If only more people cared about quality work and taking care of their customers. I predominantly do all my own work because I do not trust other people, and every time I’m busy and say ok I’m gonna give someone a shot, they f it up. Watching your vids for the first time and you can see that you know what you’re doing and you actually care about the workmanship. Awesome job, wish I lived closer to you, because I would absolutely trust you with my equipment. Keep up the good work
I just did the same replace and upgrade on my LA-175 a few days ago. Watching you go through it was like Deja vu. I'm glad you agree with my repairs lol. I also did my Streator plate, pinion and bushing. I swapped out the transmission a couple of weeks ago as well to repair a broken axle. Great vid, I'll keep an eye on you. You know what you're doing.
I work mostly for older folks and I’ve installed the easy turn brging kits and wheel brging kits Every one has been very happy with it and it’s cheap improvement for older worn out arms 😊😊😊
Excellent video, I also put flat needle bearings on the spindle shaft to make it much easier to turn. I don't have the part number today but if I can find it I will send it to you. Thanks for the video.
Yea I'd like to get that info if you could, I've heard of this upgrade. The issue with tight steering on these usually comes from the sector plate and pinion gear below getting worn and also all jammed up with grass. Thanks Waterman!
@@EliminatorPerformance Thrust Needle Roller Bearing 3/4"x1 1/4"x9/64" inch Thrust Bearings Brand: VXB 4.5 out of 5 stars 26 ratings | 3 answered questions $14.95 Brand VXB Item Weight 0.07 Pounds Bearing Type Roller Bearing Additional Details
Small Business This product is from a small business brand. Support small. Learn more Specifications for this item Bearing Type Roller Bearing Brand Name VXB Item Weight 1.12 ounces Measurement System Inch Number of Items 1 Part Number Kit12678 UNSPSC Code 31171500 Report incorrect product information. Sponsored Buy it with Thrust Needle Roller Bearing 3/4"x1 1/4"x9/64" inch Thrust Bearings+uxcell TC613 Thrust Needle Roller Bearings with Washers 3/8" Bore 13/16" OD 5/64" Width 5pcs+uxcell TC1018 Thrust Needle Roller Bearings with Washers 5/8" Bore 1-1/8" OD 5/64" Width 5pcs Total price:$35.43 Add all three to Cart Some of these items ship sooner than the others. Show details This item: Thrust Needle Roller Bearing 3/4"x1 1/4"x9/64" inch Thrust Bearings $14.95 uxcell TC613 Thrust Needle Roller Bearings with Washers 3/8" Bore 13/16" OD 5/64" Width 5pcs $8.99 ($1.80/Item) uxcell TC1018 Thrust Needle Roller Bearings with Washers 5/8" Bore 1-1/8" OD 5/64" Width 5pcs $11.49
@@EliminatorPerformance I'm not the 'Waterman', but I found this video helpful. I got my flat needle bearings on ebay but they have them on amazon too. th-cam.com/video/F-Alj_xvjJY/w-d-xo.html
Well done on the wheel bearings. I just did this myself on my Husqvarna. It was very easy. I also recommend the poor mans power steering mod, also very easy and have reduced steering effort by about 50%. It was only $20.
@@ronaldnorris2179 Yes, the bearing aren't sealed so dirt can get in there. However, having said that, I watched a video of a guy that checked the bearings after 10 years. They were worn but still serviceable. considering the cost it is easy to have a spare set on hand just in case.
Good video. I'm going thru a steering issue on my LA140. I have already replaced the steering gear, but noticed while turning, the tire was fighting against the steer. So these steering arms are none adjustable, so I am guessing the last owner hit something pretty hard, my spindles look pretty good still, but will change them anyway especially flipping for a new mower deck. They only come in green color now.
Did this upgrade when my mower was 8 hours old, and was surprised by the amount of wear on the wheel axle. I also added thrust bearings to the spindle at the time. Poor man power steering they call it. At the time all the pars combined were cheaper than replacing a hub. Theres probably 50 tricks of little things a person can do to those mowers so nothing wears out where it's steel on steel. One great trick is add a plastic washer made from a milk jug between the mower belt tightener with some grease. That wear spot is done and will last forever. Do the same to the drive belt tightener. That plastic milk jug material will never wear out, nor will the steel tighteners either. My mower is 130 hours old, better than new, literally.
Didn't film this one completely as I was kind of short on time, like I said it's just 2 e clips and washers, undo a nut on the tie rod end, it's fairly straightforward.
