Just finished a rebuild on the older version of a Nikki carb on my 22 HP Briggs & Stratton Intek engine on my Sears riding lawn mower. My engine was smoking a lot at start and shut down and also when running. I found that both plugs had a lot of carbon build up. The compression on both cylinders was 135 psi and the leak down test showed a 20% leak on both cyliinders. OK for an 19 year old engine. Also, it was not using any oil. Your video was a huge help and I used all new gaskets and parts and followed your advice on each step. Started back perfectly and now runs like new. No more smoking and I used a can of Sea Foam to clean cylinder heads by pouring into carburetor with engine running to help eliminate existing carbon build up. It is just as important to know how engine components work as it is to rebuild them. Make sure you get the right parts by identifying you engine specs from the valve covers before ordering from the Briggs and Stratton website, there are a lot models in the same engine size and it is easy to get the wrong parts. 😀
7 Years later, this video is still helping people. I was at a total loss trying to get my carb back together correctly. I just could not figure out how to get the choke linkage to work right. This video showed me that I had put the butterfly in wrong, which was causing the problem. Thanks!
Thanks for posting this. the reassembly can be the hardest part of the whole rebuild. I didn't have the E3 socket so I end up using the two 7/16 nuts against each other removing and installing the studs that way.
I never would not have tackled this project without watching the video a couple of times. It then was easy (as most things are if you know how). Thank you so much for taking your time to make these videos.
Your very welcome....Glad to have helped ......It can become quite a task to keep equipment running with gasoline what it is anymore {effect on carb parts anyway} I really appreciate the kind words and if I can ever be of further assistance please don't hesitate to ask.
Today is May 15, 2017. I just finished taking the carb on my 22hp Intek off, taking it apart, cleaning it, and putting it back together. Its on a Craftsman LT 2000 that would not start or run. I had never done this before. Your video was an incredible help in doing this and the mower is now running. Just wanted to say thanks and to let you know I am really glad you made this video and posted it.
Your video is amazing. I am having issues with my zero turn and needed a video like this to help me understand how and what to do. I have ordered some of the jet o rings you suggested. I will have your video up as I clean and rebuild my carb. Awesome job and thank you!
Getting back to you just as I promised. Great News! I completed the reassembly yesterday and after a few cranks it fired up without even using the starting fluid as I have been doing all last cutting season. Can’t thank you enough and just love the videos you post! Also thanks on the Tulsa Warehouse supplier, going to order some preventative maintenance parts today. Thanks, Jake.
I just got done doing this job, and I'd like to thank you for the videos you made on this carburetor. I ended up having the New version, but I was able to get the parts, and get it clean and put back together because of you. My 12 year old son actually was arguing with me about it, and turns out he was right. That's both great, and it syx,but mostly just great, lol.
I hear ya friend ....LOL....My step daughter took one look at a H frame press I purchased and told me I had put a part on backwards ......I laughed and told her Riiiiiiiiiight . And sure enough as I proceeded to put it together she was right ....She still rubes it in on me { just wont let me live it down} Ah well I tell her jokingly all the time ....That even a blind squirrel finds a nut every once in a while. { little devils have no idea how much they are loved....} OH and your welcome ....Glad the video helped ....Thanks for watching my video...
Exactly the same set up I have ! Terrific step by step procedure , just what I was looking for .Thank you Kevin for taking the time to explain and demonstrate!!!
Mahalo much Kevin🤙🏽 awesome video! Wouldn’t have done it without watching your video. Now it don’t run like a CHIMP! it runs like a CHAMP👍🏽 Please Stay Safe😷 n Stay Blessed🙏🏽 Aloha
Thanks for this clear, organized well thought out video. I had mine apart a couple of years ago and had a hard time getting the linkages right when reassembling.
The intake manifold has a raised lip around each of the two barrel openings which creates a gap between the carb flat surface and the manifold flat surface. I can literally see daylight between the gap after I put it together and tightened it down. It doesn't seem intuitively right to me. I would think the lip should nest inside of the carb barrel openings so the two surfaces can mate flat and uniformly compress the gasket. Is this actually intended for some reason or doe I have some mismatched parts?
Thanks for the information. Between your video and the video by wtbm123, it made the task pretty easy. Thanks for the good work.. I just finished rebuilding my carb on my Craftsman 26hp v twin with the Nikki carb.
Mine doesn't have the fuel solenoid. There's two small brass fittings with very tiny O rings. When I took the bowl off, they fell out. Don't know where they go. Could they go in the plastic fuel pickup?
I bought aftermarket Nikki carb, only difference is the factory choke shaft has a spring loaded return on it new doesn't have a spring. Not sure what the spring is for because I have manual cable pull choke. Do you know why the spring would be on there?
its a restrictor and sandwiches between the carb and intake .... remember there is a gasket forward and to the rear of the metal restrictor. Note the restrictors were applied to theses engines because briggs was sued for not properly rating the H.P. of their engines .......personaly i just leave them out .....you actually make more H.P in doing so .and it dosent affect the running of most of the engines....a few.....but certainly not all as the jets are perfectly suited to run without the restrictors.
Kevin ive got the same carb but mine has two jets under the bowl ive dropped them can u tell me if there's a certain way to put them back in or does it make a difference thanks in advance
Just found you. Great video! I have the exact same carburetor with the same black tube that encloses the two emulsion tubes. Does this model use two orifice jets as I have seen in other similar Nikki carburetors? It appears mine doesn’t have them and was running fine until it recently started to surge and run only with choke mid to full. Any help from anyone? I completely cleaned every orifice and replaced all gaskets.
Just purchased a new carb. Installed it and I think I tried to start it about 3-4 times. It cranks but won’t start. The 5th time it just clicks. Battery good. So I took my screwdriver placed it across the solenoid contacts and she cranked. But still didn’t start. So I think I burnt out my solenoid trying to start it. So I need a solenoid now. But why didn’t my new carb start the mower? Maybe it takes time to prime it or maybe I flooded it trying to get it started?
Recently I got a beat to death mower with an 06 Briggs twin intek, early model. They had problems with the number 2 cylinder exhaust pushrod being ejected into the motor and wrapping around and taking the cam out. Briggs fixed it with new a new procedure, rocker clearances and rocker adjustment torque. I'd done dozens back in the day. 11 years out of warranty the customer authorized me to fix the cam, pushrods to and double head gaskets but not the carb. I emphatically emphasized that the carb needed to be at least cleaned since it had only been running on one cylinder and then sitting for a year, but NOPE! No carb work was authorized and it ran like shit and I'm the one to blame! It'll run lean on 2 and blow the head gasket. Not my fault.
True .....Its not your fault ......I have encountered the same problem time after time .......Your right and its foolish on there part not to have allowed you to perform the work. You seem very knowledgeable and I have no doubt that the work needed to be done . Expense is often the reason {of course the other is just blind absent minded stupidity } on the customers part ...I feel for you friend but hey you did try to do the right thing {Take pride in that }as often people try shade tree tactics to repair engines and screw over customers ........I am glad that you shared as its refreshing to see that there are others like me whom really just wont to do the right thing . Sadly there may be many things I or we can fix but stupid just will never be one.
i am having a tuff time on my L2548 twin scotts mower it surges hi and lo idle i have changed coils fuel pump vac hose plugs it starts with choke fine but soon surges i also have adjusted the gov when it is running the fuel filter also new does not seem to fill up like i would guess it should i can blow back it is not blocked what should i look for i put all new orings in just like you said any help would be appreated love the vid thanks tom
Tom ....I only wont to recommend you look for the following causes...first remove your valve covers and look for lose valve guides....next I would recommend you purchase a carb overhaul kit.......{ clean the passages in the carb as seen in my video } make sure carb cleaner is used to blow threw every passage....I would also recommend using a stream light to insure the passages are clear { the slightest obstruction in any passage will cause a surging issue ....} The o rings in my video are only used to secure the jets in the pickup assembly or pedestal . you must purchase a carb kit if additional gaskets were distorted. A great indication of valve guides that have moved is to remove the air cleaner element {filter and cover} .....Start the engine look for flash flaming threw the carbs air cleaner ......If flash flaming is evident then a new head and the proper gaskets will be required.... A leak down test will reveal witch cylinder has the issue . You can even do a compression check as often there can be a major difference in one cylinder from the next. How ever a leak down test is the required method. Last I recommend you replace your fuel lines { this can be a pain as often the deck must be removed to have access to the belly side of your mower..... intern.....providing a means to access the bottom of your tank ......Note a new fuel tank grommet may be required for the tank . I no this may seem a bit excessive but Fuel lines break down in about 2 to 3 years after most Equipment has been used or exposed to modern gasolines ....So I would recommend replacing them as they tend to become soft and break down internally providing rubber fragments to enter a carb causing a restriction . Clean passage of gas is imperative for a engine to preform correctly ....so just some friendly advice { purchase a new fuel filter as well} ....Briggs offers 2 I am aware of one being 75 micron and the other being 150 micron . Often clear ones are used with engines that have Diaphram fuel pumps ...{150 micron} I really hope this helps ....And Tom thanks for liking my video and being a respectful viewer. If I could be of any additional help please don't hesitate to ask.
