My guy thanks so much. I just rebuilt the carb on my LA125 and it was still flooding like the Nile. Turns out it was that plastic tube assembly where the needle seats just like you said. 10/10 info.
You all prolly dont give a shit but does anybody know a method to get back into an instagram account? I was stupid forgot the password. I appreciate any help you can offer me
@Henrik Drake I really appreciate your reply. I got to the site on google and Im waiting for the hacking stuff atm. I see it takes quite some time so I will reply here later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
If you put the carb in a ziplock bag. And then fill the bag with carb cleaner. You can put it in the ultrasonic cleaner without making the water gross. You won’t need to change it as often either.
Steve Small Engine Saloon put the carburetor in a jar , filled it with gas closed the lid and dropped it in, looks like it worked awesome but....you need a big enough ultrasonic cleaner.
I cannot thank you enough. You are an angel. I was brought to tears this week trying to rebuild my carburetor. I can’t find a how to manual. I still can’t tell if the main jet was put in washer first or jet first. I have a 50/50 shot. Thank you for being better than everyone else. You have my like and subscription. Please keep up the DETAIL ORIENTED instructions coming.
Pretend like you are making a video for an 8 year old. I am a mechanical idiot who destroys everything he tries to repair. I know there are millions out there just like me.
I had to rebuild my nikki again at the seasons end. The float was way to high even with new parts. So I heated the float to make the float seat level with the bowl housing. Now the engine runs great and super smooth. Thanks for the video fella too.
Good Job buddy. This help a lot of us if and when we need to rebuild that carb. My shop all they want to do is to put new parts on including carbs they don't want to fix anything anymore. Have a great week!!!
@@doublewide6 I would agree if they where using after market carbs but they are using oem carbs and they pricey most of the time over 100.00 and then north of a 100 to 150 to take the old off and the new on
Just took mine about and cleaned it, no more flooding or surging, I will be buying a spare rebuild kit to have. Mine is a 11.5 B&S on a DR bush hog. Never knew the choke sleeve/plate came out that easy and spring was way to loose. Thanks
3:01 "sometimes this can be a pain in the but" oh yes it was :) Thank you for sharing your experience. I'm looking forward to get my carburator fixed with this video. greetings from Germany
Thanks dude great video. I took apart a nikki carb from the used snow blower I bought and I am feeling a little anxious , the blower was running fine but I needed to see inside that carb and clean it up , I hope I can get it back together right , your video really helps a lot.
Big Thank you, got my carb apart currently there was one part loose I had no clue where it came from and heading the wrong direction . This vid straighten me out
Thanks for the video. It was a big help. I pulled it apart and dropped the main jet and didn’t see where it came from just like you said. Something tells me you’ve ran in to that problem before.
I had a Nikki Sixx on a Polan 38 inch 15.5 replaced everything on the interior and runs now I just couldn’t figure out how to get the adjustment on the carb but now I know thanks man
Your the Best. Thank you very much. Your down home to the point teaching is what I needed. keep those videos coming because we all need a little help sometime whether we like to admit it or not.
I bought the rear engine Troy Built for $50 with a blown Briggs for parts. I went to clean the carb for a spare and there's no needle valve but at least the carb was spotless inside. Judging from the bowl screws I think this was delivered this way and why the engine seized. Great video BTW
Thanks. The main jet snaps into place in both the inside and outside of the fuel transfer assembly but it only works in one spot. :) The online parts diagrams were no help, as they all had poor graphics making it impossible to see the proper location of the main jet.
Thank you very much for the video. Good stuff. Lol I just came here to see which way up for float needle to go haha cause fell out and didn’t want to get wrong
In the video he's using the wrong screwdriver. Nikki is made in Japan, do they use JIS screws. Choose to Phillips, but just different enough to cause slippage and cam-out of the screw head.
