Ford Vehicles: Electronic Throttle Body Calibration Procedure
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 29 ก.ย. 2024
- Here is the jumper leads I used in the video, for the price they are worth it to do it right, you can buy them here-
www.amazon.com/...
If you need to clean your ETB follow this procedure-
• How to Clean an Electr...
In this video we go over why you must learn the throttle body and how to do it properly. - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
Cannot thank you enough for this video!! My truck (expedition) was running so badly I thought the alternator was going out. Tested that and it was fine. You saved our family trip vehicle, thus our precious memories, and improved our quality of life as a result! Thank you again!!!
Thanks, Brian, for the advice on how to relearn the throttle body in my 17 f150. You are worth the 6 hour drive to your shop. Keep up the good work.
Excellent post and intel. My 05 F150 has never run better. Replaced TPS and cleaned throttle body and Mass airflow sensor. Followed that up with the reset and calibration.
March 2021
I got a bet goin on with my boys. I'm taking your word here😊❤
Realizing this video is old AF, I just got my son a 2010 focus and we are upgrading the intake and exhaust. The plan is to flash it eventually or get a custom tune but this will help immensely in the interim to at least accept new upgrades quicker.
Just did this on my wife's 06 fusion. Dealer wanted $700.00 to change it out. I did it for $200.00 and about 45 minutes of time thanks to this video.
Man I really appreciate this channel and the insight it provides.
Nice
Life saver my man. Keep it up!
fixing my dads work transit and this saved my life
Great videos with great info , I know there must be ton of questions you are asked . But here is one more I have a 07 f150 4,6 that has a rough idle with no codes I have checked and there is good compression and have spark at all coils . I have cleaned the throttle body . Do you have any suggestions? Thanks in advance
Ok! Don't know if you're still checking comments, but let me throw a scenario at you. 2006 Navigator. Got a CEL, threw a P0506 code, low Idle Air control System RPM. Didn't have any other symptoms that we could tell other than the light! Decided to follow your ETB cleaning procedure, so I did that (using TB cleaner) as well as replace the throttle position sensor while I was in there. Put it all together, and followed this video for the throttle body to relearn. This time, I start the car after clearing the PCM, and it's sputtering like crazy while it idles. RPMs are up and down all over. Engine is in failsafe mode, throwing a few codes related to the idle control areas.
Is there somewhere I potentially went wrong? Where should I start troubleshooting? I redid the "relearn" procedure just now, and it's currently idling rough, trying to get it up to operating temp. But the idle smoothness doesn't seem to be getting any better.
thank you thank you thank you my man... you have been an excellent source of help.... i am handy with working on my own vehicles and watching your step by step videos makes my job so much easier .... keep up the great videos you are one of the best that out there today....
BTW, There were no codes prior to the PCM reset. I just ordered the thinkcar THINKOBD 100 OBD2 Scanner on Amazon for $33.89. Hopefully, I can diagnose/fix this Failsafe/Limp Mode issue when it comes tomorrow.
WTF!
I been having a problem woth dlow acceleration and loss of power for almost 1 year but after watching this video i remembered i had taken off my throttle body once or twice for cleaning, so i thought to myself hmmm this might be my issue since i tampered with it, but anyways i just turn my key to the on position and press the gas slowing and released it slowly and so on and it actually freaking worked im so happy
can you elaborate on the shift points? Im kinda confused. I know an automatic still shifts, would i drive 10mph for a lil then 20mph while slowing working up my speed? im just learning about my wifes ford and will be replacing her etb tomorrow. As im 22 and ive only played games and worked on electronics 😂. i dont know anything. I did however clean her existing etb a couple weeks ago but that didnt last long before the code P2135 came back.
I did everything right after cleaning the throttle body and maf sensor , new air filter , plugs and wires and fuel rail pressure sensor. Still has a low rough idle. Any ideas? Plugs are bosch double platinum pre gapped
Hey man, I have low idle problems, do you think I should give this a try?
Does that apply only for fords ? I'm about to clean mine tomorow and I was told that i should just get out of town driving the car normaly and then i should drive it about 10km at 3000rpm.Then I shut down the car,turn it back on and it should be all fine ?
