Link to forum threads packed with tons of added information... Bronco6G www.bronco6g.com/forum/threads/how-to-factory-subwoofer-install-upgrade.73215/ Bronco Nation thebronconation.com/bronco-how-to-n.141/how-to-replacing-your-factory-subwoofer-t.18117/
Really nice work! Definitely the premier video(s) for showing us newbies how to get started on installing a killer system into our Bronco. Thanks for all the hard work and ENJOY your tunes.
I commented on your last video, this is the exact setup I did, but for the subwoofer to fit I just pried off the plastic ring for the screw holes on the sub and it fits perfect, it’s just adhesive holding it on, sub fits perfect then. Also ended up moving the amp to under the passenger seat with the new stinger mount because the panel never fit properly and couldn’t adjust it if I wanted to. Sound deadened the whole inside and out will help make it sound better and help eliminate rattles.
Thank you for the advice! I just did what you said to do. The ring was a little tough to get off, used a thin flat head screwdriver to get in between the metal and plastic. I also had to saw off the tab at the bottom of the sun enclosure to allow the kicker sub to sit flush. Used T-tap connectors to add wires instead of cutting off the OEM connectors like the video above. Bass Sounds very clean now even with the B&O amp. No more rattles either! Thank you again, you saved me from sawing into the enclosure like the video above. So much easier taking off the ring!
@@steves7224no I just added foam double sided tape all along the rim of the speaker and it sealed any unused holes. From what I remember I used some of the factory holes. It was just a small tab I cut off to make it fit. That and the connections were the only mods I had to do to make it fit.
Great job, and video. I have a ‘23, but missed your other video by a week and ended up ripping out the dummy sub enclosure and was able to fit a HS10 in the area. Tested and sounds great, will need the bass blockers for the dash speakers though.
I did this and got insane rattling. The hole I cut also had some air gaps and wasnt as clean as yours. I decided to just go with the MTI tailgate sub and 12 in JL. Sounds amazing in comparison. The kicker was good, just seemed a bit limited. Thanks for the video. It helped me out a lot when I was doing it this past weekend. Enjoy your set up!
Oooo... no rattling for me yet, but it's only been about a week. BUT, I think for those folks who _truly_ want amazing audio, the tailgate subwoofer setup is definitely the best option. I just have plans to mount other stuff on the tailgate, so it was a no-go for me. I'm not going for "amazing" audio. If I can get it on-par or slightly better than the B&O setup (for much cheaper than the Lux package), that'll be a big win for me.
@@RagnarKon Yep, totally agree with you on that one. I also wasnt going for a superior sound, just something enjoyable. I guess the hole I did was just to janky so had really bad air gaps causing the issue. After messing around for 2 weeks I gave in. I almost decided to go with the stealth box just released but cost didnt make sense. Well onto the next mod right? haha.
@@JP-vz2qn Once I saw the Stealthbox price... I'm glad I didn't wait for it. I was worried I would regret my choice by going with the B&O enclosure, but I could buy 3-4 B&O enclosures for the price of the Stealthbox. Right now my problem is the front dash speakers are overpowering everything else in the Bronco... so I need to get that taken care of (parts on the way). Once I do I should be able to dial in the subwoofer and decide if this idea was a good one or not.
@@RagnarKon What setting did you do in Forscan? I followed your post about the settings on 6g, but ended up coding the first set of numbers to 3800 . I believe it gives me a more well rounded sound. I didn't add the key 500.4 like you though, so maybe wont help since I think you did the auto calibration. I also went with Alpines in the front dash and for balance in the console, I moved the focus area to about where the headrest are. not sure if that will help any but my sound for speakers is pretty even.
@@JP-vz2qn I simply disabled the EQ-no other changes. Again, not everything is dialed in yet... so I may make some further tweaks... but thus far all I've done is disable the EQ.
Did you close the port/vent? It needs to be sealed off and the difference will be night and day. The OEM box is ~0.4 cu ft. See specs below: sealed box volume: 0.2 - 1.0 cu. ft. ported box volume: 0.8 - 1.2 cu. ft.
Yeah I talked about sealed vs ported in another video- th-cam.com/video/mdQeaN9CFPw/w-d-xo.html I actually left mine ported after experimenting with it for a few weeks, as I thought it sounded better ported. But I'll admit that is definitely "wrong" based on Kicker's specification sheet.
I did the exact same thing.put in an order march 3rd for stinger swinggate sub and couldn’t wait so I put in another amp and the kicker sub but got nasty rattling I found out it was the locking mechanism of the seatbelt so I had to wait for the stinger to come in and once that was in I relied more on the stinger and the kicker sub was supplemental but now I have no rattling whatsoever
This was a good idea. I just wish the ford enclosure was a bit sturdier. When I added the kicker sub and put an ACM 1.300 behind it, it was so leaky it was like putting your mouth into a tennis show and blowing as hard as you can.
If you have to go touch the subwoofer to see if it’s working, then it’s not much of an upgrade from the B&O woofer. Plus, speakers need a specific volume to work, and that small enclosure is too small (and thin plastic) for it to work properly. Hopefully it’s a tiny bit better.
I was starting to dial in everything today, and... yeah... you may be right. I was thinking the same thing earlier. I did stuff a towel into the port quickly just to see what it sounded like, and it sounded like total garbage. But definitely need to play around with it more.
