Your “intake plate” is a plastic version of a phenolic spacer. It’s job is to help insulate the body of the carburetor from the transfer of heat from the intake manifold conducted by the engine. Keeps the carb cooler so the gasoline doesn’t boil and vaporize in the float bowl causing vapor lock. The boiling fuel creates enough vapor pressure to keep the float needle in the closed position preventing fuel from entering the bowl and cooling things down.
Just a suggestion, I have rebuilt a few of those. To help driveablity, drill out the mettering jets by 4 to 6 thousandths and it makes a world of difference. Especially if your cutting tall, or thick grass.
@16:36 good video. A tip I learn while working on Mikuni/Weber side draft carbs, if you think you might put the plates in wrong , mark them with a sharpie before you remove them off the throttle shift. When you put them back in you would know if they are correct if the marking are visible.
Would you happen to have a part number or size for the main jet o-ring (13:38) where it seals to the fuel transfer tube? I have this older style too and it seems all the rebuild kits are for the newer style with white transfer tube and two jets in the transfer tube which has a larger o-ring. (PS- it looks like the oring for the bowl was missed when re-assembling at 13:45)
Maybe it’s just me, but this is this is the third video from a small engine repair shop, that I’ve watched not clean the intake parts. Repair shops are charging $90/hr or higher. I just think while you’re cleaning parts, it’s only 5 minutes to clean the intake and makes a more professional looking job. I do appreciate the in depth repair, though. Very instructional.
@fillslawncare You did a great job. Very thorough. I did mine a few days ago. I didn't take the sensor off the bottom of the bowl and unfortunately I still have the same starts and stalls condition. I recommend making a mention of the solenoid and to check it. I think my carb service was a waste. I suspect the solenoid is the problem. Apparently it's a common failure.
What was the part number for ordering or size of the O RING for the Retainer--Solenoid at 13:28? Mine is like this and needs to be replaced. This is the older Retainer--Solenoid that has the jet in it at the bottom. The newer ones have the two jets in the Tube--Fuel Transfer housing piece. Does anyone know?
Can you help me put with something. I recently picked up a husqvarna tractor with a 20 horse v twin briggs. I pulled the carb off it hasn't ran in years I put it back on today and I can't seem to figure out why the throttle isn't working it pivots on its swivel but will not open or close the blades I feel like the spring on the governor lever isn't in the right location and I also feel like it's missing something else. All I did was pull the carb off haven't gotten a good look at it but do you have a video of how yours is set up so I can reference it later?
I have John Deere D130 Model 44N677 I broke Air Filter Intake box. The black one you mentioned in beginning of video. Where I can buy and what is the part number for it. Please send me link for it.
Great presentation. I will add that the pin holding the float in has a flattened end to put needle nose on it to remove. The pin will not come out easily from the round end of the pin from what I found. The flattened end should be removed and put in from the right post in your video where you show the pin. When properly inserted the pin will slide easily and then get tight on the left post. You used a good tool, the drill bit to tap the pin out... Should have done it from the left though.... Good job.
I will add a bit more. I just finished a nikki carb for a friend. He had butchered the float pin and broke the left post the pin attaches to. I used my Moto tool to spin the pin slowly and with 280 grit wet or dry sand paper I smoothed the end of the pin so it would move through the post hole on the right side. I then put the left broken post in place and noticed the pin was bent like in your video... ugh. Once I got the broken post in place and the pin floated through the two posts. I had to rotate the pin and found that it slid through the pin holes in one position. I mixed a small batch of JB fuel proof weld and put it on both ends of the post and post piece... Put it in place and put the pin in place, wiggled the post a bit making sure the pin floated easily and then let it sit... All good! The pin floats free. I have performed the post repair on a couple of friends motorcycles and they never had a problem after. Jim.
If you are going to do all that work, why not replace all the gaskets and o-rings? They are not that expensive and if you put it all back together and have an internal leak, you will wish that you had.
I bought aftermarket Nikki carb, only difference is the factory choke shaft has a spring loaded return on it new doesn't have a spring. Not sure what the spring is for because I have manual cable pull choke. Do you know why the spring would be on there?
