Click here for a grease gun ➜ amzn.to/2HEEm1z Click here for a spindle assembly ➜ amzn.to/2wjOAxL Click here for bearings ➜ amzn.to/2M6pgpG Check out these other informative videos: Clean Under the Mowing Deck on a Riding Lawn Mower ➜ th-cam.com/video/RpURLWPNI1o/w-d-xo.html How To Un-Seize, Clean and Grease a Sealed Bearing ➜ th-cam.com/video/0J8z-n7dIOg/w-d-xo.html Remove The Mowing Deck From a Riding Lawn Mower ➜ th-cam.com/video/eQlGRlIDcC0/w-d-xo.html How To Install A Belt On A Riding Lawn Mower Tractor ➜ th-cam.com/video/UgW4gcPAWIs/w-d-xo.html Make sure to check out the Saloon here too… Click here for my website ➜ www.stevessmallenginesaloon.com/ Click here for my Parts and Tools Store ➜ www.amazon.com/shop/stevessmallenginesaloon Follow me on Facebook ➜ facebook.com/stevessmallenginesaloon Follow me on Instagram ➜ instagram.com/stevessmallenginesaloon/ Follow me on Twitter ➜ twitter.com/SteveSaloon The reason I did not put the nut back on before I hit the shaft is because that model has a tapered shaft at the top so you can't damage the threads! I do agree that it is good practice to put the nut back on though....
All threads can mushroom. We can see that all your work was prepped by the cleanliness of the deck/spindle/bearing and ease of removal. Anyone who's replaced a bearing knows they don't come out that easy are a dirty especially if they've been greased.
I assumed it was ok to wack the top like steve did because he has replaced hundreds of these. Pros do things diy people should avoid. He does a good job of explaining the basics but when you do something for a living you don't even realize all the things your brain is calculating. Cheers
I’ve found most home owners beat the crap out of their mowers and seldom do any service themselves but great tip for those home owners who do and those of us who work on mowers daily.
I did my spring service today on my riding mower. I didn't see any sort of grease fitting on my spindles, and two are starting to sound rather metallic when they turn. None of the three have play, which is good, but I guess it's time to take the deck back off and do this to directly grease my spindles! Edit: I was just looking up the spindles and bearings for my mower's deck, and I found this bit of info on the manufacturer's site: SPINDLE HOUSING WITH SEALED BEARINGS AND GREASE FITTING. On these style spindles, grease is used primarily as a water barrier to keep water from accumulating in the void area inside the spindle housing and around the bearings and spindle shaft. Any good wheel bearing grease applied with a standard grease gun may be used for this purpose. These style spindles should be checked and greased annually, more often if the deck is subject to unusually wet operating conditions. Models with grease fittings will still have sealed bearings inside. Spindles with grease fittings will also have a weep hole in the spindle housing to allow excess grease to be forced out through.
If you're savvy you can drill a hole and add a zerk to many things. Keep in mind where the strength of the part is and add one. Done this many times on moving parts that need lube.
These companies are screwing themselves - product loyalty is virtually non existent - they are like coke and Pepsi - there's no doubt they collude with one another - same with the big 3 auto makers -
been mechanic for a very long time and was always told that they had sealed bearings that the grease fitting was for show . However I was un aware that there was no grease in the bearing . OMS Thanks for that enlightenment sir.
I found this very same thing on my JD L130 lawn mower last year when one of the spindles started making noises. Couldn't believe it. I'd been religiously greasing everything - for nothing. All of these lawnmowers come from the same place with component parts, engine, trans, etc, and different paint jobs, maybe a little different bodywork. Also, JD didn't make it easy but I found the generic parts for most everything, oil filter, belts, bearings, transmission parts, etc, and save A LOT on parts. JD is VERY proud of their green and yellow parts!!
5 years ago my brother gave me his John Deere 110 mower in the 5 years he owned it he had replaced the engine twice he being a school teacher took it to the John Deere shop and they replaced the standard 19 horsepower single piston Briggs & Stratton engine he got another two years out of it before that engine blew up and he was done with it I got online order direct from Briggs & Stratton 22 horsepower v-twin but but the real kicker is that because I didn't order the John Deere sticker on the motor I saved 50 bucks with a Husqvarna sticker on the identical engine
Nuts & bolts that SNAP when torqued to the same specs as older parts have flooded the EXPENSIVE factory replacements and the dealers won't take back these JUNK MADE crap that is twice the price of non Deere parts that are often BETTER than factory parts as well. Original spindles were only fitted with cheap bushings in the first place instead of ball bearings.
I have been fixing small engines my whole life and even went to college for small engines repair. I learned more from your videos than I ever have anywhere else. Thank you.
@Rick Simpson -Farm implements 'back in the day' when anyone with common sense [conservative] greased their machines daily, the bearings had felt seals that relieved pressure as filled, seeing the grease escape, meant no more pumps of the gun. Over 50 years on some equipment, original bearings ;
@UCPXngN5DcNgUPuWTb7aMLgw Excellent point. I do not know what Steve knows (I love his videos) but I think that this is a fair point to bring up to the engineers. Than what is the point of the fitting? Does the new grease some how work it's way into the sealed bearing or something like this? Why is the fitting there?
Very helpful video. Thanks for the tip. I just finished rebuilding the mower deck on my John Deere LA145 lawn tractor. Found four of the six spindle bearings worn out so I decided to go ahead and replace all six bearings since the spindle housings themselves were still in good shape. I also added an additional zirk fitting to each spindle so when I service them with grease, I simply remove one zirk fitting out and grease the spindle with the other zirk fitting using the grease gun until I see grease come out the hole, which prevents from over greasing the spindles and it cleans out some of the dirty grease in the process. When completed, I simply reinstall the zirk fitting I had removed earlier. The bearings should last a good 10 to 12 years before the next replacement. Also noticed the powder coat is coming off that mower deck you are using as an example in your video, which is a very common problem. At the factory, John Deere only dips their mower decks in a vat of acid to etch the metal prior to powder coating them. The problem is their etching process leaves the mower deck surfaces way too smooth for the powder coat to adhere properly and over time it cracks causing moisture to get underneath it and eventually the powder coat flakes off exposing pitting corrosion. Makes one wonder if this was not done by design? My deck was so badly rusted and pitted that I had to take it to a shop and get the remaining powder coat and rust sandblasted off down to bare metal. I used a good self etching epoxy primer and repainted the deck John Deere Yellow and not only does it look like a new deck but also functions like new. The paint I used should last a good 20 years. I applied POR15 undercoat to the bottom side of the deck to keep it from rusting any further and to keep it protected. So far, I am very pleased with the results.
There's a point to note here about taking off one side of the seal on those bearings then pumping it full of grease when it's back on the mower deck. If you over pressure the grease, it will blow off the other side of that seal on the bearing and pick up dirt and debris in your bearings. I think it'd be better to pack it and replace that seal.
It's getting harder and harder to find spindles that even have grease nipples anymore. I've been in the lawn maintenance business as an owner operator for two decades, and also my own mechanic and have gone through more spindles and bearings than I can count in the last ten years than in the first ten I was in business. Needless to say, years ago when I started noticing the trend to sealed bearings and spindles without grease nipples I've also made it an automatic to service even brand new spindles before first using them. I too, remove the inner bearing seal on both bearings, but since I already have the bearing out, spindle nipple or no, I automatically just pack the bearings. I redo this once a month since the mowers are being used commercially. I don't bother replacing the inner seal as from my experience once the bearing seal is removed, no matter what some damage is done in the removal even if very minute. And most of the time the replaced seals come off again inside the spindle and can even damage the bearings getting caught in them with all the millions of rotations and constant vibration (even with "perfectly" balanced spindles/blades). And with the outer bearing seals keeping contaminates from entering there is no reason for the need of seals facing the inside of the spindle. But another unfortunate trend over the last decade I have discovered is poorly designed or cast spindles. In my area the land is very rocky, with tree types with shallow roots protruding above ground and very uneven ground. I used to go through a lot of blades and sometimes engine shaft keys from hitting unseen obstacles. I am forced to deal with many properties, that at least initially, have many obstacles that are just unseen even with careful initial inspection of the areas to be mowed. But in recent years I have had many di-cast spindles snap where bolts connect the spindles to the deck when obstacles are struck. Many times from a mere mole hill or bulging mole tunnels that was created in between mowing and is just a small pile of semi-loose dirt and the spindle housing breaks away from the bolts/deck. Many of these incidents even have minimal damage to none of still straight blades that only require a sharpening after the incident or no visible blade damage at all. So it is common from my experience in recent years that the sealed bearings outlast the actual spindles and I have back-up bearings and shafts I salvage from broken spindles. I own 6 riding tractors* in constant rotation and 1 Zero turn used for large flat open areas only due to the design nature and terrain I mow. Different brands including John Deere, Cub Cadet, Troy-Bilt, Toro(Z-turn) and Craftsman(x2) and I have had spindle housings break on all of them over the last decade. *I prefer riding tractors due to the nature of the hilly country as zero turns can't handle mowing across hill inclines due to the freely spinning front wheels. The worst situation, which is common for my commercial properties, are long, narrow and deep drainage ditches along roads that are also deep with steep inclines and can only be done with a zero turn by going up and down the ditches witch takes 4 times as long to mow from constantly turning around back and forth, than with a riding tractor that I can mow on steep inclines the full length of the ditches and all I need is to lean sideways so body weight maintains center of gravity (going beyond the recommended grade of an incline by manufacturers). Besides, my zero turn's deck is 50" compared to 42-46" rider decks, so not enough advantage to make it worth the trouble except for open acreage.