@THEMOWERMEDIC1- First time with this carb. The bowl gasket is a pain in the ass But Unlike most glad to see you talked about how that goes on. What I find more a pain is the little O ring that goes over the plastic nub where the main gas comes in. Some of these kits the ring is thicker or wider and it is almost a done deal to get all locked down. Same with the little O ring that goes on brass and up in center of plastic shoot/tube. Two things here #1. What kit and link do you get yours. I see they work well in going in and locking. I need some? #2. The thing at vid point 11:47 what exactly does that part do when ajust to carb? Puts more fuel into carb thus slows or runs motor faster?
I find the plastic float tends to sag sometimes and that is why they flood. I would think the plastic seat would be fine if cleaned well with a q-tip. Have you ever tried to change just the float or heat it so the need sits correctly?
They sag due to the spring inside the needle. It's the way it's designed, just like the old toro 22040 Suzuki 2 stroke. The oring on the backside of the fuel transfer assy is vital in its placement as it is also a leak point
Constantly!! After having my own shop for 12 years, I can tell you that I hate Nikki carburetors. They're plastic shit that needs to much attention. (good video though!)
Perfect timing, I recently drug home a free snapper LT1533 and I'm sure the Nikki carb needs work from sitting with crap fuel in it, got around to putting on a new solenoid (old one was melted, guy i got it from said the previous owner hooked the battery up backwards) and now need to see if the flywheel key is sheared as it backfires through the intake. I'd put on a Walbro if I had any left in my stash to be honest a bit simpler to rebuild. 👍
Hmmm I think I like the old carbs better. Not sure I care for the plastic so much. But maybe it doesn't corrode as much with the crappy gas we are forced to use. Great job
"Flooding its bum off..." Yeah. I've lost count of the number of times I've had to pull the spark plug to clear the half tank of gas hydro-lock. Finally got smart and just put in a fuel cut-off...
I don't like the fact the USC. takes time to clean and then needs to be blown out to get all the water out. But no doubt the USC works great on old stale carbs.
@@doublewide6 I do rinse them with methyl hydrate (denatured alcohol??) when they come out to help with the water but it is still a time consuming thing. You are right.
Hey great job. I see there’s different part numbers on those fuel transfer tubes but all look the same for 13-20 horsepower Briggs engines. Even the prices vary.
Great job and explanation of how to service that type of carburetor. Those carbs look to be kind of simple, but if you understand how to work on them, they can be hard.
Thorough and clearly explained. You neglected to show the fuel shutoff solenoid being connected. The engine will not start unless this step is accomplished.
Good video brother, I'm fighting one of those Nikki carbs myself now, hopefully now I can get it licked. :) Thanks for the cool video, liked and subscribed. God bless. Rev. D.
Great video.. I am skeptical about how that gasket is designed it don't look like it would seal tight. I'm hoping it will work ok since I'm getting a kit this week. Thx Rick
I noticed one linkage had an added thin fine wire and could not see where it connected. Can you please comment on where these linkages are connected to the Nikki ? Thanks !
The "Governor rod" has a long thin wire like spring which accompanies it, They connect to the throttle valve (the metal one located closer to the front of your mower.... the valve nearer the back of the engine is strictly choke related and your choke linkage is attached to plastic. ... it has 3 holes, make sure the choke valve is in the open and hook the linkage up through the hole nearest the rear of the engine, oddly you hook the linkage upward through the hole not down through the hole.. Make sure to install the thick choke linkage through the slot in the bracket that your throttle cable connects to as you put the carb onto the air horn, otherwise you will not be able to hook the hook in the choke linkage on the carburetor. As for the Governor linkage with the very thin wire spring the rod goes in the hole that is lined with plastic in the spring goes in the hole that is just a hole in the metal linkage on the carburetor hopefully that helps!
