HOW TO REPLACE Loud Noisy DECK BEARINGS on a JOHN DEERE LA145. Riding Lawnmower problem FIXED!
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 28 ก.ย. 2024
- Very LOUD Noisy Deck Bearings when the BLADES are ENGAGED. HOW TO REMOVE and REPLACE the DECK BEARINGS on a JOHN DEERE LA145 Riding Lawnmower 48" inch cutting deck. Similar REBUILD Procedure for MOST Riding Lawn Mowers. Common problem. Watch Jeff Replace the Deck Bearings on a Rider Lawnmower. Lawn mower deck problems diagnosed and repaired. Bearing REMOVAL and INSTALLATION. Belt location directions diagram. Blades Sharpen.
Music by my band BonzaiRod
Copyright 2017 Jeff's Little Engine Service
For T-Shirts and Parts, visit my website!
www.jeffslittle...
Donations are greatlt appreciated. click below
www.paypal.com...
Sponsored in part by GRIP Tools, "they help me help you, check them out"
gripontools.net/
PLEASE KEEP IN MIND when you are watching my videos: I am demonstrating the least expensive, quickest "backyard", "backwoods"methods for repairing or servicing your lawnmower. Replacing all components such as gaskets and fuel lines is always recommended when rebuilding or repairing equipment. With these videos I hope you are able to fix and repair your lawnmower yourself with minimal parts, knowledge and tools. Remember to always work safely and follow proper mechanic procedures. Thank you for watching!
Jeff
It’s a good idea to also add grease fittings to housings too (if the manufacturer didn’t) and then remove seals from inner surfaces of the new bearings so grease can actually enter the bearing and do its job. Leave the seals in place on the outer surfaces of the bearing to help prevent entry of contaminants and water. Then advise/instruct owner to grease the fittings each month and prior to winter storage. The manufacturer builds these machines with sealed bearings and no grease points because they believe most homeowners are too lazy and stupid to service equipment properly. This causes premature wear and bearing failure, which typically ends in service expense.
Too lazy and stupid is a fact of life for humanity, even mechanics often fail to do adequate maintenance on their own garden tools. Part of the reason grease fittings disappeared from cars everywhere is because new sealed bearings were better than relying on maintenance. It would be interesting to see a trial of bearings intentionally damaged to permit maintenance vs sealed bearings with no maintenance. I will guess that the sealed bearings would win, even in those homes where backyard mechanics stated full intention to grease the fittings every month. Life gets in the way of best intentions.
I have to take deck off to get to the blades to sharpen them,so since I'm there we pull the shafts and bearings pop the seals out of the bearings clean check condition of bearings regrease with wheel bearing grease. Reassemble seems to work great.
@@spelunkerd Even if you removed both inner seals off the bearings unless you drill some small holes in the outer seals the outer seals would pop out under the pressure of the grease. It defeates me why JD actually has a grease point at all, with sealed bearings it does absolutely nothing at all apart from fill a void with grease.
@@spelunkerd IM very curious about your response . All my trucks since 2000 havent had zerts. one ford person said once they need grease its probably already a bad bearing... I wonder if maybe the engineers think that we over grease things that allows moisture to get into bearing cups?? i mean Ive sen people use air greasers that hold the trigger like its an automatic gun. i think maybe it causes damage to over grease and blows seals to keep out moisture .. Your thoughts??
@@culbyj3665 I share your concern about over greasing and pressure effects on the seal. But in the big picture, most grease fittings never get used.
This is a great video. I had trouble removing the pulley, the impact wrench was the key! I have a simpicity and it is very similar.
I'm sorry but I did mine yesterday. I wouldn't even try to do it in the grass. It went a lot quicker than this. I don't think I would be visiting Jeff's Little Engine Service too soon.
perfect
Thanks really helpful to see how it comes apart, I would have taken off aluminum housing if I hadn't seen your video
Thanks for the video. Funny you used the video to put the belt back on. I'm glad that I took a picture before I replaced mine a few years ago, Normally I don't have that foresight.
cute family day out. Thanks for the video!
As mentioned, if you're using a wrench, you definitely need to keep the blades on with a chock of some sort (2x4) in order to get the spindle bolts off.
I use electric halve inch impact wrench works great,got from harbor freight also impact sockets.
ITim O'Sullivan oolllô
Recently acquired mower about shake me out of the seat when blades engaged. Figured something was worn or bent...not a mechanic....Good video ! Now know where to look for vibration producing wear ! Chickens nice touch....lol
George First thing to check is the blade balance...easy to do with a nail through the blades center hole... and then ALL the bearings in the deck !!!
