Great step-by-step advice. Going to purchase some products at the local Tractor Supply Company store tomorrow and work on my deck. Thank you for your expertise!
Had a 28 year old Bolens, every fall I scraped, wire wheeled and applied waste oil before putting away for winter. At the end of 28 years it had one small spot that finally rusted through.
Good video for those who have let things go too far. Alternatively, you could cover the discharge with a mulch plate, hook a garden hose up to the washout port, drop the deck to the lowest setting, throttle up the engine, engage the blades, and let it clean itself. Do this once a month or so, and it'll stay almost as clean as the day you bought it. I mow an acre in Florida (wet and thick) and my 4 year old mower deck is spotless underneath. I've only lifted it to remove the blades for sharpening or replacement.
@@AnonymousGameWarden if you have spindles that can be ruined by a little bit of spinning water, then you bought the wrong mower. A little water on metal for a few minutes isn't nearly as bad as having wet, packed grass against it 24/7.
Great video ,I use the Krown on my car as well and it work so good. All fuel, brake ,vacuum vent lines. Never rot the exhaust stays good and the parking brake never needs new cables. Door locks and window motors stay good.no electrical problems. It prevents a lot of problems.
Thanks for the vid, Eliminator... I personally would have wire wheeled it and done a rusty metal primer, but if your time is billable and the customer doesn't want to invest much, it's better than nothing!
Nice great video i did our L-115 J D deck 4 years ago. I used rust-oleum pro paint then spray undercoating. Also i removed those black plastic guards over deck pulleys for easy cleaning & maintenance with leaf blower.
Airframe and Powerplant Mech.> you should take a putty knife and remove the loose paint before oiling the area. The protection will work much better. By-the way ATF is a good rust protectant.
I like used motor for all sorts of stuff like this. Been soaking my wooden yard tool handles in it. Dries nicely. I usually spry the underside mower decks with hammerite paint ofter cleaning them up a bit. Goes over light rust ok and dries fast leaving a nice glossy finish. Occasionally spray a little oil for easy grass release.
9:04 I would fill the filter canister with oil, before refitting to the engine. That way oil pressure will build up almost immediately and not starve the bearings of lubrication.
I clean and wire wheel any and all rust of my John deer lawn tractor each cutting season... Then I paint it where any rust was removed... My deck is 27 years old and looks new...
and that is what is needed... clean the deck up and touch up paint. Don't halfa$$ clean then coat with anything else. This video is a dis-service. When done, that deck was no better off beyond removal of thick caked on grass.
Good stuff! I've installed a "washout port" on both my lawn mower and lawn tractor. Best tip I ever got was lowering he deck to its lowest level and washing it out for a couple of minutes for each mowing. This tip, combined with the one here, has kept both my decks in pristine condition. Thanks for posting.
I use a spray-on truck under-coat. Sprayed my first mower (90 Snapper) with it when it was new. I wash it out after each use. Mower still in service. Deck still in great shape. Only retouched with the under-coat twice. Sprayed top and bottom.
Too much repeating the same information over and over. Say what you're going to say one time, and then move on. If I miss what you say I'll back up the video and see it again! A good effort with good information! Thanks!
@@michellakhan2340 It wastes time if you didn't miss anything. it is no effort for someone to scroll back and listen to what he said. Don;t waste everyone's time because one idiot names Michella missed something.
I know people that have done it and after 12 years their decks have zero deteriation so far. You can only do it to a quality deck, those cheap thin decks will not stand up to the process without warping.
I use mobile home roof coating. It's a tar like coating. Also comes in silver colored tar. It drys fast compared to automotive coatings, which seems to take forever.
