There are gunsmiths, and there are gunsmiths who’re really and truly badass! Larry Potterfield is a gunsmiths gunsmith. Thank you sir for all of the things that I have learned from you, I can only hope to be as good, someday.
Pretty amazing how they went from 1898 rifles and their fine milling and fitting for every little thing to something joe blow can put together with a vise, wrench and grease in only 60 years
@@BrokenSmokinSpokesyep! The easier something is for final assembly, the harder the designing stages were. Not sure of too many exceptions to that rule.
I worked in DS Maintenance in the Army on the M16A1. The step that is missing is anti seize should be applied to the shoulder of the barrel extension and the bore of the receiver via barrel extension. This provides easier pull on torqueing. Torque 3 times to 30 ft lbs and with a second torque wrench set to 95 ft lbs and the second wrench will not click when lining up the gas tube. The best times were when the WO5 said check your work, load up and do full mag dumps on rock and roll. There's the right way, the wrong way and the Army way!
This is incorrect Loctite should never be applied, because of the fact that the owners have said some questionable things on Twitter. They have not been promoting social justice and equity, this is questionable behavior.
@@MobileAura Loctite is owned by Henkel Ag & Co which is headquartered in Germany, so no suprise they are on the social justice bandwagon. But why bring them up to begin with? In the original comment he mentioned anti-seize, which is a generic term.
@@110pitbike2 No the bad thing about them is that they are not on the bandwagon. Why should I buy their products if they are not actively fighting injustice? /s
The barrel wrench should be at 90 degrees from the torque wrench. If you line them up "adding to the length of the torque wench" it will change your torque readings adding 7 to 14 % depending on the length of the barrel wench.
I love how people constantly comment about the proper usage of a torque wrench. Now I get it that truly there is what you might say the proper usage of a torque wrench but did you happen to notice that the specs for tightening the barrel nut was between 40 and 80 foot pounds. It’s not like he’s building the space shuttle or some surgical device. I used to rebuild automatic transmissions and dealt with inch pound torque wrenches and foot-pound torque wrench’s all day long so I do know a little bit a little bit about torque wrench’s. People just can’t wait to catch someone doing something “wrong” and tell everyone how how much smarter they are. Again... 40-80ft/lbs. that’s HUGE spread.... think about. Relax.
@@Hagop64 Exactly. I cant trust a single thing this man says because he just displayed that doesn't know how to use the most important tool in the process.
Did anyone notice that the initial 30 some pounds of torque early in the video, it was working the threads to mate them, not install the barrel permanently?
@@jjmarcos except we are talking about someone choosing to not account for a 8.3% variance in torque setting for something that has a 200% increase in allowable torque over minimum. Even with an industry standard of +/-4% of a torque wrench calibration, and the differential in leverage, a setting at 60 (right in the middle of 40-80 ftlbs) is ~67.6ftlbs max. Well within range. Anyone who is pointing this out in a situation that it doesn't imply is a fake expert. There is places it applies to but anything in which the tolerance max is more than double the tolerance minimum, is not that.
Excellent video. I'd love to see if any of the "experts" in the comment section have even 10% of Larry's knowledge and experience turning wrenches on rifles
FYI, this video is a huge advertisement for the products he sells on his site. Truth is you don't need any of this stuff to do a simple barrel nut install. You can simply do it on the couch while watching tv. It's an AR and all it requires a minimum of 30 ft/lbs torque which can almost be done by hand. I built ars like this since I got into it in 2010 and never once it became loose or something dangerous.
Thank you Larry for producing this video and others. I find them to be educational and very helpful. Forgive the trolls that are simply keyboard warriors looking for the next opportunity to trash someone’s work. I wish they would all simply produce their own “perfect” TH-cam video series for their like minded viewers to shred. Thanks again!
Go on John wilmot and follow old Larry's bad instruction and when you mess up a possible good build can only blame yourself for following his unsound advice. Old Larry dont have the market cornered on how to build an ar, maybe how not to.
We never had the services of a base armory at our disposal when I was attached to a MARDET aboard a CV. One of our Marines was selected to attend the armory school, and that person did all of the maintenance we needed for our M16A2's and other weapons. As they rotated out after their 2yr duty assignment, another Marine would attend the school and take over responsibilities. For the really big issues, we just shipped the entire weapon back to Quantico for work or had it replaced.
If you think this way... You obviously just go out and blow a bunch of 55gr ammo with no regards to accuracy or marksmanship.... If he torqued that barrel to 70~+ ft lbs with that method I can guarantee it is at least 15% higher with how long he made the torque wrench by improperly using it...lool
1:50 "Then using a breaker bar, loosen the nut, and back it off SLIGHTLY." *proceeds to completely unscrew the nut* My definition of "slightly" is slightly different, lol. (I get that he's showing the right way. I just thought the choice of words was funny.)
He meant use the breaker bar to back it off slightly because you couldn't do it by hand, and then remove it completely by hand so its faster. There's no point in using the breaker bar to remove it completely
@@Baldhills you shouldn’t use a torque wrench for anything other than torquing. Using it to back off torqued nuts will cause the calibration to be inaccurate on the wrench
What is not considered is the fact you are exceeding the torque you want by using the barrel nutwrench. Example, if your torque wrench measures 18" from the middle of the handle to the center of the ratchet head and the tool measures 3" from the drive hole to the center of the barrel nut , you increase the effect of the torque wrench. Cross multiply and divide to get the correct setting for a desired torque. Using the torque wrench I described, at a setting of 60 foot pounds would actually be 70 foot pounds on the nut.
