Common problems on V Twin Nikki Carbs found on Briggs and Stratton Intec engines
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 15 ก.ย. 2016
- In This video I show the average youtuber what each of these parts are as well as show a great way to clean or service your carb. I even provide a great source to find the small o rings that are affected over time allowing the main jets to fall out . {75 Viton size 1x2.5 Qty 25 } Source Mc Master Carr...
Thank you for making such a detailed explanation video of the older Nikki and that you included the newer jet info. Gave me the confidence to do my first complete carburetor rebuild.
I'd been struggling with the same issue, and had cleaned my carb as the first step but I didn't pay enough attention to those small jets and today took it all apart again and found both were clogged almost completely! Ran a .4mm needle through both and now it's running great! Thanks for the video!
Very good video. I just placed my order for o-rings from McMaster Carr using the model number you provided. It was a big help. Thanks!
I bought a $6.50 kit that included the bowl oring, emulsion tube orange, (2) jet Owings, and a seal and gasket for tube. Thank goodness I didn't have to pay >$80. It is people like you that are saving us real money thankyou!
The way you explain everything is top notch! This is first class information!
Thank you viewers like you keep me motivated to provide content like this...it's always nice to receive kind words for my effort. if I can help in anyway with a small engine problem don't hesitate to ask.
Thanks very much for this video Kevin. And especially big thanks for pointing out that the early versions of this carburetor do not have those two jets (or O rings) seated in the fuel transfer. Mine is an early version and does not have those two jets. And up until yesterday it worked perfectly.
This is a great video! You're very detailed and go at just the right pace, showing everything possible. Also, I didn't know about McMaster-Carr. Paid $8 just for the bowl O-ring elsewhere! And it didn't fit. :(
great video and thanks for the tip on the O-Rings Viton size 1MM wide X 2,5MM ID (metric size) Viton is a material resistant to chemicals and will last on the carburetor, I found the Mc Master Carr Part number 1185N21 and are 25 for $5.59 they have black and brown color, this part number is for brown O-Rings
thx for the O-ring info. Was having hard time figuring out the sizes.
Great video! I used your tips to cure my B&S 20hp Intek engine fom backfiring and spitting fuel. Thans a million!! Bob
found the jets loose and not fully seated in one of these, thought it didn't seem right, thanks for this confirmation, will now attempt to fix instead of ordering replacement carb
Very good video! I have been battling one of these engines for 2 weeks. I bought 2 new jets one briggs one from eBay. Orings were not the same. It was perrty tough getting the non oem in. 2 diffrent part numbers. But can't hardly read anything in jet
Thank you Kevin, your video helped me throughout the rebuild process.
Great video 👍
Thanks / always glad to help respectful viewers .
Thanks for the great video. In Canada, the new jets are expensive and hard to find. Your tip regarding the Viton o-rings saved me a bunch of money and down time!
Thanks/ its always nice to receive a compliment ........Glad to have helped ...
McMaster Carr will not sip to Canada right now due to COVID. Would you be willing to sell some to me. I am in Ontario
@@briannicholson2027 Sure. Just not sure how to get in touch. I don't see any option to message you on here and I don't want to post my contact details in a public chat.
Did you end up get the part?@@briannicholson2027
Just finished a 24hp Briggs tune up and simple clean of carb(only bowl side). Still hunting but will even off with partial choke. Going to do the light trick to see how clogged she really is. Thanks for the tips, I’m tired of everyone just telling us to drill out the jets!
Its a great way to visually inspect and by comparing the two holes can easily reveal if additional cleaning is required .
Very thorough video. Thank you.
The passages you discuss at 4min is exactly what was wrong with mine. Thank You!!!!!!!!!!!!!! No more Surging!!!
Your very welcome ....viewers like you make my videos worth while .....Thanks again for the kind words.
Just wanted to say thanks for the video helped me fix my troy built zero turn carb
Your welcome....glad to have helped .
Thank you, helped me a lot to reassemble my carb.
Welcome/ glad to have helped...
Goodon'ya for doing all this work for the help of others!!
Bjorn Valsinger, Alexandra VIC 3714, Australia
Your welcome Bjorn Valsinger as viewers like you make these videos worth the effort and time .And thanks for being a respectful viewer .