Dude- Just buy the spindle kit and replace it. You made way more work for yourself than needed!
The idler pulley also needs the bearing replaced. I always keep 2 sets of spindles in reserve , makes it easier. Also take the seal out of one side of the new bearing so when you grease it the bearing gets the grease.
good tips
After 10 years my LA145 mower deck spun a bearing on one of the idler pulleys - I could have replaced just that item but after a decade of use I decided to rebuild the entire deck. I bought a rebuild kit from Green Dade Outdoor the "48” John Deere 100 Series 145, D140, LA145, X140 Deck Rebuild Kit" @ $138.00 + shipping. Includes belt, three blades, three blade spindles, two small and one large idler pulleys. Here are some tips: 1) After removing the deck, clear off any grass clippings and take a picture of the belt arrangement for future reference. 2) After so many years the nuts won't want to come off without a fight - an impact wrench with 10mm, 15mm and 22mm sockets will solve this problem. 3) The idler pulleys are sealed bearings - so no lube required. And UNLIKE the video I did NOT repack the spindle bearings - the new spindles come fully assembled in new spindle housings. The spindle housings have grease fittings so I filled them with grease - they took quite a bit. Other posters claim this is not needed but hey, it's only grease. I was pleased with the quality of the components supplied in the re-build kit - the job itself is pretty straightforward as described in the video - WITH ONE EXCEPTION. 4) When I went to mount the re-worked deck the new belt was about an inch or so too small to fit over the electric clutch pulley. Even using a crow bar to push the belt-tensioner assembly FULLY forward I could not get the new belt over the clutch pulley - close but no cigar. I decided to try removing the idler pulley on the LEFT side of the deck (the left as seen from the drivers normal position). This gave me about 4 more inches of belt to work with so it was easy to get the belt over the clutch pulley - the belt tensioner took up the slack, for now anyway. BUT the left belt guard is now in the way so I left the belt guard off and ran the mower - works fine. Of course, if you try this BE CAREFUL not to make contact with the belt. After four mowings of my 3/4 acre lot I found that the belt had been stretched enough so that it now fits properly with the idler pulley and belt guard back in place. Hope this helps!
When I replaced bearings, I filled the empty spindle housing up with grease, then all is needed is a few pumps of grease after each mow.
I use a large screw driver on the idler tensioner to take the pressure off, which allows me to then slip the belt over the pulley. I almost takes 3 hands, but I've played with it a few times, so I've got it figured out.
PA LAWN GUY And Aircraft mech.> Please don't transfer pounding force across the ball bearings. It will Burnell the races so it is good the outer races went in easy.
Thanks for teaching sir
If you can just push the bearings into the housing,like that,then you should replace the housing,as well.
They are a "tap fit",...that is,they are made to be tapped in place,snugly.
Those are going to wobble.
Also if the bearing is sealed on both sides,you don't use grease,if they're open,on one side/sealed on the other,you pack them with grease,and install a zerk fitting.
But,don't mind me,...I've only been doing this work for 48 years....
ok got the bearing,s in,now make a run 2 hardware store 2 get all the nut,s and bolts,I drop n grass!!!!
Hi question..Shouldn't the shaft be a tighter tap in fit inside the bearing inner race( time 14 .50 in video)..otherwise the shaft is just turning in the inner race and the bearingins't actually performing its function ?
Yes you are probably right. You can "peen" the housing to prevent the race from spinning.
I can see how it would be very difficult to quote a price to the customer. Let's see before you start how many shafts have bad bearings. And if you worked on it before whether it had grease between the bearings or not. Someone can leave needed washers off and rust can mess up everything. So I would have to inspect the deck to see it's condition before even offering to quote a price as well as if I had repaired this deck before or not. In fact I would put never-seize on the big nuts and the grease between bearings is critical. These decks rot away rapidly. So to slow that down in any lasting way would benefit the customer depending on how much effort needs expended.
Yes! keeping them cleaned and serviced can greatly extend the life of a lawnmower cutting deck
why not take the seals off of the bearings before putting them in
Thanks for the video! Being and old man wearing glasses, owning a impact driver, and not wanting to stoop over for the whole project, my choice would be to slip off the blades and use that impact driver to remove each whole bearing housing. Then I would rebuild it on my work bench where I can stand straight up and see it much better. That also might give you a better chance to clean up all parts including your deck and check for any cracking etc. Your method achieves the same results of course. My back just hurts watching you wrestle that deck around on the ground. If you have a pickup truck, the tailgate area makes a good workbench for mower decks if you can get someone to help you put it there initially. Good Luck!
