Dude , ya just saved me a bunch of anguish trying to figure out my exact same carb on a twenty four horse Intek twin . Machine is new to me , and I am getting it ready to sell . I tracked the erratic running behavior down to the carburetor . Seeing your video showed me just how bad mine was buggered up when someone , before me , didn't properly fit the Dime sized O-ring [ or it got disoriented when the float chamber bowl was previously attached to body of carb. ] that seals the two white plastic emulsion tube housing pieces , the short one housing the A/B solenoid seat , and the long one that runs through the donut hole of the float . Now all I need is match a new O-ring (that I have tons of) up to it and hopefully after a good cleaning she'll be making good carburateing noises once again in proper fashion as it should . You are a true gentleman and a tribute to excellence . I'll sleep well tonight ... er , well - this morning . LoL Been researching for way before 9 pm. and it's almost 5 am , as i write you . I couldn't find this bottom load solenoid carb like mine for the life , much less a beautifully put together video breakdown till I stumbled into yours' Thanks very much ; . Dave
Today I just completed a "partial" rebuild of the Nikki V-Twin Carb. The rubber gasket "O" Ring in the fuel bowl had become swollen and the engine was puffing out black smoke and drowning in fuel so that O-Ring needed replacement. While I was at it I replaced some intake gaskets too. I didn't completely disassemble it because it was as clean as the day it was born. One note about the "jets" : They indeed did fall out but I personally didn't see any difference in size under a loupe and my Husqvarna is now running so I guess I got them in correctly. Your video was a good reference "just to make sure". Thanks for posting. BTW, $15 in parts and and some sweat equity saved me around $200+. Keep it DIY!
Was asked to look at this engine for a friend. Had nt worked on that model before, so this was a very helpful and well shot tutorial. Well done and thank you !
I thoroughly enjoyed your videos!! The most comprehensive I've seen in a long time. I had taken an exact carburetor apart and did not know that those two orifices inside the bowl were different untill I watched you describe left and right cylinder orientation. Thank you!
Thanks for the great video. One of the very few reasons I continue to support TH-cam is for straight forward education by fellow travelers that have more time than money, and just need to see it done correctly once. Great job.
I have an older version that needs attention. Thanks for the many good tips! I may now have the courage to open up the V18 that is on my vintage Dynamark.
Nice video very informative. I have a similar problem with my mower, now I have some better ideas of things to check. Thanks for taking the time to share with others.
Your pacing , content and thoughtful presentation was excellent with my coffee. I'll be reverse engineering my carb shortly. So appreciate the help. Thank you so much.
This was VERY helpful to me and my wife. Also (regarding your summary comments) your final situation fell right in line with our everyday motto: If it's not one thing, it's two others! Thanks again for your insight.
Thank you for posting This video, it was very helpful in troubleshooting the issues with my more motor valve lash was the problem when I thought it was a carburetor issue .
Hi Terry! For another video that does the same kind of deep dive, Chickanick here on TH-cam did one that adds some more detail. She talks about how the seal kits from Amazon are often missing the correct tiny O rings that hold the jets in place. She said that you don't need to remove or replace those O rings if the jets don't fall out. I left those in .
@@spelunkerdThanks Dave for the added info! I did see her video and it was informative too. It turns out that a Briggs and Stratton rebuild kit from Amazon is $95 and some change. Unbelievable when it’s mostly gaskets. She decided to buy the complete carburetor from Amazon for $40 whereas the one from John Deere is $240. I hope the cheap carburetor will work. Have a great evening.
your mellow voice just talked me into attempting the carb dissassembly because my d130 v-twin is sputtering and stalling and I think its loaded up in need of a cleaning. watched video several times think I have it memorized now LOL
One my Intek the problem was a worn float needle on a fairly new engine. The needle was a cheap plastic thing. You need to check that the float needle is working and not leaking or it will run badly. The replacement was not cheap. Thanks for a clear, concise informative video.
Great Tutorial. There is a breather tube for the crankcase that connects to the inlet duct from the air cleaner. Not hard to imagine a dirty carb might create conditions that would suck some oil in from the breather tube to create blue smoke. This happens in car engines if you overfill the oil or have a bad PCV valve. As well, excessively rich mixture or perhaps dirt dissolve in fuel from the dirty carb, can create an excessive dense gray smoke that looks blue.
