Dude , ya just saved me a bunch of anguish trying to figure out my exact same carb on a twenty four horse Intek twin . Machine is new to me , and I am getting it ready to sell . I tracked the erratic running behavior down to the carburetor . Seeing your video showed me just how bad mine was buggered up when someone , before me , didn't properly fit the Dime sized O-ring [ or it got disoriented when the float chamber bowl was previously attached to body of carb. ] that seals the two white plastic emulsion tube housing pieces , the short one housing the A/B solenoid seat , and the long one that runs through the donut hole of the float . Now all I need is match a new O-ring (that I have tons of) up to it and hopefully after a good cleaning she'll be making good carburateing noises once again in proper fashion as it should . You are a true gentleman and a tribute to excellence . I'll sleep well tonight ... er , well - this morning . LoL Been researching for way before 9 pm. and it's almost 5 am , as i write you . I couldn't find this bottom load solenoid carb like mine for the life , much less a beautifully put together video breakdown till I stumbled into yours' Thanks very much ; . Dave
I watched so many videos and finally you answered my question. Jet 111 is LEFT, and jet 114 is RIGHT. Mine both fell out during disassembly because their O rings were completely deterioriated. Thanks for the video and solving the puzzle. Cheers
I'm glad it helped. There is nothing in the service manual describing this, and I can't guarantee it is correct since I'm the second owner. Mine continues to work fine and I've had very little done to it since this video was published years ago.
@@spelunkerd UPDATE- I just watched another video where the guy stated that he actually talked to a Briggs rep and they said the lean jet (smaller number) goes on the right. Frankly, I dont see where it would make a difference. Apparently B&S installed a lean jet for emissions sake. So one cylinder will always run lean, or you could say one cylinder will always run richer, with everything else being equal. Cheers
Today I just completed a "partial" rebuild of the Nikki V-Twin Carb. The rubber gasket "O" Ring in the fuel bowl had become swollen and the engine was puffing out black smoke and drowning in fuel so that O-Ring needed replacement. While I was at it I replaced some intake gaskets too. I didn't completely disassemble it because it was as clean as the day it was born. One note about the "jets" : They indeed did fall out but I personally didn't see any difference in size under a loupe and my Husqvarna is now running so I guess I got them in correctly. Your video was a good reference "just to make sure". Thanks for posting. BTW, $15 in parts and and some sweat equity saved me around $200+. Keep it DIY!
Your pacing , content and thoughtful presentation was excellent with my coffee. I'll be reverse engineering my carb shortly. So appreciate the help. Thank you so much.
One my Intek the problem was a worn float needle on a fairly new engine. The needle was a cheap plastic thing. You need to check that the float needle is working and not leaking or it will run badly. The replacement was not cheap. Thanks for a clear, concise informative video.
I thoroughly enjoyed your videos!! The most comprehensive I've seen in a long time. I had taken an exact carburetor apart and did not know that those two orifices inside the bowl were different untill I watched you describe left and right cylinder orientation. Thank you!
This was VERY helpful to me and my wife. Also (regarding your summary comments) your final situation fell right in line with our everyday motto: If it's not one thing, it's two others! Thanks again for your insight.
I’ve decided to just buy a cheapo Amazon replacement for $28. Sometimes, the labor is worth it. This time, I was convinced it wasn’t. Great video and thank you for making me consider other options 😅
I can honestly say that was the most well done diy video Ive ever watched. How you explained every detail was excellent. You definitely have a nack for teaching. Thank you I learned alot.
My 22 horse husqvarna riding mower was spitting and backfiring on full throttle. Had low power. Sounded like it was running on one cylinder. After changing the plugs and fuel filter, still no fix. Tested both coils, both checked good. This video was excellent in detail of how to thoroughly clean the carburetor. After disassembling the carburetor I found the problem was the one of the jets was completely blocked with a tan jelly like substance that I call ETHANOL. The manufacturers sticker on the fuel tank approves up to 10% ethanol gasoline. THAT'S BULLS**T!!!! Folks stay away from ethanol gasoline in small engine carburetors. Great video with no BS!!!👍👍👍
I thought I understood the ethanol debate, but on discovering that alcohols are an integral part of fuel stabilizer I realized the situation is much more complex. Here on the west coast I routinely use midgrade fuel for farm equipment, which does not have ethanol. However when I store my vehicles over winter I put in, yup, fuel stabilizer! After the last use in the fall I try to shut off fuel to the carb while engine is running, to let the vehicle die of fuel starvation so the carb is empty during the winter. Mostly I store tanks full to prevent condensation of water inside the tank and to reduce progression of internal rust. Even so, we can all expect to have to clean carbs intermittently. Thanks for stopping by!