How about adding needle thrust bearing between the cast iron front axle and the wheel axle itself??? This would really make steering easy. Nice work too.
@@mbazzy123 we usually grease them to keep water out, some kits have steel spacers that take up the empty space. You could also peel the inner seal and then pack them with grease
Did you Reverse the front wheels? I see the zerk fitting is on the inside, Schematic shows 12:38 it on the outside. I prefer both valve and zerk to be inside on my X320 as I have Chrome/Stainless hubcaps. Great video. Will the Torrington type roller/ Thrust setup work for all JD steering Spindle setups?
I did not flip them, that's how they are on this unit,, it's a customers machine as are most of the equipment in my videos. I've never seen grease fittings on the outside of a wheel though. And yes, the bearings will work on any spindle/axle shaft, just check the dimensions of your factory wheel bushing, and then cross reference that with a bearing.
0:21...the tear on the seat can be repaired with a product called, SHOE-GOO. The clear rubberized paste is sold in a squeeze tube in different weights, and is priced between $5.00 and $10 dollars. Ctire and Home D stocks the stuff. I use a plastic spatula to spread it nice and thick on multiple items made of rubber, plastic or vinyl.
Just a quick question . . . I know this probably defeats the purpose of using bearings but . . . did you regrease the spindle shaft through the wheel hub zirk? Thanks, great video!
You can if you want to, it helps prevent water from getting in. However, some of the kits sell steel spacers that take up the empty space in there. Really there's no need when they're 2-RS bearings (dual sided rubber seals). If there was a single rubber seal on the outer side, you would definitely want to Grease them!
Good information. Just to clarify, the roller bearing will also be able to spin on the spindle in addition to the bearings turning? Will that also cause wear on the spindle? Thanks.
No not that I've noticed. They rolled significantly easier, and you have to remember the weight of the mower will be pushing the spindle down on the bearings inner race, so the inner race doesn't move much. If it's too tight of a fit, you'll have a hard time getting the wheel on and off lol
Good video Jake. One small question, did you or do you recommend removing the inside rubber seal on bearing so it can accept grease when wheel is greased? Have a good week. Rick
Motorcoach Tech it is the old man at EP here: i personally think that pulling the inside seal and filling the entire inside area of the rim opening where the bearings are installed will increase the life of the two bearings but only if the owner maintains pumping grease inside this area on a regular basis. How much longer this increase will be beyond the life of the bearings installed with both seals on is subject to the maintenance. Therefore, i would not suggest it especially when these sealed bearings with last a very long time with both seals left on but it is important to have the axle greased for ease of wheel removal if necessary. Lets see what Jake suggests!
I suggest just leaving the seals on the bearings (because it's a customers) and worse case, just replace a bearing. If it was my machine, then removing the inner seals and pumping the grease in there would be ideal. As the old man said, upkeep is essential. Grease keeps the moisture out, and keeps the bearings lubricated.
@@EliminatorPerformance This video hit me since I have a L130 but it is a J.D. hydro drive. How much fluid do you lose threw the breather over time? Might be a good video on hydro oil. Don't miss a Sunday. Thanks
@@JRGood-mm9yu oil on this unit was right on the mark, drain and change 78oz 10w40 oil and filter. This thing had a full service, my customer should be pleased.
Man I changed my front tires and now i cant get one of them to stay on haha. The stupid e clip keeps popping out, I had to finish mowing the other day with vise grips holding it on haha. I have tried a couple. Im about to just put a weld bead on the end of the axel haha
You may have opened the e clip up, try squeezing it back together just a little bit with a pair of pliers. If that doesn't work, you may have to replace it.
The following may be a good clip for you to do, I have a friend in Alaska that needs a Snapper part ( Liner for the Smooth Clutch ) assembly, WHERE up there can he get it??
I think you are talking about drive disc liner Stens #240-325 Snapper 5-3103, 5-7423, 7053103, 7600135, hope this helps. If i lived in Alaska i would deliver it to your friend .
I remove the plastic ring on the inside so i can greasr it using the wheel zert every 6 months and remember there is also a grease zert in the middle of the front axle
Very good video on an easy swap to a better part, too bad it cost your customer new spindles. You would think newer models have bearings? Do you know if they do or still using bushings? Interesting to see that bushing part number also fits applications on Ariens, AYP, Honda, Husqvarna and Toro not just the John Deere!
