How to Repair a Rust Hole with Fiberglass - No Welding!
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 12 พ.ย. 2020
- Don't have a welder? No problem. This video explains in detail how to use fiberglass cloth for automobile rust repairs. An easy fix for rust holes and no welding is required!
Tools and Materials:
Large Grinder/Sander: Sioux 5290 7" Vertical Sander w/ 36 or 40 grit fiber resin disc
Sand blaster: Speed Blaster - Gravity Feed Media Blaster
Sand: www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/pro...
Fiberglass Cloth: Bondo brand fiberglass cloth #2
Resin: Bondo Fiberglass Resin
Green filler: Bondo Glass
Regular filler: autobodymaster.com/product_lis...
DA sander: www.amazon.com/Professional-R...
Primer: Autobody Master lacquer primer from local Auto Value parts store - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
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A nice repair. My father and I ran an autobody repair business when I was growing up. It was in Nova Scotia and rust repairs were a large part of our business. I used fibreglass products to repair rust holes on a regular basis. In general, the fibreglass approach lasted much longer than cutting out rusted areas and patching with sheet metal. The approach that you used doesn't burn off the paint and coatings on the back side of the repair area which will will minimize rusting later on. Fibreglass is excellent in that it is not affected by salt or moisture. Thank you for the video.
You're welcome Harold - thanks for the support and your input - have a good weekend :)
can i ask -- why didnt cut and weld approach work for you? was it because of introducing a new patch and possible rust formations from the welds?
You just answered your own question
@@crazymango-6977 yeh rust will come back ALWAYS if using regular steel even if you do everything right. only way it wont is if you use zintec steel , stainless filler , and rust convert the back of the repair (inside the body) then put a rust inhibiting primer on and put an underseal product containing oil behind there too. seems like a lot of effort for throw away cars these days
@@SamFBM thanks for that little bit of key info. You just made up my mind on choosing between sheet metal and fiberglass for my truck's rusted out wheel opening. I thought epoxy primer and sealer was enough.-but I'm also quite new to this. So I'll take any knowledge I can get.
You have no idea how many times I reference your body shop videos, exspecially this one. Thank You!
You're welcome - thanks for the support Mark. Enjoy the weekend my friend 😊
Just ran across this channel. I have a 2004 Audi, and a 2003 Durango. Both have mid range millage and minor rust from Minnesota winters. It's been years since I've done any rust repair, but I still have some Bondo Hair and fiber glass, & tools, left. I've always loved patching up all my old cars since I took a body shop class in H.S. when I was 15. So I think I'll warm up the garage and get my 80 yr. old ass out there tomorrow and have some fun! Thanks for the great video!
Jerry, I am obsessed with your videos. I learn a new technique or two everytime you are so easy to follow that gives me plenty of time to take a note or two. Thanks again.
I appreciate that Mike - makes my day. I'll hopefully keep uploading good info for you my friend. You're welcome :)
Pretty sweet video from a very experienced, veteran professional. Much success to Lakeside Autobody!
Thanks Rob, I appreciate your support. Have a good weekend :)
Thanks for showing. I've got some rust spots around the back of a truck cab I want to try this on.
Excellent repair Bud!! I fixed my 57 Chevy quarter panel just like that back in 1975, it's still holding up 45 years later!!☺
Excellent! That's great to hear. This method is all my dad ever used for rust repair - I think it was very common in the late 60's, 70's and 80's
@805ROADKING I also did my 57 with this method..however it was in 1979... I also still have mine!
@@LakesideAutobody Hello! Your videos just showed up in my feed & I am SOO excited.. I have loved cars since I bought my 57 Chevy when 13. ( I STILL have it! ) I like how you explain everything, as well as the old school approach with some new applications and products. Life has went full circle and now again I have time (AND MONEY) to enjoy my vehicles. My 93 Chevy truck has a lot of same areas of repair this 91 does..I am curious as to what brand tape you use? Masking seems to stick more than I remember back then..Again I appreciate the calm walk throughs of every details.. No over the top, loud mouth, over production theatrics. Definitely be back!