My small index drills are made in the USA, quite a few years ago. Only difference is, I don't use carb cleaner on gaskets or plastics! Paper clip also works great with the jets and assembling the o'rings.
I know I am late to this video, but I appreciate the effort and explanation on it. I had no idea the two jets are different size. In my case, I could hardly get mine to run without keeping it choked before I tore it down. Mine is the later variant and mated to a plastic manifold. I found the ports to the heads were leaking air past the o rings due to warpage. I found the face of the manifold to the carb warped and letting in air as well. I also found that the rubber gasket under the transfer tube had swelled or just mashed so flat over the years, It was obstructing the space around the emulsion tubes nearly blocking them. ALSO, the the gasket under the black thing behind the throttle plates, the old gasket was partly obstructing flow.
Tried looking for 75 Vito’s 1x2.5 @ McMaster Carr - They definitely have o-rings- metric & inch - lots of O-rings, all sizes. But couldn’t match the 75 Viton 1x2.5 to their inventory and specifications for chemical resistance etc. Guess there’s quite a bit to know (that I don’t know) about o-rings.
Great video thank you!
Thanks for the info I really appreciate it very much
Thank you, very helpful video
Very Welcome glad to have helped....
Did he say settlenoid? Lol I love the video content though helping me with my restoration job of a mower that has sat for 10-15 years
FYI, it is not an after fire Cetaloid. It is a after fire Solenoid (SOW-Lun-oid). Actually a fuel shut off solenoid. Many people pronounce it
sel-en-oid. But only one person calls it a CET- ah-loid. There is not T in solenoid. Thanks for the video. Good stuff. Oh, and the O-ring is "vuh-TON". I sold parts for almost 20 years and has to research Viton because I was clueless.
Jeffery....so nice 👍 to be corrected on my Grammer...thank you .....your even better than spell checker.....one quick ❓......why is such a profound intellectual such as your self feeling compelled to view my video when my ideolect is or was indicative of my lower comprehension skill....Geee......guess I should be greatful you graced me with your devine presence and Superior pronunciation capabilities.....I am guessing your 20 years of selling parts diminished your social interaction skills....lol..one more thing FYI....Anti afterfire solenoid is the proper way you pronounce....your coined so called fuel shut off solenoid .....Seriously 😳.....uhhhhhhhh......look it up in any Briggs service repair manual..... 🤣....but hey don't take my word for it they just made me a Master Service Technician for the hell of it....(experience).....nah...
Shit that's just a formality.....
Persistence.......and dedicated results that the 🗝️ to success....passing asinine commentary......certainly makes for intelligent individuals 😁 a chance to stand out among the common folk. Subscribers love a individual with a superiority complex trolling there every word ....Keep up the good work... you'll be on your way to 3...... possibly even four subscribers to entertain your comedic justification.
About to attempt this on my 1999 Briggs Vtwin 46in rider I got for $50. Just “fixed” one of the exhaust valve guides and about to get cylinder put back on. Next repair phase is going through the carb which I am hoping is this older version like yours:-)
there is an oring that goes on the jet housing on my mower mine is white your vid is very helpful
Thanks again Kevin!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Your very welcome / GLAD TO HELP anytime .......
Thanks for the video and explanation, Kevin. I also have this older style and when I bought the rebuild kit, I could only find kits for the new model.
Do you have any tips for the o-ring that goes on the brass nut/jet in the bottom of the bowl and the fuel transfer tube slides over? The o-rings that come with the kits for the newer model are much too large and I went to all the parts shops, mower shop, and our "has everything" specialty hardware store but no one had an o-ring that would fit.
Do you have a McMaster-Carr part number for the Viton 1 x 2.5 o-rings ?
