A Miniature Knee for a Miniature Mill.....Take a Look !!
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 8 มี.ค. 2024
- This video details the complete machining of the Knee component for the PM Research Mini Milling machine. This part was more technical than I initially thought. This video is full of shop gems and sequence of operations logic. Take a Look !!! Enjoy.
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My opinion: No music please for the sped-up video. ☺
I still want the 90s intro though. It is classy old school tech video goodness.
Unless it’s Yakkity Sax.
I second that.
No music unless it a video by Chris from his Clips collection.
Agree...no music.
silence is golden if I need music I will turn my radio on😁
The knights of Knee shed their approval upon this fine video. And that was not a beehive you removed. It was...A SHRUBBERY!!!
Great description of how to properly address a raw casting Joe. If I may just point one minor correction out for your viewers, when you were talking about the projection direction on the print, you referred to imperial and metric projection, this is actually 1st or 3rd angle projection, and either can be applied to metric or imperial drawings. The projection angle the drawing is drafted in is denoted by a symbol in the title block usually. I am sure you know this Joe, just didn't want anyone getting the wrong end of the stick. Great job. Cheers, Jon
Thanks Jon.
Joe,
Sandcast parts have draft angles because their patterns need it to facilitate the pattern’s removal from the cope and drag.
Love the channel, don’t change a thing.
Thanks.
One bite at a time and this complicated little part becomes more straightforward and doable. Thanks, Joe.
Just think 5 bites ahead and you'll be fine.
Welcome Back Joe. That defect is called a sand fall. Looks ugly but does not limit functionality.
The draft angles and fillets allow you to pull the pattern out of the sand.
I'd rather have a positive ugly than a big blow hole.
@@joepie221 LOL I have worked several castings on older machines. Huge castings for small shops. Many of these were gone using pit casting. Pit casting is where you work the mold in a pit full of sand. These castings often had blow holes. These were filled with lead. I can imagine pouring a pit casting on a huge machine. The bucket of a few tons of white hot iron can scare most folks to rethink what they’re doing there.
That finished piece is beautiful! I have no machinist equipment, too old to make the investment so I have to "share" your satisfaction in such a job well done. Thank you
Thanks. I like it too.
Amazing work again and very educative. Thank you for your wonderful dedication to sharing all this.
As to your question about music: please no. But it is your channel, you decide.
As to the texts you are showing, I am too slow a reader to take it all in, so I have to pause the video again and again. I prefer you talking through the remarks. You have a good narrating voice and a good sense of humour, so make use of it.
Greetings from the Netherlands (colloquially know in the US as Amsterdam)
Noted, thanks.
Depends on the music, but with 169,000 followers good luck making them all happy!
Great job Joe. Nice to see you get back to the mill.
No music is fine. Some creators try to blast my ears out with music but you can't hear their voice. Thank you Joe.
Draft is required to prevent sand pulls when removing patterns. Even so, the blemish Joe machined out is an actual sand fall. That corner is very delicate in the sand and this time, it fell in.
While draft is required in sand casting, it’s needed. But I always find one of the more critical phases in machining sand castings is knowing where to start and establishing reference planes or as Joe says, banking surfaces. Think about what you will do prior to your first chips.
ref: 0900 NO music. Silence is always better.
Noted.
Joe, the draft is for removal of the plug from the sand mold. If you do lost wax, there is no need for draft, but that is a whole different game. This is a difficult piece to make. I have made this once and am trying again to see if I can do it better.
Tricky little part done well. Thanks.
Thanks Preso.
If the silence is unsettling, you could play a loop of generic milling milling noises at normal speed during the sped-up portions.
Or termites, or beavers gnawing wood, or jackhammers.
Or play the Ride of the Valkyries with a machine tool orchestra.
Love the "centering groove" feature in your fixture!
Bulletproof.
I realised quite some time ago
this is......
"Advanced "Precision" Innovations".
Quite enjoyable.
Thank you.
Youre welcome.
Hi the taper on the casting is because the pattern needs to be removed from the sand without damaging mold.
I am looking forward to the episode where you scrape the machine in....😊
I may scrape it along my benchtop, but thats probably it.
No music, Joe, JMHO. It would be a disruptive comparison to your soothing voice. 😉
Some times lost wax patterns are used and covered with a plaster type mold and then the wax is melted out and the metal poured in , no draft angle is needed in this type as the mold is broken off the parts .