@@mattbaker5757 I feel your pain with spindle housings breaking . Used to happen to me , some times just a few days . I considered trying to convert a implement wheel hub but that's a lot of hassle , and thought the mower deck would just blow out Solved it by buying a grasshopper, solved the sidehill issues by swapping on a set of ATV tires
@@mattbaker5757what is your opinion of the TS 354XD Husqvarna rider? I’m 120 hours into mine on heavy sloping brush, 5 acres I noticed none in your fleet
These bearings failed on my Cub Cadet GT2544 tractor quite a number of years ago. When I went to buy the assembly, the mechanic did not have one and delivery was going to be a while. I really needed to get the grass cut. He sold me just the bearings and even told me to remove the two seals on the inside faces! I noted the number of the bearings......but touch wood......I have not had them fail again in probably 8 - 10 years! I do grease that spindle regularly though. Great video and great tip, Steve!
this happened 6 months after purchasing my brand new husky and the dealer wanted to charge me for repairs saying I didn't' t use it correctly. Ended up repairing cause it was still under warranty. Steve, great show. Love it from an Aussie down under.
I have found amazingly helpful hints by this guy. I have a large yard and use a riding mower. These short videos help my mower stay healthy and running. Thanks.
Great video Steve. I just replace my bearings with new ones, and packed them with grease. Hoping you might do a video on changing trans oil on John Deere D140. The JD says you can't change it, but there is a port on the top to do it. A video on how to disassemble a rear JD, and change the trans oil would help a lot of people. It could double the life of a mowers usage. Thanks again for all you do. This is probably the 10th video or so that has helped me with different problems. I pulled the trigger on a shirt and sticker to support the cause. KEEP EM COMING. THANKS!!
My father-in-law showed me that secret 25 yers ago and we made a drill guide to drill a greasing port for greaseless spindles. He worked for John Deere. We also rebuild the aluminum blocks that they say can be rebuilt. Great video thanks for sharing.
'Sleeving', cylinders, valve guides, to get years of extra life, was an old line repair used by conservative farm.. 'owners', to restore farm engines, "back when old Hector was just a pup" ;
I purchased a scotts 17hp lawn mower and yes I know its the la 115 or 110 John Deere mower. Well, I must say, Thanks! This will help me prolong the life of my mower!
Sealed bearings are designed to operate a long time in sealed condition. Removing the seal of the lower bearing will help when the cavity is filled. The top bearing however may lose grease. The seal from below will not go up due to gravity. Another problem might be popping the outside seals while pumping grease . My humble opinion would be to leave at least the top bearing with both seals, but it’s probably a good idea to leave both as sealed bearings. If you want you can remove the bearings every few years, pop the seals, refill the bearings with fresh grease and put the seals back in.
Agree 1000%. The beauty of sealed bearings are the low maintenance. They should last years before seal fails. Until then the bearings are perfectly lubricated. When they fail, pop them out and $20 later you're good for years more of mowing.
I think the grease can actually push past the seal, one more reason to leave the seal in place. The key is to give an outlet for the excess grease once the cavity is filled.
Steve, thanks for sharing this info. I tore apart the spindles on my 2 yr old John Deere E170 today. Bearings were sealed just like you showed. Not any more! I also realized that the deck was never properly leveled when it left the factory. Both jobs done in only two beers. Thanks again.
Thank you sir, I have a 2009 La165 I bought new. I have replaced 5 sets of spindles in 304 hours This undoubtedly will save me some cash and headaches. Prost brother!!!
HAA I have the exact same model and I'm in the process of rebuilding the deck now. New spindles, all pullies, belt and water hose fitting. I guess I know what I'm doing first when the spindles come in. Maybe...
You've got that right , They do that deliberately so the bearings fail prematurely and you're stuck buying parts , One very important thing is after disassembling the spindles , Drill and tap a small hole for a regular screw , This is a weep hole to prevent pressure from building up and blowing out the seals when pumping in grease , Also when you go to grease it again , It allows the old grease to flow out Be sure to drill and tap the weep hole opposite side of the grease fitting and towards the upper bearing , After adding grease , put the screw in and tighten so it's snug
Hey Steve I watched this video and when I bought 2 brand new spindles I took them apart and the same thing as in your video showed, the only thing I did different is I removed the inner seal but on the outer seal I drilled 4 small holes for grease relief and the way the top and bottom are made the new grease will keep the dirt and grime out of the bearings. Thanks for the video.
Steve, you're the best! So glad I found your channel! For the first time in my 65 years I've successfully rebuilt a carb and it worked to perfection! Thank you!
I learned from the maintenance manager at our shop, grease would actually pass through the seals in those "sealed" bearings. After installing new spindles in an old deck, I used the shop's Milwaukee electric grease gun to fill the spindles. After about 70 pumps, the grease came out the top and bottom of the spindle containing those sealed bearings.
I have had the same issue with a Chevy truck idler bearing and even with the pressure of a grease cup the grease won’t pass the dust cover. You actually have to do it to know.
I've seen this on other equipment and questioned why sealed bearings were used or designated as replacement. What I read years ago was when sealed bearings were used with a grease zerc in the housing , that the grease zerc was installed to keep moisture out of the cavity or housing. I guess the intention was that even if the bearings were rarely greased they would last longer. Larger spindle bearings have seals on one side only and must be installed with the open side to the grease zerc.
Just had both of my deck spindles replaced. Just like you said, bearings dry. Think I will take it apart again and try your trick and hope it will help. Once again, Thank You for your help and videos.
Thanks again Steve. I had the same issue on my White, Murray and John Deere tractors. However, the Murray didn't even have the grease fitting. I had to drill and tap a hole for the grease fitting.
Thanks very much for your postings...I'd searched high and low for information to fix my John Deere 125 and your site was the only one that showed me exactly what I was looking for.
Thank you Steve for the video & I just want to say that Im really just a tackle it myself kinda lady that isnt afraid of learning to do new things. Your instructions were simple enough to follow & execute, your insight as to getting the job done was appreciated. Keep making these videos please & also consider a few how to diagnose/troubleshoot problems with mowers that non-mechanically inclined folks who can only describe by sounds or dont know what the parts are actually called that we can view.
I did this on my new john deere. The hardest thing was removing and putting back the pulley wheels. They were pressed onto the spindle with great force. You can actually see the marks left on the spindle by the process. Working with a heavy deck from the top and bottom at the same time is a bit tricky. Allow plenty of time for the process. And it is metric. Have a 22 mm and 10 mm socket wrench handy for the John Deere.
That spindle flange nut is not metric. It does take a 22mm wrench, but the thread thread is 9/16-18. I galled one nut/shaft when I pulled both mine off after 13 years, while stripping the deck for re-painting, and tried to find a replacement locally. That nut is not a Big Box stocked size, even without the flange.
I was a John Deere mechanic for 2 decades and found this out years ago. I found it easier and cheaper just to replace the bearings rather then the whole spindle and take the inner seals out so the grease could reach the bearings.
YEP I DO UNDERTAND YOU GUYS CHARGES MY THE HOURS AT A RATING OF 80 DOLLARS HOURS MAKE IN TWO HOURS PLUS TAXES FIGURE IT HOW MUCH GOING TO BE THAT EXPENSE
Well, of course, it's cheaper to change the bearings than to change the whole spindle if you're referring to the jackshaft, the bearings, and the jackshaft housing all combined as an assembly and calling it A SPINDLE. I saw what you tried to do there! That's not cheaper nor faster than removing one seal on each bearing and just reusing them. To change the bearings, you have to remove the old ones, anyway. If they're not damaged, they'll be just as good as new ones - better AND CHEAPER if you just remove the seals and grease them. Slick move, though, throwing that spindle into the conversation. It wasn't a lie but very close kin to one! Sounds like you're STILL working for John Deere!
Word for sealed bearings, anyone realize the numbers, countless thousands of bearings, in every aspect, moving parts of each state of the art, modern Airliner? If not for modern sealed bearings, replaced at scheduled intervals depending on hours and 'cycles', they would be pretty busy mechanics... the 'Greasers' ;
I agree. I've seen so many helpful videos on YT but often with a surprising amount of down-votes. What bugs me is when those who down-vote don't disclose *why*. I myself don't mind a down-vote as long as a constructive criticism is added, thus one might learn something. But to down-vote without offering a reason why... anything but helpful.
Thank you, wish I would have found your video this morning when I had the deck off. No problem though I have all winter to take the deck off again and grease the bearings correctly now. Great info!!!!
Well I finally got around to this project Steve. I cant thank you enough for your help. My JD mower deck is now fixed properly. Once again thanks Steve.
Yea pop 2 seals out reassemble then pop the others out with grease gun. Sealed bearings are lubed from the factory. If you have to replace them get good quality bearing. And call it done.
My Dad had same problem, and also thought it was stupid....he bought new bearings though. He did remove the seal and grease it himself but I believe he put the seal back...now I can tell him to leave the seals off....thanks for the info....keep up the great work Steve.
I think that the grease fitting was an old design before they changed to a sealed bearing Many old cars needed greasing but now have sealed bearings. No greasing necessary. Please Comment if I am mistaken.
@@ElsieDee001 our old washer and dryer purchased in 1993 are still running 30 year later. In contrast, a new side loading washer has a life expectancy of 8 years. Their fancy design compels people to replace both.
