Top 10 Tips for your Voron and Klipper
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 7 ม.ค. 2022
- It's been one month since I completed my Voron 2.4. During that time I've learned a few things that improved my prints and general use of the printer. I've combined 10 of these for this video. Some of these will apply to any core-xy printer and other Voron models as well. Some of these might apply to any printer running Klipper. These have all proven useful to me.
Links:
Print Tuning Guide: github.com/AndrewEllis93/Prin...
Improved Heat Sinks: amzn.to/3HndIsc
Green ABS used in the printer shown: amzn.to/3LGHCdO
I receive commissions from Amazon purchases that contribute to content creation on this channel.
Or
The military green, white ABS and black ASA filament: www.paramount-3d.com/?ref=o45...
Printer.cfg text:
Plot RPi temp:
[temperature_sensor raspberry_pi]
Pi Temps
sensor_type: temperature_host
max_temp: 100
Plot MCU temp:
[temperature_sensor mcu_temp]
Spider Temps
sensor_type: temperature_mcu
max_temp: 100
Have the controller fans turn on on any initial motor move:
[controller_fan controller_fan]
Controller fan - FAN2 Connector
pin: PB2
max_power: 0.90
off_below: 0.10
kick_start_time: 0.5
heater: heater_bed, extruder
stepper: stepper_x, stepper_y, stepper_z
Exhaust Fan:
[fan_generic exhaust_fan]
Exhaust fan - In E2 OUT Positon
pin: PB3
max_power: 1.0
Instagram: / kapmansbasementworkshop - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
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Invaluable tips here. Even for those of us who don't own a Voron. Now my Klipper bedlsinger shows MCU and host temp. Thanks, brother.
Glad to help! Thanks for the comment!
I'm just starting to read about Voron 2.4 printer characteristics. This video is an excellent example of important tips clearly presented in full detail without a lot of rambling repetition that makes some other video tutorials almost unbearable. Really great advice presented with high quality video, audio, narration, and content! Subscribed.
Thank you very much!
Every single one of these tips helped me out in some way. I didn't necessarily set everything up the exact same way, but this video taught me how to get them the way I wanted. Thanks, Kapman!
Glad it helped! Thank you for watching!
Very helpful. I had some of your issues with my V2.2658 , too. And a lot of tricks I did not know of. Thank you very much!
I'm glad it was helpful! Thank you!
Amazing Job! These Straight to the point easy to understand videos unlike some confusing ones out there and it enabled me to further enhance my Voron 2.4 easy in depth instructions! Keep Them Coming.....Subscribed!
Thank you very much!
This was very helpful. Thank you so much.
I'm glad it was helpful. Thank you very much for watching.
Great video, Valuable information. Thanks for making this video.
Glad it was helpful! Thank you for the comments and watching!
Hi, one thing to remember with the filtered exhaust fan is that while you print with it off, your printer is not air-tight... so any nasty fumes you are afraid of will slowly seep out during the print. By having the exhaust fan on during the print, it creates a negative pressure inside the enclosure. This theoretically prevents that unfiltered air from seeping through openings and sucks clean air into the case from those openings instead as the unclean air is exhausted by the filtered fan. :)
That is very true. But it also seemed to cause trouble with some of my larger ABS prints. I ended up building Nevermore and have installed it. It works great and eliminates all the odor while circulating the air. I highly recommend it. Thank you for watching!
@@KapmansBasementWorkshop I would think the proper way to run the exhaust fan would be to limit the maximum chamber temperature to some value, keeping it constant. Too high or varying chamber temperature is a problem.
@@alanb76 I agree. At some point I'll get to making that change!
The fume hype is overblown
@@powersv2 Probably, but since I really do print in my basement, my family really does not like the smell of ABS fumes that pour off that printer when it's printing at 350mm/s....it a lot of fumes....
Great Video! Thanks for the tips!
Glad it was helpful! Thank you for watching!
Very usefull tips!
Thanks for sharing
Thanks for watching
Very helpful, thanks for sharing! It would be even more useful if you could add your config code to the description of the video, so we can just copy and paste it and not make any mistakes. Thanks for the your help!