Fishing line works in cleaning those pin holes
thank you for the great video very helpful and well put together. I have a question is there any way to tell left jet from right, mine were in the bowl
Yes /although this can be a challenge in its self as often the jets etched number will have been affected do to the vibration of gasoline in the float bowl ......The best way I know how to describe this effect on the etched numbers is {think of a ultra sonic cleaner for jewelry } pro longed exposure to the vibration of normal sediments that often just accumulate in modern gasolines will just eventually buff off the lightly etched numbers.. A small drill index works great with the aid of Parts tree .com website { By even calling the company they can often tell you the numbers of the jets and where to place them in the transfer tube.} Although what I personally do is look at the intake manifold .....You will notice that with it facing you in the direction it would go on there is a right and left side ...often is the case that the bigger jet gos to cylinder 2 or to the right....but keep in mind that these jets are so close in size that it is often a pain in the butt just to try to identify one from the other when there are no etched numbers visible to be read ...{ So I recommend contacting Central power distributors or the helpful folks at Parts tree .com} ......Note that on some engines on Parts tree.com they even offer the numbers of the jets to be purchased and indicate the left or right .....Sadly this isn't much help if you intend on reusing the old jets as the etched numbers quite often have faded or became distorted ... But personally If I were you and have access to a small drill index I would just insert the bigger of the two jets into the transfer tube on the right.
Thanks Kevin
I'm another one that can't find the o-rings for the jets on McMaster-Carr. O-rings have 3 dimensions, Width, I.D and O.D. the label and your post only gives two of the three. Assume the 75 is the durameter rating and Viton is the material, just need the 3rd dimension and I can pick it from the catalog. But obviously the Part Number would be the most assured way of getting the right o-ring.
i think its called the fuel transfur block the fuel shut off goes on that part
I have Nikki carburetor on 26 hp vanguard do you know if the 2 jets in transfer tube are the same and looking at my plugs looks like running lean is there a way to adjust these carbs?
My main jets fell out because the o-rings were rotten. Which one goes in left and which one is goes on the right? The inside diameter is slightly different on each one. I have the newer kind of fuel transfer white colored tube.
Just finished my first carb clean on a VTwin professional. Every video I've seen that's gone into enough detail on the new jets mentions that the left and right are different sizes--however, my two are exactly the same and looking at the parts manual, Brigs has a standard and a high alt, but not a left/right. Instead they say "Use for Left OR Right jets".
Did they move to using the same size jets, does anyone know?
Hello Kevin! Thank you for your time and knowledge. I have this exact older style carb. that you are showing. Im lookin for the o ring that is on the main jet retainer. I bought a cheap Amazon rebuild kit that didnt have that o ring included. Any idea of the part number for that o ring? Thank you for your time, Mike
Mike...I would check mc.mastercarr...
They offer a large selection of o rings. Sadly I have know idea what the actual size of the o ring is you need..... alternatively you can likely find the OEM kit on partstree.com.
I purchased those orings they were too big. I had to drill a bigger hole to have them insert properly.
What is the part number for the viton o rings from McMaster car?
Ahhh. Those valve guides can be tapped back in and staked. the emulsion tube oring can be gotten by Briggs but Kawasaki offers those main jet o rings also. Crazy to buy new jets for 2 little o-rings.
I do agree that the o rings can be purchased via different alternatives and companies . But penning the valve guides is a foolish waste of time ,effort ,and money .....If they move once ....they can and will move again .......trust me viewers if you have a head that the valve guides have moved in you basicly have two options that are viable .......Simply purchase a new head or find a good used head ..........I personally would opt for the new head if the equipment dosent have substantial age or hours .
Adam Dorris by providing this opinion please don't take it personal .......You penning of a valve guide is effective .....And I personally have done it as well but its often just a patch job at best simply because of the expansion rate range of alum used in the heads . Peening only puts pressure on the valve guide at the top and bottom of the valve guide . Heat will expand the alum and oil will carbonize due to heat allowing the valve guide to move once again as the guides are pressure fitted in the heads from new .
Follow the money, they can not make money if you fix the problem yourself, they want you to buy a new part.
seria possivel uma tradução pois tem varios colegas que desejam assistir e entender o video
What was the part number for ordering or size of the O RING on the Retainer--Solenoid at the 1:25 mark in the video? Mine is like this and the O RING needs to be replaced. Does anyone know?
Thanks great video !!! I’m having trouble with the o-ring that is in the bottom of the fuel bowl... I think someone has put the wrong one back in mine... it’s green do they come green
Not that I have seen.....