Thanks for the info, Steve. Much, much appreciated! I have a relatively new John Deere D130 lawn tractor. I reviewed your videos about removing the mower deck (successful) and about the greasing of the bearings in the spindlel shaft. So, I contacted the JD supplier/repair shop about this concern. They agreed. The bearings are sealed on both sides. But the grease, they said was to only lubricate the SHAFT. Hmm? What about the bearings? They would replace the entire assembly for about $300.00 plus labour! What a rip off! So, again thanks to your videos I will do the job myself and save $$$$. PS: Where you have a 2 beer job, try a Canadian beer. You will only need one! Canuck Normand
used to work at a farm implement dealership and we sold several lines of lawn mowers, this is absolutely true. We were not allowed to remove these on new mowers, but for service work, I always asked the customer if they regularly greased their deck, if they said yes. I would pop these out, and let them know. I left them in if they didn't ever keep up with the maintenance. Good info!
My Husqvarna spindles lasted 18 years without grease fittings and now I'm going to replace them. I will be unsealing my bearings and installing grease fittings as well as weep holes. Great video! Thanks
I'm new to the riding mower maintenence but motorcycle wheels are similarly designed. Packing the hub with grease is recommended to keep water out of the cavity. If it's full of grease....
THANK YOU! I FOUND THIS OUT ON MY OLD HUSKEY 14 hp WISCONSON ENGINE whole thing was brand new 1968 and STILL RUNNING WITH THE FIRST SETS OF SHAFT BEARINGS REPLACED IN 1974 BUT NONE EVER SENCE! It has been taken of all its life greased right after every job a least whichever section(s) that had been used. The only changes that I have done to this unit is a starter motor and an Alternator instead of the original Starter/Generator/, Regulator and at the 8th year a new Delco Jell-battery w/side-posts replacing the old one back in 1975. Otherwise, it has never given any faults. The Real Key is "P.M."
I had A old cheap Murry Rider Mower. It had no Grease fittings on the spindles and the same with sealed bearings. I drilled and tapped in fittings. Did the same thing taking one seal off on each bearing. Filled that thing full of grease. The deck went from that loud rolling sound to complete smooth and quiet. This was also a issue on newer tractors to. Thanks for sharing this!!
This scam has been going on a very long time. If you have to buy a new spindle assembly, take it apart...the new bearings are sealed too! I ran across this back in the early '90's on an MTD I had then. On spindles without grease fittings it's an easy project to install some and set the bearings up right. Great video! Oh...at this moment you've got about 1200 mower spindle engineers downvoting you. 😁
L M Sure do pack em put golf ball size wad in the palm, grasp the bearing with your other hand/ fingers rotate as you push the grease in a little at a time Mr. Arvie always said go around twice!
That was brilliant Steve I have a 1972 edger trimmer JCPenney's two horsepower Briggs & Stratton engine the two bearings that run the shaft for the blade the same thing. It seems like one side when I used some spray lube allowed some of the fluid in but that was probably just because the damn thing is worn out so I'm going to try the same method again and see which side it has the most lack of sealing and pop that seal. The surgical chamber where the bearing sit in the shaft runs through there is no grease fitting I guess they felt that the sealed bearings would last a lifetime. Some of the biggest scams were like FRAM oil filters good Lord or the unleaded regular plus and super. If your car is octane rating is regular you can burn unleaded plus or unleaded super but it will not burn cleaner you will not get more gas mileage and you will not get any efficiency or performance benefits whatsoever it's all about controlling combustion. So the only reason why you would want to use a higher octane fuel would be that you are allowing ignition to occur closer to top dead center compression and you would need a fuel that would not pre ignite so your computer has that under control and yet you go to Wawa and what do you see four different blends of gasoline. Buyer beware Steve why don't you try some Kronenbourg. And for a cheap beer I like peels how about it
I’ve added this to my save list to follow it just as you’ve instructed. I’m a petite lady and have to do everything on my own. 💪🏻 Thank you for saving us future headaches and money. G d bless you abundantly.
Me too. 60 plus years and I am tired of being treated as if I don't know anything. It's great to have this kind of help so if I do get someone else to fix it, I can tell them this is what need to be done.
I would suggest removing the seal and hand pack the grease in. Then reinstall the seal. Do this every 75 - 100 hours. Also buy a full set of bearings for future use.
Great video, thankyou for sharing. If there's no grease nipple on the spindle, remove both bearing dust covers. Clean, repack with high temperature wheel bearing grease by hand. Pop dust covers back on, refit bearings in spindle. I prefer to use a copper hammer to remove threaded shafts. 👍🏻.
It’s true. Absolutely on point. Anyone who has had that teacher drag their fingernails down a chalkboard should know what a bearing seizing sounds like. With the same yet amplified effect. I installed a new set of bearings on all 3 spindles. Easy as pie. Just don’t put it off. My JD E140 was only 2 years old when this Funtime started. Thanks, Steve. Your video on this matter helped fix this pain in my backside.
I agree that it doesn't make sense that they put grease zerks on sealed bearings, but if you start pumping grease into those bearings, the seals are going to get pushed right off the bearings and then you'll be worse off than you were before. I've had a fair bit of experience with this issue. I would recommend that you just install good quality (SKF, NTN, Koyo, etc.) sealed bearings and don't grease them.
Just because they are called sealed bearings does not mean one can't remove the seal, repack, & then replace the seal. Bearings often arrive with grease applied too sparingly, so do this before placing the bearing into service & repack every year or 2 & even the cheaper bearings will last a long time. BTW, China manufactures high-quality bearings (Timken bearings have been made in China for many years), as well as lower-specced bearings. You can't blame China manufacturing if Deere/MTD choose the cheaper, lower-specced bearings in order to maximize their profits.
I have had three Craftsman Yard Tractors in 36 years living on the same 2 acre parcel of land. The first lasted 16 years and I only changed the oil every 5 years (after the first season of use) with Mobil 1 5W-30 oil. I never re-lubed the bearings and only replaced one of the three mandrels in the entire 16 years. The second one lasted me 14 years. Same oil change regimen and never had a mandrel bearing fail. I gave that one to my son and he used it for 3-4 more years. It caught on fire due to a broken fuel line and he lost the transmission as a result. My current one is 6 years old. The engine (a B&S 19HP single cylinder) died this past July due to a connecting rod failure. I later learned that this was not an uncommon problem with single cylinder B&S engines. The other two were Twin-V (two cylinder) IC B&S. I took the twin cylinder out of the damaged tractor, pressure washed it, changed the oil, air filter, fuel filter, plugs and relocated the choke (it had been sitting for two year, unused) and put it in my newer tractor chassis. I spun the engine around manually several times to circulate fresh lubricant and then started it up. It fired right up an I have been using it since then without issue. Cost me about $20 in parts and three hours of my time to pull the engines and do the swap.
So there was a subtitle saying "don't over grease" what does that mean? Is it because you will blow the other side of the seal off or overgreased bearings can overheat or create too much resistance?
Good job. My first ride-on mower was a used Homelite. It had some bearing noise, I seen the grease nipple and started pumping. Over half a tube of grease later I seen the first sign of grease coming out a bearing and it still was noisy. I taken the spindle apart and had to laugh, a grease nipple to nowhere.
i replaced the bearing on my cub cadet about a month ago and the other day noticed some noise coming from the deck so i pulled the deck out and dicoverd both blades had movement. i disassembled both spindles and to my dismay found both lower bearings were about to come apart. i thought it was odd to have sealed bearing in a spindle with a grease fitting. Ive since replaced them and thank you for shedding light on this problem because the new bearings would have had the same fate as the last. know it makes since to grease the spindles. Thanks for saving me $$$
Get higher grade bearings. Those are sealed for a purpose (pre- lubed and coated). You pull one side of the seals off, the grease will cause resistance due to the right clearances of these bearings. Also the grease will get hot and and liquify around the bearings and cause cavitation of the ball and races. Replace with higher end bearings then grease them.
High quality hostile environment sealed hybrid ceramic bearings are prefect for this. Then pack (do not overfill) the cavity with a good aero grease like Aeroshell 22 or Mobil 28. Pricy but you never look back.
Coincidently, I was reading an online Cub Cadet manual for their fab decks. They mention that the bearings are sealed and that you must grease them to displace moisture. I don't think it is a good idea to pop open that seal.
I have two 1979 tractors. 1 Roper and 1 Sears. Both built by Roper back when they were built to last. This year they are 40 years old. One mowing deck and never had to replace a spindle just belts. Been mowing at one acre + every summer since 1986.
I had that problem ... but I identified the cause as blade strikes ... rocks, sticks, stumps ... swapping out the pair of spindles one winter, I decided to keep the acreage better picked up and refrain from these blade strikes ... never had to replace spindles again ... spray lithium grease gets past the plastic covers well enough ... couple three squirts of grease in the zerk fitting for fun ... I figure if the spindle assembly breaks first, then the motor will last much longer ... just the way I mow ...
Been unable to get the blades loose , see now to drop the whole setup , leaving the blades on the shaft, and bet I find the same crap bearing setup - THANK YOU Steve !
I have a craftsman riding mower and the idle pulleys kept going out on the deck seats wants 45.00 for one and 65.oo for the other mine have spot welds and rivets I ground the rivets out and took hatchet and carefully spilt the spot welds and come to find out the bearings are just alternator bearings and auto zone had them in stock for 1.99 each drilled the spot welds and rivets out and bolted them back together now can change bearings easily
Hey I wanted to give you an update on the bearing grease issue taking out the seal so bearing can get grease. My previous post said how do you know when grease cavity is full abd how do you not blow out the bottom seal with hydrolic pressure. I saw another video that solves that issue. Just drill a small hole in spindle body and when grease starts comming out of drilled hole you know cavity is full and can stop pumping grease. My idea to plug hole when not in use is to put small sheet metal screw (short) in hole to plug it back off till next time.
I understand your reasoning, but I believe that once you take the inner seals out and start pumping grease in the hub, it's going to force the other seals out. Then you're slinging grease everywhere and the bearings will be exposed to contaminates degrading them quicker than ever. A full service should be done to your mower every spring, and while you're at it pop the bearings out, flush and regrease them.