I think I got all the additional text from the printer cfg file. Check the description above. Let me know if I'm missing anything. Thanks!
A note on Raspberry Pi temps, max for the SOC is 85C and the ethernet port can handle up to 70C.
Thanks for that information. It does not even get close to that....
Brilliant tips! Thanks for sharing ;)
Thank you very much!
I've been running the same smooth PEI sheet for years, and have had to sand, steel wool, acetone, etc to improve adhesion. One thing is to use brass wool, steel wool leaves steel fragments which the magnets get a hold of, and the bits also rust, so avoid steel. Brass wool or stainless steel scrubbers solve this, however a better solution is Aquanet extra hold unscented hairspray. Now I just periodically clean the steel sheet and put a light mist of Aquanet over it. Then I print on it with PLA, PETG or TPU. I haven't tried ABS on it but have read that it works there too. No more sanding, no more cleaning between prints at all (just don't contaminate the surface with finger oil, never touch it, use tools only). The misting only needs to be done occasionally, not between each print. It seems to renew the surface of the PEI. I would make sure the Aquanet is fresh before TPU because it wants to over-adhere. PETG does also, but to a lesser degree. Water dissolves Aquanet so cleanup is just rinsing off the plate with water, very little IPA is needed for a final wipe down. Then a fresh mist coat of Aquanet and back to printing. Some dust may adhere but it doesn't affect print surface quality.
Aquanet on pei, this is new to me. I have used glue stick on pei and windex when printing petg on pei. I need to try this. I also need to get some brass wool. Thank you very much for the tips!
Hey, just wanted to point out that the z steppers for me were super noisy and rattled the entire printer. Since its 4 motors running the gantry i set the run current to 1A and the hold to .5, as well as setting stealth chop to 5000. The z noise is almost gone, and print quality improved due to no extra resonance.
I didn't really bother too much with z because I assumed those motors rarely run and I was worried about making sure they hold position. But the z motors are spending a lot of time holding and they move such small distances, most of the time, that high speed and acceleration on z don't do much to speed up a print. Stealth chop and reduced current make a lot of sense. I'm getting ready to try stealth chop somewhere, z seems like the right place to start. Thank you for the tip!
While having more contact area with the stepstick is better, the thickness of the fins is a drawback. The thicker the fins, the more heat they retain, where as the thinner, the more room you have to fit more fins, meaning more surface area which leads to more heat transfer.
That makes sense. But I think the extra fins with the extra surface area can expel more heat. I think fins of copper would also be better than aluminum as it's a better conductor. These controller chips create so much heat, I still need the fans on full speed. Thank you for the comments and watching!
The only thing with increasing the microsteps is you exponentially increase the workload of the MCU. Going from 16 to 64 quadruples the instructions sent and processed every second (or millisecond? I forget) which taxes the processor. On lower end boards and/or weaker PI alternatives this might be an issue.
Food for thought.
I am aware of this. But even with my MCU being a spider v1.0, I have not run into issues yet. But there are people that are switching to much faster MCU's to reach ultra high speeds. I've got other issues I want to resolve first! Thank you!
This is awesome, thank you. My Blurolls just arrived, so the timing is perfect ☺️
I hope this will prove useful!
Great well presented video. Im about to start my voron build shortly, handy to know all this.
In same situation. Voron kit to be built shortly. Appreciate the video, well done.
I hope some of this makes both your builds better. Thank you for watching.
Thanks! very nice addition to the Voron/Klipper setup!
Glad you like it!
@@KapmansBasementWorkshop especially the thingy with the motors / vibration noises like what could be done at some point 👍🏻
@@dijkstw2 Thank you!
Really like the MCU temperature and raspberry pi temps. Will implement this tomorrow. I also added a small heatsync to the MCU I had floating around.
I'm suprize the stepper drivers don't have thermal sensors in them.
I jammed a external thermometer in the fins of X A motor and the E extruder. Wish the octopus allowed more sensors.
