I once went to the range and found a stray/forgotten 9mm fmj on the bench. I only shot 1911s and 380s. "Damn, guess I need to buy a Sig now ..." And I did!
Yep...my weakness is grips and buffer tubes. There have been 4 builds I've done that started from an extra grip or buffer tube. It seems logical at the time!
The “oops kit” is a great idea. I would add gas rings and roll pins for the gas block and extractor. I did not know that roll pins were 1-time use, disposable items for a while. When talking about gas tube alignment, it’s important to look at how well the gas tube lines up with the hole in the carrier key on top of your BCG. I learned this the hard way with a crooked carrier key - the gas tube was centered in the receiver but it was deflected to one side every time the BCG came forward because of that crooked carrier key. Accuracy suffered. The solution is to get a properly aligned gas carrier key, not try to muscle the gas tube into alignment with a crooked carrier key.
Better than "OOPS KIT" is to buy a spare LPK minus the PG and Hammer & Trigger, that does not include the A2 pistol grip nor the trigger& hammer. They're meant for builders that are starting with their choice of an upgraded trigger & hammer or the cassette style combos from the build start. Which most everyone upgrades their beginner's A2 pistol grip, then has a spare A2 pistol grip sitting in a box than soon has others join it. If you need a spare A2 psitol grip there are so many on "pay It Forward" threads, you won't have to worry about that spare part being missing. So that Lower Parts Kit minus the 2 most expensive pieces (trigger and hammer) gives a little more than the OOPs Kit but leaves out the must expensive and least likely to wear or break parts. You can always add in a set of spare hammer and trigger pins for $3 to fill that void, then again if your that worried just buy the full LPK on sale and you come cheaper in long run for 1 or everything type deal. If you shoot enough to wear out a trigger/hammer you should have upgraded long ago, if not you are way over do to buy and have spare full LPK laying around for that build that always seems to just happen. Having built spare parts kits up piece buy piece I paid more than buying a whole spare gun, but at the time my budget on allowed a few parts, if I had to do over I would have waited and bought the LPK option, because in the end that's what I did basically. The important thing is not to buy the parts "ala `a cart" because you will pay more than buying a whole spare assembly that you can break down for parts. Able to swap out the section with the parts until you can order and work on it at home on your bench at your leisure. Example by the time you buy most of just a BOLT, piece by piece, you could have bought a complete BCG on sale during the year for less. which means those savings can go to get you all the specialty tools that makes life so much easier. Until you have seen a cracked and broken historic A1 receivers (usually right under the ejection port hole) because someone was too cheap to even buy a $14.99 clam block shell for the vise, let alone the better $99 reaction rod (insert much debate here between which is better ) The savings verses the loss of that upper receiver is well paid for, not mentioning the the lack of fighting to get a difficult muzzle device off, for having a better hold on the parts in the vice.
Same here!! Literally waiting for my parts to arrive in the mail to piece together my upper and since it’s my first time I’m so glad I saw the part about the barrel nut lol
I've been lucky, I like to live dangerously. I'm several builds in (not quite double digits yet) and I've never lost a detent (knocks on closest wooden object) I've launched them 2 or 3 times but I've always been able to find them. And I've never had spares on hand. Being an aircraft mechanic has made me good at finding tiny things that try to dissappear
I've never put the castle nut on backwards, but once I put the end plate behind the castle nut for storage while accumulating parts for a build then forgot about it when putting it all together 😂
Another great Brownells video. On the topic of people using the incorrect springs in incorrect locations, or simply experiencing the nuisance of looking in an Ooops kit full of springs, or a parts pile, for the *correct* spring needed, I find it odd that a color-coding system hasn't been devised to make identification of individual spring types (using individually-identifiable spring colors) from a pile of springs easier. At least, I've never seen such a color-coded set. In the model R/C world shock absorber spring types/weights are sometimes color-coded in this fashion to make selecting the correct spring the first time a no-brainer.
In 40 years of doing this I've never had a problem with the barrel nut not indexing correctly. Torque/back off twice to 30 ft-lbs. Now torque up to 30 ft-lbs and put down the torque wrench, replacing it with a breaker bar. At this point you don't need to know the torque. What is correct is the next notch aligning. It just has to be a minimum of 31 ft-lbs. That's it!
Good point on the disconnector spring. I found out there is an identical diameter spring which is shorter and appeared to be the right one. It worked ok for a few rounds -until it didn't, then fired a double in a very dangerous near accident!
I do wanna thank you guys. Been watching many videos for my build and am currently waiting for my ssae-x trigger to ship….and my ssa-x spring kit to ship…..from Geissele (just the spring kit) if you’ve ever dealt with Geissele you know it ain’t the slow mailman!!! It’s the fifteen weeks it takes Geissele to actually put the part on the mail!!! Anyway, I realize the trigger will show up and I don’t even want to install it until the spring kit arrives and I most likely wouldn’t have known the disconnect spring only goes 1 way. I’ll take sure to do it correctly when I swap spring sets to install the trigger itself. Yall almost had me going on the machine gun trick lol
Should have seen Geissele Black Friday & Cyber Monday ( a few years before the covid snapfu supply chain issues) a few years back , took until the end of January & beginning of February to get an order of every day parts. That were all back in stock and would ship at full price the all during that time from them. Geissele may build good parts but their customer service is horrible. Luckily none of that order was planned as Christmas gifts.... The fact they had everything in stock and people order it full price to only return and call telling them had proof they had the parts receipt of the RMA that they could fill their order only made it worst. Bill Geissele answer was to issue coupons for see on the website, which all the items the coupons were good for were never in stock for 6 months until all the coupons expired, when called out and social media back lash Geissele then made those never will be stock coupon not have an expiration date on them. TL;DR if you need something of Geissele parts, order them from a reputable vendor on the big sales days (when prices are more resonable) like Brownells or PSA that has the items in stock when they sell it to you. I was fine waiting a few weeks, but few months to get things like charging handles, their basic trigger, and tools, that was absurd. The it is in stock only at full retail was insult, proving it was just they were overwhelmed with more orders than expected, but were only honoring their sale when they had back logs of each part on their shelves.
In that case you're better off getting one of the LPKs without the fire control group (trigger and hammer, + A2 pistol grip), they make great spare part kits and the first time you upgrade a trigger you get the most expensive parts in the LPK as spares then. Everyone quickly has spare A2 pistol grips as that is the first improvement piece they swap out. However if needed they will include one, as you can spare parts piece meal to any kit. It however cheaper to buy a complete BCG on sale during the year than just build up the spare parts one by one for the BOLT alone.