I watched so many videos and finally you answered my question. Jet 111 is LEFT, and jet 114 is RIGHT. Mine both fell out during disassembly because their O rings were completely deterioriated. Thanks for the video and solving the puzzle. Cheers
I'm glad it helped. There is nothing in the service manual describing this, and I can't guarantee it is correct since I'm the second owner. Mine continues to work fine and I've had very little done to it since this video was published years ago.
@@spelunkerd UPDATE- I just watched another video where the guy stated that he actually talked to a Briggs rep and they said the lean jet (smaller number) goes on the right. Frankly, I dont see where it would make a difference. Apparently B&S installed a lean jet for emissions sake. So one cylinder will always run lean, or you could say one cylinder will always run richer, with everything else being equal. Cheers
I have been fixing my recently purchase L120 also. It was bending valve rods due to a loose valve guide in the left cylinder. After fixing that the right cylinder was not running right. I got the carb all cleaned up and put back together. I had a dirty float bowl, and a clogged pick-up, and a bad o'ring. Lots and lots of things to look into on these older 2nd hand mowers.
I can honestly say that was the most well done diy video Ive ever watched. How you explained every detail was excellent. You definitely have a nack for teaching. Thank you I learned alot.
My 22 horse husqvarna riding mower was spitting and backfiring on full throttle. Had low power. Sounded like it was running on one cylinder. After changing the plugs and fuel filter, still no fix. Tested both coils, both checked good. This video was excellent in detail of how to thoroughly clean the carburetor. After disassembling the carburetor I found the problem was the one of the jets was completely blocked with a tan jelly like substance that I call ETHANOL. The manufacturers sticker on the fuel tank approves up to 10% ethanol gasoline. THAT'S BULLS**T!!!! Folks stay away from ethanol gasoline in small engine carburetors. Great video with no BS!!!👍👍👍
I thought I understood the ethanol debate, but on discovering that alcohols are an integral part of fuel stabilizer I realized the situation is much more complex. Here on the west coast I routinely use midgrade fuel for farm equipment, which does not have ethanol. However when I store my vehicles over winter I put in, yup, fuel stabilizer! After the last use in the fall I try to shut off fuel to the carb while engine is running, to let the vehicle die of fuel starvation so the carb is empty during the winter. Mostly I store tanks full to prevent condensation of water inside the tank and to reduce progression of internal rust. Even so, we can all expect to have to clean carbs intermittently. Thanks for stopping by!
I really like your attention to detail, engines are like a fine watch; everything has to be just so in order to perform as desired. I enjoyed your video and you helped me. Thank you.
Amazing video and tutorial, I can't imagine how long it took you to shoot and edit! BTW - this is exactly the problem I am having and you helped me fix the problem.
Thanks for detailed tutorial.. Since I have a 12 year old lawn tractor I've never had a carb issue with I'm skeptical my new JD mower with less than 100 hrs of use could have a dirty carb. But it's almost always cited as the most common cause of surging. Ill try the easy fixes first and if no luck I'll tear the carb apart.
Tried the easy fixes and lo and behold they have seemed to work. Plugs were very fouled so I cleaned them. Replaced the fuel filter (didn't seem to be dirty), and checked the fuel pump flow. Cleaned the air cleaner. The mower still surged and ran rough with smoke coming from exhaust. Still hoping to avoid a carb teardown I decided to try some seafoam in the gas tank. After running about 15 seconds the engine smoothed out and ran like new. I doubt the seafoam had enough time to work its way to the carb so I'm guessing there was some unburned fuel remaining in the cylinders from it running rich and once that burned out the surging and roughness cleared up. I have no idea what caused the initial rich mixture and fouled plugs. I'm just glad I didn't have to tear the carb apart. I did buy some micro bits, etc so ill have them on hand if it ever comes to that.
Great video! Another way to clean jets out, or at least help loosen the dirt, is to use guitar string. It works great and if you don't have any around the house just go to local music store and pick up a set of cheap strings for a few dollars. They may even have some extra scrap strings laying around that they may give to you.
