Excellent explanation.. now I can see why its somewhat normal for these to just naturally start to fail around 70k miles on the car.. now I don't feel so bad changing it out.. nice vid
Wonderfully explained. I have BMW E70 X5 went into limp mode with trouble code 2CF8, 2CF9, 2CFA Throttle-Valve Potentiometer 1 & 2. This helped - new throttle body. Saved money, time and alleviated my frustration. Thank you.
I took the throttle body off my 2004 Volvo V70R(it's a job), and it looks exactly like this one. Inside the sensor I see no teeth wear, and I cleaned the contacts. My Volvo has 129,000+ miles on it. Great video!
2006 S40 T5, 255K miles. Here seems to be a good place to share the following (this video helped me resolve my issue). SYMPTOMS: Constant P2281(Air Leak between MAF and Throttle Body) and random misfire on all cylinders (P0300, P0301, P0302, P303, P304, P305). Also, intermittent P2188 (System Too Rich at Idle) and P0170 (Fuel Trim Bank 1). TROUBLESHOOTING: In the last almost 2 years, changed pretty much everything there is to change (Spark Plugs, Coils, Injectors, VVT Solenoids, Turbo Check Valve, Camshaft Position Sensors; fixed failing insulation on several wires of the main engine harness, even considered replacing the ECM), cleaned Throttle Body and MAF, still constant misfire and P2281 😞. Watched this video, disassembled Throttle Body, expected to find worn gear teeth (255K on the beast and clicking sound from the throttle body), teeth looked good. Potentiometer tracks and contacts looked good as well, no unique wear. PROBLEM: Since already there, checked resistance directly on the motor contacts, got between 28 and 35 Ohms while turning the rotor (should be around 1 Ohm or less). Removed the two screws and pulled the motor out, found significant carbon buildup on Commutator, brushes still had plenty of material. FIX: Cleaned/scraped/sanded/sprayed Commutator as much as possible (access is a bit challenging), got to shiny copper (even if not too smooth), got resistance down to just over 1 Ohm at the motor. Note: On my particular model (2006 S40 T5), the motor resistance can be checked between the throttle body's Pins 1 and 4 (a bit hard to access while installed on the car; as an alternative, use Pins 74 and 75 on the larger connector of the harness that attaches to the ECM at the front of the air box; look for single-digit Ohms, preferably less than 2 Ohms). Reassembled, installed Throttle Body, not a single code after 100+ miles (before that, codes were usually popping up within a few miles) 🙂. PROBABLE FAILURE PATH: Due to gradual carbon buildup on the throttle body's electrical motor Commutator, the motor eventually lacks sufficient power to counter return spring force and intermittently lets the throttle body Plate move towards idle. This causes unexpected pressure difference between sensors within the intake path (P2281). These short random failures (less air than what the ECM commands) catch a particular cylinder off fuel/air balance, eventually causing misfire to all cylinders. A prolonged failure would be registered as rich mixture (P2188 and P0170).
Finally a good explanation. Question for anyone who think they know. I was getting some strange throttle position readings on my scan. I have an Accelerator Position Sensor and this Electronic Throttle. When I checked, the butterfly is open all, when I try to close it manually, it opens back under spring tension. When I start, it still stays open. I opened it up, cleaned it out although it was pretty clean already, tested the motor, it works. Im debating whether it is the throttle, or the sensor on the pedal. Thanks..
This is a great video and explains clearly what is the root problem of a worn out throttle body malfunction. Check this first instead of buying endless cans of cleaner spray. Especially if the car has done a lot of miles
This video is excellent!!! I love the no bullshit approach and it has all the info I need to look at my throttle body and what to look for and where to look on my VW Polo Match 9N. Good work guys!