This is only Fords yes.
may I please ask you a question sir? I have a 97 cobra 4.6 4v dohc car and I was going to change my tps, is there anything in particular i need to do as far as physical adjustment like the fox bodys have to as far as setting it to below 1 ohm or letting the car re-learn the cars throttle position at idle, if so for how long and what about driving there after to teach the new tps? or are they more advanced and just plug and play in my vehicle ? what do i need to do in order to replace my tps? thank you sir
Good evening sir. 04 f150. Brand new motor. 😑 Anyway, i recently bought a 80mm bbk throttle body. Installed it and now my tuck runs rough at low idle. Could anything else cause this minus the re learning process? Thank you for your time.
I've just removed and cleaned my throttle body on a 2007 ford focus st due to a fault, I still have the fault would I need to do this to remove the fault??? Also my car has been remapped for more power would the battery trick effect my remapping??
So I have a new throttle body and sensors that go on it. I have no throttle response at all. My car will move in gears but I can floor it and it does nothing. What could this be? I've reset computer as well
recently I had my 05 ford 500 stall out and "engine fail safe mode" appeared. started the car again and it was fine. My car would always say "low oil pressure" after a while of driving it. Now yesterday the same engine failsafe mode appeared when I started the car and I had no response in the gas pedal and it was just spuddering. I tried what you have shown in the video and it started normal but eventually when back to engine failsafe. does this mean I need a new throttle body?
I know this is a old video but will this help with the slight rough idle when in traffic. I have noticed that I can feel a slight rough idle when the brake is applied waiting in traffic, if I apply the Emergency brake and let off the brake pedal the idle goes up a couple hundred rpm and is a smoother idle. I have a 2014 F150 5.0L
inspect the check valve on the brake booster. if you are having idle issues that you directly associate with pressing the brake, then your issue is related to vaccum on the booster. reseting your electronic throttle body will not help.
can i use normal jumper cables for deleting the pcm?
Barry11832 just touch the negative terminal to the positive.
How long to relearn shift points?
does this procedure work for 2013 Ford and up ?
All Fords any year with an ETB system.
Update on my throttle body install. My local ford dealership wanted $800 for parts and labor. I timed myself from the moment my hand opened the tool box and I did the swap in 17 minutes. I wanted to knock it out as fast as possible just to prove a point. After following the re learn procedure it's running like new again. Thanks again for the valuable videos!
Wow, Ford's labour rate is atrocious! I just took my F150 in for a 'limp-mode' issue, and they just reprogrammed the PCM, and charged me just under $500.00 and since getting it back, it's done it three times! I'm going to take the plunge, and change out the throttle body on my '16 3.5 eb, and see if that does the trick. I'll follow what Chris has shown us here, and hopefully all goes well. It seems the hardest part, is getting the red electric connection off!
I'm glad there are people like you on youtube sharing information.
Hey just imagine the mass of information you could obtain from other sites for a small fee.
If this type of info is free imagine what you'd get for paying
Porkkx Yjjb
I can't thank you enough. I'd just changed my 2008 Ford Fusion's battery and had no idea what was going on when my car started limping along. I'm poor and can't really afford a tow or auto repair bill, but a series of google searches led me here, and what you said worked! Thank you!!
I hate ford and all I did was disconnect and reconnect the battery now I’m here. Definitely thanks to him for making this video
Ok I just completed this entire procedure and it worked perfectly. Idles great and I think it improved my shift points too!! I am not a mechanic at all and this was not hard.
I admire people who know what they are doing.
I couldn't find the link you mentioned mate.
This is covered in the OM, too: 1. With the vehicle at a complete stop, set the parking brake.
2. Put the gearshift in P (Park), turn off all accessories and start the
engine.
3. Run the engine until it reaches normal operating temperature.
4. Allow the engine to idle for at least one minute.
5. Turn the A/C on and allow the engine to idle for at least one minute.
6. Release the parking brake. With your foot on the brake pedal and with
the A/C on, put the vehicle in D (Drive) and allow the engine to idle for
at least one minute.