One of the first mistake’s I made as a beginner was not having the buffer tube detent pressed down when removing the buffer tube. Then the spare parts you mentioned surely comes to mind .
Good way to put your eye out 😂 Only reason I know this. Bc I almost did it installing a folder. Got in a hurry and forgot to secure that detent before I started unscrewing the tube.
I once bought an FN FAL that the owner had built himself. What he didn't tell me is that it had a tendency to "double," i.e., one pull of the trigger would fire two quick rounds -- which, uh, the ranges I fired it at did NOT approve of, lol. I ended up finding out almost by accident that the problem was an upside-down spring somewhere involved with the trigger (as I recall, the FAL trigger was significantly different in design from the AR-15). That spring was VERY subtly conical. It never double fired again. When I mentioned it to the seller he THEN acknowledged that, yeah, it double-fired sometimes, and he couldn't figure out why, LOL.
These are all really good. Thanks guys- these are a good resource for later times, too. I watch some of your educational videos years later and remember them- thanks!
My first AR15 was an Essential Arms with a barrel that had seen too much heat in full auto and was completely trashed. When I went to install a new Hbar on it, I found the dremel had been used to provide clearance for the gas tube. ☹
on my very first build, I didn't install the bolt catch spring. my small parts kit was for both upper and lower, it didn;t feel right, and I realized what I did when I had a spring left over. i corrected it and the rifle works great.
A lot of comments regarding dremels, which makes sense because they are fabulous tools. I largely stopped using mine when I bought a Van Norman #12 milling machine. Sure it uses more angry pixies than a dremel thanks to its 3 phase 440vac @ 2.5A power requirements, but there is no limit to the accurate modifications one can do to any material - even wood and plastic. Shop around gents (and ladies) as milling machines really are affordable on the secondhand market and are within an hour or two drive away from your home shop.
The castle nut on backwards, that’s a guy who also owns an M14 clone. The flash hider has a castle nut that goes on just like that. It’s got a funky wrench to put it on.
I've never installed a mil spec trigger from parts kits and now you have me paranoid wondering if I put the wrong spring in the bolt catch. Luckily it seems like it shouldn't be easily possible.
I've definitely lost an ejector before 😅 little guy shot off like a rocket 😢😂 definitely a good part to have on stand-by. I've got a bunch of oops kits and spare parts now thankfully. Great video as always
Came across a factory rifle the other day that had a milspec barrel nut which would not index at any proper torque value, so at the factory, they just put it on loose and lined it up and then just used the gas tube to hold it in place. It was enough to hold the barrel in, but it was loose enough that I could remove it by hand.
Since you’re talking about putting in wrong springs in the wrong locations and possibly wrong detents. Would love to see a close up video of each part and corresponding locations. Building my first AR in the process and praying for the best
Wow, that point about the disconnector spring was eye opening! Built my first lower a couple months ago and I guess I got extremely lucky by using a little common sense when I noticed the hole the spring sits in fit perfectly with the larger end of the spring.. I did however, originally install the hammer spring backwards so when I function checked the trigger, I thought to myself “that hammer speed seems a little slow”
The first AR I ever assembled for a customer had this problem and I had no shims. I torqued it as much as I could until it would not budge, but the tooth was still blocking the gas tube so I ground it down. The customer later complimented me on how accurate his rifle was. I was lucky and never did this again.
One thing I have never thought of, and in dozens of builds have never had happen. Found out the hard way that it is so simple but one of the Worst Simple Mistakes I have made because now That Lower Receiver is useless to me (and it is a nice one that I was looking forward to using) When installing the Front Pivot Pin in the Lower Receiver, I accidentally dropped the Detent In First - and Then the Spring. Used my tool to compress it to get ready to install the Pivot Pin. And now I have a Detent STUCK in the bottom of that skinny hole, and have been racking my brain for almost a year thinking of ways to get it out. Ordered a Tiny Cylindrical Magnet, but if it were loose enough to come out That way - it'd probably just have came loose with a Whack. It is in there pretty tight and dammit, I really want to use this Lower for a Build already. Don't make this mistake... ((ALSO>>> Any suggestions are certainly welcome))
What if you measured the length of a detent, then clipped that amount off of the pin spring? So it's sticking as far forward as it would be normally. You could also try drilling a thin drill bit into the detent and then using a pair of pliers to pull it out as one piece. And hit the area with a heat gun to expand the aluminum enough for the detent to come back out without too much effort. Just an idea, I'm not a gunsmith.
I mentioned this on the previous video. Clock the buffer tube at 6 oclock when tightening castle nut to prevent a canted buttstock. The endplate does not center the tube, as you tighten the castle nut the tube turns with it and will be canted.
@@hairydogstailI've wanted one of those jigs a couple of times just couldn't justify the expense for all the more I would use it. My eyeball got my dad's approval so I'll take it. Best way I've found to do it. Is flip it upside down and align the buffer tube notches with the centerline of grip looking down it from the rear.
@@matthewbeaver5026I hear you, I did it the hard way for decades.. The jigs will keep the buffer tube perfectly straight while getting the proper castle nut torque..They are also perfect for staking the castle nut too.. Like all things, the proper tools can make any project a lot easier, better and professional..
I'm not sure if other kits do this, but i noticed PSA lower parts kits come with 3 sets of takedown springs and detents.i haven't needed the extra set yet so now i have like 5 or 6 extra springs and detents haha
The castle nut issue, I almost did that recently. Once I went to use the armorer’s wrench I realized what I did. I took it off and flipped it and did it right.
The oops kit is an awesome thing to have handy during a build and they are pretty cheap. I recently was switching out my forged receiver for a billet one and upgrading my buffer system to an A5, which came with a Forward Controls castle nut. I'm happy to see these guys approve of this product. When I was switching out the parts I had a takedown detent get launched into the twilight zone. I didn't have a spare, oops. I ended up temporarily making one. The way I made it was a took an allen wrench that was slightly too large and cut the L off of it. Next I chucked it up in my drill and mounted it and used it with a file like a mini lathe. I googled the exact specs on length and diameter and keep checking with my calipers, and even shaped the tips to look similar. This is obviously not as good as factory, but still better than cutting off a nail like some people do. The allen wrench is at least better than the mild steel like with a nail. I even heated it up and quenched it in oil and polished it with a buffing pad on my Dremel with a black polishing stick. I will replace it eventually, but it works like factory for now. I just wasn't willing to wait on a part to arrive in the mail, I wanted it done that day.
Awhile back I broke a standard ink pen. Once I had the ink cleaned up I looked at the tip and thought to myself. 'Ya know just a little bit shorter and that's the same size as a detent' I threw it and the spring from the pen both in the bag. Just in case. The spring looks almost identical to the buffer retainer spring. In a pinch it'll get ya by til ya get a good one.