Can't wait no make my own mods video
A few days after this video, I also added a heatsink to the MCU. Then I took the old heatsinks and added them to the Pi. Adding those temps to the view on Fluidd or Mainsail is super easy! I look forward to your video!
very well done, thank you for this! points me in the right direction just a day before building my new 2.4 will be finished 🙂
Glad I could help! Congratulations on the build!
Rather than using the exhaust fan software mod you have used, you might want to consider an internal circulating filter like the nevermore mod to continually filter the odor without the exterior temperature swing.
It's a great tip. I plan on doing so sometime soon. Thank you!
Very thorough, thanks!
Very welcome!
Great video. My screws were also too long! I have one of the first blurolls kits with pretty bad beds - I alleviated the problem by using pei tape on the low spots on top of the magnet.
When you look at my bed mesh in the video, does that compare to yours?
@@KapmansBasementWorkshop Yes! It looks just like your fixed mesh! So if you slide the slider up to hide the low areas they turn black, this is where you put your first piece of tape. I have many :( The only part of this kit I really regret installing is the bed, but it can be alleviated this way.
@@alvarogil7953 Thank you for that information. Seems I need to consider my next steps in this area.
fantastic video, thank you.
Glad you enjoyed it!
Thanks! for sharing... Very useful 👌
I'm glad it's been useful for you. Thanks!
Thank you. So much clear information and right to the point. I hope to use that when my Voron be assembled (waiting some parts now). Because of the costs I decided to buy separate parts instead of kit and this will take time.
I'm happy you found this helpful and and wish you an enjoyable build!
Thanks!
Thank you for watching!
great video
I was wondering why I do not have warp issue with ABS, then at number 4, I saw the problem with the exhaust fan, mine is not connected.
I will probably add a nevermore filter
That makes sense. I really don't use that exhaust fan anymore. I should probably remove it and replace it with something else. Thanks for watching!
@@KapmansBasementWorkshop nevermore seems the solution
I know this flys the face of 3d printer bed adhesion convention but in my not insignificant experience, PEI just isn't that great with ABS. We've gone over it on reddit ad nauseum but others have had the same experience - where plain stainless steel (flex plate with pei removed) and a little hairspray works exceptionally well for just about everything, especially ABS. In fact, I use hairspray AS the print surface now. I clean the steel in the sink with a scrubby and dish soap, dry it, and then soak the surface in hairspray and then heat the bed to set it and get it to dry. It leaves a perfectly clear, tacky surface that, after a print, is refreshed with a subsequent light touch up with hairspray. After many, many prints, just hit it with hot water from the sink and it all comes off.
I've never tried the hair spray technique. But you have me interested. I have an old damaged PEI bed. I'll try to remove the PEI, clean the steel sheet and give this a try. Do you have a favorite hair spray?
You earned my subscribe with this one. It's great!
Thank you!
Thanks for alll you cool Videos with the voron! I started with 3D Printing 3 month ago and I just finished my own Voron 2.4 last week. Talking about microsteps: If you have 64 with an 0.9 Angle motor. Means that I have to do 128 Microsteps for my 1.8 Angle Motor (Moons - Formbot-Kit)?
You should experiment a little. There is a tradeoff with microsteps. The higher the microsteps, the less torque the motor has to do actual work and I think maximum speed drops a bit as well. You only want to use the amount of microsteps that you really need. I believe the Vorons are geared enough to where on x, y and z you don't need a 0.9 stepper. Try 16 microsteps and if you like, try 32 and see if you can visually tell the difference on a print. I don't think you will be able to. So then go with what is more quiet while providing the best performance. Thank you very much for the kind words and for watching!
@@KapmansBasementWorkshop Thanks alot!!! The motors I have for x y z are 1.8 degrees. I put them now on 1.2 run_current like you in one of your videos. Max_accel is set to 5100 after doing input shaper. Do you think the higher the microsteps the less noisy it will be?