7. Drive the vehicle to complete the relearning process.
• The vehicle may need to be driven 10 miles (16 km) or more to
relearn the idle and fuel trim strategy.
• If you do not allow the engine to relearn its idle trim, the idle
quality of your vehicle may be adversely affected until the idle
trim is eventually relearned.
When the battery is disconnected or a new battery installed, the
transmission must relearn its adaptive strategy. As a result of this, the
transmission may shift firmly. This operation is considered normal and
will not affect function or durability of the transmission. Over time the
adaptive learning process will fully update transmission operation to its
optimum shift feel.
Are you serious wtf. Way too much
@@ItsMe-wm4mcrofl this is nothing. I have a 2012 Chevrolet 1500 WT. It's far more complicated and dangerous to do. It's ridiculous.
What car is this?
@@from9539 Per the video - 9 years ago - it's 'Ford Vehicles'. The video looks like a 4-cylinder Escape from 2008-2012?? Look in your owner's manual under Maintenance and Specifications, under the Battery section (or search the digital version for 'idle and fuel trim strategy'. My specific info is from a 2009 Mercury Mariner (Ford Escape clone).
@@ItsMe-wm4mcStop cursing! you're so grotesque. S 6:56 how some respect to other people even though you don't respect yourself.
I have to consider you the top man for Ford products on TH-cam or anywhere else for that matters. Your videos are a, "must go to", for any kind of issues with newer Ford vehicle issues. By "newer" I mean since electronics and modern technology has entered the automotive picture. I sure am glad that I'm a Ford man. You've made my life a lot easier, thanks for that, plus, you've saved this old retiree a ton of bucks, too.
Ford for life!
I know right… when i need to replace something on my 05 f150,, i watch this guy.
DITTO 🎯✌️
He is though #1
He knows ford more than ford know ford
And I too consider him "The go to Guy"...! His. Videos are straight and to the point. There's no unnecessary mumbo jumbo, smoke and mirrors crap. I've learned so much about my Ford vehicles in the past year, than I have in the past 35 or more years of working on them, myself.
hi,
I have bought a 2007 Lincoln Navigator 1,5 year´s ago, which I don´t know 100% the history of the vehicle. With a lot of help by your videos ( thank you therefore) I was able to fix some upcoming issue with my Navigator, because here in Germany they exist very few Ford dealers/ mechanic´s which are able or interested to help on non domestic vehicles and you have to go long distance in order to get an US-Ford correct repaired. (of course for crazy high prices)
During the repair´s I did in the past and some other reasons I have to disconnect the battery couple of times, do you recommend to do the Throttle Body Learn Procedure on my SUV as well ??
PS. please keep going on with your videos all around US-Ford maintenance / repair,
without your experienced help , it would be extremely difficult here to get this kind of help on US-Ford in Germany
thx
Igor
Lincoln for life.
Took off my throttle body to clean it on my 2007 500, I put it back on & got the engine light and car was having acceleration issues. Tried this & its running like new now. I can't thank you enough.
I got the same car, it accelerates when i turn the steering wheel, do you think this procedure can fix it?
If you disconnect the throttle body electrical connecter with the battery connected the engine computer senses a fault and sets a code on some vehicles , It will always set a code if you turn the key on without the Throttle body connected as it try's and self test its proper movement and response every time and does not get the expected response.
Lamar Alexander
What problem were you having with your 2007 500 that led you to think it was the throttle body? Asking because my 500 is cutting off after it warms up.
Thank you for saving my wife and I money may the lord Jesus bless you
Finding this video 4 years later, but I've got an 06 Explorer that i had to change the alternator on recently. After the weekend alternator swap it idles terribly and throws codes for my PCV, EGR, etc. Been fucking with her for days with no progress, I'm gonna give this a shot and pray it works.
Update: Didn't work for me, sadly. Truck actually shut off on me when I put it back in park after taking a test drive.
Update 2: It was a damn vacuum leak. I swear vacuum leaks are gonna be the death of me, bro. Good video though, will definitely keep it saved for future use -- I'll need it!