Yes they use these bushings on the cheaper models, the higher end models use bearings. Same wheels, bearings can be swapped over for an additional cost. Thanks for watching!
My 2020 JD 170 ( I bought new) has wheel hub bushings (Not ball or roller bearings) that I'll be replacing soon since I found about 0.025" of wear on the hub shaft, Due to the factory bushings. I just recently added the Thrust bearings onto the Spindle shaft to ease steering. Very poor John Deere factory engineering !!!
There are washers and thin thrust bearings you can order that will fit on the top section of the spindle and at some point we will be doing a video on the part numbers and the installation. Thanks this has always been on our mind especially when customers never keep grease in the spindles and they dry up and get stiff.
I had to do this on my JD D140 before 100 hours , these mowers are pure JUNK . I will never have a JD mower again. No adjustment on the steering rods , pure trash. I am a Cub Cadet guy now. Good vid BTW.
My JD 105 was stanced too but had the plastic bushings with grease fittings. It now has front wheels with bearings I saved from something which took most of the slop out. Have you ever seen where a mouse nest ate holes in the cylinder wall? Little bastards pee sulfuric acid apparently.
Yes mouse urine is very acidic, if left long enough, it can do damage to the aluminum block. I've never seen one worn through, but the aluminum near the coils (near the nest) was very oxidized and needed cleaning
Common mistake made when doing this... many people don't realize. "REMOVE THE PLASTIC SEAL ON THE INSIDE OF THE NEW BEARINGS" otherwise, there is no way the grease will get into the bearing. The only grease in the new bearing is what they use when assembling them at the factory "and is not much". Use a small screwdriver, pick tool, or the point of a knife to pop the seal out. Also, drill a tiny weephole somewhere towards the center of the wheel hub. This will allow you to see when it is full, so there's no way of blowing the outside bearing seals out.
Just a question I always wonder why the trial attorneys haven’t seen the living hell out of John Deere because every tractor they sold for the last 30 years has rust without any reason most of the tractor starter Ruston the laminate on the dealers lot
If only more people cared about quality work and taking care of their customers. I predominantly do all my own work because I do not trust other people, and every time I’m busy and say ok I’m gonna give someone a shot, they f it up. Watching your vids for the first time and you can see that you know what you’re doing and you actually care about the workmanship. Awesome job, wish I lived closer to you, because I would absolutely trust you with my equipment. Keep up the good work
I just did the same replace and upgrade on my LA-175 a few days ago. Watching you go through it was like Deja vu. I'm glad you agree with my repairs lol. I also did my Streator plate, pinion and bushing. I swapped out the transmission a couple of weeks ago as well to repair a broken axle. Great vid, I'll keep an eye on you. You know what you're doing.
It's not a repeat - cause you do this repair with all the important details on parts - real EP quality video. Thanks Jake
Thanks for watching!
I work mostly for older folks and I’ve installed the easy turn brging kits and wheel brging kits
Every one has been very happy with it and it’s cheap improvement for older worn out arms 😊😊😊
Excellent video, I also put flat needle bearings on the spindle shaft to make it much easier to turn. I don't have the part number today but if I can find it I will send it to you. Thanks for the video.
Is that what is called 'the poor man's power steering'? I want to put those on mine too so it will be easier to turn.
Yea I'd like to get that info if you could, I've heard of this upgrade. The issue with tight steering on these usually comes from the sector plate and pinion gear below getting worn and also all jammed up with grass. Thanks Waterman!
@@EliminatorPerformance Thrust Needle Roller Bearing 3/4"x1 1/4"x9/64" inch Thrust Bearings
Brand: VXB
4.5 out of 5 stars 26 ratings | 3 answered questions
$14.95
Brand VXB
Item Weight 0.07 Pounds
Bearing Type Roller Bearing
Additional Details
Small Business
This product is from a small business brand. Support small. Learn more
Specifications for this item
Bearing Type Roller Bearing
Brand Name VXB
Item Weight 1.12 ounces
Measurement System Inch
Number of Items 1
Part Number Kit12678
UNSPSC Code 31171500
Report incorrect product information.
Sponsored
Buy it with
Thrust Needle Roller Bearing 3/4"x1 1/4"x9/64" inch Thrust Bearings+uxcell TC613 Thrust Needle Roller Bearings with Washers 3/8" Bore 13/16" OD 5/64" Width 5pcs+uxcell TC1018 Thrust Needle Roller Bearings with Washers 5/8" Bore 1-1/8" OD 5/64" Width 5pcs
Total price:$35.43
Add all three to Cart
Some of these items ship sooner than the others.