@@Tenebray84 Check on the motors to make sure they are not getting too hot. Too hot and they will melt the ABS they are mounted to. I would try 16, 32 and 64 and listen for the differences and make your choice. I think it depends on your motors.
super helpful THANK YOU, I have one question: I notice your motor is Insulation Class H, the one I got is Class B ( my setting goes like this [ run_current: 0.5 sense_resistor: 0.110 ] I have no Hold current specified, and wondered if the issue you face is related to the exact motor you got ?!
Good question, I did not notice that previously. While I would like the motor to have a higher rating for durability reasons and long life in a hot environment (I did not even know about this when I purchased it) at class B, it should be able to support 130c and the interior of this printer should not be going above 60c or 65c. In addition, getting close to 130c certainly means the motor life is greatly reduced. Hitting 130c or above, or having a class H hitting 180c implies the ABS of the print head is most likely going to fail which I think is the biggest issue of concern in this printer. I'm sure with the heat the resistance in the motor goes up which just makes it hotter faster. It's this last item I don't fully understand with the different temp classes as I think it's just a difference in winding insulation and motor durability, but I may be wrong. In either class motor, I think the current needs to be limited no matter what to keep the motor running cool and keep the print head in solid form. And I think it's super important in an enclosed printer vs an open one. I need to investigate this more with my next print head and motor. Thank you for this tip and thank you for watching!
@@KapmansBasementWorkshop Thank you for your great Videos ... I did adjust the current to up to 1.2 gradually from 0.5 , and the x y motors went so silent ..i love it .. i just notice sometimes they slightly buzz when they hold positions at home x175 y175 .. not sure if this is normal . in anyway am super happy with the new setting ..BIG THANK YOU.
@@omranello Please make sure your fans are blowing over those driver chips at full speed and keeping them cool so they don't burn out. And consider a heat sink improvement for those chips. I'm very glad this helped you out! Thank you for watching!
Also, I'm not sure about the buzz.
nice one) regarding temps not all mcu supports temps) so for some you need to get the separate thermistor) for pressure advanced yep i did like for marlin linear advance)
Thanks for the feedback
Thanks for this--some really great info! My motors were crazy whiny in default settings so hopefully this helps..
I hope it helps your motors as well. Thank you!
Hi! Rodrigo from Brazil here.Thanks for these videos, they are helping me a lot! I would love to know where I can get this car side piece 'connector cover'. The original part is too small for my connectors. Can you tell me if it is possible for me to buy or download this part? Thank you very much and congratulations for your professional content!
I believe you are referring to this: www.teamfdm.com/files/file/354-pcb-cover/
Thanks for watching!
@@KapmansBasementWorkshop perfect! Thank you!
Is 17:10 also possible to do in config file with something like an if statement: if(printDone){exhaustFanOn}?
Just finished my 2.4 build but totally new to klipper
Yes, you can. The script used is called "jinja2" if you wish to look it up. A conditional looks like this:
{% if home_all or 'X' in params %}
_HOME_X
{% endif %}
I pulled that from one of my klipper cfg files.
Hi. I have a question. Is it possible with klipper to do the auto bad leveling with the nozzle probe ? thanks Markus
It certainly is. I'll be releasing a video on that in the next week or so.
Thanks for watching!
I wonder if you can help me to set up the configuraion so that the exhaust fan goes on at a certain temperature in the chamber. I have added a sensor in the chamber and want the fan to go on or increase speed at certain temp to control the temp in the chamber.
So I have not done this myself. However, have a look at this: www.klipper3d.org/Config_Reference.html#temperature_fan
I can try to answer questions if I have them, but since I have not done this, Discord might be a better option.
Thanks for watching.
@@KapmansBasementWorkshop Thanks for your answer. Maybe it is better having the fan on lower speed and after certain temp it accelerates. This is a challenge
@@gudbjorghjalmsdottir7968 I can take a look this weekend and to try and get it working. I print mostly ABS, I leave the fan off the entire print. I only turn it on when the print is finished after the bed has cooled down. Or at least I used to. I installed Nevermore and actually don't use the exhaust fan any more....
Fantastic video. Most of these I hadn’t heard of before. I’m almost finished the mechanical build of my first Voron. What is that green filament on your Voron?