Nice job on fabricating the stock B&O box for the kicker! Question, have read where folks are putting some sort of poly fill into the sub enclosure, as well as applying Dynamat to outside of box…would you recommend either? Appreciate your help here and over at 6g👍
Polyfill generally speaking can smooth out the bass a bit and make the everything a little more efficient. But in a vehicle as loud as the Bronco you probably won’t notice a difference honestly. Polyfill is pretty cheap though, so no harm in buying some and experimenting with it. Dynamat, on the other hand, will help quite a bit by reducing vibrations caused by the subwoofer, and also toning down a lot of the road noise the Bronco has. So I would recommend Dynamat. That said… it all depends on what you’re going for, how much optimization you want to do, how much time/money you want to spend, etc. etc. For me, I was going for equal to or better than the Lux package while keeping it under $1000 total. So I’m not going for some super high-end setup that’s perfectly dialed in. If I was, I wouldn’t have used the B&O enclosure, as it is undersized for the 8” Kicker sub I selected. I just wanted something better than stock, and I wanted to be able to easily add additional mods to the cargo area in the future. Therefore I didn’t use any polyfill or Dynamat, even though I know they would help. I got another video where I start dialing everything in-may give you a better idea about what you want to do: th-cam.com/video/mdQeaN9CFPw/w-d-xo.html
Great well thought out and detailed vid. Here is my question as i didnt see your other videos. If you are using an amp for thr subwoofer,i am assuming you have no amp on the rest of the system or u coukd have used that amp to power the subwoofer as well? So far all inhave done on my 23 wildtrac is change the dash spealers to JL ac -100 and boy what a diffrence. I havent changers the rear pods yet as they are so far from the driver that i dont know if i will hear any difference? Thoughts?
Thanks again, if I understand correctly, the amplifier of the b&o subwoofer can't only operate the Kicker subwoofer and the amplifier must be replaced as well (can't the original amplifier operate the subwoofer?) Thanks for your help
The front left and front right are 2-way coaxials. Ford's advertising wizards are labeling that as 2 speakers each, which brings the total up to 10. Personally... I disagree... but I guess if I'm being honest most people in the general public likely have no idea what 2-way coaxials are. So I guess it makes sense?
Yes I did. The thing I really wanted was the DSP/EQ functionality, and unfortunately Kicker didn't have any waterproof amplifiers that had DSP/EQ functionality built in that fit within the $1000 budget I gave myself for this upgrade.
OK. I watched your vids a hundred times or so..lol, and bought all the goodies for the install (with a few differences). A few questions. 1. What is the thickness of the HDPE sheet for the amp bracket? 2. Crutchfield suggested I go with the 6 3/4 Kicker Sub (not sure why) and indicated I would have to wire in series not parallel. The Kicker is the Kicker 48CWRT672 with dual 2 ohm voice coils. I'm using the Motorcraft pigtail WPT 1016. Should I wire in series or parallel, and if series, do you have diagram? 3. What gauge is the speaker wire for sub-woofer connect? Also I notice you have color coded speaker wire - where did you purchase? I'm going to give it a go. Let's see what happens. I'll start with vid#1 and follow along. Thanks again for all the detail for us first timers.
1. The HDPE sheet I had was 1/4-inch thick. 1/8-inch sheets would also work-you may actually be better off with that thickness to be honest, but my local hardware store didn't have sheets that thin. 2. Crutchfield is suggesting a 6-3/4 inch Kicker sub wired in series because they are assuming the standard 2023MY enclosure and the factory amplifier. The standard base audio enclosure is 170mm... or just shy of 6-3/4 inches. And the factory amplifier isn't all that powerful, which is why they are recommending series. I personally used the B&O subwoofer enclosure that's included in the Lux package, which is a 200mm enclosure (or just shy of 8-inches). It should also be noted that the B&O enclosure is the only enclosure that uses the WPT-1016, so if you are using the standard 2023 enclosure, you won't need that pigtail. 3. I just used 16-gauge stranded wire I had sitting around from a past project. Nothing special.
@RagnarKon thanks. I'm using the same B+O enclosure. Can I keep existing speaker, or should I switch to 4 ohms dual, 8" I'm thinking the 6 3/4 2 should work if wired correctly.
@@nmdelninno If you bought the B&O enclosure (or bought the Lux package) it comes with a 200mm dual 4-ohm subwoofer already installed. I swapped mine out for a Kicker 8" dual 4-ohm subwoofer. You can use a 6-3/4 subwoofer if you want, but it won't mount inside of the B&O enclosure-6-3/4 is too small. So you'll need to build an adapter bracket out of the HDPE if you want to use the smaller subwoofer.
I’m reference to the MY23 six speaker setup with fake sub and amp, when you say the wiring is there do you mean the long harness? TIA. Looking to add sub/amp next week.
I'm trying to figure out how to handle the pocket in the rear panel. I notice you have a speaker grill there in the video. Did you cut out your stock rear panel pocket and install a speaker cover grill?
I installed a whole new panel... which was pricey and I wouldn't necessarily recommend. If you check my previous video it goes into a little more info about the panel: th-cam.com/video/nmFy1GgvJ1Q/w-d-xo.html
Hi, thanks for the video, it's very helpful, a small question, if I have the model with 10 b&o speakers, is it possible to change the subwoofer to the kicker and leave the original amplifier for it? Thanks for answers
Yes, but you may have trouble finding a spot to mount the Kicker amplifier. The spot where I mounted by Kicker is the same spot where the factory B&O amp is mounted.
