ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 18 พ.ค. 2023
- Start to finish repair of the most common fault with the BOSE bass module acoustimass so that you can fix your own!
Tools I use -
Soldering
Quick 861DW hot air station
Duratech TS-1640 solder iron
Multimeter
RMM760D - can be found under many name badges
Microscope
Luzky Zoom 3.5 - 90x simul-focus single boom stand trinocular stereo microscope
Camera - Lucky Zoom HD 14MP
Oscilloscopes
Siglent SDS 1102CML 100MHz 2CH
Philips PM 3305 35MHz 2CH
Thermial imaging camera
FLIR ONE PRO on android
Bench supply
Powertech MP-3086 0-30V 3A
TL866II PLUS universal EEPROM programmer - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
I have been an ardent fan of Bose for nearly a decade or more and almost owned one product in each category (headphones, earphones, wireless BT speakers, wired BT speakers, soundbar, subs etc etc). But now I detest and hate Bose. Some of Bose products recently purchased have been failing with accurate precision within 2 to 3 years, forcing us to rush to service station. Bose having charged a ton for their products are not ensuring adequate quality standards for the speaker components . What is even unbearable is, BOSE charges a hefty 25% as service fee of the product price as repair charges and provide one year warranty for the repair. No explanation is given for repair estimate or component replaced. Transparency is lacking. Even if a tiny ¢50 cent diode is replaced the repair charge for a sound bar for example may be as high as $150 dollars. Bose has lost its sheen and commitment to quality. Time has come to bin this brand.
You are the best, Jonny!!! I fixed the same problem, with your help!
Thanks for the informative video. I just repaired mine after viewing it. First ever electonics repair for me
From Tahiti French Polynesia. B2100 diode replaced by a specialist here and cost to me US $35. My Bose Bass Module 700 is working again like a charm. that's awsome. Mauruuru roa 🥰
Nice one, sounds like a good price to.
hello I replaced with a DIODE B2100A-13 F 100V-2A and everything works perfectly you absolutely have to reconnect all the cables! thank you very much for this tutorial thanks to you Jonny I didn't lose any money 🙏
Excellent job, well done!
The same problem and the same solution, thanks a lot for your tutorium!
Instead of changing ALL mainboard which cost 400$ charge and fee from Bose authorized dealer in Thailand, I decided to repair it on my own risk because it is around 5 years old and has already out of warranty and nothing to lose 😂😂😂. Finally it works!!! And it costs only 15$ for the diode and tools. Thanks!!! PS. Mine Acoustimass 300.
Worked for me! Very fiddly and a bit of a botch job as my soldering iron had too big a tip. If it stops working I'll get a smaller iron and do it properly. Thanks for the advice!
Thank you so much for the tutorial, just saved me a lot of money. Was same on my Acoustimass 300 unit.
Excellent, well done!
🥰 Thank you for this information. My bass module 300 died last week. With your information and help I have fixed it. In Germany for 0.28 € per piece and 6 € for postal shipping 🤣. Rainer
Hast du die Diode bei Reichelt bestellt oder wo gibt es die?
Ja@@ChrisStahl158
Ich habe die gleiche Frage. Bitte sag mal wo du die her hast.
Grüße
@@ChrisStahl158 b2100-13-f dii bei Reichelt - die Typen hier haben wieder meinen Link gelöscht
@@benjamins.7093 b2100-13-f dii bei Reichelt - die Typen hier haben wieder meinen Link gelöscht
Thanks you so much !
IT works for me too !!!
Thanks again
Gracias por el video. He podido arreglar mi acusticmass . Evviva!!🎉🎉
Thanks a lot
Thanks for the detailed video. Would you take in a 700 module board for diagnosing and repair? I get no power or status light.
Hi John, Great video! I have a bass module 700 that will not connect to the soundbar 700 not can it be discovered by the music app. When plugged in, the status light is solid amber. When trying to connect an 3.5 mm audio cable, the light becomes solid white but the bass module does not engage when music is played. Is this an issue with the blue tooth module of the circuit board?