All Renault Clio II drivers should like this video...all throttle bodies of this car fail at 80 to 100k klm... So so common...renault Clio II throttle body is almost identical to this one. Managed to open and save mine for about 10thousand klm but then a tooth on the gearing broke completely.. There is Bosch potentiometer in the Clio throttle body which never fails... What brakes is the plastic gearing. So payed 150euros for a new aftermarket throttle body(original costs about 500euros if you find it).. Thank you for the useful video. LIKE
Amazing video with clear explanations! Very helpful! One very interesting thing that I got to know from this video was the small oscillatory motion of the potentiometer's wiper arm against the resistive tracks which leads to some wear.
Great video! Thank you. These suckers are expensive as hell, and now I know why/how these get re manufactured, new gears, , gasket, clean it up and resell for $150.....Bought one of these aftermarket, and having similar issues just 6 months later. I am cracking open to see if I can fix now.
I've been having issues with my car and I suspect it's the thottlebody with the integrated Throttle Position Sensor. It's nice to see a tear down of it. Nice video.
Great video, explains some of the intermittent issues I was having with my Bosch Throttlebody on Audi Rs5, only 80,000 and 10 years, but occasionally goes into limp mode with everything connected to the PCM flashing up (Stability, Sport Diff) which of course cascades to the TPMS and Handbrake. Not cheap to replace 2 thats for sure :)
Awesome vid. I have an '05 Tundra V6 w/ 140k miles. Recently cleaned my throttle body (yes, with it disconnected from the vehicle), put it all back together and it threw a p2103 code. The plate covering all of the electronics and gears on my model is riveted in so I wasn't able to take it off and check things out. I'm going to do a resistance check on it tomorrow and if it's out of the specified range maybe I'll just drill out those rivets and have a look. Liked and subbed!
I also want to say thank you for your video. I forwarded your video to the mechanic working on my car, given I currently am experiencing this issue. I have to go with the simple acknowledgement of plastic parts tied to electronic sensor is a lousy design.
I get the feeling the plastic parts (usually a nylon type plastic) are used due to weight \ mass and the speed & percision that that particular gear needs to be moved at. Aluminum would still be heavier than plastic...and of course Titanium would put up production costs.
looks like maybe you fell off the youtube sphere but man, this is an excellent explanation. Thank you so much for taking the time and honestly saving me the time of opening mine up to try to rebuild it. is so much more likely that the gears shelled each other out than that the traces or solder joint failed.(as was my previous hope) Awesome vid and would be thrilled if you came back to it.
Oh my gosh this was so helpful now i know why my Sti is stuck in limp mode with an aftermarket TB i tried to get away with using a rivet style body and a clip on style tps cover but ill probably just order a new stock one since its probably worn... I always could hear the connector buzzing (i got a new connector plug on the way too)
icemaker gears work somewhat the same way and what would happen is the sweepers would eventually scrape copper off of the gear wheel, and bridge the circuit across the gaps.
Excellent video, Very well explained. I have a 2008 Mazda 6 (Brisbane Australia) which has suffered a flat battery overnight. I believe caused by the Throttle body being energised even after car switched off overnight. I could hear the bzzing this morning when I checked under the bonnet. Confirmed when I disconnected the cable to the TB. My question is Can I easily replace the motor assembly of the TB, and how do I do it?, or do I just go an buy a whole new TB? Nick
Just had a bunch throttle body codes for my 2005 mustang. The magnets glued to the case of the motor had loosened up and jammed up the motor. I glued them back in to fix it while I wait for a new throttle body.
@@SkyhookStudios can the flap still work fine but not communicating with the computer so no revs. I'm just wondering if somthing like this is possible 👍👍
I've got an '06 XC70 that's throwing MAF codes, fuel trim, O2. New MAF, new plugs, cleaned the TB. No codes for TB, but thinking this could be the problem, since I didn't check the gears and POT when I had it off. Going to check PCV too
Great information on video so much is appreciated thank you ... but I do not own a Volvo I own a 2012 Jaguar XF 5.0 and my throttle body where you took it apart at is making a buzzing humming noise and just need a answer for my question do I need to replace the whole throttle body or can I replace that 1 part where you took it apart at ???
Great video I just have one thing thats bugging me about this. Why does it need to have that second smaller spring that works in opposite way that keeps the throttle from closing completely?