Agreed...The bearings are sealed for a reason...for long life. The grease fitting is to lube the shaft...not the bearings. That bearing he had was fine. He could have packed some new grease in it an reinstalled the seal. I wouldnt run the bearing without the seal...imho
@@majwor3763 Why would the shaft need greasing? It can be absolutely dry (or completely rusty). It's the bearings that support the shaft and provide a low rotational friction assembly. Only the bearings need grease, the shaft needs nothing.
@@RSole9999 For exactly what you said...RUST... Water and clean metal dont mix. The shaft and the roller bearings are a machine fit...any rust scale and corrosion can be a problem when disassembling. This is not an area thats torn down for general maintenance. It may be assembled for three to 5 years before its tended to. I ran into this exact scenario racing motocross and offroad for over 20 years. The swing arm bolt would seize because of scale and rust and would NOT slide through the bearings during disassembling...practically wrecking the shaft bolt trying to beat it out. Since the shaft bolt was hollow end to end, we would weld one end shut and install a zerk fitting on the other end and drill small holes the lenght of the shaft. apply a grease gun during regular maintenance kept the shaft lubricated and pushed out any water. This made for EASY disassembly when doing a swingarm bearing service. I also own my own automotive repair shop and have been doing it for a living for 36 plus years.
@Maj Wor I agree that allowing the shaft between sealed bearings to rust, can be a huge and expensive problem. That problem is yet another example of an engineer trying to reinvent the wheel (or in this case, the bearing). Before the sealed bearing, the grease nipple allowed grease to surround the shaft (axel, spindle etc.) press through the bearings and coat everything in the housing with grease. Then, (before sealed bearings) we would also install separate seals, in the housing, outside of the bearings. This kept the grease where it was needed, most of the time. This is an example of trying to reinvent the wheel. Ham fisted operators would over grease the bearings (grease nipple), blowing the seals, which allowed contaminants to enter, thus reducing the life of the bearing and also causing failures during operation. If maintenance was carried out regularly, as you have said, regular, non-sealed bearings would far outlast sealed (maintenance free) bearings by a long shot. Whenever something is advertised to be “maintenance free” it just means that it will last longer for someone who is a lazy mechanic, to lazy to do proper maintenance. Sealed bearings were supposed to be “maintenance free”
A sealed bearing lasts longer than a bearing full of dirty grease because the zerk was not cleaned properly before greasing. Over greasing is worse than a factory sealed bearing, it runs to hot, because :more grease" is better. Yes, the grease will push out the seal then you have dirt entering from both sides. Thousands of mower decks out there and this guy sees a hundred, I rest my case.
The best, correct way to solve this issue, would be to drill a tiny hole in the one seal that remains. Then as you add grease, you would be turning the shaft, blade, by hand to ensure grease is filling the voids between the ball bearings. You then continue to add grease until, you begin seeing grease come out of both drill holes ( both the top and bottom bearings)... then you know it’s full. Phillip from Louisiana.
Thanks for the bearing info Steve. I have a John Deere deck, fairly new, that I have been greasing, I will be checking the bearings out. My pre retirement job was a vibration analyst, I monitored and inspected hundreds of failed bearings. If the sealed bearings were greased from the factory properly I would think they should last a couple years. I have inspected brand new sealed bearings and have found not all bearings are greased equally.
Thank you, I found the same thing. I also changed those cheap bearings with some skf bearings. But lo and behold, I had a spindle fail recently. I found the bearings in great shape. The spindle housing was wore out. Cheap material used in manufacturing the spindle housings. They get you coming and going. Bring our factories back to US for good quality materials and good craftsmanship. Spindles use to last years.
That is simple but genius. I have went through the spindle pulleys like water. Grease. No grease. Never mattered. I never thought of something so simple. I subscribed and will follow you till you stop posting. Thank you again brother. 👊
But before you out back the modified bearings, make sure the space between the bearings is clean. No sense pumping contaminated grease in because even good grease in a dirty space will corrupt the bearing races with grit.
Great video Steve. My Cub Cudet LTX 1045 spindle bearings worn out. Thanks for the tip on removing the bearings and fixing the design flaw of the spindles. You saved me a lot of money!
Steve you are awesome to share all of your knowledge and experience. I've watched so many of your videos and have learned so much. I like to fix my own equipment if I can and with your videos I can. Thank you so much for doing these.
Steve i just spoke to a john Deere service manager and he says still grease them because the grease will still keep the bearings cool,as i mentioned on my last message i did just that on my old jd x110 greasing those spindle bearings regularly,and luckily they didn't fail and she done 1300 hrs,great video though mate great learning opportunity as the more we know and understand our machines the longer there going to last and the better chance we will be able to get it going again if it lets is down on a job
Steve I just learned something about my lawn mower bearings I never knew and I have replaced mine 3 times on diff. mowers and also I never really knew exactly how the chain saw sharpening went. Thanks a millionn.
Wilkerson's mower shop: Grammar 101: In grammar school we were taught the correct use of you, your, you are, and you’re. In your sentence your use of “...your right...” should be correctly stated as, you are, or you’re, even better “...you are correct...”; recall right is a direction or location. Also, that which follows the word your belongs to the person you are conversing with.
@dog duck Chikin In my college economics class it was called planned obsolescence. Since that class in the 80's I've seen it over and over in all kinds of products. We have the tech and knowledge to make things last longer than needed basically but there is no money in that.
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Clean Under the Mowing Deck on a Riding Lawn Mower ➜ th-cam.com/video/RpURLWPNI1o/w-d-xo.html
How To Un-Seize, Clean and Grease a Sealed Bearing ➜ th-cam.com/video/0J8z-n7dIOg/w-d-xo.html
Remove The Mowing Deck From a Riding Lawn Mower ➜ th-cam.com/video/eQlGRlIDcC0/w-d-xo.html
How To Install A Belt On A Riding Lawn Mower Tractor ➜ th-cam.com/video/UgW4gcPAWIs/w-d-xo.html
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The reason I did not put the nut back on before I hit the shaft is because that model has a tapered shaft at the top so you can't damage the threads! I do agree that it is good practice to put the nut back on though....
Or use a heavy mallet that won't damage the threads. I winced when I saw that. You forgot about Murphy's Law, anything that can go wrong, WILL...
How about the o'finnegan law, murphy was an optomist!!
just grab a brass hammer next time
All threads can mushroom. We can see that all your work was prepped by the cleanliness of the deck/spindle/bearing and ease of removal. Anyone who's replaced a bearing knows they don't come out that easy are a dirty especially if they've been greased.
I assumed it was ok to wack the top like steve did because he has replaced hundreds of these. Pros do things diy people should avoid. He does a good job of explaining the basics but when you do something for a living you don't even realize all the things your brain is calculating.
Cheers
I’ve found most home owners beat the crap out of their mowers and seldom do any service themselves but great tip for those home owners who do and those of us who work on mowers daily.
When you only remove a deck once a year, it is a real pain in the butt for the average owner.
I did my spring service today on my riding mower. I didn't see any sort of grease fitting on my spindles, and two are starting to sound rather metallic when they turn. None of the three have play, which is good, but I guess it's time to take the deck back off and do this to directly grease my spindles!
Edit: I was just looking up the spindles and bearings for my mower's deck, and I found this bit of info on the manufacturer's site:
SPINDLE HOUSING WITH SEALED BEARINGS AND GREASE FITTING. On these style spindles, grease is used primarily as a water barrier to keep water from accumulating in the void area inside the spindle housing and around the bearings and spindle shaft. Any good wheel bearing grease applied with a standard grease gun may be used for this purpose. These style spindles should be checked and greased annually, more often if the deck is subject to unusually wet operating conditions. Models with grease fittings will still have sealed bearings inside. Spindles with grease fittings will also have a weep hole in the spindle housing to allow excess grease to be forced out through.
I'm thinking marine grease
When all else fails, read the manual! Good on ya!
Just viewed on greasing the deck with the Zerk fittings and video showed grease getting into those bearings by way of zero fittings.
If you're savvy you can drill a hole and add a zerk to many things. Keep in mind where the strength of the part is and add one. Done this many times on moving parts that need lube.
Good job exposing companies who want to keep selling you parts thank you!
You're Welcome...
These companies are screwing themselves - product loyalty is virtually non existent - they are like coke and Pepsi - there's no doubt they collude with one another - same with the big 3 auto makers -
You can get the bearings pretty cheap.
been mechanic for a very long time and was always told that they had sealed bearings that the grease fitting was for show . However I was un aware that there was no grease in the bearing . OMS Thanks for that enlightenment sir.
You're Welcome...
I found this very same thing on my JD L130 lawn mower last year when one of the spindles started making noises. Couldn't believe it. I'd been religiously greasing everything - for nothing. All of these lawnmowers come from the same place with component parts, engine, trans, etc, and different paint jobs, maybe a little different bodywork. Also, JD didn't make it easy but I found the generic parts for most everything, oil filter, belts, bearings, transmission parts, etc, and save A LOT on parts. JD is VERY proud of their green and yellow parts!!
Expensive parts
5 years ago my brother gave me his John Deere 110 mower in the 5 years he owned it he had replaced the engine twice he being a school teacher took it to the John Deere shop and they replaced the standard 19 horsepower single piston Briggs & Stratton engine he got another two years out of it before that engine blew up and he was done with it I got online order direct from Briggs & Stratton 22 horsepower v-twin but but the real kicker is that because I didn't order the John Deere sticker on the motor I saved 50 bucks with a Husqvarna sticker on the identical engine
Nuts & bolts that SNAP when torqued to the same specs as older parts have flooded the EXPENSIVE factory replacements and the dealers won't take back these JUNK MADE crap that is twice the price of non Deere parts that are often BETTER than factory parts as well. Original spindles were only fitted with cheap bushings in the first place instead of ball bearings.