Thanks friend! good tips with the tailgate idea. I do have work benches but they are always full!
Wow, did I wade into a mess.
My spindles were so tight I could not pound them out,
I tried soaking in PB blaster over night, NOPE.
Tried heating them till they were smoking hot, NOPE.
So, I resorted to using a gear puller. Even set at 100 pounds of torque it was really hard to push out. I looked at just buying new hubs and spindles. HAH, $135 apiece. I already have the new bearings so I'm going to tough it out and try to save the old ones.
I worry about breaking the puller and having shrapnel go flying. I will share more later when I am done.
I got the replacement assemblies from Amazon. All three assemblies totaled $73. You must have priced this item at John Deere. Don't expect J-D to give you any price breaks. At $73. I'm not going to fiddle with all the bearing pulling and replacement, etc. And, while you have the assembly off the deck, you can clean any rust and shoot a little paint on the deck where the spindle assemblies bolt on. My model is a LA-145 48 inch cut but the set of 3 that I bought will fit many different models. Went to Amazon and typed in "LA145 deck spindle".Check it out.
@@robj2704 Thanks for the info.
I'm skeptical of amazon, too much of their stuff comes direct from China.
Jeff , check out “dead blow automotive hammers” no bounce back & you can make a heavier blow with it ! Shalom!
very good tip! thank you
That deck needs rust inhibitor as well. Just did mine. Decks are exxxxxxpensives! Ask me how I know.
2 years late on this post but, today I yanking mine out to flap sand it and paint it. They rust before a bearing goes
Thanks your video was a great help in understanding!
good job mate
thanks friend!
Good job
Thank you for watching
What a cosy fellow, very glad for his hammer. Nice to get it all 3 times without walking in the dog pooh..........
Very Good!..
thanks for watching and for the nice comment
Now that you had everything off I would wet sanded, rust inhibit then repainted to make look new again.
Good tips, but I know this customer would not want to pay for that!
@JeffsLittleEngineService my apologies, I thought it was yours. Yeah most people don't think like that add a few years more on the deck. They're not cheap!
Lots of comments about cheap mowers. What are good quality mowers that are recommended and price range?
I like Craftsman because they are not expensive and easy to work on. Make sure you get one with a Briggs and Stratton engine.
I'd suggest an older well kept mower made in the 60's, 70's or 80's. Most can be had for less than $500. I own a 41 year old Cub Cadet garden tractor and a 32 year old Wheel Horse riding mower. Both have never let me down and do a great job cutting the grass with very minimal maintenance. The build quality is head and shoulders above what you'll find today. That's why they have been cutting grass and working hard for decades. My neighbor has a couple of newer riding mowers. Well, there always having an issue with something. They'll last for a few year's. After that it's about time to scrap em because the cost to repair or replace worn out parts is outrageous. I had to say it but they don't make em like they used to.
I agree with the craftsman. I have two from the 90's and love them. I'll go one more and say the Koehler engine runs great just like the Briggs.
I leave my belt guards off both sides so i can blow the clippings/dirt off after i mow. Just remember to not put your feet there with the PTO engaged. If you have kids that use the tractor DO NOT leave the belt guards off!
I do believe on some models, belt guides are molded into the guards though.
My 12 year old LA145 John Deere has steel guards over the deck pulleys. I drilled 1-1/2" holes in the guards and use my leaf blower to push out any grass clippings.
did you have to replace the idler pulley bearings? i'm in the middle of this job also and have replaced both spindle assemblies and was thinking whether the idler pulley bearings were shot too? will the have play like the spindle bearings if they are shot i wonder?
I did not have to replace them. Some idler pulley bearings are not replaceable so you would have to buy a new pulley if the bearings were bad.
Jeff's Little Engine Service thanks for that. How would you know if the idler pulley bearings were bad? Would they have play like the spindle assembly does where it kinda rocks back and forth?
yeah I spin them too. They should spin freely for awhile before they stop and not make too much noise.
What kind of grease did you use?
Need advice on d140 cutting off when mowing.
what part numbers were the replacement bearings?