Magic pure magic!! would have loved to work in your shop.
Man have I been waiting a long time for this... can't wait to see how it turns out. Thanks for the video Joe!!
No music just a soft sound of the cutter working!
I'll have to create that track for those segments.
Joe I love watching your videos I learn a lot on your videos thank you very much
... among my favorite words: irregardless, inflammable, and unloosen. ;)
😁Joe uses unloosen to wind us up (a storm broke out in the comments after his first use) but, yeah, those are silly words
Additional shop terms.
Üpkehfuckt: The process that produces scrap or assembly errors. Origin, quasi Deutsche
Gehien Deutsche Zug: Secret German Stuff.
@@mpetersen6 Thanks, man. German is such a handy language for creating universal words. English seems to focus on body parts or processes...?
No draft or near no draft castings require something like lost foam or investment wax castings which look very different as they are "near net shape " castings and can be extremely accurate especially if internal features matter. The original Saturn 4 cylinders were lost foam cast; case and heads. It's a more expensive process but the results are worth it in some manufacturing processes. Vulcan Engineering makes the systems that mold and glue the foam into the final shapes for each cast part.
I appreciate the info.
the use of jigs is immensely helpful thanks for sharing them keep having fun!!
Another wonderful video, amazing to see the work going into each little part. Please no music
This little part has a lot going on.
Great work again Joe! Rather than silence, or music. I think it would be good to continue with a voice over giving some additional details. Just a though.
Draft angle is needed to remove the pattern from the sand mold before the metal can be poured .
And here I thought draft angle was all about getting classified as 4F.
I'm waiting to see you scrape the ways. 😊
Me too.
Also the pattern has to be made larger to account for shrinkage as the metal cools , there is shrinkage rulers for making patterns over size to get the final part size .
Also tables in Machinery's Handbook. In different materials iirc.
Jacking bolts between the vises would give you some fine adjustments if it were necessary. Love the channel.
Thanks again Joe
You Bet.
Very good as usual. Spatial understanding is often said to be a male thing, like imagining three-dimensional bodies of material inside the brain, just by thinking. Also to navigate the woods, lands or seas, using a chart and a compass, maybe even with a sense of direction and heading, without technical means. The Vikings did not use compasses, but they could fare to Iceland, back and forth to Norway, all over the time, for 500 of years or more, until the great plage stopped the traffic.
Your little tombstone could also be called a Zippo, especially if it was made of aluminum since it would be a little lighter.
🤣
Oh...I see what ya did there. Good one.
Yuck yuck 😂
Draft is to help remove the pattern from the sand help with collapse on edges
Agreed. 2:08
Hi Joe, not seen you for a while. Good to see you again. 👍
I'm waiting on material for another run of plates and clamps. Opportunity knocked.
Fantastic as usual Joe!
Thank you.
I like the initials F.O.G. I have never heard that before and I proudly am one.
Yep, Farty Old Guy, that's what I identify as too.
@@oldfarthacks 😂😂😂😂
A true badge of honor to be the shop F.O.G. He's usually the one with the answer to your question or the tool you need to borrow.
Thanks once again, Joe. Love these. By the by, bought myself a Stirling 5 cylinder radial aero engine following your vid a couple of months back - love it! Looks so sexy in my cabinet and when I show it to visitors (and tell them I made it myself) they're more than gobsmacked. Kudos for me!
Nice. Its an impressive kit. I like mine. Its in a glass box.
Great work again Joe..... my preference is for no music, as it nearly always ends up to dam loud, few people, manage to get the ''sound levels'' anywhere near right.. Cheers 👍👍
Good day Joe. Nice to have you back on the miniatures. Think big, work small eh. Flying parts, LOL. I built a pedestal polisher out of a small grinder and made extensions to get the cotton wheels farter away from the motor. Right away I had a large piece of silver take off at light speed so of course after it hit the platform, the wall behind it and on to the floor it was a remelt. After a while I ended up ruining a few more pieces I cut the base back so I could use the bottom of the polishing wheels and got a nice piece of small openings netting installed to catch the pieces as they left my control. No more ruined pieces. I have a video of the piece. When I see dross in a corner like that I think SAND. Tunes are a choice but you narating is better my friend. A busy casting is almost an understatement. Of all the pieces I have seen you make I believe this is the, LOL, busiest yet. Thanks a bunch Joe. I really liked this one. Your long awaited parcel should be there this week. It sure has a lot of miles on it eh. Thanks again and see you next post my friend.