I really need to know tat filament. It’s weighing on me.
Thank you! Paramount Military Green. www.amazon.com/dp/B01LZQ0K32?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2_dt_b_product_details
13:35 Controller_fan section is exactly what i was trying to figure out. I want the fans for the electronics to turn on pretty much anytime the machine is doing something. Maybe even so far as to monitor the temp of the rpi and mcu and turn on those fans when it gets above 45C even if nothing else is running. What you have is better than using the heatbed to turn it on. But do you know how to turn fans on based on temperatures of the electronics?
I don't recommend having the fans turn on when the electronics hit a certain temperature. I fear you will burn some of your motor drivers. The only electronics that actually requires a fan during operation are the stepper drivers. And the stepper drivers can't tell you their temperature (as far as I know). I also know that the temps on the motor drivers swing wildly and in a very rapid manner. And, I personally have fried 2 motor drivers with inadequate cooling. I would turn on the cooling fans as soon as any stepper is about to be powered. I learned my lesson the hard way....
@@KapmansBasementWorkshop Oh, I was more thinking the fans would be on when steppers are in use and also if no steppers are in use but I'm configuring stuff in Klipper or Linux. But if those processors don't overheat then I'll just leave it with turning them on when it's heating up the bed or using steppers.
I recently put together my first Voron. A V0.2 and have been dialing in the print quality which requires, for me, lots of reading then doing one configuration thing like trying pressure advance then reading more for next steps. So that downtime in between is where I was seeing the mcu/rpi heating up with no fans on because of reboots. I bet this is a moot point during normal operations later.
I'm sure you saw them heat up. But for a pi, 50 or 60c is just fine. I would worry if the pi was getting to 75 or 80c.
You can also set the Exhaust Fan to kick in once the print is finished using the *PRINT_END* Macro... Just saying.
That's a good idea. Do you have any problems with the print cooling too quickly and warping when using ABS?
Thanks.
You're welcome. Thanks for watching!
Amazing! Thank you :)
Thank you as well!
Temps stratify drastically inside an enclosed printer. Z should always be on the bed so you can do the printing up high in the top of the printer where the atmosphere is hotter. Additionally, the filter system needs to be designed so it's dumping the already heated and newly filtered air to the interior. When printing ABS you really want a 50c printing zone. 35c is absolute minimum. As you go up in temp warping disappears and larger parts can be accomplished. Some claim up to 70c is even better but I can't achieve above about 53 on my Ender 6 printers. Looking to upgrade to Voron after 7 years of enclosed ABS printing (formerly 4x Davinci's). Will build Triton's to get the best of all worlds. Liked, start a Triton.
I'm new to this printer design so apologies if this is a dumb question. But what do you mean by, "Z should always be on the bed so you can do the printing up high..."? Are you drawing a contrast between the fixed bed Voron design vs. the vertical moving bed design of your Ender 6 printers? Unless I'm missing something (entirely possible), your advice can't be followed with a VORON design printer...
Thinking about the case filter fan and this stratification issue (hot air rises...), why not design a recirculating fan that draws a small volume of air from the top of the printer and sends it in at the bottom? Might need to be careful to avoid strong localized drafts. Or, perhaps more effective and simpler, add a low velocity circulation within the enclosure with some small fans designed to reduce the temperature gradient during long prints at high temps.
@@steveh8724 Voron's are very high quality. But yes, there are absolutely a number of Vorons with Z on the bed (bed goes up and down, carriage height remains fixed). V0.1, V1.x series and Voron Trident. It's only the 2 series (as far as I know) which has Z on the carriage like your 2.4. The V2.4 is exceedingly popular and it's a fantastic printer. Just this aspect is a modest disadvantage.