Does the fuel float with new needle installed lay parallel with the carburetor body base when looking at the assembly from the side ??? Or does the fuel float just about stop at the top of the carburetor base ??? Thanks. VF
I have a troy built bronco with a 19hp kohler engine it has a nikki carburetor but mine has nikki 5 does the right gaskets for it come in the gasket sets
Unfortunately I watched this after disassembling carb &I lost the main jet. The rebuild kit I got had a new main jet, but after rebuild I now have engine surging. I’m concerned the “new” main jet has wrong hole size & don’t have the original to compare against. Do you or any of your followers know the main jet hole diameter.
so rather than just finding a screw and using a little sealant that would have fit the bowl to replace the plunger he decides to break the plunger to which now you can not use that plunger on another carb that might have needed a plunger replacement... smart very smart
Is WD40 the oil you used to get the gasket and O ring on? Trying to get an old nikki carburetor to work on a lawn tractor that won't start, to work. Do you think cleaning it and rebuilding it will make it work? The engine turns over but won't start. Thanks for the video, very informative
The question is....... do we need to rebuild the carburetor if a new one from Amazon is only 18 bucks? I have the one that starts with a W. Gas was coming out the breather tube.
NO! They use at least a couple which are very different port sizes. Running a shop I picked up a bunch of Nikki jets from another shop, thinking they were all the same. I usually learn things the hard way.
Nice video thank you. I have the same basic single cylinder briggs that had a walbro which the needle and seat failed. Do they have after market kits for walbro? I bought a new carb (Chinese) and it must need a larger jet.
would be nice if you added the sources for the parts needed OEM rebuild kit is near 70 bucks without the fuel transfer plate, I see you have an amazon site but didnt find parts for the Nikki any help would be awesome
My kohler sv720 idle surges +/- 200rpm the first 30 seconds or so when it runs high speed when started cold, runs perfectly otherwise after that. Any reason to mess with the carb or expected behavior?
i really need to know which direction you dropped the main jet into the tube. I bought a aftermarket carb and opened it foolishly and I think I didn't get the main jet back in there right. Thanks.
So we have a cub cadet zero turn finally got it to start it bogs down on high throttle and moves very slowly and black fouling on the spark plugs my guess is dirty carburetor
Hey Jeremy, do you know anything about the low end brass jets that I cant find anywhere except for that other guy on youtube who drills his out a bit. Thanks for the upload
Good job there I've done the same thing a maney of a times on those little carbs and they usely work pretty good for me too I still don't understand why they put the fuel regulator valve on them myself cause they really don't need it to run if it's working properly there its just something else to mess up on someone is all they are to me here have a good day and I'll ttyl now thanks
Well done, I've watched about a dozen videos now and you are the only one taking out the air screw for cleaning. Like you said they flood for no reason at all. Very profesional job done.
I have a niki 4 carb with idle problem. The idle circuit is plugged. There is only 1 main jet and the idle feeds off of it. Well where the idle feeds from the main is where it was plugged and there is no way to clean it because of the design of it. Ultrasonic cleaning did nothing.
My guy thanks so much. I just rebuilt the carb on my LA125 and it was still flooding like the Nile. Turns out it was that plastic tube assembly where the needle seats just like you said. 10/10 info.
You all prolly dont give a shit but does anybody know a method to get back into an instagram account?
I was stupid forgot the password. I appreciate any help you can offer me
@Corey Luka Instablaster ;)
@Henrik Drake I really appreciate your reply. I got to the site on google and Im waiting for the hacking stuff atm.
I see it takes quite some time so I will reply here later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
@Henrik Drake It did the trick and I actually got access to my account again. I'm so happy!
Thank you so much you saved my ass!
@Corey Luka Happy to help :D
Very helpful - really liked the slow pace of all the steps.
If you put the carb in a ziplock bag. And then fill the bag with carb cleaner. You can put it in the ultrasonic cleaner without making the water gross. You won’t need to change it as often either.
Now there's an idea. May try that in an upcoming video. Care if I give you a shout out?
I saw that idea in another video, I wish I could remember who it was... lol
Just reference you saw it on a fellow Tube junkie...lol
@@THEMOWERMEDIC1 From Steve's small engine saloon in Nanaimo B.C.