For the single throttle/choke lever. The spring ensures that the choke releases when the throttle lever is moved back toward idle, that way air flow doesn’t keep the choke plate partially closed.
you must try Mopar penetrating fluid for cleaning carbs , its life changing , carb cleaner is weak junk , soak jets etc.....in a cap full enough to cover em , spray it into carb everywhere , spay it Ito float bowl and let it sit for a while or overnight , clean everything out with brake cleaner and reassemble , stuff will blow yer mind , do a lot of carbs and don't use carb cleaner anymore ,ultrasonic cleaners don't even beat it
Sometimes, have to tighten the shutoff/antifire solenoid to the main jet when the bowl is off. Also helpful to coat rubber o-rings with a little motor oil so they slide on easy and not bind up.
@@kaboom362 well no kidding, gaskets and o-rings are seals. I'm referring to the rubber o-rings inside a carburetor. You can't put silicone on those. Silicone and gas don't mix, you do what you want though.
Actually you can completely assemble carb ,then connect choke linkage afterwards ,you will just have to remove the bracket below the intake to connect the other end of your choke linkage. The bracket is only two screws.
I have same Nikki carb on my craftsman mower, the replacements from Amazon has the fuel selinoid off to the side on the bowl. Is it the same plug? Has anyone had this problem. I haven't changed yet because of this. Will it work?
It should work just take a look at your original before you remove. Most all of those are the same, sometimes they have a different location, but the plugs are the same.
You can use a small screw driver and pry at the center and you can get both jets out. Just a suggestion, to help drivablity drill out both jets by 4 to 6 thousandths, it makes a world of difference.
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Thanks muchly.. nice presentation, not drawn out and yet still explicit
Your “intake plate” is a plastic version of a phenolic spacer. It’s job is to help insulate the body of the carburetor from the transfer of heat from the intake manifold conducted by the engine. Keeps the carb cooler so the gasoline doesn’t boil and vaporize in the float bowl causing vapor lock. The boiling fuel creates enough vapor pressure to keep the float needle in the closed position preventing fuel from entering the bowl and cooling things down.
Just a suggestion, I have rebuilt a few of those. To help driveablity, drill out the mettering jets by 4 to 6 thousandths and it makes a world of difference. Especially if your cutting tall, or thick grass.
@16:36 good video.
A tip I learn while working on Mikuni/Weber side draft carbs, if you think you might put the plates in wrong , mark them with a sharpie before you remove them off the throttle shift. When you put them back in you would know if they are correct if the marking are visible.
Very nice video. Your instructions were great.
Would you happen to have a part number or size for the main jet o-ring (13:38) where it seals to the fuel transfer tube? I have this older style too and it seems all the rebuild kits are for the newer style with white transfer tube and two jets in the transfer tube which has a larger o-ring. (PS- it looks like the oring for the bowl was missed when re-assembling at 13:45)
Excellent video! Very helpful.
You could also grind down an old 1/2 inch wrench for the solenoid..
Maybe it’s just me, but this is this is the third video from a small engine repair shop, that I’ve watched not clean the intake parts. Repair shops are charging $90/hr or higher. I just think while you’re cleaning parts, it’s only 5 minutes to clean the intake and makes a more professional looking job. I do appreciate the in depth repair, though. Very instructional.
Thank you, great detail. I can follow step by step with you.
@fillslawncare
You did a great job. Very thorough. I did mine a few days ago. I didn't take the sensor off the bottom of the bowl and unfortunately I still have the same starts and stalls condition. I recommend making a mention of the solenoid and to check it. I think my carb service was a waste. I suspect the solenoid is the problem. Apparently it's a common failure.
What about the spring for the choke?
What was the part number for ordering or size of the O RING for the Retainer--Solenoid at 13:28? Mine is like this and needs to be replaced. This is the older Retainer--Solenoid that has the jet in it at the bottom. The newer ones have the two jets in the Tube--Fuel Transfer housing piece. Does anyone know?
Great, vid! Thank you for making & sharing it 👍.
Wow💥 Great Job !!! 🛠
Very good presentation
Is it necessary to check float height?
Can you help me put with something. I recently picked up a husqvarna tractor with a 20 horse v twin briggs. I pulled the carb off it hasn't ran in years I put it back on today and I can't seem to figure out why the throttle isn't working it pivots on its swivel but will not open or close the blades I feel like the spring on the governor lever isn't in the right location and I also feel like it's missing something else. All I did was pull the carb off haven't gotten a good look at it but do you have a video of how yours is set up so I can reference it later?
I have John Deere D130 Model 44N677
I broke Air Filter Intake box. The black one you mentioned in beginning of video. Where I can buy and what is the part number for it. Please send me link for it.