The military uses the same method...Measure the distance, r , between the pivot point and the point the force is applied. Determine the angle θ between the direction of the applied force and the vector between the point the force is applied to the pivot point. Multiply r by F and sin θ , and you will get the torque.
Recently watched a Brownells video where I commented on his barrel install about "Setting" the threads or mating as you put it...Caleb said it was a myth...but I was taught to do it by people who design Firearms so I agree with Larry. Midway is my top online store.
.Colt had barrels come loose in the early 2000's during the war on terror..Colt developed this process and it is now required to season the threads for mounting barrels....
Gotta love all the "experts" here who are whining about how he's using the torque wrench, even though he clearly does the 90° technique for the final tightening at 2:30.
Actually for some engine head stud kits, you torque, loosen, and re torque a few times. That's a high performance, high compression head, like a diesel pickup. Not following instructions could mean a leak in the head gasket. Just saying, it actually is a thing.
Most of the time people aren't torqueing a steel nut down on aluminum threads. The aluminum is much more malleable than steel, and it's ability to stretch and gall should be accounted for when tightening down a barrel nut.
Amazing how many people in the comments don't realize Loctite is a company that makes more than thread locking materials. He explicitly says anti-seize compound.
@@sneakinguponit kinda... it actually depends on the total length from the handle to the center of the attached tool. Which is why any tool attached to the end of a torque wrench should be at 90° as to not increase total length....
The military uses the same method...Measure the distance, r , between the pivot point and the point the force is applied. Determine the angle θ between the direction of the applied force and the vector between the point the force is applied to the pivot point. Multiply r by F and sin θ , and you will get the torque.
And here is the real kicker regardless of how tight you make the barrel nut. Once the gas’s block and tube is in place the nut is keyed and cannot be turned because of the tube!
You know some really talented aspiring musician who just couldn't write a hit song ended up recording that "public domain rock music" and it makes me sad every time
I just installed a free float quad rail on my Bushmaster AR carbine yesterday, and I noticed that after I got the old barrel nut removed, the barrel was still stuck in the upper receiver so tight that I couldn't remove it. Luckily I had no intention of changing my barrel, but I might want to do that in the future. Was it just stuck in there from being there so long?
@@jacobcontreras5743 Thanks for the input. I have only put about 200 rounds through my AR all total, but it is almost ten years old so I'm sure that has an effect too.
Sometimes a barrel & receiver are just a really tight fit. With the bolt assembly & charging handle out of the gun, you can use a plastic cylinder of an appropriate diameter and length to knock a barrel out from the back of the upper.
Hi Larry..i have a new ar15 with a 16 barrel,,i was wanting maybe add a ar pistol to my aresonal or just buy a 10.5 inch upper to convert my existing ar 15,,can i do that,if so will any ar 15 upper work,,havent ever fired the ar i have but like the shorter pistol type ars i see online
It is possible that you cannot get proper alignment of a notch with the port in the receiver and still be within the torque spec. In that case you will need a barrel nut shim. I don't know why this is omitted from the video.
Be careful Ruger AR’s. Late models are left hand thread. Easy to cross-thread. I own one of the latter and it still shoots straight. I don’t plan on removing the barrel in my lifetime. Just clean the whole works!
You have balls of solid rock. I’d have thrown the barrel and upper in the trash. Not because I’d be worried about it shooting straight but that fact I’m anal and get pissed when I do stuff like that.
The anti seize he used contains graphite. Graphite eats aluminum. Besides preventing galling, the anti seize gives you the proper torque specs. Dry torque and wet torque are not the same. Mil spec calls for wet, with a moly lube.
With such a wide spread in torque requirements, it seems you really don't need a torque wrench. Put some tight on it with a good anti seize compound and walk away.
Many people don't know how to gauge their own strength, so it could end up a disaster. The purpose of a torque wrench is knowing where you are and being consistent. Too tight? Too loose? Or somewhere in between?
So What Was Your Final Torque Value For The Barrel Nut After Tightening and Loosening 3 Times to 30 Ft Lbs Larry 😀 30-80 Ft Lbs Is Quite a Lot Of Margin For a Torque Value and When You Add Lubricants It Also Increases The Torque
There is only a minimum, 30 ft-lb. After that has been achieved on the third tightening (3x tightening is to smooth and mate the threads) you advance to the next notch alignment for the gas tube to go through. What that torque is does not matter. Get to 30, put the torque wrench away, and replace with a breaker bar. There is NO specific torque for alignment. It is what it is. There is a minimum otherwise things are loose. For the final tightening, since we are not looking for a specific torque after 30 ft-lbs, it does not matter if the wrench is at 90* to the bar or not. Never, ever back off to align.
@@chrischiampo7647 Very important, hold the wrench firmly in the barrel nut so it does not slip out. I don't remember the manufacturer, but I now use a wrench similar to the GI wrench, but it has 5 pins instead of just 3.
@@ryanp6072 well first of all does your handguard hide the barrel nut? If so it doesnt matter you can use normal one but if it doesnt I'd recommend something like this clarkcustomguns.com/product/clark-custom-ar-15-barrel-nut/
The military uses the same method...Measure the distance, r , between the pivot point and the point the force is applied. Determine the angle θ between the direction of the applied force and the vector between the point the force is applied to the pivot point. Multiply r by F and sin θ , and you will get the torque.
That wasn't discussed in the video. I try to eyeball it then sight it in, more than 10 clicks to zero then I loosen/re torque the barrel nut and try to correct it.