Steve Small Engine Saloon put the carburetor in a jar , filled it with gas closed the lid and dropped it in, looks like it worked awesome but....you need a big enough ultrasonic cleaner.
Anytime my friend, hope you’re doing well!
I cannot thank you enough. You are an angel. I was brought to tears this week trying to rebuild my carburetor. I can’t find a how to manual. I still can’t tell if the main jet was put in washer first or jet first. I have a 50/50 shot. Thank you for being better than everyone else. You have my like and subscription. Please keep up the DETAIL ORIENTED instructions coming.
Pretend like you are making a video for an 8 year old. I am a mechanical idiot who destroys everything he tries to repair. I know there are millions out there just like me.
I had to rebuild my nikki again at the seasons end. The float was way to high even with new parts. So I heated the float to make the float seat level with the bowl housing. Now the engine runs great and super smooth. Thanks for the video fella too.
Awesome video, thanks, I just cleaned a Nikki twice, and I wish I watched this video before I cleaned the carburetor on my 21hp craftsman.
Good Job buddy. This help a lot of us if and when we need to rebuild that carb. My shop all they want to do is to put new parts on including carbs they don't want to fix anything anymore. Have a great week!!!
Well, at the price of new carbs it may be cheaper and it you go aftermarket it is guaranteed cheaper.
@@doublewide6 I would agree if they where using after market carbs but they are using oem carbs and they pricey most of the time over 100.00 and then north of a 100 to 150 to take the old off and the new on
Just took mine about and cleaned it, no more flooding or surging, I will be buying a spare rebuild kit to have. Mine is a 11.5 B&S on a DR bush hog. Never knew the choke sleeve/plate came out that easy and spring was way to loose. Thanks
3:01 "sometimes this can be a pain in the but" oh yes it was :) Thank you for sharing your experience. I'm looking forward to get my carburator fixed with this video. greetings from Germany
I have the same lift table you do and I added a 2x6 board to each side and I can lift riding mowers with it now . it works great. love your videos.
Thanks dude great video. I took apart a nikki carb from the used snow blower I bought and I am feeling a little anxious , the blower was running fine but I needed to see inside that carb and clean it up , I hope I can get it back together right , your video really helps a lot.
I bought a Nikki carb rebuild kit and the mower still didn't run. So I replaced it with a new carb for under $20 and it works.
Not your typical take it apart, clean and reassemble in reverse order.
Thanks, much appreciated.
Thanks. I am kind of old and have rebuilt a lot of carbs but never this little Nikki. I feel that I can now without a problem.
Thank you so much that was a big help just rebuilt my Nikki
Big Thank you, got my carb apart currently there was one part loose I had no clue where it came from and heading the wrong direction . This vid straighten me out
You got my vote. New subscriber here. By far the most informative video I've seen on these carburetors yet.
Best video I've seen on the Nikki carb. Perfect. 👍
Thank you. Great information.
Thanks for the video. It was a big help. I pulled it apart and dropped the main jet and didn’t see where it came from just like you said. Something tells me you’ve ran in to that problem before.
Me too. Got my Nikki in pieces while watching this excellent video. Now I see where that jet goes.
Loved the info, awesome of you to explain it in easy to understand terminology.
I had a Nikki Sixx on a Polan 38 inch 15.5 replaced everything on the interior and runs now I just couldn’t figure out how to get the adjustment on the carb but now I know thanks man
very thorough, better than the rest, good job -thanks!
$30 to late missed this video. Outstanding job.
That center brass jet you installed can be put in upside down?
Your the Best. Thank you very much. Your down home to the point teaching is what I needed. keep those videos coming because we all need a little help sometime whether we like to admit it or not.