I performed this procedure on my 2010 Mercury Milan, and it worked GREAT !!! Just like you said; can't thank you enough you saved me hundreds $$$ in mechanic cost. Thank you, thank you, thank you !!!
Did u clean the throttle body too? or simply do the reset?
I have a 2012 ford fusion SE with no codes but running ok. How would I know if I have a bad throttle body or sensor?
Just used this sequence after removing and cleaning TB from a 2012 Ford Escape 2.5L. Car had very rough idle at cold start and would shake and rattle like a son of a gun at start up until at normal operating temp. Cleaned the TB and followed your directions on the TB recalibration. Shaking and hard start completely gone and runs like the day it was driven off the lot. Thank you.
How do you get it to learn on a 2010 fusion hybrid? The engine keeps going into electric mode, won't idle for 10+ minutes.
I just to say thank you so much you video help my husband when change the new throttle body in the ford dealer the want to charge $ 1500 with this video we just spend $220 thanks again we saved a lot of money
Throw the old one through the crooks window
Thank you! I spent days trying to figure out why my friend's 5.4l 3v F150 kept stalling after changing the crankshaft sensor and spark plugs. The job itself was a nightmare because one of the plugs broke above the threads and refused to come out with an easyout. And worse, the first easyout I tried was too small and pushed all the porcelain out of the tip into the cylinder (and got stuck). The first easyout was 3/8ths, which would not go through the hex portion which had broken off, but under that it gets bigger and a 1/2" is needed. I struggled for a day trying to get the easyout out, but couldn't reach it with anything that would grip it enough to pull it out. I finally made a collet from an 8" long 5/8ths bolt. I drilled a hole 2 inches deep, and about 50 thousandths smaller than the diameter of the easyout through the hex end of the bolt. I then cut a cross into the bolt, all the way down to the base of the hole I drilled, and cut the hex portion off. I took 2 3" pieces of 3/4" steel tubing from Home Depot, cut from a 3' piece. The inside diameter was 5/8ths and it fit perfectly over the bolt. I tapped the bolt over the easyout and slipped the 2 pieces of tubing over it. I put a big washer on and ran a nut down it. I used 2 other nuts locked together at the top so I could hold it from turning without damaging the threads. The lower nut forced the tubing down and locked the bolt to the easyout just like a collet holds a drill bit. Once it was far enough down, I took it apart, removed the top piece of tubing, and slipped a 4" length of 1" pipe over it. Again I applied a washer, a nut, and 2 more nuts locked together at the top to hold it from spinning. I then turned the lower nut about 1 turn and the easyout came out with the tip stuck in it. This was the point where I realized that all the porcelain from the tip was in the cylinder. My homemade tool was used again when I broke the second easyout. I ultimately ended up using the guide from the tip removal tool and drilling it out with a 9/16ths bit. I put one of the broken tips in and gave it a few taps to seat it, and that kept the metal shavings from going into the cylinder. I went very slow, and checked about every 1/8th of an inch, to see how much more I needed to drill. It went so perfectly that I never even touched the original threads and the bit pulled the plug threads out of the head threads as it went. I then ran an M16x1.5 tap through (I again found a use for my homemade collet) just to make sure the threads were clean enough to take a new plug. I spent about 3 hours trying to fish the porcelain out, and ultimately found that I was going to have to crush it and blow it out. I crushed it with a piece of 1/4" all thread which I had ground the threads off. This was done blind, and took hours. I basically just got it to where I knew it was and could set the camera on it, then followed the same angle with the all thread. I could tell when I was on it, but it kept slipping. Finally, I got on it good and crushed it by tapping it with a hammer. I blew it all out, and have been trying to get it to run for the past 3 days. I really have been thinking I missed some porcelain and damaged a valve, when all along it just needed to relearn it's base idle. It purrs like a kitten now. I should also point out that I cleaned the MAF sensor and throttle body before beginning the relearn process.
Это огромная работа! Ты крутой Мастер!!!
