I couldn't find adequate words to describe your way of teaching and presenting through this video. The others should learn from this presentation. Well done and Thank You.
Thanks for taking the time to do this video. Although iv done timing belts for years I did have an issue with mine this time but watching this has sorted it......
My Octavia MK2 with BKD 140ps shredded its timing belt on the motorway. This video gave me the confidence to do mine. I adjusted the cams to fit the tools (very snug but they do fit) manually as they were no longer in sync anyway, and changed the timing without computer (although I want one now) on the basis it visually looked wrong. My car nearly has 200000 miles, threw a cambelt on the motorway, and I, knowing nothing of the subject, I have managed to make this car run better than it ever has. Insane low end torque. Thank you so much.
THE BEST video ever for timing belt on VW!! This is so cool to have the real good information, not just "feeling mechanic" which we can see most of time. This is so clear, absolutly perfect. Thank you so much for sharing this knowledge.
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One of the best videos on Car Repair I have EVER seen So informative Everything explained without suggesting the listener is stupid As someone who did a 2 year apprenticeship when leaving school and working on Maxi 5 speed gearboxes, urquattro strip down and Porsche Water cooled cars it made me realize a diesel is no different I have the Autel system I presume I can get similar readouts to the one you are using THANKS AGAIN
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@@TotalTechnik Hello, why does the timing synchronization change from 1.2 on a cold engine to 0.4 on a warm 90 C? Is the timing correctly installed? 1.6 tdi cayc engine ....
Tackled this job today along with the crankshaft oil seal, I had the same issue with the locking pins , but was expecting it due to this video, I used my dremmel with a sanding barrel to take some off the pins, took a few minutes and pins slotted in perfectly😁
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Nice to see a vag cambelt change video where genuine vag kit and waterpump is used It may add £80-100 on to the total but I think its definitely worth it as aftermarket waterpumps have tendency to leak well before they change interval
You should change a cambelt and waterpump on a cold engine, but for anyone making fine adjustments ONLY DO IT ON A WARM ENGINE. And make very very fine adjustments like 1 or 2mm at a time. my car cold would be fuel consumption 0.8 but warm is 0.6 so never do adjustments when cold as it will not be accurate when it gets hot. I recently changed my cambelt, waterpump, pulleys, tensioners and stud for the tensioner, and as an experiment I ran my car with the torsion value at -0.47/-0.94 and fuel consumption at 0.40 and the power was flat and the bkd engine shudder was more obvious, it drove way nicer when I finely adjusted the torsion to 0.00 and fuel consumption to 0.6. I went from 53-55mpg cruising at 60mph to 60-62mpg on the motorway. It is waaay nicer to drive now, the power comes on much sooner and smoother too.
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It's nice to see this job done on an Audi with plenty of room before I tried to do it on my Golf through a letterbox. I will spend half an hour emptying that side of the engine bay before I start!
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Followed your video successfully changed my seat altea 1.9 bkd timing belt without a single issue little tight for room but relatively easy to do provided you have the locking kit
Brilliant video, thanks a million. I just did it step by step pausing and going out in the pouring rain to do the next part. I was a bit worried when I discovered that I only have one camshaft, dunno where the other one has gone but all is good anyway and I saved a fortune over main dealer prices (quote £791 ...... my cost £120)
I have a 2.0 tdi seat leon 170bhp. I have mpg issues £20 to 100 miles motorway speed of 65mph. I gone through all the sensors maf, map cleaned them up with electrical spray engine runs better. Been to 3 garages asked if they can do torsion values and looked at me like i walked off a ufo. Last option was my local volkswagon specialist and again never heard of torsion values i was gob smacked. Video was well explained and done a few timing belts on 2 polos tdi but never done a torsion value due to i don't have vcds.
Congratulations for video. This audi has the best engine position for this type of work. I have a Skoda Superb on which a lot of things have to be taken off to get to the timing belt.
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Looks like you moved the front end to the "Service position" rather than remove the whole front end. Do you have a video for this for a B7? Fantastic video as always, so well documented and methodical.
Excellent! Glad to hear your cambelt change went nice and smoothly, and glad we could help! Thank you also for your donation - it is much appreciated! --- To help support us (for both you and others reading this) there are a few things you can do: 1) Donations both needed and welcome! We cannot operate Total Technik without the support of people like you! You can donate by PayPal - just go to www.paypal.me/totaltechnik 2) Please ensure you subscribe to our TH-cam channel. 3) Please give our video's the Thumbs Up on TH-cam. 4) Please help spread the word, the more people who know about us the better! Add links to our video's in forums, let people know about us. Thank you for your support!
Do you mean the oil pump drive shaft? I bought the replacement shalft/hex key for KMB parts and had it fitted for approx £360 labour. Essential if you have BRE engine.
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Great vidoe watch start to finish , i have a QUESTION , you said that the top cams need to be turned to the right before putting on tbe new belt is that ONLY just the right side or is it both? Thank you
Glad you found it helpful. It took a LONG time to film this and edit it all. A lot of work went into this video!! Glad it is appreciated and saving people lots of money! --- To help support us (for both you and others reading this) there are a few things you can do: 1) Donations both needed and welcome! We cannot operate Total Technik without the support of people like you! You can donate by PayPal - just go to www.paypal.me/totaltechnik 2) Please ensure you subscribe to our TH-cam channel. 3) Please give our video's the Thumbs Up on TH-cam. 4) Please help spread the word, the more people who know about us the better! Add links to our video's in forums, let people know about us. Thank you for your support!