@@daisyorpington784 Thanks so much for the kind words Daisy - glad you like the channel. I use 3M Automotive Refinish Masking Tape 388N. Feel free to ask ?s - I get to them 1-2 times/day - Jerry
It's such a shame people don't learn how to tin with a propane torch, and fill with lead, and copper stranded wire as a matrix, such a simple procedure. And is truly permanent and surfaced with JB WELD. Average person doesn't know the difference between polyester, thixotropic or epoxy resins. Your video was very informative, I've done it your way, and it seems to be a 50/50 gamble, it usually does look good but you'll see jobs where It shrinks, cracks or crazes. Thanks for sharing "Lead- Leads"👍
With your assistance I'm repairing my Ford E 250 2006.
I live in New York and the snow caused serious damaged on the bottom of it.
I've been learning with your video.
THANK YOU SO MUCH.
You're welcome - glad the videos help out. Feel free to ask questions - I get to them 1-2 times a day :)
I just dip my already cut piece of cloth in the resin then apply. I also after about a week after job is complete I get up behind the patch and soak with oil. Helps so it takes along while for rust to come back. I did my ranger in same spot really similar over a year ago and still hasn't bubbled yet! Great video
Thanks - great to hear. Have a good weekend :)
I mentioned this on another one of your videos but I used this technique on the rocker panel of my son's 2007 Yaris. It results in a very very durable repair. Four years later and still solid.
Thanks for your input Robb - that's really good to hear. If you can get another 4 or more years of driving a respectable looking car while being proud of being able to do the repairs - that's what it's all about :)
@@LakesideAutobody I sourced it for him over 4 years ago, it was a one owner Yaris, 95,000 miles. Paid $4000. Now has over 132,000. He has bought a bigger car, so just sold his Yaris for $4500! Crazy what's going on with used car prices!
@@robbflynn4325 Yes it is. Dealerships around me will flat out buy your car from you for a pretty good price - you don't even have to buy anything. They are short on cars - heck Ford doesn't even make cars anymore except for Mustang - weird :)
@@LakesideAutobody We have a 2019 Forester, we bought it new in Nov 2018. Recently took it into the dealership for a recall item to be fixed. Salesman came out and spoke to my wife and gave her a sheet of paper with $20,000 offer for it there and then. We did not pay much more than that for it when new, and it now has over 60,000 miles, and remember this is a stealership who aren't exactly renowned at paying top dollar for cars!
@@robbflynn4325 That's nuts - I don't get it - things are really crazy since Covid - something sort of small like that can literally throw everything off balance and wreak havoc on the economy.
Beautiful video genius of a repair a joy to watch a true craftsman at work loved it mate bless you .
Bless you too my friend and thanks so much for the kind words - have a good week 🛠
I always learn new tricks and tips from your videos! I don't know why bondo has a bad wrap. I've never understood that way of thinking. It works great!
It's used every day in every body shop and dealership across the nation and you'd never know it because they use it correctly. Heck yeah it works great.
This is not Bondo plastic filler , this is fiberglass cloth soaked in fiberglass resin which is waterproof ,topped with fiberglass filler ( Bondo glass ) .Bondo plastic filler is not waterproof , it's only good for a cosmetic repair .
If you just used rust reformer before filling fiber glass then it would be perfect. Because it stops the rust
Would really like to see you do the finishing red paint and clear coat blending. Very good video!
I will have it soon - have a good weekend :)
Great video can't wait to get to work on my '59 Studebaker!
I could watch these videos all day. I've always wanted to be a welder and body repair man. Another great video. Thank you.
You're welcome Tom - Thanks for the support - enjoy the weekend :)
@@LakesideAutobody Thank you. You have a great weekend too. 👍
You do great practical work and your passion is still there !! ❤️👍🏻
Thanks Paul. I appreciate your kind words - have a great weekend :)
@@LakesideAutobody means a lot that you Reoly !!! …., I am
Good and you remind me in good 👍🏻 lol….
@@lawncuttingplusdelta 👍😊✌
Wow! Really nice job. Thank you for the tutorial!
You're welcome RA - have a great weekend :)
Jerry, Your video's are superbly executed, with your easy to follow directions coupled with a delightful personalty. You have inspired me to repair the old vehicles in my driveway rusting away over the years. I only wish it was springtime as we are headed toward the winter, and the work will have to wait. thank you, and all the best from New Rochelle N.Y.
I really appreciate that Stewart - makes my day. My kid was just in Dunkirk, Buffalo, and Albany NY - he liked it. I'm glad the videos inspire you and if you ever have ?s just ask. Thanks for the support and you're welcome too :)
@@LakesideAutobody Not only `do you produce an informative tutorial; you also reply promptly. What else could a student of the you tube classroom ask for. My gratitude sent back to you!!