I assembled a carbine style last weekend. Assembled the upper. Assembled the lower, staked the castle nut in place. Only then did I put the upper and lower together. It wouldn't close because the buffer tube was one complete rotation too far into the lower and prevented the upper from closing. 🤦♂️. So I had to undo the stake, back out the buffer tube, and retake the castle nut. Now it looks like someone used old parts. Make sure it fits entirely before staking the castle nut.
Hi there, always instructal. If you pay attention or take a couple pictures on your phone how can you put things back wrong. I'm a mechanic, so i've never understood that part but seen it so many times. Keep up the good videos
Another issue would be or has been with me is on certain manufacturers that made an "improvement" to aid in less 'Springs with Wings" scenarios. Like the Aero Precision, using a screw to hold in the rear takedown pin spring in place, when monkeying with the buffer-tube. Since you are adding a length to the application of the mil-spec spring, it won't fit in the hole. You have to remove the screw length to get it to fit... Not seeing that in any instructions unless you hunt for it, there is a moment of dah.
I know it’s gonna sound pedantic but I’m just gonna say it: Get someone to do a post audio mix on these videos. Whether that’s the video editor or an actual post audio mixer (whatever fits your budget for these videos). The phasing and noise is pretty bad; cut the empty tracks when there is no dialogue and add short fades to the end of each clip. It will increase audio quality significantly.
Can you folks give some tips on a .300 Blackout build especially with focus on the different lengths (pistol, carbine, rifle) and the gas system and buffer springs and buffers needed to get the build working with a wide range of ammo both suppressed and not suppressed ? Thanks
1. That's why I "set the barrel nut"... makes it easier to index the nut. 2. Most "parts kits" do include (usually) extra spring and detents...for the take down pins... 3. 🤔...got nothing. 4. That's why I love CMMG part kits...each step of building is in a separate colored bag. 5. Again nothing...lol.
12:00 99.99% of the time when the disconnector fails to grab the hammer, the design of the bolt carrier causes the hammer to follow the bolt carrier home slow enough to prevent the gun from slam firing. The gun will likely not fire the subsequent rounds. It's good to note that the disconnector on the AR-15 does NOT prevent full-auto fire, it ENABLES semi-automatic fire. Without it, the gun would become a single shot.
1. Instead of the "OOPS Kit" buy the other option of a "LPK without the trigger and hammer (LPK=Lower Parts Kit), because the first trigger you upgrade will give the most expensive parts as spares to round out that to complete LPK. You have spare A2 pistol grips from the first part everyone upgrades. Theses LPG with Trigger &Hammer were intended for people buying lower parts that are starting with their choice of an upgraged trigger, but they get you all the parts for less money, with more parts than that "oops kit" option. As buying an LPK together is way cheaper than buying the parts as spares as ala `a cart or piece by piece. Same saving occurs if you buy a complete BCG then if you try to buy just all the parts of Bolt as spares parts individually. You can also through the high breakage items on orders as you go , like order spare gas rings 3X (high wear item) spare detents as they add nothing to shipping and cost is barely a rounding error. The hardest part is buying the empty plastic box then deciding where you want to put the spare parts, as first you fill it with accessories, like a Blank Firing adapter. 2. Also use a sacrificial hammer and punch, meaning they are made of softer materials then what they are hitting, so if damage is caused they'll take the blunt of it on AR-15 builds. As you never are really having to drive anything home like with framing lumber. The right hammers are worth harbor freight cost until you treat yourself to the better ones. A small brass Ball pen hammer beats a claw hammer for pounding in roll pins or hitting punches, all the weight is balanced for the blow to impact better. Same thing with sacrificial hammer with the 4 heads that screw on and off to be replaced as they wear out. Hard to scratch through that protective tape when doing the bolt catch if the hammer head is plastic and blow bounces off and slides along the receiver. The Hard Plastic will take the damage before the anodized finishes will, besides a scuff mark you can wipe away. 2.5 Test fir each part for movement before committing to drive any roll pin. Because taking roll pin back out sucks. Then see #3 for way you should have listened about test fitting for motion. 3. Roll Pins are very much like nails. Using a fresh new one beats reusing a beaten then pulled out one. So spare roll pins are nice to have and cheap, as they cost literally cents a piece, especially in bulk kits. Just look for if the pin is cut with split or the edges are actually rolled inward on that split of the pin. The higher quality ones are curled under, not just cut. You can slight squeeze the tip to make it easier to start with some oik. Then when through you use a transfer punch set (28 piece from harbor freight until you buy better ones) of the next size up to use the tip to flare back out both sides to help the roll pin. So the roll pin is held and stays in place even better. 4. Add parts to every order for the guns you have, to slowly build up your spare parts collection for what you own. Because when they wear out and break down the road trying to match the right generation or worse an out of production model can get to be pain and expensive. Sometimes requiring a gun to be come a donor for parts. Which we don't want guns to be turned into their parts again do we? Save the parts with their order number on the bags , with printout of the order (if you do not have dedicate plastic divider cases for each gun's spare parts) and you can search them up online, if the sharpie ink smudges over the years. That way you don't have to use micrometer to guess which roll pin is for what part on which gun. Labeling the bags if not done by the parts house is little more work but years down the road it pays off. 5. No matter the cheat or hack, nothing beats having the right tool for the job. Buy the cheaper ones first but over time you'll buy the nicer ones and see the difference. This is a journey and many of the tools will help you out in other repair projects through out your life. Once you have the right tools for the right job, you will never want to go back to just getting by with make shift solution and why should you? 5.5 Pay attention to the special ""gunsmithing"" or "machinist" screw driver bits that are straight sided and ground to be flat shafts instead of slopped sides. They will grab the screw better and do less damage so you don't create raised metal burs on the edges of the screw slots. Especially on the flat heads. Although the 6-in-1 screw driver is nice to have, the reason is the two ends are different sizes for the hex shaped screw bit tip shafts. So you can take them out and use the tool as a nut driver, which fits the most common 1/4th" and 5/16" hexheaded screws. A 4-in-1 has the same size shaft on both ends and only give you one nut driver option. While not the correct tool for the job, it will help you on many other around the home jobs like working on appliances.