Show details
This item: Thrust Needle Roller Bearing 3/4"x1 1/4"x9/64" inch Thrust Bearings
$14.95
uxcell TC613 Thrust Needle Roller Bearings with Washers 3/8" Bore 13/16" OD 5/64" Width 5pcs
$8.99 ($1.80/Item)
uxcell TC1018 Thrust Needle Roller Bearings with Washers 5/8" Bore 1-1/8" OD 5/64" Width 5pcs
$11.49
@@EliminatorPerformance I'm not the 'Waterman', but I found this video helpful. I got my flat needle bearings on ebay but they have them on amazon too. th-cam.com/video/F-Alj_xvjJY/w-d-xo.html
th-cam.com/video/ySXazpX2XP4/w-d-xo.html
this will give the links to the parts in the 'more' description.
Well informed to the point. Great video awesome job I'll be doing some upgrades myself to my John Deere
Well done on the wheel bearings. I just did this myself on my Husqvarna. It was very easy. I also recommend the poor mans power steering mod, also very easy and have reduced steering effort by about 50%. It was only $20.
Doesn’t dirt get in those bearings? Just asking, don’t mean to be negative. I’m talking about the ones for the steering.
@@ronaldnorris2179 Yes, the bearing aren't sealed so dirt can get in there. However, having said that, I watched a video of a guy that checked the bearings after 10 years. They were worn but still serviceable. considering the cost it is easy to have a spare set on hand just in case.
@@jameslester6785 Appreciate your response, thank you, I may try that 👍
Good day Yea those roller bearings will be alot better than bushings. Good video. Thanks
Yes definitely, will last longer! Thanks for watching!
Thanks, it's good to learn about my mower.
Thanks for watching!
Good video. I'm going thru a steering issue on my LA140. I have already replaced the steering gear, but noticed while turning, the tire was fighting against the steer. So these steering arms are none adjustable, so I am guessing the last owner hit something pretty hard, my spindles look pretty good still, but will change them anyway especially flipping for a new mower deck. They only come in green color now.
Did this upgrade when my mower was 8 hours old, and was surprised by the amount of wear on the wheel axle. I also added thrust bearings to the spindle at the time. Poor man power steering they call it. At the time all the pars combined were cheaper than replacing a hub. Theres probably 50 tricks of little things a person can do to those mowers so nothing wears out where it's steel on steel. One great trick is add a plastic washer made from a milk jug between the mower belt tightener with some grease. That wear spot is done and will last forever. Do the same to the drive belt tightener. That plastic milk jug material will never wear out, nor will the steel tighteners either. My mower is 130 hours old, better than new, literally.
Good job . Need to see the actual work being done .
Didn't film this one completely as I was kind of short on time, like I said it's just 2 e clips and washers, undo a nut on the tie rod end, it's fairly straightforward.
Great video, very informative and detailed. Thumbs up applied!
you've helped a lot and I wanted to thank you for all you do
Excellent. Good instruction. Good information.
How about adding needle thrust bearing between the cast iron front axle and the wheel axle itself??? This would really make steering easy. Nice work too.
Yes, will be doing a video on that eventually!
@@EliminatorPerformance Job well done fella. I will be making this improvement on my tractors. Thanks fella.
Love the kits and they really do work
Hi why would you need to grease the inner hub spindle when you have used sealed bearings?
@@mbazzy123 we usually grease them to keep water out, some kits have steel spacers that take up the empty space. You could also peel the inner seal and then pack them with grease
@@EliminatorPerformance Good to know. Thank you very much for the reply !
Really enjoy your work. Even though this is a John Deere, I gather the same work can be done on Cub Cadets?
Yes just have to find the proper parts to use
It appears my husqvarna doesn't have wheel bushings, it just has washers. Can i install these bearings and upgrade the wheels as you did?
How's she goin'? Nice video and tanks for providing all the parts numbers for this upgrade. Very thorough!! Take care!!!
Thanks for watching!
Do you install the bushings for proper spacing with this bearing conversion? Just want to make sure the wheel isn't going to rub.
I'll use washers where needed, just get some .750 ID washers and you'll be fine
Thank you!
Ball bearing is best, bet the customer was happy
Yes she was very pleased
Will this work on a craftsman T110?
Did you Reverse the front wheels? I see the zerk fitting is on the inside, Schematic shows 12:38 it on the outside. I prefer both valve and zerk to be inside on my X320 as I have Chrome/Stainless hubcaps.
