I made the mistake of trying to clean mine while it was still energized and managed to damage it, causing it to idle worse, stall and hunt, had to get a replacement one and now this one is showing similar symptoms years later I know how to clean it properly thanks to your video
Just want to give you a shout out. I've watched and used many of your videos since I bought a 2009 F-150 last year. I'm retired Navy and was an aircraft mechanic for 20 years. Your videos have been a blessing to me and have saved me a ton of money. I've always worked on my own cars and trucks but the knowledge in getting from your videos is huge. I don't think people understand what it takes for you to put these out as far as time and effort goes. So thank you so very much Sir. Bravo Zulu, a Navy term meaning Job Well Done.
Thanks for the video, I had to do this in an auto parts store parking lot while on vacation with my family. The truck would die every time it came to a stop. I watched the video real quick, went in and bought some tools & cleaner and got it cleaned. The truck has ran fine since then!
Thanks for the video! I just cleaned my 2010 ford fusion's throttle body and it is way more responsive and idles great. It only took 30 minutes and thanks for showing me the right way to clean it. Didn't cut my finger off or damage the throttle body. :)
I second this. Right around a year ago this month, actually, I cleaned the throttle body in my trailblazer that had 155K miles of crap on it, and failed to keep the electronics to the top, and ended up getting some cleaner inside, causing a high cold start idle and lots of random fluctuation. Finally, I went and bought a good used one from a salvage yard today, cleaned it up while keeping the electronics to the top the whole time, and never aiming the spray directly at the hole for the rod of the butterfly valve, and so far it's fixed my issues.
POWER RESTORED! 2009 F150 5.4L 3v - 180,000 miles. I cleaned the TB per these instructions and performed a relearn from the other video. During the first test drive, the throttle seemed like it was sticking. Like it was in cruise control. When I came to a stop, it was surging back and forth between 700rpm and almost 2000. I could shut off the engine, restart, and it would idle great, very smooth. As soon as I gave any throttle, it would start surging again. I rechecked my fittings and plugs. Started back up, idle was good until I touched the pedal. It still surged but was diminished some. But it was like it was still trying to figure out the idle. So I barely taped the throttle, it would rev and hold for a moment then come back down to a smooth idle. Did another shut off and restart. Then it was idling perfect even when I revved the engine; it came back down to normal idle. Did another test drive, WOW! Significantly noticeable power increase. Now onto the induction service. I could see down into the intake manifold, and it was quite dirty. THANK YOU, FordTeckMakuloco!
Thank you so much for this video. My 2008 Ford Escape Hybrid was randomly shutting off, even on the freeway, for months. I was able to gain access and clean the throttle body without removing it from the car. So easy. I have gone another 15,000 miles since with no problem. Thank you again!
Great video. At $50 for a replacement throttle body, I decided to just replace it in my 2009 Escape Hybrid w 120k miles. Your other video detailing those steps helped significantly. Great work!
Your video helped me understand why I should have the throttle body service done that my service provider recommended. Thank you. Very interesting to watch!
Talking to my dodge hemi expert, and he said they recommend NOT using carb cleaner for this. They recommend brake cleaner. Sounds like it was exclusive to 5.7 hemis, but i didn't ask for an explanation.Used the brake cleaner, and it worked fine. Just be super careful not to get any even near the electronics! Thanks for clearing up the myth about moving the butterfly valve when it's on the bench. A lot people on their videos are painstakingly trying to clean it up without touching the plate. Lol.... Gawd....... it's agonizing to watch, when you know they could move it without hurting anything. As you said, connected is a different story!! Thanks! .
Once the cleaning is complete, I also put a drop or two of oil (3 in 1 oil, etc) in both pivot points of the butterfly and work the oil in a bit, then wipe down any excess. It helps to keep that moving joint lubricated and moisture/ice free.
@@christophervanzetta Done over 2 years ago and still works like a charm in my Ford V8. I'm not worried about the minuscule amount of oil being sucked into the intake, if that's what you're driving at.
can't resist comment, the gunk causing the carbon and varnish is from petroleum products, gasoline and lubricating oil vapors. So putting a drop of oil on the pivot points of the butterfly is harmless. the temperatures of the throttle body are not high enough to cook the oil and even if so it is not going to cause a major failure anymore than the normal deposits that will come with time. The oil is effective for a time, whether it is long enough or whether the lubricated parts really experience a beneficial difference in function I can't say but the thinking sure seems right, can't hurt is the big point here.
Wow. Never knew that these could actuate with key off. Makes sense when you mentioned the ice breaker strategy. Thanks for posting this Brian. They fingers you may have saved could be mine!
That is bullshit they do not work when the ignition key is off. Do not disconnect the battery,,, just disconnect the throttle body . Electrical plugs,,,,, let the cleaner evaporate,,, before reconnecting or starting the vehicle,,,,,
@@ricksimpson2167 Your Logic is just like some Automotive personell that work on cars everyday for a Living...This AIN'T 1985. I once worked for this Fella in Downey,CA. ( Real Nice Guy ) He installed the WRONG Grade of Motor Oil in a Womans car. When she drove up those steep a_ _ Hills in the Los Angeles Forest, her Engine SEIZED up on 'er. How much did that "Uneducated Knowledge cost my Boss" ? ..It wouldn't shock me one bit if you aren't one of those Rascals that still think in January 2020 that "Oil is Oil, we can use any Oil". The Author of this Video is an Ex Ford Dealership Technician and a U.S. Marine outta Chicago...He definitely knows what he's talking about. Ex- GM Dealership Technician Southern California
I recently bought a 2007 Five Hundred with 103300 miles on it. After replacing the spark plugs, I cleaned the throttle body and followed the re-learn procedure. The car runs so much better- no hesitation, no low-speed stumbling. Thanks for the tips.