@@steveh8724 You are correct to realize a fan would put a draft at the part which is usually a problem with ABS and probably also with Delrin and other materials with a higher shrink ratio on cool down. That being said, I've found A very small amount fan can be tolerated and is in my settings for overhangs that are over 45 degrees. I think you'll find you have a very excellent printer there. I would just recommend taking some measurements at various levels in the machine. You'll find a dramatic temp change from low to high altitude. Vorons are primarily ABS printers which is often the common material used with mechanical items and by more advanced users. I really want take advantage of the stagnant concentrated heat at the level of the printing. It exists naturally up high in the printer. If I am printing something not happy with hot environments (like PLA), I can always open the top and leave the doors open. It's not hard to get rid of heat, but it is difficult to get it when you need it. I'm about ready to order a 0.1 for a first build. I want to replace my two Ender 6 units (very good printers!) with Voron Tridents over the next year if possible.
There is an enhancement for the Voron 2.4, the nevermore filter that recirculates the air internally that many have success with. I'm considering it. But I also like the idea of taking air from the top of the printer and sending it back down to the bottom...
Great video. I thought Klipper had a 1.2 amp limit? I also have the Blurolls kit and noisy LDO motors, I will be trying you settings.
I'm not aware of a Klipper limit. I'll need to check that out. However, the TMC 2209 stepper drivers have a max capacity of 2 amps. There is no way they will be able to handle that kind of power for any reasonable length of time without burning up. Make sure your 24v cooling fans that blow air over the board are running at full 24v and not 12v. There is a jumper on the spider board to adjust voltage to the fans. I expect the improved heat sinks will provide some additional headroom. Thnaks!
While your new heat sinks helped you I wanted to clarify some information you gave that is a little misleading.
Larger heat sinks help pull heat away with thermal mass but once they are heat-soaked that is no longer any better than a smaller heat sink.
What helps with cooling is surface area, not just* mass. (*more mass usually includes more surface area but this depends on the design) You actually want more cut outs in your heat sinks as it allows more surface for the heat to dissipate from more quickly. So in your specific case, all else being equal, if you bought the same heat sink but it had more cuts in the fins it would actually cool better.
I 100% agree with you. These heatsinks do have more more surface area via the fins which I believe backs up your statement. I also oriented them so the fans are able to blow more air fully through those fins. Thank you for the clarification / correction and thank you for watching!
@@KapmansBasementWorkshop You are correct that they can have more surface area as the heatsink itself is larger. My comment was specifically pointed towards the mention of them having less slits than the smaller ones which actually harms cooling and more mass on it's own doesn't help cooling.
@@CharredChar Got it. Thanks for the clarification!
@@KapmansBasementWorkshop No problem! I am actually building a V2.4r2 as we speak so I found this helpful as some things to note once I get it powered on. The idea behind making that comment is more of a, "If I can find the same size heatsink as you did but it includes a couple extra cuts in the fins it should increase cooling more!"
@@CharredChar Have a look in that video's description. The link to the heat sinks is posted there. Just in case you had trouble finding them. Thanks1
Would you be interested in sharing your printer configuration file? I'm just about to build my 2.4 R2.
Yes. I posted it and the related files yesterday! Please don't just download and use "as is", it could damage your new build and it contains features you may not have on a brand new build. But please do use it as an example/reference. github.com/Kapman1/Kapman1
@@KapmansBasementWorkshop thanks brother much appreciated
Can the controller_fan be controlled by temperature readings from Raspberry Pi?"
I believe you can, but I would not recommend it. The fans are critical for cooling the stepper driver chips. They get very hot very quickly and will damage themselves. The pi? It doesn't really need lots of cooling as it will throttle itself if it starts to get too hot. But Klipper doesn't create huge pi cpu loads anyway
Yes, you are right. So, could the control be with the MCU?
That’s how mine is setup now, but configuration is with the printer.cfg file.
Ok, can you send the code for this configuration
where can we find youre code ?
Are you referring to the changes to the Klipper config file? I've always assumed that one could pause the video and type in the same text. But honestly, not sure why I did not consider posting the file in the past other than I most likely have changes that might or might not apply to your printer.
How is the electrical safety on the voron? Do I need to ground the frame?
It's highly recommended to ground the frame. I ground mine. It's pretty easy to do with all the electronics mounted in the base where electrical ground comes in. I don't know how critical this is, but it's not worth taking a chance. Ground it.