Thanks for the great video. One of the very few reasons I continue to support TH-cam is for straight forward education by fellow travelers that have more time than money, and just need to see it done correctly once. Great job.
I worked on a Briggs carburetor today. I have found from working on this carburetor before, it will really help performance if you drill out the main mettering jets. I recommend approximately 3 to 4 thousandths. Briggs set the carburetor really lean. I drilled mine to 6 thousandths just want to see how it works. Mine is supposed to be a 25 horsepower. I just put this engine on a Yazoo zero turn. I think the original engine was either 16, or 18 horsepower. Hopefully this will help the mower do a better job.
Was asked to look at this engine for a friend. Had nt worked on that model before, so this was a very helpful and well shot tutorial. Well done and thank you !
One thing to note as you take off the intake, there are no paper gaskets, just the red rubber ring. I say this because my lawn mower store sold me them instead of the rubber ring. Their fault. There are so many different styles of Briggs & Stratton engines, yet some use the same parts. This was my experience with the store. These machines are so precise that a small mistake can cause problems. I do miss the old days when it was simple. Lawn mowers should not be rocket science.
@@spelunkerd yes, thank you. and I might add that Briggs & Stratton has been sold or outsourced, and you can find a lot of the parts on Amazon or ebay or others. Apparently giving my model number to the store was not adequate information. I've been to Briggs & Stratton website and they say sold out. But you can get Briggs & Stratton parts from different websites. Very confusing
Thanks for detailed tutorial.. Since I have a 12 year old lawn tractor I've never had a carb issue with I'm skeptical my new JD mower with less than 100 hrs of use could have a dirty carb. But it's almost always cited as the most common cause of surging. Ill try the easy fixes first and if no luck I'll tear the carb apart.
Tried the easy fixes and lo and behold they have seemed to work. Plugs were very fouled so I cleaned them. Replaced the fuel filter (didn't seem to be dirty), and checked the fuel pump flow. Cleaned the air cleaner. The mower still surged and ran rough with smoke coming from exhaust. Still hoping to avoid a carb teardown I decided to try some seafoam in the gas tank. After running about 15 seconds the engine smoothed out and ran like new. I doubt the seafoam had enough time to work its way to the carb so I'm guessing there was some unburned fuel remaining in the cylinders from it running rich and once that burned out the surging and roughness cleared up. I have no idea what caused the initial rich mixture and fouled plugs. I'm just glad I didn't have to tear the carb apart. I did buy some micro bits, etc so ill have them on hand if it ever comes to that.
your mellow voice just talked me into attempting the carb dissassembly because my d130 v-twin is sputtering and stalling and I think its loaded up in need of a cleaning. watched video several times think I have it memorized now LOL
I have been fixing my recently purchase L120 also. It was bending valve rods due to a loose valve guide in the left cylinder. After fixing that the right cylinder was not running right. I got the carb all cleaned up and put back together. I had a dirty float bowl, and a clogged pick-up, and a bad o'ring. Lots and lots of things to look into on these older 2nd hand mowers.
Nice video very informative. I have a similar problem with my mower, now I have some better ideas of things to check. Thanks for taking the time to share with others.
Amazing video and tutorial, I can't imagine how long it took you to shoot and edit! BTW - this is exactly the problem I am having and you helped me fix the problem.
I have an older version that needs attention. Thanks for the many good tips! I may now have the courage to open up the V18 that is on my vintage Dynamark.
I really like your attention to detail, engines are like a fine watch; everything has to be just so in order to perform as desired. I enjoyed your video and you helped me. Thank you.
Thank you for posting This video, it was very helpful in troubleshooting the issues with my more motor valve lash was the problem when I thought it was a carburetor issue .
Hi Terry! For another video that does the same kind of deep dive, Chickanick here on TH-cam did one that adds some more detail. She talks about how the seal kits from Amazon are often missing the correct tiny O rings that hold the jets in place. She said that you don't need to remove or replace those O rings if the jets don't fall out. I left those in .
@@spelunkerdThanks Dave for the added info! I did see her video and it was informative too. It turns out that a Briggs and Stratton rebuild kit from Amazon is $95 and some change. Unbelievable when it’s mostly gaskets. She decided to buy the complete carburetor from Amazon for $40 whereas the one from John Deere is $240. I hope the cheap carburetor will work. Have a great evening.