I’m glad I found your video I was going to clean my NC Miata’s throttle body soon and figured I could leave the throttle body on the car and just wipe it with a rag around the bore and possibly open the actuator maybe even resulting in my finger getting clamped, thank you sir
Excellent demonstrational video. Straight to the point and not ten minutes of needless yaking. Thank you! I'm Not putting other peoples videos down, but when you need the how to and not the other stuff this is the type video you want. The only down side? It's a FORD! Just kiddin' keep up the good work. Thanks. :)
@@newfie-dean5803 Yes, I agree, but even though it says carburetor cleaner, its made for throttle bodies also. I have been using it for over 20 years, It can be hard to find.
Thanks a million for this video tutorial. Worked all night and on my way home my car stalled after I exited the highway and stopped at the light. I was able to put the truck in neutral and restart my 2004 4.6L Explorer. For years I’ve noticed that @80mph uphill or cruising my SUV would give a slightly smooth trot, it was noticeable because everyone head would give a steady nod while riding ein my SUV. I didn’t mind because I had no issues until my 2nd battery and 2nd alternator died. The battery and alternator 1st died in 4yrs. I spent over 6 $Bills in 2008 and 10yrs later I decided to change them myself. One thing I didn’t know was that I had to reset the computer memory and once my battery and alternator had been replaced I noticed the car idling at +/-400RPM and got a code: P0506 Idle Control System RPM - Lower Than Expexted two days later. I used MAF cleaner, lint free wipes and a clean nylon pipe cleaner without removing the valve since I do not have the replacement gaskets This week. I’ll monitor the result.
Very good video. I was going to just use the spray with the throttle body on the engine but seeing all that junk on the other side of the plate, I am now going to take it off to do the job right.
Another great video! I just watched this vid and the "Electronic Throttle Body Calibration Procedure" video. BEFORE removing the throttle body for cleaning, would you recommend I disconnect the battery? Then clean/reinstall TB (with new OE Ford gasket) and perform calibration procedure? Vehicle is 2012 Ford Fusion SEL w/2.5L, Auto. Long time (43 years) Ford owner and your time and efforts are truly appreciated.... Thanks in advance!
thanks again for clear concise no-fuss vid. Question: no issues moving throttle plate while disconnected ... and is it acceptable to disconnect TB without disconnecting battery to remove/clean/replace?
Came across this video again… I like to watch your videos even when I’m not working on my vehicles. I wish I would’ve watched this one before I messed with my Expedition throttle body. I am aware of the potential to disrupt the motor/ butterfly position. However, I foolishly have done this on vehicles with no repercussions… until that one dreaded day. Let me tell you it was a horrible drive from work back to the place I was staying. Was working out of town, but had the right tools to get it done. I won’t EVER do that again.
@@FordTechMakuloco If a test like that were to be done use a chicken bone and even a throttle body you don't need. The second part is only in case the test causes any damage then you won't have to get a new one.
@@FordTechMakuloco2011 Ford Fiesta. Excellent condition at 110,000 miles. All maintenance since new. Transmission seems fine. Runs great out on the highway….one problem. Feel a vibration in the steering wheel or engine while idling at 9000 rpm’s. Do not seem to feel it at higher rpm’s or when driving on the highway You got any ideas?
I really wish I could pick your brain I did a total timing chain replacement on 4.0 sohc good compression good spark but now my computer is throwing all different random codes any ideals
Does moving the plate manually when disconnected not ruin it? I’ve seen on so many different places saying not to move it because it could break, even when disconnected
Hi Brian. Your videos are saving me a TON of time and money. The Ford Service Manual states to 'Discard the throttle body O-ring seal' and 'Using a new O-ring seal, install the throttle body.' Is that necessary? Thanks!
I cleaned mine with carb/intake cleaner before watching this video, what will happen to my throttle body? it was very dirty but it didn't have any coked on carbon like in this video. But when I sprayed carb cleaner, thick black liquid flowed and there was loads of it. I read that the throttle body valve itself has some kind of covering on it? My car seems to be running fine after cleaning it anyway but my problem wasn't the valve it was a breather pipe the whole time.
Yes,this is excellent demonstration.I'm in the process of cleaning throttle body and mass air flow sensor on my Toyota Corolla 2006.I disconnected electrical wires from throttle body,and I'm using proper cleaning fluid,but I'm still afraid to touch that butterfly inside of unit.I don't want to ruin thing. Are you sure about touching that after taking electrical connection out?
Thanks for this, I'd been concerned about cleaning my electronic throttle body as I didnt want to mess up the timing of the motor. I'll simply disconnect and crack on!
@@beast11135 do you still do "relearn" procedure? I get mixed messages from ppl saying if you clean electronic throttle body you must do throttle relearn procedure. Thus, I've been too afraid of cleaning it myself.
Thank you for the video! I've heard if you poke the valve while it's in the car, it could possibly necessitate a reprogramming of the computer. Assuming I disconnect the whole thing, without touching the valve, and pull it out of the car like you did, would THAT require one to have to do any computer reset or programming? Sorry if this is a dumb question. I know only enough to be dangerous! I have a 2013 Jeep JK. Thanks to anybody who knows.
BTW, excellent video. You probably saved me a hospital visit. But when you put it back on, do you have to have it re-learned? Does it relearn on it's own or do you have to bring it to a mechanic who has a computer to re-learn it? Can we do it ourselves, and if so, any special equipment needed?
Great vid. QUESTION : I was told to hold the throttle body with the motor topside when cleaning to avoid the cleaner and carbon guck from running down the throttle shaft and into the motor and gears. (Causing failures). Any experience with that, or is there a shaft seal? Also I use a soft bristle tooth brush, gets in there easier.
I went through high water here in New Orleans Saturday and now my electronic throttle control light is on running bad and hardly any power .. gonna give it s shot n change it myself
I followed these steps and also cleaned MAP and MAS and reset the codes and recalibrated the PCM/ETB. Everything went great for 48 hours and I kicked a P2111 error referring to the throttle actuator control stuck open. That's the motor on the side of the ETB that nobody talks about. Is that cleanable?