On mine the o-rings were eaten away after a few years, leading to the jets falling out of the riser tube and several other o-rings becoming useless. There is a carb rebuild kit you can get on eBay for less than $10 that will have all the gaskets and o-rings, but like Kevin said, it doesn't include the jets or the o-rings for the jets. I can attest, without the new o-rings around the jets, it will only get worse and they will continue to fall out and cause the engine to stall. So you have to order new jets with the rebuild kit or new o-rings for the jets, or the rebuild/cleaning will all be for naught.
Question: ....... I have a 20hp B&S Intek V=twin but the choke does not seem to do anything, it runs well the cable and choke plate are moving to close position, but the choke seems to do nothing to the RPM..... Is this normal? Ever other lawn mower the choke will cause the engine to stall or run rough after its warm but not this one.
Your video on the vtwin. I have the exact carb. How can I get all the part . Or is there a upgrade
The two main jets are different for right and left. Don’t switch them!
Our 22 hp Briggs will only run with choke on - of course meaning carb isn't getting fuel, do you think the jets could have fallen out or just a good cleaning would fix it? I was wondering if choke on was a sign of jets falling out or if that would cause it to get too much fuel. I just wanted your expert opinion of where to start. Very good video thank you for sharing your expertise with us.
Its likely a passage restriction like I have shown how to clean in my video....However jets can be distorted and allow the carb to have to be in a partially closed state to provide the engine to run as it currently is. Thorough cleaning is highly recommended.
On mine, when the jets fell out, the engine would not run or start no matter what I tried. So its a good bet Kevin is right, its likely clogging somewhere else in the carb cause at least in my case, once the jets fall out, the engine won't start or run no matter what you do.
Mine has become very hard to start. Lean condition on one side, rich on the other. I suspect valve adjustment. I cleaned the carburetor and no change. Once I shoot fuel into a cylinder , it fires up and runs fine. The engine does not crank over hard or back fire.
Look at your valve adjustment, check the guides and be sure you don't have a bent pushrod. All of these things could lead to a lean cylinder.
By the way, the two jets are different sizes. Maybe yours are reversed. That would lead to one cylinder being too rich and the other too lean.
I have the later carb on a JD G110 and I discovered the plastic manifold was warped on the throttle facing surface. I use some silicone to seal it. Also found the port facing sides warped and clear signs the O rings had been leaking. No wonder I had to keep it nearly full choked just to start and stay running. I sealed with a little bit of silicone.
you got the good carb... me too 😁
I don't see a link for the O rings.... I am having a lil trouble on their web site... Can you give me a link ??
Thanks
Thanks....... Did you try them on a jet yet ?? I got some from a friend and I think they were 2.5 and they were a little tight to get the jet back in the hole....
I'm trying to find out which jet goes to which side. Mine fell out at same time and now i don't know which side each jet goes to. Both have different size ports. Thanks
David Dixon yeah, same thing here for me.
did you ever find out which one goes where?
I've got 1.1 and 1.4
I have the same problem. Despite trying not to let them fall out, they did and now I don't know which is which. It took a magnifying glass to see the numbers on them. One is marked 116 and the other 113. Plus there is a place on the carb body with a L and R. EDIT: according to a picture I enlarged from a B&S carb rebuild site, Jet 113 is on the L side and 116 on the R side. FWTW. Also, since they won't stay in place, I must assume the O rings on them are bad. So most likely I'll be ordering some from McMasterCarr soon.
The smaller jet goes on the left side, you have to get a magnifying glass to read the numbers stamped into the base of the jets.
Any gasket parts kits out there.
I bought a kit cleaned it out put new jet in new float now it acts like it's not getting gas it runs if I pour gas into carb but won't start on its own
what would be the symptoms of a bad valve guide compared to a bad carb
Loud popping and flash flaming with back firing threw the carb .
what is the oring size for the fuel shut off thank you
I am a bit confused about the question so please forgive me....I think your asking about the tip end of a After fire solenoid that screws into the bottom of the carb .....If so its not a o ring that gos on the end but a molded piece of rubber that is slightly smaller than a eraser in appearance ....When they become affected they often will pull out of a small circler grove that can be seen at the end of a after fire solenoid. I really don't think the ends can be bought without purchasing a whole new after fire solenoid . IF you do find it to be the case and are able to purchase the plunger end of the after fire solenoid please provide a part number for me. It would be a great piece of info I could use to repair about six I have hear at home.