@@vladimirsidorov1493 Спасибо!
thank you. ..I changed it and relearn it. took out for a ride and my gooodnesssssss a miracle. .... thank you thank you so so so so much. ....from ms.d
You are the reason a daily driving a 160k mile 3.0 fusion doesn't scare me, with your videos we will make it through anything! thanks for saving me again!!
You should never be scared I ran my 3.0 fusion with 230,000 miles completely out of oil 15 times before the motor locked up lol they are tanks
@@southernracing2468 hahaha
Good regular maintenance esp fluids and ur fine Ford will go 250k mis.
@@southernracing2468 that's diesel man!👊 Bad ass. Ford EcoBoost for life.
@@southernracing2468 Thats really their only Achilles heel, leaky valve cover and oil pan gasket. Honestly the pan gasket doesn't look hard to change. It just looks like it might require snapping a few exhaust bolts getting the manifold pipe out of the way.
The jumper..how minutes????
10 min ideally.
You are awesome , your precision in explaining how to tackle task gives me confidence that I can do the job. Many, many thanks!!! 👏🏻
Can you come to my house and show me for tutorial 😅😅 thanks for sharing your knowledge
All fun and games until someone loses a finger. I'll have nightmares tonight about an ETB chopping off my finger...
Would this work on a 2015 mustang GT with a wrench light code?
You're the best Ford guy on TH-cam!
By far...
Yep! No doubt!
Indeed, I second that!
But, but, but what about scotty Kilmer lol 🤣
Just joshin ya lol
P⁰⁰
I did all this with new tb, I have spark and fuel still crank no start. Any videos on fixing the issue?
Just want to say a Special THANK YOU for your videos!!! You have saved me THOUSANDS of dollars from "service " costs. Can't say my back and neck benefitted too much though at my 60 year young age, but your videos even make those feel better when I am recovering after working on my ( 2004 F150 Lariate ) truck thinking of how much money YOU saved me!! Again THANKS A MILLION!!! By the way, your an excellent teacher and instructor and your presentations are always well done, too!!! MERRY CHRISTMAS!!
Thank you, your the best Ford machanic on you tube ever 👍
Thank you so much for this video! I let my van run for 15 minutes idling (after doing what you said with the battery), and then another 10 minutes driving with the air condition on. This seemed to help it relearn and return back to its correct idling. Your knowledge is great and appreciated.
PERFECT! I installed a new throttle body after my Ford Fusion was going limp mode with a throttle body failure code. I kept getting the error and code with the new throttle body, followed your procedure here, and now it works just fine! thanks so much! this is the kind of thing I love about TH-cam!
Question, I have a 2012 fusion that's going into limp mode as well it keeps turning on the orange wrench light(throttle control/transmission light) after about 10 miles of driving. It's shifting very oddly and hard sometimes. Did you have the same issue?
@@dripdrap1353 yes it would randomly go on limp mode and not shift. Would fix it self out if I turn it off and on. Don’t buy a cheap throttle body from eBay as it gave me the same issue, I was able to fix it buying a oem part from the dealer
@@dripdrap1353 make sure you run a diagnostic I believe you’ll get a code that relates to the throttle body
FordTechMakuloco--After spending $736.00 at my local shop to get my air conditioning working again, I came home and started to get dash lights coming on. First, the check engine light came on, followed by the wrench light. I had a scanner tool, hooked it up and got two error codes. The most severe was the one causing the wrench light to light up and that was the P061B code. I watched your video, made my own jumpers and did exactly what you told us to do and it worked like a charm! I had to subscribe! Thank you so much sir! You da man!
This helped fix my 2009 throttle body, thanks!
I just plugged my new throttle body in, cleared the trouble codes with my scanner, and drove it like I normally do. It runs just as well as it always has.
Then why are you watching this video?
J M 😂
I just cleaned a very dirty throttle body and MAF and it runs great without doing this...might still do it though.
Theres a reason this has 2.1 Million views. Thanx!!!!
I own an a 1999 F250 SD with a 5.4. I have 2 valve head engine, is this a problem on all 5.4s or just 3 valve engines ?