@@LakesideAutobody Thank you for the timely reply, and I am sure you inspired countless others as well as me in the youtube classroom. Looking forward to spring time, and for now only the best for you Jerry and family.
@@stewartbruce8902 You're welcome Stewart - I'm glad you like the videos. The best to you and your family too - Happy Thanksgiving my friend - Jerry
Hi Jerry, is your shop in Lakeside California? Near San Diego.
Great work, Great video angle, Great teacher! Thank you.
You're very welcome Monsterrello - have a good week :)
Bro I appreciate your channel! Just picked up a ‘94 E350 Club Wagon with a high top and your channel is going to be a game changer for me. It’s got the 7.5L engine but it’s got some rust on it!
I love big old vans like that - I had a 1986 Dodge B250 high top conversion van - came with a factory CB!, power bed, rear air - just awesome to travel in :) Ask ?s if you need - glad you like the channel :)
Thanks for sharing. I like the detailed step by step approach you show.
You're welcome - thanks for the support. Have a good week :)
This is a great method for people who can't get patch panels, and don't have the skills or money for press brakes, English wheels, MIG welders, etc. In other words, people like me. Thank you!
You're welcome - that's exactly why I uploaded it :)
Thanks for posting this. Again, HIGHLY educational for me. I can tell you that had I not watched this, I was headed for a major mistake with the fiberglass netting/resin. Thanks also for telling us specifically what supplies you're working with. ,👍
You're welcome Charles. This was actually taught in trade schools and used in body shops for some years before MIG welders - like maybe 60's-70's :)
You sir are awesome, thank you so much, nice concise videos with all of thr details we need and non of the fluff.
I appreciate that Jake - thanks for the kind words. Enjoy the rest of the week my friend :)
Perfect explanation and perfect video for what I need thanks for sharing.
You're welcome Andy :)
First off, you provide great content!
I am knee deep in restoring my jeep to give to me son. Frame, floors and ALL driveline, suspension and steering has been rebuilt or replaced. I have just started laying into the body work and am having serious issues with all types of fillers due to heat and humidity. Polyester glaze sets up too fast wasting silly amounts of money. Metal 2 metal putty was doing the same so cut the harder in half and it never set. With sadness and frustration I spent 5 hours removing it all. I was forced to by original bondo to continue tomorrow but am worried about its durability and longevity. Wish things went as easy in diy as they do in the videos lol
Don't bother with expensive fillers or fancy brands. Get yourself a gallon of basic filler, right around 25-30 bucks. Use less hardener and you'll be just fine. Start by using half of what you've been using and if it still hardens too fast cut it in half again. Please let me know how it goes for you. Feel free to ask as many ?s as you need - I get to them 1-2 times a day. I'm doing a video on filler selection this month so it should help you out a bit :)
That was the most correct way I have seen yet. Specially when you hit them with the cheese grater. That was old school and the gun. Good work!!
Thanks for the support Elvin - I appreciate your comment :)
actually, the most correct way is to buy a fender.. lipstick on a pig only looks so good for sooo long...
@@Tattoodtoolow th-cam.com/video/gIS1Tbv7Kvw/w-d-xo.html
Wow, that brings back memories.
Excellent repair! I used to cut and weld patches because it was the old school way. Now this method is all I use. It’s a better quality repair for daily driver vehicles.
Steel and fiberglass expand and contract at different rates. Nuff said.
@@MrSticks9999 True, but I've been doing it this way for the past 40 years and it works great in areas like this for a daily driver car.
@@USCG.Brennan I would say . . if you just want to cover the rust up cheaply, there's still a better way. At the base of this, it's all about adhesion. You cannot get away with that when using fiberglass. Its going to release. So if there is a better source for adhesion, the repair will last longer.
@@MrSticks9999 If you prepare the area correctly (thoroughly cleaned and scuffed) the fiberglass will stick and hold. I've never had it come loose before or if it did, it took years.
However I will say that if you're thinking of fiberglassing a non metal hood scoop on a metal hood (for instance) then yes, they expand and contract at a different rate and WILL separate.
Just saying, based on my years of panel repair.
Restoration should be removed !!(?)
thank you for all your videos, this is much better and more practical than all those restoration youtubers.
You're welcome - I appreciate your comment :)
Great video. Really helped. Thank you Jerry.
Glad it helped - thanks for watching David :)
Thank you for sharing your knowledge! I know it's time consuming making these videos! Thank you!