I noticed you fitted only one gasket to the intake manifold and air cleaner. I recently bought the Briggs & Stratton 797890 Carburetor Overhaul Kit which come with a total of 6 gaskets. Could you tell me if only one on either side will do or do you need to fit all 6. If they all need to go on in what order should they befitted.
Great question/ on some of these carbs they made restrictor plates that would require the use of the additional gaskets ......now with that being said { Briggs was sued over lying about there HP ratings listed on there engines} Not because the engines were not power enough.....But because they were more powerful than what the stickers were identifying .....This really pissed other companies off and Briggs were forced to place restrictor plates to limit the Hp to appease the lawyers ......They even measure HP in gross torque now on some engines. But in all honesty you can remove your restrictor plate and have a engine that will run as originally designed { even have more power in most cases} ....2 gaskets are really all that is required .
My solenoid is sticky. Picked up this tractor and it’s been sitting a while. Gas is bad and varnished. Going to get some carb spray and hit the solenoid and see if it frees up. Good or bad idea??
Kevin Bolin It was the all metal version and it did work once I sprayed it. I’ll need to pull it back apart because I still have a hesitation. I don’t remember seeing jets in the black tube though..
Kevin,i have that older(late 90's) widebody (Murray) 17hp twin 42" and am looking for blades for it.Serial/model# is not readable.Any idea on which blades I need.The old ones I took off are beat to death so can't get an accurate measurement.Thanks for yourr help
Thanks for getting right back Kevin. I looked at mine today and noticed the gasket was installed correctly the triangular hole is a blind hole. I apologize. I bought a new e-bay $37.00 carburetor It was junk. Some of The 8 mounting holes didn't line up I had to drill them to get the long mounting screws through. The 90deg. fuel inlet tube on top snapped off when I was installing the fuel line. A Tech. that is now out of business worked on it a few years ago. He brought a complete Carb./ Manifold assembly to my garage and swapped it for me he also installed it. I don't think they are the correct setup for the 21.5hp Intek. I'm thinking maybe that is why the linkage is hitting? It mounted and ran good for a few years but I think that is my problem now. I'm thinking I will buy the correct assembly on e-bay. I'm following your video and trying to rebuild the present carb. The O ring on the retainer is way to big to fit onto the tube. I am waiting for a another one I just ordered. I hope it is the right one.
I have a B&S 22 hp Vtech and would like to know how you decide which gas jet goes left or right. They have engraved numbers 111 & 114. I can see one seems a little larger than the other if this would help in proper orientation. Much thanks for any help. I guess left and right is as you sit on the mower?
What about the jets does the larger go on left or right mine are 115 and 117 numbers which does follow the parts list currently. there is an issue of the jets falling out on the Nikki Carb.
At 2:50 installing the retainer, I need that o-ring. What is the part number of the kit you used, or the number for that o-ring? My kit didn't come with it.
hi Kevin: I hope you see this. I would like a response!! Really like your' vids. I have a simple question. At 9:19 am I wrong or did you put the gasket on upside down. I noticed a triangular vent hole in the inside of the carb and a round hole in the same location on the gasket. Just curios if they should line up?. I am attempting to rebuild my carburetor. You can buy a new carb for around $37.00 (I might do that) the price of the gasket set is the same or more depending who you buy from. Some times if you are lucky you can get a good carb. from Japan and just bolt it on. I have done that with singles (push mowers) A 5/32 socket will fit the 4 mounting bolts. Just saying,, :O) better than a pliers. One more curiosity thing, did you have to adjust the throttle/governor linkage when you reinstalled the Carb.? I noticed the governor link at the Carb. on mine is hitting the intake manifold would you know why? Maybe wrong manifold? Well have to go out and work on my Craftsman L1000. Thanks for the well done video!. Tool Man
Thank you for being a respectful viewer . I did have a look and seen why there was some confusion . But No the gasket was applied correctly . The gasket has two little tabs that protrude on each side of the fuel inlet once the carb is placed on the intake manifold . Note that some engines have restrictor plates that are applied between the carb and intake in this same location . On some of the newer style plastic intakes the linkage will make contact with a small portion of the manifold ....I really cant tell you why because in truth I cant provide a honest answer . What I have found is if one is very careful you can slightly bend the linkage to help avoid it from striking the intake manifold ....But be warned don't try to bend the linkage while it is installed .....remove and reinstall it each time you progressively make the bend to achieve clearance as you really shouldn't have to bend it very much . I have found that often the linkage just every so slightly makes contact and places light scratches or scaring on the intake so just a slight twist of the linkage will do the trick. { That little L shaped bend can be a pain }as to just the way it has to be applied to the carb. Though it is rare you may need to adjust the governor control arm and I provide a video on how to do that as well.
Kevin, thanks for the video. I have that same carb on a huskvarna mower with a 26 hp Briggs. It has always been hard to start when cold, since they day I bought it. It has to crank for a long time before it finally starts, but once it is warmed up it starts instantly. I have even resorted to starting fluid a couple of times. I plan to take the carb apart soon to check that little nozzle gasket with the 4 tiny holes, but was wondering if you have any other ideas. I have tried putting the throttle in different positions when trying to start it cold and it seems to have no effect. If you shut it off after it has been running for awhile, with the throttle set to high, it will not start again unless you let it sit for a few hours or pull the plugs to dry out the cylinders.
You said hard to start initially .....And once started and allowed to warm up it behaves as intended.......This is very concerning to me .......You could be encountering a issue that has progressively gotten worst .......Often this issue could be a moving valve guide in your cylinder head ........These valve guides can move due to the heat as well as friction from carbon that glazes valve stems allowing the valve guides to move as valve springs apply pressure as there intended to do . I have encountered this many times on V twin Briggs Intecs . You see once your lucky enough to get the engine running the alum retaining the valve guide can expand there for the valve stem and valve guide can move up and down in the valve guides respective intended area to be retained.......{The alum head}.....This dosent become and issue intel you turn off the engine and allow the engine to cool ......Now the valve guide could be moving just enough to affect valve clearance or Lash { another words not allowing the valve face to make contact with the valve seat in the head } This can cause a real headache for the person encountering this issue as on some instances the engine may restart repeatedly .....Then may require excessive cranking of the engine to restart it ..........I recommend first checking your choke on your carb to insure it is not remaining closed once confirmed then removing the valve covers ......CAREFULLY inspect the valve guides / make absolutely sure they are equal in comparison {both Intake and Exhaust} .........Check both cylinder heads ........Often you can perform a simple test once the engine is cold to determine a valve guide issue ......simply remove your air cleaner and try to start the engine if you encounter flash flaming threw the carb or a fluttering with kick back on the starter you have a issue with your valves or valve guides in a small engine . Do not be tempted to pean a valve guide back into place as often this problem will just resurface once again ......Purchase a new cylinder head if you have guides that have moved . Note if you do not have a issue with your valve guides there are two small jets in the pick up tube or pedestal in your carb that are likely the issue as the gasoline will distort them causing a issue of flooding cylinders by means of the carb under running conditions.
@@kevinbolin7665 I should have been more forceful when it was under warranty, I took it back and they said there was nothing wrong with it. I may get rid of it and cut my losses. A mover that cost that much shouldnt have issues from day one. I have lived with it for going on 3 years now. I doubt the jets are distorted as I bought it new. It seems to have good compression cold, and the choke is fine. It just seems like it isnt getting any fuel when starting it cold.
great stuff, i was just going to do my nikki carb and i am glad i came across your vid . you saved me a whole lot of headaches because there was a lot of the little things that i would of missed, and its the little things that gives you the headaches. what carb kit would be best to get because there are some with less parts in them?
Question. I see this carb is the new style. I want to buy a new carb for my cub cadet tractor. Will this carb replace the old style carburetor? Or are they different?
Yes / It will fit . But match the new carb to the comparable hp of your engine intended as jetting is slightly different depending on the cubic inch displacement of various twin cylinder OHV engines.
Often we try to cater to the masses . This can be difficult because of self entitled pricks whom stereotypically assume because we are Techs that we offer a plethora of videos to indulge them with . When in reality it would be damned near imposable to make a video for every piece of equipment we have had to contend with. I recommend you advocate a more positive attitude and maybe then perhaps we might provide the content you so desperately seek .
What exactly does that afterfire solenoid do? I have to pour gas into the intake to get the engine to fire but once it burns off that gasoline the engine dies. Fuel pump is working in fuel is flowing to the carburetor so it's getting fuel to the carburetor but somewhere after that I have a problem. Engine has 10 hours on it.