Excellent video, thank you. I don't have access to the locking pins or the crankshaft, and I think the timing of my BKD engine is wrong. Would the process be to adjust the intake camshaft first to 0.0 torsion, then the exhaust camshaft to get 0.4-0.6 l/h idle fuel consumption? Lastly, how does the torsion value change as the timing belt slackens with age? I'd like to offset the torsion value slightly to compensate for this in advance.
Hey there! Really glad you found the video enjoyable and helpful. We've actually done full engine removal videos for the 4.2 V8 Audi S4 B6/B7 and also for the 4.2 V8 Bi-Turbo Audi RS6, which are available (as paid videos) on our website: www.totaltechnik.com --- To help support us (for both you and others reading this) there are a few things you can do: 1) Donations both needed and welcome! We cannot operate Total Technik without the support of people like you! You can donate by PayPal - just go to www.paypal.me/totaltechnik 2) Please ensure you subscribe to our TH-cam channel. 3) Please give our video's the Thumbs Up on TH-cam. 4) Please help spread the word, the more people who know about us the better! Add links to our video's in forums, let people know about us. Thank you for your support!
Thanks..........If you find that the alignment is slightly off, after the belt has been fitted and tensioned, and the engine has been rotated a few times.............how is the adjustment done...........is it done by undoing the three bolts in the camshaft pulley ?
Congrats on the video. Can you please tell how to read timing on VCDS (i have 12.12) because being a 16V can't see the group 4 right? or if it will show on group 4 what camshaft sprocket we need to adjunst, exhaust or intake? i guess the intake?
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How long should this take for an experienced mechanic and what is the replacement schedule please on the 2.0 TDI if erring on the cautious side as a lot of conflicting mileage statements. Many thanks great upload.
in audis latest service book its states 60,000 miles replacement. the old books state 80,000 so has since been revised probably to be cautious. Time is the belts worst enemy as it degrades. safest option is 4 years, I have known them to last 8 years before changing but I couldn't drive a car knowing its that old
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Hi there is this the same engine as they put in the Mitsubishi outlaw ..as I have the 20L outlaw 2010 and it looks the same set up only asking as I cannot find the timing diagram for mine ..would really appreciate the help Regards Albert Great video by the way my friend 👍👌
Hi,i set the arrow from tensioner in middle of hole.i start the engine and after 5-10 min of running,the arrow from tensioner is 5 mm more of right side.Is ok or must make adjustement? You talkin about that in video but i don t understant all what are you say...my english in not so god.. So,cand runing with arrow from tensioner 5 mm(or little more) in right side?It s problem if i run with this like that? Thank you very much,you video is great
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Hi I have followed this guide to change my cambelt. It has been very helpful thankyou. The car is running great and seems to have gained some performance. Although I have noticed quite a large drop in fuel consumption so I purchased a obdeleven device and the torsion value was -1.47 and fuel consumption 0.4l i have adjusted this to 0 and it goes to 0.49 when driving or revved slightly but I am still getting poor consumption what would you reccomend I adjust it to to try and retain the better fuel consumption. It was around 43mpg and now im only getting 36mpg thanks Josh
Hey Josh! Glad you found the video helpful :-) For this engine you should be aiming your torsion value as close to 0 as possible, and fuel between 0.4 and 0.6. That's at idle, don't worry too much about the figure when revved. Assuming you are happy with the job you did on the cambelt, and the figures you achieved in the adjustment, and the car seems to be running well, then don't panic too much! It may take a little while for the settings to reset in the ECU, and in the meantime they may be a little off. Give it a while of driving (say a week should be more than enough) and see if the onboard computer figures start to adjust to more what you are expecting. Best of luck! --- To help support us (for both you and others reading this) there are a few things you can do: 1) Donations both needed and welcome! We cannot operate Total Technik without the support of people like you! You can donate by PayPal - just go to www.paypal.me/totaltechnik 2) Please ensure you subscribe to our TH-cam channel. 3) Please give our video's the Thumbs Up on TH-cam. 4) Please help spread the word, the more people who know about us the better! Add links to our video's in forums, let people know about us. Thank you for your support!
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in 1 tuth thats actually good tutorial I also have problems with locking tools do any manufacturers make correct tools for those tdi engines? I bought 3 sets and none of them fit right even the crank lock doesn't sit around the sprocket.
Yes, you should be able to get the correct tool. We had issues with this particular car and two sets of tools (as covered in the video) but other cars have been ok. Different variations I guess. The crank lock is essential to get a good fit. The two pins are easy to make workarounds (like in this video) as they are literally just pins, so just need to match the diameter and ensure is more than long enough. Don't try the job without a proper fitting cam lock. Remember there are two types. Maybe you tried the wrong one?? --- To help support us (for both you and others reading this) there are a few things you can do: 1) Donations both needed and welcome! We cannot operate Total Technik without the support of people like you! You can donate by PayPal - just go to www.paypal.me/totaltechnik 2) Please ensure you subscribe to our TH-cam channel. 3) Please give our video's the Thumbs Up on TH-cam. 4) Please help spread the word, the more people who know about us the better! Add links to our video's in forums, let people know about us. Thank you for your support!
Seems there are two different types of the larger upper roller, I bought a kit that came with the same type as the kit in the video (listed as suitable for my car) but the roller on my vw golf has one with a larger centre hole and different type of bolt. I’m guessing this is the case for all transverse mounted engines as it uses the same mounting place for the engine Mount.