Does the throttle always show codes? I have C30 2.0L and it has issues starting, it turns over, has spark, but it is not getting any fuel. The fuel pressure is good, the issues is that injectors are not getting any signal to engage. But sometimes it starts fine and will drive for hours without any issues. Do you have any suggestions? I am at a total lost
I may have this gear wear problem on my 76,000 mile Corvette Z06. The engine jerks a bit at low throttle. If there is play in the throttle body gears, I could see how the butterfly may be flopping around a little.
I tried cleaning this on my 2011 fusion and the wrench light came on. Sputtering and crappy gas mileage . I'm sure now that I saw this video that it probably needs replacing. Another thing....do you have to recalibrate it when you put on a new one or clean it for that matter ?
As you mentioned, that Bosch Throttle Body is very similar to my Mercedes. Believe Porsche also uses a similar one. The difference is found on the Bosch Part number. Moving to the curve ball. I'm experiencing issues with the Throttle Body and had the same logic. Saw how to clean the flap and the electronic part. Contacts on the potentiometer seem to have regular wear. However, I never saw how a known-good should look like. Definitely not gunked up. Just black dust. The tabs on the flap gear were clean and intact, as well as having all the teeth. The teeth for the driving gear (between DC motor and Flap gear) are intact. Cleaned the contact on the cover (dusty dry), even for the DC motor. Can it be the DC motor or one of its components? (Didn't remove it because I don't have a spare one) Can it just be the plug on the wiring loom?
I have a problem, because the electronic throttle body is burning the relays, I have already checked the wiring and it is in good condition, I have changed several relays and they continue to burn, what is the cause of this?
Sir, appreciate for making things clear. When I check my car's electronic throttle body with Forscan, desired and actual throttle position does not match. There is 2.3° difference at idle and 5°-7° difference on load. Desired position 2.5°, actual position 0.3 at idle. Would it be sth to do with these plastic craps?
One of the greatest videos I have seen about an electronic throttle body. 2 questions, is that a BOSCH TP? How many KM/miles on it that there is so much wear on the plastic threads !?
Thank you that video helped me a lot I do have one question when I put mine back together I can hear that metal gear loose in there is it supposed to have a lock nut or something on it
Thanks for the " edgeumacation" My Dodge Journey is doing the same systems, but no codes for the throttle system. The only code is for the camshaft sensor. Replaced the sensor. Problems did not go away. Im thinking about replacing the throttle body anyway and take the gamble that, that is the problem. The $200 + price tag gives me hesitation
Yep don't move the butterfly valve. I did and now the idle is all screwed up. Gonna try a relearn and if that fails then remove and inspect the guts. I can see how putting back pressure on those plastic gears can screw things up.
How is actuator control motor setting done in drive by wire throttle body to get a desired iddle speed? Could you show me?, illustration with a video would be better.
Hi, I have the same set up on my jet rib it's 2cyl turbo, the throttle body work fine with engine off but as soon as engine is running it doesn't respond to the throttle or rev up.? It's a new throttle potentiometer, where does the signal go from the throttle before it gets to the throttle body? Is there another sensor that could affect it like air flow S or the ecu would control it?
Wow! Just an awesome tutorial. Can this go bad intermittently without throwing a code? My 2007 audi a4 intermittently goes into limp mode when slowly accelerating from a stop light. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
Great video with good in-depth explanation, could issues with the throttle body cause problems with a delay in 2007 V70 auto gear shifting or harsh kicking when shifting from park to reverse?...
I have a VW throwing codes for throttle actuator control and won’t let it start. Do you know what the likely cause of that is, or do I just need to start digging into it?
Thanks for the explanation. My car is 2012 Jetta and draws P0122 code and I suspect the throttle body. So I pull it out from the car. If I shake the throttle body, I can hear some clicking noise inside the throttle body. Does it mean my throttle body is not normal? Before ordering a new one, I want to get your advice. Thanks.
Thank you sir for this video. It's really clear now what the problem of my S80 1999 is. It goes limp and then when I remove the battery cable, it runs again. I AM really looking forward in driving my ’78 Caprice with no computers.