Only 10 hours on it / Friend Take it back to the dealer ....It sounds like a warranty issue.. But just a quick answer to the after fire solenoid question ... It is a safety valve that prevents gasoline from reaching the transfer tubes jets{cutting off the fuel supply when there is no voltage supplied to it.} A weak battery can cause a engines after fire to malfunction ....even heat up ...if the stator {alternator] is constantly fighting to charge a weak battery as well as supply voltage to activate the Anti after fire solenoid. Some people are tempted to cut the tips off the anti after fire solenoid ....It will eliminate the activation problem but can cause the muffler to blow off if there is un burned gases that build up in the muffler . So I don't recommend it as a practice on a new engine or any customers .
hey kev, I have a john deere 717A zturn mower, powered by a Kawa FH601v 4 cycle 19 HP engine. The carb # is 150037114 NIIKI carb. Was having issues with the carb either flooding or not getting enough fuel when trying to start. I had JD run it through their electronic cleaner, I installed the new gaskets they sold me and mounted it back on the engine. I also installed all new fuel lines AND a new vaccume fuel pump. You can crank on it all day with no start. I have gas in the float bowl but no start, I added a new fuel filter no start, you can add gas directly into the carb and it will start and run fine. I'm at a loss here have you got any suggestions ??? Please.
These carbs are terrible for collecting varnished old fuel when the fuel starts to break down ...Sadly in most cases the passages internal to the carbs just cant be cleaned once this effect has taken its toll on the carb ...Truly the only advice I can give you would be to purchase a new carb { sadly they are very expensive } I have encountered this model on other pieces of equipment as well with the Kaw engine . Sonic cleaners are your best bet to clean one of these carbs...... {only in truth }....... that I have found effective . But most people don't own a sonic cleaner so In your situation I will recommend getting a pot and putting water as well as dawn dish soap in it and boiling the carb for at least 3 hours ......Recently I have done this on two engines I have repaired and they seem to be doing fine ......Still its just a 50/50 shot for success ........As I said the sonic cleaner is best . I wish you the best of luck and the method provided has only worked on two carbs out of three .........So if you wont to take the chance it could pay off and no damage will be done to the carb or parts because its basicly just soap and water ...Just remove the bowl gasket, float and inlet needle valve so the heat of the rolling boiling water dosent affect them.. The rolling boil of the water will expand the alum carb enough to break down the varnished gasoline and could open the passages that are causing the restriction .
Thanks for the video. This is going to help me a lot. Can you tell me if there is a rebuild kit that contains all the needed parts? I'm having a hard time finding what I need. Thanks again.
David ....on your valve cover you will find some numbers indicating a model ,type and code ......Provide me those numbers and I will help you .....on some engines the numbers are on the blower housing as a alternative place to look . Also Partstree.com is a great place to look up the parts .....But I don't mind to help so please just provide me those numbers and Ill get back to you with the proper repair kit needed .
I have found for this model 3 types of carbs / the most popular kit was used on a Nikki carb part number 797890,alternative numbers for other kits include 792455 and 792456 sadly the jets will not come in the kits and the jets will have to be identified by the etched number in the brass.
I have a model #917.272910 craftsman tractor with a 20hp v twin that runs wide open when the engine is running i can take my finger to where the governor linkage attacks to the card and manualy throttle it down but as soon as i take my finger of the linkage falls straight to wide open any ideas?
im having a problem with mine it spits gas out the top of the carb and wont start. i had the carb apart and cleaned it but it still does the same. any ideas of what could be wrong?
Valve guides will have moved/ You will have to check if it is cylinder 1 or 2 ......its typically cylinder 2 ......Remove the valve covers and inspect the valve guides . If you have flash flaming or a fluttering loud popping sound coming from the engine after start up..... and once the air filter is removed you can see or hear this as your result ........I can assure you that a valve guide has moved .....However {very rare} you could have a dead spark on one of the cylinders........This to will cause excessive gas to spit from a carb........Note that there is a diode in the kill switch wire from one coil to the next so unplug each coil before condemning it . {check for spark from each coil with the kill switch wire removed from each ......you will find a terminal on each coil {armature} just under the body of each coil........If each coil provides you with a spark then plug the kill switch wires back in and check for spark on each coil once again......I have found that the diode in the kill wire lead can go bad only allowing spark to be made on one cylinder causing excessive gas to spit from a carb . Lastly in most cases if the engine just wont start at all check your safety switches including the Power take off for the electric clutch . Theses switches often are the problem.....The engine may turn over but just wont fire up......And continued cranking of the engine will cause the carbs intake to accumulate excessive amounts of gas even making it hard for the engine to eventually turn over.{grunting or wining} will eventually burn up the starter or solenoid. There are many ways to go about the problem you are having with your mower ......Personally I would check to see if I was getting spark to each of my cylinders first ......Then if I was I would remove my valve covers and inspect those valve guides just because I have seen so many move causing problems such as this. But as I said earlier if you have no spark Check those safety switches and the kill wire from coil to coil with the hidden diode in it.
Hi Kevin, great video. I'm rebuilding the same card and this video will help a lot. Could you please leave a link to the place you ordered your parts. I think you said McMaster, but the only one I could find was in overseas. Thank you.
Hey Kevin, love your video and very helpful. Wondering if you can help me, bought a used LA135 John Deere Briggs OHV V-twin from my brother in law but when he sold it to me he said to spray starter fluid in it when first starting. Well after using it that way last season it started but toward the end it wouldn’t start turned over but won't ignite. Was going to remove carburetor after watching your video but thought you could shed some light on my issue. Thanks any help at all would be greatly appreciated. By the way my brother in law said he worked on it but no telling what he did to it. Jake.
I have been in this situation many times LoL....You most likely have a clogged carb as well as faulty rubber gaskets witch are really the norm for these carbs to develop after about 2 to 3 years .....There is really no way to avoid theses problems { Stabile fuel additives } seems to help....But in honesty really isn't going to stop the effect of modern gasoline on the rubber components . I would recommend you remove the carb / clean it very meticulously. Find the model, type ,and code often found on the valve cover and purchase the proper rebuild kit from Partstree.com ........alternatively I use Tulsa Engine Warehouse as often once you have sourced your parts threw partstree {and have the kit numbers} Tulsa Engine Warehouse is fare more cheaper and still offer the kit as a OEM part. Be very careful when removing the float bowl as there are often two jets pressed into the fuel pick up or transfer tube. What I often do is color code each on top with a permanent marker /Note that each one is slightly different and must go back in there respected place. They can fall out very easily so it is recommended that you remove the carb and float bowl always facing up exposing the two screws that retain it facing you as you look down upon them. And be very diligent about the placement of these two jets trust me it is imperative to do so on most of theses engines{ there is a difference in each of the jets } I realize that there are often times one might assume that these jets are just fine and wouldn't have to be touched as long as they seem to be retained in the transfer tube ......but this is truly hardly the case at all ......I highly recommend using the small o rings I recommended from Mc master carr .......They seem to do a great job as a replacement for the deteriorating o rings that I am certain most would find on each of these press in jets. Note also that these jets come in many different sizes so it can be a real pain to even source the part numbers as well as there respected placement in the fuel transfer.....So that's why I always replace each one {preferable one at a time} color coded as I recommend earlier . I really hope this information helps ......This can be a hard repair ......But I am confident you can fix your likely carb problem with the purchase of a carb overhaul kit and those small o rings from MC mastercarr .If I can be of any additional help I am just a reply away.
jmercado4 I went through the exact same thing last weekend but I ended up installing a new carb bought from amazon for $132. Reason was, the kit was $75 and my LA145 is 8 yrs old now. I will have the old carb "detailed" as shown in the video and save it for when this new one goes out. I hope these 2 cents help!
@@kevinbolin7665 Hi man, thank you very much for "solving" my Intek/Nikki mystery about different colors on sparkplug tips ;-) One fine colored dark-grey, one "light"-black/"oily".. Tested how this eventually occured during oil-consumption, but NO issues has been found, ever! Just disovered (after disassembling, in microscope) left and right jet has different sizes(?!), and too, in IPL-chart, they showed to have different numbers, "left" & "right" too. Do you know the main reason for these different sizes? Some (Briggs-)documentation? One cylinder, with the smallest jet, is the most lowered, and this one burns fine dark-grey color :-) Considering to get a bit smaller jet for the "upper" cylinder.....??? And - of course - checking combustion, temperature, exhaust debris, and plug color! Looking forward for your comments - if you're still on channel...
Leo & Dan Ryan Look Up Taryl Fixes All He Is The Best He Tell you Step By Step How To Fix and Give You The Part Numbers How and Where To Get All The Parts You Need This Dude Here Is a Fly By Night Dude All The Things He Mention That Dosent Work Is Wrong They Do Work Cause ive Done Them More Times That He Is Old
Well it depends on the equipment .....Most mowers will require the blower housing and fan guard {dust screen } to be removed .Once this is done you may have a heat deflector for a muffler .....Then last ....just make sure you unplug the anti after fire solenoid from its plug ....This will expose the 3/8 bolts that hold the intake on allowing you to have some what easy access to remove them.