Don't install your trigger guard backwards kids lol especially if it's not a GI one that isn't straight across. I did it once by mistake with a FCD Winter trigger guard. Couldn't get the roll pin out so I used 3 drill bits, going up in size each time, using the roll pin as a jig to keep everything aligned, drilled a big enough hole through the receiver to punch out the roll pin. Used my rounded file to smooth everything out. Gave the build a rattle can job anyway, and honestly now it's a feature lol
Actually, IF you take your time, and ACTUALLY study just a little bit, most people can build an AR-15 without any problems. BUT, you DO have to take your time, and study a little. I purchased a small paperback book on the AR-15 , and read it a couple of times while I was waiting for my kit to arrive. And my rifle went together with no issues. And I purchased a KIT. The only thing that was done for me was the headspace was set at the factory. The rest I did myself.
First time I assembled an AR, I thought many springs looked alike. Now, if someone randomly handed me a spring I could tell them what it is. That was something I didn't think I would learn.
I've taught few how to build, I tell them first one with help well be about 45 minutes to 1 hour. Their 2nd one will take 30-40 minutes if alone, and their 3rd alone or with someone will be 15-20 minutes to tools up. However, that 4th one will be done with a sandwich in one hand, while showing their new friend how to build their first lower and save "assembled for you" gun tax penalty ....
Heres some mistake I made that you could find useful to talk about. A bought a cheap barrel nut wrench that stripped itself and the barrel nut of teeth. I tried not to buy a upper reciever/extension shaft for the vice because they are expensive and O thought that I could just tight the barrel into the reciever by wrapping it in a towel and putting it in a vice, it bent and warped my upper. Overtorquing the muzzle device/barrel. And finally, getting ahead of yourself and forgetting to remove the gas tube before the barrel nut. Some pretty dumb and costly mistakes.
First AR I built, front take down detent went into orbit in my cluttered and dark garage. Bounced off my foot and I found it laying there right next to my foot. What luck! That was close. Tried again to install it and off to orbit it went again, never to be heard from again.
I had a boo boo on an AR build. Loose pins for trigger, they walked out, and guess what, became a multi fire gun. Three shots for one trigger pull, or more. Had to get pins that don't walk.
Was a professional gunsmith for 30 years. And I've had customers bring me weapons with parts in plastic bags, boxes, and such. Parts missing, or ground up being unusable. I referred to them as "Bubba gunsmiths", where not knowing what they're doing and destroying their weapons. There were times that I wish the Dremel tool was never invented. When Bubba brought me a wrecked weapon, his repair cost just doubled. And I'd tell him to take that Dremel tool out to the garage and use it to sharpen lawnmower blades.
I really mean no insult by this I promise, love the videos to much and have learned way more than I could have ever hoped for from you gentlemen but I have to ask, sometimes it seems like Steve is shall we say a little put off by things Caleb does or says, is it just Steves personality or is it a generational thing? Love you guys and keep up the great work.
How about those who decide to do their own trigger job, and use too coarse of a grit stone or sandpaper on the trigger group parts that you would polish, or they round over sharp edges?
My mistake was getting the more expensive lower parts kit from geisllie, and it came with a bolt catch/release that was to big for my upper (bear creek upper side charger). It's not something people are likely to come by, but I had to take an angle grinder to the large bolt catch so it would fit. Blasphemy, right? But it works now. Nothing against gieslie.. just go for the standard lower parts kit, take it from me. Otherwise, you might get a jam-o-matic.
I had this issue bc psa kept sending me an ar10 catch. I'd said to them that it was a 6.5 grendel (also a bca) build. 2 diff ppl heard 6.5 and thought Creedmoor. 'there's NO way this is going to fit' 🙄🤦♂️
Just a thought guys, do you think it would be possible that when you mention a certain tool, or part or even a Oops Kit that in the description of the Video you could put links to the Brownells site where that item could be purchased?
Check out the first two videos here- th-cam.com/video/dqrd9q_brvk/w-d-xo.html and th-cam.com/video/zbMLogIhpSY/w-d-xo.html
What is the tool box you get into ?
Where can I get one of those
I just bought my first Dremel and cant wait to start gunsmithing.
Best tool for every job in every industry, duct tape is up there too.
Depending on the Dremel, You should be all set to mill a slide for a red dot.
Ouch. Too soon.
Semi pro tip, the small DC voltage ones, in combination with the rubber eraser polishing tips, do work quite well. Nothing more than that though.
I recommend a course of study at the Wile E. Coyote School of Gunsmithing.
The problem with just having one extra detent pin... It usually grows into another AR.
Oh yea. Every time
I wouldn’t say that’s a problem!, 😂
I once went to the range and found a stray/forgotten 9mm fmj on the bench. I only shot 1911s and 380s.
"Damn, guess I need to buy a Sig now ..."
And I did!
@@737215 Sig Pistol? You dropped it and lost the round again? Teehee.
Yep...my weakness is grips and buffer tubes. There have been 4 builds I've done that started from an extra grip or buffer tube.
It seems logical at the time!
At this point I’m convinced that Caleb snuck a hidden can into my shop and just writes down all the dumb shit I do and makes a video about it.
These videos are diagnosing problems I didn't know that I had
Always thought I was healthy until I read a medical journal. Realized how sick I really was.
"Either nothing or everything."😂 Good series here gents. Thanks for the videos.
The “oops kit” is a great idea. I would add gas rings and roll pins for the gas block and extractor. I did not know that roll pins were 1-time use, disposable items for a while.
When talking about gas tube alignment, it’s important to look at how well the gas tube lines up with the hole in the carrier key on top of your BCG. I learned this the hard way with a crooked carrier key - the gas tube was centered in the receiver but it was deflected to one side every time the BCG came forward because of that crooked carrier key. Accuracy suffered.
The solution is to get a properly aligned gas carrier key, not try to muscle the gas tube into alignment with a crooked carrier key.
Better than "OOPS KIT" is to buy a spare LPK minus the PG and Hammer & Trigger, that does not include the A2 pistol grip nor the trigger& hammer. They're meant for builders that are starting with their choice of an upgraded trigger & hammer or the cassette style combos from the build start. Which most everyone upgrades their beginner's A2 pistol grip, then has a spare A2 pistol grip sitting in a box than soon has others join it. If you need a spare A2 psitol grip there are so many on "pay It Forward" threads, you won't have to worry about that spare part being missing. So that Lower Parts Kit minus the 2 most expensive pieces (trigger and hammer) gives a little more than the OOPs Kit but leaves out the must expensive and least likely to wear or break parts. You can always add in a set of spare hammer and trigger pins for $3 to fill that void, then again if your that worried just buy the full LPK on sale and you come cheaper in long run for 1 or everything type deal. If you shoot enough to wear out a trigger/hammer you should have upgraded long ago, if not you are way over do to buy and have spare full LPK laying around for that build that always seems to just happen. Having built spare parts kits up piece buy piece I paid more than buying a whole spare gun, but at the time my budget on allowed a few parts, if I had to do over I would have waited and bought the LPK option, because in the end that's what I did basically.