Seasoning the threads and it ensures not only a better connection on the threads, but also gives you the extra torque you need if you're under the 30lbs minimum torque value for the barrel nut
I've done the math before for a crow's foot needed to attach to a torque wrench for a work project. It turned out to not be enough to change the torque specifications in the instructions. The offset was smaller than the one used for the AR barrel but then the torque range was much much smaller as well.
@@aa-yt7wo that adapter appears quite a bit longer than a crows foot. Speaking as an aircraft mechanic, a couple of inches offset can change the torque by quite a bit, depending on the specified value.
Lubricants change the torque profile of the mating materials though and can easily lead to over torque. I forget the exact numbers but anti-seize increases applied torque by something like 23%.
I have an alpha shooting sport barrel I’m trying to get into an Aero receiver. It goes in about 3/4 of the way and ceases to go any further. It could be due to cerakote on the receiver but I’m not exactly sure. Any suggestions?
You may need to heat the receiver with a torch allowing for a brief expansion. Search for jprifles thermo fit on yt. It gives a pretty good explanation of how to do this while trying to make you believe they invented thermal expansion. You can also freeze your barrel and see if that helps. Don't overlook dry ice as an option and have a rubber mallet or dead blow hammer handy as a helper. Have a plan before you begin.
To do it correctly, throw that plastic clamshell away that holds the receiver, and spend the money for a torque bar. Doing it like they show here, can distort the receiver.
@@not-a-raccoon Good advice Tom. Magpul bev block is good. Geissele sells a reaction rod which they are very proud of ($$$). Brownells has a version of it that works on AR-10s too and is cheaper. But if you are just doing AR-15s, Bev block is the way to go.
@@JenkinsStevenD Midwest Industries sells a better version of the Geissele for around the same price. Has a removable rib that fits in the charging handle channel (fin) and all the torque is placed directly on the lugs of the reaction rod and the upper is reinforced by the fin on top of the tool, so you really have to try to warp your receiver threads. It's the best investment I've made thus far. Also its made from steel, there are similar designs such as the Wheeler delta one but that one is aluminum and can bend
@@kanaka118446 Yeah. Some of those don't work for "exotic builds." I had a 9mm upper and those operate by blowback. There are no lugs whatsoever. The bev block wouldn't work for those either. Kind of had to use one that locks the upper receiver from the outside rather than interfacing directly to the barrel. Not sure if the MI version would have worked since it has the extra fin. Maybe.
Receiver in the oven, barrel in the freezer. Works like a charm. Just make sure you're actually ready to assemble them; a real tight-fitting barrel/receiver set can be a bear to get back apart once they've equalized in temperature.
Bravo company uppers and several others have tight tolerances. I used a heat gun on the threaded area of the upper receiver and it slid right in like butter. You might be able to get away with a hair dryer.
Suggestions from others ought to have helped you out... but the good news for you is that tight fit (once you get the barrel on), will make for a more accurate rifle than a barrel that slid on easily.
The other problem is the point where he's adding the wrench isn't in the center. I think what they're really saying is you need to tighten it German Tight - Goodentight.
Keep tightening and loosening the barrel nut, this will usually work..The space in the nut for the gas tube must be 1/2 or closer..3/4 will not work.. If all else fails, use barrel shims placed between the barrel and nut, not between the barrel and receiver..
loctite 620 is what you want, its a retention compound. If there is alot of slop you can also use .001 shim stock and the 620. Or get a larger barrel extension. A tight fit will improve accuracy.
30 to 80lbs??? This essentially means it doesn't matter. I'm a mechanic and slowly learning ARs. 30 to 80 is like the difference between an intake manifold and the heads or even the main bearings!
...Not all barrels are the same, Not all barrel nuts are the same, Not all gas systems are the same, Not all upper receivers are the same.... The reason for 30-80ft lbs is to make sure it is tight enough while not exceeding 80ft lbs while trying to get the gas system to line up with your barrel nut while tightening. You want at least 30ft lbs but you can go up to 80ft lbs if required to line the gas ports up....................................lol. If proper torque and alignment of the gas system is not possible, barrel nut shims are required. I'm a mechanic and this should be a given lol.
Yea I got it now. That was kind of a retarded comment on my end. Bottom line is atleast 30 but no more than 80. Whatever you need to line up the block. I get it now after building a few since then
The military uses the same method...Measure the distance, r , between the pivot point and the point the force is applied. Determine the angle θ between the direction of the applied force and the vector between the point the force is applied to the pivot point. Multiply r by F and sin θ , and you will get the torque.
I'd never knock Larry -- and I'm not -- but I saw a video recently where the guy lapped the face of the receiver to ensure the shoulder of the barrel sat 100% flush. Seemed like a good idea is all I'm saying... ;) Thanks, Larry.
I believe what Drew is talking about is there's a certain way you put the torque wrench on the the barrel nut wrench ... If you do not properly do this you are not properly torquing
The way they show torquing is incorrect. Extending the wrench forward of the pivot point on the torque wrench increases leverage. This gives a false torque reading. It actually torques tighter than them torque wrench shows. The correct way is to have the wrench 90* from the pivot point of the torque wrench. This will give you the correct torque setting.
That’s probably he’s way of installing the barrels but not the best way, viewers keep watching for more tutorials and you guys will find out why, he skip some good tips that will definitely make the difference between mediocre installation and OCD to perfect installation the one perfect and done way.