So I get this straight, you CAN move the blade when it is NOT energized correct? No fear of damage to motors or gears? I did move the plate on one of my cars when energized and I think it f-ed up my TB. And now I am concerned that I was sticking my fingers in there. You are a wonderful resource.
disconnect the battery ground, then the throttle body connector , and only after that can then move the plate manually, Never mess with moving the throttle plate with power on as the computer will see it as unintended throttle movement that's not commanded and it will try and drive the motor to jam the throttle back closed with considerable force to correct it back to the position where its expected to be . This will injure your finger and damage the throttle servo drive mechanism. please correct me if I am wrong.. flushing all that gunk into your engine intake is a bad thing to do anyway, and you can not clean it properly when its mounted.
Heard on a lot of videos one shouldnt manually move the throttle body flaps on an electronic throttle body cos that could damage it, whats your take on that ?
You can move it but you have to do it slowly, is a motor, if you move it generate electricity and can damage de electronic parts. Try to clean it first manually with a towel or something because you dont want the dirty go inside the rotor of the motor. Mamoluko have a video how to reset the PCM so the TB can be relearn, if you move the flap usually you need it to relearn.
I cleaned mine while still installed moved the butterfly valve based on bad advice and my car has been struggling since I can only go 3k RPM and sometimes it won't start after I've driven for a bit. I have a replacement throttle body coming soon and hope will solve the problem.
Great video, very informative, I have a 2004 mazda 6, 6 cylinder and I am planning on cleaning throttle body as you show in video. I have a couple of questions, does tb need gaskets and approximately how long would it take complete entire job from taking off tb to putting it back on after cleaning. Thanks.
@@FordTechMakuloco I worry about the "most time" part...good to have one with ya' just in case if you are far from a Ford auto parts just saying. Tks for your advice on the subject.
Nice video. I've seen people clean them while still mounted but have never thought that was a good idea. I know the spray evaporates, but all that gunk could run down into your engine, right?? Not to mention pieces of cloth, brush bristles, etc. They are so easy to take off (at least on my vehicle) that it never seemed wise to do it while installed.
very helpful video, but mostly if you own a Ford. I desperately want to clean my 09' Lexus GS 350's throttle body but also..like others...have read that you shouldn't manually open the valve by hand as it may cause you to reprogram ecu, etc. How would i find out if REMOVING the entire body (like you did in your video) would allow me to clean but without causing damage or requiring a reprogram?
FordTechMakuloco not sure what exactly your message is here. What, exactly, are you saying is "a good practice" ?? You saying "removing the entire assembly before cleaning" is a good practice or what??
For my 2009 Jeep Compas 2.4L, my ETC (Electronic Throttle Conttol) light has come on from time-to-time, each time the Compass went into "limp mode". It's driving fine now, but yesterday, it went into limp mode for about 20 minutes, where before it did it for a second or two. The throttle body is about $230. Just wondering if that was the problem or maybe something else. A garage to do a dashboard light diagnostic would cost over $100 which I'd like to avoid. Maybe I should just take out the existing throttle body and clean it up first before doing anything else? Not sure what else to do.
Thank you for clearing this electronic info on the throttle. I hope to clean mine on my Rav4 2005. Any added info for my rav 4 2005 is greatly appreciated.
Good stuff to know! Thanks for your great video. I 've seen a bunch that never mention the electronic throttle pitfalls... I'm wondering if anyone can answer my question. In the process of getting to the root of fuel trim problems, I was going to clean the throttle body. When I opened it up, however, I discovered that it was clean as new, no exaggeration. The car has 43000 miles on it. I have run techron through the car on a semi-regular basis, and my previous tank of gas I ran the complete fuel system cleaner through it. But I don't understand how that would affect the throttle body. Also, what about the possibility of a stuck PCV valve keeping it from getting dirty? Though I would expect that would throw a code, which my computer has never thrown. thanks
I’d check the PCV to see if it sticks. I change mine every 15K on my Corolla. I’d check for any kind of leaks in the hoses. Check the brake booster hose. Check for leaks in the fuel rail etc. Just check everything you can to see what needs to be cleaned/fixed/replaced.
I did the same but my throttle body start acting weird, my car is santafee 2016 3.3. I did relearn procedure but also no success. Any other suggestion?
Thanks for your fine instructions and taking the time to do this. Replaced my wife's ac on her freestyle as per your video and I'm her hero now. LOL Thanks so much.
Just curious have you folks had many issues with your freestyle? My girlfriends has needed a PCM replacement, key programming, water pump and alternator still yet to be completed due to the vehicle having two alternator options and we are yet to locate the correct one. Option for rear AC and non. Thermostat too. Ours is at 243k miles and I guess everything just had to take a dump all at the same time.
I heard operating the electronic throttle body by hand disturbs its calibration. I assume that's when the throttle body is attached to the vehicle. It's safe to operate the butterfly by hand, and it won't have any effect on its calibration. Is my understanding correct?
These videos are life savers...well I thought i had it. it broke..thanks ford for yet another pos idea to put the tab to unlock it on the bottom..and I really needed my truck. Tip I learned is to go ahead and take the throttle body off and leave the throttle cable connected (the one with the red tab underneath) then you can simply turn it upside down and actually see what the hell is going on. Like I said my red tab broke completely off but oddly it still snapped back on securely and even with it turned upside down and fiddling with it after the tab had already broke I'm not sure where i pressed to allow it to come off..but it did and went back on and snapped without the little red tab. How hard would it have been to just make it like the throttle position sensor..I mean ffs ford. Anyway after cleaning the throttle body thoroughly with crc throttle body cleaner (only use this cleaner..carb cleaner is to harsh) and installing a new throttle body gasket (Fel-Pro Throttle Body Mounting Gasket - 61438) on my 2005 f150 5.4 3v it now idles like it's supposed to and don't try to die when I go from park to drive and/or turn my steering wheel like before. This repair basically cost me $16 total
I own GM trucks and never move it by hand b/c I'm afraid that I may throw the calibration off. I always remove them and clean both sides with out moving the blade. On this Ford, could you have simply disconnected the pig tail wiring harness? Of course it is so easy to remove them it makes sense to do so and get better results.