The important thing is not to buy the parts "ala `a cart" because you will pay more than buying a whole spare assembly that you can break down for parts. Able to swap out the section with the parts until you can order and work on it at home on your bench at your leisure. Example by the time you buy most of just a BOLT, piece by piece, you could have bought a complete BCG on sale during the year for less. which means those savings can go to get you all the specialty tools that makes life so much easier.
Until you have seen a cracked and broken historic A1 receivers (usually right under the ejection port hole) because someone was too cheap to even buy a $14.99 clam block shell for the vise, let alone the better $99 reaction rod (insert much debate here between which is better ) The savings verses the loss of that upper receiver is well paid for, not mentioning the the lack of fighting to get a difficult muzzle device off, for having a better hold on the parts in the vice.
Suggestion: Keep a Farrier's Magnet handy, (Magnet on a pole) they are handy in finding tiny steel objects in carpets or sand.
Yes. Used one a few times. Lol
I use the big magnet on the bottom of my parts tray
Lmfao, never knew my disconnector spring was upside down😂😂 thank you, genuinely
I’m in the process of building a 300 blackout AR so this series is very helpful. Thank you.
Same here!! Literally waiting for my parts to arrive in the mail to piece together my upper and since it’s my first time I’m so glad I saw the part about the barrel nut lol
Adjustable gas blocks gentlemen.
Built one last year. The only issue you may have is your buffer weight. I recommend an H buffer
I've been lucky, I like to live dangerously. I'm several builds in (not quite double digits yet) and I've never lost a detent (knocks on closest wooden object) I've launched them 2 or 3 times but I've always been able to find them. And I've never had spares on hand. Being an aircraft mechanic has made me good at finding tiny things that try to dissappear
I've never put the castle nut on backwards, but once I put the end plate behind the castle nut for storage while accumulating parts for a build then forgot about it when putting it all together 😂
I appreciate the way you guys explain the problems, and demonstrate the right way to do things.
Army: Nobody's stealing, we're just trying to get our stuff back. That brought back memories!
I set up my outdoor camping tent indoors when I assemble. Make sure the zipper is closed.
Another great Brownells video. On the topic of people using the incorrect springs in incorrect locations, or simply experiencing the nuisance of looking in an Ooops kit full of springs, or a parts pile, for the *correct* spring needed, I find it odd that a color-coding system hasn't been devised to make identification of individual spring types (using individually-identifiable spring colors) from a pile of springs easier. At least, I've never seen such a color-coded set. In the model R/C world shock absorber spring types/weights are sometimes color-coded in this fashion to make selecting the correct spring the first time a no-brainer.
In 40 years of doing this I've never had a problem with the barrel nut not indexing correctly. Torque/back off twice to 30 ft-lbs. Now torque up to 30 ft-lbs and put down the torque wrench, replacing it with a breaker bar. At this point you don't need to know the torque. What is correct is the next notch aligning. It just has to be a minimum of 31 ft-lbs. That's it!
I made that disconnector spring mistake myself on my first build back around 1992 or so. Unexpectedly exciting and got me kicked off a range.
There’s only one thief in the Army. Everyone else is just getting their stuff back.
Had to shim my Aero M5, the barrel nut only has 4 pass throughs for the gas tube, not all those teefs.
Okay, now I'm hungry. Gumbo and Tater Tot Casserole. Great Video. How about a few of those recipes too?
Good point on the disconnector spring. I found out there is an identical diameter spring which is shorter and appeared to be the right one. It worked ok for a few rounds -until it didn't, then fired a double in a very dangerous near accident!
The oops kit is really essential, everyone is going to need a part out of it during a build sooner or later!
Don’t forget to tighten and loosen the barrel nut 3x’s to set the threads and usually indexing will move
Correct, and I always get 70-80 lbs and have never had an issue.
These type of videos are invaluable. It's the little things that matter. Thanks!!!
I do wanna thank you guys. Been watching many videos for my build and am currently waiting for my ssae-x trigger to ship….and my ssa-x spring kit to ship…..from Geissele (just the spring kit) if you’ve ever dealt with Geissele you know it ain’t the slow mailman!!! It’s the fifteen weeks it takes Geissele to actually put the part on the mail!!! Anyway, I realize the trigger will show up and I don’t even want to install it until the spring kit arrives and I most likely wouldn’t have known the disconnect spring only goes 1 way. I’ll take sure to do it correctly when I swap spring sets to install the trigger itself. Yall almost had me going on the machine gun trick lol
Should have seen Geissele Black Friday & Cyber Monday ( a few years before the covid snapfu supply chain issues) a few years back , took until the end of January & beginning of February to get an order of every day parts. That were all back in stock and would ship at full price the all during that time from them. Geissele may build good parts but their customer service is horrible. Luckily none of that order was planned as Christmas gifts.... The fact they had everything in stock and people order it full price to only return and call telling them had proof they had the parts receipt of the RMA that they could fill their order only made it worst. Bill Geissele answer was to issue coupons for see on the website, which all the items the coupons were good for were never in stock for 6 months until all the coupons expired, when called out and social media back lash Geissele then made those never will be stock coupon not have an expiration date on them.
TL;DR if you need something of Geissele parts, order them from a reputable vendor on the big sales days (when prices are more resonable) like Brownells or PSA that has the items in stock when they sell it to you. I was fine waiting a few weeks, but few months to get things like charging handles, their basic trigger, and tools, that was absurd. The it is in stock only at full retail was insult, proving it was just they were overwhelmed with more orders than expected, but were only honoring their sale when they had back logs of each part on their shelves.
I recently had a disconnector spring break on an ar10. Quite the surprise.
Wow ! How many times does that happen ?
Coworker asked my advice once due to his ar running away. Fortunately no injuries, but it was the disconnector spring issue you mentioned
Awesome again guys, thanks. Have been learning so much from you and lovin' the Steve and Caleb Show!
You should of talked about the Colt SP1 semi-auto hammer with the notch cut and bolt carrier. Colt designed them to prevent slam fires.
Make sure your oops kit has the spring and plunger for the bolt catch as well. The one I had didn't have them
In that case you're better off getting one of the LPKs without the fire control group (trigger and hammer, + A2 pistol grip), they make great spare part kits and the first time you upgrade a trigger you get the most expensive parts in the LPK as spares then. Everyone quickly has spare A2 pistol grips as that is the first improvement piece they swap out. However if needed they will include one, as you can spare parts piece meal to any kit. It however cheaper to buy a complete BCG on sale during the year than just build up the spare parts one by one for the BOLT alone.
