Parts/equipment/tools used are in the description. For those who want to join the discussion on the Bronco forums... Bronco Nation: thebronconation.com/bronco-how-to-n.141/how-to-bronco-factory-speaker-replacement-t.17560/ Bronco6G: www.bronco6g.com/forum/threads/how-to-factory-bronco-speaker-replacement.68888/
It's interesting that you mentioned the difference or lack thereof when replacing the kick panel speakers. My experience has also been that the dash tweeters can make a HUGE difference but replacing the factory kick panels...not so much.
So glad you made this video. I just switched out my kick panel speakers and I notice ZERO difference 😮. I’ll be adding an amp over the weekend but was shocked by how good the crappy factories actually sound “un-amped” Vs higher power rated speakers with no amp. It actually lost resonance on the low end. Edited: Added an amp last week… and man!!!! It’s night and day!
Thanks for posting this. I've replaced my rear pods to the amazon 6" pods, front 4", and have new speakers for the front 6", but I think I will hold off on doing them. The speakers I got aren't the best. I'm glad I watched this before tearing into the front kick panels.
I did the Kicker KS on my front dash panels too. I have Skar mid-woofers and 4" for the rear pods. I noticed lots of people not super happy with the Coax 6.5s in the kick panels. I have the Kicker Key 200.4 as well and while my KS 4" dash speakers can take the power, the OEM kick panels are clipping and on the verge of blowing at volume 18+ lol. I'll make a video on my Skar mid woofers and 4" rear pod speakers! One thing is for sure, I NEED to unlock the full range to the rear speakers.
I recently encountered a serious issue while upgrading the speakers on my Ford Bronco with the standard sound system, and I want to share a warning with the community. If you plan on using the METRA 72-5603 connectors for the dash and rear pod speakers, please be aware that the cables may be inverted. During my installation, I noticed that the positive cable was aligned with the negative cable, causing some confusion. To clarify, I reached out to Crutchfield support with photos, and they confirmed that the connectors may be inverted. I suggest double-checking your connectors before proceeding with your installation to avoid any potential issues. Thank you for your attention and I hope this information can help others avoid this problem.
I watched this video because I have a manual and reeeealy hate the footrest in the kick panel, (I hit it all the time while clutching.) and wondered if it is removable. Of course it's molded into the side, smh.
Great Vid. Love the detail of instruction for us newbies. I need to do something, the stock speaker set up just isn't happening. Looks like removing door may make it a little easier during install. Thanks for all the help.
Another great video. What do you know about needing forscan to make the rear speakers sound right. The factory program is holding back on the sound system so i herar that if u swap out the back to either better 4" or go with the 6. You will not get 100% of thr benifit. Thanks
Hey RK knowing what you know now what would you do with the rear pods? Leave the OEM speakers and change to full freq? Install the Kicker 4” and deliver full freq? Install 6.5” pods, either SSV or Mabett? I just did the sub-delete upgrade to 6.75 Kicker + Fusion amp and it made a world of difference. Next up are the dash speakers. The open question is the rear pods. I did get a Kicker 200.4 amp. Not sure I’m gonna use it or sell it. But that will be the last thing I install.
Currently I'm delivering full frequencies to the rear pods (Forscan mod) with the 60 Hz high-pass filter setting on the 200.4. I'm happy with my setup, but I completely understand why many people are installing 6.5" speakers in the rear pods. There are two reasons why I have not gone with 6.5" pods: 1. I wanted to retain the ability to take off my doors and load them in the rear of the vehicle. My fear is 6.5" pods would be too large and prevent that. (To be honest I don't know if they actually would or not.) 2. 6.5" rear pod enclosures are another $200+ on top of the cost of the speakers. If I decided not to install a subwoofer, then yes it would be worth it, basically mandatory. But since I did install a subwoofer, I don't think I'll see a big enough improvement to warrant spending another $200+.
@@RagnarKon i understand. Thx for the insight. Not sure about doors+ 6.5s. But from my perspective after having taken the doors off and ripping around dirt roads, I don’t think I’d stow them in the back. Too much risk of damage. Plus the fronts are heavy!! I was happy leaning them against the side of the house. In the door bags of course. The Ford door bags are worth the price. Really well made. The no-door/roof dust makes it under the trim parts. Found a lot when I went to install the sub. :).
I know you have the base sound system in your bronco. I know that with the BNO system the rear speakers are underpowered out of the factory. Do you happen to know what setting we can use to boost the output on the rear BNO speakers. I saw post of a guy who did it. I cannot seem to find the post again. If you know can you let know.