I need a completely new Nikki v twin carb for my 21 hp motor and I cannot find them anywhere where could I either order one or ho buy one brand new need help ASAP
Sorry for such a long time to make a reply / just seen your question .....I personally just look up my parts on Parts Tree.Com then once I have my numbers I spend a little time on ebay . Briggs engines have a model /type /and code ....with this information you should be able to look up the carb that fits your engine .
thanks for the reply i have put carb in a gallon can of carb cleaner for hour or so when i am cutting with the mower engaged it seen to run fine i have went through valves they were at .004 ex is at .005 i can take the filter out and find no sighns of flashing or backfire when it is at idle it seems to pop out of exhaust but as soon as you rev it up it stops and runs good the surg is not as noticeable at full throttle and seems to go away but runs strong i have watched your vidieo and try to do it the way you say i think it is in carb the motor runs good mid range also no issues there but like i said at idle and full throttle but not too noticeable at full and it runs strong so my question is fifty bucks for rebuild kit or one hundred for new carb thanks for your detailed answer again love your detail hellllllllllllllp hahahahahah
Swirl plate projections ? could you tell me where this is ? bit confused as to what you maybe talking about I even looked up a engine so I could see a parts break down .
when I bought my carb kit it came with a few different gaskets including one "swirl plate projection" . I have replaced my old one with this and I was surprised that it was not in your video.I can send you a couple photos dont know if I can do that here but if you email me at portabella@shaw.ca I can forward the diagram that came with the carb kit showing this gasket.
@@marcogag Just looking threw so old comments and came across this one ...I see perfectly what you mean ….forgive my ignorance …...The swirl plate although provided isn't essential …..it gets applied after the carbs mounting gasket ….In truth engineers would have you believe that this plate swirls the gas to air mixture …..However in truth it actually restricts air flow ……Briggs was actually sued over lying about HP ratings and then started stating gross torque on there engines . They devised a plan to make certain engines with more hp rather than less and sale them to various companies to avoid having to make a certain cubic inch engine . I personally think this was a great idea …..I mean who would complain having more for less {right}…….Honda.....Kaw.....and Kohler to just name a few ...So briggs was under the gun so to speak …..And after much debate they devised a restrictor plate to limit air to gas ratios from entering the engines lowering the Hp just enough to keep lawyers from cashing in . You see it wasn't that the engines wasn't powerful enough......rather wasn't fair for the other companies whom actually invested in molding and or casting of the actual engines that where true to the cubic inch displacement . So restrictors on some of the older Intecs where not imperative rather a obligation …..Often removing them can even increase HP .
Hey Kevin, sorry to bother you again but I'm having a difficult time finding the correct o-ring at Mc Mastercarr. I think I found it but it but would like to verify and ask if this info is correct. Especially the item number? I found Chemical-Resistant Viton® Fluoroelastomer O-Ring, 1 mm Wide,2.5 mm ID item # 9263K546
Yes / this info is correct ....just apply a little motor oil to each before pressing them into the fuel transfer tube.{ note a small allen key makes for a great tool to press them back into place.} often you can hear a soft click when they are in place.
I just bought a 20 horse v twin with this carb on it ...it would start and die a second later i tore it apart and cleaned everything put it back on it runs now but surges at high idle under a load say with the deck engaged.....think it might just need a total rebuild?
It could / Question? did you purchase the engine second handed? If so I would tell you to check your fuel filter and fuel pump ....They could be partially clogged .....A weak fuel pump can cause this as Briggs fuel pumps act off of a diaphragm principle to achieve the fuel that gets delivered to the carb ...Check the pulse hose that connects to the fuel pump and valve cover......Also I would ask you before you tackle this to run the engine about 3 min with the air cleaner and cover removed { look for flash Flaming from the carb or a popping sound following a miss } this can indicate several things ......For example a bent push rod, loose valves that need adjusting ,The ever so often loose valve guide that moves when the engine is warm. Rocker arm stud backing out......Also quick note here {Check your coils for fire} On most these models there is a diode between the two coils and if it gos bad that will cause a V Twin to Surge as one cylinder may not be firing and there is a increase in gasoline ........Often this can be diagnosed by simply taking a small spray bottle full of water and spraying the area around the two exhaust manifold pipes mating surfaces {engine to manifold}.
I took it all back apart again and did a better cleaning on it and it runs great now! Your video helped me out because i didnt clean the ports as good as i thought the first time....i used a wire from a bread tie (stripped) and ran it through all the ports and jets...also the vacuum tube from the pump is shot its a straight one about 1 1/2 inchs long if you know where i can get one new that would be great! Thanks man!
Perhaps I can help / How is the mower behaving ? Dose it try to run at all ? What normally prevents these v twin engines from running is bent pushrods, valve guides that move ,or in most cases a carb that has endured the affect of old fuel that causes them to break down internal parts that are made of neoprene rubber or viton .. So sadly you may need to purchase a carb rebuild kit for your engine ... Most people will encounter surging of the engine if there is a carb issue . Or if a pushrod is bent {flash flaming threw the carb } this effect can be determined by removing the air cleaner cover and air filter and watching for light blue flames that crackle and pop out of the carb. Note that a valve guide that has became loose and moved can have this affect as well so if you are being tormented by this effect make sure you check for bent pushrods and for a moved valve guide once you remove the valve covers .
If they don't have numbers ....I really couldn't say ....Sadly you may have to try by trial and error. I have had to do this my self more than once or twice.
I think I have located the main jets I need only eReplacementParts.com Only problem is the description of the jets don't tell which is the right jets and the left jet. The part #'so as far as I can tell is this Part # 842627 is the Right Jet and Part# 792296 is the Left Jets. If you could recheck my search to see if I am correct I would really appreciate it. Sorry for my lack of knowledge I am new to fixing small engines all around. Thank you for your assistance and the great videos.
Yes gladly but first I need the model of the Briggs engine ,Type, and lastly the code ....They are found on the blower housings as well as one of the valve covers on some engines.
It's pronounced "Nick-EEE" not Nick-eye......brother you have got to be a Yankee. All them R's in your words. LOL (no offense intended, all my in-laws are Yankees)
You have a very informative video. However, you continually distract me when you cal the Solenoid (sol-in-oid) a setaloid. Please learn to say it correctly.
Thankyou ….Comprehension is and was the premise . My ability or even inability to say the word solenoid dosent excuse ones ability to gather a solid relative perspective upon what was being projected . So I ask respectfully ,,,,with how perceptively acute you are is stereotyping this situation essential to find clarity?
@@kevinbolin7665 Absolutely not!!! I actually brought it up not to demean but to be like Taryl, you obviously knew what you were saying and how you said it but "You have a very informative video."
Just finished a rebuild on the older version of a Nikki carb on my 22 HP Briggs & Stratton Intek engine on my Sears riding lawn mower. My engine was smoking a lot at start and shut down and also when running. I found that both plugs had a lot of carbon build up. The compression on both cylinders was 135 psi and the leak down test showed a 20% leak on both cyliinders. OK for an 19 year old engine. Also, it was not using any oil. Your video was a huge help and I used all new gaskets and parts and followed your advice on each step. Started back perfectly and now runs like new. No more smoking and I used a can of Sea Foam to clean cylinder heads by pouring into carburetor with engine running to help eliminate existing carbon build up. It is just as important to know how engine components work as it is to rebuild them. Make sure you get the right parts by identifying you engine specs from the valve covers before ordering from the Briggs and Stratton website, there are a lot models in the same engine size and it is easy to get the wrong parts. 😀
7 Years later, this video is still helping people. I was at a total loss trying to get my carb back together correctly. I just could not figure out how to get the choke linkage to work right. This video showed me that I had put the butterfly in wrong, which was causing the problem. Thanks!
Thanks for posting this. the reassembly can be the hardest part of the whole rebuild. I didn't have the E3 socket so I end up using the two 7/16 nuts against each other removing and installing the studs that way.
I never would not have tackled this project without watching the video a couple of times. It then was easy (as most things are if you know how). Thank you so much for taking your time to make these videos.
Your very welcome....Glad to have helped ......It can become quite a task to keep equipment running with gasoline what it is anymore {effect on carb parts anyway} I really appreciate the kind words and if I can ever be of further assistance please don't hesitate to ask.
Today is May 15, 2017. I just finished taking the carb on my 22hp Intek off, taking it apart, cleaning it, and putting it back together. Its on a Craftsman LT 2000 that would not start or run. I had never done this before. Your video was an incredible help in doing this and the mower is now running. Just wanted to say thanks and to let you know I am really glad you made this video and posted it.
Your very welcome....glad to have helped..
One of the best illustrations that I have ever seen.
Your video is amazing. I am having issues with my zero turn and needed a video like this to help me understand how and what to do. I have ordered some of the jet o rings you suggested. I will have your video up as I clean and rebuild my carb. Awesome job and thank you!
Getting back to you just as I promised. Great News! I completed the reassembly yesterday and after a few cranks it fired up without even using the starting fluid as I have been doing all last cutting season. Can’t thank you enough and just love the videos you post! Also thanks on the Tulsa Warehouse supplier, going to order some preventative maintenance parts today.
Thanks, Jake.
Your so very welcome /glad to see everything worked out for you .....
Many thanks Kevin it helps a lot, I have taken notes and now feel quite confident about the rebuild
Your very welcome ...Hope the rebuild is easy ...if you have any questions please dont hesitate to ask .
I just got done doing this job, and I'd like to thank you for the videos you made on this carburetor. I ended up having the New version, but I was able to get the parts, and get it clean and put back together because of you. My 12 year old son actually was arguing with me about it, and turns out he was right. That's both great, and it syx,but mostly just great, lol.