Hi I have hesitation and jerky acceleration, not able to rev all the way, can this also cause RPM to get stuck?? When that happens I flip the gas pedal and it gets unstuck.
Have an issue with mine in my 2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo 3.7L. I'm gonna replace the throttle body. I heard I'll have to do a relearn procedure. And I also heard I don't have to on the wk's. What do you think I should do?
vw polo still goes into limp mode, with EPC light on, eventhough Throttle body is fairly new, Map sensor fairly new(both calibrated at the time of replacement), no obvious intake leaks. Any thoughts? TQ
Great video, I am wondering why throttle body is whinning when I put key on ignition, even engine is not running. Anything wrong? What makes that annoying sound.
Sometimes they whin when you first turn the key on to do a self learn. If it's persistent then it might be a sign of an issue. If the TB can't find the position it wants it will sometimes try persistently.
Hi. Please could you clarify my doubt? Is the butterfly valve is partially open at all the times to allow engine idle running? I mean the butterfly valve is designed such that there will be a slight gap to one semi circle?? Or will properly lock the circle not allowing any air when engine is not running?? Please clarify.. I found my vehicle's butterfly valve is not completely closing the valve to lock the air passage...
Excellent explanation.. now I can see why its somewhat normal for these to just naturally start to fail around 70k miles on the car.. now I don't feel so bad changing it out.. nice vid
my toyota has gone 250K without an issue. 70k is not okay.
Wonderfully explained. I have BMW E70 X5 went into limp mode with trouble code 2CF8, 2CF9, 2CFA Throttle-Valve Potentiometer 1 & 2. This helped - new throttle body. Saved money, time and alleviated my frustration. Thank you.
I took the throttle body off my 2004 Volvo V70R(it's a job), and it looks exactly like this one. Inside the sensor I see no teeth wear, and I cleaned the contacts. My Volvo has 129,000+ miles on it. Great video!
2006 S40 T5, 255K miles. Here seems to be a good place to share the following (this video helped me resolve my issue).
SYMPTOMS:
Constant P2281(Air Leak between MAF and Throttle Body) and random misfire on all cylinders (P0300, P0301, P0302, P303, P304, P305). Also, intermittent P2188 (System Too Rich at Idle) and P0170 (Fuel Trim Bank 1).
TROUBLESHOOTING:
In the last almost 2 years, changed pretty much everything there is to change (Spark Plugs, Coils, Injectors, VVT Solenoids, Turbo Check Valve, Camshaft Position Sensors; fixed failing insulation on several wires of the main engine harness, even considered replacing the ECM), cleaned Throttle Body and MAF, still constant misfire and P2281 😞.
Watched this video, disassembled Throttle Body, expected to find worn gear teeth (255K on the beast and clicking sound from the throttle body), teeth looked good. Potentiometer tracks and contacts looked good as well, no unique wear.
PROBLEM:
Since already there, checked resistance directly on the motor contacts, got between 28 and 35 Ohms while turning the rotor (should be around 1 Ohm or less). Removed the two screws and pulled the motor out, found significant carbon buildup on Commutator, brushes still had plenty of material.
FIX:
Cleaned/scraped/sanded/sprayed Commutator as much as possible (access is a bit challenging), got to shiny copper (even if not too smooth), got resistance down to just over 1 Ohm at the motor.
Note: On my particular model (2006 S40 T5), the motor resistance can be checked between the throttle body's Pins 1 and 4 (a bit hard to access while installed on the car; as an alternative, use Pins 74 and 75 on the larger connector of the harness that attaches to the ECM at the front of the air box; look for single-digit Ohms, preferably less than 2 Ohms).
Reassembled, installed Throttle Body, not a single code after 100+ miles (before that, codes were usually popping up within a few miles) 🙂.