I’ve got a 2014 f150 and I’ve used your videos for tips and references for many years, my wife drives a 2013 edge 3.5 and over the past few weeks she’s been dealing with fluctuating rpm’s, she stated that it’s mostly from a stop until the car shifts into second gear then it’s fine, is the MAF sensor or throttle body where I need to start diagnosing? No CEL lights come on.
Ahh the old p115e. My 09 f150 started detonating under load and idling rough. Then that code popped up. Both of my upstream o2s throw a light at the same time but I'm 100% certain that the tsb will fix that..
...nicely done sir, is it safe to move the plate and not affect the TB's function, i have cleaned my fiesta's TB (for the 1st time) using quick dry contact cleaner and a microfiber cloth, but i never moved the plate since i'm not sure about it and i might damage the TB, is it safe to move the plate?
Hi, thanks so much for sharing. I think i have an issue with the throttle sensor. It's drained in oil/diesel mixture every instance that i check for. When i unplug the sensor cable the engine runs solidly. Whenever it's attached the rpm's are throttled down. To you have an idea to this?
I have a 2011 f150. I disconnected the battery, when I connected it again it started idling rough. I would press on the gas and as the truck went down on the rpms it would want to shut off. I “tried” to move my truck from the parking spot and it shut off. I cleaned the MAF sensor and it kind of work. I was wondering if this could help it back to normal
Yo my man i followed ur video about the cleaning it worked but it snowed a week later got to -18c went to start it, but nothing so i asked a buddy to check it, it was ALL Mass air flow senor he reset it i clean that to but the engine light came on again. I noticed u took off that plastic piece on the throttle body, on mine its more of an triangle shape but on urs its more of a rectangle, do i get a whole new throttle body n that comes with it? Or do i just replace that one peace thanks
I made the mistake of trying to clean mine while it was still energized and managed to damage it, causing it to idle worse, stall and hunt, had to get a replacement one and now this one is showing similar symptoms years later I know how to clean it properly thanks to your video
Just want to give you a shout out. I've watched and used many of your videos since I bought a 2009 F-150 last year. I'm retired Navy and was an aircraft mechanic for 20 years. Your videos have been a blessing to me and have saved me a ton of money. I've always worked on my own cars and trucks but the knowledge in getting from your videos is huge. I don't think people understand what it takes for you to put these out as far as time and effort goes. So thank you so very much Sir. Bravo Zulu, a Navy term meaning Job Well Done.
He's the Guru of the 5.4 I wish he was in dmv area
M
Please tell me that nothing has to be (reset) when unplugging it.
Love the Christian music in the background! I've been catching bits and pieces in your vids!
So gratifying hearing the spray and seeing the black carbon gunk slowly melt. Mesmerizing!
Thanks for the video, I had to do this in an auto parts store parking lot while on vacation with my family. The truck would die every time it came to a stop. I watched the video real quick, went in and bought some tools & cleaner and got it cleaned. The truck has ran fine since then!
Nothing worse than that happening. Glad you were able to get it fixed!
Hoo - Rahh !!
That’s awesome man your kids and wife probably thought you were a hero 👌🏼
@@alonzobanuelos160especially with the wife in bed later that night 😏 Lol I'm just joshing around
Thanks for the video! I just cleaned my 2010 ford fusion's throttle body and it is way more responsive and idles great. It only took 30 minutes and thanks for showing me the right way to clean it. Didn't cut my finger off or damage the throttle body. :)
@lapdog5067
It said "ooh yeah" and called him "daddy?" 🫠
@@SuperSedingAngeL-yr0Lmfao 😂🤣
Has anyone tried to clean it while still attached??
Brian, I also try to keep the motor/gearset towards the upper side in an effort to not allow the solvent into them. As usual another great video.
I second this. Right around a year ago this month, actually, I cleaned the throttle body in my trailblazer that had 155K miles of crap on it, and failed to keep the electronics to the top, and ended up getting some cleaner inside, causing a high cold start idle and lots of random fluctuation. Finally, I went and bought a good used one from a salvage yard today, cleaned it up while keeping the electronics to the top the whole time, and never aiming the spray directly at the hole for the rod of the butterfly valve, and so far it's fixed my issues.
8+ million views for a reason. It's the best video on TH-cam for cleaning your ETB.
2.2
POWER RESTORED! 2009 F150 5.4L 3v - 180,000 miles. I cleaned the TB per these instructions and performed a relearn from the other video. During the first test drive, the throttle seemed like it was sticking. Like it was in cruise control. When I came to a stop, it was surging back and forth between 700rpm and almost 2000. I could shut off the engine, restart, and it would idle great, very smooth. As soon as I gave any throttle, it would start surging again. I rechecked my fittings and plugs. Started back up, idle was good until I touched the pedal. It still surged but was diminished some. But it was like it was still trying to figure out the idle. So I barely taped the throttle, it would rev and hold for a moment then come back down to a smooth idle. Did another shut off and restart. Then it was idling perfect even when I revved the engine; it came back down to normal idle. Did another test drive, WOW! Significantly noticeable power increase. Now onto the induction service. I could see down into the intake manifold, and it was quite dirty.
THANK YOU, FordTeckMakuloco!
If its a ford or lincoln and I need a repair video, you are the first I go to. Thank you for your videos.
Thank you so much for this video. My 2008 Ford Escape Hybrid was randomly shutting off, even on the freeway, for months. I was able to gain access and clean the throttle body without removing it from the car. So easy. I have gone another 15,000 miles since with no problem. Thank you again!
I think theres a recall for the second generation escapes. If you still have the car and it's acting funny, look it up. It's a free replacement.