There are gunsmiths, and there are gunsmiths who’re really and truly badass! Larry Potterfield is a gunsmiths gunsmith. Thank you sir for all of the things that I have learned from you, I can only hope to be as good, someday.
Pretty amazing how they went from 1898 rifles and their fine milling and fitting for every little thing to something joe blow can put together with a vise, wrench and grease in only 60 years
Yep and I still love a fine piece of wood and blued steel.
You wouldn't be able to do this without the milling, fitting, measuring and metallurgy. This is no different really than disassembling other firearms.
@@BrokenSmokinSpokesyep! The easier something is for final assembly, the harder the designing stages were. Not sure of too many exceptions to that rule.
I worked in DS Maintenance in the Army on the M16A1. The step that is missing is anti seize should be applied to the shoulder of the barrel extension and the bore of the receiver via barrel extension. This provides easier pull on torqueing. Torque 3 times to 30 ft lbs and with a second torque wrench set to 95 ft lbs and the second wrench will not click when lining up the gas tube. The best times were when the WO5 said check your work, load up and do full mag dumps on rock and roll. There's the right way, the wrong way and the Army way!
This is incorrect Loctite should never be applied, because of the fact that the owners have said some questionable things on Twitter. They have not been promoting social justice and equity, this is questionable behavior.
@@MobileAura You mean, they do or don't support for BLM?
@@MobileAura Loctite is owned by Henkel Ag & Co which is headquartered in Germany, so no suprise they are on the social justice bandwagon.
But why bring them up to begin with? In the original comment he mentioned anti-seize, which is a generic term.
@@110pitbike2 No the bad thing about them is that they are not on the bandwagon. Why should I buy their products if they are not actively fighting injustice? /s
@@MobileAura He never said to apply Loctite, he said anti seize compound, which isn't what Loctite is.
The barrel wrench should be at 90 degrees from the torque wrench. If you line them up "adding to the length of the torque wench" it will change your torque readings adding 7 to 14 % depending on the length of the barrel wench.
If you watch the entire thing you see that on his final torque he actually does have it pretty close to 90 degrees.
With a torque range of 30-80 ft lbs it pretty much doesn't matter.
@@SuperAWaC Exactly.
It matters because you are using a tool incorrectly and making a video showing lots of people.
@@markthibaudeau9120 pretty much this.
A 5 min vid is valid. A 10 min vid is a rant. A 20 min vid is BS....thanks for keeping it to the point !!!
I love how people constantly comment about the proper usage of a torque wrench. Now I get it that truly there is what you might say the proper usage of a torque wrench but did you happen to notice that the specs for tightening the barrel nut was between 40 and 80 foot pounds. It’s not like he’s building the space shuttle or some surgical device. I used to rebuild automatic transmissions and dealt with inch pound torque wrenches and foot-pound torque wrench’s all day long so I do know a little bit a little bit about torque wrench’s.
People just can’t wait to catch someone doing something “wrong” and tell everyone how how much smarter they are.
Again... 40-80ft/lbs. that’s HUGE spread.... think about. Relax.
Only one problem. It's 35 to 80 ft pounds not 40. He even says 35 in the video (but then torques it to 30?)
If you don't understand how to properly use a tool in the installation process, then people start to doubt your knowledge of the WHOLE process.
@@Hagop64 Exactly. I cant trust a single thing this man says because he just displayed that doesn't know how to use the most important tool in the process.
Did anyone notice that the initial 30 some pounds of torque early in the video, it was working the threads to mate them, not install the barrel permanently?
@@jjmarcos except we are talking about someone choosing to not account for a 8.3% variance in torque setting for something that has a 200% increase in allowable torque over minimum. Even with an industry standard of +/-4% of a torque wrench calibration, and the differential in leverage, a setting at 60 (right in the middle of 40-80 ftlbs) is ~67.6ftlbs max. Well within range.
Anyone who is pointing this out in a situation that it doesn't imply is a fake expert. There is places it applies to but anything in which the tolerance max is more than double the tolerance minimum, is not that.
You may have thought he forgot how to do this, but Pepperidge Farm remembers.
Riflmao. 🤣 that's the best comment i ever heard.
Lmfao
🤣🤣🤣
"Do you remember those warm New England summers?!? Pepperidge Farms remembers." I love Family Guy.
I have almost everything on the list, where do I buy "muscle"?
No muscle needed, just use leverage.
They come in little vials, that can be bought at your local pharmacy or the right connection, near a gym.
should be able to source it at your local gym
Instead of using a gas tube alignment gauge, you could also use...a gas tube.
That's insane though. Lol when you could buy an extra tool... 😆
@@jduffey320 off midwayUSA!(link in the description)
Wha... h... how? I mean... what?!!
Excellent video. I'd love to see if any of the "experts" in the comment section have even 10% of Larry's knowledge and experience turning wrenches on rifles
I have 10% of Larry’s penis size but my balls are a lot bigger
He used loctite on a buffer extension….I don’t think he has much on this subject.
@@YTIsRanByFeds Locktite is a company name brand; they make many different products, including anti-seize.
@@kennycanuck7232 the dude used a ton of anti seize lol
FYI, this video is a huge advertisement for the products he sells on his site. Truth is you don't need any of this stuff to do a simple barrel nut install. You can simply do it on the couch while watching tv. It's an AR and all it requires a minimum of 30 ft/lbs torque which can almost be done by hand. I built ars like this since I got into it in 2010 and never once it became loose or something dangerous.