PROBABLE FAILURE PATH:
Due to gradual carbon buildup on the throttle body's electrical motor Commutator, the motor eventually lacks sufficient power to counter return spring force and intermittently lets the throttle body Plate move towards idle. This causes unexpected pressure difference between sensors within the intake path (P2281). These short random failures (less air than what the ECM commands) catch a particular cylinder off fuel/air balance, eventually causing misfire to all cylinders. A prolonged failure would be registered as rich mixture (P2188 and P0170).
Information in your post is priceless! Saved. Thank you!
@@samgrieg A few thousand miles later, absolutely no issues 😀. Glad someone else could use the info.
Finally a good explanation. Question for anyone who think they know. I was getting some strange throttle position readings on my scan. I have an Accelerator Position Sensor and this Electronic Throttle. When I checked, the butterfly is open all, when I try to close it manually, it opens back under spring tension. When I start, it still stays open. I opened it up, cleaned it out although it was pretty clean already, tested the motor, it works. Im debating whether it is the throttle, or the sensor on the pedal. Thanks..
This is a great video and explains clearly what is the root problem of a worn out throttle body malfunction.
Check this first instead of buying endless cans of cleaner spray. Especially if the car has done a lot of miles
This video is excellent!!! I love the no bullshit approach and it has all the info I need to look at my throttle body and what to look for and where to look on my VW Polo Match 9N. Good work guys!
See my main comment for some more info and tips
All Renault Clio II drivers should like this video...all throttle bodies of this car fail at 80 to 100k klm... So so common...renault Clio II throttle body is almost identical to this one. Managed to open and save mine for about 10thousand klm but then a tooth on the gearing broke completely.. There is Bosch potentiometer in the Clio throttle body which never fails... What brakes is the plastic gearing. So payed 150euros for a new aftermarket throttle body(original costs about 500euros if you find it).. Thank you for the useful video. LIKE
Amazing video with clear explanations! Very helpful! One very interesting thing that I got to know from this video was the small oscillatory motion of the potentiometer's wiper arm against the resistive tracks which leads to some wear.
Great video! Thank you. These suckers are expensive as hell, and now I know why/how these get re manufactured, new gears, , gasket, clean it up and resell for $150.....Bought one of these aftermarket, and having similar issues just 6 months later. I am cracking open to see if I can fix now.
Excellent presentation -- the most helpful I've found about the throttle body.
I've been having issues with my car and I suspect it's the thottlebody with the integrated Throttle Position Sensor. It's nice to see a tear down of it. Nice video.
Great explanation and excellent up close video pix of the worn parts. You are the Man!
Great video, explains some of the intermittent issues I was having with my Bosch Throttlebody on Audi Rs5, only 80,000 and 10 years, but occasionally goes into limp mode with everything connected to the PCM flashing up (Stability, Sport Diff) which of course cascades to the TPMS and Handbrake. Not cheap to replace 2 thats for sure :)
Awesome vid. I have an '05 Tundra V6 w/ 140k miles. Recently cleaned my throttle body (yes, with it disconnected from the vehicle), put it all back together and it threw a p2103 code. The plate covering all of the electronics and gears on my model is riveted in so I wasn't able to take it off and check things out. I'm going to do a resistance check on it tomorrow and if it's out of the specified range maybe I'll just drill out those rivets and have a look. Liked and subbed!
You the best Throttle body expert around bro :)
Thanks
I also want to say thank you for your video. I forwarded your video to the mechanic working on my car, given I currently am experiencing this issue. I have to go with the simple acknowledgement of plastic parts tied to electronic sensor is a lousy design.
I get the feeling the plastic parts (usually a nylon type plastic) are used due to weight \ mass and the speed & percision that that particular gear needs to be moved at. Aluminum would still be heavier than plastic...and of course Titanium would put up production costs.
Thanks. where to buy parts to fix those? Also thank you for showing that it is ok to move the plate after disconnect.
looks like maybe you fell off the youtube sphere but man, this is an excellent explanation. Thank you so much for taking the time and honestly saving me the time of opening mine up to try to rebuild it. is so much more likely that the gears shelled each other out than that the traces or solder joint failed.(as was my previous hope) Awesome vid and would be thrilled if you came back to it.