Great video. At $50 for a replacement throttle body, I decided to just replace it in my 2009 Escape Hybrid w 120k miles. Your other video detailing those steps helped significantly. Great work!
Your video helped me understand why I should have the throttle body service done that my service provider recommended. Thank you. Very interesting to watch!
FordTechMakuloco I remove the throttle body because it is easier to clean. Thanks for the warning on the energized motor and gear reduction.
Talking to my dodge hemi expert, and he said they recommend NOT using carb cleaner for this. They recommend brake cleaner. Sounds like it was exclusive to 5.7 hemis, but i didn't ask for an explanation.Used the brake cleaner, and it worked fine. Just be super careful not to get any even near the electronics! Thanks for clearing up the myth about moving the butterfly valve when it's on the bench. A lot people on their videos are painstakingly trying to clean it up without touching the plate. Lol.... Gawd....... it's agonizing to watch, when you know they could move it without hurting anything. As you said, connected is a different story!! Thanks! .
Right you want to use throttle body cleaner not carb cleaner nor brake cleaner they are way too harsh.
Thanks!
Thanks a lot for this video and all of your other videos! I couldn't quite send you $50, but I just wanted to show my support.
Thank you so much!
@@FordTechMakuloco I wanted to give you more $, but it was either $10 or $50...I would have chosen something in between.
Once the cleaning is complete, I also put a drop or two of oil (3 in 1 oil, etc) in both pivot points of the butterfly and work the oil in a bit, then wipe down any excess. It helps to keep that moving joint lubricated and moisture/ice free.
It will burn off strait away and leave a new mess behind
@@BlatentlyFakeName Well... it hasn't. I'm not sure if you know this, but the throttle body is not inside the combustion chamber.
@@SevenSixTwo2012 Bad practice my dude…
@@christophervanzetta Done over 2 years ago and still works like a charm in my Ford V8. I'm not worried about the minuscule amount of oil being sucked into the intake, if that's what you're driving at.
can't resist comment, the gunk causing the carbon and varnish is from petroleum products, gasoline and lubricating oil vapors. So putting a drop of oil on the pivot points of the butterfly is harmless. the temperatures of the throttle body are not high enough to cook the oil and even if so it is not going to cause a major failure anymore than the normal deposits that will come with time. The oil is effective for a time, whether it is long enough or whether the lubricated parts really experience a beneficial difference in function I can't say but the thinking sure seems right, can't hurt is the big point here.
Great video. Throttle body is clean, Mustang is running well again, and I still have all of my fingers. Thanks for the guidance.
Did you have check engine light on or was it just running a high idle?
So satisfying to see something dirty being cleaned.
😉
You've given me the courage to do this with mu 08 maxima. The thing most of you miss is putting it back on and starting the car. Thanks.
Wow. Never knew that these could actuate with key off. Makes sense when you mentioned the ice breaker strategy. Thanks for posting this Brian. They fingers you may have saved could be mine!
unhook the battery, then you lose the computer memory, its easier to just unplug the Throttle Body.
you need to do a relearn process after doing this anyways.. disconnect the battery and do the proper relearn.
That is bullshit they do not work when the ignition key is off. Do not disconnect the battery,,, just disconnect the throttle body . Electrical plugs,,,,, let the cleaner evaporate,,, before reconnecting or starting the vehicle,,,,,
@@ricksimpson2167
Your Logic is just like some Automotive personell that work on cars everyday for a Living...This AIN'T 1985.
I once worked for this Fella in Downey,CA. ( Real Nice Guy )
He installed the WRONG Grade of Motor Oil in a Womans car. When she drove up those steep a_ _ Hills in the Los Angeles Forest, her Engine SEIZED up on 'er.
How much did that "Uneducated Knowledge cost my Boss" ? ..It wouldn't shock me one bit if you aren't one of those Rascals that still think in January 2020 that "Oil is Oil, we can use any Oil".
The Author of this Video is an Ex Ford Dealership Technician and a U.S. Marine outta Chicago...He definitely knows what he's talking about.
Ex- GM Dealership Technician
Southern California
@@cbarkwell1000 I’d strongly advise against disconnecting the throttle body OR battery unless you want more headaches.
I recently bought a 2007 Five Hundred with 103300 miles on it. After replacing the spark plugs, I cleaned the throttle body and followed the re-learn procedure. The car runs so much better- no hesitation, no low-speed stumbling. Thanks for the tips.
+Rj Greek Two months later, the car is running great!!!
I’m glad I found your video I was going to clean my NC Miata’s throttle body soon and figured I could leave the throttle body on the car and just wipe it with a rag around the bore and possibly open the actuator maybe even resulting in my finger getting clamped, thank you sir
Thanks for the video bro.
Background music during the video playing: Sanctus Real - Lead Me...lovely song
I must have been watching intently, as I didn't even realize there WAS music playing!
Excellent demonstrational video. Straight to the point and not ten minutes of needless yaking. Thank you! I'm Not putting other peoples videos down, but when you need the how to and not the other stuff this is the type video you want. The only down side? It's a FORD! Just kiddin' keep up the good work. Thanks. :)
+Riddick Furion Thanks!
Riddick Furion all decks
@@FordTechMakuloco
Can you clean a EGR Body ?
I have found that Motorcraft carburetor tune up spray works great. It has an oily / soapy consistency, it does the trick.
@@newfie-dean5803 Yes, I agree, but even though it says carburetor cleaner, its made for throttle bodies also. I have been using it for over 20 years, It can be hard to find.
Thanks a million for this video tutorial. Worked all night and on my way home my car stalled after I exited the highway and stopped at the light. I was able to put the truck in neutral and restart my 2004 4.6L Explorer. For years I’ve noticed that @80mph uphill or cruising my SUV would give a slightly smooth trot, it was noticeable because everyone head would give a steady nod while riding ein my SUV. I didn’t mind because I had no issues until my 2nd battery and 2nd alternator died. The battery and alternator 1st died in 4yrs. I spent over 6 $Bills in 2008 and 10yrs later I decided to change them myself. One thing I didn’t know was that I had to reset the computer memory and once my battery and alternator had been replaced I noticed the car idling at +/-400RPM and got a code: P0506 Idle Control System RPM - Lower Than Expexted two days later. I used MAF cleaner, lint free wipes and a clean nylon pipe cleaner without removing the valve since I do not have the replacement gaskets This week. I’ll monitor the result.