Go online to John Deere parts diagrams and the parts for you model will be there.
thanks for sharing the experience Jeff.. Im fixin to do my 42" Huskee/MTD.. I was wonderin why you didnt spin up the idler pulleys.. mine are srcreamin' and need replaced also... God Bless ! love that country setting too : )
I can’t find the bearings. Can you provide the part number. Thanks
Part numbers are on the old bearing. You will need to pull the spindles off and get to the bearing outer race. NSPA will probably have the part and probably the parts diagram of the mower deck by brand of mower deck but I would not swear to it. I have a Husky tractor with 54 in deck. The decks look like almost identical. My buddy landscaper tells me almost all small mower and tractor brands are made by one plant. Same one making Murray Brand. I’m betting there is probably only one major deck manufacturer servicing almost all brands of mowers. Anyone know for sure? Same goes for heat pumps. All buy maybe 6 are made by Goodman.
JoeB
Hi mr. Jeff i love watching your video and the chickens...any way when i engage my pto lever its starts smoking. Can u give advice.. Thanks n ADVANCE
make sure the blades and all pulleys can spin freely
That shaft saw the hammer coming
Lower deck, raise John Deere with 2 ton hoist until tractor stands straight up. Stand or set on chair. Next remove blades...
Lol. Nice..
@@777muzzy Disabled Vietnam 75, one working arm, so got cool solar metal shop. Have to make things easy for wife to help, CNC plasma nice.
@@ArizVern Well done sir! I'm all about making it easy. I've been a millwright for years and I do a lot of work on my own, especially big farm equipment. I've made lots of devices to make my job easier. Stay safe and stay healthy sir. Cheers.
I never put the Belt Guards Back on unless the owner demands them to be installed, very hard to keep area around bearings clean with guards in place....
randy beard Got to have them around here with the grandkids. Little fingers and toes will be needed later on down the road.
I added (two) 1.5 or 2 inch holes on the side/back to place my blower up against to clean it out after each mow.
@@jonsmith5774 Good thinking! Great tip! Thx!
all the decks on home owner scrap are just tin cans that don't last, wheels brake off, crakes all to crap, never buy bearings from the dealer, you will get the same crap off shore bearings and seals that it came with and pay though the nose for them, take the bearings and seals to a bearing store, and get good seals and bearing made by SKF OR OTHER TOP NAMES for just a few bucks each, that will last a long time, and cost you far less for a better product, be sure to replace all seals well you are in there, a lot of these home owner stuff the shafts do not have a grease fitting, drill a 1/6 hole on the nut / pulley end half way down into the shaft, then go to the center of the shaft and drill a 1/8 hole into the side to meet the other hole, install a grease fitting on the end of the shaft on the pulley side, for the extra time it save you or your customer a costly shaft repair later, you have it all a part already, you might as well take the hour and do it, because when one of them shaft brakes it takes everything out
There are no separate Seals in these spindles. That model has grease fittings which are a joke if you are dealing with sealed bearings. Far to time consuming and serves no purpose to drill and tap shaft for zerk fittings.
@@Huvvuv I just bought an LA145 with 130 hours, it is probably ten years old but looks new, but the deck has a loose spindle, cant believe it, thought it would be like new... Thus... a mower deck bearing can fail in 130 hours on one of these if not greases, it does not look abused... and original owner and deck...
Thank u really helpful..
Nice work dude
“Zoink”
I never take the blades off it comes out from the bottom
Dude, lay a piece of cardboard down. I was afraid you weren’t gonna find all your parts in that grass... a fried of mine that was in the grading business , used to call that his garage floor. Lol
I don't ever recommend removing mechanical parts on a grassy lawn. That is a sure invitation to lose critical small pieces/parts. At the least, do the work over a tarp or a piece of cardboard.
excellent advice!
No Point putting new bearings into flogged out housings.
What did your bearings cost?
about $10-$15 each online Amazon
Wish me luck folks, D'oh! 🤣
How are you forcing grease into sealed bearing? If the inner seal membranes are not removed the seals don’t get proper lube! This is JD design error!
Joe Landis absolutely correct. Steve’s small engine saloon shows why... th-cam.com/video/d3eC2OIg85o/w-d-xo.html
A grease gun puts out 10 000 psi with every pump them bearing covers don't stop it lol , they are not seals just loose fitting dust covers ya can pick em out with your fingernail. Grease until you see it come out both ends of spindle , the grease goes threw the bearings . where else can it go lol , its gona go somewhere with 10 000 psi . it will follow the path of least resistance and around the loose fitting covers and out the end of spindle . thats how they designed it to work lol
Where do you buy the Bearings?? Home Depot/Lowes?? Thanks.
I ordered them on Amazon
If you leave the dogshit on the grass it makes it easier to slide the deck back in place.
lol! good tip!