Can you give us a part number for the O-rings. Or tell us what the 1 X 2.5 is. Inside diameter? Thickness? Outside diameter. More info please.
Ok / I order theses o rings from Mc Master Carr ….They are 75 viton ….The size is 1x2.5 ...Qty is 25 per package ….Bar code numbers read as such 1A 18011614144435 /CAA086 . When I wish to purchase more typically I provide this info via phone and within 3 days will receive my order .
The 1 X 2.5 o-rings are too thick for the late model jets. They will not fit!
Warning: There is a danger in the B&S V-Twin fueling systems. Gas tank above the carburetor, leaky shut off and float valve, probably from rubber 1/4" hoses under mowing conditions trash in fuel won't let fuel be shut off. In two-three days over a gallon of gas run thru intake valves & rings into crankcase. Cranked hard due to hydraulic lock, explosion can result. Beware, I add a fuel cutoff valve to fuel line and shut it off every time I use my mower. I have also added a fuel filter below the fuel pump with new line to carburetor, to catch trash. After this experience, no more chances with Intek twin.
Mine is a 28 hp v twin commercial Briggs was mowing it died like you shut the key off its getting gas to the carb but not getting gas in the carburetor will start with starting fluid
You likely have one of the passages internal to the carb clogged as a result of just basic tarnishing of old fuel . Clean the carb …..Then make sure your jets are secure into the pickup or transfer tube .
I bought the Viton 1x2.5 o-rings and they were too fat. They went on the jets without a problem, but I couldn't get the jet to seat into the emusion tube (I oiled the jets). When I pushed hard, the o-rings were damaged and the jet never seated completely into place. I even beveled the opening to make it easier for the o-right to slide into place. My Nikki carb is from a 2012 23 hp briggs engine model number 445577 type 2187G5 Code 120917XG.
So Kevin - do you have any suggestions ??
thanks
Lightly apply grease to both the openings and the jets .....use a vice to insure your jets are being pressed evenly into there respective openings . You can often use a small Allen key or short socket like a 3 mm to help aid in the task . Just be careful when applying pressure with the vice .
@@kevinbolin7665 The 1 X 2.5 o-rings are too thick and never use a vise to insert them, everything is plastic and you will surely crack the plastic housing! Use only Briggs and Stratton parts!
I got a major problem I cleaned my carburetor which I have cleaned many lawn mower ATV carburetors in my lifetime and I blew those two little Jets out with air not realizing they were pressed in now I'm finding out they are two different ones I was told one for the left one for the right I actually believe it or not found them and put them in but I don't know if they're right or if they have the o-rings any suggestions??
This is indeed a very difficult task your faced with .....hopefully the numbers are still visible ....parts tree .com can be helpful in finding witch jet went where .......Also Mc Master Carr sells the o rings just simply order 75 viton {size 1x2.5} and typically they come 25 to the package .
@@kevinbolin7665 that sounds like a plan I know after cleaning it it didn't run any different than it did before it still runs like crap at an idle it's fine at full throttle mowing but not at an idle popping and cracking valves are adjusted perfect didn't have to touch them so it's got to be the carburetor
That carburetor is just like the one on my 19hp intek but I cant find a rebuild kit for it only for 20hp and up
Partstree.com should help you / All you need is model ,type,and code .
You can provide me the model ,type ,and code and I will help you as well if you don't find the info from Partstree.com.
@@kevinbolin7665 thank you very much huge help
To bad you didn't hold it so we could see the plug passages and not just you. Great video anyway.
Thanks/ I did try but it just didn't show up the way I had hoped it would ...