I hear ya friend ....LOL....My step daughter took one look at a H frame press I purchased and told me I had put a part on backwards ......I laughed and told her Riiiiiiiiiight . And sure enough as I proceeded to put it together she was right ....She still rubes it in on me { just wont let me live it down} Ah well I tell her jokingly all the time ....That even a blind squirrel finds a nut every once in a while. { little devils have no idea how much they are loved....} OH and your welcome ....Glad the video helped ....Thanks for watching my video...
Exactly the same set up I have ! Terrific step by step procedure , just what I was looking for .Thank you Kevin for taking the time to explain and demonstrate!!!
It kg h
very helpful assembly, especially the choke and throttle linkages. Thanks.
Glad you found the video helpful. Thanks for the kindness in this comment.
Excellent video. Exactly what I was looking for. Thanks
Great Vid! Someone took a few bolts and a jet from my work bench. I needed this video to help me get it back together. Thank You Sir!
Your welcome ......glad to have helped.
Appreciate the video Kevin....couldn't have done it without your assistance.
Welcome /glad to have helped .
Very informative. I got stuck on the choke butterfly. Found your video, and bam!!! Problem solved. Thanks!!
Very welcome ......Glad to have helped.
Preciate you taking the time to vid this.
great over view of a nikki .... thank you for breaking it down for me.. you saved me alot of time n effort needed....
Your very welcome / Glad to have helped....
Mahalo much Kevin🤙🏽 awesome video! Wouldn’t have done it without watching your video. Now it don’t run like a CHIMP! it runs like a CHAMP👍🏽
Please Stay Safe😷 n Stay Blessed🙏🏽 Aloha
Thanks for this clear, organized well thought out video. I had mine apart a couple of years ago and had a hard time getting the linkages right when reassembling.
Thank you ..viewers like you are what make my efforts worth the time to make videos...
Thanks for the videos, Kevin! Yours are, by far, the best on this subject on TH-cam!
Thanks .....And its nice to have viewers like you whom appreciate the time and effort .
You saved me some coin with this vid man.
Thank you very much from Western Australia
Very welcome ......glad you enjoyed the video and it proved to be helpful.
The intake manifold has a raised lip around each of the two barrel openings which creates a gap between the carb flat surface and the manifold flat surface. I can literally see daylight between the gap after I put it together and tightened it down. It doesn't seem intuitively right to me. I would think the lip should nest inside of the carb barrel openings so the two surfaces can mate flat and uniformly compress the gasket. Is this actually intended for some reason or doe I have some mismatched parts?
Thanks for the information. Between your video and the video by wtbm123, it made the task pretty easy. Thanks for the good work.. I just finished rebuilding my carb on my Craftsman 26hp v twin with the Nikki carb.
Thanks /glad to have helped...
Mine doesn't have the fuel solenoid. There's two small brass fittings with very tiny O rings. When I took the bowl off, they fell out. Don't know where they go. Could they go in the plastic fuel pickup?
I bought aftermarket Nikki carb, only difference is the factory choke shaft has a spring loaded return on it new doesn't have a spring. Not sure what the spring is for because I have manual cable pull choke. Do you know why the spring would be on there?
Simple and easy to kit it
I like theses carbs
Kevin,
The metal gasket that is included with The gaskets for the choke. How does it go on the rebuild? Thank you very much. Love your videos.
its a restrictor and sandwiches between the carb and intake .... remember there is a gasket forward and to the rear of the metal restrictor. Note the restrictors were applied to theses engines because briggs was sued for not properly rating the H.P. of their engines .......personaly i just leave them out .....you actually make more H.P in doing so .and it dosent affect the running of most of the engines....a few.....but certainly not all as the jets are perfectly suited to run without the restrictors.
Kevin ive got the same carb but mine has two jets under the bowl ive dropped them can u tell me if there's a certain way to put them back in or does it make a difference thanks in advance
Just found you. Great video! I have the exact same carburetor with the same black tube that encloses the two emulsion tubes. Does this model use two orifice jets as I have seen in other similar Nikki carburetors? It appears mine doesn’t have them and was running fine until it recently started to surge and run only with choke mid to full. Any help from anyone? I completely cleaned every orifice and replaced all gaskets.
How many Jets are in that black plastic piece? Trying to figure out if I lost one or if I have it in the wrong place.
Is the spring on the throttle shaft supposed to keep the butterfly open or closed? You didn't show how you tensioned the spring on the shaft.
Just purchased a new carb. Installed it and I think I tried to start it about 3-4 times. It cranks but won’t start. The 5th time it just clicks. Battery good. So I took my screwdriver placed it across the solenoid contacts and she cranked. But still didn’t start. So I think I burnt out my solenoid trying to start it. So I need a solenoid now. But why didn’t my new carb start the mower? Maybe it takes time to prime it or maybe I flooded it trying to get it started?
Recently I got a beat to death mower with an 06 Briggs twin intek, early model. They had problems with the number 2 cylinder exhaust pushrod being ejected into the motor and wrapping around and taking the cam out. Briggs fixed it with new a new procedure, rocker clearances and rocker adjustment torque. I'd done dozens back in the day.
11 years out of warranty the customer authorized me to fix the cam, pushrods to and double head gaskets but not the carb. I emphatically emphasized that the carb needed to be at least cleaned since it had only been running on one cylinder and then sitting for a year, but NOPE! No carb work was authorized and it ran like shit and I'm the one to blame! It'll run lean on 2 and blow the head gasket. Not my fault.
True .....Its not your fault ......I have encountered the same problem time after time .......Your right and its foolish on there part not to have allowed you to perform the work. You seem very knowledgeable and I have no doubt that the work needed to be done . Expense is often the reason {of course the other is just blind absent minded stupidity } on the customers part ...I feel for you friend but hey you did try to do the right thing {Take pride in that }as often people try shade tree tactics to repair engines and screw over customers ........I am glad that you shared as its refreshing to see that there are others like me whom really just wont to do the right thing . Sadly there may be many things I or we can fix but stupid just will never be one.
i am having a tuff time on my L2548 twin scotts mower it surges hi and lo idle i have changed coils fuel pump vac hose plugs it starts with choke fine but soon surges i also have adjusted the gov when it is running the fuel filter also new does not seem to fill up like i would guess it should i can blow back it is not blocked what should i look for i put all new orings in just like you said any help would be appreated love the vid thanks tom
Tom ....I only wont to recommend you look for the following causes...first remove your valve covers and look for lose valve guides....next I would recommend you purchase a carb overhaul kit.......{ clean the passages in the carb as seen in my video } make sure carb cleaner is used to blow threw every passage....I would also recommend using a stream light to insure the passages are clear { the slightest obstruction in any passage will cause a surging issue ....} The o rings in my video are only used to secure the jets in the pickup assembly or pedestal . you must purchase a carb kit if additional gaskets were distorted. A great indication of valve guides that have moved is to remove the air cleaner element {filter and cover} .....Start the engine look for flash flaming threw the carbs air cleaner ......If flash flaming is evident then a new head and the proper gaskets will be required.... A leak down test will reveal witch cylinder has the issue . You can even do a compression check as often there can be a major difference in one cylinder from the next. How ever a leak down test is the required method. Last I recommend you replace your fuel lines { this can be a pain as often the deck must be removed to have access to the belly side of your mower..... intern.....providing a means to access the bottom of your tank ......Note a new fuel tank grommet may be required for the tank . I no this may seem a bit excessive but Fuel lines break down in about 2 to 3 years after most Equipment has been used or exposed to modern gasolines ....So I would recommend replacing them as they tend to become soft and break down internally providing rubber fragments to enter a carb causing a restriction . Clean passage of gas is imperative for a engine to preform correctly ....so just some friendly advice { purchase a new fuel filter as well} ....Briggs offers 2 I am aware of one being 75 micron and the other being 150 micron . Often clear ones are used with engines that have Diaphram fuel pumps ...{150 micron} I really hope this helps ....And Tom thanks for liking my video and being a respectful viewer. If I could be of any additional help please don't hesitate to ask.
I noticed you fitted only one gasket to the intake manifold and air cleaner. I recently bought the Briggs & Stratton 797890 Carburetor Overhaul Kit which come with a total of 6 gaskets. Could you tell me if only one on either side will do or do you need to fit all 6. If they all need to go on in what order should they befitted.
Great question/ on some of these carbs they made restrictor plates that would require the use of the additional gaskets ......now with that being said { Briggs was sued over lying about there HP ratings listed on there engines} Not because the engines were not power enough.....But because they were more powerful than what the stickers were identifying .....This really pissed other companies off and Briggs were forced to place restrictor plates to limit the Hp to appease the lawyers ......They even measure HP in gross torque now on some engines. But in all honesty you can remove your restrictor plate and have a engine that will run as originally designed { even have more power in most cases} ....2 gaskets are really all that is required .
Thanks mate.
Welcome...
My solenoid is sticky. Picked up this tractor and it’s been sitting a while. Gas is bad and varnished. Going to get some carb spray and hit the solenoid and see if it frees up. Good or bad idea??