@total Technik Hi, I have 2.0tdi Audi A6 2010, and I have noticed some grinding noise. It's mostly noticeable when car is idling, and you rev up to say 2k RPM, and as soon as RPM starts going down, you'll hear like rotating grinding noise. I did change my clutch adn DMF just recently, and DMF was bad and sounded very similar to this, so that noise lowered down quite a bit, but as this is till present I have feeling like it's bad water pump. Now my car has full history and all invoices, and my cambelt kit has been changed in Audi's dealership 17k miles ago, but with previous owner. 1st question I have is, do you think it's water pump making that grinding noise or something else? 2nd question is, would you leave the belt in place as it's done just 17k and go ahead and replace just water pump, or would you recommend doing both at once? (i personally would do all at once, but since I've just changed clutch and DMF a week or so ago, I can't really stretch that much now. So if not necessary, I'd leave belt and do the pump myself. Ofcourse, if the pump is an issue). Thank you very much in advance!
Curious to why you didn’t set the timing of the cams once the old belt was off and before the new belt was fitted. You said that the exhaust cam was 1-2mm out and this would likely be why the locking pin wouldn’t fit. With the crank at TDC and the old belt removed you could have slightly adjusted the exhaust and intake cams independently to allow the locking pins to fit. To do this you would just need to rotate the 18mm cam bolt slightly in either direction. The cam sprocket is a floating cam gear and so any slight adjustment of that whilst the 13mm bolts are loose does nothing for the cam alignment. Seems like this car was ever so slightly out of time and by using the slightly smaller allen keys you have continued this rather than resetting the timing by adjusting the crank and both cams independently of each other.
By loosening the 3 bolts and rotating the sprockets all the way clockwise… does this mean that when it comes to fine tuning it i won’t be able to turn it clockwise any further??
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Hi I am just getting into mechanics, I am glad you made this video and I learnt a lot, but I have a question for you, once I get the tensioner where I want it with an Allen key when I tightened the nut for the tensioner it moves the tensioner gauge up, tightens it? It was high and only just out of the gap so I left it and drove the car for a bit, but after I checked it today it was off the tensioner scale 😬. So I am going to let the car cool to ambient temp and redo the procedures, use the locking pins and take the pulley nut off check stud and nut then retighten it. Is this right or is something wrong? Many thanks I really appreciate your advice.
That is strange! Usually tightening the tension nut should not adjust the tension itself. That is done seperately with the hex key as per the video. That said, this is why you should always check the tensioner tension after tightening the nut just in case, as is shown in the video. Did you definitely use the correct nut on the tensioner? Were the several nuts in the cambelt set? --- To help support us (for both you and others reading this) there are a few things you can do: 1) Donations both needed and welcome! We cannot operate Total Technik without the support of people like you! You can donate by PayPal - just go to www.paypal.me/totaltechnik 2) Please ensure you subscribe to our TH-cam channel. 3) Please give our video's the Thumbs Up on TH-cam. 4) Please help spread the word, the more people who know about us the better! Add links to our video's in forums, let people know about us. Thank you for your support!
@@TotalTechnik Just to follow up I had used the correct nut and I just drove it as is as it was just on the limit of what it should be, but after checking it the other day with a mirror it has indeed moved about 2-3 off the gauge and when hot it is about 10mm off the scale.. I have found that sometimes the car drive nicely with low down torque then other times it seems flat on power at the bottom end then come it at 2.5k rpm which is weird and annoying so I am guessing the two could be related oddly. Tbh i just want to enjoy driving my car again. I have found from both my mk5 golfs 1.9tdi and 2.0tdi they never drive as good as when they are on there original timing belt from factory.
The cost will depend on where you take it to have the work done. You'd need to call around your local garages for prices. --- To help support us (for both you and others reading this) there are a few things you can do: 1) Donations both needed and welcome! We cannot operate Total Technik without the support of people like you! You can donate by PayPal - just go to www.paypal.me/totaltechnik 2) Please ensure you subscribe to our TH-cam channel. 3) Please give our video's the Thumbs Up on TH-cam. 4) Please help spread the word, the more people who know about us the better! Add links to our video's in forums, let people know about us. Thank you for your support!
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Great video. Is this the same engine like my 2008 A4 2.0 R4 16v TDI PD 103-125 kW with engine code BRD? This looks the same and I'm hoping to follow the method video'd here. Thanks
Hi do you know if a vw golf tdi has ccv valve or something else i have some smoke coming out of the dip stick lookes like pressure build up. I know on some mk6 golf tdi some have one on the top of the engine like pcv ventilation valve. Mine is 2010 cayc engine dsg gearbox any help appreciate it many thanks
Hi there I'm just woundering when it comes to fine tuning . As I have mine remapped so will my figures actually be different to what they should be when your saying about 0.4-.0.6 and 0.0kw
I will be doing this job on my own very soon, is there a cheaper alternative to VCDS that will allow me to see torsions value and fuel consumption value?
Yes, there should be many around. OBDeleven is meant to be pretty good, but we don't use it here (we use VCDS). A bit of Google research should throw up some cheap alternatives, especially as you just need to access modules to take data, not code them. --- To help support us (for both you and others reading this) there are a few things you can do: 1) Donations both needed and welcome! We cannot operate Total Technik without the support of people like you! You can donate by PayPal - just go to www.paypal.me/totaltechnik 2) Please ensure you subscribe to our TH-cam channel. 3) Please give our video's the Thumbs Up on TH-cam. 4) Please help spread the word, the more people who know about us the better! Add links to our video's in forums, let people know about us. Thank you for your support!