I agree with many of the commenters that this is a well made video, however you skipped a crucial part. Underneath the main jet housing (technically "above" when the carb is oriented upright) there is a gasket with 4 O-rings. Those are ALL Jet holes. There are 4 Jets on this carburetor and the ones you didn't show in this video are usually the ones that cause so many people problems with surging and "only on choke" issues. The 2 jets in the main jet housing are in the plastic housing as you showed, the other 2 are in the other 2 holes in the carburetor casting. You'll need a flashlight to see them and then to insure they are cleared out as they tend to clog easily. You should be able to flash a light from the top of the carb, through the holes and the jets, and see light from the bottom. A sewing needle is too big to fit through the idle jet holes but it will unblock them at which point I use a wire brush bristle clamped in needle nosed vice-grips to probe the holes completely. for particularly corroded idle jets, you can use a smaller drill bit than the holes and massage the Jet hole with the flutes on the drill bit to insure proper hole sizes. In no way am i contesting the info in this video, just adding my knowledge to it. I hope it helps.
Good points, I wondered about the possibility of further orifices deeper in the housing. I flushed it out well, and I did flush all the orifices I could find, including under the four hole gasket, but I'm not at all surprised there are further channels deeper in the housing. From what I hear you saying, there is nothing more to disassemble, just carefully look for more orifices and clean them all as best as possible. Anything more to add?
@@spelunkerd nope, that's really all i was saying. so to be clear, in the plastic housing theres 2 jets (Main Jets) for the atomizer stems and the other 2 holes next to the stems in the Carb housing contain 2 more jets (Idler Jets) to be cleared. Total of 4 brass jets. Thanks for the video Good luck with your projects everyone.
Great Tutorial. There is a breather tube for the crankcase that connects to the inlet duct from the air cleaner. Not hard to imagine a dirty carb might create conditions that would suck some oil in from the breather tube to create blue smoke. This happens in car engines if you overfill the oil or have a bad PCV valve. As well, excessively rich mixture or perhaps dirt dissolve in fuel from the dirty carb, can create an excessive dense gray smoke that looks blue.
Great video! Another way to clean jets out, or at least help loosen the dirt, is to use guitar string. It works great and if you don't have any around the house just go to local music store and pick up a set of cheap strings for a few dollars. They may even have some extra scrap strings laying around that they may give to you.
I have blue smoke and suspected it's a head gasket from my reading. I will try your method first to clean the carburetor but I will check the compression and tweak the valve gap. The PSI is 90 lbs before tweaking the valve gap.
I have rebuilt my Nikki carburetor a couple of times. I have removed the main jets and replaced the o'rings both times. My experience, despite using gas with no ethanol, is that the o'rings tend to get very soft, and yes the jets will fall out. The o'rings are supposed to be Viton, to keep them from reacting to gasoline, but it doesn't seem to be good solution.
excellently done, very thorough, I followed it to the letter, and still stops running after 10-20 seconds. It runs so strong with no smoke or anything unusual, just die like no fuel continually feeding carb.
Hmm. Consider bad fuel, water in fuel tank, bad fuel filter, failing fuel pump, air leak in fuel delivery tubing, vacuum leak, or rarely a sticking backfire solenoid. Not sure. When you find the cause, please stop back and let us know what you found.
This is a long shot, but easy to check. There is a small vent hole in the gas cap. If it gets plugged by dirt or debris, the engine will stall out as though it's out fuel. 10-20 secs. would seem pretty quick if that was the problem, but worth a try.
Excellent video. But I believe there is a specific gasket application sequence on one side of the carburetor ? I just tore mine off and realized too late ... one of my gaskets has a slightly raised half moon ? I think it was in middle of layer vs bottom ?
You make a good point. It's been so long, I don't remember anything that is not in the video. You may be able to find an OEM repair manual online. As you say, the order and positioning of those gaskets is critical, with many flaps acting as one way valves.
I'm sorry, anything not in the video is lost. I don't recall any id numbers, but a small engine shop may have access to data showing equivalent parts for your engine.
Great job on this video. The detail in the presentation and the production quality were excellent. Thanks for sharing. My mower has the intek v-twin which, I assume, uses this same carburetor. All I need now is the nerve to take on the job. One thing I wondered about was whether you replaced any of the parts. I can only assume that you didn't.
Just one point of interest - sometimes the plastic float may be found to be punctured, causing the float to fill with fuel and this will delay or inhibit the closure of the delivery valve with the effect that the engine runs rich all the time.
There are not numbers engraved in my main jets (which fell out before I watched this). But I put carb cleaning picks in them until I found a pick that fit in one and not the other. So I'll assume you're orientation is right and I'll put the bigger one on the right side. Just an idea in case anyone else runs in to the same problem.