Great idea just be cautious if you have the style that has the plastic or neopreane plunger on the end
Kevin Bolin It was the all metal version and it did work once I sprayed it. I’ll need to pull it back apart because I still have a hesitation. I don’t remember seeing jets in the black tube though..
Kevin,i have that older(late 90's) widebody (Murray) 17hp twin 42" and am looking for blades for it.Serial/model# is not readable.Any idea on which blades I need.The old ones I took off are beat to death so can't get an accurate measurement.Thanks for yourr help
Thanks for getting right back Kevin. I looked at mine today and noticed the gasket was installed correctly the triangular hole is a blind hole. I apologize. I bought a new e-bay $37.00 carburetor It was junk. Some of The 8 mounting holes didn't line up I had to drill them to get the long mounting screws through. The 90deg. fuel inlet tube on top snapped off when I was installing the fuel line. A Tech. that is now out of business worked on it a few years ago. He brought a complete Carb./ Manifold assembly to my garage and swapped it for me he also installed it. I don't think they are the correct setup for the 21.5hp Intek. I'm thinking maybe that is why the linkage is hitting? It mounted and ran good for a few years but I think that is my problem now. I'm thinking I will buy the correct assembly on e-bay. I'm following your video and trying to rebuild the present carb. The O ring on the retainer is way to big to fit onto the tube. I am waiting for a another one I just ordered. I hope it is the right one.
I have a B&S 22 hp Vtech and would like to know how you decide which gas jet goes left or right. They have engraved numbers 111 & 114. I can see one seems a little larger than the other if this would help in proper orientation. Much thanks for any help. I guess left and right is as you sit on the mower?
Partstree.com can often help with a issue like the one your having ..
What about the jets does the larger go on left or right mine are 115 and 117 numbers which does follow the parts list currently. there is an issue of the jets falling out on the Nikki Carb.
Great video. Thanks for taking the time.
At 2:50 installing the retainer, I need that o-ring. What is the part number of the kit you used, or the number for that o-ring? My kit didn't come with it.
hi Kevin: I hope you see this. I would like a response!! Really like your' vids. I have a simple question. At 9:19 am I wrong or did you put the gasket on upside down. I noticed a triangular vent hole in the inside of the carb and a round hole in the same location on the gasket. Just curios if they should line up?. I am attempting to rebuild my carburetor. You can buy a new carb for around $37.00 (I might do that) the price of the gasket set is the same or more depending who you buy from. Some times if you are lucky you can get a good carb. from Japan and just bolt it on. I have done that with singles (push mowers) A 5/32 socket will fit the 4 mounting bolts. Just saying,, :O) better than a pliers. One more curiosity thing, did you have to adjust the throttle/governor linkage when you reinstalled the Carb.? I noticed the governor link at the Carb. on mine is hitting the intake manifold would you know why? Maybe wrong manifold? Well have to go out and work on my Craftsman L1000. Thanks for the well done video!. Tool Man
Thank you for being a respectful viewer . I did have a look and seen why there was some confusion . But No the gasket was applied correctly . The gasket has two little tabs that protrude on each side of the fuel inlet once the carb is placed on the intake manifold . Note that some engines have restrictor plates that are applied between the carb and intake in this same location . On some of the newer style plastic intakes the linkage will make contact with a small portion of the manifold ....I really cant tell you why because in truth I cant provide a honest answer . What I have found is if one is very careful you can slightly bend the linkage to help avoid it from striking the intake manifold ....But be warned don't try to bend the linkage while it is installed .....remove and reinstall it each time you progressively make the bend to achieve clearance as you really shouldn't have to bend it very much . I have found that often the linkage just every so slightly makes contact and places light scratches or scaring on the intake so just a slight twist of the linkage will do the trick. { That little L shaped bend can be a pain }as to just the way it has to be applied to the carb. Though it is rare you may need to adjust the governor control arm and I provide a video on how to do that as well.
Kevin, thanks for the video. I have that same carb on a huskvarna mower with a 26 hp Briggs. It has always been hard to start when cold, since they day I bought it. It has to crank for a long time before it finally starts, but once it is warmed up it starts instantly. I have even resorted to starting fluid a couple of times. I plan to take the carb apart soon to check that little nozzle gasket with the 4 tiny holes, but was wondering if you have any other ideas. I have tried putting the throttle in different positions when trying to start it cold and it seems to have no effect. If you shut it off after it has been running for awhile, with the throttle set to high, it will not start again unless you let it sit for a few hours or pull the plugs to dry out the cylinders.
You said hard to start initially .....And once started and allowed to warm up it behaves as intended.......This is very concerning to me .......You could be encountering a issue that has progressively gotten worst .......Often this issue could be a moving valve guide in your cylinder head ........These valve guides can move due to the heat as well as friction from carbon that glazes valve stems allowing the valve guides to move as valve springs apply pressure as there intended to do . I have encountered this many times on V twin Briggs Intecs . You see once your lucky enough to get the engine running the alum retaining the valve guide can expand there for the valve stem and valve guide can move up and down in the valve guides respective intended area to be retained.......{The alum head}.....This dosent become and issue intel you turn off the engine and allow the engine to cool ......Now the valve guide could be moving just enough to affect valve clearance or Lash { another words not allowing the valve face to make contact with the valve seat in the head } This can cause a real headache for the person encountering this issue as on some instances the engine may restart repeatedly .....Then may require excessive cranking of the engine to restart it ..........I recommend first checking your choke on your carb to insure it is not remaining closed once confirmed then removing the valve covers ......CAREFULLY inspect the valve guides / make absolutely sure they are equal in comparison {both Intake and Exhaust} .........Check both cylinder heads ........Often you can perform a simple test once the engine is cold to determine a valve guide issue ......simply remove your air cleaner and try to start the engine if you encounter flash flaming threw the carb or a fluttering with kick back on the starter you have a issue with your valves or valve guides in a small engine . Do not be tempted to pean a valve guide back into place as often this problem will just resurface once again ......Purchase a new cylinder head if you have guides that have moved . Note if you do not have a issue with your valve guides there are two small jets in the pick up tube or pedestal in your carb that are likely the issue as the gasoline will distort them causing a issue of flooding cylinders by means of the carb under running conditions.
@@kevinbolin7665 I should have been more forceful when it was under warranty, I took it back and they said there was nothing wrong with it. I may get rid of it and cut my losses. A mover that cost that much shouldnt have issues from day one. I have lived with it for going on 3 years now. I doubt the jets are distorted as I bought it new. It seems to have good compression cold, and the choke is fine. It just seems like it isnt getting any fuel when starting it cold.
great stuff, i was just going to do my nikki carb and i am glad i came across your vid . you saved me a whole lot of headaches because there was a lot of the little things that i would of missed, and its the little things that gives you the headaches. what carb kit would be best to get because there are some with less parts in them?
Very detailed information. Thank you for sharing 👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼
Thanks / glad it helped....
Question. I see this carb is the new style. I want to buy a new carb for my cub cadet tractor. Will this carb replace the old style carburetor? Or are they different?
Yes / It will fit . But match the new carb to the comparable hp of your engine intended as jetting is slightly different depending on the cubic inch displacement of various twin cylinder OHV engines.
My carb has an automatic choke.Do you guys ever show updated videos or do you still live in 2016?
Often we try to cater to the masses . This can be difficult because of self entitled pricks whom stereotypically assume because we are Techs that we offer a plethora of videos to indulge them with . When in reality it would be damned near imposable to make a video for every piece of equipment we have had to contend with. I recommend you advocate a more positive attitude and maybe then perhaps we might provide the content you so desperately seek .
Thanks for you professional experience on this thanks for sharing enjoyed
Your very welcome.....Thank you for being a respectful viewer ...
What exactly does that afterfire solenoid do? I have to pour gas into the intake to get the engine to fire but once it burns off that gasoline the engine dies. Fuel pump is working in fuel is flowing to the carburetor so it's getting fuel to the carburetor but somewhere after that I have a problem. Engine has 10 hours on it.
Only 10 hours on it / Friend Take it back to the dealer ....It sounds like a warranty issue.. But just a quick answer to the after fire solenoid question ... It is a safety valve that prevents gasoline from reaching the transfer tubes jets{cutting off the fuel supply when there is no voltage supplied to it.} A weak battery can cause a engines after fire to malfunction ....even heat up ...if the stator {alternator] is constantly fighting to charge a weak battery as well as supply voltage to activate the Anti after fire solenoid. Some people are tempted to cut the tips off the anti after fire solenoid ....It will eliminate the activation problem but can cause the muffler to blow off if there is un burned gases that build up in the muffler . So I don't recommend it as a practice on a new engine or any customers .
good video yes lurned a lot thanks
I know this was 4 years ago but hoping you or someone can help. Where can I find the gaskets for the plastic intake manifold or a part number?
Partstree.com .....Just provide the Model ,Type, and code found on your engines valve cover .
Where do you get spring for carb.