Hopeful someone can help me with a Audio issue. I replaced all my speakers with Kicker. Installed kicker key 200.4 for the front and rear pods. Kicker key 500.1 and sub in factory location. Also upgraded to 12 inch factory screen. Did the forscan to turn on speakers. My issue is that it sounds great after the audio tech does some tuning. Next day bass is crap. I've had take it back to the tech 3 times. Not sure why it's doing this. Any suggestions?
so i bought a new cadillac CT5 sport and the speakers sounds average, i'm use to the traditional ATS 15 bose speaker sound that was really great. These new cadilacs don't sound good at all and i'm thinking of doing a swap. I need help guys thanks
Nice video, I have the Bronco with the “dummy” amp & sub, there is an electric/audio plug on the side of the dummy amp, do you know if that is live? Could I hook my JL amp to that for the signal/power? Thanks for your help.
It is not live by default, but you can turn it on with Forscan. You can use those lines to power a JL amp, but there is limitations due to the wire gauge and whatnot. I have details in my Forscan video and my subwoofer videos. Check the playlist here: th-cam.com/play/PLVmG8Eo83Z5avY5JrCMbJBJStdUjLzDMA.html
How waterproof are speakers typically? For example if the top was off and rain came would it be better to install a "marine audio" system or am I stupid?
It depends on the cone material & construction. But generally speaking they can handle a light drizzle for a 5-10 minutes, but if you think there is a chance you'll be caught in the rain you may want to consider marine speakers. My favorite marine speakers are Polk Audio's DB series (DB402/DB652), but obviously there are lots of options out there.
In most “normal” car audio setups you have a midrange/midbass/woofer speaker in the door panel and a tweeter on the dash or A-pillar. The thought with the bass blockers is to kinda-sorta recreate that setup using bass blockers, effectively making the 4” dash speakers more tweeter-like. On top of that, the factory speakers had a 400Hz bass blockers on them. But I ended up removing those bass blockers in a later video. th-cam.com/video/mdQeaN9CFPw/w-d-xo.html
My settings below... may have to modify it a bit depending on your exact setup. Auto Turn-on - DC Fader - Off Compression - Off Bi-Amp Mode - Off Kicker EQ - Enabled Time Delay - Enabled High-Pass Filter - 60Hz Gains are both set to their minimum values.
Honestly, I cannot believe they made speakers this difficult to switch out. I love my Bronco but American automakers need to get better about shit like this
My hunch is that adding an amp will be the biggest "bang for your buck". I added the amp (got a diff video for that) and it absolutely wakes up the aftermarket speakers I installed... so I am reasonably confident it'll help the factory speakers as well. I will say aftermarket speakers were kind of disappointing without the amplifier, so if you aren't sure where to start, I would probably start with the amp and decide later if you need to swap the speakers as well.
Absolutely, I bought the kicker key 200.4 and still have all stock speakers and without question it’s a huge improvement. I’ve read numerous posts from people who swapped speakers and the kicker key and they all said if you have to just do one mod that you should do the kicker key over any of the speakers.
Replacing the kick panel speakers was the worst thing I tried, the factory kick panels are fine tuned to the sound system and swaping them for Kickers took away any kind of bass response, so be warned. I replaced my dash, and rear speakers with kickers and get a decent balance of mids, highs with the stock kick panel speakers.
The dash speaker grilles are around $25. Part no: M2DZ-18978-xx xx = varies based on whether it is the left or right side. Your dealer's part counter should be able to look it up.
I is likely possible to take the old speaker out without popping out the side panel, but it would be difficult to get the new speaker in due to the way the speaker cable has to be routed. Certainly worth a try though. If it doesn't work no harm.
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Parts/equipment/tools used are in the description.
For those who want to join the discussion on the Bronco forums...
Bronco Nation:
thebronconation.com/bronco-how-to-n.141/how-to-bronco-factory-speaker-replacement-t.17560/
Bronco6G:
www.bronco6g.com/forum/threads/how-to-factory-bronco-speaker-replacement.68888/
broooo, when the camera fell and you go "you okayyy." I lost it, straight up cackling. Good stuff my guy.
Thanks so much for putting all the effort into your videos. Great content.
It's interesting that you mentioned the difference or lack thereof when replacing the kick panel speakers. My experience has also been that the dash tweeters can make a HUGE difference but replacing the factory kick panels...not so much.
Thanks RK! Let us know how it all turns out after you install the amp & subwoofer. Much appreciated!
So glad you made this video. I just switched out my kick panel speakers and I notice ZERO difference 😮. I’ll be adding an amp over the weekend but was shocked by how good the crappy factories actually sound “un-amped” Vs higher power rated speakers with no amp. It actually lost resonance on the low end.
Edited:
Added an amp last week… and man!!!! It’s night and day!
Thanks for posting this. I've replaced my rear pods to the amazon 6" pods, front 4", and have new speakers for the front 6", but I think I will hold off on doing them. The speakers I got aren't the best. I'm glad I watched this before tearing into the front kick panels.