Great job in explaining just what is inside the TB gear head and how it all works.
Excellent video with crystal clear explanation and visuals, thank you!
Very helpful and great explanation of all possible failures!
11.4.17. A superb tutorial! ......Concise explanation!🎯
O
Thanks god someone made this video !!!!! Now I understand ! There no way that someone can rebuild this! Thanks you again !
Oh my gosh this was so helpful now i know why my Sti is stuck in limp mode with an aftermarket TB i tried to get away with using a rivet style body and a clip on style tps cover but ill probably just order a new stock one since its probably worn... I always could hear the connector buzzing (i got a new connector plug on the way too)
icemaker gears work somewhat the same way and what would happen is the sweepers would eventually scrape copper off of the gear wheel, and bridge the circuit across the gaps.
Excellent video, Very well explained. I have a 2008 Mazda 6 (Brisbane Australia) which has suffered a flat battery overnight. I believe caused by the Throttle body being energised even after car switched off overnight. I could hear the bzzing this morning when I checked under the bonnet. Confirmed when I disconnected the cable to the TB. My question is Can I easily replace the motor assembly of the TB, and how do I do it?, or do I just go an buy a whole new TB? Nick
Thanks allot! Most throttle bodies are not serviceable and will require a complete replacement. Stay safe with those wildfires.
Super duper good explanation and quality video with great detail
is it possible to replace the gear with metal material?
Loved it! Great way to see the inside of a throttle body
Cheers
So informative. Having my 2015 F150 throw this code while on the highway and going into limp mode sucked
Just had a bunch throttle body codes for my 2005 mustang. The magnets glued to the case of the motor had loosened up and jammed up the motor. I glued them back in to fix it while I wait for a new throttle body.
Great little video. Hopefully helps me solve issues with my 2006 Alfa 156!
Took me back to my MV-Engineering days in college. Many thanks!
Fantastic. Very educational. Congratulations on the great work. Thanks for sharing knowledge.
Thankyou
@@SkyhookStudios can the flap still work fine but not communicating with the computer so no revs. I'm just wondering if somthing like this is possible 👍👍
@@SkyhookStudios thoes gasket are bigger you have to push it down
Exact same TB as the Alfa Romeo 156 2.0 TS, had just cleaned and opened it up today
I've got an '06 XC70 that's throwing MAF codes, fuel trim, O2. New MAF, new plugs, cleaned the TB. No codes for TB, but thinking this could be the problem, since I didn't check the gears and POT when I had it off. Going to check PCV too
Great information on video so much is appreciated thank you ...
but I do not own a Volvo I own a 2012 Jaguar XF 5.0 and my throttle body where you took it apart at is making a buzzing humming noise and just need a answer for my question do I need to replace the whole throttle body or can I replace that 1 part where you took it apart at ???
Most throttle bodies are not designed to be internally repaired. Replacement is the go to. This video simply shows common failure points.
wooooooooooow, got a p1220 error code; am gonna rip open my throttle position sensor with confidence now. great video
Very nice voice to listen too. This was very well explained 👌
Thanks you for the quality video! Great tips for diy! I learned something new here!
Great video I just have one thing thats bugging me about this. Why does it need to have that second smaller spring that works in opposite way that keeps the throttle from closing completely?
Acts as a fail safe. If the throttle fails and would shut completely, the car would stall
Of course, thanks.
Does the throttle always show codes? I have C30 2.0L and it has issues starting, it turns over, has spark, but it is not getting any fuel. The fuel pressure is good, the issues is that injectors are not getting any signal to engage. But sometimes it starts fine and will drive for hours without any issues. Do you have any suggestions? I am at a total lost
I may have this gear wear problem on my 76,000 mile Corvette Z06. The engine jerks a bit at low throttle. If there is play in the throttle body gears, I could see how the butterfly may be flopping around a little.