Thank you! Glad you enjoyed it and hope you found it useful and were able to save yourself a lot of money by doing the job yourself! If so, please do consider supporting us in return... --- To help support us (for both you and others reading this) there are a few things you can do: 1) Donations both needed and welcome! We cannot operate Total Technik without the support of people like you! You can donate by PayPal - just go to www.paypal.me/totaltechnik 2) Please ensure you subscribe to our TH-cam channel. 3) Please give our video's the Thumbs Up on TH-cam. 4) Please help spread the word, the more people who know about us the better! Add links to our video's in forums, let people know about us. Thank you for your support!
Hey there! No, probably not a good idea, especially not silicone. It should not be required. Hope that helps! --- To help support us (for both you and others reading this) there are a few things you can do: 1) Donations both needed and welcome! We cannot operate Total Technik without the support of people like you! You can donate by PayPal - just go to www.paypal.me/totaltechnik 2) Please ensure you subscribe to our TH-cam channel. 3) Please give our video's the Thumbs Up on TH-cam. 4) Please help spread the word, the more people who know about us the better! Add links to our video's in forums, let people know about us. Thank you for your support!
Good video - but my only worry is that the average joe won’t know what 15-20nm is so they should use a torque wrench for the small bolts and nuts or they will over tighten.
Yes, agreed. You should always use a torque wrench when you can. That said, many (cheaper end) torque wrenches don't go that low, so many people won't have that setting on their wrench. You either need a more expensive wrench, or otherwise a second torque wrench specifically for lower settings, which may not be practical for some. But, if you have a 15nm torque wrench handy then of course, it should be used :-) On these very low torque fixings (and taking into account the fixing type and job it is doing, very important!!!) the alternative is to get them nice and snug, without overtightening. --- To help support us (for both you and others reading this) there are a few things you can do: 1) Donations both needed and welcome! We cannot operate Total Technik without the support of people like you! You can donate by PayPal - just go to www.paypal.me/totaltechnik 2) Please ensure you subscribe to our TH-cam channel. 3) Please give our video's the Thumbs Up on TH-cam. 4) Please help spread the word, the more people who know about us the better! Add links to our video's in forums, let people know about us. Thank you for your support!
Thank you :-) --- To help support us (for both you and others reading this) there are a few things you can do: 1) Donations both needed and welcome! We cannot operate Total Technik without the support of people like you! You can donate by PayPal - just go to www.paypal.me/totaltechnik 2) Please ensure you subscribe to our TH-cam channel. 3) Please give our video's the Thumbs Up on TH-cam. 4) Please help spread the word, the more people who know about us the better! Add links to our video's in forums, let people know about us. Thank you for your support!
Glad you enjoyed it :-) --- To help support us (for both you and others reading this) there are a few things you can do: 1) Donations both needed and welcome! We cannot operate Total Technik without the support of people like you! You can donate by PayPal - just go to www.paypal.me/totaltechnik 2) Please ensure you subscribe to our TH-cam channel. 3) Please give our video's the Thumbs Up on TH-cam. 4) Please help spread the word, the more people who know about us the better! Add links to our video's in forums, let people know about us. Thank you for your support!
Very nice explanation! Thank you for this video! I have a question please :). I have a 2.0 CRTDI. In your cambelt lock set, you have 2 gear lock tool. You used only one. The second one has a different tooth type or this set is good for CR motors, and I have to use it to lock the high pressure pump with it?
Glad you found the video useful! The best way to ensure this would be to check the engine compatibility list for the tool you are looking to buy against you engine code. The Sealey tool gives a good comprehensive list of the engines it will cover, and I believe that info should be available on their website. Best of luck! --- To help support us (for both you and others reading this) there are a few things you can do: 1) Donations both needed and welcome! We cannot operate Total Technik without the support of people like you! You can donate by PayPal - just go to www.paypal.me/totaltechnik 2) Please ensure you subscribe to our TH-cam channel. 3) Please give our video's the Thumbs Up on TH-cam. 4) Please help spread the word, the more people who know about us the better! Add links to our video's in forums, let people know about us. Thank you for your support!
I really enjoyed the throughrough video. My question: on a 2011 A3 TDI, the engine is turned 90 degrees from this one. What do you advise to remove to access this belt more easily? I've heard not too remove the motor mount?
maybe a bit late on this, I've never done an a3 but have done a few golfs and on them you have to remove the engine mount as otherwise the belt cannot come off and it allows access, you can make a quick make shift brace using some 2x4 wood or similar to take the weight if the engine on one side. message if need any more details
Please watch the end secton in its entirety to get a better understanding on the basic process required for fine tuning (adjusting) the cams using VCDS. It's covered in detail there. --- To help support us (for both you and others reading this) there are a few things you can do: 1) Donations both needed and welcome! We cannot operate Total Technik without the support of people like you! You can donate by PayPal - just go to www.paypal.me/totaltechnik 2) Please ensure you subscribe to our TH-cam channel. 3) Please give our video's the Thumbs Up on TH-cam. 4) Please help spread the word, the more people who know about us the better! Add links to our video's in forums, let people know about us. Thank you for your support!
Looking for parts and tools?