Glad you like them - it does take up my time but I make a little extra cash and it helps some folks out so I guess it's my niche.
Looking good for DIY.
Smart Idea, quick fix thanks for sharing the video 😊
You're welcome AR.
Dam this dude makes it look so easy. I just want to go do it for fun. Great video very inspiring.
Thanks Chance - have a good week :)
You can tell he’s a pro. Repair looks perfect and technique is very efficient and spot on
Thank you so much for sharing this.
You're welcome - have a good weekend:)
Great video as always Jerry you have the best bodywork videos on TH-cam hands down!
Thanks - I appreciate that coming from you - your jobs always look real straight. I bought the Spectrum spray gun from HF because of your video - it hasn't come in the mail yet though. Black Widow is on sale for 149 :) Have a great weekend - hopefully the woeful Lions do better against Washington.
@@LakesideAutobody Let me know your thoughts on the spectrum and yes hopefully the Lions do well...enjoy your weekend Jerry!
Your are truly an artisan!
Thanks JD and thanks for watching :)
Thanks for another great video
You're welcome.
love this guy
Looks like a good way to fix it.
Thanks. That was very clear. It’s gonna help me with some repairs to my 22 year old LandCruiser. 👍
I’d love to get more info about putting in a drain hole. I live in Utah and we deal with a lot of salty water, snow and ice here. Thanks.
@@mmpatriot2170 The bigger the hole the better on the back side at the bottom of the panel. It doesn't really matter if water gets in there as it gets in there anyway - it has to GET OUT. Something big enough so you can clean it out or blow air in there to make sure it's clean - no leaves, needles, mud, etc. Has to stay dry and clean.
I want to say thank you your video are very informative to a diy once again thanks
You're welcome - thanks for watching David :)
Some day I'm definitely gonna try this!
Let me know how it goes for you :)
Thanks for this! My Bondo Glass did not look green after adding the red hardner, but it seemed to go on and harden well
That's OK - it probably looked a bit brown. I used blue hardener which made it blue/green and you used red hardener which made it look brown. The color of the hardener doesn't make any difference. Some companies have blue, red, yellow, etc. Jerry
You should try soaking the fiberglass cloth on a flat work surface first then pick it up and place it on the damaged area. I think you will find it will go much faster and easier. You still have to work it into the surface but now your cloth is loaded with resin and you're not having to try to soak it upside down. Gravity is your friend. :-)
Hey man - I had blinders on! Good idea. That would work real well - thanks for the input :)
That's the way we do it on boat repairs soak the patches then work it in make sure you have no air bubbles.
Thank you for making this great, easy to follow, instructional video.
I'm fairly certain that untolds of folks will find this video very helpful, when they have a go at using fibreglass to repair stuff.
I'm a '57 model, and I'm always learning stuff, especially from videos like this one.
My Late father told me; (after I'd made a real mess of a job).
I thought that he was going to call me a fool.
But instead, he said.
The only folks tat never make mistakes are those that never do anything.
That last line there is so very true. The only way to stay completely safe is never leave the house :)
This is Art 👍
Good job brother,it will last for few years ,thanks for the video, excellent,appreciate it 👍✌️
You're welcome Hector - you're right - here it is after a year of 2 - th-cam.com/video/t1WclT_GMvk/w-d-xo.html Have a great weekend 🏈
Nice work would like to see you do rocker panels cab corners and Fender rust in the same manner that video would be good
Great job. You have inspired me to go do it
Excellent - ask ?s if you need as you go :)
Nice job. I like your sandblaster.
Thanks Jan - have a good weekend :)
Very nice work! It helped a lot. Getting started on my vehicle tomorrow.
Cool - let me know if you have any questions. Try to make sure the panel is clean inside and can drain and dry out. It will last quite long if it can.
@@LakesideAutobody Awesome! Thanks for responding.
Jerry, your videos are top notch! Love the way you walk through your procedures. Clear and easy to follow along. I don't have air tools.. but I do have the electric 7" HF polisher/sander (one of your top ten tools from HF) as well as the hand tools you use (cheese grater, hand block and medium length long board). What would you recommend in terms of which sandpaper grits I should keep on hand? Both for the circular type and hand block, long board?
I appreciate that Bob - glad you like the videos. All you really need is 36 grit, 120 grit, 220 grit and 400 - that's it Those grits can do everything in the shop. I will do a sand paper guide video soon to address that topic :)
Amazing repair !