Chances are, it will work fine. Honestly I am not certain those jets are different diameters, even though the numbering is different. Forum discussions here on the internet say they are different, but I didn't find reference to that in the dealers repair manual, either way. I went over this old video again, since this season I had difficult start despite using fuel stabilizer over the winter. This year, on replacing the winter gas with fresh premium fuel, the problem is solved, ha ha. While at it I was intrigued by how the fuel pump in these little engines is driven by manifold vacuum. So, even a small leak in vacuum could lead to a situation where the fuel pump is underperforming. If starter motor speed is low, or valves are out of adjustment, manifold vacuum may sag, leading to reduced fuel pump performance. Fortunately it is easy to assess fuel pump performance directly just by pulling off a line. Every time I go over these little engines I am impressed by the engineering details.
@@spelunkerd thank you for taking the time to respond. I just edited my comment to read there are *not numbers engraved on my main jets. I guess I have a 50/50 chance either way. For sure they are different size ID confirmed from carb cleaning wires. The parts list has several different part numbers for my jets but doesn't show where each goes. Interesting about the fuel pump. I was curious about that too. What you pointed out about vacuum leak and valve adj makes plenty of sense.
@@spelunkerd I think R & L are the opposite of that. I just saw a video from takeabathproductions and he proved how the jet on the R side is the smaller one using the same method I spoke about with the jet cleaning needles. In case this helps you or anyone else.
@@ocrun6765 I wouldn't be surprised, I am the second owner of this tractor. What does surprise me is there is no mention of asymmetry in the dealers repair manual, and my tractor seems to be functioning normally. So, if it is backwards, it evidently doesn't make a lot of difference, ha ha.
I hope you still check these coments....You refer to the 2 jets as right & left, but you are looking at the bottom of the carb. What is the orientation on the V-Twin of right & left, or #1 & #2 cylinder? My jets fell out before I knew they were different sizes.
Right or left refers to the viewers perspective when it is held exactly as shown in the video, while that remark is made. I can't guarantee it wasn't put in wrong by the last guy who worked on my engine, but that's the way it was oriented in mine.
When i removed the carb bowl, there were no jets in the white plastic piece (the emulsion tube). Also mine is black plastic if that makes a difference. my mower is a 2004 lt1000. It ran before i put it away for the winter. is it possible my carb rums with no jets there just the existing holes? I don't think they fell out when i took the bowl off.
Thank you very much for a great video.I am 85, which proves you are never to old. To learn. Thanks again &God Bless.
Dude , ya just saved me a bunch of anguish trying to figure out my exact same carb on a twenty four horse Intek twin . Machine is new to me , and I am getting it ready to sell . I tracked the erratic running behavior down to the carburetor .
Seeing your video showed me just how bad mine was buggered up when someone , before me , didn't properly fit the Dime sized O-ring [ or it got disoriented when the float chamber bowl was previously attached to body of carb. ] that seals the two white plastic emulsion tube housing pieces , the short one housing the A/B solenoid seat , and the long one that runs through the donut hole of the float . Now all I need is match a new O-ring (that I have tons of) up to it and hopefully after a good cleaning she'll be making good carburateing noises once again in proper fashion as it should .
You are a true gentleman and a tribute to excellence . I'll sleep well tonight ... er , well - this morning . LoL Been researching for way before 9 pm. and it's almost 5 am , as i write you . I couldn't find this bottom load solenoid carb like mine for the life , much less a beautifully put together video breakdown till I stumbled into yours'
Thanks very much ;
. Dave
This is fantastic. Clear and concise youtube "how to's" are a rarity in a sea of garbage. Thank you for taking your time to put out a quality product.
That was honestly one of the best DIY tutorials I’ve seen on this carburetor 😎
I have this same carb apart and cleaned on my bench I learned a few things I should check before reassembly tomorrow! Thanks for this video!
I watched so many videos and finally you answered my question. Jet 111 is LEFT, and jet 114 is RIGHT. Mine both fell out during disassembly because their O rings were completely deterioriated. Thanks for the video and solving the puzzle. Cheers
I'm glad it helped. There is nothing in the service manual describing this, and I can't guarantee it is correct since I'm the second owner. Mine continues to work fine and I've had very little done to it since this video was published years ago.
@@spelunkerd UPDATE- I just watched another video where the guy stated that he actually talked to a Briggs rep and they said the lean jet (smaller number) goes on the right. Frankly, I dont see where it would make a difference. Apparently B&S installed a lean jet for emissions sake. So one cylinder will always run lean, or you could say one cylinder will always run richer, with everything else being equal. Cheers
Today I just completed a "partial" rebuild of the Nikki V-Twin Carb. The rubber gasket "O" Ring in the fuel bowl had become swollen and the engine was puffing out black smoke and drowning in fuel so that O-Ring needed replacement. While I was at it I replaced some intake gaskets too. I didn't completely disassemble it because it was as clean as the day it was born. One note about the "jets" : They indeed did fall out but I personally didn't see any difference in size under a loupe and my Husqvarna is now running so I guess I got them in correctly. Your video was a good reference "just to make sure". Thanks for posting. BTW, $15 in parts and and some sweat equity saved me around $200+. Keep it DIY!