Thanks for stopping by sir. Always good to see a comment from ya.
And a big thanks to you too my southern friend. This is sure a tricky one. Without carefully work out where to start and the process to follow I can see a new knee or 2 may/will have to be ordered. @@joepie221
The draft angle, is so the pattern will come out of the mold easily
Agreed. 2:08
Amazing craftsmanship
Thanks.
That was a delicate job. I always like watching you make miniature parts. Thanks for the video keep on keeping on.
Thanks for stopping by Harold.
keep up the good work. thanks for sharing
Very good video thanks Jo for all the great information
Youre welcome.
Nice work. Thank you.
Thanks.
Great job with the fixtures. Few people do music well in my opinion. One channel that does is Engels Coach Shop. The music is there, is is relaxing and not loud. Glad to have you back with videos!
Joe, have you ever thought about or tried making your nests as Stl files in a 3D modeling program to exactly match the part you are working on, then printing them on a resin printer? The resin is pretty strong and for such short use could possibly hold up as well as the aluminum for a jig. This way you can create a nest /jig that supports across the entire surface of even irregular surfaces of the part to be machined. I'm building a model PT Boat Kit and I'm using a 3D modeling program to create more accurate and detailed parts then were provided with the kit. (I'm really just using the original kits Hull and deck.) Resin prints only provide so much accuracy however and the hinged hatches on the torpedo tubes will have to be machined down so they seal properly when closed. Instead of fighting the fit by altering the print setting and printing possibly multiple times to get it right. I created nesting jigs that exactly fit the profile of the hatch so I can mill them down. I still have to see if it will work so fingers crossed but just an idea I thought I would share.
I can generate .STL files here, but then I'd need an accurate digital model of the part first. Thats not a problem, the reverse engineering would be time consuming.
Another saying about hot parts. Everything in the weld shop is heavy. Do not ask how l know. 😖
Controlling the down movements of small cutters.
Bring the cuttr down close to the surface.
Lock the quill.
Set the quill stop to the current depth.
Unlock quill and retract slightly.
Lower quill stop in small amounts until cutter contacts work.
Lower quill stop in measuer amounts to control depth of cut.
Agreed. Good technique for grippy material.
Fantastic work sir, thank you!
Thank you Joe great video
Glad you enjoyed it
that was a complex part joe !
but you nailed it, as always.
cheers ben.
Thanks Ben. Lots going on with this one.
I finally succumbed to using a dictionary for “unloosened” and although it hurts my southwestern ears, it’s legit. Although I have digested thousands of hardbound and tens of thousands of paperbacks and never had seen it before tonight, it’s historically correct. Uncommon I think, but correct. Still hurts my ears and brain. 😢. You take advantage of my sensitive sense of prose. And help my twisted dry sense of humor. 😅
Great instructional
Thanks. There are a lot of different approaches in this video.
Awesome as always :)
Many thanks.
Mesmerizing. Loved it.
Windy hill foundry. Greath channel ❤
Beautiful work, as always.
Brilliant work, top-notch educational class. THANK you Joe
My pleasure.
thanks for the Tombstone tip!
Simple and very effective.
Very nice job Joe! Always a pleasure! Thanks!
Dear God, NO music, please. 9 out of 5 people on YT that think they are enhancing their FFwd video with music don't. Odds are quite low that it will not make the video worse.
Great video fantastic part can't wait for the conclusion
Nice to see you and your skills back again.
Thanks Joe
Great job as always
Thanks.
You truly are an inspiration Joe, thank you for your knowledge sharing
At 9:19, silence is golden.
Noted.
Beautiful work!
Thank you.
Thanks for another model. After watching you for a while now I am just starting on my own stuart D10. Starting to watch your D10 videos again to build up the courage to attack the more complex pieces. Thank you.
Awesome. Good luck.
Amazingly precise work,Joe.Thank you.
Thanks, Glad you enjoyed it.
Another GREAT Job Joe !!!! Larry from New Castle Del Coming down to Austin this summer hope to stop in
"To my satisfaction" 😁 Joe, you always impress me with details you achieve.Great work!
Tack!
Many thanks.
Nice one Joe.