I bought the rear engine Troy Built for $50 with a blown Briggs for parts. I went to clean the carb for a spare and there's no needle valve but at least the carb was spotless inside. Judging from the bowl screws I think this was delivered this way and why the engine seized. Great video BTW
Thanks. The main jet snaps into place in both the inside and outside of the fuel transfer assembly but it only works in one spot. :) The online parts diagrams were no help, as they all had poor graphics making it impossible to see the proper location of the main jet.
Many thanks for sharing this great video! Now I can fix mine. Do you know the rebuild kit #? That would be great. Thanks Carl
Thank you very much for the video. Good stuff. Lol I just came here to see which way up for float needle to go haha cause fell out and didn’t want to get wrong
You saved me on this. I was not running the gasket to the outside of the perimeter of the plastic in bowl. Thanks
You're the first small engine mechanic I've found on YT that took the time to service a Nikki carburetor, everyone else tosses them in the trash
Been using the same one for 14 yrs. I've had it apart a few times.They are simple.
Been using the same one for 14 yrs. Their simple.
Been using the same one for 14 yrs. Their simple.
There's a reason. These thing were designed by satan himself. I do take them apart and clean them, but I understand why people wont.
In the video he's using the wrong screwdriver. Nikki is made in Japan, do they use JIS screws. Choose to Phillips, but just different enough to cause slippage and cam-out of the screw head.
Well explained. Good job kudos!
Thanks so much! Your video gave me the confidence to do my own rebuild👍
Perfect explanation, thanks a bunch
Good to know about the Nicki, good job on the close up shots. I refurb riders so this is good info! Thanks
just watched this video and it helped me with my problem, now back out to the shop to try it out
@THEMOWERMEDIC1- First time with this carb. The bowl gasket is a pain in the ass But Unlike most glad to see you talked about how that goes on. What I find more a pain is the little O ring that goes over the plastic nub where the main gas comes in. Some of these kits the ring is thicker or wider and it is almost a done deal to get all locked down. Same with the little O ring that goes on brass and up in center of plastic shoot/tube. Two things here #1. What kit and link do you get yours. I see they work well in going in and locking. I need some? #2. The thing at vid point 11:47 what exactly does that part do when ajust to carb? Puts more fuel into carb thus slows or runs motor faster?
Motion lotion is that what you call it when you are alone at night😆. Thanks jermery for the good laugh and the great video.
😂😂😜😜
I find the plastic float tends to sag sometimes and that is why they flood. I would think the plastic seat would be fine if cleaned well with a q-tip. Have you ever tried to change just the float or heat it so the need sits correctly?
They sag due to the spring inside the needle. It's the way it's designed, just like the old toro 22040 Suzuki 2 stroke. The oring on the backside of the fuel transfer assy is vital in its placement as it is also a leak point
Constantly!! After having my own shop for 12 years, I can tell you that I hate Nikki carburetors. They're plastic shit that needs to much attention. (good video though!)
Perfect timing, I recently drug home a free snapper LT1533 and I'm sure the Nikki carb needs work from sitting with crap fuel in it, got around to putting on a new solenoid (old one was melted, guy i got it from said the previous owner hooked the battery up backwards) and now need to see if the flywheel key is sheared as it backfires through the intake. I'd put on a Walbro if I had any left in my stash to be honest a bit simpler to rebuild. 👍
Very detailed video sir. Thank you for your time and simple presentation.
Hmmm I think I like the old carbs better. Not sure I care for the plastic so much. But maybe it doesn't corrode as much with the crappy gas we are forced to use. Great job
Great Job!! I think I can handle it now. Thanks
.
Thanks that was a very much needed video
"Flooding its bum off..."
Yeah. I've lost count of the number of times I've had to pull the spark plug to clear the half tank of gas hydro-lock. Finally got smart and just put in a fuel cut-off...
But you haven’t fix the problem why don’t you be “smart” I fix the actual problem instead of “bandaid”ing it with a fuel cut off
I should use my ultra sonic more but I like to clean carbs even after all these years. Thanks Jeremy -----like
I don't like the fact the USC. takes time to clean and then needs to be blown out to get all the water out. But no doubt the USC works great on old stale carbs.