One of the first mistake’s I made as a beginner was not having the buffer tube detent pressed down when removing the buffer tube. Then the spare parts you mentioned surely comes to mind .
Good way to put your eye out 😂
Only reason I know this. Bc I almost did it installing a folder. Got in a hurry and forgot to secure that detent before I started unscrewing the tube.
Of the 4 I built only two would not line up between the minimum and maximum torque value so I bought a shim set and they worked great.
I once bought an FN FAL that the owner had built himself. What he didn't tell me is that it had a tendency to "double," i.e., one pull of the trigger would fire two quick rounds -- which, uh, the ranges I fired it at did NOT approve of, lol. I ended up finding out almost by accident that the problem was an upside-down spring somewhere involved with the trigger (as I recall, the FAL trigger was significantly different in design from the AR-15). That spring was VERY subtly conical. It never double fired again. When I mentioned it to the seller he THEN acknowledged that, yeah, it double-fired sometimes, and he couldn't figure out why, LOL.
These are all really good. Thanks guys- these are a good resource for later times, too. I watch some of your educational videos years later and remember them- thanks!
Only done 2, but CMMG's LPK has the parts in color-coded bags for different assemblies. Very easy.
You guys are doing your best work now. Appreciate you!
Today's episode is why I, almost exclusively, buy CMMG's lower parts kits. The parts are separated into color coded bags, for each step.
Great series of videos guys. Im about to do my own build and these are mistakes I can avoid.
What kind of vise do you guys have on the bench?
Looks like a 360 vise.
@@thisissparta8884 I’ve determined the style is called a Parrot Vise
My first AR15 was an Essential Arms with a barrel that had seen too much heat in full auto and was completely trashed. When I went to install a new Hbar on it, I found the dremel had been used to provide clearance for the gas tube. ☹
on my very first build, I didn't install the bolt catch spring. my small parts kit was for both upper and lower, it didn;t feel right, and I realized what I did when I had a spring left over. i corrected it and the rifle works great.
You say keep extra parts on hand and I agree. But I just went to your web site yesterday and nope no roll pins for an AR15 gas block.😂
A lot of comments regarding dremels, which makes sense because they are fabulous tools. I largely stopped using mine when I bought a Van Norman #12 milling machine. Sure it uses more angry pixies than a dremel thanks to its 3 phase 440vac @ 2.5A power requirements, but there is no limit to the accurate modifications one can do to any material - even wood and plastic. Shop around gents (and ladies) as milling machines really are affordable on the secondhand market and are within an hour or two drive away from your home shop.
My favorite mistake is pinching the detent spring in the pistol grip or in the rear end cap.
The castle nut on backwards, that’s a guy who also owns an M14 clone. The flash hider has a castle nut that goes on just like that. It’s got a funky wrench to put it on.
I've never installed a mil spec trigger from parts kits and now you have me paranoid wondering if I put the wrong spring in the bolt catch. Luckily it seems like it shouldn't be easily possible.
I've definitely lost an ejector before 😅 little guy shot off like a rocket 😢😂 definitely a good part to have on stand-by. I've got a bunch of oops kits and spare parts now thankfully. Great video as always
Came across a factory rifle the other day that had a milspec barrel nut which would not index at any proper torque value, so at the factory, they just put it on loose and lined it up and then just used the gas tube to hold it in place. It was enough to hold the barrel in, but it was loose enough that I could remove it by hand.
Since you’re talking about putting in wrong springs in the wrong locations and possibly wrong detents. Would love to see a close up video of each part and corresponding locations. Building my first AR in the process and praying for the best
It's on our website!
Wow, that point about the disconnector spring was eye opening! Built my first lower a couple months ago and I guess I got extremely lucky by using a little common sense when I noticed the hole the spring sits in fit perfectly with the larger end of the spring..
I did however, originally install the hammer spring backwards so when I function checked the trigger, I thought to myself “that hammer speed seems a little slow”
Hammer spring backwards will eventually cause the pin to walk too, with commercial ammo you'll probably get ignition, but the pin will walk very soon
@@jthrelf well I mean I did immediately take it out then install it correctly..
The first AR I ever assembled for a customer had this problem and I had no shims. I torqued it as much as I could until it would not budge, but the tooth was still blocking the gas tube so I ground it down. The customer later complimented me on how accurate his rifle was. I was lucky and never did this again.
One thing I have never thought of, and in dozens of builds have never had happen. Found out the hard way that it is so simple but one of the Worst Simple Mistakes I have made because now That Lower Receiver is useless to me (and it is a nice one that I was looking forward to using) When installing the Front Pivot Pin in the Lower Receiver, I accidentally dropped the Detent In First - and Then the Spring. Used my tool to compress it to get ready to install the Pivot Pin. And now I have a Detent STUCK in the bottom of that skinny hole, and have been racking my brain for almost a year thinking of ways to get it out. Ordered a Tiny Cylindrical Magnet, but if it were loose enough to come out That way - it'd probably just have came loose with a Whack. It is in there pretty tight and dammit, I really want to use this Lower for a Build already. Don't make this mistake... ((ALSO>>> Any suggestions are certainly welcome))
What if you measured the length of a detent, then clipped that amount off of the pin spring? So it's sticking as far forward as it would be normally. You could also try drilling a thin drill bit into the detent and then using a pair of pliers to pull it out as one piece. And hit the area with a heat gun to expand the aluminum enough for the detent to come back out without too much effort. Just an idea, I'm not a gunsmith.
I mentioned this on the previous video. Clock the buffer tube at 6 oclock when tightening castle nut to prevent a canted buttstock. The endplate does not center the tube, as you tighten the castle nut the tube turns with it and will be canted.
Or use a proper receiver/buffer tube jig like the one from NcSTAR or TechCo..
@@hairydogstailI've wanted one of those jigs a couple of times just couldn't justify the expense for all the more I would use it.
My eyeball got my dad's approval so I'll take it.
Best way I've found to do it. Is flip it upside down and align the buffer tube notches with the centerline of grip looking down it from the rear.
@@matthewbeaver5026I hear you, I did it the hard way for decades.. The jigs will keep the buffer tube perfectly straight while getting the proper castle nut torque..They are also perfect for staking the castle nut too.. Like all things, the proper tools can make any project a lot easier, better and professional..
I'm not sure if other kits do this, but i noticed PSA lower parts kits come with 3 sets of takedown springs and detents.i haven't needed the extra set yet so now i have like 5 or 6 extra springs and detents haha
The castle nut issue, I almost did that recently. Once I went to use the armorer’s wrench I realized what I did. I took it off and flipped it and did it right.