Replacement Cambelt Kit with Waterpump (be sure to check compatibility)
UK: amzn.to/3St0Q7W
USA: amzn.to/3P3TFjJ
Canada: amzn.to/3zC1OWT
Timing Belt Tools
UK: amzn.to/3BJtNX7
USA: amzn.to/3oXZHrs
Canada: amzn.to/3dbI0lH
www.totaltechnik.com/selectstore
I couldn't find adequate words to describe your way of teaching and presenting through this video. The others should learn from this presentation. Well done and Thank You.
Thank you, it's extremly kind of you to say so, and is very much appreciated! Thank you for your support!
This is THE best instructional mechanical video I have seen. I think I would feel quite confident after seeing this!
This is absolutely the most detailed video I have found on the web and TH-cam
Thanks for taking the time to do this video. Although iv done timing belts for years I did have an issue with mine this time but watching this has sorted it......
My Octavia MK2 with BKD 140ps shredded its timing belt on the motorway. This video gave me the confidence to do mine. I adjusted the cams to fit the tools (very snug but they do fit) manually as they were no longer in sync anyway, and changed the timing without computer (although I want one now) on the basis it visually looked wrong.
My car nearly has 200000 miles, threw a cambelt on the motorway, and I, knowing nothing of the subject, I have managed to make this car run better than it ever has. Insane low end torque.
Thank you so much.
Was it belt failure of did the tensioner fail or the stud the tensioner rides on fail?
THE BEST video ever for timing belt on VW!! This is so cool to have the real good information, not just "feeling mechanic" which we can see most of time.
This is so clear, absolutly perfect.
Thank you so much for sharing this knowledge.
Thank you, that is very kind and much appreciated!
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One of the best videos on Car Repair I have EVER seen
So informative Everything explained without suggesting the listener is stupid
As someone who did a 2 year apprenticeship when leaving school and working on Maxi 5 speed gearboxes, urquattro strip down and Porsche Water cooled cars it made me realize a diesel is no different
I have the Autel system I presume I can get similar readouts to the one you are using
THANKS AGAIN
Thank you - that is genuinely much appreciated :-)
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@@TotalTechnik Hello, why does the timing synchronization change from 1.2 on a cold engine to 0.4 on a warm 90 C? Is the timing correctly installed? 1.6 tdi cayc engine ....
Austin Maxi..the worst car i ever owned...but it was 5 speed and it was very comfy
Tackled this job today along with the crankshaft oil seal, I had the same issue with the locking pins , but was expecting it due to this video, I used my dremmel with a sanding barrel to take some off the pins, took a few minutes and pins slotted in perfectly😁
Always something to learn. No mechanic knows everything about all the 4000 models of vehicles on Britain's roads.
100% agreed!
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Thank you for your support! 100% agr
Nice to see a vag cambelt change video where genuine vag kit and waterpump is used
It may add £80-100 on to the total but I think its definitely worth it as aftermarket waterpumps have tendency to leak well before they change interval
After watching this, I agree with everyone else. Top class video. Absolutely perfect in every way. Thank you.
You should change a cambelt and waterpump on a cold engine, but for anyone making fine adjustments ONLY DO IT ON A WARM ENGINE. And make very very fine adjustments like 1 or 2mm at a time. my car cold would be fuel consumption 0.8 but warm is 0.6 so never do adjustments when cold as it will not be accurate when it gets hot.
I recently changed my cambelt, waterpump, pulleys, tensioners and stud for the tensioner, and as an experiment I ran my car with the torsion value at -0.47/-0.94 and fuel consumption at 0.40 and the power was flat and the bkd engine shudder was more obvious, it drove way nicer when I finely adjusted the torsion to 0.00 and fuel consumption to 0.6. I went from 53-55mpg cruising at 60mph to 60-62mpg on the motorway. It is waaay nicer to drive now, the power comes on much sooner and smoother too.
Thanks for that info I’m doing the timing belt on my BKD today and will check the values whilst I’m at it as I get a bit of engine shudder at idle now
Is it EDC16?
Thanks.
what do you mean torsion alue of -0.47/-0.94 and fuel consumption at 0,4 ? thanks
@@thebroishereagainn Google it...
Very professional ,cool and calm even when a small issue with the pins ,
Excellent in depth in detail how to video
Excellent work
Thank you. Glad you enjoyed the video and hope you found it useful :-)
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Possibly the best video on you tube.
Brilliant video, I don't have an Audi yet but after watching this I feel fairly confident that I can change the belt myself when I do 😀👍
Thank you, and glad you enjoyed it :-)
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best video ever i have seen on any car maintenance topic !
cheers for this !
Glad you found it useful, and hope you were able to use it and save yourself a load of money along the way!! :-)
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It's nice to see this job done on an Audi with plenty of room before I tried to do it on my Golf through a letterbox. I will spend half an hour emptying that side of the engine bay before I start!
Lol, it's going to be fun, think positive! Best of luck :-)
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Followed your video successfully changed my seat altea 1.9 bkd timing belt without a single issue little tight for room but relatively easy to do provided you have the locking kit
Brilliant video, thanks a million. I just did it step by step pausing and going out in the pouring rain to do the next part. I was a bit worried when I discovered that I only have one camshaft, dunno where the other one has gone but all is good anyway and I saved a fortune over main dealer prices (quote £791 ...... my cost £120)
I have a 2.0 tdi seat leon 170bhp. I have mpg issues £20 to 100 miles motorway speed of 65mph.
I gone through all the sensors maf, map cleaned them up with electrical spray engine runs better.