Great video. Will the Torrington type roller/ Thrust setup work for all JD steering Spindle setups?
I did not flip them, that's how they are on this unit,, it's a customers machine as are most of the equipment in my videos. I've never seen grease fittings on the outside of a wheel though. And yes, the bearings will work on any spindle/axle shaft, just check the dimensions of your factory wheel bushing, and then cross reference that with a bearing.
@@EliminatorPerformance I was referring to a Thrust bearing on the Bottom of the SPINDLE, not Axle Bearing.
@@gordbaker896 yes, I plan on doing a video soon on the poor man's Power Steering! My kit just came in
0:21...the tear on the seat can be repaired with a product called, SHOE-GOO. The clear rubberized paste is sold in a squeeze tube in different weights, and is priced between $5.00 and $10 dollars. Ctire and Home D stocks the stuff. I use a plastic spatula to spread it nice and thick on multiple items made of rubber, plastic or vinyl.
Good stuff as always.
Thanks for watching!
Good video. Attention to detail was great
Just a quick question . . . I know this probably defeats the purpose of using bearings but . . . did you regrease the spindle shaft through the wheel hub zirk? Thanks, great video!
You can if you want to, it helps prevent water from getting in. However, some of the kits sell steel spacers that take up the empty space in there. Really there's no need when they're 2-RS bearings (dual sided rubber seals). If there was a single rubber seal on the outer side, you would definitely want to Grease them!
Good information. Just to clarify, the roller bearing will also be able to spin on the spindle in addition to the bearings turning? Will that also cause wear on the spindle? Thanks.
No not that I've noticed. They rolled significantly easier, and you have to remember the weight of the mower will be pushing the spindle down on the bearings inner race, so the inner race doesn't move much. If it's too tight of a fit, you'll have a hard time getting the wheel on and off lol
the bearing is hardened steel and if it spins it will eat up the soft spindle. these bearings are made for interfearance fit not a slide on fit.
Good video Jake. One small question, did you or do you recommend removing the inside rubber seal on bearing so it can accept grease when wheel is greased? Have a good week. Rick
Motorcoach Tech it is the old man at EP here: i personally think that pulling the inside seal and filling the entire inside area of the rim opening where the bearings are installed will increase the life of the two bearings but only if the owner maintains pumping grease inside this area on a regular basis. How much longer this increase will be beyond the life of the bearings installed with both seals on is subject to the maintenance. Therefore, i would not suggest it especially when these sealed bearings with last a very long time with both seals left on but it is important to have the axle greased for ease of wheel removal if necessary. Lets see what Jake suggests!
I suggest just leaving the seals on the bearings (because it's a customers) and worse case, just replace a bearing. If it was my machine, then removing the inner seals and pumping the grease in there would be ideal. As the old man said, upkeep is essential. Grease keeps the moisture out, and keeps the bearings lubricated.
Nice video. My customers are too cheap and would run the worn bushings/axles until they fell off!
I would remove the inner seal so when you grease the wheels fresh grease goes into the bearings
You don't grease a sealed bearing, that defeats the purpose of this swap. Do you grease OEM non greaselable u joints for your truck?
Thank you!
Big thanks from Kangaroo Island
If you pull the rubber seal off the bearing, you can fill that area up with grease and keep those bearings forever
✔️Very informative video on several points of maintaining your tractors front end. Especially changing to ball bearings from factory bushings.✔️
Thanks for watching!
GREAT VIDEO AGAIN! VERY WELL EXPLAINED! GOOD KNOWLEDGE ON ALL YOUR VIDEOS.. THANKS FOR TAKING THE TIME TO EDUCATE US! CHEERS . CHUBBY BUTCHER
Thanks for watching!
Safety green and yellow matches John Deere colors the best.
We'll have to check them out, thanks for watching!
@@EliminatorPerformance This video hit me since I have a L130 but it is a J.D. hydro drive. How much fluid do you lose threw the breather over time? Might be a good video on hydro oil. Don't miss a Sunday. Thanks
@@JRGood-mm9yu oil on this unit was right on the mark, drain and change 78oz 10w40 oil and filter. This thing had a full service, my customer should be pleased.
It’s very easy to make a toe end stick to get it right on the money also
Perfect.