This is my dummy 23 sub. Do I need this wired star screwed connection or cut it. I’m trying to use the exist wiring and sub enclosure….well I can’t seem to share photos. I’m oblivious.🤠
It's been a long time since doing any real stereo installs but wondering if the Key 500.1 sees the actual ohm level that is wired to it since it is a mono amp ? Back in the day if you bridged a stereo amplifier it would be running at 2ohms if you had a 4 ohm load wired to it but the dedicated mono amps would just see the 4ohm load. Since you used a dual 4ohm voice coil sub wired in parallel to create a 2ohm load, I assume the amp is running at 2ohms . So @300 watts output max. Is that correct ?
@@RagnarKon Cool , just trying to nail down the correct components to order for my 2023 . Looks like I will go with the same sub and amp as mine has the box with fake sub and amp already. May run another speaker lead to a panel mount quick connect on the trim panel to throw another 8" sub in the back when I'm feeling a little more boomy :) See what it does with two subs at 1ohm . Thanks for the video content.
@@rydfree Just a heads-up in case you were not already aware: If you got the 2023MY with the base audio system, the 8" sub doesn't fit. The enclosure I have is the B&O enclosure included with the Lux package, but the base audio enclosure is slightly different and only really fits a 6.75" subwoofer. Granted I'm sure you could modify it to fit the 8" sub, but not sure how difficult that would be. Would have to hit the forums to see what others have done on their 2023MY Broncos.
I just bought one from Ford dealership. The shipping box has the part number M2DZ-1808-H, or now L. The actual part enclosure has a part number M2DT-19A067-AA. The parts department says it's the same part and will fit Bronco. Haven't tried it yet, but looks the same.
Did you use a LOC? I'm looking at an AudioControl LC7i, but it's pretty big. Any suggestions on where to mount? Or maybe another LOC with same capabilities?
No. If I was going for a high-end setup I would have (and also bought better amps). But I put myself on a budget, and one of the reasons why I bought the Kicker Key amps was to avoid having to buy a LOC.
Got it. I was hoping to keep on a budget but went to an audio house and ended up with a higher end recommendation. I'm really trying to get up to speed on install (since labor to install would be more than parts ($1500). The side panel part you are referencing was $650, so if I can cut out I definitely save cash. Looks like I'm headed down a blend of doing what I can figure out myself, and pro install assistance. APPRECIATE THE HELP.@@RagnarKon
Hi Ragnar, do you know if the b&o sub is a true 8 inch? You mentioned the one you have was slightly off.. I wonder if anyone is making custom enclosures to fit a true 8 inch? I, too, love the stock look. This is the way.
It is not a true 8". I didn't know it at the time I made this video, but I found out after my most recent video that it is a considered to be a 200mm subwoofer-comes out to be 7.87 inches. There may be _some_ 8" aftermarket subwoofers that fit inside the enclosure, but I suspect for most of them you'll have to modify the enclosure like I did. There is a company called Gearshade that is making an aftermarket 8" box that is very promising, but they are having production issues currently. And JL Audio recently released their 10" enclosure called the "Stealthbox" that looks awesome, but is also extremely pricey (over double what I paid).
@@RagnarKon Very valuable information here Ragnar, I'm a bit of an audiophile and I know the B&O system wont cut it. My Bronco is being build on the 9th and I'm trying to get ahead of all the mods I want to implement. Please keep tinkering and making videos, you will grow this channel fast! Thank you for everything good sir.
8 inch. To help out with measurements: From the factory the the B&O system enclosure (which is what I bought) has a 200mm subwoofer, or 7.87 inches. The base audio system enclosure in 2023+ Broncos has a 170mm subwoofer, or 6.69 inches.
I got a 48CWRT84 to install in my mustang (with no sub) it worked good for about 3 months then the wires of the terminals got broken or some shit... how bout yours?
Very good question. I cut that part out of the final video because I explained it very poorly. Hard to explain it while in the middle of actually doing it. I probably should have just re-shot it or done voice-over or something so folks had that info. You can change the multimeter to test voltage and then lightly push on the speaker cone to see what kind of voltage is induced. Depending on if that voltage is positive or negative you can tell what your polarities are. THAT SAID, the easiest way is probably to get a AA battery. Lightly touch the speaker leads to the AA battery, and you can figure out what your positive and negative is depending on which direction the cone moves. It the speaker cone moves out, then your positive will be connected to the battery positive, and negative will be connect to the battery negative. If the cone sucks in, then it's opposite. For larger speakers (like subwoofers) you may have to use a 9V battery instead to actually see it move.
It was around $200 when I bought it ~10 months ago, but prices vary all the time. When I bought it there was no aftermarket options, but now are a few available. JL Audio Stealthbox is probably the most popular option, and it comes with a subwoofer speaker already. You can also just modify the 2023MY factory housing that you have to fit an 8" subwoofer. From the factory it is a 170mm (6.75-in) housing, but nothing stopping you from making the hole larger.