Does your pulley wiggle test tell you if there is any grease in the bearings or if they are dry? You might want to actually spin them and listen, as well as feel them move to see if they are smooth. Might save time replacing them later since it's apart now.
my experience is with POR 15 is its like powder coat , one it gets chipped moisture migrates underneath it and rusts underneath and then it comes off in sheets , ya can't really tell its rusting till the sheets falls off , im not a fan , its too hard of a coating
I agree that rust preventative is a good product, I use it on my tools, but it is only a coating that must remain on the metal to do its prevention. However, if something hits it like a stone or fairly large branch, the coating could be knocked off or scraped off the metal and then the metal is open to corrosion. Once the rust converter is dried on the metal, it cannot be knocked or scraped off since the rusted metal is changed to a hard different material and is free of rust occurring again.
It would be far better to scrape off all the loose paint then apply POR-15 to all the bare metal, then paint the whole top side. For the underside, paint POR-15 on all of it, followed by a coating of a good abrasion resistant spray paint. Google that, you'll find plenty of choices. Want it even tougher? Completely dismantle the deck, sandblast it, paint it all with a catalyzed epoxy paint then take it to a Line-X shop to have the underside coated.
Instead of using the rust preventative, it would be better to use a rust converter. The preventative is an oily, waxy lube which prevents further rust, but will attract all the dirt and grass that comes from using the mower since it always stays moist. The converter is a spray that acts like paint but actually converts the rust to another substance that is not rust. Once sprayed, the rusted metal all is converted to a substance which will not rust again. It dries like paint and is a black in color so it will not attract dirt or grass. It can be painted if desired. You can find this converter at Walmart and most hardware stores.
The grass and dirt doesn't actually stick to this stuff, you'd think it does, but I just had a mower (which I sprayed last year) come in for an oil change and the deck was very clean with hardly any grass stuck to it!
Good to know that grass and dirt doesn't stick to it hardly! In all honesty though, rust converters do a better job. I don't recommend using it EVERY YEAR for your customers though, using a converter the first year and then the preventative the following years is what I think would work best. You are the professional though and if you don't have any problems with what you do now... I wouldn't change anything. I like the saying "If it ain't broke, don't fix it." Have a good day Eliminator!
I always scraped my mower deck and when I take the blades off and then I clean it with a wire brush to get the stuff that don't come off and after that dad and I used an air compressor to blow the deck off to clean what ever we had wire brushed off so it's clean and then we used a can of what they call slip plate which I think that is the name of the stuff and spray the under side of the mower deck and then let it dry it's grey in color and once it's dry it prevents grass from sticking to the deck and you'll never have to scrape it and it usually lasts for about a year and this stuff does work
Humble suggestion from a coasty jack of all trades, I use a wire wheel and if its really rust pitted then a flapper disk on a 4.5'' grinder. Works great!!! good job on the video though
Breaking news: MOST (with a few exceptions) Riding Mowers are produced by ONE MOTHER COMPANY (MTD) with slight cosmetic differences. You'd be surprised at just how much on the riding mower can be interchanged between other models concerning parts.
First off mower decks should be made not to rust in the first place! I have painted, rust prevented, decks before. Anything you put under the deck, will be worn off with the grass as you mow. Keep good care of your mower, and don't let grass get clumped under it.
There’s no permanent fix. And there’s no way to build it where it won’t wear. You should regularly clean and coat underside of deck. You sound like the type that says it will wear off why waste my valuable time painting it. And as you can see in the video, rust happens. And grass doesn’t stick to painted surfaces anywhere near what it does to unpainted metal.
@@chriswhitley3283 Thanks for your reply. It has been 3years ago since I wrote my comment. Had to read it over again to know what you were referring to. Many decks rust because the grass that builds up (say when wet), people don't clean out regularly. I always cleaned underneath after each time I cut the grass. That way the bottom of the deck gets to dry. The problem with painting it or undercoating it, is that after a few times of cutting, everything underneath is gone. If the deck and all mowers would have rustproof decks, this problem would be fixed. I know that some models of Honda push mowers have rustproof decks. Yes the prices of the mowers would go up, but it would last. Yes I agree that grass won't stick as bad with a painted deck, but the paint won't last. Put your hand when the grass shoots out. That hurts!! That is what the grass is doing to the underside of the deck. Lawn boy used to have decks made out of magnesium. I had one. That never rusted.