Great vedio,,,,,,could u please send me the link,,,,,,where i can get those O rings,,,,I went to the site ,,,,but i couldnt find them,,,,,Thanks
Mcmaster carr part number{ 9263k546 } multi purpose .....also part number{ 1185n21} will work if you prefer colored o rings. I prefer these o rings because they seem to hold up better than the ones Briggs use . fit much tighter and gas dosent seem to affect them as bad. The first part number I provided cost about $3.38 and the second cost $5.27 .....so very affordable... If you have any trouble the size is 1mm x 2.5 mm viton and they come 25 in a pack
We
n Bolin 0
@@kevinbolin7665 McMaster-Carr recommends Part # 1295N113 instead of 9263k546.
The difference is 50 instead of 25. $4.30 v $5.98. # 1185N21 is a brown viton. 25 for $6.33? More for less!! As for durability, Buna-N is probably what Briggs is using as it is 1/4 the price. From older comments, it seems the o-rings on the new jets are smaller. If the cross section is still 1 mm, there are 1.5 x 3.5 and 2 x 4 MM ID/OD part #s 1295N111 and N112 respectively. The brown vitons are once again more money for less quantity.
Mine went into hyper drive (throttle wise) and the Internal Governor is fine.
Well if that be the case ....Check the carbs throttle {butterfly} plate shutter as the screws likely have came out causing it to remain wide open ...because the only way a engine will run wide open under normal failure is improper governor adjustment .....broken governor ......or carb failures such as butterflys sticking or in rare cases the jets having a issue .
@@kevinbolin7665 nope they were fine. It appears the Intake O-ring gaskets developed a leak causing a severe leaning out of the fuel being delivered. Checked the intake manifold for leaks/cracks seeing as it is plastic, didn't find any. I just thoroughly went throughre and re-built the Nikki carb, (I am fond of those Nikki's) making dang sure it is in 100% working condition.....I'm waiting on parts to close her back up.....KEVIN Thanks for the response!!!!
Yes word butterfly threw me off. The choke is a butterfly too! so my bad.
Quite alright....easily done.....glad you liked the video
mine is refusing to run without pouring gas in intake where to start
You could check you choke linkage ......but to be honest this problem is often due to a clogged passage or jet in the carb....I will run but only if it receives a little help from carb cleaner, gasoline ,starting fluid ...ETC....you may need to purchase a carb kit..
What is the after fire solinoid do thanks
It prevents gas from entering the carbs jet or jets once it is shut off / also prevents gas building up and blowing off a muffler .....Although sometimes you may still have unburned gas react {ignite} in a muffler once the engine has been shut down........In truth its a way for a lawyer to make a dollar ......But the obligated answer I am required to say should be ......{safety}
I think I read it in the O.M., its a safety feature. With the blades engaged, the seat switch tripping for no weight on the seat, will cause the solenoid to close and cut off fuel killing the engine. The idea is if you tip the mower over and thus fall off the seat with the blades engaged, it will kill the engine as quickly as possible. A simple engine like this, when hot can continue to run even if you cut the ignition, most assured way to make sure it stops running is to cut off the fuel. But it also closes anytime you shut off the motor, for all the reasons Kevin mentioned.
i have this same carburetor, my mower keeps surging when engage the blades, any tips?
Yes purchase a carb over haul kit ...and clean the carb...
Kevin Bolin appreciate thw response! i will try that
would you happen to know the o-ring seal size for that solenoid retainer?
I really cant say that I do ....It should come with the carb kit...
Really nice looking at your' hand. Don't you think it's better to move your' hand than apologizing! :O)
And miss out on such asinine commentary like this ?......NEVER......
Toolman if every action I displayed was carefully executed then I would likely only be committed to the perfection of my video and not the premise witch would defeat any reasoning by intent .
@@kevinbolin7665 Ya I'm the ass. Right?
@@CorbinAce SEE.....{fellow viewers}.....I knew {toolman }wouldnt miss out on my perspective .......Very attentive and perceptive individual .....{I will give you that toolman } Might I ask wheres your content upon your channel as I see your accustom to holding others to asinine standards yet never advocate by example .....You Know I could be wrong but providing content of any kind would likely gather liked minded individuals to your channel ......and maybe then .......Well .....you might find less time to be critical ......Just saying .....5 Subs dosent make you seem validated by casting sarcastic remarks .
@@kevinbolin7665 What the hell are you talking about?