How much were the bearings?
about $8.00 each
Anyone with common sense can replace the bearings
You don't have to remove the blades to replace the bearings. Work from the top of the deck. The shaft and blade will fall loose once you remove the top nut.
True and that’s how mechanics do it
@@philliphall5198might as well sharpen the blades at this point😊
Sure am glad I do all my own maintenance and repair work. Everybody treats equipment differently.
That video was well-done. I would suggest working on a mower on a concrete slab. Working in grass, you were dropping hardware in the grass, messing with dog crap, having leaves stuck to your leg, kneeling in wet grass. Yecch.
I love the attention to detail and how he so carefully flips the deck over...
I WAS THINKING THE SAME THING AND USING HIS TOOLS FOR A HAMMER
And dropping the parts in the grass
Rule #1 - take care of the equipment. Rule #2 - take care of your tools. Staying organized is a plus too.
He's a true shadetree, he is.
Some of what you say is wrong, particularly needing an impact wrench. First clue was not knowing how to take off the deck. Lower the deck on 2x4s and all the tension is gone. Owner doesn't take care of it either.
I've watched a lot of videos of people removing the deck off their mowers. None of them used 2x4s. The company I bought my mower through has a video on removing the deck and the video does not show using 2x4s. It shows lowering the deck to the ground or floor.
Just because you struggle and need your “2x4s” doesn’t mean the rest of us do
@@danielameel7437 If you are going to make a video that teaches novices something, teach them correctly per the manufacturer's instructions. The owners manual and technical service manual clearly states lower the deck on wooden blocks.
u are correct Sir , ive done spindles and much more on my HD 75 walk behind with a 54 inch deck. LITTLES JOHN DEERE in PA is excellent for service and parts..
Because you left both seals in the bearings, packing grease in the spindle won't do a thing for them.
I've found factory spindles (most) do not have grease fittings, therefore I leave seals. Aftermarket spindles do have grease fittings.
Boy, are you right! If the spindle housings have zerk fittings on them and you do not remove the inner side seal cover on the bearings, filling the spindles do absolutely nothing to keep the bearings lubricated. Use a bearing pick or ice pick to remove thhe inner seal so the grease can reach the bearing and race. A rookie miistake, unless he did so, but did not show us.
@@lomgshorts3 You're wrong about filling the housing with grease does absolutely nothing. Water wont reach the bearing from inside the housing either. Water is destroying these bearings.
@@parkerbirch1475 That is THE reason I NEVER use water to clean the underside of my deck. Water and mechanical things don't mix. I clean the deck manually by using compressed air!
@@lomgshorts3 A grease gun puts out 10 000 psi with every pump them bearing covers don't stop it lol , they are not seals just loose fitting dust covers ya can pick em out with your fingernail. Grease until you see it come out both ends of spindle , the grease goes threw the bearings .
A little anti-seize on the blade side shaft threads will go a long way to increase the life of the shaft, and make the nuts easier to remove.
Good vid! A man that knows the value of pre-lubing nuts/bolts, no wasted time!-
The bearing is spun in the spindle housing you need all new spindle assemblies.
And the bearing should not fall onto the shaft that easy.
@@crashland5711 and
or knurl them and use some Loctite 640 sleeve retainer
This is good DIY video, but doing this in the grass might loose a lot of parts, but each to their own.
I was thinking the same thing.
I always drive my mower onto a tarp so if I drop anything I can find it . And I have a magnet handy to retrieve the parts I drop . Comes from working on farm equipment out in the hayfield .
Really appreciate the effort of filming while you're working on that mower deck. Trying to hold a camera and work must be tough.
look at the rust on that deck. every john deere deck ive seen has been in that state. you would think they would do a decent paint job with undercoat given the price they charge for those machines.
I agree, but they are made to sell, not to last. Entire deck should be dipped prior to paint.
I have a Z225 thats 11yrs old and still has a good shine on it, no rust at all. I just blow everything off after each mow and that seems to keep it looking new.
I have a gx355 that I have never serviced except for 3 belt changes a new transmission pulley a new fuel pump two new deck brackets that were made out of some scrap mettle as the old ones broke due to fatigue and the odd clean in its 17 years of service. it has been used to cut a paddock that is thick with weeds almost 2 feet high almost once a year as well as normal lawn use and a lot of trailer towing and I can report that it doesn't have a speck of rust on it other than a few small dings so it is a real decent mower in my vew
Deere powder coats everything. AS soon as a pin hole lets in moisture the rust spreads under the "paint". Then large sections of powder coating come off in sheets. What you find underneath is surface rust. The deck is powder coated and the body is too. Big mess if you really use the machine. Starts out green and yellow and ends up rust. Give me paint any day.