I agree with many of the commenters that this is a well made video, however you skipped a crucial part. Underneath the main jet housing (technically "above" when the carb is oriented upright) there is a gasket with 4 O-rings. Those are ALL Jet holes. There are 4 Jets on this carburetor and the ones you didn't show in this video are usually the ones that cause so many people problems with surging and "only on choke" issues. The 2 jets in the main jet housing are in the plastic housing as you showed, the other 2 are in the other 2 holes in the carburetor casting. You'll need a flashlight to see them and then to insure they are cleared out as they tend to clog easily. You should be able to flash a light from the top of the carb, through the holes and the jets, and see light from the bottom. A sewing needle is too big to fit through the idle jet holes but it will unblock them at which point I use a wire brush bristle clamped in needle nosed vice-grips to probe the holes completely. for particularly corroded idle jets, you can use a smaller drill bit than the holes and massage the Jet hole with the flutes on the drill bit to insure proper hole sizes. In no way am i contesting the info in this video, just adding my knowledge to it. I hope it helps.
Good points, I wondered about the possibility of further orifices deeper in the housing. I flushed it out well, and I did flush all the orifices I could find, including under the four hole gasket, but I'm not at all surprised there are further channels deeper in the housing. From what I hear you saying, there is nothing more to disassemble, just carefully look for more orifices and clean them all as best as possible. Anything more to add?
@@spelunkerd nope, that's really all i was saying. so to be clear, in the plastic housing theres 2 jets (Main Jets) for the atomizer stems and the other 2 holes next to the stems in the Carb housing contain 2 more jets (Idler Jets) to be cleared. Total of 4 brass jets. Thanks for the video Good luck with your projects everyone.
I have blue smoke and suspected it's a head gasket from my reading. I will try your method first to clean the carburetor but I will check the compression and tweak the valve gap. The PSI is 90 lbs before tweaking the valve gap.
Great job on this video. The detail in the presentation and the production quality were excellent. Thanks for sharing. My mower has the intek v-twin which, I assume, uses this same carburetor. All I need now is the nerve to take on the job. One thing I wondered about was whether you replaced any of the parts. I can only assume that you didn't.
Thanks again Mr Henry. As ever, all of your videos are excellent. Would you have a reference to the free download to a dealer repair manual please? Thanks again.
This is fantastic. Clear and concise youtube "how to's" are a rarity in a sea of garbage. Thank you for taking your time to put out a quality product.
I'm going to play this music next time I work on my carburetor 😁
That was honestly one of the best DIY tutorials I’ve seen on this carburetor 😎
Dude , ya just saved me a bunch of anguish trying to figure out my exact same carb on a twenty four horse Intek twin . Machine is new to me , and I am getting it ready to sell . I tracked the erratic running behavior down to the carburetor .
Seeing your video showed me just how bad mine was buggered up when someone , before me , didn't properly fit the Dime sized O-ring [ or it got disoriented when the float chamber bowl was previously attached to body of carb. ] that seals the two white plastic emulsion tube housing pieces , the short one housing the A/B solenoid seat , and the long one that runs through the donut hole of the float . Now all I need is match a new O-ring (that I have tons of) up to it and hopefully after a good cleaning she'll be making good carburateing noises once again in proper fashion as it should .
You are a true gentleman and a tribute to excellence . I'll sleep well tonight ... er , well - this morning . LoL Been researching for way before 9 pm. and it's almost 5 am , as i write you . I couldn't find this bottom load solenoid carb like mine for the life , much less a beautifully put together video breakdown till I stumbled into yours'
Thanks very much ;
. Dave
Thank you very much for a great video.I am 85, which proves you are never to old. To learn. Thanks again &God Bless.
I have this same carb apart and cleaned on my bench I learned a few things I should check before reassembly tomorrow! Thanks for this video!
you just saved me a bunch of heartache, thank you sir, well done.
Today I just completed a "partial" rebuild of the Nikki V-Twin Carb. The rubber gasket "O" Ring in the fuel bowl had become swollen and the engine was puffing out black smoke and drowning in fuel so that O-Ring needed replacement. While I was at it I replaced some intake gaskets too. I didn't completely disassemble it because it was as clean as the day it was born. One note about the "jets" : They indeed did fall out but I personally didn't see any difference in size under a loupe and my Husqvarna is now running so I guess I got them in correctly. Your video was a good reference "just to make sure". Thanks for posting. BTW, $15 in parts and and some sweat equity saved me around $200+. Keep it DIY!
Your tenor and tone made listening very easy.
Full of the right info in a calm easy to watch presentation. You sound like such a great Canadian.
Was asked to look at this engine for a friend. Had nt worked on that model before, so this was a very helpful and well shot tutorial. Well done and thank you !