Been to 3 garages asked if they can do torsion values and looked at me like i walked off a ufo. Last option was my local volkswagon specialist and again never heard of torsion values i was gob smacked.
Video was well explained and done a few timing belts on 2 polos tdi but never done a torsion value due to i don't have vcds.
Do the torsion values need to be amended when the engine is cold or at operating temperature? Thanks
Congratulations for video. This audi has the best engine position for this type of work. I have a Skoda Superb on which a lot of things have to be taken off to get to the timing belt.
Thank you :-)
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Looks like you moved the front end to the "Service position" rather than remove the whole front end. Do you have a video for this for a B7? Fantastic video as always, so well documented and methodical.
Awesome video! Maybe I'll dare to try this myself and (hopefully) save about 300 euros.
Amazing video follow all instruction given and nothing went wrong and all started up fine, thanks.
Excellent! Glad to hear your cambelt change went nice and smoothly, and glad we could help! Thank you also for your donation - it is much appreciated!
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Doing this job and I have just realised I am missing my 19mm 12pt socket and the correct spline bit. Fuming! Great video though!
A video on replacing the balance shaft and hex key on this engine would be great
Do you mean the oil pump drive shaft?
I bought the replacement shalft/hex key for KMB parts and had it fitted for approx £360 labour. Essential if you have BRE engine.
Well don mate I have seen so many videos, but I never seen anything like that, so nice and goog explanation from a 2 z agoin thank you for that 😀👍👍👍👍👍
Excellent - thank you! Really glad you found it helpful :-)
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This is probably the best DIY-video I've ever seen. 👏👌
Thank you - that's much appreciated! :-)
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Bardzo dziękuję Panu za bezcenną pomoc !
Very nice and pro. Every little thing in the video what is necessary to do this work well on the car. Well done 👍
Thank you, glad you enjoyed it and hope it was helpful for you :-)
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Great vidoe watch start to finish , i have a QUESTION , you said that the top cams need to be turned to the right before putting on tbe new belt is that ONLY just the right side or is it both?
Thank you
An excellent video, very well explained at a good pace that made it easy to understand. Thank you.
Glad you found it helpful. It took a LONG time to film this and edit it all. A lot of work went into this video!! Glad it is appreciated and saving people lots of money!
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Excellent video, thank you.
I don't have access to the locking pins or the crankshaft, and I think the timing of my BKD engine is wrong. Would the process be to adjust the intake camshaft first to 0.0 torsion, then the exhaust camshaft to get 0.4-0.6 l/h idle fuel consumption?
Lastly, how does the torsion value change as the timing belt slackens with age? I'd like to offset the torsion value slightly to compensate for this in advance.
Many thanks for this. The Best video, great detailed explanation and loads of useful info. 👌
Fantastic video. I learnt a lot from this about VAG. Any chance to post removing or rebuilding a VAG engine in the future? Cheers mate
Hey there! Really glad you found the video enjoyable and helpful. We've actually done full engine removal videos for the 4.2 V8 Audi S4 B6/B7 and also for the 4.2 V8 Bi-Turbo Audi RS6, which are available (as paid videos) on our website: www.totaltechnik.com
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Thanks..........If you find that the alignment is slightly off, after the belt has been fitted and tensioned, and the engine has been rotated a few times.............how is the adjustment done...........is it done by undoing the three bolts in the camshaft pulley ?
Congrats on the video. Can you please tell how to read timing on VCDS (i have 12.12) because being a 16V can't see the group 4 right? or if it will show on group 4 what camshaft sprocket we need to adjunst, exhaust or intake? i guess the intake?
Truly Professional Brilliant Excellent video 10 out of 10
Thank you - much appreciated!
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Thank you SO SO SO MUCH!!!!! OMFG WHAT AN AMAZING GUIDE ❤
Fantastic video. Made my life so easy.. many thanks 😊
Thank you, glad we could help you out! :-)
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excellent - detailed and very comprehensive ......thank you
Great video ! By far one of the best I've seen. Could I ask where you found the Audi repair manual ?
Best videos so far....love it !!
Any link for the timing fine tuning ?
Hi babe r we doing anything tomorrow
You are very good teacher 👏 ❤
great content - confident in tackling this !
Thank you, much appreciated :-)
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Does fine tuning cams is also same procedure for Common rail engines?
...in-depth! Approved! 👍
Thank you!
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Grate vide mate, thank you. Quick question, Is there any way to measure the wear on the flywheel using VCDS measure blocks ?
very good guide thx! next week i need this for my jetta mk5
Thank you for the great detailed video🙂 much respect.
How long should this take for an experienced mechanic and what is the replacement schedule please on the 2.0 TDI if erring on the cautious side as a lot of conflicting mileage statements. Many thanks great upload.
in audis latest service book its states 60,000 miles replacement. the old books state 80,000 so has since been revised probably to be cautious. Time is the belts worst enemy as it degrades. safest option is 4 years, I have known them to last 8 years before changing but I couldn't drive a car knowing its that old
Great video. Great effort in explaining all the details. Thanks a lot 👍
Thank you! Glad to see you found our content useful!
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Hi there is this the same engine as they put in the Mitsubishi outlaw ..as I have the 20L outlaw 2010 and it looks the same set up only asking as I cannot find the timing diagram for mine ..would really appreciate the help
Regards Albert
Great video by the way my friend 👍👌
Hi,i set the arrow from tensioner in middle of hole.i start the engine and after 5-10 min of running,the arrow from tensioner is 5 mm more of right side.Is ok or must make adjustement?