Looking forward to using your video as a walkthrough tomorrow. Best instructional video I've seen yet.
Your pacing , content and thoughtful presentation was excellent with my coffee. I'll be reverse engineering my carb shortly. So appreciate the help. Thank you so much.
One my Intek the problem was a worn float needle on a fairly new engine. The needle was a cheap plastic thing. You need to check that the float needle is working and not leaking or it will run badly. The replacement was not cheap. Thanks for a clear, concise informative video.
I thoroughly enjoyed your videos!! The most comprehensive I've seen in a long time. I had taken an exact carburetor apart and did not know that those two orifices inside the bowl were different untill I watched you describe left and right cylinder orientation. Thank you!
This was VERY helpful to me and my wife. Also (regarding your summary comments) your final situation fell right in line with our everyday motto: If it's not one thing, it's two others! Thanks again for your insight.
I’ve decided to just buy a cheapo Amazon replacement for $28. Sometimes, the labor is worth it. This time, I was convinced it wasn’t. Great video and thank you for making me consider other options 😅
I can honestly say that was the most well done diy video Ive ever watched. How you explained every detail was excellent. You definitely have a nack for teaching. Thank you I learned alot.
you just saved me a bunch of heartache, thank you sir, well done.
This video was pure gold for me. Thank you.
My 22 horse husqvarna riding mower was spitting and backfiring on full throttle. Had low power. Sounded like it was running on one cylinder. After changing the plugs and fuel filter, still no fix. Tested both coils, both checked good. This video was excellent in detail of how to thoroughly clean the carburetor. After disassembling the carburetor I found the problem was the one of the jets was completely blocked with a tan jelly like substance that I call ETHANOL. The manufacturers sticker on the fuel tank approves up to 10% ethanol gasoline. THAT'S BULLS**T!!!! Folks stay away from ethanol gasoline in small engine carburetors. Great video with no BS!!!👍👍👍
I thought I understood the ethanol debate, but on discovering that alcohols are an integral part of fuel stabilizer I realized the situation is much more complex. Here on the west coast I routinely use midgrade fuel for farm equipment, which does not have ethanol. However when I store my vehicles over winter I put in, yup, fuel stabilizer! After the last use in the fall I try to shut off fuel to the carb while engine is running, to let the vehicle die of fuel starvation so the carb is empty during the winter. Mostly I store tanks full to prevent condensation of water inside the tank and to reduce progression of internal rust. Even so, we can all expect to have to clean carbs intermittently. Thanks for stopping by!
Thanks for the great video. One of the very few reasons I continue to support TH-cam is for straight forward education by fellow travelers that have more time than money, and just need to see it done correctly once. Great job.
I worked on a Briggs carburetor today. I have found from working on this carburetor before, it will really help performance if you drill out the main mettering jets. I recommend approximately 3 to 4 thousandths. Briggs set the carburetor really lean. I drilled mine to 6 thousandths just want to see how it works. Mine is supposed to be a 25 horsepower. I just put this engine on a Yazoo zero turn. I think the original engine was either 16, or 18 horsepower. Hopefully this will help the mower do a better job.
Thanks for sharing this video with us. Your not scard to just dive in there. I did a while back but did go that far of a brake down.
Your tenor and tone made listening very easy.
Was asked to look at this engine for a friend. Had nt worked on that model before, so this was a very helpful and well shot tutorial. Well done and thank you !
One thing to note as you take off the intake, there are no paper gaskets, just the red rubber ring. I say this because my lawn mower store sold me them instead of the rubber ring. Their fault. There are so many different styles of Briggs & Stratton engines, yet some use the same parts. This was my experience with the store. These machines are so precise that a small mistake can cause problems. I do miss the old days when it was simple. Lawn mowers should not be rocket science.
Good point!
@@spelunkerd yes, thank you. and I might add that Briggs & Stratton has been sold or outsourced, and you can find a lot of the parts on Amazon or ebay or others. Apparently giving my model number to the store was not adequate information. I've been to Briggs & Stratton website and they say sold out. But you can get Briggs & Stratton parts from different websites. Very confusing
Thanks for detailed tutorial.. Since I have a 12 year old lawn tractor I've never had a carb issue with I'm skeptical my new JD mower with less than 100 hrs of use could have a dirty carb. But it's almost always cited as the most common cause of surging. Ill try the easy fixes first and if no luck I'll tear the carb apart.
