Machining the Mini Mill Saddle and Pivot Arm -- Shop Gem Included --
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 22 มี.ค. 2024
- This video covers the saddle and pivot arm components for the PM Research mini milling machine. A great shop gem is included. Check This One Out !!
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I made a coffee, I saw a Joe Pie video launch.
Now my coffee is cold.
But I have filled my heart with a big dose of warmth from Joes inspirational work.
That pivot arm is a thing of beauty. So impressive! Thanks for the lesson, Joe.
Thanks. Its a piece that future viewers of this model will look right past.
I swear, Joe must work next to LeMans
Was turning blue from holding my breath when that arm started flexing , glad it worked out and the part looks great.
More nice work Joe - the 'bracket casting' sure looked quite a challenge... nice video angles.
Great! A Joe Pie video.
I’ve had a terrible day in the workshop, this is just what I needed.
Thank God. You just saved me from endless “life hack” reels.
As always, I learned a ton watching this vid. But most of all, I learned how much I didn't know... 😅 Thanks as always for sharing your experience and wisdom with us.
Nothing to add, just wanted to share my gratitude for the videos you share with us. 🤘
My pleasure!
I noticed in his last video Mr. Crispin mentioned your machinist prowess several times.
I've known of Crispin and his channel for a few years. He is a very talented young man. Very.
A master at work mastering an impossible body.
I love my Joe Pie inspired 10-24 fixture plate and toe clamps! First class work pal.. As usual!
Proper job, as usual, Joe.
I always learn something.
Really appreciate how you explain how you go about establishing a reference surface.
Quite a transformation.
I have to admit, I cliched just a bit on that first hole through the arm when it started deflecting :)
Me too. The shims were 6061 and the casting was.....well a casting. So softer. Clamping pressure was a concern because I didn't want to imprint the pivot arm. The clamp had to also be slightly offset to allow for the milling of the inside of the larger end. It's Ok, kept it interesting on my end. Just glad my eyes could see it. :)
Thanks, another great video. I am in agreement, that defect at the end would bug the crap out of me forever......I may screw up the part trying to fix it, but try I would!
Edit: Hope the tiny eight legged machinists for all these projects appreciate your hard work!
Joe, you are a master at small parts. Great video!
Thanks 👍
Joe Pie the legend! thank you for your time Sir
You are too kind. Thank you.
Another master class Joe! Thanks!
As usual your attention to detail is outstanding, thanks for sharing. J
My pleasure!
Really informative setups and referencing!
Always good stuff Joe! love these model projects 👍👍
That little toe clamp fixture you made is awesome. I was doing something small on the mill the other day and was so glad I bought one as soon as you made them.
Thanks, I appreciate that. They are very handy to have in your arsenal of tooling.
Great to see another video Joe - and yet again some key shop gems. I just acquired a knee mill, so now I can start putting all these tips around setting the knee height for milling to set dimensions into use. And as always the sheer high quality levels of these components you make is a joy to behold. I have your motto "autograph your work with excellence" on my whiteboard.
I'm flattered. Thank you.
I don't know if it was intentional or not, Joe, but I noticed at the beginning of the video that you said this ought to be straightforward. In my former life I hated it when project managers would say they had an easy or simple job for me. Those two words meant that the project would forever be cursed.
Thanks for showing me new tricks!
I always interpreted it as...get ready, he's only kidding.
Second, LOL. Hey Joe, As promised, Here I be with baited breath for this next post. Awesome and onward eh. These castings are as good as anyone could ask for. No sneaky, tool shattering sand pockets and a symmetry well balanced. With you taking the extra time to pretty up pieces as you go along really gives the job a lot more attractive. Usually factory pieces can have blood letting sharp edges all over pieces. Just like the inner dash of todays new Fords. If you are going in there bandaids are always handy. Blood is notorious for being hard to clean leather. As you just said, , , Don't underestimate any pieces until the blood quits flowing eh, LOL. Thanks a bunch for another post on this wee mill. Ya rock fella !
Looking good, Joe. Nicely done.
Sweet Joe. Looking fantastic.
I really like these kits. The end result is a nice show piece.
Thank you for the great explanations and visuals you provide Joe . You are a master.
Thank you. I appreciate that!
Nice trick with the sharpy, not to overshoot the milling👍
Glad you liked it! I use it a lot.
Thoses two parts look great, keep up the great work.
Nice work Joe - that casting was nasty!
Yes it was!