Thanks for the video, bro. Damn, I dread getting into that kick panel. Might leave those.
I did the Kicker KS on my front dash panels too. I have Skar mid-woofers and 4" for the rear pods. I noticed lots of people not super happy with the Coax 6.5s in the kick panels. I have the Kicker Key 200.4 as well and while my KS 4" dash speakers can take the power, the OEM kick panels are clipping and on the verge of blowing at volume 18+ lol.
I'll make a video on my Skar mid woofers and 4" rear pod speakers! One thing is for sure, I NEED to unlock the full range to the rear speakers.
I recently encountered a serious issue while upgrading the speakers on my Ford Bronco with the standard sound system, and I want to share a warning with the community. If you plan on using the METRA 72-5603 connectors for the dash and rear pod speakers, please be aware that the cables may be inverted.
During my installation, I noticed that the positive cable was aligned with the negative cable, causing some confusion. To clarify, I reached out to Crutchfield support with photos, and they confirmed that the connectors may be inverted. I suggest double-checking your connectors before proceeding with your installation to avoid any potential issues.
Thank you for your attention and I hope this information can help others avoid this problem.
Thank you for taking the time to make this video, very helpful
Thanks! I have the same parts sitting in my garage just waiting for me to get a free afternoon to do this.
Fun Fact: Some 2023 Ford Bronco's have a the rear sub woofer and amplifier fake.
I watched this video because I have a manual and reeeealy hate the footrest in the kick panel, (I hit it all the time while clutching.) and wondered if it is removable. Of course it's molded into the side, smh.
This an absolute project, I thought this would be a lil easier to swap.
Great Vid. Love the detail of instruction for us newbies. I need to do something, the stock speaker set up just isn't happening. Looks like removing door may make it a little easier during install. Thanks for all the help.
Another great video. What do you know about needing forscan to make the rear speakers sound right. The factory program is holding back on the sound system so i herar that if u swap out the back to either better 4" or go with the 6. You will not get 100% of thr benifit. Thanks
Hey RK knowing what you know now what would you do with the rear pods? Leave the OEM speakers and change to full freq? Install the Kicker 4” and deliver full freq? Install 6.5” pods, either SSV or Mabett?
I just did the sub-delete upgrade to 6.75 Kicker + Fusion amp and it made a world of difference. Next up are the dash speakers. The open question is the rear pods.
I did get a Kicker 200.4 amp. Not sure I’m gonna use it or sell it. But that will be the last thing I install.
Currently I'm delivering full frequencies to the rear pods (Forscan mod) with the 60 Hz high-pass filter setting on the 200.4.
I'm happy with my setup, but I completely understand why many people are installing 6.5" speakers in the rear pods. There are two reasons why I have not gone with 6.5" pods:
1. I wanted to retain the ability to take off my doors and load them in the rear of the vehicle. My fear is 6.5" pods would be too large and prevent that. (To be honest I don't know if they actually would or not.)
2. 6.5" rear pod enclosures are another $200+ on top of the cost of the speakers. If I decided not to install a subwoofer, then yes it would be worth it, basically mandatory. But since I did install a subwoofer, I don't think I'll see a big enough improvement to warrant spending another $200+.
@@RagnarKon i understand. Thx for the insight. Not sure about doors+ 6.5s. But from my perspective after having taken the doors off and ripping around dirt roads, I don’t think I’d stow them in the back. Too much risk of damage. Plus the fronts are heavy!! I was happy leaning them against the side of the house. In the door bags of course. The Ford door bags are worth the price. Really well made.
The no-door/roof dust makes it under the trim parts. Found a lot when I went to install the sub. :).
Don't feel bad, I broke that same tab on the driver's side dash grille too.
Always at least one plastic clip casualty on these projects... *sigh*
@@RagnarKon I hear you. I am still looking for a reasonably priced source for the replacement plastic clips.
I know you have the base sound system in your bronco. I know that with the BNO system the rear speakers are underpowered out of the factory. Do you happen to know what setting we can use to boost the output on the rear BNO speakers. I saw post of a guy who did it. I cannot seem to find the post again. If you know can you let know.
Hopeful someone can help me with a Audio issue. I replaced all my speakers with Kicker. Installed kicker key 200.4 for the front and rear pods. Kicker key 500.1 and sub in factory location. Also upgraded to 12 inch factory screen. Did the forscan to turn on speakers. My issue is that it sounds great after the audio tech does some tuning. Next day bass is crap. I've had take it back to the tech 3 times. Not sure why it's doing this. Any suggestions?
Why don't the kick panel speakers have the bass blocker added in the new wiring harness?