Engines must've had a dust/dirt problem before 2012 or something. My car has no issues with battery corrosion and engine bay, cylinders are clean as can be. Throttle body was pretty clean too, even on back side. I have a 14 mustang GT.
It worked!!! 😮Thank you!! My 2016 Fiesta thanks you too!!👍😁
Eres el mejor especialista en ford que he visto en TH-cam gracias por la información que compartes
Do you leave the positive battery connected? Can this be done with jumper cables?
Yes just disconnect the negative.
I was wondering the same as far as using a regular jumper cable
Thanks for this info. I had disconnected the negative battery cable to clear a check engine code, then the idle began acting very strange. Using this video info and your "cleaning the throttle body" video, all is well again in "Mustang-land". My daughter (it's her car) will be thrilled.Thanks again!
first thanks again thanks so much. OK. ..I got the part for 170. core 30. did it myself less than 20 minutes to change. I also stuck my hand in the part that the body is connected to and wiped out all that black stuff....did relearn just as you said. .I'm riding high a mighty. no more driving the left lane. no more embarrassing shut offs. ...partgeeks....
It seems our 2011 Explorer timing chain is indexed one tooth off. Getting error codes and idle is very rough.
Thought it was just needing to be reprogramed from sitting for months with the battery disconnected while the engine was out for rebuild.
Went through the recalibration process again last night and it idles fine 700 rpm nice and smooth, while the reprogram test is performed and test drive is nice and smooth as well no error codes no check engine light ect., idle is smooth.
Once the engine is shut off and restarted rough idle returns, check engine light comes on getting cam fault codes stating timing is off but the way it idles is really rough it swings from 1000 rpm down to 300 rpm and back up that alone would throw the cam phasers out of sync causing the codes. So is it a timing issue or throttle body failure to hold calibration?
Tes it is time for a timing job or worse.
I'll be tearing down to reset the timing end of the week. I used Cloyes 3.5 timing video to reassemble. All I can assume I missed one mark by one tooth. Appreciate your videos and help.
Ah yes the CLOYES kit is your problem. They are the worst.
Thanks for the terrific set of video procedures. I just picked up a 2011 Escape and it was shifting late and inconsistently. I cleaned the throttle body and did the reset you describe here. Now it's running more smoothly, and shifting properly! Thanks again.
I pray my issue is this only...I was told that something was wrong in the transmission
Man, thank you thank you for your videos. I followed your removal, clean and re-learn throttle-body and truck is not stalling when I come to stop, slow down to turn etc... I had blown a plug and removed air filter to change all plugs and repair. I guess from fooling with the plugs and giving extra power the throttle- body couldn’t keep up. Most people said I had to clean throttle body and replace idle sensor. But after cleaning and following your re-learn video ; she’s driving like a new truck; new pugs with dielectric grease on everything, clean air-filter, clean throttle-body. Awesome!! Thanks again. I’ll Send back that idle sensors to Amazon and save that 70 bucks😅😅
Dang i could have chopped my fingers off 😳😳😳
Still great info years later. one thing I picked up during the second viewing was starting with a cold engine. I almost hurried. Mine is a manual mazda 3 2.3. I am guessing the shift point subject will not be a factor. I am waiting for morning to have a cold engine Then I will perform this process. Hope to be singing your praises tomorrow Jan 9, 2024. all the best neal sw fla.
Thanks for the info! Not sure what would have happened had I not done this but I did it and it works great! Thanks so much for posting!!!
I have a 05 mustang v6 auto in limp mode.
Codes 2104, 2112. Throttel body acuturator. How would you fix this to get it out of limp?
Thanks,
Thanks, your videos are very helpful. I watched this one because I’m trying to figure out why a friend’s newly-acquired 4.6L 2004 Mountaineer’s throttle is waaaay too sensitive when you drive off from idle; it lunges ahead unless you really feather-foot it. Does it just need to reprogram or does this sound like a stepper-motor issue?
I disconnected the battery for a few 30 minutes and reconnected, then got a P0506 code on my '05 Navigator with the 5.4L 3V engine. Do you think I need to remove, clean the ETB, replace and relearn using this procedure?