Unfortunately... no where. They're having supply chain issues, and the Kicker Key isn't expected to be back in stock until late 2023 into 2024. There are a handful of alternatives available. The only one I've personally used and can vouch for is the AudioControl ACM-4.300.
@@RagnarKon dude! Thank you for such a quick reply! I have a couple more questions about helping the stock system in our 2023 outer banks. What's the best way to reach you?
@@GCharlesE Bronco6G.com or TheBroncoNation.com under the username "RagnarKon" is the easiest way to contact me. I'm also on the /r/FordBronco subreddit's Discord server.
Yes it does. The cargo side panel is obviously designed a little differently on 2-door model, so you might have to get a little creative with how you mount the Kicker Key 500.1 (assuming that's the amplifier you've selected), but the subwoofer enclosure itself is the same. I've also heard that MZDZ-18808-H was replaced by a new part number: M2DZ-18808-L. So if you're having trouble finding the "H" part, check for the "L" part. I do not know what is difference between the two is, but according to Ford's internal parts system the "L" part is a direct replacement for the "H" part.
Not sure yours had a different part number on the actual enclosure, but the box had your part number, and the part had M2DT-19A067-AA. Looks the same. Picked up today. @@RagnarKon
@@nmdelninno Yup, Ford parts have two different numbers: A Service Number and an Engineering Number. The Engineering Number is used internally inside of Ford's engineering departments, and is what is usually listed on the part itself. The Service Number is used by customers, dealers, mechanics, etc. to actually order the part. That's the part number on the box. Ford dealerships have the ability to cross-reference those parts numbers. So if you have a part with an engineering number on it, you can ask your dealership to look up the service number and get it ordered.
I do not, just not setup to do it properly. I don’t mind helping other people out or providing some guidance with their own upgrades (kind of the point of this YT channel). But I don’t have the free time or facilities to be able to work on other people’s vehicles.
Yes you can! The remote line is biased for 6 volts instead of 12 volts, so if your amplifier is expecting 12 volts for the remote turn-on line you'll need something like a PAC TR-4 to bring it up to 12 volts.
@@Jaxon327 Black = Ground Yellow = Power. I recommend tapping into the factory amplifier power, which should be a slightly thicker Yellow/Red wire Green = From the factory enable. Yellow/Violet wire Blue = To the amp enable on you aftermarket amplifier
Does anyone know if there is room on the otherside in the same spot for another sub while routing the cables to the same amp if the correct one is bought?
The trailer tow module is mounted on the other side, so if you have tow package that'll be in the way. The trim panel on that side also has a storage pocket that consumes much of the space. It's definitely possible to mount a sub on that side, but you won't have the same amount of space as you do on the passenger side.
If you ignore the stupidly expensive gigantic plastic side panel that I shouldn't have bought... It was around $530 to do the subwoofer. The subwoofer, amplifier, enclosure, wiring, etc. The entire audio upgrade project was just shy of $1200.
Sure spend more money when they could out it in so its a goid one to begin with its ridiculous how much these vehicles cost ridiculous ford just ridiculous ive been a fird man all my life but no more ur charging too much money for nothing and then u want everyone to buy upgrades what bs waje u people these o Prices are out of line and putting in inferior products so u will soend more money getting a good one when ut should have been put in to begin with😢
Link to forum threads packed with tons of added information...
Bronco6G
www.bronco6g.com/forum/threads/how-to-factory-subwoofer-install-upgrade.73215/
Bronco Nation
thebronconation.com/bronco-how-to-n.141/how-to-replacing-your-factory-subwoofer-t.18117/
Hey there! Really like your video! You may be interested in sponsorship?
Someone should have created a 3D printed subwoofer adaptor ring for that enclosure.
Really nice work! Definitely the premier video(s) for showing us newbies how to get started on installing a killer system into our Bronco. Thanks for all the hard work and ENJOY your tunes.
I commented on your last video, this is the exact setup I did, but for the subwoofer to fit I just pried off the plastic ring for the screw holes on the sub and it fits perfect, it’s just adhesive holding it on, sub fits perfect then. Also ended up moving the amp to under the passenger seat with the new stinger mount because the panel never fit properly and couldn’t adjust it if I wanted to. Sound deadened the whole inside and out will help make it sound better and help eliminate rattles.
Thank you for the advice! I just did what you said to do. The ring was a little tough to get off, used a thin flat head screwdriver to get in between the metal and plastic. I also had to saw off the tab at the bottom of the sun enclosure to allow the kicker sub to sit flush. Used T-tap connectors to add wires instead of cutting off the OEM connectors like the video above. Bass Sounds very clean now even with the B&O amp. No more rattles either! Thank you again, you saved me from sawing into the enclosure like the video above. So much easier taking off the ring!
@@MexicanSuperDude What ohm did you go with to keep using the B&O amp?
@@MexicanSuperDude did you seal up the original screw holes for the B&O when you mounted the kicker?
@bradalan81 did you seal up the original sub enclosure screw mounting holes?
@@steves7224no I just added foam double sided tape all along the rim of the speaker and it sealed any unused holes. From what I remember I used some of the factory holes. It was just a small tab I cut off to make it fit. That and the connections were the only mods I had to do to make it fit.
My 2023 Bronco had the subwoofer delete. I just put the real stuff in. Your video was very helpful!