@@KapmansBasementWorkshop Is there a guide on grounding the frame?
@@lukazz434 I'm not aware of a guide. However, you can test with the continuity setting of a volt meter or in the case below (my volt meter died during the build) rig up an led, battery and some wires to test for continuity. This video: th-cam.com/video/7OQSk0oNxNQ/w-d-xo.html at 14.35 shows how I did it (see the yellow wire). It's not super clear now that I'm looking at it. But it works like this: The SSR is mounted on the DIN rail which is bolted to the frame just as the printer bed is. So I attached ground to that SSR mounting bolt because when I tested for continuity, I got current running from that bolt to the aluminum bed. I'm sure other bolts would work as well. To get continuity working, you might need to use a slightly longer bolt or 2 to dig into extrusion at the bed and /or possibly the bolt used to secure the DIN rail. You could also just inert a t-nut or 2 with a bolt or two that dig a little into the aluminum extrusion as well.
@@KapmansBasementWorkshop Seems clear to me. However, I'm gonna call someone to help me with the electrical safety stuff since I'm an mechanical engineer, not an electrical.
@@lukazz434 That sounds like a fantastic idea. If you hear what I've done is a terrible idea, please let me know!
You don't have stealthchop on for the tmc2209? If you want to quieten the steppers you should turn stealthchop on
I don't. The Klipper documentation seems to recommend Stealthchop be turned off due to concerns about accuracy. Since you have been running it, have you noticed any issues? I may try it soon.
@@KapmansBasementWorkshop it depends what you're aiming for. I work for a company that worries about micrometer if not nanometers but aren't using fff to achieve that. For me I don't mine running it a bit slower and less accurate for it being a lot quieter. Each to their own I guess. Worth a try though
@@mrsurfhead , I've got to try it now. Thank you!
@@KapmansBasementWorkshop let me know what you think!
if you going to go with stealthchop over spread cycle you are going to need to slow down your print speeds and accelerations/decelerations or you printer is going to start skipping steps. It's a give and take here, either slow and silent or fast and loud.
thank you very much, however i did have problems with the temp stuff the way you showed it, this is what i ended up with
###########################################################
# Add raspberry PI system temperature
###########################################################
[temperature_sensor raspberry_pi]
sensor_type: temperature_host
min_temp: 10
max_temp: 100
############################################################
# Add Octopus MCU system temperature
############################################################
[temperature_sensor octopus_mcu]
sensor_type: temperature_mcu
min_temp: 10
max_temp: 100
Glad you have it working. Thank you for posting that and watching.
im curious as to why you bed power was jumping around with the heaters off?
Where in the video was it doing this? I might have made a mistake with the clips I inserted when editing the video. But I'm not sure where in the video this occurs.
I haven't completely finished watched the video - and therefore this comment isn't about the contents (which I can already assume are fantastic) but something related: audio capture. It isn't bad in the slightest, but there is the occasional plosive (P and Bs are the worst offenders) that's getting caught. Having some kind of pop shield will greatly reduce the effects these have on your final output.
Now, back to the video. :D
Very good suggestion. I use a headset which might be part of the problem. I've been thinking about an upgrade. I'm going to look into a pop shield to go along with that. Thank you for the suggestion!
Instead of your exhaust fan solution, you can also just eliminate the exhaust fan and install a nevermore filter instead. It keeps the heat inside but constantly filters the air
Thanks for the tip. Nevermore is a future project for sure. But I had already built this, so for now, a fix until I move on to something better.
What build plate are you using?
I'm using the default plate that came with the Blurolls kit.
@@KapmansBasementWorkshop I think the question is more how thick that plate is. So the kit is like modding a car with low suspension etc. but standard tires and not flat ones. Ok here it is probably more the opposite, standard (BOM) screws but thinner "tooling" plate. But I bought some sub system kits and mine (buildplate) is 8 mm thick, but there I am more concerned about its black "anodized" surface. I still have to drill and tap a earth connection into it.