I had same issue with Schottky, which I replace with similar 2A, but 60V (which shouldn't be an issue since voltage doesn't reach even 60), but now after that I have issue with 1000uF/63V capacitor which was blown (one of four that are around amplifier). Once the board is connected to the flex cable and the speaker after 3-5min capacitor was blown. I replaced it with new one which also blew up. When measuring voltage on the capacitor before connecting it back to the speaker it was 30V. Any idea which component would cause this?
Also I'm told its pointless testing diodes in circuit? What's your thoughts?
I was just shocked by the 500v from this capacitor hehe :)
Thanks for the video mate.
Have just fault-found my PCB and have found the same diode to be the problem.
Reading through the comments it seems like a lot of people are having exactly the same issue.
Why is this diode in particular the most common cause of failure?
Maybe a bad batch, maybe under rated. Hard to say. See if you get longer out of the new diode.
I have the same light status,but cannot connect to soundbar and it wont turn off when i press the button,did i installed it the wrong way?but i have the exact same status light as yours
Hi just wondering if you would have an idea or thought about working out the actual wattage is on the sub itself as Bose as we know don’t make it easy to find this information out or even share it I’m curious thanks
Get the part number off the amplifier chip and look at the datasheet, should get you pretty close.
Hey Jonny - Need a North Star on my issue - My Bose Bass Module 700 does power up, pairs with the sound bar and for some reason starts blink a red light .... Any suggestions ?
Manual says contact bose, so it must be an internal failure. I have not seen this before sorry.
Hey I got same issue. Have you solved the issue, have any suggestions?
I have this one and IT STOPPED WORKING ON ME JUST NOW!😢 the light is on, but I think the bass in plug is missed up. I was using a aux cord that was in rough shape.
Hi Johnny. I'm trying to fix my 300 with no power.
I tried replacing the B2100 diode which i think tested ok but tried anyway. I could only source a 400v 1A. Diode. Would this cause failure? I still have no power and don't know what i can do now. Don't want to ditch it but no old school repairers here 😣
1A diode might be ok for a short test but may not last long term. If you test the diode and it is ok then this is not your problem. A bad diode is a very common problem but there are many things that can fail and give you the same no power fault. You will need to keep testing things to figure it out. In answer to your other question you can almost always test a diode in circuit. The only catch is if it is open internally you might get the usual .2 - .6 voltage drop as a result of measuring something else also on that same circuit and so think it is ok. If it is short then take it off and re-test to be sure. Good luck!
@@JonnyFix thanks heaps for the advise mate. Well somehow i got it working. The 1A is still in there, but i have 2A 100V on the way. Not sure what i did to get power back, i retested several components, there was one diode which showing readings both ways. This diode was one of 4 or 5 that surround an IC iirc near the coils. After prodding around that started reading normal again. Don't not if it was that or coincidental. Either way, its pumping again.. For the moment 😂
Well done! Unfortunately I do not find the other Bose fix...could you so kind to put the link? Thanks in advance. Regards.
th-cam.com/video/jTvNLRxT8iU/w-d-xo.html
Hi Jonny, You (or anyone else) wouldn't have a higher resolution photo of the back of main board would you? Specifically I'm chasing the value written on the large resistor (next to the one that looks like its missing) on screen at 9:29 left hand side near multimeter display. Just can't quite read it on screen. Cheers
I don't sorry, hopefully someone can help. Will try remember to let you know when I see another one.
R15F
@@CharlieBaker-nj1wn Oh thank you so much Charlie. Very much appreciated.
Hi, I need your advice please can I install 3A 1000V diode instead of 2A100V? Thanks
Yes but only if it is a Schottky type diode like this one, it needs to be able to respond fast enough to the switching frequency.