Is it safe to use a regular toothbrush to clean?
Yes but it would not be suitable to brush your teeth with it afterwards
Only use non-fluoride toothpaste.
Very good video. I was going to just use the spray with the throttle body on the engine but seeing all that junk on the other side of the plate, I am now going to take it off to do the job right.
Another great video! I just watched this vid and the "Electronic Throttle Body Calibration Procedure" video. BEFORE removing the throttle body for cleaning, would you recommend I disconnect the battery? Then clean/reinstall TB (with new OE Ford gasket) and perform calibration procedure? Vehicle is 2012 Ford Fusion SEL w/2.5L, Auto. Long time (43 years) Ford owner and your time and efforts are truly appreciated.... Thanks in advance!
Thank you thank you thank you!!! Just cleaned my 2012 Ford Fusion throttle body. Check engine light is off, and car is rolling!
Once again, another helpful and informative video. Thank you for all the great information on your channel.
I like the fact you used Mopar throttle body cleaner on a ford
Thank you so much for your vids I'm learning new things. By the way loved the back ground music 👍🌞
thanks again for clear concise no-fuss vid. Question: no issues moving throttle plate while disconnected ... and is it acceptable to disconnect TB without disconnecting battery to remove/clean/replace?
Thank you for the informative demonstration. It helped me out a lot. I am not a mechanic, I’m a carpenter.
Came across this video again… I like to watch your videos even when I’m not working on my vehicles. I wish I would’ve watched this one before I messed with my Expedition throttle body. I am aware of the potential to disrupt the motor/ butterfly position. However, I foolishly have done this on vehicles with no repercussions… until that one dreaded day. Let me tell you it was a horrible drive from work back to the place I was staying. Was working out of town, but had the right tools to get it done. I won’t EVER do that again.
Myth busters should've d tested the "chopped finger" legend!
+Nikolai Tsakov I know right! I am not going to test their theory though.
@@FordTechMakuloco If a test like that were to be done use a chicken bone and even a throttle body you don't need. The second part is only in case the test causes any damage then you won't have to get a new one.
@@FordTechMakuloco2011 Ford Fiesta. Excellent condition at 110,000 miles. All maintenance since new. Transmission seems fine. Runs great out on the highway….one problem. Feel a vibration in the steering wheel or engine while idling at 9000 rpm’s. Do not seem to feel it at higher rpm’s or when driving on the highway You got any ideas?
You saved my fingers!
Always hit it from the front also, and then the back again.
I really wish I could pick your brain I did a total timing chain replacement on 4.0 sohc good compression good spark but now my computer is throwing all different random codes any ideals
@@dennisluttrell2228 what codes?
My wife says the same thing.
@@xtrastrengthfukitol7733 lmao. Thats awesome. To funny😂
@@xtrastrengthfukitol7733 ya cracking up 😆
Does moving the plate manually when disconnected not ruin it? I’ve seen on so many different places saying not to move it because it could break, even when disconnected
Hi Brian. Your videos are saving me a TON of time and money. The Ford Service Manual states to 'Discard the throttle body O-ring seal' and 'Using a new O-ring seal, install the throttle body.' Is that necessary? Thanks!
I cleaned mine with carb/intake cleaner before watching this video, what will happen to my throttle body? it was very dirty but it didn't have any coked on carbon like in this video. But when I sprayed carb cleaner, thick black liquid flowed and there was loads of it. I read that the throttle body valve itself has some kind of covering on it?
My car seems to be running fine after cleaning it anyway but my problem wasn't the valve it was a breather pipe the whole time.
Yes,this is excellent demonstration.I'm in the process of cleaning throttle body and mass air flow sensor on my Toyota Corolla 2006.I disconnected electrical wires from throttle body,and I'm using proper cleaning fluid,but I'm still afraid to touch that butterfly inside of unit.I don't want to ruin thing. Are you sure about touching that after taking electrical connection out?
It is ok on Fords yes not sure on other brands.
+FordTechMakuloco Thank you for the quick response.I will try with cleaner,and tooth brush only.
good job. i would say additionally open the throtle body to check the plastic gears and with a fine sandpaper clean the two poles inside.
Great video and I love the Christian Music in the background!
Thanks for this, I'd been concerned about cleaning my electronic throttle body as I didnt want to mess up the timing of the motor. I'll simply disconnect and crack on!
Same. That's what I do every time I clean It. I never clean It while the battery Is connected. I take off the negative terminal before I do this
@@beast11135 do you still do "relearn" procedure? I get mixed messages from ppl saying if you clean electronic throttle body you must do throttle relearn procedure. Thus, I've been too afraid of cleaning it myself.
@@edjo3430 the ford fusion you don't have to do the relearn
@@edjo3430 just clean and put in back in
👍 Cool music in the background.
WOW did not know that.! Thanks.
If it's super dirty can it cause a crank no start?
Thank you for the video! I've heard if you poke the valve while it's in the car, it could possibly necessitate a reprogramming of the computer. Assuming I disconnect the whole thing, without touching the valve, and pull it out of the car like you did, would THAT require one to have to do any computer reset or programming? Sorry if this is a dumb question. I know only enough to be dangerous! I have a 2013 Jeep JK. Thanks to anybody who knows.
DO NOT DISCONNECT THE THROTTLE BODY UNLESS YOU WANT A HEADACHE. Just spray onto a rag and wipe the inside with the vehicle off.
@@christophervanzetta joker
great video, the dealer wanted to changed it; can it be cleaned without changing? thanks.