@@wernerhiemer406 The plate was the correct thickness, but the mounting holes were countersunk holes which are different from the BOM. I don't believe there is anything wrong with it, but it is different from the BOM edge mount. I found myself wondering about the black extrusion, but the seem very straight.
@@KapmansBasementWorkshop Ah ok. But no not the extrusions are black, but my plate. Not a kit at all in the sense of only printed parts missing. Edit: the extrusions as well are black, but they were more difficult to get the screws in one go. Only three I got at first try screws in and mostly even per two finger grip. I were afraid to strip or break screw or allen key. But eventually they gone as deep as they needed to thighten down for making corners.
@@wernerhiemer406 When you post to get a Voron serial number, post a link here as well so we can have a look at the finished printer.
how do you cut and paste in to the printer config sorry im a complete noob just finish building my Voron 2.4
Select the text you wish to copy with your mouse and then press "ctrl-c" to copy and move to where you want the text and press "ctrl-v" to paste.
For super stick, I put some acetone down and then rub the entire thing with some ABS of the same color that I will be printing in. You dont have to do it much and you wont even see it on there. Super sticky.
That's a good idea. So basically, you make ABS glue right on the bed!
Thanks alot, thanks to your temp configuration at step 1, i cant connect to the raspberry after clicking save and restart. Thanks for making me loose all my config and making me reinstall everything
That's what happens when you trust a chanel who's nobody
@@joaquimcastillaizquierdo783 I'm sorry you ran into a problem. But it sounds like something else was wrong. As you use Klipper and make improvements to your printer, you will always need to press "save and restart" for Klipper to recognize changes in your config file. I must have made 100 changes to the config file and restarted Klipper and I've never had a problem. By any chance, did you restart using some other method? Restarting a Raspberry PI by turning off it's power has a history of damaging files on the SD card which might explain what you experienced. Again, I'm sorry you experienced a problem. Good luck with the rest of your build.
I searched everywhere to get that option on my printer. By chance this individual showed how to enable it. When I put it in it worked without issue. As the channel owner said, I believe something else caused your issue as this obviously works. Not to mention, EVEN IF it did mess up, klipper would just not enable the printer to work. You would still be able to connect and change it back.
@@cotycollins6302 Thank you for verifying this worked for you!
my new v0 has VFA more than my ender... so disappointed
Try following the tuning guide. I posted the link above.
nr5 does not work it keeps saying steppers blablabla don't know why i took your code
What was the actual message you received? I might be able to provide some help if I knew what the actual message was.
Thanks for this great tips!
Even tho I don't have a Voron yet I decided to use Klipper and now my printer its a lot faster
I'm able to hit 6k Acceleration and to still have a perfect part! On a Malyan M150 a printer made in 2015 (Wanhao i3 clone)
And now with some tips&tricks learned from your great content I'm sure that I can be able to fine tune my printer.
I also have a question for you if you know I still have an issue with my Extruder Temp and from time to time I still get an err when the part cooling fan kick in for bridging
"Heater extruder not heating at expected rate See the 'verify_heater' section in docs/Config_Reference.md"
the problems starts when I turn my part cooling fan to the maximum. This problem Its also because of the great cooling provided by the Stealthburner :D
when I have the Heater at 210C and I start the part cooling fan to maximi the extruder heater gose to 192-195 and slowly start to crank up. I have an silicon sock
I use a 40W Heater. There is a setting how many current it can suck? I have 25A mosfet upgrade for the bead and one for hotend
Hmmmm, for the extruder heater I would 1st try a PID tune for the hotend with the part cooling fan running at the maximum speed. If that does not solve the problem or the PID tune fails as well, I would swap out the 40w heater for a higher wattage unit and do another PID tune.
Thank you for the compliments and for watching the video and I'm very glad you are finding some of these tips useful. I wish you luck in solving the problem and please let us know what ended up fixing the problem.
@@KapmansBasementWorkshop I tried the PID with and without the fan on (part cooling fan) and it went thru I think I need to mount the 50W heater but I'm postponing this because I still use the old mother board and its 12V.
Thanks a lot for the fast reply