Yes that would be my first step
@@FordTechMakuloco can I do this on a 2011 scion tc?
Could I do this on 2007 chevy suburban 1500 5.3 liter.
Wow…this video is 8 years old but ya know what…it really helped me today!!!! I had changed out some parts recently (EGR solenoid, o2 sensors, fuel filter, air filter), removed and installed the throttle body, and disconnected the battery several times. I couldn’t figure out why my gas mileage was suddenly so bad afterwards. I did this procedure and it completely fixed my gas mileage issue. Thank you!!!!
I replaced my tps and my truck started idling rough and shifting hard, this reset actually worked and stopped my truck from idling so high and now it shifts way smoother. THANK YOU!
Dude Thank you so much you saved me so much thank you now my escape is running great.
Thank you so much for your videos. They're very well structured, and presented in a manor that a beginner or a seasoned Mechanic can glean a ton of information from. You have saved me a ton of money too. Thanks again, take care, and stay safe Sir.
Thanks alot for this info. Man I was told how I messed up the throttle chamber by the way I cleaned it, when all I need was just to relearn the system. Great job sir.
Hey Mr. Makuloco, If your reading these things, I'd like to get your attention. I've followed you for some time, it seems your very generous with your knowledge. Ok...I have just finished up a complete timing job , 2010 Ford Expedition 5.4L 3V, 225,000 miles approximately. Followed your tutorials to the letter, everything went great! Except....I'm having problems on bank 1. Seems like by the time oil pressure gets there, being end of the line, there's maybe 1/3 of what I've got on bank 2. It's resulting in a P0012...and timing numbers that are all over the place. From -10 to 0 to 30 to 40 degrees. All dependent on the RPM...anything 800 or above, sounds, runs like a new engine. Below that...500, 600 RPM...crap idle and dies. Only when hot...cold start, runs perfectly, both banks, until the temp comes up. So, I know I have too much wear on the cam towers and caps....combined with bank 1 being the last stop, even my Melling High Volume can't cut it. Both banks have new cams, I'm using the 5W 30 weight as you suggest. Also, both banks are 100% new rollers and lifters. Phasers, chains, guides, tensioner all Ford OEM. From the Ford dealership. What I'm wondering is two fold...1. Is there any way to set the idle higher, 1k, on these 5.4 3V engines? A tuner maybe? 2. With a new head being over $1,000, might I be better to delete the VCT system all together. This will be another $700, but it's supposed to fix the problem for life. You see...I'm too deep to stop now! I respect your knowledge in these matters, and very much been it. Lastly...I want to say Thank You , you help so many...when you don't have to help any!! Your a good guy, and it comes through! BTW...any of you "part time mechanics " want to toss your two cents in.....A Big Thanks from Texas!!
THANKS MAN! your a life saver did this after installing a new throttle body and it worked
did it work
yes it did. i bought a new throttle body and did the relearn procure it hasnt stalled anymore while driving
Thank you so much ford guy I brought my 06 ford explorer EDDIE BAUER cylinder 4.0 into my mechanic he changed out the throttle body but my truck was not right after the repair but after seeing your video it completely changed my truck backbto normal and it's running great now thanks again 👍
Thanks for the videos. This was my 5th ETB (2013 F150, 3.5 EB, 403k miles, 2nd engine) and first one I did myself. Spent $221 for the ETB & gasket. Hardest part was get the dang wire harness off without breaking the tab.
Dang 403k is great. I got a 2014 f150 and my ETB fried out at 126k. What caused you to replace your 3.5 originally??I had a really sticky tab , sliced my hand getting it off but I heard blood offerings are good luck!