Hey pardner, how about telling me where to get the parts fo
r this carburetor. I've been trying to get the parts for days and no luck.
hey kev, I have a john deere 717A zturn mower, powered by a Kawa FH601v 4 cycle 19 HP engine. The carb # is 150037114 NIIKI carb. Was having issues with the carb either flooding or not getting enough fuel when trying to start. I had JD run it through their electronic cleaner, I installed the new gaskets they sold me and mounted it back on the engine. I also installed all new fuel lines AND a new vaccume fuel pump. You can crank on it all day with no start. I have gas in the float bowl but no start, I added a new fuel filter no start, you can add gas directly into the carb and it will start and run fine. I'm at a loss here have you got any suggestions ??? Please.
These carbs are terrible for collecting varnished old fuel when the fuel starts to break down ...Sadly in most cases the passages internal to the carbs just cant be cleaned once this effect has taken its toll on the carb ...Truly the only advice I can give you would be to purchase a new carb { sadly they are very expensive } I have encountered this model on other pieces of equipment as well with the Kaw engine . Sonic cleaners are your best bet to clean one of these carbs...... {only in truth }....... that I have found effective . But most people don't own a sonic cleaner so In your situation I will recommend getting a pot and putting water as well as dawn dish soap in it and boiling the carb for at least 3 hours ......Recently I have done this on two engines I have repaired and they seem to be doing fine ......Still its just a 50/50 shot for success ........As I said the sonic cleaner is best . I wish you the best of luck and the method provided has only worked on two carbs out of three .........So if you wont to take the chance it could pay off and no damage will be done to the carb or parts because its basicly just soap and water ...Just remove the bowl gasket, float and inlet needle valve so the heat of the rolling boiling water dosent affect them.. The rolling boil of the water will expand the alum carb enough to break down the varnished gasoline and could open the passages that are causing the restriction .
Thanks Kevin, I'll give the boiling treatment a try. Thank you for responding.
Thanks for the video. This is going to help me a lot. Can you tell me if there is a rebuild kit that contains all the needed parts? I'm having a hard time finding what I need. Thanks again.
David ....on your valve cover you will find some numbers indicating a model ,type and code ......Provide me those numbers and I will help you .....on some engines the numbers are on the blower housing as a alternative place to look . Also Partstree.com is a great place to look up the parts .....But I don't mind to help so please just provide me those numbers and Ill get back to you with the proper repair kit needed .
Kevin Bolin Model 407777
type 0131 E1
code 041104YG
thanks for the help.
I have found for this model 3 types of carbs / the most popular kit was used on a Nikki carb part number 797890,alternative numbers for other kits include 792455 and 792456 sadly the jets will not come in the kits and the jets will have to be identified by the etched number in the brass.
Kevin Bolin it loos like 111 and 114 on the Jets.
These are great videos. Is this likely the same type of Nikki Carb that is on my Kawasaki FH500V? It looks similar but I havent taken it off yet.
Similar yes / but not quite the same...
Thanks for the info. I'll be watching your videos as I'm going through my carb.
I have a model #917.272910 craftsman tractor with a 20hp v twin that runs wide open when the engine is running i can take my finger to where the governor linkage attacks to the card and manualy throttle it down but as soon as i take my finger of the linkage falls straight to wide open any ideas?
governor is broke or out of adjustment..
Help! I can't find "worshers" on Amazon!
im having a problem with mine it spits gas out the top of the carb and wont start. i had the carb apart and cleaned it but it still does the same. any ideas of what could be wrong?
Valve guides will have moved/ You will have to check if it is cylinder 1 or 2 ......its typically cylinder 2 ......Remove the valve covers and inspect the valve guides . If you have flash flaming or a fluttering loud popping sound coming from the engine after start up..... and once the air filter is removed you can see or hear this as your result ........I can assure you that a valve guide has moved .....However {very rare} you could have a dead spark on one of the cylinders........This to will cause excessive gas to spit from a carb........Note that there is a diode in the kill switch wire from one coil to the next so unplug each coil before condemning it . {check for spark from each coil with the kill switch wire removed from each ......you will find a terminal on each coil {armature} just under the body of each coil........If each coil provides you with a spark then plug the kill switch wires back in and check for spark on each coil once again......I have found that the diode in the kill wire lead can go bad only allowing spark to be made on one cylinder causing excessive gas to spit from a carb . Lastly in most cases if the engine just wont start at all check your safety switches including the Power take off for the electric clutch . Theses switches often are the problem.....The engine may turn over but just wont fire up......And continued cranking of the engine will cause the carbs intake to accumulate excessive amounts of gas even making it hard for the engine to eventually turn over.{grunting or wining} will eventually burn up the starter or solenoid. There are many ways to go about the problem you are having with your mower ......Personally I would check to see if I was getting spark to each of my cylinders first ......Then if I was I would remove my valve covers and inspect those valve guides just because I have seen so many move causing problems such as this. But as I said earlier if you have no spark Check those safety switches and the kill wire from coil to coil with the hidden diode in it.
What dose the jet do on solenoid ?
Hi Kevin, great video. I'm rebuilding the same card and this video will help a lot. Could you please leave a link to the place you ordered your parts. I think you said McMaster, but the only one I could find was in overseas. Thank you.
Yes it is Mcmaster carr .com
Good tips.
Hey Kevin, love your video and very helpful. Wondering if you can help me, bought a used LA135 John Deere Briggs OHV V-twin from my brother in law but when he sold it to me he said to spray starter fluid in it when first starting. Well after using it that way last season it started but toward the end it wouldn’t start turned over but won't ignite. Was going to remove carburetor after watching your video but thought you could shed some light on my issue. Thanks any help at all would be greatly appreciated. By the way my brother in law said he worked on it but no telling what he did to it. Jake.
I have been in this situation many times LoL....You most likely have a clogged carb as well as faulty rubber gaskets witch are really the norm for these carbs to develop after about 2 to 3 years .....There is really no way to avoid theses problems { Stabile fuel additives } seems to help....But in honesty really isn't going to stop the effect of modern gasoline on the rubber components . I would recommend you remove the carb / clean it very meticulously. Find the model, type ,and code often found on the valve cover and purchase the proper rebuild kit from Partstree.com ........alternatively I use Tulsa Engine Warehouse as often once you have sourced your parts threw partstree {and have the kit numbers} Tulsa Engine Warehouse is fare more cheaper and still offer the kit as a OEM part. Be very careful when removing the float bowl as there are often two jets pressed into the fuel pick up or transfer tube. What I often do is color code each on top with a permanent marker /Note that each one is slightly different and must go back in there respected place. They can fall out very easily so it is recommended that you remove the carb and float bowl always facing up exposing the two screws that retain it facing you as you look down upon them. And be very diligent about the placement of these two jets trust me it is imperative to do so on most of theses engines{ there is a difference in each of the jets } I realize that there are often times one might assume that these jets are just fine and wouldn't have to be touched as long as they seem to be retained in the transfer tube ......but this is truly hardly the case at all ......I highly recommend using the small o rings I recommended from Mc master carr .......They seem to do a great job as a replacement for the deteriorating o rings that I am certain most would find on each of these press in jets. Note also that these jets come in many different sizes so it can be a real pain to even source the part numbers as well as there respected placement in the fuel transfer.....So that's why I always replace each one {preferable one at a time} color coded as I recommend earlier . I really hope this information helps ......This can be a hard repair ......But I am confident you can fix your likely carb problem with the purchase of a carb overhaul kit and those small o rings from MC mastercarr .If I can be of any additional help I am just a reply away.
thanks for all you detailed info. I will do all as you have said and report back.thanks once again! Jake.
jmercado4 I went through the exact same thing last weekend but I ended up installing a new carb bought from amazon for $132. Reason was, the kit was $75 and my LA145 is 8 yrs old now. I will have the old carb "detailed" as shown in the video and save it for when this new one goes out. I hope these 2 cents help!
@@kevinbolin7665 Hi man, thank you very much for "solving" my Intek/Nikki mystery about different colors on sparkplug tips ;-) One fine colored dark-grey, one "light"-black/"oily".. Tested how this eventually occured during oil-consumption, but NO issues has been found, ever!
Just disovered (after disassembling, in microscope) left and right jet has different sizes(?!), and too, in IPL-chart, they showed to have different numbers, "left" & "right" too.
Do you know the main reason for these different sizes? Some (Briggs-)documentation? One cylinder, with the smallest jet, is the most lowered, and this one burns fine dark-grey color :-)
Considering to get a bit smaller jet for the "upper" cylinder.....??? And - of course - checking combustion, temperature, exhaust debris, and plug color!
Looking forward for your comments - if you're still on channel...
Hey pardner, how about telling me where to get the parts for this carburetor. I've been trying to get the parts for days and no luck.
Leo & Dan Ryan Look Up Taryl Fixes All He Is The Best He Tell you Step By Step How To Fix and Give You The Part Numbers How and Where To Get All The Parts You Need This Dude Here Is a Fly By Night Dude All The Things He Mention That Dosent Work Is Wrong They Do Work Cause ive Done Them More Times That He Is Old
Thank You !
Very helpful video i wish you put the link below from where you buying the parts thanks keep up the good work
Mc Master Carr....