I have been fixing small engines my whole life and even went to college for small engines repair. I learned more from your videos than I ever have anywhere else. Thank you.
You're Welcome...
Dang college for small Engine repair? I’ve learned by tinkering and getting tips from pros
@Rick Simpson -Farm implements 'back in the day' when anyone with common sense [conservative] greased their machines daily, the bearings had felt seals that relieved pressure as filled, seeing the grease escape, meant no more pumps of the gun. Over 50 years on some equipment, original bearings ;
Rick Simpson spelling wasn’t covered in your classes?
@UCPXngN5DcNgUPuWTb7aMLgw Excellent point. I do not know what Steve knows (I love his videos) but I think that this is a fair point to bring up to the engineers. Than what is the point of the fitting? Does the new grease some how work it's way into the sealed bearing or something like this? Why is the fitting there?
Very helpful video. Thanks for the tip. I just finished rebuilding the mower deck on my John Deere LA145 lawn tractor. Found four of the six spindle bearings worn out so I decided to go ahead and replace all six bearings since the spindle housings themselves were still in good shape. I also added an additional zirk fitting to each spindle so when I service them with grease, I simply remove one zirk fitting out and grease the spindle with the other zirk fitting using the grease gun until I see grease come out the hole, which prevents from over greasing the spindles and it cleans out some of the dirty grease in the process. When completed, I simply reinstall the zirk fitting I had removed earlier. The bearings should last a good 10 to 12 years before the next replacement. Also noticed the powder coat is coming off that mower deck you are using as an example in your video, which is a very common problem. At the factory, John Deere only dips their mower decks in a vat of acid to etch the metal prior to powder coating them. The problem is their etching process leaves the mower deck surfaces way too smooth for the powder coat to adhere properly and over time it cracks causing moisture to get underneath it and eventually the powder coat flakes off exposing pitting corrosion. Makes one wonder if this was not done by design? My deck was so badly rusted and pitted that I had to take it to a shop and get the remaining powder coat and rust sandblasted off down to bare metal. I used a good self etching epoxy primer and repainted the deck John Deere Yellow and not only does it look like a new deck but also functions like new. The paint I used should last a good 20 years. I applied POR15 undercoat to the bottom side of the deck to keep it from rusting any further and to keep it protected. So far, I am very pleased with the results.
Better off using bed liner urethane
I also saw a guy drill a pin hole to let the excess grease escape, in order to prevent grease pushing on the outer seal.
There's a point to note here about taking off one side of the seal on those bearings then pumping it full of grease when it's back on the mower deck. If you over pressure the grease, it will blow off the other side of that seal on the bearing and pick up dirt and debris in your bearings. I think it'd be better to pack it and replace that seal.
A serviceable bearing will allow grease to pass beyond both the bearing and the seal. A sealed bearing will not.
What I used to do was remove the inner seal , and drill a 1/64 hole in outer
It's getting harder and harder to find spindles that even have grease nipples anymore. I've been in the lawn maintenance business as an owner operator for two decades, and also my own mechanic and have gone through more spindles and bearings than I can count in the last ten years than in the first ten I was in business. Needless to say, years ago when I started noticing the trend to sealed bearings and spindles without grease nipples I've also made it an automatic to service even brand new spindles before first using them.
I too, remove the inner bearing seal on both bearings, but since I already have the bearing out, spindle nipple or no, I automatically just pack the bearings. I redo this once a month since the mowers are being used commercially. I don't bother replacing the inner seal as from my experience once the bearing seal is removed, no matter what some damage is done in the removal even if very minute. And most of the time the replaced seals come off again inside the spindle and can even damage the bearings getting caught in them with all the millions of rotations and constant vibration (even with "perfectly" balanced spindles/blades). And with the outer bearing seals keeping contaminates from entering there is no reason for the need of seals facing the inside of the spindle.
But another unfortunate trend over the last decade I have discovered is poorly designed or cast spindles. In my area the land is very rocky, with tree types with shallow roots protruding above ground and very uneven ground. I used to go through a lot of blades and sometimes engine shaft keys from hitting unseen obstacles. I am forced to deal with many properties, that at least initially, have many obstacles that are just unseen even with careful initial inspection of the areas to be mowed.
But in recent years I have had many di-cast spindles snap where bolts connect the spindles to the deck when obstacles are struck. Many times from a mere mole hill or bulging mole tunnels that was created in between mowing and is just a small pile of semi-loose dirt and the spindle housing breaks away from the bolts/deck. Many of these incidents even have minimal damage to none of still straight blades that only require a sharpening after the incident or no visible blade damage at all. So it is common from my experience in recent years that the sealed bearings outlast the actual spindles and I have back-up bearings and shafts I salvage from broken spindles. I own 6 riding tractors* in constant rotation and 1 Zero turn used for large flat open areas only due to the design nature and terrain I mow. Different brands including John Deere, Cub Cadet, Troy-Bilt, Toro(Z-turn) and Craftsman(x2) and I have had spindle housings break on all of them over the last decade.
*I prefer riding tractors due to the nature of the hilly country as zero turns can't handle mowing across hill inclines due to the freely spinning front wheels. The worst situation, which is common for my commercial properties, are long, narrow and deep drainage ditches along roads that are also deep with steep inclines and can only be done with a zero turn by going up and down the ditches witch takes 4 times as long to mow from constantly turning around back and forth, than with a riding tractor that I can mow on steep inclines the full length of the ditches and all I need is to lean sideways so body weight maintains center of gravity (going beyond the recommended grade of an incline by manufacturers). Besides, my zero turn's deck is 50" compared to 42-46" rider decks, so not enough advantage to make it worth the trouble except for open acreage.
@@mattbaker5757 I feel your pain with spindle housings breaking . Used to happen to me , some times just a few days . I considered trying to convert a implement wheel hub but that's a lot of hassle , and thought the mower deck would just blow out
Solved it by buying a grasshopper, solved the sidehill issues by swapping on a set of ATV tires
@@mattbaker5757what is your opinion of the TS 354XD Husqvarna rider? I’m 120 hours into mine on heavy sloping brush, 5 acres
I noticed none in your fleet
These bearings failed on my Cub Cadet GT2544 tractor quite a number of years ago. When I went to buy the assembly, the mechanic did not have one and delivery was going to be a while. I really needed to get the grass cut. He sold me just the bearings and even told me to remove the two seals on the inside faces! I noted the number of the bearings......but touch wood......I have not had them fail again in probably 8 - 10 years! I do grease that spindle regularly though. Great video and great tip, Steve!
Right on
this happened 6 months after purchasing my brand new husky and the dealer wanted to charge me for repairs saying I didn't' t use it correctly. Ended up repairing cause it was still under warranty. Steve, great show. Love it from an Aussie down under.
Thanks mate!
Also and Aussie, and I think this guy is great!
More beers 🍺 please ❤😂😂😂
I have found amazingly helpful hints by this guy. I have a large yard and use a riding mower. These short videos help my mower stay healthy and running. Thanks.
Thank You...and You're Welcome...
Great video Steve. I just replace my bearings with new ones, and packed them with grease. Hoping you might do a video on changing trans oil on John Deere D140. The JD says you can't change it, but there is a port on the top to do it. A video on how to disassemble a rear JD, and change the trans oil would help a lot of people. It could double the life of a mowers usage. Thanks again for all you do. This is probably the 10th video or so that has helped me with different problems. I pulled the trigger on a shirt and sticker to support the cause. KEEP EM COMING. THANKS!!
My father-in-law showed me that secret 25 yers ago and we made a drill guide to drill a greasing port for greaseless spindles. He worked for John Deere. We also rebuild the aluminum blocks that they say can be rebuilt. Great video thanks for sharing.
That is awesome!
'Sleeving', cylinders, valve guides, to get years of extra life, was an old line repair used by conservative farm.. 'owners', to restore farm engines, "back when old Hector was just a pup" ;
Switching over to synthetic, maybe AMSOIL.
Honest guy. Refreshing.
Thank You...
I found you a while back and it pays to watch. I'll check out my mowers in the morning. Thank you Steve.
You're Welcome...
I purchased a scotts 17hp lawn mower and yes I know its the la 115 or 110 John Deere mower.
Well, I must say, Thanks!
This will help me prolong the life of my mower!
Good luck!
Sealed bearings are designed to operate a long time in sealed condition. Removing the seal of the lower bearing will help when the cavity is filled. The top bearing however may lose grease. The seal from below will not go up due to gravity. Another problem might be popping the outside seals while pumping grease . My humble opinion would be to leave at least the top bearing with both seals, but it’s probably a good idea to leave both as sealed bearings. If you want you can remove the bearings every few years, pop the seals, refill the bearings with fresh grease and put the seals back in.
Agree 1000%. The beauty of sealed bearings are the low maintenance. They should last years before seal fails. Until then the bearings are perfectly lubricated. When they fail, pop them out and $20 later you're good for years more of mowing.
As Steve said, there’s no way for grease to get in there. Stands to reason that there’s also no way for grease to get out of there.
I think the grease can actually push past the seal, one more reason to leave the seal in place. The key is to give an outlet for the excess grease once the cavity is filled.
Steve, thanks for sharing this info. I tore apart the spindles on my 2 yr old John Deere E170 today. Bearings were sealed just like you showed. Not any more!
I also realized that the deck was never properly leveled when it left the factory.
Both jobs done in only two beers.
Thanks again.