I like how you use dissolves rather than jump cuts
You saved me with those brass jet inserts, thanks for the walkthrough!
I thoroughly enjoyed your videos!! The most comprehensive I've seen in a long time. I had taken an exact carburetor apart and did not know that those two orifices inside the bowl were different untill I watched you describe left and right cylinder orientation. Thank you!
Thanks for the great video. One of the very few reasons I continue to support TH-cam is for straight forward education by fellow travelers that have more time than money, and just need to see it done correctly once. Great job.
I have an older version that needs attention. Thanks for the many good tips! I may now have the courage to open up the V18 that is on my vintage Dynamark.
Looking forward to using your video as a walkthrough tomorrow. Best instructional video I've seen yet.
Exceptionally professional video sir! Very well done! Im tearing into the same carb tomorrow.
Thank you! This helped so much. My jets fell out and I wasn't sure what side was what.
Nice video very informative. I have a similar problem with my mower, now I have some better ideas of things to check. Thanks for taking the time to share with others.
Your pacing , content and thoughtful presentation was excellent with my coffee. I'll be reverse engineering my carb shortly. So appreciate the help. Thank you so much.
This was VERY helpful to me and my wife. Also (regarding your summary comments) your final situation fell right in line with our everyday motto: If it's not one thing, it's two others! Thanks again for your insight.
Great video, excellent content, pace and substance.
This video was pure gold for me. Thank you.
A fine and perfectly detailed video sir thanks for helping us out. I'm tackling mine soon now..Thanks to you..
Thank you my friend...
AWESOME , Glad you got it it fixed .. ! ENJOYED..
Great step by step video! Thank you! 💪🏼
Excellent, clear very useful. Gives me courage to dive in!
Thanks for the video. And the tip about the linkage rod. Gonna be tackling mine.
Thank you for posting This video, it was very helpful in troubleshooting the issues with my more motor valve lash was the problem when I thought it was a carburetor issue .
Great video Dave! Looks like I'm going to have to rebuild this same carburetor on my sister's John Deere 190C. Have a great day!
Hi Terry! For another video that does the same kind of deep dive, Chickanick here on TH-cam did one that adds some more detail. She talks about how the seal kits from Amazon are often missing the correct tiny O rings that hold the jets in place. She said that you don't need to remove or replace those O rings if the jets don't fall out. I left those in .
@@spelunkerdThanks Dave for the added info! I did see her video and it was informative too. It turns out that a Briggs and Stratton rebuild kit from Amazon is $95 and some change. Unbelievable when it’s mostly gaskets. She decided to buy the complete carburetor from Amazon for $40 whereas the one from John Deere is $240. I hope the cheap carburetor will work. Have a great evening.
Well presented and comprehensive clear instruction. Thank you sir.
Great Video, working on an Allis Chalmers Rider with the 23 HP Intek and NIKKI, Very Informative.
Good two part video! And a fun project.
Excellent video! Thank you for this!
your mellow voice just talked me into attempting the carb dissassembly because my d130 v-twin is sputtering and stalling and I think its loaded up in need of a cleaning. watched video several times think I have it memorized now LOL
One my Intek the problem was a worn float needle on a fairly new engine. The needle was a cheap plastic thing. You need to check that the float needle is working and not leaking or it will run badly. The replacement was not cheap. Thanks for a clear, concise informative video.
Thank you for the excellent Tutorial. Great details and explanations. 👍
One and Two were both great videos , very informative 👍
Thank you nice job explaining what everything does, might have had some trash in the carb but there wasn't any in the vid like a lot of them have.
I’ve got that white/grey smoke problem. Thanks for the tip on the dirty carb & video.
You did a great job with this video,very helpful.....thank you!
Great Tutorial. There is a breather tube for the crankcase that connects to the inlet duct from the air cleaner. Not hard to imagine a dirty carb might create conditions that would suck some oil in from the breather tube to create blue smoke. This happens in car engines if you overfill the oil or have a bad PCV valve. As well, excessively rich mixture or perhaps dirt dissolve in fuel from the dirty carb, can create an excessive dense gray smoke that looks blue.
Great videos #1 n #2 Great explanations...understandable for me. At 70 I'm still learning. Thanks.
Thanks, man! I'm close behind, and like you, learning every day, ha ha.
Thanks for sharing this video with us. Your not scard to just dive in there. I did a while back but did go that far of a brake down.