I'm 100 sure the audio dealers break this stuff rig it up and keep going
so i bought a new cadillac CT5 sport and the speakers sounds average, i'm use to the traditional ATS 15 bose speaker sound that was really great. These new cadilacs don't sound good at all and i'm thinking of doing a swap. I need help guys thanks
Kicker is entry level...
Do I have to recalibrate the speakers after install? Putting in SSV Works in rear and Kicker in Front.
You can if you want-it definitely helps the rear speakers. I have a video on that: th-cam.com/video/EyE0TFVZzF0/w-d-xo.html
Nice video, I have the Bronco with the “dummy” amp & sub, there is an electric/audio plug on the side of the dummy amp, do you know if that is live? Could I hook my JL amp to that for the signal/power? Thanks for your help.
It is not live by default, but you can turn it on with Forscan. You can use those lines to power a JL amp, but there is limitations due to the wire gauge and whatnot.
I have details in my Forscan video and my subwoofer videos. Check the playlist here: th-cam.com/play/PLVmG8Eo83Z5avY5JrCMbJBJStdUjLzDMA.html
How waterproof are speakers typically? For example if the top was off and rain came would it be better to install a "marine audio" system or am I stupid?
It depends on the cone material & construction. But generally speaking they can handle a light drizzle for a 5-10 minutes, but if you think there is a chance you'll be caught in the rain you may want to consider marine speakers.
My favorite marine speakers are Polk Audio's DB series (DB402/DB652), but obviously there are lots of options out there.
any specific reason you used bass blockers for the front dash speakers?
In most “normal” car audio setups you have a midrange/midbass/woofer speaker in the door panel and a tweeter on the dash or A-pillar.
The thought with the bass blockers is to kinda-sorta recreate that setup using bass blockers, effectively making the 4” dash speakers more tweeter-like. On top of that, the factory speakers had a 400Hz bass blockers on them.
But I ended up removing those bass blockers in a later video. th-cam.com/video/mdQeaN9CFPw/w-d-xo.html
Can you send a picture of how you set the pins for the kicker key 200 you installed? I installed one on my bronco and can’t figure it out.
My settings below... may have to modify it a bit depending on your exact setup.
Auto Turn-on - DC
Fader - Off
Compression - Off
Bi-Amp Mode - Off
Kicker EQ - Enabled
Time Delay - Enabled
High-Pass Filter - 60Hz
Gains are both set to their minimum values.
@@RagnarKon thank you for that. i enjoy your content and its the reason i did the upgrade to my bronco. very helpful.
A big huge middle finger to ford for putting a crap system in these trucks and making it a cluster muck for diyers to upgrade
Honestly, I cannot believe they made speakers this difficult to switch out. I love my Bronco but American automakers need to get better about shit like this
My driver side on the badlands was not the same.
Question: Will I notice a big difference if I keep all 6 of the factory speakers and only add an Amp?
My hunch is that adding an amp will be the biggest "bang for your buck". I added the amp (got a diff video for that) and it absolutely wakes up the aftermarket speakers I installed... so I am reasonably confident it'll help the factory speakers as well.
I will say aftermarket speakers were kind of disappointing without the amplifier, so if you aren't sure where to start, I would probably start with the amp and decide later if you need to swap the speakers as well.
Absolutely, I bought the kicker key 200.4 and still have all stock speakers and without question it’s a huge improvement. I’ve read numerous posts from people who swapped speakers and the kicker key and they all said if you have to just do one mod that you should do the kicker key over any of the speakers.
Where did you get that connector kit from?
Replacing the kick panel speakers was the worst thing I tried, the factory kick panels are fine tuned to the sound system and swaping them for Kickers took away any kind of bass response, so be warned. I replaced my dash, and rear speakers with kickers and get a decent balance of mids, highs with the stock kick panel speakers.
heres a sound sample with the top down. th-cam.com/video/zrjxQnLwHhA/w-d-xo.html
Yeah replacing the kick panels did nothing and is completely pointless unless you get an amp. 100% agree.
I've also broken clips on my dash speaker and kick panel covers. I don't know how to avoid it. Has anyone priced replacement speaker covers?
The dash speaker grilles are around $25.
Part no:
M2DZ-18978-xx
xx = varies based on whether it is the left or right side. Your dealer's part counter should be able to look it up.
What straps are you using for your fire extinguisher?
It is from a company called Bartact: www.bartact.com/
It looks like you could have popped out the speaker cover and gotten to the speaker without popping out the entire panel. Possible?!? @ILoveToDrive
I is likely possible to take the old speaker out without popping out the side panel, but it would be difficult to get the new speaker in due to the way the speaker cable has to be routed.
Certainly worth a try though. If it doesn't work no harm.
33:33 Old ford door open sound
Matbe could have had some friends pitch in 2 HELP??
Good grief. I'll pay to have them installed.