Nice piece of work Joe. Well done. Thank you for sharing. Have a great day and stay safe.🙂🙂
Thanks again
hey Joe. Good to see you back on the fun stuff.
After your diamond video, I made one and then went on to make a dodecahedron (wood lathe I'm afraid). I've also just completed a small stellated dodecahedron (12 pointed star) and am planning a great stellated dodecahedron (20 pointed star). I keep thinking "how would Joe Pie do it?". The stars are great Christmas projects (hint hint, hope hope). Thanks for the inspiration.
Again another beautiful part
Very good looking work,Joe.Thank you.
Thanks Joe!👍
Thanks for sharing 👍
Nice work!
Thanks for the new tricks! 😊
Nice, very nice.
Thanks for sharing.
Things like that chip in the casting would bother me also. Very nice work. TEADEOUS.
It does.
very good video Mr Joe Pie
Awesome Joe…thank you
Hey Chuck. Thanks for stopping by.
Thanks for the video keep on keeping on.
Hi Harold. Thanks for stopping by.
GRATE JOB
For me, the nick in the casting gives it a bit of uniqueness and character, as long as it doesn't effect the machined surface, why not keep it?
Joe, this question isn't related to this video (though it did make me think of this question), but maybe you'd be willing to make one or more? videos to answer it. I hope!
Can you explain to us home shop machinists, that watch your videos to learn machining tips & tricks, about how to go about selecting carbide insert tooling or solid carbide tooling for "light" machinery? My mill-drill uses R8 collets like a Bridgeport does, but I've only used HSS cutters so far. My old (1911) South Bend ~10-inch lathe also has only seen HSS cutters. (Also, maybe a "HSS Basics" video would be a good idea too?) I for one am overwhelmed, so far, at the huge selection of different shapes & grades(?) of inserts and even the tools that hold the inserts.
Quick reply to this question:
HSS......get a cobalt hss. Its much tougher
Carbide for aluminum.....K68 uncoated
Carbide for steel....KC710 coated Mild steel and stainless
Insert profile depends on how many holders you plan to buy and what material you plan to cut
My GoTo holder is a TPG holder. Triangular insert with a variety of corner radii available.
Gosh I wish my swing arm worked out as well as yours! As you’d see in my vid, I had some issues with the two through holes not being on centre in the casting
Thanks for stopping by. I enjoyed your video on this part and hope you get back to your model soon.
I was lucky enough to find a Enco model 100-1525 milling machine as well 510-2584 geared head Lath in excellent condition. As my first projects after getting them in place and ready to start using them, I would love to add DROs to them both. I would love your input as to the best units I should use.
Thanks for all your explanation in your projects!
My absolute first choice is always Acu-Rite DRO's
@@joepie221 thanks!
👍👍
Joe, you might want to review your source video for glitches.. there was some artifacting near the beginning when you were looking at the drawing, and again around 15:15 while showing the bracket after it was filed down.
This is usually an issue with the compression codec used when exporting a video from an editor. The source footage is likely fine, it’s probably just a setting with interlacing or compression that needs changed for the export.
I always keeps a few thicknesses of brass shim for touching off tools.
I use a 3/8" dowel pin.
Hey Joe! Thanks for the measurements at 8:32, saved me some math lol! Great video my friend! What kind of camera(s) do you use? Roger from Calgary.
I have several depending on the shot. 2 go pro's, a nikon B500 and a moto G phone camera. The moto G capability is amazing.
Fun. Now I'll go watch Kurtis machine a bulldozer.
Joe, what type of grit and size do you use in your blaster? Oh, and air pressure? I know it depends on the base metal too. Just curious, thanks.
#6 glass bead. Small and white like fine sugar for the aluminum.
How do you decide on the pin size for the dovetail, I don't understand this method and could use learning it. Do you have video I forgot about that discusses this?
th-cam.com/video/Wc0m4BiDXGE/w-d-xo.html This video show several methods based on the dimension scheme on your part print.
@@joepie221Thanks Joe, I will
👍👍😎👍👍
You should try some Lab Metal putty to fill that tiny defect….it really is good for this kind of situation!
2 for 1
How often do you break those little taps
You don’t get any more fiddly than that fiddly part.
You are so right, the simple part can and is often complex. Now as to the defect in the large end, instead of trying to file it round, consider milling a large enough flat across that area so that it looks like it could have been a place for some option or accessory. After all, there may have been an option for a handle or bracket or something there from the factory.
I have a plan. :)
Thanks again