The oops kit is an awesome thing to have handy during a build and they are pretty cheap. I recently was switching out my forged receiver for a billet one and upgrading my buffer system to an A5, which came with a Forward Controls castle nut. I'm happy to see these guys approve of this product.
When I was switching out the parts I had a takedown detent get launched into the twilight zone. I didn't have a spare, oops. I ended up temporarily making one.
The way I made it was a took an allen wrench that was slightly too large and cut the L off of it.
Next I chucked it up in my drill and mounted it and used it with a file like a mini lathe.
I googled the exact specs on length and diameter and keep checking with my calipers, and even shaped the tips to look similar.
This is obviously not as good as factory, but still better than cutting off a nail like some people do. The allen wrench is at least better than the mild steel like with a nail. I even heated it up and quenched it in oil and polished it with a buffing pad on my Dremel with a black polishing stick. I will replace it eventually, but it works like factory for now. I just wasn't willing to wait on a part to arrive in the mail, I wanted it done that day.
Awhile back I broke a standard ink pen. Once I had the ink cleaned up I looked at the tip and thought to myself. 'Ya know just a little bit shorter and that's the same size as a detent'
I threw it and the spring from the pen both in the bag. Just in case. The spring looks almost identical to the buffer retainer spring. In a pinch it'll get ya by til ya get a good one.
Steve just did a Midwest mic drop on Caleb with his casual “tater tot casserole” troll! Love it!! So subtle, but so loud!!
I assembled a carbine style last weekend. Assembled the upper. Assembled the lower, staked the castle nut in place. Only then did I put the upper and lower together. It wouldn't close because the buffer tube was one complete rotation too far into the lower and prevented the upper from closing. 🤦♂️. So I had to undo the stake, back out the buffer tube, and retake the castle nut. Now it looks like someone used old parts. Make sure it fits entirely before staking the castle nut.
Hi there, always instructal. If you pay attention or take a couple pictures on your phone how can you put things back wrong. I'm a mechanic, so i've never understood that part but seen it so many times. Keep up the good videos
Iv grown to love this channel thanks for the info it has helped alot.
Outstanding video of yours. Thank you for sharing 🙏
Another issue would be or has been with me is on certain manufacturers that made an "improvement" to aid in less 'Springs with Wings" scenarios. Like the Aero Precision, using a screw to hold in the rear takedown pin spring in place, when monkeying with the buffer-tube. Since you are adding a length to the application of the mil-spec spring, it won't fit in the hole. You have to remove the screw length to get it to fit... Not seeing that in any instructions unless you hunt for it, there is a moment of dah.
I'm making my disconnecter spring conversion right now! Thanks!
P.s. - Don't tell ATF.
I know it’s gonna sound pedantic but I’m just gonna say it:
Get someone to do a post audio mix on these videos. Whether that’s the video editor or an actual post audio mixer (whatever fits your budget for these videos). The phasing and noise is pretty bad; cut the empty tracks when there is no dialogue and add short fades to the end of each clip. It will increase audio quality significantly.
Can you folks give some tips on a .300 Blackout build especially with focus on the different lengths (pistol, carbine, rifle) and the gas system and buffer springs and buffers needed to get the build working with a wide range of ammo both suppressed and not suppressed ? Thanks
1. That's why I "set the barrel nut"... makes it easier to index the nut.
2. Most "parts kits" do include (usually) extra spring and detents...for the take down pins...
3. 🤔...got nothing.
4. That's why I love CMMG part kits...each step of building is in a separate colored bag.
5. Again nothing...lol.
My PSAs came separated but not color coded.
Outstanding series, guys 👏
This dry humor is perfection.
12:00 99.99% of the time when the disconnector fails to grab the hammer, the design of the bolt carrier causes the hammer to follow the bolt carrier home slow enough to prevent the gun from slam firing. The gun will likely not fire the subsequent rounds. It's good to note that the disconnector on the AR-15 does NOT prevent full-auto fire, it ENABLES semi-automatic fire. Without it, the gun would become a single shot.
1. Instead of the "OOPS Kit" buy the other option of a "LPK without the trigger and hammer (LPK=Lower Parts Kit), because the first trigger you upgrade will give the most expensive parts as spares to round out that to complete LPK. You have spare A2 pistol grips from the first part everyone upgrades. Theses LPG with Trigger &Hammer were intended for people buying lower parts that are starting with their choice of an upgraged trigger, but they get you all the parts for less money, with more parts than that "oops kit" option. As buying an LPK together is way cheaper than buying the parts as spares as ala `a cart or piece by piece. Same saving occurs if you buy a complete BCG then if you try to buy just all the parts of Bolt as spares parts individually. You can also through the high breakage items on orders as you go , like order spare gas rings 3X (high wear item) spare detents as they add nothing to shipping and cost is barely a rounding error. The hardest part is buying the empty plastic box then deciding where you want to put the spare parts, as first you fill it with accessories, like a Blank Firing adapter.
2. Also use a sacrificial hammer and punch, meaning they are made of softer materials then what they are hitting, so if damage is caused they'll take the blunt of it on AR-15 builds. As you never are really having to drive anything home like with framing lumber. The right hammers are worth harbor freight cost until you treat yourself to the better ones. A small brass Ball pen hammer beats a claw hammer for pounding in roll pins or hitting punches, all the weight is balanced for the blow to impact better. Same thing with sacrificial hammer with the 4 heads that screw on and off to be replaced as they wear out. Hard to scratch through that protective tape when doing the bolt catch if the hammer head is plastic and blow bounces off and slides along the receiver. The Hard Plastic will take the damage before the anodized finishes will, besides a scuff mark you can wipe away.
2.5 Test fir each part for movement before committing to drive any roll pin. Because taking roll pin back out sucks. Then see #3 for way you should have listened about test fitting for motion.
3. Roll Pins are very much like nails. Using a fresh new one beats reusing a beaten then pulled out one. So spare roll pins are nice to have and cheap, as they cost literally cents a piece, especially in bulk kits. Just look for if the pin is cut with split or the edges are actually rolled inward on that split of the pin. The higher quality ones are curled under, not just cut. You can slight squeeze the tip to make it easier to start with some oik. Then when through you use a transfer punch set (28 piece from harbor freight until you buy better ones) of the next size up to use the tip to flare back out both sides to help the roll pin. So the roll pin is held and stays in place even better.
4. Add parts to every order for the guns you have, to slowly build up your spare parts collection for what you own. Because when they wear out and break down the road trying to match the right generation or worse an out of production model can get to be pain and expensive. Sometimes requiring a gun to be come a donor for parts. Which we don't want guns to be turned into their parts again do we? Save the parts with their order number on the bags , with printout of the order (if you do not have dedicate plastic divider cases for each gun's spare parts) and you can search them up online, if the sharpie ink smudges over the years. That way you don't have to use micrometer to guess which roll pin is for what part on which gun. Labeling the bags if not done by the parts house is little more work but years down the road it pays off.