Tried the easy fixes and lo and behold they have seemed to work. Plugs were very fouled so I cleaned them. Replaced the fuel filter (didn't seem to be dirty), and checked the fuel pump flow. Cleaned the air cleaner. The mower still surged and ran rough with smoke coming from exhaust. Still hoping to avoid a carb teardown I decided to try some seafoam in the gas tank. After running about 15 seconds the engine smoothed out and ran like new. I doubt the seafoam had enough time to work its way to the carb so I'm guessing there was some unburned fuel remaining in the cylinders from it running rich and once that burned out the surging and roughness cleared up. I have no idea what caused the initial rich mixture and fouled plugs. I'm just glad I didn't have to tear the carb apart. I did buy some micro bits, etc so ill have them on hand if it ever comes to that.
Full of the right info in a calm easy to watch presentation. You sound like such a great Canadian.
your mellow voice just talked me into attempting the carb dissassembly because my d130 v-twin is sputtering and stalling and I think its loaded up in need of a cleaning. watched video several times think I have it memorized now LOL
One and Two were both great videos , very informative 👍
Great videos #1 n #2 Great explanations...understandable for me. At 70 I'm still learning. Thanks.
Thanks, man! I'm close behind, and like you, learning every day, ha ha.
Exceptionally professional video sir! Very well done! Im tearing into the same carb tomorrow.
Great Video, working on an Allis Chalmers Rider with the 23 HP Intek and NIKKI, Very Informative.
Really helpful thanks 😊
I have been fixing my recently purchase L120 also. It was bending valve rods due to a loose valve guide in the left cylinder. After fixing that the right cylinder was not running right. I got the carb all cleaned up and put back together. I had a dirty float bowl, and a clogged pick-up, and a bad o'ring. Lots and lots of things to look into on these older 2nd hand mowers.
I'm going to play this music next time I work on my carburetor 😁
Great video, excellent content, pace and substance.
Nice video very informative. I have a similar problem with my mower, now I have some better ideas of things to check. Thanks for taking the time to share with others.
I’ve got that white/grey smoke problem. Thanks for the tip on the dirty carb & video.
Thank you for the excellent Tutorial. Great details and explanations. 👍
Amazing video and tutorial, I can't imagine how long it took you to shoot and edit! BTW - this is exactly the problem I am having and you helped me fix the problem.
Well presented and comprehensive clear instruction. Thank you sir.
Thanks for making this video. I have the same problem with my engine not running at peak.
Thank you! This helped so much. My jets fell out and I wasn't sure what side was what.
Well spoken and articulate. 10/10
Thank you!
Thanks for the video. And the tip about the linkage rod. Gonna be tackling mine.
I have an older version that needs attention. Thanks for the many good tips! I may now have the courage to open up the V18 that is on my vintage Dynamark.
Great step by step video! Thank you! 💪🏼
Thank you nice job explaining what everything does, might have had some trash in the carb but there wasn't any in the vid like a lot of them have.
Thank you my friend...
I really like your attention to detail, engines are like a fine watch; everything has to be just so in order to perform as desired. I enjoyed your video and you helped me. Thank you.
Thank you, I completely agree.
You're a true professional
Very informative. Thank you so much.
A fine and perfectly detailed video sir thanks for helping us out. I'm tackling mine soon now..Thanks to you..
Glad it wasn’t too bad of a job Dave and amazing what a little cleaning can do. 😀👍
yeah, in the end a very gratifying experience. Thanks, Terry.
Thank you for posting This video, it was very helpful in troubleshooting the issues with my more motor valve lash was the problem when I thought it was a carburetor issue .
Great video Dave! Looks like I'm going to have to rebuild this same carburetor on my sister's John Deere 190C. Have a great day!
Hi Terry! For another video that does the same kind of deep dive, Chickanick here on TH-cam did one that adds some more detail. She talks about how the seal kits from Amazon are often missing the correct tiny O rings that hold the jets in place. She said that you don't need to remove or replace those O rings if the jets don't fall out. I left those in .
@@spelunkerdThanks Dave for the added info! I did see her video and it was informative too. It turns out that a Briggs and Stratton rebuild kit from Amazon is $95 and some change. Unbelievable when it’s mostly gaskets. She decided to buy the complete carburetor from Amazon for $40 whereas the one from John Deere is $240. I hope the cheap carburetor will work. Have a great evening.
Excellent, clear very useful. Gives me courage to dive in!