I have 2014 F 150 3.5 Eco. I talked to 3 different mechanics, Payed 1 $190 to diagnose the ETB. My symptoms were number 6 cylinder misfire ,rough shifting of transmission, going into idle mode, having to pull off road and turn off and back on to reset to continue driving til it did it again. With this video and one other I learned how to reprogram the CPU To learn the new ETB. My diagnosis mechanic wanted an additional $1300 to fix the problem. Because of these videos and DIY I completed the job successfully under a $100. Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
What about for a hybrid, like my '10 Escape? The engine doesn't idle upon start up since it's running on the DC drive motors. I just changed my TB out and went thru the initial part of the reset/relearn procedure then took her for a long test drive. Everything seems fine even without going thru the idle trim relearn. With a/c on in park, it will eventually switch to engine power and idle at about 1200-1300 rpm. Can't find the specs for warm idle speed on the hybrid, so not sure if this is correct.
This, I really need an answer for this and my 08 FEH.
good to know, thanks for making the video
Bless you, man. I've stubbornly been trying to get my Ford Explorer (4.0) to idle down and not die when I put it in gear for a month. I've changed parts, cleaned everything to no avail. Was about ready to go in to the transmission and unhook the sensor. I already poked holes in the cat converter....You're little trick with resetting the PCM fixed it in minutes. Thank you so much.
I did this procedure to my 2007 Mustang GT 70,000 miles (automatic transmission) and it made a huge improvement in everything he mentioned.
Could this cause it to go into trans fault?
You taught me a lot in this video. I was searching youtube for guidance on how to properly remove, clean and re-install the throttle body on my 2004 VW GTI VR6. The procedure is going to be different because it's a different vehicle from your Ford. However, you pointed out some basics that probably apply to all vehicles i.e. drain power from the solenoids and slowly allow the vehicle to go through the re-learning process. I appreciate the thoroughness of this video and that you made no assumptions about the viewer's level of experience. This is important because there are DIY mechanics like myself preparing to do this job for the first time. We want to avoid damaging our vehicles and do the work safely.
I'm guessing that you don't have more specific advice for how to do this job on my car, do you? One specific piece of advice I'm looking for is; once the throttle body is removed from the engine in preparation for cleaning, is it okay to move the throttle body in order to clean the area where the throttle plate seal shut against the throttle body? I'm unsure if this can damage the gears or if it's safe to do because power will be disconnected and drained.
I know this is an old comment, but I had an 04 Gti vr6 with a 6sp - man, that thing was sweet. Most fun car I ever owned.
@@JWestie85 Thanks for your comment. I always appreciate hearing from people who own or owned the same car. I agree, the car is fun to drive. It's still my daily driver. So few of them still on the road.
does this work for a 2009 mazda 3 sp25 since there pretty much fords?
Curious to know if this procedure is needed when I clean my throttle body on 2004 5.4 fx f150? thanks
Yes it is the quickest most accurate way to learn the throttle body.
Thanks for all your Ford videos. The " learning of the throttle body " saved the day for me !! No other vids covered that part . Good work ! Peace from California !
Great video, helped me out a lot. Installed new throttle body on a mk 6 fiesta and kept on stalling whenever I lifted off the throttle. This solved my problem in 20 mins. Thanks man.
Just changed throttle body on 2006 Mercury Montego THANKS to your video. Thanks for your help. Much appreciated. Also followed relearn procedure. Runs great but check engine light on. ??? Any ideas
+Agathe and Beauty Fid you clear it after the repair and it came back on?
I swear this was so helpful like you don’t know how glad I am that came across your video. Thanks a lot
Thank you so much for this video. The dealership in wanted $1000 to replace mine and AutoZone wanted $400 for a new one. With your help I got a used one and was able to replace it myself for $125. Can't thank you enough!
does this apply for just taking it off? I had to take it off to get the TPS off, the screws had loctite on them
+Mark Mulcahey If you replaced the TPS this procedure should be followed.
What a great information. I just cleaned My throttle body at 142,000 and reset the pcm and took it for a drive transmission shifts so much smoother. Thank you so much for sharing this information.
Can I use regular jumper cables instead of a jumper wire
Same question. Were you able to do so.
In a pinch, you can just turn on your headlights after you disconnect the negative battery terminal. Current will drain/ discharge any capacitors in the system.
@@scottb3637 I might have commented this a year ago but still some helpful advice I didn’t know so thx 👌