@@EliminatorPerformance yeah my dad had one and that was his baby. Something happened to the motor. Not sure what happened to the whole mower. My dad died of the old timers with a bad hip. Would’ve put motor on it. He had some thieves get rid of some scrap. Couldn’t find a lot of stuff after that.
PB has a great rust neutralizer and preventative. I used it on some damaged area on my truck for the winter in this salt-ladened road area until I can get the area repaired.
its far more important to clean your deck at least once in a year to prevent rust at your mowerdeck, and to put some paint anti rust on it, but the product you show me i dont know that one!!! its very important to me that if you start the new mower deckt is in good shape, so you have a fantactic lawn in good shape as well ! keep doing the good job
i always clean everything off a deck once i have it upside down. Never leave any residue as you have, I use an air scaler for dry grass and rust, then medium sand disc to bare metal. Then phosphoric acid for a day or two,,then prime and paint. My decks cost over 1000 excluding any spindle towers or bearings, so half way work wont get it for me. If i have a crack or hole, it gets welded up and ground smooth on both sides so you cant tell it once painted. Costs time and money but saves in the long run. My blades get sharpened twice each summer at least.
What I would do with my own equipment, most of the stuff I service is for customers and they're looking for something in between long lasting and cost saving if you catch my drift. There's always a balance between the 2 and this is what I've shown.
I have used Glyptal paint as an under deck coating. Then every time I sharpen blades, I spray some liquid car wax. I don't get any buildup. My deck is in awesome shape. My mower is 20 years old.
I'am really impress with the Rust-Oleum Truck Bed Coating> i just brush it on 2 coats with 2 hours drying time for each coat NEED TO PLUG THEM HOLES there enough air coming out of the pulley mounts
I also use a truck bed liner, 2 to 3 coats, lasts about 3 years. when it's worn away to the steel I apply another 3 coats. What this guy did is a waste of time, cut your grass once and it will disappear! I use Harbor Freight bed liner.....Cheap.
Here in Florida, with our sandy soil, desks get sand blasted every time you mow. I have had blades wear off the wing/lift section in less than an hour. Blades don't last long and frequent sharpening is required. Decks don't rust out, they just wear thru.
Wow, that's pretty crazy thanks for sharing! We don't have anything like that around here! In fact, it's quite the opposite. I'm actually looking for a '69 fastback mustang, and everyone I've found it rotted out, we have sooo much humidity down here. I live like 20mins from Niagara Falls, so it's always super humid. Mower decks, vehicles, you name it, they all rust!
Robert Heinkel You got that right, in Florida plan on a new deck for about 287 bucks in 3 years. Rust will never have a chance to happen, no metal left to rust. Blades last 3 or 4 times on 5 acre mowing till no blade is left. Just a ragged alien looking used to be a blade thing.
John Fenman Agree on the Fl sandy soil. I wore a hole in an aluminum deck 21 Honda in two seasons cutting once a week only in summer. I patched it with a riveted stainless steel sheet. Next mower I’ll inspect the deck after a few cuts to see a pattern where the swirl action is battering the deck with the sand. A PM fix would be to add a length of stainless barrier in that location to prevent it abrading through the alum. Steel deck holds up longer but eventually fails with Fl soil. Stainless shield is a must for some Fl regions.