Great job, and video. I have a ‘23, but missed your other video by a week and ended up ripping out the dummy sub enclosure and was able to fit a HS10 in the area. Tested and sounds great, will need the bass blockers for the dash speakers though.
I did this and got insane rattling. The hole I cut also had some air gaps and wasnt as clean as yours. I decided to just go with the MTI tailgate sub and 12 in JL. Sounds amazing in comparison. The kicker was good, just seemed a bit limited. Thanks for the video. It helped me out a lot when I was doing it this past weekend. Enjoy your set up!
Oooo... no rattling for me yet, but it's only been about a week. BUT, I think for those folks who _truly_ want amazing audio, the tailgate subwoofer setup is definitely the best option.
I just have plans to mount other stuff on the tailgate, so it was a no-go for me. I'm not going for "amazing" audio. If I can get it on-par or slightly better than the B&O setup (for much cheaper than the Lux package), that'll be a big win for me.
@@RagnarKon Yep, totally agree with you on that one. I also wasnt going for a superior sound, just something enjoyable. I guess the hole I did was just to janky so had really bad air gaps causing the issue. After messing around for 2 weeks I gave in. I almost decided to go with the stealth box just released but cost didnt make sense. Well onto the next mod right? haha.
@@JP-vz2qn Once I saw the Stealthbox price... I'm glad I didn't wait for it. I was worried I would regret my choice by going with the B&O enclosure, but I could buy 3-4 B&O enclosures for the price of the Stealthbox.
Right now my problem is the front dash speakers are overpowering everything else in the Bronco... so I need to get that taken care of (parts on the way). Once I do I should be able to dial in the subwoofer and decide if this idea was a good one or not.
@@RagnarKon What setting did you do in Forscan? I followed your post about the settings on 6g, but ended up coding the first set of numbers to 3800 . I believe it gives me a more well rounded sound. I didn't add the key 500.4 like you though, so maybe wont help since I think you did the auto calibration. I also went with Alpines in the front dash and for balance in the console, I moved the focus area to about where the headrest are. not sure if that will help any but my sound for speakers is pretty even.
@@JP-vz2qn I simply disabled the EQ-no other changes.
Again, not everything is dialed in yet... so I may make some further tweaks... but thus far all I've done is disable the EQ.
Did you close the port/vent? It needs to be sealed off and the difference will be night and day. The OEM box is ~0.4 cu ft. See specs below: sealed box volume: 0.2 - 1.0 cu. ft.
ported box volume: 0.8 - 1.2 cu. ft.
Yeah I talked about sealed vs ported in another video- th-cam.com/video/mdQeaN9CFPw/w-d-xo.html
I actually left mine ported after experimenting with it for a few weeks, as I thought it sounded better ported. But I'll admit that is definitely "wrong" based on Kicker's specification sheet.
Thanks for all these videos man. I'm installing my new system today!! Your tutorials will make this all a little familiar now 😊😊
I did the exact same thing.put in an order march 3rd for stinger swinggate sub and couldn’t wait so I put in another amp and the kicker sub but got nasty rattling I found out it was the locking mechanism of the seatbelt so I had to wait for the stinger to come in and once that was in I relied more on the stinger and the kicker sub was supplemental but now I have no rattling whatsoever
This was a good idea. I just wish the ford enclosure was a bit sturdier. When I added the kicker sub and put an ACM 1.300 behind it, it was so leaky it was like putting your mouth into a tennis show and blowing as hard as you can.
Great video . Your videos are a great asset for the bronco community. . I wish I had the time to do videos..
Awesome Brian! Thank you so much!
The Kicker 48CWR84 fits. All you do is rip off the trim piece on the speaker so no need to dremel the box.
If you have to go touch the subwoofer to see if it’s working, then it’s not much of an upgrade from the B&O woofer. Plus, speakers need a specific volume to work, and that small enclosure is too small (and thin plastic) for it to work properly. Hopefully it’s a tiny bit better.
Ragnar, I would seal up the port opening. That sub is needs a much larger enclosure for a ported design.
I was starting to dial in everything today, and... yeah... you may be right. I was thinking the same thing earlier.
I did stuff a towel into the port quickly just to see what it sounded like, and it sounded like total garbage. But definitely need to play around with it more.
Nice job on fabricating the stock B&O box for the kicker! Question, have read where folks are putting some sort of poly fill into the sub enclosure, as well as applying Dynamat to outside of box…would you recommend either? Appreciate your help here and over at 6g👍
Polyfill generally speaking can smooth out the bass a bit and make the everything a little more efficient. But in a vehicle as loud as the Bronco you probably won’t notice a difference honestly. Polyfill is pretty cheap though, so no harm in buying some and experimenting with it.
Dynamat, on the other hand, will help quite a bit by reducing vibrations caused by the subwoofer, and also toning down a lot of the road noise the Bronco has. So I would recommend Dynamat.
That said… it all depends on what you’re going for, how much optimization you want to do, how much time/money you want to spend, etc. etc.
For me, I was going for equal to or better than the Lux package while keeping it under $1000 total. So I’m not going for some super high-end setup that’s perfectly dialed in. If I was, I wouldn’t have used the B&O enclosure, as it is undersized for the 8” Kicker sub I selected. I just wanted something better than stock, and I wanted to be able to easily add additional mods to the cargo area in the future. Therefore I didn’t use any polyfill or Dynamat, even though I know they would help.