@@robremlap4071 What about underneath?
All these Generic John Deere riding Mowers use Deck Bearings made in China, none of them will last very long--it is a sealed bearing in a hub that has a grease fitting, go figure, no way for grease to get into bearings....
How can a John Deere mower be "generic"? They have model numbers - they can't be generic. They're made by John Deere in their Greeneville, TN factory. Please explain further...
Just let everyone know that John Deere uses the smaller #203 bearings even though MOST OTHER manufacturers use the larger #204.
JD typifies there attitude of "different is better" because if they use different design criteria, you are stuck with using their parts exclusively. I have grown to detest everything John Deere represents any more.
Thanks! Can you get these bearings somewhere close? Just by asking for 203 bearings?
The shafts should not be loose ...the bearing should be snug on the shaft so the bearings take the friction. Don't sand the shaft so much that the bearing slides that loosely.
I agree, was gonna say the same thing.
I leave my guard off my X300 bc it just collects grass which you don’t want and you don’t want to keep removing the guard after every cut. If your dumb enough to get near the spinning pulleys then you should go buy a push 5 blade Leave It To Beaver mower.😂
If you can move the pulley a bit side to side then the housing is wallowed out and is junk.😮 If you don’t have an air compressor then buy an electric impact.
The bearing cover should be removed so you can add more grease bc I think they skimp on grease. If your spindles have a grease zerk fitting then it takes about 80 pumps to for e grease into a sealed bearing. You will see grease eventually at the blade side.
Good tips John
Great video, I noticed when you engaged the deck, it really shakes, you might want to check the balance all 3 blades.
Thanks friend! Good tip!
Also I don't have a impact gun but I jam a peice of wood behind blade to keep it from turning and use a breaker bar to get blades off .
Brilliant video. Thank you. I ate a bearing a couple weeks ago on my JD D-140. Dang it. And I'd replaced all three spindle assembles about 2 years ago. This got me up and mowing again. And yes, embarrassed about replacing last time rather than rebuilding. This time a couple of bearings at TSC cost me $17, way cheaper. Then I ordered 10 bearings from Amazon for $16. Now to rebuild those spindles I had on the shelf.
I keep a hundred just to start the year off and busyness is good
I have a mower deck on a 1965 Cub Cadet that has the original bearings greaseable, still good
Since you used sandpaper and grease on the shaft it will not be a pressfitted bearing installation which is needed. The innerring of the bearing will now spin freely on the shaft = wrong.
good info!
You are correct. If the bearing is not a tight fit, apply loc-tite to make sure that the bearing turns and not the shaft inside the bearing.
I just bought an LA145 with 130 hours, it is probably ten years old but looks new, but the deck has a loose spindle, cant believe it, thought it would be like new... Thus... a mower deck bearing can fail in 130 hours on one of these if not greases, it does not look abused... and original owner and deck...
I paid 1000 Canadian, and that was a good to great steal...
Thanks for the video, if I have zerks, I will remove the inner bearing seals, and those belt guards are going so I can blow off the dust and debris to prevent rust... wish John Deere was more heavy duty... I have a 445 with the Kawasaki and the five foot mower I thought something was wrong with it so I bought the 145, but when the 145 spindle was screaming after an hour use, I fired up the 445 and it mowed my farm no problem, the mole hills dulled the blades, so I just slowed down for the wiry thick and tall grass...
Am going to head to a bearing shop for the best quality bearings, JD is just too overpriced.
Same for the oil filter and air filter for the Kawasaki...
Use old motor oil when you change oil and paint the bottom of deck with it
Take time to pressure wash it and dry first
Bearings going in a bit too easy. Might be needing to replace mandrel/spindle housing soon. I had a similar experience with my John Deere. Thanks for the video!
Good eye Gilbert you are right!
I noticed the same thing with my old Craftsman mower, even with new spindles. The outer race would spin in the mandrel, wearing it out quickly. A little green Loctite 640 sleeve retainer solved that problem. Kept the race from spinning. I'm going to use it on the Deere too. Can't hurt.
He belted them in from the inner race . That destroys the bearing .
Yes, I think I would have used sleeve and seal retainer on those.
In the elevator business I seem to remember replacement of bearings always required a Loctite bearing compound on the outer race and/or inner face to seal the bearing in the seat . I believe it helped prevent blowing out the bearing with a grease gun. Anyone know for sure?