Thanks Antonio - have a good week :)
@@LakesideAutobody Thank you , You Do The Same sir.
Nice work
Very nice. And the repair was in a very convenient, accessible spot, too!
I used the other type of fiberglass (free-strand?) the first time and it is HORRID! The stuff gets EVERYWHERE! lol
Thanks for all of your videos. :)
You're welcome - yes very frustrating when the strands are sticking everywhere. Have a good weekend :)
Fibreglass matting is pretty horrible to use, certainly an aqquired skill.
Proper term for "free-strand" is "chopped strand mat" (from an old Fiberglas R&D Tech.)
I feel your pain! it was 95°f about 92% humidity. Had to do a park and go. That fiber glass matt is clutch!
my truck in the picture had the same spot on the fender rusted out but much worse. so i made a metal repair panel and glued it in with short strand fiberglass .
it has been over 7 years since i fixed it and painted the truck and not one bubble . i have been using the same kind of 7 inch cp grinder since around 1973.
Thanks for the input 60Chevy :)
Really good informative stuff! Keep it up
Thanks Asher - thanks for watching 👍😊
Good job dude. I like clean work. You could even fill the craters with cat hair or short strand fiberglass. We always use fiberglass for many of our crumpled areas that are so bad we just can’t dolly the metal back. Customers prefer it over replacing expensive body parts! Like quarters and fenders. Doing Fiberglass repair is like having a proven to work cheat sheet! What sits next to our gallon of filler on our work carts? A gallon of dyno glass!
Thanks Rick - that truck is in my garage right now getting a lower quarter patch panel. That fender still looks fine - I actually surprised 'cause the guy drives it year round on salty winter roads and it sits outside.
Good work, can you do this on the area above the wheel or was that to big of an area for fiberglass? Thank you
That can be done. I'll keep my eyes open for a fender that needs it and make the video. Thanks for the suggestion :)
Nice work! Would be interesting to see how it holds now.
I'll do a follow up video soon as this guy is in the neighborhood :)
i would be willing to bet it would out last the original metal. my opinion only..help me out on this one. lol.
Man oh man that’s a blast from the past, when I was young I had many rust buckets and that was my no.1 way of fixing them. Now in my older years still use that method once in awhile but now been using West system epoxy now, does take longer to cure. Far less brittle than fiberglass resin and if you can get to the back side and coat it with epoxy it encapsulates the rust better. Good stuff buddy I just subbed to your Channel.
Thanks - that's good to hear. Here's one you might like too:th-cam.com/video/wRl1QfkrBeY/w-d-xo.html - Glad you subscribed :)
Yup!
Epoxy is adhesive, polyester is just a filler.
West System will hold like crazy to clean metal.
@@LakesideAutobody Here's another thumbs up for West System. I bought it a couple years ago when I had to replace the floor of my boat. VERY easy to work with. A gallon can of resin and a quart can of hardener, each with their own pump. The pumps are like what you'd find on orange hand cleaner, but they are metered to match the system. So, 3 pumps from the resin and 3 from the hardener - no guessing - mix it up and go. Store it away with the pumps in the cans. Keeps the contents clean and ready for next time. Thanks for another great video Jerry!
been using west system for over 20 years on wood and metal. Works Great!
@@davesilvia9711 I've been using it for 40 years now, from building boats and everything else. Good stuff
Thanks that was really helpful. I subbed straight away. Cheers.
You're welcome - thanks for the support - have a good week :)
Since you had holes large enough in panel would it be good ideal to spray some ospho or some sort of rust ecapsulator behind the panel. Surly its still has some rust and only will get worse with time from inside out???
True but the main reason it rusted is because of trapped leaves, needles, debris, that get soaked w/ salt water. Just eliminating that will stop the rust - really. Lean a sheet of thin sheet metal up against a fence and it'll be there for the rest of you life because it can drain and dry. You're right too about sealing the back - if you can do that, it would last even longer. Here's a vid on how I prevent rust after the repair: th-cam.com/video/8XaZBy7GC7A/w-d-xo.html - have a good weekend :)
Lol not here in SW Louisiana you put a sheet of unprotected metal against a fence and it will be rusted in a week. Lol.
Keep up the great vids I watch and learn something each time I watch. Thx
@@LakesideAutobody Right Nanz from NC
Great Video He Knows What He Is Doing
Thanks for the support Glenn :)
Enjoyed your video vary much 👍
Glad to hear it - thanks for watching RW :)
Thank's very helpfull.Lot's to learn
👍
Great teacher.