It should be removed to clean it properly yes.
What is the proper torque spec for the 4 mounting bolts ?
BTW, excellent video. You probably saved me a hospital visit. But when you put it back on, do you have to have it re-learned? Does it relearn on it's own or do you have to bring it to a mechanic who has a computer to re-learn it? Can we do it ourselves, and if so, any special equipment needed?
Great vid. QUESTION : I was told to hold the throttle body with the motor topside when cleaning to avoid the cleaner and carbon guck from running down the throttle shaft and into the motor and gears. (Causing failures). Any experience with that, or is there a shaft seal? Also I use a soft bristle tooth brush, gets in there easier.
I just spray throttle body cleaner on a rag and wipe the best I can. No issues
👍 Great video. Thank you 🙏
I went through high water here in New Orleans Saturday and now my electronic throttle control light is on running bad and hardly any power .. gonna give it s shot n change it myself
@pagansforbreakfast
Lmao
Cars probably junk now
So great Video. So I have a 2009 Ford F150 5.4 3V with over 200,000 miles and need to know if Motorcraft selsl a Timing set and a Cam kit thanks.
I followed these steps and also cleaned MAP and MAS and reset the codes and recalibrated the PCM/ETB. Everything went great for 48 hours and I kicked a P2111 error referring to the throttle actuator control stuck open. That's the motor on the side of the ETB that nobody talks about. Is that cleanable?
Could you do the same video but for a Ford Fiesta? Complete tutorial? Many people in Latin America will be thankful with you and you full tutorial.
So I get this straight, you CAN move the blade when it is NOT energized correct? No fear of damage to motors or gears? I did move the plate on one of my cars when energized and I think it f-ed up my TB. And now I am concerned that I was sticking my fingers in there. You are a wonderful resource.
disconnect the battery ground, then the throttle body connector , and only after that can then move the plate manually, Never mess with moving the throttle plate with power on as the computer will see it as unintended throttle movement that's not commanded and it will try and drive the motor to jam the throttle back closed with considerable force to correct it back to the position where its expected to be . This will injure your finger and damage the throttle servo drive mechanism. please correct me if I am wrong.. flushing all that gunk into your engine intake is a bad thing to do anyway, and you can not clean it properly when its mounted.
Heard on a lot of videos one shouldnt manually move the throttle body flaps on an electronic throttle body cos that could damage it, whats your take on that ?
You can move it but you have to do it slowly, is a motor, if you move it generate electricity and can damage de electronic parts. Try to clean it first manually with a towel or something because you dont want the dirty go inside the rotor of the motor. Mamoluko have a video how to reset the PCM so the TB can be relearn, if you move the flap usually you need it to relearn.
I cleaned mine while still installed moved the butterfly valve based on bad advice and my car has been struggling since I can only go 3k RPM and sometimes it won't start after I've driven for a bit. I have a replacement throttle body coming soon and hope will solve the problem.
nice trick sir
Great video, very informative, I have a 2004 mazda 6, 6 cylinder and I am planning on cleaning throttle body as you show in video. I have a couple of questions, does tb need gaskets and approximately how long would it take complete entire job from taking off tb to putting it back on after cleaning. Thanks.
This can be done in less than 3min for an inexperienced person. Most times the gasket is ok to reuse
Great, thanks, I'm hoping cleaning helps or else the cars getting a for sale sign!
@@FordTechMakuloco I worry about the "most time" part...good to have one with ya' just in case if you are far from a Ford auto parts just saying. Tks for your advice on the subject.
Nice video. I've seen people clean them while still mounted but have never thought that was a good idea. I know the spray evaporates, but all that gunk could run down into your engine, right?? Not to mention pieces of cloth, brush bristles, etc. They are so easy to take off (at least on my vehicle) that it never seemed wise to do it while installed.
My thoughts exactly. You don’t swallow your toothpaste after brushing, right? 😂
Very helpful,thanks!
very helpful video, but mostly if you own a Ford. I desperately want to clean my 09' Lexus GS 350's throttle body but also..like others...have read that you shouldn't manually open the valve by hand as it may cause you to reprogram ecu, etc. How would i find out if REMOVING the entire body (like you did in your video) would allow me to clean but without causing damage or requiring a reprogram?
gratefulRed69 Any electronic throttle body this is a good practice.
FordTechMakuloco not sure what exactly your message is here. What, exactly, are you saying is "a good practice" ?? You saying "removing the entire assembly before cleaning" is a good practice or what??
good practice to disconnect power to it before moving the throttle plate.
For my 2009 Jeep Compas 2.4L, my ETC (Electronic Throttle Conttol) light has come on from time-to-time, each time the Compass went into "limp mode". It's driving fine now, but yesterday, it went into limp mode for about 20 minutes, where before it did it for a second or two. The throttle body is about $230. Just wondering if that was the problem or maybe something else. A garage to do a dashboard light diagnostic would cost over $100 which I'd like to avoid. Maybe I should just take out the existing throttle body and clean it up first before doing anything else? Not sure what else to do.
Great video man.
Thank you for explaining the safety factor. You may have just saved my finger.
Greg Galla Mine as well, buddy.
Greg Galla same here! I wouldn't have even thought about it lol
Yes thank you... saved my finger too.
Island Mike Before or after be pulls it?
I always love the music playing in the background of all your videos
Is the MOPAR cleaner ok to use on a Ford throttle body? It is available locally, everything else is currently out of stock. Thanks.
Could you just remove the negative battery cable, instead of taking the throttle body off the car to eliminate the chance of damage? Thank you.
Yes
Thank you for clearing this electronic info on the throttle. I hope to clean mine on my Rav4 2005. Any added info for my rav 4 2005 is greatly appreciated.
You are on the WRONG channel! Go to Scotty Killer channel, he has been fixing Toyotas for 51 years.