@@doublewide6 I do rinse them with methyl hydrate (denatured alcohol??) when they come out to help with the water but it is still a time consuming thing. You are right.
@@kenhilson786 Same thing. Clear them out. Good for you.
Thanks. Mr fountain. Is it. Recommended. To replace the plastic. Seat. In carb. Rebuild. On. The Nikki. Carbs I still love the walbros.
Hey great job. I see there’s different part numbers on those fuel transfer tubes but all look the same for 13-20 horsepower Briggs engines. Even the prices vary.
Great job and explanation of how to service that type of carburetor. Those carbs look to be kind of simple, but if you understand how to work on them, they can be hard.
Thanks for taking the time to do a very explainable video.
Rebuilt one today on a JD 115 auto, works pretty decent.
At 5:33, what you called the "main jet" does it go back in with the little end first (on the side you used the pin to push it out).?
Thorough and clearly explained. You neglected to show the fuel shutoff solenoid being connected. The engine will not start unless this step is accomplished.
I enjoyed watching this. Thank you Very helpful.
Fill a container with HF and drop in. Replace with a walboro, all set!
Who do you recommend for a good rebuild kit for these?
Good video brother, I'm fighting one of those Nikki carbs myself now, hopefully now I can get it licked. :) Thanks for the cool video, liked and subscribed. God bless. Rev. D.
Make sure the Welsh plug on the side is still in or mower will run real rough.
What carb kit was used in this demonstration rebuild
Think u should pull Welch plugs and blow low side out or 9 times out of ten the end will surge
Would the new Welch plugs come with the rebuild kit?
Welch plugs a on a Nikki are permanently epoxied in. And do not come in the kit
@@THEMOWERMEDIC1 I knock them out carefully and epoxy them back in especially if it is surging
Great video.. I am skeptical about how that gasket is designed it don't look like it would seal tight. I'm hoping it will work ok since I'm getting a kit this week. Thx Rick
really enjoyed that thank you
Fantastic video man...great detailed information and descriptions. Do you sell stickers or shirts?
I noticed one linkage had an added thin fine wire and could not see where it connected. Can you please comment on where these linkages are connected to the Nikki ? Thanks !
The "Governor rod" has a long thin wire like spring which accompanies it, They connect to the throttle valve (the metal one located closer to the front of your mower.... the valve
nearer the back of the engine is strictly choke related and your choke linkage is attached to plastic. ... it has 3 holes, make sure the choke valve is in the open and hook the linkage up through the hole nearest the rear of the engine, oddly you hook the linkage upward through the hole not down through the hole..
Make sure to install the thick choke linkage through the slot in the bracket that your throttle cable connects to as you put the carb onto the air horn, otherwise you will not be able to hook the hook in the choke linkage on the carburetor.
As for the Governor linkage with the very thin wire spring the rod goes in the hole that is lined with plastic in the spring goes in the hole that is just a hole in the metal linkage on the carburetor hopefully that helps!
Does the fuel float with new needle installed lay parallel with the carburetor body base when looking at the assembly from the side ??? Or does the fuel float just about stop at the top of the carburetor base ??? Thanks. VF
You've done a few of those bro!
Thanks, this is well done, what about those $20 carbs all over Ebay, are they worth it or junk?.
I have a troy built bronco with a 19hp kohler engine it has a nikki carburetor but mine has nikki 5 does the right gaskets for it come in the gasket sets
Unfortunately I watched this after disassembling carb &I lost the main jet. The rebuild kit I got had a new main jet, but after rebuild I now have engine surging. I’m concerned the “new” main jet has wrong hole size & don’t have the original to compare against. Do you or any of your followers know the main jet hole diameter.
when you put the jet in the emulsion assembly was the oring end up or down?
so rather than just finding a screw and using a little sealant that would have fit the bowl to replace the plunger he decides to break the plunger to which now you can not use that plunger on another carb that might have needed a plunger replacement... smart very smart
I don’t think you mentioned the rebuild kit part numbers?