Very good learned a lot, I`m going to keep this I work on my grand Son L120 V tech 20HP Briggs Thank you.
Glad it wasn’t too bad of a job Dave and amazing what a little cleaning can do. 😀👍
yeah, in the end a very gratifying experience. Thanks, Terry.
I watched so many videos and finally you answered my question. Jet 111 is LEFT, and jet 114 is RIGHT. Mine both fell out during disassembly because their O rings were completely deterioriated. Thanks for the video and solving the puzzle. Cheers
I'm glad it helped. There is nothing in the service manual describing this, and I can't guarantee it is correct since I'm the second owner. Mine continues to work fine and I've had very little done to it since this video was published years ago.
@@spelunkerd UPDATE- I just watched another video where the guy stated that he actually talked to a Briggs rep and they said the lean jet (smaller number) goes on the right. Frankly, I dont see where it would make a difference. Apparently B&S installed a lean jet for emissions sake. So one cylinder will always run lean, or you could say one cylinder will always run richer, with everything else being equal. Cheers
Really helpful thanks 😊
professionally done thank you very much ;)
Thanks for making this video. I have the same problem with my engine not running at peak.
I have been fixing my recently purchase L120 also. It was bending valve rods due to a loose valve guide in the left cylinder. After fixing that the right cylinder was not running right. I got the carb all cleaned up and put back together. I had a dirty float bowl, and a clogged pick-up, and a bad o'ring. Lots and lots of things to look into on these older 2nd hand mowers.
Great video as always,
Very detailed yet pithy and helpful
Thank you
Thanks for watching!
I can honestly say that was the most well done diy video Ive ever watched. How you explained every detail was excellent. You definitely have a nack for teaching. Thank you I learned alot.
Very informative. Thank you so much.
Thanks, excellent video.
My 22 horse husqvarna riding mower was spitting and backfiring on full throttle. Had low power. Sounded like it was running on one cylinder. After changing the plugs and fuel filter, still no fix. Tested both coils, both checked good. This video was excellent in detail of how to thoroughly clean the carburetor. After disassembling the carburetor I found the problem was the one of the jets was completely blocked with a tan jelly like substance that I call ETHANOL. The manufacturers sticker on the fuel tank approves up to 10% ethanol gasoline. THAT'S BULLS**T!!!! Folks stay away from ethanol gasoline in small engine carburetors. Great video with no BS!!!👍👍👍
I thought I understood the ethanol debate, but on discovering that alcohols are an integral part of fuel stabilizer I realized the situation is much more complex. Here on the west coast I routinely use midgrade fuel for farm equipment, which does not have ethanol. However when I store my vehicles over winter I put in, yup, fuel stabilizer! After the last use in the fall I try to shut off fuel to the carb while engine is running, to let the vehicle die of fuel starvation so the carb is empty during the winter. Mostly I store tanks full to prevent condensation of water inside the tank and to reduce progression of internal rust. Even so, we can all expect to have to clean carbs intermittently. Thanks for stopping by!
Just what I needed, THANKS.
Your luck is about like mine!!! Great video
You're a true professional
very well done video
Great video very informative!
Well spoken and articulate. 10/10
Thank you!
detailed video. Great job
Thanks for this video, I have some work to do on my nikki carb
Great Video! Thank You Sir!
Great video. Thanks for showing the impact driver.
Thanks! Gotta love your sailboat in the thumbnail image, I did a few sailing repair videos, too.
@@spelunkerd Thanks. I'll look on your channel. It's a 1964 Allied Seawind.
I really like your attention to detail, engines are like a fine watch; everything has to be just so in order to perform as desired. I enjoyed your video and you helped me. Thank you.
Thank you, I completely agree.
Amazing video and tutorial, I can't imagine how long it took you to shoot and edit! BTW - this is exactly the problem I am having and you helped me fix the problem.
Great video! Is very informative.
Thanks for detailed tutorial.. Since I have a 12 year old lawn tractor I've never had a carb issue with I'm skeptical my new JD mower with less than 100 hrs of use could have a dirty carb. But it's almost always cited as the most common cause of surging. Ill try the easy fixes first and if no luck I'll tear the carb apart.