I appreciate the kind words - have a good weekend :)
Thanks for your channel
You're welcome Doug - I appreciate that. Thanks for watching :)
Good job
Looks very clean! Great video
Thanks RO - have a good week :)
@@LakesideAutobody wasn’t there some fiberglass putty called “Kittens claw” or something that had to do with cats….that worked well to do large unsupported spots
@@XroorX Everocat Kitty Hair ?
@@LakesideAutobody thanks! I’m old school and thanks for your help!
@@XroorX You're welcome :)
Brilliant!
👍😊
Thanks. I learnt a lot from this.
You're welcome Sailor :)
Nice job, I was looking for an alternative to welding because I'm restoring our horse trailer and there's just so much rust I'll be there for the next 20 years chasing it all down, thankfully it's all cosmetic and the structural parts are all good still. Going to have a look at that Bondo Glass you used, thanks for sharing.
Fiberglass reinforced filler works great for projects like that too - th-cam.com/video/rPTaeH056ng/w-d-xo.html - the stuff is water proof :)
@@LakesideAutobody awesome, my biggest thing to deal with is the fact my horse weighs 1 ton by himself which means the trailer has to be reinforced all over because well.... he weighs 1 ton lol
I've used Bondo with chopped glass to repair a large rust hole in a hood at the front lip. The local auto body shop wanted $2k to replace the entire hood. They claimed that anything other than replacement would fail "in a year". My repair hasn't failed, eight years later. Still driving the car. Even funnier, or more disappointing, the hole in the hood was the result of a failed professional repair about six years earlier that rusted away under their filler, which was in turn under one of those clear plastic hood protection films. My driveway repair has lasted longer and looks fine (for an old well used car). It's barely noticeable unless you lift the hood and examine closely.
Great story Jim - it all depends on how it was done - can the panel drain, stay dry, etc. Lots of factors. Thanks for you input and support 👍
Fantastic video I'm going to try this! Only thing I'm wondering is why you didn't use a rust inhibitor before the rest of the process
Rust inhibitor would help along with making sure the fender can drain and that you coat the back if possible or squirt some used motor oil inside after the paint has been applied.
Good stuff Jerry, thanks for teaching!! 👍👍👍
You're welcome:)
Enjoying your videos. If the rust is originating on the underside of the panel, shouldn't there be some kind of rust neutralizer & coating to protect it going forward?
You can use anything that you think will help. Here's what I find works the best after trying tons of different things - th-cam.com/video/8XaZBy7GC7A/w-d-xo.html
Naval jelly or Maradic acid love the stuff
Thats a great lesson. Thx. What would happen if you only used the reinforced filler without fibreglass layers?
That can work real well too - if there's not a big hole. Here's an example of what you are talking about: th-cam.com/video/rPTaeH056ng/w-d-xo.html
@@LakesideAutobody thats great! Thx
Thanks for sharing
You're welcome - thanks for watching. Merry Christmas 🎄❄🎄
Question: Can you drill a hole through this type of repair? I’ve got some rocker panels that are rusted pretty bad around where the running boards attach. Or would it be better to just cut the holes out of the fabric before applying the resin?
Thanks brother!
Great job!
Thanks :)
Excellent tips,thanks,I am encouraged to extend a similar lawn mower deck fibre repair,which worked very well,full ongoing adhesion despite heavy operational vibration,to my car,about which I have been hesitant till now. For sea salt, try coastal Cornwall,and for arch rust, try my 21yr old Vauxhall Astra,its only body issue. Good comment above about non burning retaining rhe inner paint and coating as it reduces further rust too.
Thanks for your input Andy - have a good weekend :)
@@LakesideAutobody Thanks,you too. You're a tidier worker than me- I'd have covered the tyre with an old cloth to be safe!
@@andyrendell7430 Oh you are right - my dad would be disappointed with me if he saw things unprotected like that tire or the panel adjacent to the one that's being worked on. I was always in a hurry 😊
@@LakesideAutobody Any advice on fixtures into GRP? I haveva hinge to refix on a GRP ie fibetglass boat and wonder if just resin in the old holes redrilled can be used,or with glass,or a separate epixy filler best. I though resin might clog the job.
@@andyrendell7430 You might want to try the epoxy. Like - rough the holes up a bit with a burr, drill bit or sand paper and fill with JB Weld. Let me know what you end up using Andy :)
I like how you cut down the larger sanding disc to repurpose it for the smaller grinder. Very practical.