You talkin about that in video but i don t understant all what are you say...my english in not so god..
So,cand runing with arrow from tensioner 5 mm(or little more) in right side?It s problem if i run with this like that?
Thank you very much,you video is great
I've had my cambelt changed on my 2015 Jetta TDI, the mpg has really suffered since.
What could be the cause?
Great videos 👍
Thank you! We appreciate that a lot!
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Thank you for sharing that…very good explanation 👍
Glad that you enjoyed it, thanks for your support! :-)
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Hi do you know what is the best torsion value on vcds for cam timing thanks mine is a bre
Best video I have seen 👍.
Great video is this the same job on my 2015 audi a3 saloon sline 2.0 tdi 150 bhp?
Hi is this the same process for an audi a5 2.0 tdi ?
Thank you
If your cars ecu was remapped would you expect to find the field values in 004 block 4 and 015 block 3 different compared to standard ecu settings?
a remap won't have any effect on it bud, besides stretching the belt out earlier, thus throwing the value out even more
The diesel pump no need to be timed???
Is this the 16v tdi?
Hi I have followed this guide to change my cambelt. It has been very helpful thankyou. The car is running great and seems to have gained some performance. Although I have noticed quite a large drop in fuel consumption so I purchased a obdeleven device and the torsion value was -1.47 and fuel consumption 0.4l i have adjusted this to 0 and it goes to 0.49 when driving or revved slightly but I am still getting poor consumption what would you reccomend I adjust it to to try and retain the better fuel consumption. It was around 43mpg and now im only getting 36mpg thanks Josh
Hey Josh! Glad you found the video helpful :-) For this engine you should be aiming your torsion value as close to 0 as possible, and fuel between 0.4 and 0.6. That's at idle, don't worry too much about the figure when revved. Assuming you are happy with the job you did on the cambelt, and the figures you achieved in the adjustment, and the car seems to be running well, then don't panic too much! It may take a little while for the settings to reset in the ECU, and in the meantime they may be a little off. Give it a while of driving (say a week should be more than enough) and see if the onboard computer figures start to adjust to more what you are expecting. Best of luck!
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Please for BMN 2.0 tdi engine with injectors siemens torsion value??
what a fantastic video. well done and thanx!
Thank you, much appreciated
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in 1 tuth thats actually good tutorial I also have problems with locking tools do any manufacturers make correct tools for those tdi engines? I bought 3 sets and none of them fit right even the crank lock doesn't sit around the sprocket.
Yes, you should be able to get the correct tool. We had issues with this particular car and two sets of tools (as covered in the video) but other cars have been ok. Different variations I guess. The crank lock is essential to get a good fit. The two pins are easy to make workarounds (like in this video) as they are literally just pins, so just need to match the diameter and ensure is more than long enough. Don't try the job without a proper fitting cam lock. Remember there are two types. Maybe you tried the wrong one??
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Can I use this video for an Audi A5 2.0 TDI 177CH MULTITRONIC BA8? Thank you 🙏🏽
Seems there are two different types of the larger upper roller, I bought a kit that came with the same type as the kit in the video (listed as suitable for my car) but the roller on my vw golf has one with a larger centre hole and different type of bolt. I’m guessing this is the case for all transverse mounted engines as it uses the same mounting place for the engine Mount.
Any information on the S Tronic Megatronics
@total Technik Hi, I have 2.0tdi Audi A6 2010, and I have noticed some grinding noise. It's mostly noticeable when car is idling, and you rev up to say 2k RPM, and as soon as RPM starts going down, you'll hear like rotating grinding noise.
I did change my clutch adn DMF just recently, and DMF was bad and sounded very similar to this, so that noise lowered down quite a bit, but as this is till present I have feeling like it's bad water pump.
Now my car has full history and all invoices, and my cambelt kit has been changed in Audi's dealership 17k miles ago, but with previous owner.
1st question I have is, do you think it's water pump making that grinding noise or something else?
2nd question is, would you leave the belt in place as it's done just 17k and go ahead and replace just water pump, or would you recommend doing both at once? (i personally would do all at once, but since I've just changed clutch and DMF a week or so ago, I can't really stretch that much now. So if not necessary, I'd leave belt and do the pump myself. Ofcourse, if the pump is an issue).
Thank you very much in advance!
Curious to why you didn’t set the timing of the cams once the old belt was off and before the new belt was fitted.
You said that the exhaust cam was 1-2mm out and this would likely be why the locking pin wouldn’t fit.
With the crank at TDC and the old belt removed you could have slightly adjusted the exhaust and intake cams independently to allow the locking pins to fit. To do this you would just need to rotate the 18mm cam bolt slightly in either direction.
The cam sprocket is a floating cam gear and so any slight adjustment of that whilst the 13mm bolts are loose does nothing for the cam alignment.
Seems like this car was ever so slightly out of time and by using the slightly smaller allen keys you have continued this rather than resetting the timing by adjusting the crank and both cams independently of each other.
By loosening the 3 bolts and rotating the sprockets all the way clockwise… does this mean that when it comes to fine tuning it i won’t be able to turn it clockwise any further??
Excellent stuff best diy video 👌
Thank you, much appreciated!! Any support appreciated: www.paypal.me/totaltechnik.me
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Hi I am just getting into mechanics, I am glad you made this video and I learnt a lot, but I have a question for you, once I get the tensioner where I want it with an Allen key when I tightened the nut for the tensioner it moves the tensioner gauge up, tightens it? It was high and only just out of the gap so I left it and drove the car for a bit, but after I checked it today it was off the tensioner scale 😬. So I am going to let the car cool to ambient temp and redo the procedures, use the locking pins and take the pulley nut off check stud and nut then retighten it. Is this right or is something wrong? Many thanks I really appreciate your advice.