Tried the easy fixes and lo and behold they have seemed to work. Plugs were very fouled so I cleaned them. Replaced the fuel filter (didn't seem to be dirty), and checked the fuel pump flow. Cleaned the air cleaner. The mower still surged and ran rough with smoke coming from exhaust. Still hoping to avoid a carb teardown I decided to try some seafoam in the gas tank. After running about 15 seconds the engine smoothed out and ran like new. I doubt the seafoam had enough time to work its way to the carb so I'm guessing there was some unburned fuel remaining in the cylinders from it running rich and once that burned out the surging and roughness cleared up. I have no idea what caused the initial rich mixture and fouled plugs. I'm just glad I didn't have to tear the carb apart. I did buy some micro bits, etc so ill have them on hand if it ever comes to that.
Thanks for the video
Great job. I'm fixing to tear into mine. A load is making it run rough. Thanks
thank you for the great video
good video time to clean my carb. out Thanks
Fantastic job sir thank you
Nice job with video!
Thanks for the video!
Great job I sure thought it was a coil breakdown when hot sure fooled me
First time to see your channel very good !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Thanks for the video it definitely helped 👍.
Great video! Another way to clean jets out, or at least help loosen the dirt, is to use guitar string. It works great and if you don't have any around the house just go to local music store and pick up a set of cheap strings for a few dollars. They may even have some extra scrap strings laying around that they may give to you.
Well I thought that wasxa great video very informative
thanks a lot! Very helpful!
This guy is fantastic
Great Video Thanks
Thank you! What a great video :-)
Great video helped a lot
Thank you, I'm glad it helped.
Dang good video. Thanks
Nice work
Thanks, man!
Cool helped me a lot
Awesome Video, I have the Kawasaki engine, but same Nikki carburetor, still a little different inside the carburetor, but I get the just of it.
Very helpful. Thanks
Thanks for the feedback, the design of these little carburetors is surprisingly complex.
I agree with many of the commenters that this is a well made video, however you skipped a crucial part. Underneath the main jet housing (technically "above" when the carb is oriented upright) there is a gasket with 4 O-rings. Those are ALL Jet holes. There are 4 Jets on this carburetor and the ones you didn't show in this video are usually the ones that cause so many people problems with surging and "only on choke" issues. The 2 jets in the main jet housing are in the plastic housing as you showed, the other 2 are in the other 2 holes in the carburetor casting. You'll need a flashlight to see them and then to insure they are cleared out as they tend to clog easily. You should be able to flash a light from the top of the carb, through the holes and the jets, and see light from the bottom. A sewing needle is too big to fit through the idle jet holes but it will unblock them at which point I use a wire brush bristle clamped in needle nosed vice-grips to probe the holes completely. for particularly corroded idle jets, you can use a smaller drill bit than the holes and massage the Jet hole with the flutes on the drill bit to insure proper hole sizes.
In no way am i contesting the info in this video, just adding my knowledge to it. I hope it helps.
Good points, I wondered about the possibility of further orifices deeper in the housing. I flushed it out well, and I did flush all the orifices I could find, including under the four hole gasket, but I'm not at all surprised there are further channels deeper in the housing. From what I hear you saying, there is nothing more to disassemble, just carefully look for more orifices and clean them all as best as possible. Anything more to add?
@@spelunkerd nope, that's really all i was saying. so to be clear, in the plastic housing theres 2 jets (Main Jets) for the atomizer stems and the other 2 holes next to the stems in the Carb housing contain 2 more jets (Idler Jets) to be cleared. Total of 4 brass jets.
Thanks for the video
Good luck with your projects everyone.
I have blue smoke and suspected it's a head gasket from my reading. I will try your method first to clean the carburetor but I will check the compression and tweak the valve gap. The PSI is 90 lbs before tweaking the valve gap.
Great job on this video. The detail in the presentation and the production quality were excellent. Thanks for sharing. My mower has the intek v-twin which, I assume, uses this same carburetor. All I need now is the nerve to take on the job. One thing I wondered about was whether you replaced any of the parts. I can only assume that you didn't.
I did not, but if you have time to find a seal kit for the carb it would be wise to replace seals.
When you were removing the carb that music had me thinking some creature was sneaking up on you 😂
Thanks again Mr Henry. As ever, all of your videos are excellent. Would you have a reference to the free download to a dealer repair manual please? Thanks again.
I got a free pdf copy of the John Deere engine repair manual at MyTractorForumdotcom, using Google to find my specific model.
Very good video
Great communication with the audience, how did you learn to do this?