Robert Heinkel ..... here in North Carolina we have some very sandy soil as well. I have spots on my lawn that are very Sandy or at least used to be. Right before you cut the worst Parts just spray a little water from a garden hose and the sand becomes heavy enough and will not get up in a road your blades or your deck. I know it sounds silly but it works and doesn't take that much water to do it. You just need to spray it down right before you mow and at least it will reduce it dramatically even if you don't get every square foot of it done. It usually took me about 5 minutes to wet those areas down. I hope it helps
With 30 plus years of mower and tractor experience, this video is only a band aid, I recommend pulling off your deck remove the blades scrape off what you can. Then take a wire brush wheel and a 4in. grinder clean off all the rust that you can, wash off with soap and water, blow dry with air pressure wipe down with mineral sprits get a gallon can of boiled linseed oil, take a blow dryer or heat gun and heat the areas this expands themetal and opens rusted pores brush on heavy do not leave puddles I do two coats about 1 hour apart. This will take about 48 hours to cure and will last about 3 years.Paint or undercoat is a waste of time nothing I no of will permanently stick to a mower deck because when mowing your deck is creating a vacuum pulling up clippings and dirt.The dirt contains sand, so every time you are mowing your sandblasting your deck. remember to clean with soap and water a mineral sprits hope this helps and do not use deck till it dries or cures
I agree with your comment. He should have at least used a chipping hammer to remove the heavy scale because the rust is still working under the heavy scale. I didn't know about the linseed oil but I will certainly give it a try. I clean and strip my deck, I then use a rust converter (which really is a heavy primer) then I cover it in an ashfault undercoating which does pretty much dries hard over the winter then does remain on for the best part of the summer, come fall the bottom of my deck is in pretty nice shape and I repeat the process. This guy making the video is doing some good but he is only getting part of the job done.
Something else that is important, is that all "cut" plants including flowers, vegetables, and grass, give off acids. They do not while growing, only after they have been cut! So this acid, mixed with the moisture, accelerates the rusting! I like to use something like this every year as well once I clean m deck in the Fall.
I used Rust Cure 3000 on the frame of my truck, after a few months all the rust started coming off like scales! Now after being treated 2 years ago, the frame only has light surface rust not the heavy stuff that used to be there.
9:27 I saw that too. Use a flexible putty knife to expose all the spots where the paint has failed, so that you can hit it all with the rust preventative (or better still, sand until you reach clean metal all around the spot, use a phosphoric acid rust converter, then prime & paint). Leaving the paint on might look nicer for a while, but it keeps you from treating the rust that's growing behind it. Of course, if you're doing this as a business, you make your recommendations, and then do whatever the customer is willing to pay for!
@@frankdavidson9675 Years ago, I bought one of those Central Pneumatic 5-gal sandblasting tanks from Hazard Fraught to clean up some parts for a car I was restoring. It's long gone now, but I'll be buying another when I rebuild my next mower deck. If you're taking the trouble to sand and repaint anyway, you might as well do it on a clean surface.
I just got a new Husqvana electric ride on for work, let me say I had my doubts about the battery life but I work all day and it barely drops a light. It mows great too and has none of the maintenance issues of petrol mowers except the importance of cleaning etc.
POR-15 is a much better treatment for a mower deck. Use it all the time on farm equipment because of how it keeps a lasting slick finish for grass and such to slip off.
I agree. I used POR-15 on little garden trailer and I cant believe after 5 yrs of no or very little rust. Left outside in Michigan weather the whole time. Its expensive.
Por15 is available in Canada. I think its a 2 part system though and pricey, as well as way more prep. Autobody places sell it for sure. I went with Rust Mort. I think Por15 is better then what both of us use from what I've seen. I have never tried the mower deck though, that's why I'm here. Never heard of the stuff your using, sounds like Rust Mort. Is there a shelf life? I've had mine a few years.
Rust Mort is a chemical rust neutralizer and is not paint, which I have also used on other projects but it is not the same POR15 which is paint. Yes POR15 is very expensive. Also POR15 states that if one drop of water or sweat enters the open can it should be considered useless. Eastwood has a similar product as POR15 and is probably cheaper
In the 50's and 60's some decks were made not to rust... The lawn mower industry changed real quick. Rusty Decks, Sell New Mowers. $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$>>>>>> GREED WINS AGAIN.