Right on
Good job, Steve. It's nice to see an honest TH-camr getting some traffic.
Thank You...
I just pulled the spindles apart on mine and found the same thing. Thank you for the video!
You're Welcome...
Thank you sir, I have a 2009 La165 I bought new. I have replaced 5 sets of spindles in 304 hours
This undoubtedly will save me some cash and headaches. Prost brother!!!
HAA I have the exact same model and I'm in the process of rebuilding the deck now. New spindles, all pullies, belt and water hose fitting. I guess I know what I'm doing first when the spindles come in. Maybe...
Right on....
You've got that right , They do that deliberately so the bearings fail prematurely and you're stuck buying parts , One very important thing is after disassembling the spindles , Drill and tap a small hole for a regular screw , This is a weep hole to prevent pressure from building up and blowing out the seals when pumping in grease , Also when you go to grease it again , It allows the old grease to flow out
Be sure to drill and tap the weep hole opposite side of the grease fitting and towards the upper bearing , After adding grease , put the screw in and tighten so it's snug
Or leave the weep hole open, grease will keep it plugged shut.
Hey Steve I watched this video and when I bought 2 brand new spindles I took them apart and the same thing as in your video showed, the only thing I did different is I removed the inner seal but on the outer seal I drilled 4 small holes for grease relief and the way the top and bottom are made the new grease will keep the dirt and grime out of the bearings. Thanks for the video.
Steve, you're the best! So glad I found your channel! For the first time in my 65 years I've successfully rebuilt a carb and it worked to perfection! Thank you!
Fantastic!
I learned from the maintenance manager at our shop, grease would actually pass through the seals in those "sealed" bearings. After installing new spindles in an old deck, I used the shop's Milwaukee electric grease gun to fill the spindles. After about 70 pumps, the grease came out the top and bottom of the spindle containing those sealed bearings.
I have had the same issue with a Chevy truck idler bearing and even with the pressure of a grease cup the grease won’t pass the dust cover. You actually have to do it to know.
Sounds like a waste of grease
@@NPC-et9ik Only alternative would be to access the individual bearings on a regular basis. Suit yourself...
I've seen this on other equipment and questioned why sealed bearings were used or designated as replacement. What I read years ago was when sealed bearings were used with a grease zerc in the housing , that the grease zerc was installed to keep moisture out of the cavity or housing. I guess the intention was that even if the bearings were rarely greased they would last longer. Larger spindle bearings have seals on one side only and must be installed with the open side to the grease zerc.
Bingo!
Just had both of my deck spindles replaced. Just like you said, bearings dry. Think I will take it apart again and try your trick and hope it will help. Once again, Thank You for your help and videos.
Good luck!
Thanks again Steve. I had the same issue on my White, Murray and John Deere tractors. However, the Murray didn't even have the grease fitting. I had to drill and tap a hole for the grease fitting.
I always felt like I was greasing my Simplicity for nothing. Always replacing my spindle bearings. Great tip Steve, Thanks
You're Welcome...
things we never think about or remeber....you're my favorite lawn mower guy now Steve.
Thank You...
I drilled small holes into both inner seals and snapped them back into the bearing, I also packed the bearing before I put the seal back on.
Thanks very much for your postings...I'd searched high and low for information to fix my John Deere 125 and your site was the only one that showed me exactly what I was looking for.
Glad I could help
Steve you just saved me and my family a few hundreds of dollars. Thanks and prosper well my awesome friend.
Thank You...and You're Welcome...
Great tip Steve - you're the man! You will save people a lot of money on service fees & parts. Keep up the good work!
Thanks, will do!
Thank you Steve for the video & I just want to say that Im really just a tackle it myself kinda lady that isnt afraid of learning to do new things. Your instructions were simple enough to follow & execute, your insight as to getting the job done was appreciated. Keep making these videos please & also consider a few how to diagnose/troubleshoot problems with mowers that non-mechanically inclined folks who can only describe by sounds or dont know what the parts are actually called that we can view.
Clearly, you have live and faith in your heart... Thank you SO MUCH!
I did this on my new john deere. The hardest thing was removing and putting back the pulley wheels.
They were pressed onto the spindle with great force. You can actually see the marks left on the spindle by the process.
Working with a heavy deck from the top and bottom at the same time is a bit tricky.
Allow plenty of time for the process. And it is metric. Have a 22 mm and 10 mm socket wrench handy for the John Deere.
That spindle flange nut is not metric. It does take a 22mm wrench, but the thread thread is 9/16-18. I galled one nut/shaft when I pulled both mine off after 13 years, while stripping the deck for re-painting, and tried to find a replacement locally. That nut is not a Big Box stocked size, even without the flange.
I was a John Deere mechanic for 2 decades and found this out years ago. I found it easier and cheaper just to replace the bearings rather then the whole spindle and take the inner seals out so the grease could reach the bearings.
YEP I DO UNDERTAND YOU GUYS CHARGES MY THE HOURS AT A RATING OF 80 DOLLARS HOURS MAKE IN TWO HOURS PLUS TAXES FIGURE IT HOW MUCH GOING TO BE THAT EXPENSE
I just bought a John Deer riding mower thanks for the tip.
@@pascualhernandez4949 That's whatever you just said for ya
@@pascualhernandez4949 R U O K??? BLINK ONCE IF NO AND ONCE FOR YES!
Well, of course, it's cheaper to change the bearings than to change the whole spindle if you're referring to the jackshaft, the bearings, and the jackshaft housing all combined as an assembly and calling it A SPINDLE. I saw what you tried to do there! That's not cheaper nor faster than removing one seal on each bearing and just reusing them. To change the bearings, you have to remove the old ones, anyway. If they're not damaged, they'll be just as good as new ones - better AND CHEAPER if you just remove the seals and grease them. Slick move, though, throwing that spindle into the conversation. It wasn't a lie but very close kin to one! Sounds like you're STILL working for John Deere!
And people click a thumbs down on this bit of brilliance? Must be bearing and spindle salesmen
That's what I was thinking
Pabst Blue Ribbon fans
Word for sealed bearings, anyone realize the numbers, countless thousands of bearings, in every aspect, moving parts of each state of the art, modern Airliner? If not for modern sealed bearings, replaced at scheduled intervals depending on hours and 'cycles', they would be pretty busy mechanics... the 'Greasers' ;
Its a chinese bearing salesman. The chinese dont make grease for sale in 🇺🇸 USA.
I agree. I've seen so many helpful videos on YT but often with a surprising amount of down-votes. What bugs me is when those who down-vote don't disclose *why*. I myself don't mind a down-vote as long as a constructive criticism is added, thus one might learn something. But to down-vote without offering a reason why... anything but helpful.
Thank you, wish I would have found your video this morning when I had the deck off. No problem though I have all winter to take the deck off again and grease the bearings correctly now. Great info!!!!
Glad it was helpful!
Well I finally got around to this project Steve. I cant thank you enough for your help. My JD mower deck is now fixed properly. Once again thanks Steve.
Fantastic!
Thanks as a women who does most of my own mechanic work all help I can get.
You're Welcome...
Yea pop 2 seals out reassemble then pop the others out with grease gun. Sealed bearings are lubed from the factory.
If you have to replace them get good quality bearing. And call it done.
Rob Boat , had to scroll way down in the "expert" comments to see if anyone else noticed that!
My Dad had same problem, and also thought it was stupid....he bought new bearings though. He did remove the seal and grease it himself but I believe he put the seal back...now I can tell him to leave the seals off....thanks for the info....keep up the great work Steve.
Good stuff!
Always love beating those made to fail products. Well Done!!
I think that the grease fitting was an old design before they changed to a sealed bearing
Many old cars needed greasing but now have sealed bearings. No greasing necessary.
Please Comment if I am mistaken.
Thank You...
@@billrundell2097 More like no greasing allowed.
@sploofmonkey
It's not a flaw, it is intentional. At least on the manufacturers end.
Major pain to us. Profitable to them...
Planned obsolescence.
Planned obsolescence is standard in contemporary engineering, thank you for fighting the good fight!
You're Welcome...
Planned obsolescence has been around at least since the 1960s. The quality of the parts has gotten poorer, too.
@@ElsieDee001greed, unadulterated GREED.
Now I gotta find a dictionary - thanks
@@ElsieDee001 our old washer and dryer purchased in 1993 are still running 30 year later. In contrast, a new side loading washer has a life expectancy of 8 years. Their fancy design compels people to replace both.
Thanks for the info, Steve. Much, much appreciated! I have a relatively new John Deere D130 lawn tractor. I reviewed your videos about removing the mower deck (successful) and about the greasing of the bearings in the spindlel shaft. So, I contacted the JD supplier/repair shop about this concern. They agreed. The bearings are sealed on both sides. But the grease, they said was to only lubricate the SHAFT. Hmm? What about the bearings? They would replace the entire assembly for about $300.00 plus labour! What a rip off! So, again thanks to your videos I will do the job myself and save $$$$.
PS: Where you have a 2 beer job, try a Canadian beer. You will only need one!
Canuck Normand
You're Welcome...and Thank You...
used to work at a farm implement dealership and we sold several lines of lawn mowers, this is absolutely true. We were not allowed to remove these on new mowers, but for service work, I always asked the customer if they regularly greased their deck, if they said yes. I would pop these out, and let them know. I left them in if they didn't ever keep up with the maintenance. Good info!
Right on Justin!
My Husqvarna spindles lasted 18 years without grease fittings and now I'm going to replace them. I will be unsealing my bearings and installing grease fittings as well as weep holes. Great video! Thanks
I'm new to the riding mower maintenence but motorcycle wheels are similarly designed. Packing the hub with grease is recommended to keep water out of the cavity. If it's full of grease....