That's great, but how the heck do you remove it from the engine? Not one video shows how to do that.
Well it depends on the equipment .....Most mowers will require the blower housing and fan guard {dust screen } to be removed .Once this is done you may have a heat deflector for a muffler .....Then last ....just make sure you unplug the anti after fire solenoid from its plug ....This will expose the 3/8 bolts that hold the intake on allowing you to have some what easy access to remove them.
Thank you for sharing! 😉🖒
Welcome/ glad you found the video helpful.
Helpful!
I need a completely new Nikki v twin carb for my 21 hp motor and I cannot find them anywhere where could I either order one or ho buy one brand new need help ASAP
Sorry for such a long time to make a reply / just seen your question .....I personally just look up my parts on Parts Tree.Com then once I have my numbers I spend a little time on ebay . Briggs engines have a model /type /and code ....with this information you should be able to look up the carb that fits your engine .
FANTASTIC VIDEO! bEST IF THE BEST! TY TY TY!
Can you leave a link for the viton o ring
Random thought: Magnetizing screwdrivers works great for those of us with large hands or tremors.
Also, using Japanese JIS screwdrivers (made to ft Japanese-style screws) helps.
Thanks / you make a excellent point....
Do you have a part supplier that you recommend for rebuild kits . Especially for the Nikki carbs
what is the part number for the retainer o ring please
thanks for the reply i have put carb in a gallon can of carb cleaner for hour or so when i am cutting with the mower engaged it seen to run fine i have went through valves they were at .004 ex is at .005 i can take the filter out and find no sighns of flashing or backfire when it is at idle it seems to pop out of exhaust but as soon as you rev it up it stops and runs good the surg is not as noticeable at full throttle and seems to go away but runs strong i have watched your vidieo and try to do it the way you say i think it is in carb the motor runs good mid range also no issues there but like i said at idle and full throttle but not too noticeable at full and it runs strong so my question is fifty bucks for rebuild kit or one hundred for new carb thanks for your detailed answer again love your detail hellllllllllllllp hahahahahah
Well / in truth I would try the kit ....
Did I miss something but what about the swirl plate projections ?
Swirl plate projections ? could you tell me where this is ? bit confused as to what you maybe talking about I even looked up a engine so I could see a parts break down .
when I bought my carb kit it came with a few different gaskets including one "swirl plate projection" . I have replaced my old one with this and I was surprised that it was not in your video.I can send you a couple photos dont know if I can do that here but if you email me at portabella@shaw.ca I can forward the diagram that came with the carb kit showing this gasket.
go here : www.smallenginesuppliers.com/shop/html/images/small_engines/briggs/parts/carburetors/593392.jpg
@@marcogag Just looking threw so old comments and came across this one ...I see perfectly what you mean ….forgive my ignorance …...The swirl plate although provided isn't essential …..it gets applied after the carbs mounting gasket ….In truth engineers would have you believe that this plate swirls the gas to air mixture …..However in truth it actually restricts air flow ……Briggs was actually sued over lying about HP ratings and then started stating gross torque on there engines . They devised a plan to make certain engines with more hp rather than less and sale them to various companies to avoid having to make a certain cubic inch engine . I personally think this was a great idea …..I mean who would complain having more for less {right}…….Honda.....Kaw.....and Kohler to just name a few ...So briggs was under the gun so to speak …..And after much debate they devised a restrictor plate to limit air to gas ratios from entering the engines lowering the Hp just enough to keep lawyers from cashing in . You see it wasn't that the engines wasn't powerful enough......rather wasn't fair for the other companies whom actually invested in molding and or casting of the actual engines that where true to the cubic inch displacement . So restrictors on some of the older Intecs where not imperative rather a obligation …..Often removing them can even increase HP .
Great video!!
Thanks / glad you enjoyed .....viewers like you make it worth the time and effort .
Thanks a ton, sir.
Yes very helpful thank you
Hey Kevin, sorry to bother you again but I'm having a difficult time finding the correct o-ring at Mc Mastercarr. I think I found it but it but would like to verify and ask if this info is correct. Especially the item number? I found
Chemical-Resistant Viton® Fluoroelastomer
O-Ring, 1 mm Wide,2.5 mm ID
item # 9263K546
Yes / this info is correct ....just apply a little motor oil to each before pressing them into the fuel transfer tube.{ note a small allen key makes for a great tool to press them back into place.} often you can hear a soft click when they are in place.
Do you have the part # for the o-rings
I just bought a 20 horse v twin with this carb on it ...it would start and die a second later i tore it apart and cleaned everything put it back on it runs now but surges at high idle under a load say with the deck engaged.....think it might just need a total rebuild?
It could / Question? did you purchase the engine second handed? If so I would tell you to check your fuel filter and fuel pump ....They could be partially clogged .....A weak fuel pump can cause this as Briggs fuel pumps act off of a diaphragm principle to achieve the fuel that gets delivered to the carb ...Check the pulse hose that connects to the fuel pump and valve cover......Also I would ask you before you tackle this to run the engine about 3 min with the air cleaner and cover removed { look for flash Flaming from the carb or a popping sound following a miss } this can indicate several things ......For example a bent push rod, loose valves that need adjusting ,The ever so often loose valve guide that moves when the engine is warm. Rocker arm stud backing out......Also quick note here {Check your coils for fire} On most these models there is a diode between the two coils and if it gos bad that will cause a V Twin to Surge as one cylinder may not be firing and there is a increase in gasoline ........Often this can be diagnosed by simply taking a small spray bottle full of water and spraying the area around the two exhaust manifold pipes mating surfaces {engine to manifold}.
I took it all back apart again and did a better cleaning on it and it runs great now! Your video helped me out because i didnt clean the ports as good as i thought the first time....i used a wire from a bread tie (stripped) and ran it through all the ports and jets...also the vacuum tube from the pump is shot its a straight one about 1 1/2 inchs long if you know where i can get one new that would be great! Thanks man!
Parts tree.com would be a great place to look for the part / just look on your valve cover for model ,type and code .
ok thanks man!
Your welcome....
Just found this video. How do I find the first one?
Just click on my name and you will be taken to my channel .....From there just click the video you wish to see in my listings .
Thank you
What's a sedaloid?
Whats the purpose of this rhetorical question ?
Very, very good video ! Helped me a lot ! (:
what is a "setaloid" please?
I understand perfectly now; thank you. Now if I could just get the damn thing RUNNING!
Perhaps I can help / How is the mower behaving ? Dose it try to run at all ? What normally prevents these v twin engines from running is bent pushrods, valve guides that move ,or in most cases a carb that has endured the affect of old fuel that causes them to break down internal parts that are made of neoprene rubber or viton .. So sadly you may need to purchase a carb rebuild kit for your engine ... Most people will encounter surging of the engine if there is a carb issue . Or if a pushrod is bent {flash flaming threw the carb } this effect can be determined by removing the air cleaner cover and air filter and watching for light blue flames that crackle and pop out of the carb. Note that a valve guide that has became loose and moved can have this affect as well so if you are being tormented by this effect make sure you check for bent pushrods and for a moved valve guide once you remove the valve covers .
i'll Stick with Taryl Fixes All He's the Best
He has very informative videos ...No doubt
You can get a rebuild kit for this carb here...www.ebay.com/itm/174119875401
Afterfire solenoid? Sounds like your saying afterfarste setaloid lol
Kevin gonin sr great videos stop apologizing
Thank you its nice to receive compliments such as yours. It makes a person feel there time was wisely invested in the making of the video .
hey kevin is the oring part number from mccmastercarr 9263k546 1x2.5 4.5mm od
Yes...
how do you tell what side they go in i have measured them with calipers an all.they dont have numbers
If they don't have numbers ....I really couldn't say ....Sadly you may have to try by trial and error. I have had to do this my self more than once or twice.
I think I have located the main jets I need only eReplacementParts.com Only problem is the description of the jets don't tell which is the right jets and the left jet. The part #'so as far as I can tell is this Part # 842627 is the Right Jet and Part# 792296 is the Left Jets. If you could recheck my search to see if I am correct I would really appreciate it. Sorry for my lack of knowledge I am new to fixing small engines all around. Thank you for your assistance and the great videos.
Yes gladly but first I need the model of the Briggs engine ,Type, and lastly the code ....They are found on the blower housings as well as one of the valve covers on some engines.
Sorry about that ....you provided the numbers ....I will look it up and get back to you.
It's pronounced "Nick-EEE" not Nick-eye......brother you have got to be a Yankee. All them R's in your words. LOL (no offense intended, all my in-laws are Yankees)
You have a very informative video. However, you continually distract me when you cal the Solenoid (sol-in-oid) a setaloid. Please learn to say it correctly.
Thankyou ….Comprehension is and was the premise . My ability or even inability to say the word solenoid dosent excuse ones ability to gather a solid relative perspective upon what was being projected . So I ask respectfully ,,,,with how perceptively acute you are is stereotyping this situation essential to find clarity?
@@kevinbolin7665 Absolutely not!!! I actually brought it up not to demean but to be like Taryl, you obviously knew what you were saying and how you said it but "You have a very informative video."