Thank you Larry for producing this video and others. I find them to be educational and very helpful. Forgive the trolls that are simply keyboard warriors looking for the next opportunity to trash someone’s work. I wish they would all simply produce their own “perfect” TH-cam video series for their like minded viewers to shred. Thanks again!
john wilmoth ok boomer
Go on John wilmot and follow old Larry's bad instruction and when you mess up a possible good build can only blame yourself for following his unsound advice. Old Larry dont have the market cornered on how to build an ar, maybe how not to.
What he's doing, is a work of art
We never had the services of a base armory at our disposal when I was attached to a MARDET aboard a CV. One of our Marines was selected to attend the armory school, and that person did all of the maintenance we needed for our M16A2's and other weapons. As they rotated out after their 2yr duty assignment, another Marine would attend the school and take over responsibilities. For the really big issues, we just shipped the entire weapon back to Quantico for work or had it replaced.
If you don’t have a torque wrench remember the old method tighten till you here the crack then back her off a quarter turn
@Roderick storey it might be but be very careful so it doesn’t become righty loosey
As the master of over tightening I find this extremely relatable
If that vise doing it the way you say, might snap off the index pin or part of the upper no ?
@@IrnMaiden304 works on bolts can’t confirm or deny the effectiveness when used a part with a dowel or pin
@@patrickmcnair1965 Different metals and different stresses they can handle
I think Larry is awesome. Thanks for the video. I did notice the torque wrench being a ME took me back to statics class sophomore year many moons ago.
I love how everyone is telling him how to do his job. He has been doing this long then some of us were even thought of he knows what he is doing
Keyboard jockey experts. Hhahaha
Agreed. So many "experts" here! lol.
If you think this way... You obviously just go out and blow a bunch of 55gr ammo with no regards to accuracy or marksmanship.... If he torqued that barrel to 70~+ ft lbs with that method I can guarantee it is at least 15% higher with how long he made the torque wrench by improperly using it...lool
1:50 "Then using a breaker bar, loosen the nut, and back it off SLIGHTLY."
*proceeds to completely unscrew the nut*
My definition of "slightly" is slightly different, lol.
(I get that he's showing the right way. I just thought the choice of words was funny.)
He meant use the breaker bar to back it off slightly because you couldn't do it by hand, and then remove it completely by hand so its faster. There's no point in using the breaker bar to remove it completely
Just reverse the action an a common torque wrench to back it off.
No need for a breaker bar or socket wrench.
@@Baldhills you shouldn’t use a torque wrench for anything other than torquing. Using it to back off torqued nuts will cause the calibration to be inaccurate on the wrench
What is not considered is the fact you are exceeding the torque you want by using the barrel nutwrench. Example, if your torque wrench measures 18" from the middle of the handle to the center of the ratchet head and the tool measures 3" from the drive hole to the center of the barrel nut , you increase the effect of the torque wrench. Cross multiply and divide to get the correct setting for a desired torque. Using the torque wrench I described, at a setting of 60 foot pounds would actually be 70 foot pounds on the nut.
Doesn't actually matter.
@superbarnie maybe not in this application, but if you add an extension to a torque wrench, it does change the actual verses the reading.
@@Mike44460 You are right but a 10 ft-lb difference won't make a difference.
The military uses the same method...Measure the distance, r , between the pivot point and the point the force is applied. Determine the angle θ between the direction of the applied force and the vector between the point the force is applied to the pivot point. Multiply r by F and sin θ , and you will get the torque.
Recently watched a Brownells video where I commented on his barrel install about "Setting" the threads or mating as you put it...Caleb said it was a myth...but I was taught to do it by people who design Firearms so I agree with Larry. Midway is my top online store.
.Colt had barrels come loose in the early 2000's during the war on terror..Colt developed this process and it is now required to season the threads for mounting barrels....
Use barrel shims for a better installation without over torquing and distorting the receiver.
Gotta love all the "experts" here who are whining about how he's using the torque wrench, even though he clearly does the 90° technique for the final tightening at 2:30.
Barrel nuts. The only time you do the ocd task of “seasoning” the nut. I swear some fuy with ocd convinced everyone to do this.
It was that one meeting he actually showed up to because he got up early enough to do everything three times before arriving at work.
Actually for some engine head stud kits, you torque, loosen, and re torque a few times. That's a high performance, high compression head, like a diesel pickup. Not following instructions could mean a leak in the head gasket. Just saying, it actually is a thing.
Most of the time people aren't torqueing a steel nut down on aluminum threads. The aluminum is much more malleable than steel, and it's ability to stretch and gall should be accounted for when tightening down a barrel nut.
As a guy with OCD, I appreciate this. :)
@@thewatcher611 Subaru's use stretch bolts for the heads that require a mutli step process to finish torquing too.
Amazing how many people in the comments don't realize Loctite is a company that makes more than thread locking materials. He explicitly says anti-seize compound.
Bring back Larry Porterfield !
Wrench should be at a 90 Degree angle from the socket to get proper torque
Isn’t the actual torque on the retaining nut going to be greater than the setting on the wrench because of the increased lever arm from the adapter?
That would depend on the angle between the barrel wrench and torque wrench.
@@sneakinguponit kinda... it actually depends on the total length from the handle to the center of the attached tool. Which is why any tool attached to the end of a torque wrench should be at 90° as to not increase total length....
The military uses the same method...Measure the distance, r , between the pivot point and the point the force is applied. Determine the angle θ between the direction of the applied force and the vector between the point the force is applied to the pivot point. Multiply r by F and sin θ , and you will get the torque.