I got another video where I start dialing everything in-may give you a better idea about what you want to do:
th-cam.com/video/mdQeaN9CFPw/w-d-xo.html
Anyone know what roof rack that is???
Thanks
@@abstractvisions Trailrax TRMR
Great Video. Will replacing just the b&o sub with 8" kicker and keeping the b&o amp work? Can the factory amp power the larger sub?
@@Funbrother it’ll be a bit underpowered, but it will work.
Thank you for your content!! Really good stuff man.
How do you find out exactly what system you have. I have a 22 outer banks. I assume it is not the B and O
Sorry if i missed it somewhere, what thickness HDPE did you use for the mount and what hardware did you use to attach both the amp and the mount?
Great well thought out and detailed vid. Here is my question as i didnt see your other videos. If you are using an amp for thr subwoofer,i am assuming you have no amp on the rest of the system or u coukd have used that amp to power the subwoofer as well? So far all inhave done on my 23 wildtrac is change the dash spealers to JL ac -100 and boy what a diffrence. I havent changers the rear pods yet as they are so far from the driver that i dont know if i will hear any difference? Thoughts?
Thanks again, if I understand correctly, the amplifier of the b&o subwoofer can't only operate the Kicker subwoofer and the amplifier must be replaced as well (can't the original amplifier operate the subwoofer?) Thanks for your help
No matter how many fingers and toes I count, i only come up with 8 speakers on my B&O system!
The front left and front right are 2-way coaxials. Ford's advertising wizards are labeling that as 2 speakers each, which brings the total up to 10.
Personally... I disagree... but I guess if I'm being honest most people in the general public likely have no idea what 2-way coaxials are. So I guess it makes sense?
awesome conversion..since you said the interior was able to be washed out did you ever consider using marine grade kicker products?
Yes I did. The thing I really wanted was the DSP/EQ functionality, and unfortunately Kicker didn't have any waterproof amplifiers that had DSP/EQ functionality built in that fit within the $1000 budget I gave myself for this upgrade.
OK. I watched your vids a hundred times or so..lol, and bought all the goodies for the install (with a few differences).
A few questions.
1. What is the thickness of the HDPE sheet for the amp bracket?
2. Crutchfield suggested I go with the 6 3/4 Kicker Sub (not sure why) and indicated I would have to wire in series not parallel. The Kicker is the Kicker 48CWRT672 with dual 2 ohm voice coils. I'm using the Motorcraft pigtail WPT 1016. Should I wire in series or parallel, and if series, do you have diagram?
3. What gauge is the speaker wire for sub-woofer connect? Also I notice you have color coded speaker wire - where did you purchase?
I'm going to give it a go. Let's see what happens. I'll start with vid#1 and follow along. Thanks again for all the detail for us first timers.
1. The HDPE sheet I had was 1/4-inch thick. 1/8-inch sheets would also work-you may actually be better off with that thickness to be honest, but my local hardware store didn't have sheets that thin.
2. Crutchfield is suggesting a 6-3/4 inch Kicker sub wired in series because they are assuming the standard 2023MY enclosure and the factory amplifier. The standard base audio enclosure is 170mm... or just shy of 6-3/4 inches. And the factory amplifier isn't all that powerful, which is why they are recommending series.
I personally used the B&O subwoofer enclosure that's included in the Lux package, which is a 200mm enclosure (or just shy of 8-inches). It should also be noted that the B&O enclosure is the only enclosure that uses the WPT-1016, so if you are using the standard 2023 enclosure, you won't need that pigtail.
3. I just used 16-gauge stranded wire I had sitting around from a past project. Nothing special.
@RagnarKon thanks. I'm using the same B+O enclosure. Can I keep existing speaker, or should I switch to 4 ohms dual, 8" I'm thinking the 6 3/4 2 should work if wired correctly.
@@nmdelninno If you bought the B&O enclosure (or bought the Lux package) it comes with a 200mm dual 4-ohm subwoofer already installed.
I swapped mine out for a Kicker 8" dual 4-ohm subwoofer.
You can use a 6-3/4 subwoofer if you want, but it won't mount inside of the B&O enclosure-6-3/4 is too small. So you'll need to build an adapter bracket out of the HDPE if you want to use the smaller subwoofer.
Any issues with 1/8" HDPE for sub adapter bracket, or would I need the 1/4"?@@RagnarKon
@@nmdelninno 1/8" should be fine.
My ‘22 B&O has a subwoofer ✌🏼
I’m reference to the MY23 six speaker setup with fake sub and amp, when you say the wiring is there do you mean the long harness? TIA. Looking to add sub/amp next week.
Very helpful videos. Thank you!!
What song do you have playing in the very last section (25:15)?
Take the plastic ring off face of the sub and it drops into factory box
I'm trying to figure out how to handle the pocket in the rear panel. I notice you have a speaker grill there in the video. Did you cut out your stock rear panel pocket and install a speaker cover grill?
I installed a whole new panel... which was pricey and I wouldn't necessarily recommend.
If you check my previous video it goes into a little more info about the panel: th-cam.com/video/nmFy1GgvJ1Q/w-d-xo.html
Question! I’m hooking up a single voice coil, do i just combine the 2 positives, then the two negatives?