JoeB
Those bearings have seals on both side greasing the deck will never get those bearings greased remove seal that sees the grease
I dont understand what you are saying here, you mean those grease zerts are no good?
@@robremlap4071 I'm not an expert, but I found this excellent video which explains it far better than I could: th-cam.com/video/d3eC2OIg85o/w-d-xo.html
@@robremlap4071 See this video: th-cam.com/video/d3eC2OIg85o/w-d-xo.html
If you have sealed bearings it does no good to grease it without removing one of the bearing seals.
@@pbrown6097 A grease gun puts out 10 000 psi with every pump them bearing covers don't stop it lol , they are not seals just loose fitting dust covers ya can pick em out with your fingernail. Grease until you see it come out both ends of spindle , the grease goes threw the bearings .
I usually don’t harp on safety, expecting people to have some common sense if they try something they saw on TH-cam. Sorry but wish this video would be restricted to adults or deleted!! The force at which that air impact spun that blade was evidence at how it could break or even cut fingers off. I hope no one would ever use their hand or foot as a brace that way! Brace it with a wooden 2x4 or something. The basic concept of this video in Identifying the problem with spindle bearings and replacing them was good content BUT NOT the use of the impact wrench the way he did. Sorry!
good tips!
Hey, Loved your video! I really liked you making it fun with the chickens and then the yellow lab. Also, thanks for cleaning up dog poop! Do the chickens try to peck dog and does dog chase chickens? 🤠
no they ignore each other
You forgot to remove inner seals.
Good video, I'm needing to do the same to my raggedly old 212. I was thinking I might need to replace the whole hub but I'll try your approach and hope that does it. I'm sure it will be way cheaper.
Easier to get brand new spindles with bearings in them which are sealed which means greasing is a waste of time.
Awesome! Thank you for taking the time to put this out there and share.. YOU THE MAN! 👍
John Deere said I needed a new deck, about $550.00. Thank the Lord I saw your video. This is ALL my deck needs. Thanks. Thanks. Thanks.
Would be a lot easier if you just unbolted the spindle from deck and do the work on a work bench or table, then you don’t have to worry about smashing a foot when the deck slips
work benches are nice.
Good video but why bother filling the spindles with grease when you're putting double sealed bearings in it? You can fill that puppy until the cows come home and it's not going to help those poor bearings.
You have to remove the inside seals.
I have to drop my deck on a D100. From a wheelchair. Gotta grind of the deck and paint it. Wife loves to use it
Right on
same old john deere issue with the shite paintwork on the deck. every one i have seen has its paint plaking off and rust creeping around the deck. you would think they would sort this issue. same as the seats splitting apart. you spend good money for a machine with a good name but the cosmetics quality is just nasty. good video though.
Can you explain how paint "plakes"? What exactly is "plaking"? Typical shite comment by someone who's barely literate...
Exactly my same opinion
It's because people don't clean the grass out of the deck after they finish cutting. A spray out with the garden hose each time will go a long way.
I blow my mower deck off with an air hose after every mow to get rid of that rust causin grass.
Good advice to blow deck off. We use our gas Stihl leaf blower for that purpose. We also flip the hood to blow any dust out, and the transmission ... in fact all of our machines gets dusted off every time the same way. (John Deere X300 - JD LX173 and JD 180
Same here! I have an MTD 48inch mower that is going into it's 16th season, RUST FREE. I have NEVER used water to clean the top OR bottom of the deck. Compressed air is KING!
I stopped 4 mins into it.. I do not see why you have to do the repair on a lawn? lose your parts in the grass and you are screwed. dont you have a garage to do these. Do you fix your cars on the lawn as well.. It just to me like this is not the proper way to do it..
I fix equipment wherever I find it. My work benches are always full of other projects. I also have a cheap metal detector that has saved me numerous times.
You explained step by step so simple and clear contrary to other videos where you dont know what language they speak. You are now my go to videos for my lawnmower needs...thanks Jeff
Always blow the deck and entire mower off with compressed air before putting it up for the day.
excellent advice!
On most John Deere mowers the belt diagram is on the bottom side of the running board ! :-)
Literally a backyard mechanic. I wonder how many parts you lost in the grass lol.
lol! I have a $25.00 kids metal detector that has helped me out on numerous occassions
@@JeffsLittleEngineService Before I built my shed I worked on a gravel driveway. It soon became a steel driveway.
anyone watching this in 2021 + I wouldn't waste time changing out bearings. You can get a complete deck rebuild kit from 8ten for $109 on Amazon or Ebay. Comes with 3 spindles, set of good blades, and a belt.