You have the rebuild part number or aftermarket carb number?
Where can I buy this kit. That o ring is tough to find and does the new one come with it
Thank you
Doing my first one now. Hopefully it works as good as yours
Good vid brah! I used the pb blaster. Don't leak no mo
Is WD40 the oil you used to get the gasket and O ring on? Trying to get an old nikki carburetor to work on a lawn tractor that won't start, to work. Do you think cleaning it and rebuilding it will make it work? The engine turns over but won't start. Thanks for the video, very informative
The question is....... do we need to rebuild the carburetor if a new one from Amazon is only 18 bucks? I have the one that starts with a W. Gas was coming out the breather tube.
Do these Nikki carbs use the same main jet ? For example is the jet the same on carbs off a 16.5hp and a 21?
NO! They use at least a couple which are very different port sizes. Running a shop I picked up a bunch of Nikki jets from another shop, thinking they were all the same. I usually learn things the hard way.
What's the part number to walbro carb you had on. Great rebuild of Niki.
That’s been so long ago, brother I can’t remember. Sorry about that.
Thanks man ! You helped me a lot.
Awsome again teach
I just replaced my nikki from my tb30r 10.5 powerbuilt Briggs with an $18 Amazon carb and runs perfect...
Nice video thank you. I have the same basic single cylinder briggs that had a walbro which the needle and seat failed. Do they have after market kits for walbro? I bought a new carb (Chinese) and it must need a larger jet.
would be nice if you added the sources for the parts needed OEM rebuild kit is near 70 bucks without the fuel transfer plate, I see you have an amazon site but didnt find parts for the Nikki any help would be awesome
The main jet has an o ring ...what way should jet be oriented...o ring end tworard carb bowl or carb body?
what gasket kit comes with the main jet oring?
Cool!!
My kohler sv720 idle surges +/- 200rpm the first 30 seconds or so when it runs high speed when started cold, runs perfectly otherwise after that. Any reason to mess with the carb or expected behavior?
Cold surge is normal
Till operating temps have been reached
@@THEMOWERMEDIC1 alright i'm pretty anal, but the valves are adjusted and it fires up choked cold on a half crank so i'll leave it alone.
i really need to know which direction you dropped the main jet into the tube. I bought a aftermarket carb and opened it foolishly and I think I didn't get the main jet back in there right. Thanks.
O-ring first
@@THEMOWERMEDIC1 Yep I had it upside down, Rockin and Rollin now. Thanks Man!
So we have a cub cadet zero turn finally got it to start it bogs down on high throttle and moves very slowly and black fouling on the spark plugs my guess is dirty carburetor
Hey Jeremy, do you know anything about the low end brass jets that I cant find anywhere except for that other guy on youtube who drills his out a bit. Thanks for the upload
great vid thanks
The main float will not stay in the carb body. Any suggestions?
Your the only one that I ever see rebuild one an it worked probably they usually work but never that good
I bought this niki carburator but wont come with the fuel shut off fluel solenoid port.
Can i use with out the solenoid?
Thank you
yes, no sweat
You will need to install a fuel shut off valve in the fuel line before the carburetor if you do not have the solenoid
Good job there I've done the same thing a maney of a times on those little carbs and they usely work pretty good for me too I still don't understand why they put the fuel regulator valve on them myself cause they really don't need it to run if it's working properly there its just something else to mess up on someone is all they are to me here have a good day and I'll ttyl now thanks
Well done, I've watched about a dozen videos now and you are the only one taking out the air screw for cleaning. Like you said they flood for no reason at all. Very profesional job done.
I have a niki 4 carb with idle problem. The idle circuit is plugged. There is only 1 main jet and the idle feeds off of it. Well where the idle feeds from the main is where it was plugged and there is no way to clean it because of the design of it. Ultrasonic cleaning did nothing.
very instructive
0ygrudeyf