Hi, thanks for the video, it's very helpful, a small question, if I have the model with 10 b&o speakers, is it possible to change the subwoofer to the kicker and leave the original amplifier for it? Thanks for answers
Yes, but you may have trouble finding a spot to mount the Kicker amplifier. The spot where I mounted by Kicker is the same spot where the factory B&O amp is mounted.
This is my dummy 23 sub. Do I need this wired star screwed connection or cut it. I’m trying to use the exist wiring and sub enclosure….well I can’t seem to share photos. I’m oblivious.🤠
It's been a long time since doing any real stereo installs but wondering if the Key 500.1 sees the actual ohm level that is wired to it since it is a mono amp ? Back in the day if you bridged a stereo amplifier it would be running at 2ohms if you had a 4 ohm load wired to it but the dedicated mono amps would just see the 4ohm load. Since you used a dual 4ohm voice coil sub wired in parallel to create a 2ohm load, I assume the amp is running at 2ohms . So @300 watts output max. Is that correct ?
Yup, you nailed it.
The amplifier runs at 500 watts at 1Ω (hence the name “500.1”). 300 watts at 2Ω, or 150 watts at 4Ω.
@@RagnarKon Cool , just trying to nail down the correct components to order for my 2023 . Looks like I will go with the same sub and amp as mine has the box with fake sub and amp already. May run another speaker lead to a panel mount quick connect on the trim panel to throw another 8" sub in the back when I'm feeling a little more boomy :) See what it does with two subs at 1ohm . Thanks for the video content.
@@rydfree Just a heads-up in case you were not already aware:
If you got the 2023MY with the base audio system, the 8" sub doesn't fit. The enclosure I have is the B&O enclosure included with the Lux package, but the base audio enclosure is slightly different and only really fits a 6.75" subwoofer.
Granted I'm sure you could modify it to fit the 8" sub, but not sure how difficult that would be. Would have to hit the forums to see what others have done on their 2023MY Broncos.
Did you use the factory power wire or go with a thicker gauge?
Thanks for sharing! Do you happen to know the part number for the subwoofer surround? Thanks!
It's all in the description!
I just bought one from Ford dealership. The shipping box has the part number M2DZ-1808-H, or now L. The actual part enclosure has a part number M2DT-19A067-AA. The parts department says it's the same part and will fit Bronco. Haven't tried it yet, but looks the same.
What is your model again? I am getting a 2023 big bend with a factory sub speaker delete.
2022 Badlands. 2023 will have a sale 6.75" enclosure from the factory, as well as some of the wiring, but otherwise it is very similar.
What costs more the enclosure or the 8" sub? I would modify the cheapest one.
Did you use a LOC? I'm looking at an AudioControl LC7i, but it's pretty big. Any suggestions on where to mount? Or maybe another LOC with same capabilities?
No.
If I was going for a high-end setup I would have (and also bought better amps). But I put myself on a budget, and one of the reasons why I bought the Kicker Key amps was to avoid having to buy a LOC.
Got it. I was hoping to keep on a budget but went to an audio house and ended up with a higher end recommendation. I'm really trying to get up to speed on install (since labor to install would be more than parts ($1500). The side panel part you are referencing was $650, so if I can cut out I definitely save cash.
Looks like I'm headed down a blend of doing what I can figure out myself, and pro install assistance. APPRECIATE THE HELP.@@RagnarKon
Hi Ragnar, do you know if the b&o sub is a true 8 inch? You mentioned the one you have was slightly off.. I wonder if anyone is making custom enclosures to fit a true 8 inch? I, too, love the stock look. This is the way.
It is not a true 8".
I didn't know it at the time I made this video, but I found out after my most recent video that it is a considered to be a 200mm subwoofer-comes out to be 7.87 inches.
There may be _some_ 8" aftermarket subwoofers that fit inside the enclosure, but I suspect for most of them you'll have to modify the enclosure like I did.
There is a company called Gearshade that is making an aftermarket 8" box that is very promising, but they are having production issues currently. And JL Audio recently released their 10" enclosure called the "Stealthbox" that looks awesome, but is also extremely pricey (over double what I paid).
@@RagnarKon Very valuable information here Ragnar, I'm a bit of an audiophile and I know the B&O system wont cut it. My Bronco is being build on the 9th and I'm trying to get ahead of all the mods I want to implement. Please keep tinkering and making videos, you will grow this channel fast! Thank you for everything good sir.
Which Kicker sub did you actually use for the install? Was it a 6 inch or an 8 inch subwoofer? Thank you.
8 inch.
To help out with measurements:
From the factory the the B&O system enclosure (which is what I bought) has a 200mm subwoofer, or 7.87 inches.
The base audio system enclosure in 2023+ Broncos has a 170mm subwoofer, or 6.69 inches.
Hi Ron - do you need to make forscan tweaks with any of this
In my case, I do not need to. For 2023MY Bronco... yes, you will probably need to change some stuff.
Awesome!🎉
I got a 48CWRT84 to install in my mustang (with no sub) it worked good for about 3 months then the wires of the terminals got broken or some shit... how bout yours?
No issues so far.
when you ohm out the wires, how do you know which is positive?
Very good question. I cut that part out of the final video because I explained it very poorly. Hard to explain it while in the middle of actually doing it. I probably should have just re-shot it or done voice-over or something so folks had that info.