If you were to do the same repair with the inexpensive Harbor Freight flux core welder, would you have cut out the weak metal and overlapped a patch of new 20g sheet metal then body fill, prime etc.?
Yes Here's a video on exactly what you are talking about - th-cam.com/video/H87b1xlGofw/w-d-xo.html
Thank you Jerry. I have learned and applied many of the techniques you have demonstrated. My execution is not nearly as good as yours, but good enough. My restoration is a driver, not a show car. My wife and neighbors are impressed. You deserve a fair amount of the credit for sharing your skills. Thanks again. Will continue to watch your videos on bodywork and keep up with tools you endorse.@@LakesideAutobody
Excellent
Thank you so much 😀
Hi! I have another quick question. I'm restoring an old truck and the metal in the bed is in great shape, except that it has a lot of little scratches that have surface-rusted over the years. Would you recommend I grind down each of those tiny little nicks and then fill over each of them? I was thinking I might por-15 the whole inside of the bed just because it seems faster. Any tips for working smarter and not harder at this? Thanks for all you do!
That's always been a tough job. These are very fast for getting in all the ribs but they don't remove the scratches. The right way is to feather edge all of the scratches prime, block, etc. but that is way too much work. You could prep best you can with a DA & the HF abrasive wheel then throw in a plastic bed liner.... That's what I like to do. You could also have Line-x spray in a nice thick bed liner which would cover a lot of it. Last if you want it looking factory, you could scuff it, DA, abrasive wheel it, primer with feather fill (thick poly primer) smooth it with a DA taking out the scratches and paint - that's work too though. Those are a few choices I can think of - let me know what you end up doing :)
Nice work..
Thank you
I've never used fiberglass before but have a job on my car, similar to that of your video. I was just wondering if you could elaborate on a difference of plain filler or fiberglass concerning adhesion to expanding and contracting metal.
You will never have a problem with filler or fiberglass being affected by the expansion and contraction of metal. There is not enough exp. and cont. to have a negative effect.
What do you do on the backside of the panel? Brush resin over it to encapsulate the rust? Also, I'm guessing rust won't be able to pop through the resin area once it's encapsulated right?
You are absolutely right. If you took the fender off and sand blasted the back side after the repair and sprayed it real nice with under coating, it would last very long - no moisture - no rust :) That's why you want to make sure it can dry out in there and not hold water and debris.
thanks, my old truck needs some of this.
You're welcome :)
Good job, thanks!
Thanks A - have a good weekend :)
excellent repair did you treat the rust on the inside and protect with a rubber underseal..
No but that's a good idea if you can access it. Drainage is really important too. Thanks for the support and comment Steve :)
This reminds me of going to the dentist, job well done, you are a real artistisan.
Thanks JD :)
Where would you recommend drilling drain holes on the rockers of a 97 s10 extended cab? Also what size bit would you use? I was thinking near the pinch weld when I was going over it a month or so ago. Weather is getting warmer now so getting ready to start on it.
Thanks
I drill them big - like 1/2" at the back of the rocker and the front as low as possible because when the car is parked it's always slanting either to the back or the front and the water has to drain out. No worries about water getting in because it's going to get in anyway - might as well be able to rinse it out in there with a hose or an air hose. You want it clean and dry inside those rockers.
Thanks for getting back. Its definitely appreciated.
I did some of this work many years ago while in high school. I've also used fiberglass in the cracked fiberglass hoods on Deere lawn tractors along with the little welder staples. Getting ready to do an old truck and this might well come in handy!! I worked in an AMC/Jeep body shop as a kid untwisting Jeeps. Restored one International Scout myself.
I love those old International Scouts - very tough looking :)
Bondo Glass works out much better and takes less time. Depends on what your preference is. This is a great video!
Thanks GGL - have a good weekend :)
nice job man godbless
God bless you too my friend :)
I’m looking to do a similar fender repair, however the rust ate right to the edge of the curve. I was thinking of using fibreglass and bending it around the edge to follow the flow of the fender. However, you said fibreglass is very difficult to bend. In this case, what would be a good solution? Metal mesh to follow the curve and than fibreglass on top?
The chopped strand fiberglass instead of the woven is easier to make a bend. Like you said too - you could encase some metal mesh with the fiber glass cloth - little pieces. Good idea for a video :)