Very helpful and to the point. Well done.
I might not know nearly as much as Larry, but I did stay at a Holiday Inn last night?
God is good
Great video!
And here is the real kicker regardless of how tight you make the barrel nut. Once the gas’s block and tube is in place the nut is keyed and cannot be turned because of the tube!
No, if the barrel nut comes loose, it will push the gas tube out of line and jam the carrier..
And thank you too for not using a stupid amount of grease.
That was informative and quick. Thank you.
So glad I'm using a Geissele rail. So much easier.
If you’re using the same upper receiver and simply repack go the barrel can you use the same barrel nut?
Depends on the handguard, each brand use their own barrel nut.
4:46 Cool ring!
do the torque specs acct for the huge loss in clamping pressure from the anti seize?
I have a hard time doing this on the aero precision enhanced handgaurd barrel nut
Very good...
Continua
You don't need to check for head spacing?
@P. Cameron Awesome, makes sense.
Who decided to have the music blasting?
Should you use any anti-seize on the barrel extension where it fits inside the upper receiver?
You can if you like.
I'm trying to do an AR-10 build. Can this method work for that as well?
I don't even own an ar pattern rifle but I still like knowing how things work.
This video would be great with some smooth jazz instead of the public domain rock music
You know some really talented aspiring musician who just couldn't write a hit song ended up recording that "public domain rock music" and it makes me sad every time
I just installed a free float quad rail on my Bushmaster AR carbine yesterday, and I noticed that after I got the old barrel nut removed, the barrel was still stuck in the upper receiver so tight that I couldn't remove it. Luckily I had no intention of changing my barrel, but I might want to do that in the future. Was it just stuck in there from being there so long?
Possibly, or not enough grease beforehand
It's the heat from shooting it expands the metal over time.
@@jacobcontreras5743 Thanks for the input. I have only put about 200 rounds through my AR all total, but it is almost ten years old so I'm sure that has an effect too.
Sometimes a barrel & receiver are just a really tight fit. With the bolt assembly & charging handle out of the gun, you can use a plastic cylinder of an appropriate diameter and length to knock a barrel out from the back of the upper.
@@jacobcontreras5743 Thermal expansion is reversable.
Hi Larry..i have a new ar15 with a 16 barrel,,i was wanting maybe add a ar pistol to my aresonal or just buy a 10.5 inch upper to convert my existing ar 15,,can i do that,if so will any ar 15 upper work,,havent ever fired the ar i have but like the shorter pistol type ars i see online
It is possible that you cannot get proper alignment of a notch with the port in the receiver and still be within the torque spec. In that case you will need a barrel nut shim. I don't know why this is omitted from the video.
Just because it hasn't happened to you doesn't mean it didn't happen to me.@JenkemOD
101 experts were on a plane...
How did you accomplish putting the gas tube in without front sight removal???
It will go in without removing the front sight..
@@hairydogstail Hmmmm. 🤔🤔🤔🤔 Okay. 👍👍
@@hairydogstail if I remember right I couldn't do it with the carbine format. I have something to learn.
Why doesn't Midway show how to do FAL berrals or AK berrals
learn how to spell the word barrel
@@gunnerjonzy ur mom does
Be careful Ruger AR’s. Late models are left hand thread. Easy to cross-thread. I own one of the latter and it still shoots straight. I don’t plan on removing the barrel in my lifetime. Just clean the whole works!
You have balls of solid rock. I’d have thrown the barrel and upper in the trash. Not because I’d be worried about it shooting straight but that fact I’m anal and get pissed when I do stuff like that.
You should be able to visually look at and tell if things are RH or LH thread.... Especially with the threads being so large.
does anti-seize matter? I was always told no Graphite. Aero-shell etc OK to use
The anti seize he used contains graphite. Graphite eats aluminum. Besides preventing galling, the anti seize gives you the proper torque specs. Dry torque and wet torque are not the same. Mil spec calls for wet, with a moly lube.
@KGB2101Highest density areas in the US are on the coasts.
I thought you're supposed to use molly grease, or Aeroshell. Anti seize has graphite that can cause corrosion on aluminum.
think about it anti seize is what keeps your spark plugs from seizing in you aluminium heads.
@@arib515
Use whatever you like. Army manual reads to use Areoshell.
I never used anything on the plugs in my shovelhead.
?????? Where did you get that information????????
@@Bob-pg7es Dont matter if you specifically dont its done on wide scale globally on various aluminum parts for many decades.
@KGB2101 Brownells recently had a short video on galvanic corrosion. It is worth a watch if you are in to that sort of thing.
What happen if you use two crush washer??
With such a wide spread in torque requirements, it seems you really don't need a torque wrench. Put some tight on it with a good anti seize compound and walk away.
I had a smith break a barrel nut doing that.
Many people don't know how to gauge their own strength, so it could end up a disaster. The purpose of a torque wrench is knowing where you are and being consistent. Too tight? Too loose? Or somewhere in between?
Do I need a roll pin starter punch?
So What Was Your Final Torque Value For The Barrel Nut After Tightening and Loosening 3 Times to 30 Ft Lbs Larry 😀 30-80 Ft Lbs Is Quite a Lot Of Margin For a Torque Value and When You Add Lubricants It Also Increases The Torque
There is only a minimum, 30 ft-lb. After that has been achieved on the third tightening (3x tightening is to smooth and mate the threads) you advance to the next notch alignment for the gas tube to go through. What that torque is does not matter. Get to 30, put the torque wrench away, and replace with a breaker bar. There is NO specific torque for alignment. It is what it is. There is a minimum otherwise things are loose. For the final tightening, since we are not looking for a specific torque after 30 ft-lbs, it does not matter if the wrench is at 90* to the bar or not. Never, ever back off to align.