I tried cleaning this on my 2011 fusion and the wrench light came on. Sputtering and crappy gas mileage . I'm sure now that I saw this video that it probably needs replacing. Another thing....do you have to recalibrate it when you put on a new one or clean it for that matter ?
very well explained video. do you need to replace the whole throttle assembly? or you could only change the worn out gears?
Whole thing.
Thanks for the information,you made it very simple ,from where did you source the new toothed plastic gear ?
I didn't. You will need to order a new throttle body. This video just shows how they fail.
Sir, Excellent video. Very well explained.
Thanks
Excellently explained. Bravo....
Love the video great info 👌👌👌good to see someone knows what they are talking about
As you mentioned, that Bosch Throttle Body is very similar to my Mercedes. Believe Porsche also uses a similar one. The difference is found on the Bosch Part number.
Moving to the curve ball. I'm experiencing issues with the Throttle Body and had the same logic. Saw how to clean the flap and the electronic part.
Contacts on the potentiometer seem to have regular wear. However, I never saw how a known-good should look like. Definitely not gunked up. Just black dust.
The tabs on the flap gear were clean and intact, as well as having all the teeth. The teeth for the driving gear (between DC motor and Flap gear) are intact.
Cleaned the contact on the cover (dusty dry), even for the DC motor.
Can it be the DC motor or one of its components? (Didn't remove it because I don't have a spare one)
Can it just be the plug on the wiring loom?
I have a problem, because the electronic throttle body is burning the relays, I have already checked the wiring and it is in good condition, I have changed several relays and they continue to burn, what is the cause of this?
What kind of grease if necessary must to be applied to the gears after cleaning with electronic cleaner ?
Thanks in advance
BimmerN53
I would use a very small amount of petroleum grease. If you apply too much, it might bind and cause other problems.
Thank you, but we did not see how to open the black plastic cover of the electric throttle because the way to open and close it again is difficult
I have a really bad issue with throttle body. Those 4 sensor pin is damage and my accelerate is not working at all. Can you please help out?
This remind of VHS mechanism, repaired so many of them in the early 90's.
Sir, appreciate for making things clear. When I check my car's electronic throttle body with Forscan, desired and actual throttle position does not match. There is 2.3° difference at idle and 5°-7° difference on load. Desired position 2.5°, actual position 0.3 at idle. Would it be sth to do with these plastic craps?
One of the greatest videos I have seen about an electronic throttle body. 2 questions, is that a BOSCH TP? How many KM/miles on it that there is so much wear on the plastic threads !?
Excellent brake down cleared up a lot.
Thank you that video helped me a lot I do have one question when I put mine back together I can hear that metal gear loose in there is it supposed to have a lock nut or something on it
Thanks for the " edgeumacation" My Dodge Journey is doing the same systems, but no codes for the throttle system. The only code is for the camshaft sensor. Replaced the sensor. Problems did not go away. Im thinking about replacing the throttle body anyway and take the gamble that, that is the problem. The $200 + price tag gives me hesitation
Yep don't move the butterfly valve. I did and now the idle is all screwed up. Gonna try a relearn and if that fails then remove and inspect the guts. I can see how putting back pressure on those plastic gears can screw things up.
I did that too - i wish i saw this video before. Now have code. Not sure if it's sensor to be calibrated or it is damaged
How is actuator control motor setting done in drive by wire throttle body to get a desired iddle speed? Could you show me?, illustration with a video would be better.
Hi, I have the same set up on my jet rib it's 2cyl turbo, the throttle body work fine with engine off but as soon as engine is running it doesn't respond to the throttle or rev up.? It's a new throttle potentiometer, where does the signal go from the throttle before it gets to the throttle body? Is there another sensor that could affect it like air flow S or the ecu would control it?
Wow! Just an awesome tutorial. Can this go bad intermittently without throwing a code? My 2007 audi a4 intermittently goes into limp mode when slowly accelerating from a stop light. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
They can but it's pretty rare. Throttle bodies for VAG vehicles are known for failure. I'm not saying yours is bad but it's highly likely.
Excellent Tutorial. Well done and thank you.
Excellent video. I have an 05 Tundra, could this also cause a hesitation in throttle response from 2,000-3,000 RPM while accelerating?