I agree with many of the commenters that this is a well made video, however you skipped a crucial part. Underneath the main jet housing (technically "above" when the carb is oriented upright) there is a gasket with 4 O-rings. Those are ALL Jet holes. There are 4 Jets on this carburetor and the ones you didn't show in this video are usually the ones that cause so many people problems with surging and "only on choke" issues. The 2 jets in the main jet housing are in the plastic housing as you showed, the other 2 are in the other 2 holes in the carburetor casting. You'll need a flashlight to see them and then to insure they are cleared out as they tend to clog easily. You should be able to flash a light from the top of the carb, through the holes and the jets, and see light from the bottom. A sewing needle is too big to fit through the idle jet holes but it will unblock them at which point I use a wire brush bristle clamped in needle nosed vice-grips to probe the holes completely. for particularly corroded idle jets, you can use a smaller drill bit than the holes and massage the Jet hole with the flutes on the drill bit to insure proper hole sizes.
In no way am i contesting the info in this video, just adding my knowledge to it. I hope it helps.
Good points, I wondered about the possibility of further orifices deeper in the housing. I flushed it out well, and I did flush all the orifices I could find, including under the four hole gasket, but I'm not at all surprised there are further channels deeper in the housing. From what I hear you saying, there is nothing more to disassemble, just carefully look for more orifices and clean them all as best as possible. Anything more to add?
@@spelunkerd nope, that's really all i was saying. so to be clear, in the plastic housing theres 2 jets (Main Jets) for the atomizer stems and the other 2 holes next to the stems in the Carb housing contain 2 more jets (Idler Jets) to be cleared. Total of 4 brass jets.
Thanks for the video
Good luck with your projects everyone.
Very good learned a lot, I`m going to keep this I work on my grand Son L120 V tech 20HP Briggs Thank you.
Good two part video! And a fun project.
Great Tutorial. There is a breather tube for the crankcase that connects to the inlet duct from the air cleaner. Not hard to imagine a dirty carb might create conditions that would suck some oil in from the breather tube to create blue smoke. This happens in car engines if you overfill the oil or have a bad PCV valve. As well, excessively rich mixture or perhaps dirt dissolve in fuel from the dirty carb, can create an excessive dense gray smoke that looks blue.
You saved me with those brass jet inserts, thanks for the walkthrough!
detailed video. Great job
You did a great job with this video,very helpful.....thank you!
AWESOME , Glad you got it it fixed .. ! ENJOYED..
Your luck is about like mine!!! Great video
First time to see your channel very good !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Excellent video! Thank you for this!
Thanks for this video, I have some work to do on my nikki carb
Great video. Thanks for showing the impact driver.
Thanks! Gotta love your sailboat in the thumbnail image, I did a few sailing repair videos, too.
@@spelunkerd Thanks. I'll look on your channel. It's a 1964 Allied Seawind.
I like how you use dissolves rather than jump cuts
Great video very informative!
professionally done thank you very much ;)
Great job. I'm fixing to tear into mine. A load is making it run rough. Thanks
Thanks, excellent video.
This guy is fantastic
Great video as always,
Very detailed yet pithy and helpful
Thank you
Thanks for watching!
Great video! Another way to clean jets out, or at least help loosen the dirt, is to use guitar string. It works great and if you don't have any around the house just go to local music store and pick up a set of cheap strings for a few dollars. They may even have some extra scrap strings laying around that they may give to you.
Excellent idea. Best use I'll ever get out of a guitar string. Can't play for Sh*$
@@thostube13 haha
Thanks for the video it definitely helped 👍.
very well done video
Great Video! Thank You Sir!
Thanks for the video
Just what I needed, THANKS.
Very good video
Great communication with the audience, how did you learn to do this?
I have blue smoke and suspected it's a head gasket from my reading. I will try your method first to clean the carburetor but I will check the compression and tweak the valve gap. The PSI is 90 lbs before tweaking the valve gap.
I have rebuilt my Nikki carburetor a couple of times. I have removed the main jets and replaced the o'rings both times. My experience, despite using gas with no ethanol, is that the o'rings tend to get very soft, and yes the jets will fall out. The o'rings are supposed to be Viton, to keep them from reacting to gasoline, but it doesn't seem to be good solution.
excellently done, very thorough, I followed it to the letter, and still stops running after 10-20 seconds. It runs so strong with no smoke or anything unusual, just die like no fuel continually feeding carb.
Hmm. Consider bad fuel, water in fuel tank, bad fuel filter, failing fuel pump, air leak in fuel delivery tubing, vacuum leak, or rarely a sticking backfire solenoid. Not sure. When you find the cause, please stop back and let us know what you found.