5. No matter the cheat or hack, nothing beats having the right tool for the job. Buy the cheaper ones first but over time you'll buy the nicer ones and see the difference. This is a journey and many of the tools will help you out in other repair projects through out your life. Once you have the right tools for the right job, you will never want to go back to just getting by with make shift solution and why should you?
5.5 Pay attention to the special ""gunsmithing"" or "machinist" screw driver bits that are straight sided and ground to be flat shafts instead of slopped sides. They will grab the screw better and do less damage so you don't create raised metal burs on the edges of the screw slots. Especially on the flat heads. Although the 6-in-1 screw driver is nice to have, the reason is the two ends are different sizes for the hex shaped screw bit tip shafts. So you can take them out and use the tool as a nut driver, which fits the most common 1/4th" and 5/16" hexheaded screws. A 4-in-1 has the same size shaft on both ends and only give you one nut driver option. While not the correct tool for the job, it will help you on many other around the home jobs like working on appliances.
Thanks guys! I really enjoy these ..
love the tips bro
Always great content. Thank you.
Don't install your trigger guard backwards kids lol especially if it's not a GI one that isn't straight across.
I did it once by mistake with a FCD Winter trigger guard. Couldn't get the roll pin out so I used 3 drill bits, going up in size each time, using the roll pin as a jig to keep everything aligned, drilled a big enough hole through the receiver to punch out the roll pin. Used my rounded file to smooth everything out. Gave the build a rattle can job anyway, and honestly now it's a feature lol
Where did you get that neat toolbox? It is like AR central.
5:21 - Detent Spring Gumbo!! 🤣
Good stuff and fun video. Thanks!
Haha, I was actually taking a drink when Steve said that.
Actually, IF you take your time, and ACTUALLY study just a little bit, most people can build an AR-15 without any problems. BUT, you DO have to take your time, and study a little. I purchased a small paperback book on the AR-15 , and read it a couple of times while I was waiting for my kit to arrive. And my rifle went together with no issues. And I purchased a KIT. The only thing that was done for me was the headspace was set at the factory. The rest I did myself.
First time I assembled an AR, I thought many springs looked alike. Now, if someone randomly handed me a spring I could tell them what it is. That was something I didn't think I would learn.
I've taught few how to build, I tell them first one with help well be about 45 minutes to 1 hour. Their 2nd one will take 30-40 minutes if alone, and their 3rd alone or with someone will be 15-20 minutes to tools up. However, that 4th one will be done with a sandwich in one hand, while showing their new friend how to build their first lower and save "assembled for you" gun tax penalty ....
Heres some mistake I made that you could find useful to talk about. A bought a cheap barrel nut wrench that stripped itself and the barrel nut of teeth.
I tried not to buy a upper reciever/extension shaft for the vice because they are expensive and O thought that I could just tight the barrel into the reciever by wrapping it in a towel and putting it in a vice, it bent and warped my upper.
Overtorquing the muzzle device/barrel.
And finally, getting ahead of yourself and forgetting to remove the gas tube before the barrel nut. Some pretty dumb and costly mistakes.
On one of my first builds, a handguard manufacturer shipped a small unlabeled tube of green Loctite. I thought it was barrel nut assembly lube.
First AR I built, front take down detent went into orbit in my cluttered and dark garage. Bounced off my foot and I found it laying there right next to my foot. What luck! That was close. Tried again to install it and off to orbit it went again, never to be heard from again.
Lost in orbit detents is the big problem.
I had a boo boo on an AR build. Loose pins for trigger, they walked out, and guess what, became a multi fire gun. Three shots for one trigger pull, or more. Had to get pins that don't walk.
The hardest part to find was a receiver end plate for a rifle buffer tube. You're not always told That the fixed rifle stock is the end plate.
I did a ton of research on AR builds before i even did my first including watching the videos where people totally screwed up
Steve we don't want the gun to run away. Me: Don't we though don't we lol
The thing is I don’t have an AR but it’s good to know stuff 😁👍.
Brownells should sell those cutaway AR's as displays.
For the next video; people who put red loctite or rockset on the barrel nut.
Was a professional gunsmith for 30 years. And I've had customers bring me weapons with parts in plastic bags, boxes, and such. Parts missing, or ground up being unusable. I referred to them as "Bubba gunsmiths", where not knowing what they're doing and destroying their weapons. There were times that I wish the Dremel tool was never invented. When Bubba brought me a wrecked weapon, his repair cost just doubled. And I'd tell him to take that Dremel tool out to the garage and use it to sharpen lawnmower blades.
I really mean no insult by this I promise, love the videos to much and have learned way more than I could have ever hoped for from you gentlemen but I have to ask, sometimes it seems like Steve is shall we say a little put off by things Caleb does or says, is it just Steves personality or is it a generational thing? Love you guys and keep up the great work.
I'm pretty sure it's part of their routine, kind of like the Laurel and Hardy of gunsmithing. 😎
The biggest mistake I can imagine would be to not do your own build. Get help if needed. All the help you need. But do the build!!
How about those who decide to do their own trigger job, and use too coarse of a grit stone or sandpaper on the trigger group parts that you would polish, or they round over sharp edges?
His taste in food is impeccable. Gumbo and jambalaya? Me being from Louisiana seconds these food choices wholeheartedly
Yup, we stole Caleb from Louisiana.
@@brownells love it lol
@@brownells question is, how hard has Louisiana tried to get him back?
My mistake was getting the more expensive lower parts kit from geisllie, and it came with a bolt catch/release that was to big for my upper (bear creek upper side charger). It's not something people are likely to come by, but I had to take an angle grinder to the large bolt catch so it would fit. Blasphemy, right? But it works now. Nothing against gieslie.. just go for the standard lower parts kit, take it from me. Otherwise, you might get a jam-o-matic.
I had this issue bc psa kept sending me an ar10 catch.
I'd said to them that it was a 6.5 grendel (also a bca) build. 2 diff ppl heard 6.5 and thought Creedmoor. 'there's NO way this is going to fit' 🙄🤦♂️
Y'all didn't mention putting the hammer spring on backwards. I find those alot.
Just a thought guys, do you think it would be possible that when you mention a certain tool, or part or even a Oops Kit that in the description of the Video you could put links to the Brownells site where that item could be purchased?
Censortube prob won't let them. Maybe tools. Parts doubtful
@@matthewbeaver5026 Yeah I did not even think of that.