@@saxmusicmail Thank You Great Explanation 😀 This Will Help Me A Lot On My Barrel To Upper Install It Will Be My 1st 👍🏼
@@chrischiampo7647 Very important, hold the wrench firmly in the barrel nut so it does not slip out. I don't remember the manufacturer, but I now use a wrench similar to the GI wrench, but it has 5 pins instead of just 3.
@@chrischiampo7647 ...why is every word capitalized?
As long as I use a free float hand guard delta rings are not necessary with a well made or proper barrel nut correct?
Yup but itll look dumb so just use one of the other full thickness barrel nuts that dont utilise delta rings
@@sethdaboss245 like the aero precision one or one that comes with the hand guard like ALG defense ones etc..
@@ryanp6072 well first of all does your handguard hide the barrel nut? If so it doesnt matter you can use normal one but if it doesnt I'd recommend something like this clarkcustomguns.com/product/clark-custom-ar-15-barrel-nut/
This is way more complex than I expected 😅
Got a 5.56 barrel my barrel nut won't go over it.the barrel nut is supposed to fit it. Is the nut wrong one or are my barrel's wrong
Larry, Larry, Larry; put down the bong.
AT 0:50 you do not show how to install the SPRING under that nut???
Sloppy barrel to receiver fit on your unit?
Actually the proper way is to use the barrel nut wrench at 90* for the final torquing. Look up torquing with a crow foot wrench.
The military uses the same method...Measure the distance, r , between the pivot point and the point the force is applied. Determine the angle θ between the direction of the applied force and the vector between the point the force is applied to the pivot point. Multiply r by F and sin θ , and you will get the torque.
Is there a way to center an A2 front sight to a barrel without a jig?
That wasn't discussed in the video.
I try to eyeball it then sight it in, more than 10 clicks to zero then I loosen/re torque the barrel nut and try to correct it.
not in a good way. jig and laser.
Why do you have to tighten and then open it a few times? Thank you
Seasoning the threads and it ensures not only a better connection on the threads, but also gives you the extra torque you need if you're under the 30lbs minimum torque value for the barrel nut
@@kanaka118446 Thank you your answer
Good video
How do I install an AK barrel Larry?
100% Done correctly!!!!!
is the torque value in inch-lbs or foot-lbs?
You forgot to do the math of the adapter extension. Longer torque arm changes the final torque.
I've done the math before for a crow's foot needed to attach to a torque wrench for a work project. It turned out to not be enough to change the torque specifications in the instructions. The offset was smaller than the one used for the AR barrel but then the torque range was much much smaller as well.
@@aa-yt7wo Agreed. The torque differences are insignificant.
@@aa-yt7wo that adapter appears quite a bit longer than a crows foot. Speaking as an aircraft mechanic, a couple of inches offset can change the torque by quite a bit, depending on the specified value.
@@Mike-ul1xn the specified torque value for this barrel nut is between 30 and 80 lbf, I really doubt he managed to exceed that.
30 to 80lbs....i could fall into that range with a left handed monkey wrench.
My gas tube doesn't go through my gas block. It goes straight into the receiver. Trying to understand why his does.
Lubricants change the torque profile of the mating materials though and can easily lead to over torque. I forget the exact numbers but anti-seize increases applied torque by something like 23%.
@KGB2101 So a dry torque would be somewhere around ~95 ft-lbs, interesting.
was that 30-80 inch pounds or foot pounds?
I have an alpha shooting sport barrel I’m trying to get into an Aero receiver. It goes in about 3/4 of the way and ceases to go any further. It could be due to cerakote on the receiver but I’m not exactly sure. Any suggestions?
You may need to heat the receiver with a torch allowing for a brief expansion. Search for jprifles thermo fit on yt. It gives a pretty good explanation of how to do this while trying to make you believe they invented thermal expansion. You can also freeze your barrel and see if that helps. Don't overlook dry ice as an option and have a rubber mallet or dead blow hammer handy as a helper. Have a plan before you begin.
To do it correctly, throw that plastic clamshell away that holds the receiver, and spend the money for a torque bar. Doing it like they show here, can distort the receiver.
They're not that expensive. I got a Magpul bev block for 40 bucks, locks into the barrel extension so all torque is directed away from the receiver
@@not-a-raccoon Good advice Tom. Magpul bev block is good. Geissele sells a reaction rod which they are very proud of ($$$). Brownells has a version of it that works on AR-10s too and is cheaper. But if you are just doing AR-15s, Bev block is the way to go.
@@JenkinsStevenD Midwest Industries sells a better version of the Geissele for around the same price. Has a removable rib that fits in the charging handle channel (fin) and all the torque is placed directly on the lugs of the reaction rod and the upper is reinforced by the fin on top of the tool, so you really have to try to warp your receiver threads. It's the best investment I've made thus far. Also its made from steel, there are similar designs such as the Wheeler delta one but that one is aluminum and can bend
@@kanaka118446 Yeah. Some of those don't work for "exotic builds." I had a 9mm upper and those operate by blowback. There are no lugs whatsoever. The bev block wouldn't work for those either. Kind of had to use one that locks the upper receiver from the outside rather than interfacing directly to the barrel. Not sure if the MI version would have worked since it has the extra fin. Maybe.
my barrel does not go in that easy into the receiver it is extremely tight, any suggestions?