THANK YOU! I FOUND THIS OUT ON MY OLD HUSKEY 14 hp WISCONSON ENGINE whole thing was brand new 1968 and STILL RUNNING WITH THE FIRST SETS OF SHAFT BEARINGS REPLACED IN 1974 BUT NONE EVER SENCE! It has been taken of all its life greased right after every job a least whichever section(s) that had been used. The only changes that I have done to this unit is a starter motor and an Alternator instead of the original Starter/Generator/, Regulator and at the 8th year a new Delco Jell-battery w/side-posts replacing the old one back in 1975. Otherwise, it has never given any faults.
The Real Key is "P.M."
I had A old cheap Murry Rider Mower. It had no Grease fittings on the spindles and the same with sealed bearings. I drilled and tapped in fittings. Did the same thing taking one seal off on each bearing. Filled that thing full of grease. The deck went from that loud rolling sound to complete smooth and quiet. This was also a issue on newer tractors to. Thanks for sharing this!!
Right on Ricky! You're Welcome...
This scam has been going on a very long time. If you have to buy a new spindle assembly, take it apart...the new bearings are sealed too! I ran across this back in the early '90's on an MTD I had then. On spindles without grease fittings it's an easy project to install some and set the bearings up right. Great video! Oh...at this moment you've got about 1200 mower spindle engineers downvoting you. 😁
Who remembers packing bearing by hand years ago?
Still do every time I do wheel bearings on my old 94 trucks
L M
Sure do pack em put golf ball size wad in the palm, grasp the bearing with your other hand/ fingers rotate as you push the grease in a little at a time Mr. Arvie always said go around twice!
Yeah,in the Army.
Still do today .
Yes, I re-packed front wheel bearings...
Learned to pack bearings in high school FFA class.Other than reading,I use things I learned in there more than any other class.Day in and day out.
That was brilliant Steve I have a 1972 edger trimmer JCPenney's two horsepower Briggs & Stratton engine the two bearings that run the shaft for the blade the same thing. It seems like one side when I used some spray lube allowed some of the fluid in but that was probably just because the damn thing is worn out so I'm going to try the same method again and see which side it has the most lack of sealing and pop that seal. The surgical chamber where the bearing sit in the shaft runs through there is no grease fitting I guess they felt that the sealed bearings would last a lifetime. Some of the biggest scams were like FRAM oil filters good Lord or the unleaded regular plus and super. If your car is octane rating is regular you can burn unleaded plus or unleaded super but it will not burn cleaner you will not get more gas mileage and you will not get any efficiency or performance benefits whatsoever it's all about controlling combustion. So the only reason why you would want to use a higher octane fuel would be that you are allowing ignition to occur closer to top dead center compression and you would need a fuel that would not pre ignite so your computer has that under control and yet you go to Wawa and what do you see four different blends of gasoline. Buyer beware Steve why don't you try some Kronenbourg. And for a cheap beer I like peels how about it
I’ve added this to my save list to follow it just as you’ve instructed. I’m a petite lady and have to do everything on my own. 💪🏻
Thank you for saving us future headaches and money.
G d bless you abundantly.
Thank You...
Me too. 60 plus years and I am tired of being treated as if I don't know anything. It's great to have this kind of help so if I do get someone else to fix it, I can tell them this is what need to be done.
I would suggest removing the seal and hand pack the grease in. Then reinstall the seal. Do this every 75 - 100 hours. Also buy a full set of bearings for future use.
I would suggest just replacing the bearing's once a year instead of the hassle! The bearing's cost less than a dollar a piece!!
@@brosefmcman8264 Really? I can't find any under $15
@@brosefmcman8264 ?? What country are you in?
@@brosefmcman8264 Not at the Jd dealer, they would charge you $20 for one of those
@@brosefmcman8264 their 13$ each X2 each tower some have 2-3 towers. canada
Great video, thankyou for sharing. If there's no grease nipple on the spindle, remove both bearing dust covers. Clean, repack with high temperature wheel bearing grease by hand. Pop dust covers back on, refit bearings in spindle. I prefer to use a copper hammer to remove threaded shafts. 👍🏻.
It’s true. Absolutely on point. Anyone who has had that teacher drag their fingernails down a chalkboard should know what a bearing seizing sounds like. With the same yet amplified effect. I installed a new set of bearings on all 3 spindles. Easy as pie. Just don’t put it off. My JD E140 was only 2 years old when this Funtime started. Thanks, Steve. Your video on this matter helped fix this pain in my backside.
I agree that it doesn't make sense that they put grease zerks on sealed bearings, but if you start pumping grease into those bearings, the seals are going to get pushed right off the bearings and then you'll be worse off than you were before. I've had a fair bit of experience with this issue. I would recommend that you just install good quality (SKF, NTN, Koyo, etc.) sealed bearings and don't grease them.
I agree, you are correct Kyle & don't directly smack the exposed thread on the driveshaft with a hammer !
I also think the issue is the quality of the bearing. Remove the zerk and plug it. Use better bearings and just replace them every decade or so
Very well put...A set of bearings is 25 bucks..Once every 10 years? Big deal....
phanttomracer ffd
Njttrerrgm. Hg
Just because they are called sealed bearings does not mean one can't remove the seal, repack, & then replace the seal. Bearings often arrive with grease applied too sparingly, so do this before placing the bearing into service & repack every year or 2 & even the cheaper bearings will last a long time. BTW, China manufactures high-quality bearings (Timken bearings have been made in China for many years), as well as lower-specced bearings. You can't blame China manufacturing if Deere/MTD choose the cheaper, lower-specced bearings in order to maximize their profits.
Thanks for the info. One of my viewers told me about your channel. You have some great info
You're Welcome...and Thank You...
You are a hundred percent correct, don't know how many I've done over the years , nice to see you doing a vid , good job , !
Thank You...
I have had three Craftsman Yard Tractors in 36 years living on the same 2 acre parcel of land. The first lasted 16 years and I only changed the oil every 5 years (after the first season of use) with Mobil 1 5W-30 oil. I never re-lubed the bearings and only replaced one of the three mandrels in the entire 16 years. The second one lasted me 14 years. Same oil change regimen and never had a mandrel bearing fail. I gave that one to my son and he used it for 3-4 more years. It caught on fire due to a broken fuel line and he lost the transmission as a result. My current one is 6 years old. The engine (a B&S 19HP single cylinder) died this past July due to a connecting rod failure. I later learned that this was not an uncommon problem with single cylinder B&S engines. The other two were Twin-V (two cylinder) IC B&S. I took the twin cylinder out of the damaged tractor, pressure washed it, changed the oil, air filter, fuel filter, plugs and relocated the choke (it had been sitting for two year, unused) and put it in my newer tractor chassis. I spun the engine around manually several times to circulate fresh lubricant and then started it up. It fired right up an I have been using it since then without issue. Cost me about $20 in parts and three hours of my time to pull the engines and do the swap.
So there was a subtitle saying "don't over grease" what does that mean? Is it because you will blow the other side of the seal off or overgreased bearings can overheat or create too much resistance?
My mower is 16 years old and is running great. It's got a Briggsstratton engine.
@UNFINISHED FOOTSTEPS I bought a new priming bulb for it a while back. I also put fully synthetic oil in the engine for longer life. Xx
Good job. My first ride-on mower was a used Homelite. It had some bearing noise, I seen the grease nipple and started pumping. Over half a tube of grease later I seen the first sign of grease coming out a bearing and it still was noisy. I taken the spindle apart and had to laugh, a grease nipple to nowhere.
Hopefully you salvaged all that good grease and put it back into your grease gun.
i replaced the bearing on my cub cadet about a month ago and the other day noticed some noise coming from the deck so i pulled the deck out and dicoverd both blades had movement. i disassembled both spindles and to my dismay found both lower bearings were about to come apart. i thought it was odd to have sealed bearing in a spindle with a grease fitting. Ive since replaced them and thank you for shedding light on this problem because the new bearings would have had the same fate as the last. know it makes since to grease the spindles. Thanks for saving me $$$
You're Welcome...
Get higher grade bearings. Those are sealed for a purpose (pre- lubed and coated). You pull one side of the seals off, the grease will cause resistance due to the right clearances of these bearings. Also the grease will get hot and and liquify around the bearings and cause cavitation of the ball and races. Replace with higher end bearings then grease them.
High quality hostile environment sealed hybrid ceramic bearings are prefect for this. Then pack (do not overfill) the cavity with a good aero grease like Aeroshell 22 or Mobil 28. Pricy but you never look back.
Coincidently, I was reading an online Cub Cadet manual for their fab decks. They mention that the bearings are sealed and that you must grease them to displace moisture. I don't think it is a good idea to pop open that seal.
I just do a couple small holes so the grease gets in but doesn't change the bearings.
Drill lol
But recommend the better bearings for sure
Great information Steve! Just replaced both sides in my JD. Gonna take 'em back off and do what you said. Thanks!
Right on Lynn...
I have two 1979 tractors. 1 Roper and 1 Sears. Both built by Roper back when they were built to last. This year they are 40 years old. One mowing deck and never had to replace a spindle just belts. Been mowing at one acre + every summer since 1986.
I had that problem ... but I identified the cause as blade strikes ... rocks, sticks, stumps ... swapping out the pair of spindles one winter, I decided to keep the acreage better picked up and refrain from these blade strikes ... never had to replace spindles again ... spray lithium grease gets past the plastic covers well enough ... couple three squirts of grease in the zerk fitting for fun ...
I figure if the spindle assembly breaks first, then the motor will last much longer ... just the way I mow ...
Steve, what breaks down first? The mower or the deck? I haven't found a rider yet that the deck outlasts the mower.