You can change the multimeter to test voltage and then lightly push on the speaker cone to see what kind of voltage is induced. Depending on if that voltage is positive or negative you can tell what your polarities are.
THAT SAID, the easiest way is probably to get a AA battery. Lightly touch the speaker leads to the AA battery, and you can figure out what your positive and negative is depending on which direction the cone moves. It the speaker cone moves out, then your positive will be connected to the battery positive, and negative will be connect to the battery negative. If the cone sucks in, then it's opposite.
For larger speakers (like subwoofers) you may have to use a 9V battery instead to actually see it move.
@@RagnarKon No, subwoofers are typically more sensitive than smaller speakers.
My 2021 has a factory subwoofer.
That means you have the B&O sound system with the Lux package.
How much was that b n o oem housing or is there other aftermarket housing now that will fit the kicker sub u have? I have a 2023 with the delete sadly
It was around $200 when I bought it ~10 months ago, but prices vary all the time.
When I bought it there was no aftermarket options, but now are a few available. JL Audio Stealthbox is probably the most popular option, and it comes with a subwoofer speaker already.
You can also just modify the 2023MY factory housing that you have to fit an 8" subwoofer. From the factory it is a 170mm (6.75-in) housing, but nothing stopping you from making the hole larger.
That JL audio stealthbox is $1,000 dam !!!!
Where the heck can you get a kicker key 200.4 now days!?
Unfortunately... no where. They're having supply chain issues, and the Kicker Key isn't expected to be back in stock until late 2023 into 2024.
There are a handful of alternatives available. The only one I've personally used and can vouch for is the AudioControl ACM-4.300.
@@RagnarKon dude! Thank you for such a quick reply! I have a couple more questions about helping the stock system in our 2023 outer banks. What's the best way to reach you?
@@GCharlesE Bronco6G.com or TheBroncoNation.com under the username "RagnarKon" is the easiest way to contact me.
I'm also on the /r/FordBronco subreddit's Discord server.
Do you know if the factory Sub B&O enclosure MZDZ-18808-H will fit the 2022 2 door?
Yes it does. The cargo side panel is obviously designed a little differently on 2-door model, so you might have to get a little creative with how you mount the Kicker Key 500.1 (assuming that's the amplifier you've selected), but the subwoofer enclosure itself is the same.
I've also heard that MZDZ-18808-H was replaced by a new part number: M2DZ-18808-L. So if you're having trouble finding the "H" part, check for the "L" part. I do not know what is difference between the two is, but according to Ford's internal parts system the "L" part is a direct replacement for the "H" part.
Not sure yours had a different part number on the actual enclosure, but the box had your part number, and the part had M2DT-19A067-AA. Looks the same. Picked up today. @@RagnarKon
@@nmdelninno Yup, Ford parts have two different numbers: A Service Number and an Engineering Number.
The Engineering Number is used internally inside of Ford's engineering departments, and is what is usually listed on the part itself. The Service Number is used by customers, dealers, mechanics, etc. to actually order the part. That's the part number on the box.
Ford dealerships have the ability to cross-reference those parts numbers. So if you have a part with an engineering number on it, you can ask your dealership to look up the service number and get it ordered.
I have the 23 Outer Banks. Do you do this for other people?
I'm in Rhode Island
I do not, just not setup to do it properly.
I don’t mind helping other people out or providing some guidance with their own upgrades (kind of the point of this YT channel). But I don’t have the free time or facilities to be able to work on other people’s vehicles.
Since mine came with a dummy amp and it has a wire harness plugged into it can i just tap into that to get my positive and negative and remote
Yes you can!
The remote line is biased for 6 volts instead of 12 volts, so if your amplifier is expecting 12 volts for the remote turn-on line you'll need something like a PAC TR-4 to bring it up to 12 volts.
@@RagnarKon to wire up the tr4 does yellow go-to 12v power black to ground green to bronco remote I tapped into and then blue to amp remote?
@@Jaxon327
Black = Ground
Yellow = Power. I recommend tapping into the factory amplifier power, which should be a slightly thicker Yellow/Red wire
Green = From the factory enable. Yellow/Violet wire
Blue = To the amp enable on you aftermarket amplifier
Does anyone know if there is room on the otherside in the same spot for another sub while routing the cables to the same amp if the correct one is bought?
The trailer tow module is mounted on the other side, so if you have tow package that'll be in the way. The trim panel on that side also has a storage pocket that consumes much of the space.
It's definitely possible to mount a sub on that side, but you won't have the same amount of space as you do on the passenger side.
So can i ask what the total cost was to up grade
If you ignore the stupidly expensive gigantic plastic side panel that I shouldn't have bought...
It was around $530 to do the subwoofer. The subwoofer, amplifier, enclosure, wiring, etc. The entire audio upgrade project was just shy of $1200.
Can u ship me that wiring harness?
Nope, but I can link you to where I got it.
He is local (for me), but ships all over the country: plugnplaykits.com
Cardboard aided design 🤣🤣🤣🤣
Sure spend more money when they could out it in so its a goid one to begin with its ridiculous how much these vehicles cost ridiculous ford just ridiculous ive been a fird man all my life but no more ur charging too much money for nothing and then u want everyone to buy upgrades what bs waje u people these o
Prices are out of line and putting in inferior products so u will soend more money getting a good one when ut should have been put in to begin with😢