Moly lube
Receiver in the oven, barrel in the freezer. Works like a charm. Just make sure you're actually ready to assemble them; a real tight-fitting barrel/receiver set can be a bear to get back apart once they've equalized in temperature.
Bravo company uppers and several others have tight tolerances. I used a heat gun on the threaded area of the upper receiver and it slid right in like butter. You might be able to get away with a hair dryer.
Suggestions from others ought to have helped you out... but the good news for you is that tight fit (once you get the barrel on), will make for a more accurate rifle than a barrel that slid on easily.
Beat 'er till she she does what you want.
wrench flat was NOT at 90 degrees from the torque wrench, this was installed wrong
you're spot on!
The other problem is the point where he's adding the wrench isn't in the center.
I think what they're really saying is you need to tighten it German Tight - Goodentight.
What kind of range is 30-80lbs?
You torque to 30, then tighten to line up the gas tube. If it takes more than 80, then try a different barrel nut.
why can't we see the French translation in the subtitle?
In/lb or ft/lb?
Larry, why didn't you bed your barrel?
Anti seaze? I thought spec was Areo Shell grease?
What, exactly, do you think aeroshell does?
@@stevenodell4323 Prevents Galvanic corrosion and gives a true torque value..
It is, LP does not give the best advice on the AR platform..Aeroshell grease prevents Galvanic corrosion and gives a proper torque spec..
Proper torque is 30 to 80 lbs? That's huge gap theyre leaving in between
My barrel nut is not lining with the gas tube
Keep tightening and loosening the barrel nut, this will usually work..The space in the nut for the gas tube must be 1/2 or closer..3/4 will not work.. If all else fails, use barrel shims placed between the barrel and nut, not between the barrel and receiver..
You should specify inch or foot pounds.
Ever seen a 1/2" drive inch pound torque wrench?
No anti-seize on the barrel extension?
Anti-sieze of that type shouldn't be used on dissimilar metals. It promotes corrosion.
A molybdenum grease is more appropriate.
@@scrateshooter Or loctite 621
If your good with your build leave the barrel on. If your guessing use grease and do it till you get it right. Its a gun not a food processer
loctite 620 is what you want, its a retention compound. If there is alot of slop you can also use .001 shim stock and the 620. Or get a larger barrel extension. A tight fit will improve accuracy.
Thanks. Don't plan on it but, nice to know.
30 to 80lbs??? This essentially means it doesn't matter. I'm a mechanic and slowly learning ARs. 30 to 80 is like the difference between an intake manifold and the heads or even the main bearings!
...Not all barrels are the same, Not all barrel nuts are the same, Not all gas systems are the same, Not all upper receivers are the same....
The reason for 30-80ft lbs is to make sure it is tight enough while not exceeding 80ft lbs while trying to get the gas system to line up with your barrel nut while tightening. You want at least 30ft lbs but you can go up to 80ft lbs if required to line the gas ports up....................................lol. If proper torque and alignment of the gas system is not possible, barrel nut shims are required. I'm a mechanic and this should be a given lol.
Yeah, its like don't leave it loose so as to fall apart, and don't tighten so much to ruin parts or strip threads.
Yea I got it now. That was kind of a retarded comment on my end. Bottom line is atleast 30 but no more than 80. Whatever you need to line up the block. I get it now after building a few since then
His torque will be off when the attatchment is not 90 degrees. Bad...
The military uses the same method...Measure the distance, r , between the pivot point and the point the force is applied. Determine the angle θ between the direction of the applied force and the vector between the point the force is applied to the pivot point. Multiply r by F and sin θ , and you will get the torque.
I Hadn't "Torqued" It, and it seems to have worked fine, I just tightened it as far as I could. Over 1,000 rounds and everything still works.
M1 = M2 x L1 / L2 . . . learn it, know it, live it
Propane and Propane accessories
You skipped the frustrating part of a timed barrel nut.
What about oiling the barrel and metal parts on the outside from potential rust
i wipe it down with a lightly oiled rag just before installing handguards. magnese phosphate is rough and porous for a reason.
I'd never knock Larry -- and I'm not -- but I saw a video recently where the guy lapped the face of the receiver to ensure the shoulder of the barrel sat 100% flush. Seemed like a good idea is all I'm saying... ;)
Thanks, Larry.
I always like watching people use a torque wrench improperly.
Yeah, you mean the jerking instead of smooth pulling?
Or how about when they use it to break bolts loose! Mamma mia!
I believe what Drew is talking about is there's a certain way you put the torque wrench on the the barrel nut wrench ... If you do not properly do this you are not properly torquing
The way they show torquing is incorrect. Extending the wrench forward of the pivot point on the torque wrench increases leverage. This gives a false torque reading. It actually torques tighter than them torque wrench shows. The correct way is to have the wrench 90* from the pivot point of the torque wrench. This will give you the correct torque setting.
Drew Henley I told the same to a “guru” and he get mad at my comment. He even said don’t put the adapter at 90 degrees because is wrong 😂😂
Lindo ficou
That’s probably he’s way of installing the barrels but not the best way, viewers keep watching for more tutorials and you guys will find out why, he skip some good tips that will definitely make the difference between mediocre installation and OCD to perfect installation the one perfect and done way.
I wonder how many of these arm chair gunsmiths will admit how far to one side their rear sights sit. You know who you are.
My bca came stock completely wongo. It's almost all the way to the left. Need to Lap that ho. Quality you can trust.😄