Thanks William, you could use what's called a "rust converter" so I'd recommend taking a wire wheel on a drill to the whole underside, convert the rust to painteable metal, then use your rust paint. Once dry, I'd then recommend undercoating with a rust inhibitor. That's how I'd do my own deck, we have to understand this is for a customer, and I'm charging for my labour and materials!
You had the deck off why not take it all apart and wire wheel it down and paint the top and grease all the pivots and bearing points? Plus all that rough stuff under the deck will allow the grass to stick to it. I clean all the rust off under the deck and then use a 5 min epoxy to seal and smooth it out. Just sand in between coats until it "relevels" the area. Then I hit it with rust restorer paint and then use a mixture of 3/4 axle grease and 1/4 transmission fluid to coat the bottom. That 5 min. epoxy is pretty tough, I even use it to smooth out badly rusted axles on push mowers and tracked snowblowers... Beats paying for a new axle. Or letting it wear the inside of the wheel or track wheel out even more. Then tell your customers that they should have their deck done every other year. Once you explain to them to have their equipment checked and fixed BEFORE something breaks, it will make sense to a majority of them. I offer mine preventative maintenance plans... I charge a flat rate plus any parts and I don't spank them on the parts. And tell them how important it is to wash all the grass off the mower and under the deck after they are done mowing. I have a 1992 craftsman 42" hydro with the original deck and even the tires and a 1995 craftsman 5/23 track drive snowblower all original and I leave them parked outside all year long and I live in New York. They are parked on pavement, not grass or dirt... Parking them on grass or dirt makes anything rust faster.
kiddiescripterkiller All the spindles we're greased (some are enclosed bearings and others have grease nipples) as for smoothing out the underside, I've seen brand new decks with grass stuck to them, as I said in the video, grass sticks anyways, so it's better to have a non drip rust inhibitor in between the deck and grass. I charge by the hour, so there's a time/value that I have to try and stick with, I take a wire wheel and break up the rough stuff, anything else is just overkill in my opinion. I've been doing it this way for a few years now and we've never had one come back that was rotted out! We occasionally try out new products to see what works best, but the rust check and Krown rust inhibitor have worked well in the past.
On my new TS348 XD tractor which I bought in April 2019, first thing I did was spray 2 cans of Graphite deck coating from tractor supply, I think it did a good job coating the deck but grass still stuck and I never cut wet grass. This cutting season after 3 cuts of an acre lawn I put the Husqvarna up on a lift and cleaned underneath, scrapped and blew of the grass and hit it hard with 2 coats of fresh silicone out of the spray can. Do you think the silicone is a good choice? Thanks.
Anything that helps creates a barrier between the metal deck and the outside air is good. Usually you want to stick to oil based products, but I'm sure silicone would work. What you don't want to do is use a rubber coating like I've seen before. Some guys have made videos and it's horrible because you'll end up getting moisture build up in between the metal deck and the rubber coating. Let me know how the silicone holds up, we've never had an issue with rust cure!
@@EliminatorPerformance Thanks. I think the Graphite coating is still there, but I thought hitting with the silicone would back that up..we shall see. I soaked it good. :)
I have a deck that is clean I cleaned it up with steel wool and treated it with Ospho and it still looks new I don't make it a habit to mow my lawn when it is wet maybe that's why it's not rusting out after 8 years
I use wire brushes with my drill to remove anything flaky like rust or paint. Flaking paint traps water under it. Get most of the rust removed with the wire brushes then spray Rustoleum Rust Converter on the remaining rust to stop further rust. I bought John Deere yellow paint on Amazon when everything was nice and dry. Under the now cleaned deck when all the grass and stuff is clean I spray Blaster Surface Shield to seal it and it's good for 2 years before it needs another spray.