Can also be the air sensor or a bad electrical connection.
How you opened the cover those clips don’t come out
??
The old mechanical cable type were cheaper, simpler and far more reliable.
True I replaced one not even a year and it's already failing obd code p0123
100% agree!!!!!
Plastic junk now.
Great video with good in-depth explanation, could issues with the throttle body cause problems with a delay in 2007 V70 auto gear shifting or harsh kicking when shifting from park to reverse?...
How do you take off the black cap from the metal?
YOU NAILED IT!
I have a VW throwing codes for throttle actuator control and won’t let it start. Do you know what the likely cause of that is, or do I just need to start digging into it?
Can a failing throttle body cause misfires and a p0506 code? I have never gotten a throttle body code. I drive a 13 odyssey. Thanks.
Would a stripped tooth cause it to make a clunking stripping sound when I turn the engine off?
Great video. Is this a problem with the Audi A4 b8 models?
What are advantages of electronic throttle body over old good wire throttle?
Thanks for the explanation. My car is 2012 Jetta and draws P0122 code and I suspect the
throttle body. So I pull it out from the car. If I shake the throttle
body, I can hear some clicking noise inside the throttle body. Does it
mean my throttle body is not normal? Before ordering a new one, I want
to get your advice. Thanks.
Same car and code for me. Did you get it fixed? If so, what was the issue?
Thank you sir for this video. It's really clear now what the problem of my S80 1999 is. It goes limp and then when I remove the battery cable, it runs again.
I AM really looking forward in driving my ’78 Caprice with no computers.
Hi I have hesitation and jerky acceleration, not able to rev all the way, can this also cause RPM to get stuck?? When that happens I flip the gas pedal and it gets unstuck.
Thanks for the video you have explained so many things but please can you show us it's wiring diagram
I got a 2014 s60 that is throwing P1573 code and would not stay idle it just shuts down, do you have any Idea what could be the issue?
Excellent informative video, thanks👍
Great explanation I learned a lot thanks !!
Have an issue with mine in my 2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo 3.7L. I'm gonna replace the throttle body. I heard I'll have to do a relearn procedure. And I also heard I don't have to on the wk's. What do you think I should do?
How would you replace the motor if that was the problem?
vw polo still goes into limp mode, with EPC light on, eventhough Throttle body is fairly new, Map sensor fairly new(both calibrated at the time of replacement), no obvious intake leaks. Any thoughts? TQ
Will the 2016 Ford ecoboost 3cyl have the same throttle body?
No but same concept.
So what about the sealing? Can I replace the sealing in the throttle body 48CPD1 (OPEL, SAAB, FIAT, ALFA ROMEO) to avoid leaking oil inside the body?
This just helped me fix a Verizon generator in indiana thank you brotha haha
In fully closed position does the throttle still allow some air to flow ?
Hi, how to find those plastic gears part number?
same thing on audi/volkswagen
Great video, I am wondering why throttle body is whinning when I put key on ignition, even engine is not running. Anything wrong? What makes that annoying sound.
Sometimes they whin when you first turn the key on to do a self learn. If it's persistent then it might be a sign of an issue. If the TB can't find the position it wants it will sometimes try persistently.
Would a failing throttle body have a whirling noise on acceleration?
now this is how you explain issues
Hi. Please could you clarify my doubt? Is the butterfly valve is partially open at all the times to allow engine idle running? I mean the butterfly valve is designed such that there will be a slight gap to one semi circle?? Or will properly lock the circle not allowing any air when engine is not running?? Please clarify.. I found my vehicle's butterfly valve is not completely closing the valve to lock the air passage...
At rest, car off or if unplugged, there is a small gap. It is a fail safe to allow a high idle feature if the throttle body fails.
How to prevent this? Easy: install a catch can. Result? No more oil on the intake
wow, thanks for this info! greatly appreciated
So what we need to do is really work our pedals while driving to prolong our potentiometers. Got it thanks.
I also cannot believe Bosch use plastic gears!