Just have to remove 4 bolts for each spindle and a whole lot easier. Not much more money in respect, and with as easy as deck comes off on a John Deere anyone with halfway sense can do. He is right about impact. If you don't have one, borrow one!! I got a can of yellow tractor paint and cleaned and painted underneath deck. Put everything on, and let leveled deck and was out only $130 shipping,tax, and all counting paint. Took 3 hours total. Put deck in sun with fan and paint dried quick! If you want to pay $130 ish + tax you can get kit pulleys too, but they have sealed bearings so if your's are fine save the money and just get spindles, blades, and belt.
Did my drive belt last year and do regular maintenance ( oil, plug, flters) every year and I have over 300 hours on my D-140 and it is like new from just doing basic maintenance. I mow 2 yards, too. Mine 2 acres and my mom's 1 acre and twice a month i drive through back field to do small cemetery. So don't let people knock your/a John Deere. They still a durable mower .
Yes, once you pull deck and look under you see a lot of made in China stamps,but the frame is solid and deck is 12 guage steal. 22 horse Briggs and Stratton is a beast of an engine. Gentlemen is right, keep top deck clean, especially if mowing early, late, or when wet. If clean when dry can blow grass right out or I sometimes just use broom.
But reply to this if anyone needs help fixing or looking for parts. I have seen pretty much everything you need to rebuild pretty much anything on the LA's and D series. Not trying to advertise for any company or anything like that, just trying to help as I know sometimes people need help. I thank gentleman who made video. Some people may not have the money to replace whole spindle assembly , but like i said that you can't beat 8ten's deck rebuild kit. Happy mowing fellers......
prices have gone down
Do you have a link to that kit or the part numbers
@@mwmceo6145
www.ebay.com/itm/293766351188?_trkparms=ispr%3D1&amdata=enc%3AAQAGAAAAoKdQyjiOMnyA8Lx8%2FdU9kmmkx2%2BuQeqoXGZZvA0eC%2BAZjitgNg3VnBn2RIAstmEpXsjNOnbVaCqaCQCIl2UWn8YA%2Fe7J1ABnC%2Fek3nHm%2B0eof81ftkz0%2B3jDFJTtgfC5fv3RYdGfuKlkrDOJosdXnxnwsv7HotdfFlRLnpn6WsQvyshWmJzDKQZV5SooW16Cm6l1YhODdQImvXPIpqd8Zfo%3D&chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-117182-37290-0&mkcid=2&itemid=293766351188&targetid=1262407448140&device=m&mktype=pla&googleloc=9013347&poi=&campaignid=12873932325&mkgroupid=116682574250&rlsatarget=pla-1262407448140&abcId=9300536&merchantid=137699836&gclid=CjwKCAjw_o-HBhAsEiwANqYhp3pq8v7XfwQdnoESe7GZxm8cuQBmsuKDPvQAoppI61-iDBZyWs6NSxoCSJgQAvD_BwE
Doesn't come with bolts for blades, so if your old ones bad you can find them at local hardware store for cheap (like $2-3 bucks).. I forget size. It's in manual tho.
Price has went up about $20 bucks for kit since spring, but still really good deal and breeze to put on.
May need to borrow a gear puller if you don't have one. May or May not need one. I have a hilly country yard, so were little hard to pull off. I ended up needing one . Other than that took like an hour -hour and a half counting sliding deck off and back on.
Many people complain that mower decks don't last that long - rust out. Mower decks must be thoroughly cleaned underneath after the last mowing of the year. Remove the deck - examine the mandrels for wear, check the blades, check the belt for cuts, and clean all clippings from the surfaces of the deck housing. You can double the life of your mower deck by doing so. Riding mower decks are very expensive.
Yes if the deck is worn to much find a good welding shop and they can make a ring to put where the spindle connects to the deck. When you put it back together you can use washers to get better alignment of the blades and pullies. It costed about 65 dollars in louisiana at a welding shop verses 450 for new deck and works like new now.
All these manufacturers should be ashamed of themselves for not installing grease fittings on the spindle housings. I have an old Cushman three wheeled front deck mower, and it has grease fittings. Haven't had to change the spindle bearings in fifteen years. Just acquired a Toro time cutter, and immediately took the spindle housings out and installed grease fittings in them. I used to have to change the bearings for the previous owner once a year. Just a make work project for the dealers.
They do come with grease fittings. No good though with sealed bearings. Lol.
@11:18 "A little tap with a rubber mallet here..." and the bolt slides out in fear. :) What tool are you using, an air impact wrench or an air impact driver?