I’m Phil to Lololo and a mechanic for 57 years
Great presentation. I will add that the pin holding the float in has a flattened end to put needle nose on it to remove. The pin will not come out easily from the round end of the pin from what I found. The flattened end should be removed and put in from the right post in your video where you show the pin. When properly inserted the pin will slide easily and then get tight on the left post. You used a good tool, the drill bit to tap the pin out... Should have done it from the left though.... Good job.
I will add a bit more. I just finished a nikki carb for a friend. He had butchered the float pin and broke the left post the pin attaches to. I used my Moto tool to spin the pin slowly and with 280 grit wet or dry sand paper I smoothed the end of the pin so it would move through the post hole on the right side. I then put the left broken post in place and noticed the pin was bent like in your video... ugh. Once I got the broken post in place and the pin floated through the two posts. I had to rotate the pin and found that it slid through the pin holes in one position. I mixed a small batch of JB fuel proof weld and put it on both ends of the post and post piece... Put it in place and put the pin in place, wiggled the post a bit making sure the pin floated easily and then let it sit... All good! The pin floats free. I have performed the post repair on a couple of friends motorcycles and they never had a problem after. Jim.
From where are you ordering parts for the carburetor?
When you're not sure of the torque numbers, it's best to just tighten things to German specs..... Goot-n-tighten.
If you are going to do all that work, why not replace all the gaskets and o-rings? They are not that expensive and if you put it all back together and have an internal leak, you will wish that you had.
I bought aftermarket Nikki carb, only difference is the factory choke shaft has a spring loaded return on it new doesn't have a spring. Not sure what the spring is for because I have manual cable pull choke. Do you know why the spring would be on there?
For the single throttle/choke lever. The spring ensures that the choke releases when the throttle lever is moved back toward idle, that way air flow doesn’t keep the choke plate partially closed.
you must try Mopar penetrating fluid for cleaning carbs , its life changing , carb cleaner is weak junk , soak jets etc.....in a cap full enough to cover em , spray it into carb everywhere , spay it Ito float bowl and let it sit for a while or overnight , clean everything out with brake cleaner and reassemble , stuff will blow yer mind , do a lot of carbs and don't use carb cleaner anymore ,ultrasonic cleaners don't even beat it
Helped allot
Sometimes, have to tighten the shutoff/antifire solenoid to the main jet when the bowl is off. Also helpful to coat rubber o-rings with a little motor oil so they slide on easy and not bind up.
Use a synthetic silicone paste rather than a petroleum based oil.
@@kaboom362 silicone and gas don't mix well.
@@Thomas-ul3uy
Gaskets and o-rings are seals
@@kaboom362 well no kidding, gaskets and o-rings are seals. I'm referring to the rubber o-rings inside a carburetor. You can't put silicone on those. Silicone and gas don't mix, you do what you want though.
Yes it helps tanks
For new boots best take pictures of how linkage goes
Just saves time and fighting it
Great advice
You have to completely connect the choke linkage rod before you assemble the carb to the manifold. You cannot assemble it later.
Actually you can completely assemble carb ,then connect choke linkage afterwards ,you will just have to remove the bracket below the intake to connect the other end of your choke linkage. The bracket is only two screws.
Ihave not seen a metal intake on a Briggs v twin in many many years. They replaced them with worthless plastic ones that warp like crazy.
Makes ya wonder if they do that on purpose to your mower runs like crap , therefore forcing the buying of new ones
I have same Nikki carb on my craftsman mower, the replacements from Amazon has the fuel selinoid off to the side on the bowl. Is it the same plug? Has anyone had this problem. I haven't changed yet because of this. Will it work?
It should work just take a look at your original before you remove. Most all of those are the same, sometimes they have a different location, but the plugs are the same.
James Ryder...thank you.
It’s best to ultra sonic clean them if you have one but not a big deal unless your in business
Fuel Transfer Tube
Linkage installation
It's 2 jets inside the carb. Under the imotion tub. One is bigger than the other. Know one ever tells how to remove those. I just clean them out.
You can use a small screw driver and pry at the center and you can get both jets out. Just a suggestion, to help drivablity drill out both jets by 4 to 6 thousandths, it makes a world of difference.
don't for get the linkage for choke.
Air intake duct
The word is chamfered, not chambered.
I had to stop watching at 14:55 when you failed to install the gasket you removed at 4:10 below that plastic "passage way cover".
Helped allot