Good stuff to know! Thanks for your great video. I 've seen a bunch that never mention the electronic throttle pitfalls... I'm wondering if anyone can answer my question. In the process of getting to the root of fuel trim problems, I was going to clean the throttle body. When I opened it up, however, I discovered that it was clean as new, no exaggeration. The car has 43000 miles on it. I have run techron through the car on a semi-regular basis, and my previous tank of gas I ran the complete fuel system cleaner through it. But I don't understand how that would affect the throttle body. Also, what about the possibility of a stuck PCV valve keeping it from getting dirty? Though I would expect that would throw a code, which my computer has never thrown. thanks
I’d check the PCV to see if it sticks. I change mine every 15K on my Corolla. I’d check for any kind of leaks in the hoses. Check the brake booster hose. Check for leaks in the fuel rail etc.
Just check everything you can to see what needs to be cleaned/fixed/replaced.
Thanks so much. You helped me did it myself to save some money.
do we need to replace the gasket when we take it off?
+ZynovFTW It's a good idea yes.
just off my opinion i didnt an no leaks depends on damage
I've reused the gasket on mine twice. Only because nobody ever had one in stock.
Just use silicon gasket thats what i did for mine and it works
@@rays7437 make a gasket is a page sheet for like $12 make sure you get the gasket sheet for gas then take the old one and trace it then cut it out
Once taken off do you have to reprogram it or no ?
I did the same but my throttle body start acting weird, my car is santafee 2016 3.3. I did relearn procedure but also no success.
Any other suggestion?
I have a 2017 expedition 3.5. Where does the carbon come from that is attaching to the throttle body flap?
Thanks for your fine instructions and taking the time to do this. Replaced my wife's ac on her freestyle as per your video and I'm her hero now. LOL Thanks so much.
Just curious have you folks had many issues with your freestyle? My girlfriends has needed a PCM replacement, key programming, water pump and alternator still yet to be completed due to the vehicle having two alternator options and we are yet to locate the correct one. Option for rear AC and non. Thermostat too. Ours is at 243k miles and I guess everything just had to take a dump all at the same time.
I heard operating the electronic throttle body by hand disturbs its calibration.
I assume that's when the throttle body is attached to the vehicle. It's safe to operate the butterfly by hand, and it won't have any effect on its calibration.
Is my understanding correct?
These videos are life savers...well I thought i had it. it broke..thanks ford for yet another pos idea to put the tab to unlock it on the bottom..and I really needed my truck. Tip I learned is to go ahead and take the throttle body off and leave the throttle cable connected (the one with the red tab underneath) then you can simply turn it upside down and actually see what the hell is going on. Like I said my red tab broke completely off but oddly it still snapped back on securely and even with it turned upside down and fiddling with it after the tab had already broke I'm not sure where i pressed to allow it to come off..but it did and went back on and snapped without the little red tab.
How hard would it have been to just make it like the throttle position sensor..I mean ffs ford. Anyway after cleaning the throttle body thoroughly with crc throttle body cleaner (only use this cleaner..carb cleaner is to harsh) and installing a new throttle body gasket (Fel-Pro Throttle Body Mounting Gasket - 61438) on my 2005 f150 5.4 3v it now idles like it's supposed to and don't try to die when I go from park to drive and/or turn my steering wheel like before. This repair basically cost me $16 total
I own GM trucks and never move it by hand b/c I'm afraid that I may throw the calibration off. I always remove them and clean both sides with out moving the blade. On this Ford, could you have simply disconnected the pig tail wiring harness? Of course it is so easy to remove them it makes sense to do so and get better results.
I’ve got a 2014 f150 and I’ve used your videos for tips and references for many years, my wife drives a 2013 edge 3.5 and over the past few weeks she’s been dealing with fluctuating rpm’s, she stated that it’s mostly from a stop until the car shifts into second gear then it’s fine, is the MAF sensor or throttle body where I need to start diagnosing? No CEL lights come on.
Is that Lead Me I hear in the background? Great song.
+Rick “Cre8tv” MG Pretty sure yes
That was the song that I played at my wedding. Nice tunes and great instructions. Thanks brother.😊
Berry good videos thank you I'm follower
Great video. I didn’t see a mention of replacing the throttle body gasket. Does this need to be done?
some cars have reuseable gaskets. His was not
why we need to clean this part? what benefit we get after cleaning like you/he did?
tobysoter
Nice, MOPAR throttle body cleaner
Ahh the old p115e. My 09 f150 started detonating under load and idling rough. Then that code popped up. Both of my upstream o2s throw a light at the same time but I'm 100% certain that the tsb will fix that..
...nicely done sir, is it safe to move the plate and not affect the TB's function, i have cleaned my fiesta's TB (for the 1st time) using quick dry contact cleaner and a microfiber cloth, but i never moved the plate since i'm not sure about it and i might damage the TB, is it safe to move the plate?
Is it possible to just diconnect the terminal and clean it without removing it?
Hi, thanks so much for sharing. I think i have an issue with the throttle sensor. It's drained in oil/diesel mixture every instance that i check for. When i unplug the sensor cable the engine runs solidly. Whenever it's attached the rpm's are throttled down. To you have an idea to this?
tech makuloco thanks sooomuch for all your videos
Excelente Bryan, eres el mejor Brother
Do you think is better cleaning or replace it??
Any concern for knocking the butterfly out of "calibration"?
I have a 2011 f150. I disconnected the battery, when I connected it again it started idling rough. I would press on the gas and as the truck went down on the rpms it would want to shut off. I “tried” to move my truck from the parking spot and it shut off. I cleaned the MAF sensor and it kind of work. I was wondering if this could help it back to normal
Yo my man i followed ur video about the cleaning it worked but it snowed a week later got to -18c went to start it, but nothing so i asked a buddy to check it, it was ALL Mass air flow senor he reset it i clean that to but the engine light came on again. I noticed u took off that plastic piece on the throttle body, on mine its more of an triangle shape but on urs its more of a rectangle, do i get a whole new throttle body n that comes with it? Or do i just replace that one peace thanks