Would you have to take the siding off and re-tape and re-flash?
this man is a genius
You are the best This Old House
What is he measuring to. That 26 7/8 inch can guarantee the squareness in the placement the window frame (factory) to the house's wood boundary framed hole?
Great video but what about the factory supplied drip thing over the top of the window?
Price of window=$500,price of caulking and flashing=$150,tommy teaching=priceless
That’s some expensive caulk and rubber
28:03 When Mama is baking an apple pie and she tells you to go outside until it's ready
Lol
🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
The quality of the install is truly great. You won't get this caliber of work from any low end contractor though. Buyer beware.
Isn't air tight water tight too?
The more of these I watch the more I want to see a bloopers real
Tommy is legendary. I love it when class is in session.
My daughter needs new windows. Thanks for posting this.😁
Tommy can you come out and show me how to install windows at my house in longmeadow? lol. But seriously. IS there a video for triple or Quad pane windows and are there any differences in the install that DIY person should learn?
Am I correct that no drip cap was installed? Is that needed?
Great job, Tommy. Forgot your roller for the adhesive flashing 😂😂😂
If its plumb and level, it had better already be square or you're going to be in trouble.
Hell yeah ..basic mathematics
sean tap How does the square measurements change from 56 7/8” x 57”. Then the homeowner “racks” the window and then it changes to 56 7/8” x 56 7/8”. Seems to me if you rack the window it would add a 1/16” to one measurement and subtract 1/16” from the other. The correct square measurement should have read 56 15/16” both directions. (View sequence @ 18 minutes). But then “Big T” subtly checks plumb (with the Stabila level) to confirm homeowner’s measurements.
Man im gonna say this was a excellent educational video. I enjoyed every movement of involvement from the two guest and host. Silva made me nervous he doesnt cut the blade flashing away from him sometimes. Level, square and plumb was awsome. This video was in unity watching the participation and hammer pounding those galvanized roofing nails. 1 1/4 #8?
Thank you for this feedback! Tommy is using 2" roofing nails here. -- TOH Pro2Pro Editor Chris Ermides
Why did they wrap the vapor barrier vertical and not horizontal?? Also doesn't all this glued stuff come apart after a couple of years?
Would this be the same process for basement wasn't windows?
Tommy you are the best! Thanks for teaching us a lot! I have build my veranda to your guidelines for everything! Russians are in shock, lol.
Can you make a video of how to isolate a roof? And what kind of materials you would use for -50 Celsius?
Greetings from Russia and The Netherlands
This guy is amazing I just stick it the side of the window but on the window gives a way better seal
How do you install windows and provide weather protection but on a brick home?
Excellent job that’s the way it should be
How can you do the kick out style in a building with metal siding? In other words it will not have lap siding.
I'd sure like a list of the materials used instead of all the complaining.
I've enjoyed learning the sure fire way to avoid wood rot and drafts.
As a homeowner, I want it done for the long term!
the black stuff is called uncured rubber and the best way to avoid buckling is to keep wax paper under it, after positioning and stretching wax paper can be gently removed then should go with roller over it,
Using a PLS or DeWalt laser helps much better than a 4' level, less messy too. Would you think about it?
Using a Lazer level to level second story windows? Kinda over kill when Tommy already struck a plane line around the house so the windows would be in line . . But different strokes for different folks. Also a Lazer line is very thick and can cause variance if your not on the exact part of the Lazer . A pencil line is thin and more accurate . In my opinion. No disrespect to your method
TELE6220 ok.. it’s just the way I do things , call me thick I’m fine with it . Sorry that struck a nerve with you . Wasn’t my intention . Have a great day
Hey love your work keep it up love seeing you guys helping people out.👍👍
Great teacher!
Why no horseshoe shims on the bottom? There is hardly any gap for water to drain without them. Nice to see the sloped sill though! I think it might have been helpful to point out that window openings should have the sill itself slanted, rather than adding a slope on top of it, though that works too.
now if only every window installer did it the proper way instead of cutting corners to save time/money that'd be great
As long as you want to pay the price it costs to put a window in like that ,imagine putting in 30 like that it would cost more than the house.
@@roccoconte2960 or learn and do it yourself? Tom is probably the best in the field.
@@Ham68229 agreed do it your self if you research enough you can do as good or better than the pros but it will take much much longer than they do and not be much cheaper
@@roccoconte2960 >THIS< Everyone wants this, but hardly anyone wants to pay the price.
@@ajs96350 How true ,everyone expects this kind of job but when told how much it costs its a different story.
The audio in this video is a lot quieter than all other videos
The bird 🐦 noises were relaxing in this video 🤣
Watching you handle that vycor really hurt my eyes I can only imagine how smoothly that would have gone on on a nice hot day
You're right. Truly painful, but that is the price the master must pay when teaching the "grasshopper."
As a sign and vinyl installer that made me cringe. I wrap vehicles and they have to be perfect. Cant wait to try it on my house.
@@jawneelogik5744 i think the master started to lose some skills.. he made it look sooo difficult..
I think the apprentices were eager to help and got in his way a bit, slowing him down. Maybe they should have watched him do one with an experienced helper prior to filming this segment, so as to know what to expect.
Tommy Overkill did a nice job. I would try to do the same on my home. Hopefully the window itself does not leak. or left open in a rainstorm
I like everything you do on installation of windows. You only make one mistake and it’s actually pretty big when you consider it pertains to water. The idea of sealing the top and sides are very good. Even leaving the bottom unsealed is a good idea. The problem I have is or starts with were water is (most likely) to penetrate behind the window edge I say it’s at the top. It doesn’t matter if you agree or dis agree because nothing is 100%. How ever let’s say in this case it is the top, so if we follow the direction of the flow it’s going to remain fairly straight until it runs into something that will redirect it, in this case the calking used so far I think we all can agree. My problem is when you applied the caulking you applied it in a wave pattern which is fine for the two sides, however when you applied it at the top you create traps or high and low points. That’s were I have my problem. At the top of the window you should apply it in a mountain shape, well we all know water rolls downhill. Before the window is fitted you should start it on a slight angle with the top as high as you can and the bottom held out. Then slowly lower the bottom of the window into position and at the same time letting comedown into position. You can actually prove this the same way I did. On the show instead of using an actual window you can use a section on glass to see what happens as you make the seal. You won’t end up with water troughs you would in a wave pattern. Try it you see.
Flashing tape is supposed to go over the top window flange, it's not just sealed by caulking... and then z-aluminum flashing over the top of that... then more flashing tape over the z-aluminum flashin after it's been nailed in place. If you need to think about a "mountain shape" for your caulking to keep the water out, you're doing it wrong. :P
How many people does it take to screw in one light bulb?