RUST NEVER SLEEPS just keep that one thought in mind. Unless you get down to bare metal, the rusted area will continue to eat away at metal. Just my opinion
First off if you went to those lengths why not use a wire wheel to completely clean the deck underside thoroughly, then apply your undercoat solution? Just saying.... On my new 22 hp Cub Cadet 46" deck I did, and only took about 10, 15 more minutes but it was raining here as well so what was the rush. I Primed the bare metal , painted then used my undercoat solution and it gave me a protected like new under deck. Will I have to do it again? I'm sure but I feel it's worth it in the long run to not cut corners. I have a 20+ year's old Scott's 20 hp tractor, bought it second hand and it still runs great with the deck not rusted out. The spindles had to be changed but what do you want from a machine with countless hours and years of massive use. You know while in the big box store's I see folks buying new mowers so I talk to them and they most always say, "Yeah I got one new about 5 years ago but it's shot." Clean it, Change the oil, filters, air cleaner, spark plug and for heaven's sake take the time to address that deck. Without it you can't mow, it's just something to pull carts and ride around on. Never had a brand new one before so I wonder how long this one will last, 30 years? I'm 61 so if I last that long probably.
I have a 20 year old poulan pro. Bought it new and have cleaned the crap out from under it once a year when i sharpen the blades. Now replacing the deck spindles because one took a dump. Change oil and blow out and change the air cleaner more than once in its life they should last. But this day and age its throw it away.
It's too bad no one offers a deck that while in the white, gets nitrocarburized (Tenifer, Melonite) etc). Nice and slick and impervious to moisture/rusting after that.
Craftsman HST riding mower/garden tractor w new blades properly installed, does very poor cut even at low setting. How do I verify pulley is (fully) engaged w engine? There seems to be adequate belt tension across the three blades and spindles seem ok.
okay, having a hard time trying to change my blades on a cub cadet xtl 1 tried a 1 1/8 and 1 1/16 both were to big this is my very first time ever doing this.
Shemuel Israel a little bit of heat can always go a long way, try using a torch to heat up the nut! Would need to get it pretty hot though as the rust makes them very hard to remove!
Good question, we've found that the deck will actually rust and rot underneath the bed liner. It creates a space for the moisture to sit and eat away at the metal. The rust cure will absorb into pores of the metal and create a barrier, which prevents moisture/air from rusting it further.
You need to use por-15 or IE s1500 what you can get from International epoxies and sealers through S&R Fasteners in Florida that is a rust inhibitor paint that takes about three or four days to cure and when it cures it cures rock-hard that crap that you're putting underneath that deck will probably wear off about the third time the yard is mowed that is not worth a darn and and besides normal rubberized undercoating holds moisture between the metal and the undercoat which will serve to severely Russ the deck out way faster than had you done nothing be right back where you started
I use cans of walmart spray cooking oil (like pam but half price). Just wash it off. let it dry for a day. spray it underneath and its ready to go. I have a single blade troy built mulching mower.
I got 3 water hose nipples on my deck and use it to clean about 3 times during each mow when using mulching as the build up is heavy when mulching. I spray underside of deck with dry graphite lubricant which is a moisture barrier and after 5 years bead blast the deck and powder coat it ... I do everything at home and material cost to powder coat cost less then a single can of graphite lubricant .. about $3.00 most people have no idea exactly how cheap powder coating really is .
Powder coating cost is with the oven which is the reusable part and can easily be constructed. More manufacturers should get on board with the process but then their products would last too long. Powder coating is the "cats meow".
Great step-by-step advice. Going to purchase some products at the local Tractor Supply Company store tomorrow and work on my deck. Thank you for your expertise!
Thanks for the kind words!
They do have a spray can undercoating I would use that instead of brushing it
Yes
@@tammymhardy6995 ex7
Had a 28 year old Bolens, every fall I scraped, wire wheeled and applied waste oil before putting away for winter. At the end of 28 years it had one small spot that finally rusted through.