As per the video i checked the diode near J401 , seems to be fine but the capacitor G1 near it have volts 4 to 8 volts, while other small cap near G1 dont have any volts across it. Also checked the main capacitor and the other cap C402 , have 300 + volts across it. But when i checked , none of the caps on sec side have voltage. Checked the switching transformer T402 and found that it does not have any voltage on pins 6 & 7. But checked pin 1 to 5 , found some pins have DC voltage on it. Please advise.
IC U401 controls the switching of the primary of T402 so first you need to know does U401 have a low voltage supply to turn it on. I think the diode I replaced creates this rail. Maybe take the diode off the board to test it just in case it isn't open and you are getting a reading from something else in circuit. When the initial 300V forms across the primary it creates the rail for this chip to run so if this doesn't happen the chip doesn't start up and keep switching the primary to maintain this rail. You can test for this on the capacitor I check at 13:45.
Thanks…will check & let u know
@@JonnyFix Hi Jonny … Thanku very much….I replaced the same diode and it worked😊👍
Hello sir now I checked the diode near J401 again and it is showing fwd bias volts 0.3 and reverse bias volts 0.6volts
Hi Jonny, my Bose Acoustimass 300 flashes pulsating white and orange. get no sound out ! What could it be ? defective circuit board ? thanks in advance for any hints
Quite likely, not seen this before myself. User manual says Unknown error. Bass module requires service.
Hey Johnny please help me to fix this one
Hi John, I replaced mine but still no light comes up, but when I plugged in the 3.5mm audio cable into the base ports light comes up but no sounds. Any ideas?
Either that part was not the fault in your case or you put it in the wrong way around or there's another problem as well.
@@JonnyFix checked the diode with multimeter is working fine , and swap a few still same issue. btw do you do repairs for customers? If you do where do you located?thx
@@jimtan4790 sorry I just do odd jobs for locals who know me
Hi johny, im having the same problem with my bose 500 subwoofer. Are you able to fixes it for me?
I'm not set up to accept mail in jobs sorry.
Ok thanks mate
Hello Sir … my BOSE 700 bass module is also not powering up
My Acoustimass 300 is flashing white/red/yellow without any sound output? Any idea what the issue might be? I have sent it to Bose repair already in March 2022 as it was not working anymore (different LED flashing, changing only from white to yellow) and they switched a SMD part. Now it is already broken again 😢
did you find the cause of the problem ?
@@rafals2041 Bose has repaired it as a gesture of goodwill as the warranty has only exeeded 2 months. Based on the repair report, an elektrolye capacitor was broken and swapped out.
Is this upfiring on the glass top
Yep
My subwoofer lasts 8 minutes working normally and then it turns off and starts restarting until it cools down again. Will it be the same problem? Will it be solved with that? Help me please
No it will be a different problem I think even if it's not overheating. I don't know what though.
My the status light is yellow and red wtf it means?
Well maybe i never saw the first one you repaired, or my memory is dodgy Rupert :-)
The question is : Why did the diddle go piff paff poof ?
Designed to fail?
Bad batch? Under rated? Oddly enough I just did a BM500, same fault but with a higher rated diode.
Hey bud how can I stop the popping and cracking noise in my bass modules 700. It’s so annoying. Bose is wrong for selling it without warning customers.
I understand I can wire it but I’ve got 2 and a splitter or y still is another problem with one of them keep disconnecting.
@@solocalvin9650 I'm not sure what causes this. If you have a wireless router turn it off and see if the noise stops. If it does, try putting more distance between the router and system. If TV is on wifi consider running a network cable to the router instead.
My Bose 300 dies when play on high volume, can it be same component problem?
If it dies after a while it might be overheating. If it dies immediately after reaching a certain volume it might be capacitors as maybe the power supply can't supply enough for the demand.
😩 'PromoSM'
Never buying Bose again. This just happened to me
No woofer shown, no like
🐕🦺