Man I changed my front tires and now i cant get one of them to stay on haha. The stupid e clip keeps popping out, I had to finish mowing the other day with vise grips holding it on haha. I have tried a couple. Im about to just put a weld bead on the end of the axel haha
You may have opened the e clip up, try squeezing it back together just a little bit with a pair of pliers. If that doesn't work, you may have to replace it.
The following may be a good clip for you to do, I have a friend in Alaska that needs a Snapper part ( Liner for the Smooth Clutch ) assembly, WHERE up there can he get it??
I think you are talking about drive disc liner Stens #240-325 Snapper 5-3103, 5-7423, 7053103, 7600135, hope this helps. If i lived in Alaska i would deliver it to your friend .
Just an fyi. I don't know which models this applies to, but my 2024 S240 had bearings from the factory.
@@sgtlwh3485 yes the S series is above the E series, so they usually have bearings now. Little bit more $ but worth it for some stronger components.
I remove the plastic ring on the inside so i can greasr it using the wheel zert every 6 months and remember there is also a grease zert in the middle of the front axle
Very good video on an easy swap to a better part, too bad it cost your customer new spindles. You would think newer models have bearings? Do you know if they do or still using bushings? Interesting to see that bushing part number also fits applications on Ariens, AYP, Honda, Husqvarna and Toro not just the John Deere!
Yes they use these bushings on the cheaper models, the higher end models use bearings. Same wheels, bearings can be swapped over for an additional cost. Thanks for watching!
My 2020 JD 170 ( I bought new) has wheel hub bushings (Not ball or roller bearings) that I'll be replacing soon since I found about 0.025" of wear on the hub shaft, Due to the factory bushings. I just recently added the Thrust bearings onto the Spindle shaft to ease steering. Very poor John Deere factory engineering !!!
@@unclefuddelmer8611 Good preventative maintenance move there unclefudd
my neighbour has a jd e110. he finds the steering hard. is there a bearing upgrade for the spindle bushings?
There are washers and thin thrust bearings you can order that will fit on the top section of the spindle and at some point we will be doing a video on the part numbers and the installation. Thanks this has always been on our mind especially when customers never keep grease in the spindles and they dry up and get stiff.
How many hours are on mower, at time of repair?
About 15yrs worth of cutting lol these were manufactured in 2007
@@EliminatorPerformance WOW!! Thanks
Grease up my shaft and call me Amy that made me hungry for more
@@MrJakethehouse greasing for subscriptions lol man's gotta eat
It really depends on dirt and use of mower but I’ve seen JD with just two years and allready damage spindles
is there a 620n number for those bearings.
No 620- number that we could find anywhere Ken
I had to do this on my JD D140 before 100 hours , these mowers are pure JUNK . I will never have a JD mower again. No adjustment on the steering rods , pure trash. I am a Cub Cadet guy now. Good vid BTW.
Anyone know if this idea will work on a Cub Cadet XT1 (2021 model)?
The amount of wheel slop on a $4000 AUD rideon mower is just bullshit...
My JD 105 was stanced too but had the plastic bushings with grease fittings. It now has front wheels with bearings I saved from something which took most of the slop out. Have you ever seen where a mouse nest ate holes in the cylinder wall? Little bastards pee sulfuric acid apparently.
Yes mouse urine is very acidic, if left long enough, it can do damage to the aluminum block. I've never seen one worn through, but the aluminum near the coils (near the nest) was very oxidized and needed cleaning
There was no point in adding grease to the wheel hub zerks after installing sealed bearings.
It packs grease in between the 2 bearings preventing water from getting in there
If you have a mower just order kit from Amazon and fix it before it damage spindles
You’ll save money in the long run and tires
👍👍👍
Thanks for watching!
This is the best way to fix these front wheels and last a lifetime if greased regularly
Common mistake made when doing this... many people don't realize. "REMOVE THE PLASTIC SEAL ON THE INSIDE OF THE NEW BEARINGS" otherwise, there is no way the grease will get into the bearing. The only grease in the new bearing is what they use when assembling them at the factory "and is not much". Use a small screwdriver, pick tool, or the point of a knife to pop the seal out. Also, drill a tiny weephole somewhere towards the center of the wheel hub. This will allow you to see when it is full, so there's no way of blowing the outside bearing seals out.
Just a question I always wonder why the trial attorneys haven’t seen the living hell out of John Deere because every tractor they sold for the last 30 years has rust without any reason most of the tractor starter Ruston the laminate on the dealers lot
Spend $3,000 and buy a Craftsman Turn tight series
For a couple hundred you can do this upgrade, thanks for watching!