I use a saying "Hindsight beats foresight by a darn sight"!😊
Sometimes you loose me , but i realy enjoy your videos. Thanks JOE.
I rather like/prefer the sound of silence.
Some slight background sound would be good, I just have to figure it out.
Awesome!
Thanks.
Hi Joe, well you are certainly the go to guy for innovative setups! Half the battle is holding the piece in the proper position! I enjoy learning a trick or three every time I watch you! Keep it up!!
Will do sir.
Ah Joe, music to my ears.
You can train your compressor to cut in during the speachless periods & cut out as you talk.
Tap the mic audio signal into an operational amplifier ( tiny cents chip) rectify the output signal, put a small capacitor accross it and feed it into another op- amp that is wired as a comparitor.
(Use a potentiometer as the v reference), and the output of the comparitor switches the compressor solonoid / contactor (may be through a relay or buffer).
If you want a strawberry on top of the iceing, you can use the comparitor o/p signal to also cut the compressor volume!
Talking of strawberries, when are you going to build a miniature 7 axis CNC machine?
So great to have you back.
Thanks
.
Thank you.
So many good lessons in this video. Thank you Joe!
You bet.
Always a pleasure watching you work the small details. Joe Pie the metal surgeon. 😁
Thanks 👍 I enjoy these.
for me PLEASE no MUSIC, i appreciate the commentary you give. I also really respect ur ability, yes you make it look so simply but as a machinist i understand the difficulties, very SMALL parts can give. Very NICE
I appreciate that.
Another potential ''headache'' piece! As always, great to see your approach and planning in order to achieve a great result. The dovetail cut was just spot on :). Enjoyed seeing this piece's metamorphosis Joe.
it was tougher than it looked initially.
No music
Very good job Mr joe Pie
Thanks.
Hey Joe great video sir. Its all about set up, you taught me that. Thank You (Silence is golden)
Hi David. Thanks for stopping by.
I’m looking forward to tackling this part on mine!
I hope this helped.
Your attention to detail even on a part that will never be worked is a good motivator to always do ones best.
Absolutely
Hi Joe. Super happy you are back on this model! I am doing the same one, and following along with you. I have learned a ton from your videos over the last couple of years as I progress as a hobby machinist. Great video quality, and amazing content. Can't wait for the next one, thanks so much! Roger from Calgary.
Thanks Roger. I hope this helps too.
I would have thought that the draft was more for getting the pattern out of the sand with the minimum damage to the mould...in this case.
It is. Agreed. 2:08
Can you make a soundtrack of machine noise. Just for myself, I would rather hear that,a maching noise than musiac. 😊
When holding parts as you did that are iffy on those curved tangent surfaces I have a suggestion that I employ.
You can use a piece/strip of cereal box cardboard between the part and the jaws. If you plan to use water and the part is going to be in the vice for an extended amount of time a better choice is gasket paper as it won't absorb the water and deteriorate.
Thanks for taking the time to share your expertise!
I like classical music, but since we're all different, Id rather have silence over music some people wouldnt like. You'd never please everyone and go crazy trying to.
Very excellent - a whole bunch of gems in there, and another fixture to add to the project list - a Tombstone. The extra mile attitude is such a good one to have - the results speak for themselves. That extra polishing / clean up / fettling - call it what you will - turns a great part into a breathtaking part. Cheers!
An excellent shop tool. In my 40 plus years one l never saw. Saw and used the idea of a spherical thrust piece to hold against tapered or uneven surfaces. We always had old bearings around to take the balls out of. I have even seen plates with a swivel foot jackscrew used. But take caution. There is a maximum angle that such tricks will be use to. To much angle between the movable viwe jaw and the surface being held and you risk the part being sucked out. The technical description of when this happening is üpkehfuckt.
Joe, we had a number of production machines out in production with indexing tables. One kind the table rode on steel balls 2.5 to 3 inches in diameter. It was scheduled to have the balls replaced so the table was lifted up. The old balls taken out and set aside. The races top and bottom were ground and shimmed. Then the bad news hit. Although the balls were ordered either the wrong size came in. Or they were not available. Luckily the old ones were not gone. A boss on the night shift told his people if they wanted a couple of the balls have at it. By nobody had yet. Later on I had some that were 25mm in diameter. I pulled some out at coffee one morning and started rolling them around in my hand like Bogart.