Your observation does not match my reality.
@@tommak6516 Your reality does not match my observation.
@@hairylarry6167 Which means one of us is either stupid, crazy and/or a moron?
Been unable to get the blades loose , see now to drop the whole setup , leaving the blades on the shaft, and bet I find the same crap bearing setup - THANK YOU Steve !
You're Welcome...
I have a craftsman riding mower and the idle pulleys kept going out on the deck seats wants 45.00 for one and 65.oo for the other mine have spot welds and rivets I ground the rivets out and took hatchet and carefully spilt the spot welds and come to find out the bearings are just alternator bearings and auto zone had them in stock for 1.99 each drilled the spot welds and rivets out and bolted them back together now can change bearings easily
It just so happened I had my mowing unit on the bench when I saw your video. I will be following your advice. Thank so much
Hey I wanted to give you an update on the bearing grease issue taking out the seal so bearing can get grease. My previous post said how do you know when grease cavity is full abd how do you not blow out the bottom seal with hydrolic pressure. I saw another video that solves that issue. Just drill a small hole in spindle body and when grease starts comming out of drilled hole you know cavity is full and can stop pumping grease. My idea to plug hole when not in use is to put small sheet metal screw (short) in hole to plug it back off till next time.
I understand your reasoning, but I believe that once you take the inner seals out and start pumping grease in the hub, it's going to force the other seals out.
Then you're slinging grease everywhere and the bearings will be exposed to contaminates degrading them quicker than ever.
A full service should be done to your mower every spring, and while you're at it pop the bearings out, flush and regrease them.
Agreed...The bearings are sealed for a reason...for long life. The grease fitting is to lube the shaft...not the bearings.
That bearing he had was fine. He could have packed some new grease in it an reinstalled the seal. I wouldnt run the bearing without the seal...imho
@@majwor3763 Why would the shaft need greasing? It can be absolutely dry (or completely rusty). It's the bearings that support the shaft and provide a low rotational friction assembly. Only the bearings need grease, the shaft needs nothing.
@@RSole9999 For exactly what you said...RUST... Water and clean metal dont mix. The shaft and the roller bearings are a machine fit...any rust scale and corrosion can be a problem when disassembling. This is not an area thats torn down for general maintenance. It may be assembled for three to 5 years before its tended to. I ran into this exact scenario racing motocross and offroad for over 20 years. The swing arm bolt would seize because of scale and rust and would NOT slide through the bearings during disassembling...practically wrecking the shaft bolt trying to beat it out. Since the shaft bolt was hollow end to end, we would weld one end shut and install a zerk fitting on the other end and drill small holes the lenght of the shaft. apply a grease gun during regular maintenance kept the shaft lubricated and pushed out any water. This made for EASY disassembly when doing a swingarm bearing service. I also own my own automotive repair shop and have been doing it for a living for 36 plus years.
@Maj Wor
I agree that allowing the shaft between sealed bearings to rust, can be a huge and expensive problem.
That problem is yet another example of an engineer trying to reinvent the wheel (or in this case, the bearing).
Before the sealed bearing, the grease nipple allowed grease to surround the shaft (axel, spindle etc.) press through the bearings and coat everything in the housing with grease.
Then, (before sealed bearings) we would also install separate seals, in the housing, outside of the bearings. This kept the grease where it was needed, most of the time.
This is an example of trying to reinvent the wheel. Ham fisted operators would over grease the bearings (grease nipple), blowing the seals, which allowed contaminants to enter, thus reducing the life of the bearing and also causing failures during operation.
If maintenance was carried out regularly, as you have said, regular, non-sealed bearings would far outlast sealed (maintenance free) bearings by a long shot.
Whenever something is advertised to be “maintenance free” it just means that it will last longer for someone who is a lazy mechanic, to lazy to do proper maintenance.
Sealed bearings were supposed to be “maintenance free”
Maj Wor o
Where does the grease go once its full? Wouldn't it just then push the seal off of the other side of the bearing to release the pressure?
A sealed bearing lasts longer than a bearing full of dirty grease because the zerk was not cleaned properly before greasing. Over greasing is worse than a factory sealed bearing, it runs to hot, because :more grease" is better. Yes, the grease will push out the seal then you have dirt entering from both sides. Thousands of mower decks out there and this guy sees a hundred, I rest my case.
No one will answer this question correctly !!!!
The best, correct way to solve this issue, would be to drill a tiny hole in the one seal that remains. Then as you add grease, you would be turning the shaft, blade, by hand to ensure grease is filling the voids between the ball bearings. You then continue to add grease until, you begin seeing grease come out of both drill holes ( both the top and bottom bearings)... then you know it’s full.
Phillip from Louisiana.
I'm on my third beer and the mower isn't fixed, not sure where I went wrong 🤔
sounds like you need a fresh beer and start from the beginning...
I tink if y have mo beers y will c the difference in the hole job lol maybe 6 mo
Determination is the key.
Did you buy Tall boys?
It was the weed
Thanks for the bearing info Steve. I have a John Deere deck, fairly new, that I have been greasing, I will be checking the bearings out. My pre retirement job was a vibration analyst, I monitored and inspected hundreds of failed bearings. If the sealed bearings were greased from the factory properly I would think they should last a couple years. I have inspected brand new sealed bearings and have found not all bearings are greased equally.
Thank you, I found the same thing. I also changed those cheap bearings with some skf bearings.
But lo and behold, I had a spindle fail recently. I found the bearings in great shape. The spindle housing was wore out. Cheap material used in manufacturing the spindle housings. They get you coming and going. Bring our factories back to US for good quality materials and good craftsmanship. Spindles use to last years.
Zachary Smith . Spindles are not a maintenance item and should never have to be replaced if they were of quality manufacture!
Steve you're the bomb before Winterfell I could hear Last Summer my bearings starting to grind now I know what to look for thanks again
Thank You...and You're Welcome...
Also check the rear deck hangars for cracking along the deck weld.
Good tip. Just had a buddy weld my deck.
That is simple but genius. I have went through the spindle pulleys like water. Grease. No grease. Never mattered. I never thought of something so simple. I subscribed and will follow you till you stop posting. Thank you again brother. 👊
Thank You...and You're Welcome...
But before you out back the modified bearings, make sure the space between the bearings is clean. No sense pumping contaminated grease in because even good grease in a dirty space will corrupt the bearing races with grit.
Some people really don’t know better,everybody is not a mechanic thanks
You can feel a bad bearing/s by turning either bearing races by hand
🤔Good point... something to do before cracking the first beer? 😆Thanks for sharing. Best to you and yours.
Do you have any videos of the factory design flaws on a cub cadet that make the blade drive belts wear out so soon?
the engineer got a bonus for that design
Great video Steve. My Cub Cudet LTX 1045 spindle bearings worn out. Thanks for the tip on removing the bearings and fixing the design flaw of the spindles. You saved me a lot of money!
You're Welcome...
Nice! But I would also drill a 1/64" hole in the remailing seals to allow air to escape and allow the grease to fully penetrate the bearing.
Great idea. I agree.
@@meandthemrs7403 Do that on small trailer wheel bearings also. No water can get in as long as you grease them.
Thank you from your friends ❤️ Laplace Louisiana. How very interesting your school is....Take care steve
1957 Jacobsen Chief - Mower-deck spindles are actually greasible AND adjustable. Pump them full of Mobil-1 synthetic grease, and that deck "sings"!😊
Steve you are awesome to share all of your knowledge and experience. I've watched so many of your videos and have learned so much. I like to fix my own equipment if I can and with your videos I can. Thank you so much for doing these.
Great to hear!
Steve i just spoke to a john Deere service manager and he says still grease them because the grease will still keep the bearings cool,as i mentioned on my last message i did just that on my old jd x110 greasing those spindle bearings regularly,and luckily they didn't fail and she done 1300 hrs,great video though mate great learning opportunity as the more we know and understand our machines the longer there going to last and the better chance we will be able to get it going again if it lets is down on a job
the fact that Steve says 2 beers online , tells me he could work on my stuff anytime .
Just found your channel this morning and subscribed. Excellent video on something most of us would never think of
Thank You...
Great video. But put a nut on any threaded shaft before you smack it.
Or hit it with a softer metal, like a brass hammer.
Worked on a fleet of lawn tractors for years and we always removed the spindles on mowers by using a center punch.
I use a soft face hammer ,,your right I notice that too !!
There are no threads at the top of that shaft.
Or smack it with your brass hammer.
Steve I just learned something about my lawn mower bearings I never knew and I have replaced mine 3 times on diff. mowers and also I never really knew exactly how the chain saw sharpening went. Thanks a millionn.
You're Welcome...
Congrats on reaching 100K subs. Love your work Steve. Keep it up !!!
Thank You...
I believe your right they are engineered to fail. Most spindle assemblies doesn't have zerk fittings anymore.
These days, the whole mower is designed to fail
Wilkerson's mower shop: Grammar 101: In grammar school we were taught the correct use of you, your, you are, and you’re. In your sentence your use of “...your right...” should be correctly stated as, you are, or you’re, even better “...you are correct...”; recall right is a direction or location. Also, that which follows the word your belongs to the person you are conversing with.
@dog duck Chikin In my college economics class it was called planned obsolescence. Since that class in the 80's I've seen it over and over in all kinds of products. We have the tech and knowledge to make things last longer than needed basically but there is no money in that.
Thank you very much Ric. I'll try to remember that. Never liked English and never went far in school anyway.
@@ricdonato4328 What R U, Another HATER???? Us all knowed what he meaned!!! Oh!! this aint Enghlish 101!!
Just replaced the bearings on mine.
Now I have to take it apart so I can fix it correctly.