Suggestion. #1 Please run through your video just one more time.
It seems the name calling are all on your side. The Sarcasm is all on your side.
Again viewing your' Wrist was very helpful.
Dude: try not to be so sensitive. We all make mistakes. Most learn from them!!!
Can you help me find a repair kit for my grandfather's engine? We've searched high and low and can't find anything. These are the numbers we got off of the engine.
YBSXS.7242VF
274844
He can't find the carb number so these are the only numbers we have. Hope you can be of some help, as we are very desperate. Thanks so much and great video
captainslowking wrong numbers
captainslowking briggs engine u need to look on the valve covers one will be stamped on top . U need the model and code
xxxxxx-xxxx-xx
Model - code
Great video.I have this same carb.Mine keeps flooding into the cylinders and crankcase.I have replaced the float needle (float was ok) and it continues to flood.Any ideas? Thnaks
I have seen this only a few times/ on these carbs a great way to clean the inlet needle valve seat is by taking a small amount of lapping compound found at most auto motive stores {fine }not course and gently buff the seat with it on a small Q.Tip used to clean out ears . Note a great way to provide a mirror like finish would be to dilute the lapping compound with Go/Jo hand cleaner also found in most automotive stores.....Just make sure you spray out the seat once you have buffed it .
I appreciate you taking the time to reply.Thanks for tip I will give it a try.I assume the seat is not replaceable on these and if lapping doesn't work a new carb is needed?
You are correct/You in honesty have about a 50 /50 chance .....You could place a in line fuel shut off valve but in truth the small diaphragm fuel pump should help assist the carb in retaining fuel flow intel the engine is turned over by cranking or starting.
Thanks Kevin.Gonna give it a try this weekend.Found a new carb on ebay for $50 and will probably keep this one for parts.Can't complain much,Tractor has been trouble free for 16 tough use years.
Best of luck ...Hope it works out for you ...If I can help in any way I am only a reply away.
Jets have fallen out of my Briggs carb will that keep mower from starting and also having trouble finding new jets for my carb model # is 795969. Can you help me?
Yes def will keep it from starting/ I would like to help.....Please provide me the model ...Type ...and code of your engine....They are typically found on the valve covers and blower housings..{795969} wasn't providing many results..
Got your text about the numbers you need from me. First thank you for your assistance, I am just learning about these carburetors and small engines. The (Model #44M777)
(Type #1193 B1)
(Code#090316YG)
Yes part number 842627 is for the right and part number 792296 is for the left...
Glad to help ...
i have that older carb and can not find a replacement carb
No problem just replace it with the newer carb / they mount the same way and you truly in most cases get better performance from the engine. { if your model used a restrictor plate just remove it }
was thinking that but will the fuel shut off still go together for i have that black cont and i see new carbs have the white
Yes / the anti afterfire solenoid for the carb should be the same . its connection should be exactly the same ..
thank you
Glad to have helped....
You need to use better lighting.
Throttle shaft not choke shaft
No...sorry..it is a choke shaft ....but I can understand the confusion ...{easily done}...look carefully at the carb ..the carb throttle shaft is to the rear ....look carefully and you will see the idle set screw to the left ..
Should clean all carb cleaner off all plastic parts can rot part and where gloves with carb cleaner
1/2 of your video is 1/2 on screen and 1/2 off screen
True......wasn't intended ….But it just happened to be that way …...Still it can be very imformative.
Watch this and just buys a whole carburetor complete.
What?
@@kevinbolin7665 I bought a whole new carburetor and was in and out in less than an hour. If I got to pull a carburetor off might as well just replace the whole damn thing.
@@jamesm568 In most cases I would agree ….But these carbs are expensive ….And repair kits are around 56 to 70 dollars tops …...The oem carbs range about 135 dollars …..But the aftermarket cost typically 40 dollars …..But be warned the aftermarket carbs aluminum is terrible for oxidizing .
@@kevinbolin7665 When it comes to Briggs & Stratton I only buy OEM parts.
@@jamesm568some of the current cheap aftermarket carbs are pretty good these days. Saved me a couple of times with discontinued parts issues
Whats up with everyone saying sillynoid?