That is strange! Usually tightening the tension nut should not adjust the tension itself. That is done seperately with the hex key as per the video. That said, this is why you should always check the tensioner tension after tightening the nut just in case, as is shown in the video. Did you definitely use the correct nut on the tensioner? Were the several nuts in the cambelt set?
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@@TotalTechnik Just to follow up I had used the correct nut and I just drove it as is as it was just on the limit of what it should be, but after checking it the other day with a mirror it has indeed moved about 2-3 off the gauge and when hot it is about 10mm off the scale.. I have found that sometimes the car drive nicely with low down torque then other times it seems flat on power at the bottom end then come it at 2.5k rpm which is weird and annoying so I am guessing the two could be related oddly. Tbh i just want to enjoy driving my car again. I have found from both my mk5 golfs 1.9tdi and 2.0tdi they never drive as good as when they are on there original timing belt from factory.
Nice job,how much will be cost for Audi A6 2016 cam belt change.thanks
The cost will depend on where you take it to have the work done. You'd need to call around your local garages for prices.
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Great video thx , nice details
Thank you, hope it helped you out!! Any support in return much appreciated :www.paypal.me/totaltechnik
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Great video. Is this the same engine like my 2008 A4 2.0 R4 16v TDI PD 103-125 kW with engine code BRD?
This looks the same and I'm hoping to follow the method video'd here.
Thanks
Love the video!
Would this be the same for a 2013 VW Passat do you know?
Hi do you know if a vw golf tdi has ccv valve or something else i have some smoke coming out of the dip stick lookes like pressure build up. I know on some mk6 golf tdi some have one on the top of the engine like pcv ventilation valve. Mine is 2010 cayc engine dsg gearbox any help appreciate it many thanks
Hi there I'm just woundering when it comes to fine tuning . As I have mine remapped so will my figures actually be different to what they should be when your saying about 0.4-.0.6 and 0.0kw
top man, thank you for the video and explanations that you prove
Looks like a lot of faffing about to do a simple job, locking this and locking that, nothing that a marker pen can’t do ! This is a simple setup .
❤ good job
Thanks!
Thank you for your support!
I will be doing this job on my own very soon, is there a cheaper alternative to VCDS that will allow me to see torsions value and fuel consumption value?
Yes, there should be many around. OBDeleven is meant to be pretty good, but we don't use it here (we use VCDS). A bit of Google research should throw up some cheap alternatives, especially as you just need to access modules to take data, not code them.
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Great video thanks
Excellent thanks very much you’ve covered everything totally appreciated keep up the good work thank you
Thank you! Glad you enjoyed it and hope you found it useful and were able to save yourself a lot of money by doing the job yourself! If so, please do consider supporting us in return...
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This video is great
would you recommend a small bead of silicone around the rubber o-ring on the waterpump?
Hey there! No, probably not a good idea, especially not silicone. It should not be required. Hope that helps!
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Good video - but my only worry is that the average joe won’t know what 15-20nm is so they should use a torque wrench for the small bolts and nuts or they will over tighten.
Yes, agreed. You should always use a torque wrench when you can. That said, many (cheaper end) torque wrenches don't go that low, so many people won't have that setting on their wrench. You either need a more expensive wrench, or otherwise a second torque wrench specifically for lower settings, which may not be practical for some. But, if you have a 15nm torque wrench handy then of course, it should be used :-) On these very low torque fixings (and taking into account the fixing type and job it is doing, very important!!!) the alternative is to get them nice and snug, without overtightening.
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Nice one mate 👍
Thank you :-)
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Marvelous video, wish i I could find one as good for the transverse 1.6 tdi, Touran fashion; what a pain in the a***!
👍🏻
Glad you enjoyed it :-)
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Hi thanks for this, would this guide apply to a mark 5 golf 2.0 tdi 170 engine too?
Brilliant video.. thanks.
Glad it was helpful!
@@TotalTechnik Very!!
Very nice explanation! Thank you for this video! I have a question please :). I have a 2.0 CRTDI. In your cambelt lock set, you have 2 gear lock tool. You used only one. The second one has a different tooth type or this set is good for CR motors, and I have to use it to lock the high pressure pump with it?
Glad you found the video useful! The best way to ensure this would be to check the engine compatibility list for the tool you are looking to buy against you engine code. The Sealey tool gives a good comprehensive list of the engines it will cover, and I believe that info should be available on their website. Best of luck!
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I really enjoyed the throughrough video. My question: on a 2011 A3 TDI, the engine is turned 90 degrees from this one. What do you advise to remove to access this belt more easily? I've heard not too remove the motor mount?
Did you ever get some light shed on is question?
maybe a bit late on this, I've never done an a3 but have done a few golfs and on them you have to remove the engine mount as otherwise the belt cannot come off and it allows access, you can make a quick make shift brace using some 2x4 wood or similar to take the weight if the engine on one side. message if need any more details
How do you alter fueling which you refer to should be 0.4 to 0.6 on a pd130 engine? Thanks,
Please watch the end secton in its entirety to get a better understanding on the basic process required for fine tuning (adjusting) the cams using VCDS. It's covered in detail there.
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