This is a long shot, but easy to check. There is a small vent hole in the gas cap. If it gets plugged by dirt or debris, the engine will stall out as though it's out fuel. 10-20 secs. would seem pretty quick if that was the problem, but worth a try.
Excellent video. But I believe there is a specific gasket application sequence on one side of the carburetor ? I just tore mine off and realized too late ... one of my gaskets has a slightly raised half moon ? I think it was in middle of layer vs bottom ?
You make a good point. It's been so long, I don't remember anything that is not in the video. You may be able to find an OEM repair manual online. As you say, the order and positioning of those gaskets is critical, with many flaps acting as one way valves.
What was the number on this carburetor, an what numbers would replace it if any? Thank you. Your very clear.
I'm sorry, anything not in the video is lost. I don't recall any id numbers, but a small engine shop may have access to data showing equivalent parts for your engine.
Fantastic job sir thank you
Great job on this video. The detail in the presentation and the production quality were excellent. Thanks for sharing. My mower has the intek v-twin which, I assume, uses this same carburetor. All I need now is the nerve to take on the job. One thing I wondered about was whether you replaced any of the parts. I can only assume that you didn't.
I did not, but if you have time to find a seal kit for the carb it would be wise to replace seals.
thanks a lot! Very helpful!
Just one point of interest - sometimes the plastic float may be found to be punctured, causing the float to fill with fuel and this will delay or inhibit the closure of the delivery valve with the effect that the engine runs rich all the time.
Excellent point, David! Remarks like this one are why I scroll through the comments section on every video I see.
Awesome Video, I have the Kawasaki engine, but same Nikki carburetor, still a little different inside the carburetor, but I get the just of it.
Thank you! What a great video :-)
good video time to clean my carb. out Thanks
Dang good video. Thanks
Great video! Is very informative.
There are not numbers engraved in my main jets (which fell out before I watched this). But I put carb cleaning picks in them until I found a pick that fit in one and not the other. So I'll assume you're orientation is right and I'll put the bigger one on the right side. Just an idea in case anyone else runs in to the same problem.
Chances are, it will work fine. Honestly I am not certain those jets are different diameters, even though the numbering is different. Forum discussions here on the internet say they are different, but I didn't find reference to that in the dealers repair manual, either way. I went over this old video again, since this season I had difficult start despite using fuel stabilizer over the winter. This year, on replacing the winter gas with fresh premium fuel, the problem is solved, ha ha. While at it I was intrigued by how the fuel pump in these little engines is driven by manifold vacuum. So, even a small leak in vacuum could lead to a situation where the fuel pump is underperforming. If starter motor speed is low, or valves are out of adjustment, manifold vacuum may sag, leading to reduced fuel pump performance. Fortunately it is easy to assess fuel pump performance directly just by pulling off a line. Every time I go over these little engines I am impressed by the engineering details.
@@spelunkerd thank you for taking the time to respond. I just edited my comment to read there are *not numbers engraved on my main jets. I guess I have a 50/50 chance either way. For sure they are different size ID confirmed from carb cleaning wires.
The parts list has several different part numbers for my jets but doesn't show where each goes.
Interesting about the fuel pump. I was curious about that too. What you pointed out about vacuum leak and valve adj makes plenty of sense.
@@spelunkerd I think R & L are the opposite of that. I just saw a video from takeabathproductions and he proved how the jet on the R side is the smaller one using the same method I spoke about with the jet cleaning needles. In case this helps you or anyone else.
@@ocrun6765 I wouldn't be surprised, I am the second owner of this tractor. What does surprise me is there is no mention of asymmetry in the dealers repair manual, and my tractor seems to be functioning normally. So, if it is backwards, it evidently doesn't make a lot of difference, ha ha.
I hope you still check these coments....You refer to the 2 jets as right & left, but you are looking at the bottom of the carb. What is the orientation on the V-Twin of right & left, or #1 & #2 cylinder? My jets fell out before I knew they were different sizes.
Right or left refers to the viewers perspective when it is held exactly as shown in the video, while that remark is made. I can't guarantee it wasn't put in wrong by the last guy who worked on my engine, but that's the way it was oriented in mine.
When i removed the carb bowl, there were no jets in the white plastic piece (the emulsion tube). Also mine is black plastic if that makes a difference. my mower is a 2004 lt1000. It ran before i put it away for the winter. is it possible my carb rums with no jets there just the existing holes? I don't think they fell out when i took the bowl off.
Gee, I don't know, but it seems unlikely there are no jets. You might search for your dealers repair manual. I found one online for my engine.
Great video helped a lot
Thank you, I'm glad it helped.