Good video for those who have let things go too far. Alternatively, you could cover the discharge with a mulch plate, hook a garden hose up to the washout port, drop the deck to the lowest setting, throttle up the engine, engage the blades, and let it clean itself. Do this once a month or so, and it'll stay almost as clean as the day you bought it. I mow an acre in Florida (wet and thick) and my 4 year old mower deck is spotless underneath. I've only lifted it to remove the blades for sharpening or replacement.
Yeah but how are your spindles holding up with all that water?
@@AnonymousGameWarden if you have spindles that can be ruined by a little bit of spinning water, then you bought the wrong mower. A little water on metal for a few minutes isn't nearly as bad as having wet, packed grass against it 24/7.
Great video ,I use the Krown on my car as well and it work so good. All fuel, brake ,vacuum vent lines. Never rot the exhaust stays good and the parking brake never needs new cables. Door locks and window motors stay good.no electrical problems. It prevents a lot of problems.
Thanks for the vid, Eliminator... I personally would have wire wheeled it and done a rusty metal primer, but if your time is billable and the customer doesn't want to invest much, it's better than nothing!
Don't worry about all the negative comments, you're great teacher keep it up Man!
Thanks for the kind words, and thanks for watching!
Yep. I kept my deck in great shape for 30+ years. Cleaning and oiling at the end of the season. Then i sold it to someone that didn't do this.
Nice great video i did our L-115 J D deck 4 years ago. I used rust-oleum pro paint then spray undercoating. Also i removed those black plastic guards over deck pulleys for easy cleaning & maintenance with leaf blower.
Thanks for watching!
Airframe and Powerplant Mech.> you should take a putty knife and remove the loose paint before oiling the area. The protection will work much better. By-the way ATF is a good rust protectant.
Jerry F wow I did the same with my John Deere, I used 👏🏾👍🏾ATF from my vehicles
I like used motor for all sorts of stuff like this. Been soaking my wooden yard tool handles in it. Dries nicely. I usually spry the underside mower decks with hammerite paint ofter cleaning them up a bit. Goes over light rust ok and dries fast leaving a nice glossy finish. Occasionally spray a little oil for easy grass release.
9:04 I would fill the filter canister with oil, before refitting to the engine. That way oil pressure will build up almost immediately and not starve the bearings of lubrication.
I clean and wire wheel any and all rust of my John deer lawn tractor each cutting season... Then I paint it where any rust was removed... My deck is 27 years old and looks new...
Z71Ranger make a video of it
and that is what is needed... clean the deck up and touch up paint. Don't halfa$$ clean then coat with anything else. This video is a dis-service. When done, that deck was no better off beyond removal of thick caked on grass.
my girlfriend is 27years old to ans still look new , but I've never painted her
That's one of those bucket motors Kohler makes . ALWAYS check the case bolts under the flywheel ,they loosen and the block cracks !
Good stuff! I've installed a "washout port" on both my lawn mower and lawn tractor. Best tip I ever got was lowering he deck to its lowest level and washing it out for a couple of minutes for each mowing. This tip, combined with the one here, has kept both my decks in pristine condition. Thanks for posting.
Awesome, thanks for watching Ron!
I use a spray-on truck under-coat. Sprayed my first mower (90 Snapper) with it when it was new. I wash it out after each use. Mower still in service. Deck still in great shape. Only retouched with the under-coat twice. Sprayed top and bottom.
Too much repeating the same information over and over. Say what you're going to say one time, and then move on. If I miss what you say I'll back up the video and see it again! A good effort with good information! Thanks!
Thanks for the constructive criticism! I'm always trying to improve, this channel is still only a year old so I'm still learning!
i think reiterating helps, saves having to scroll back for some of us
@@michellakhan2340 It wastes time if you didn't miss anything. it is no effort for someone to scroll back and listen to what he said. Don;t waste everyone's time because one idiot names Michella missed something.
Yep, Almost stopped watching because the same thing was said over and over and over. Thanks for the video though. Good info.
“... as I said ...” times 100
I wish they would all go with composite decks like the Honda but I guess they would last too long and that would be unacceptable.
I just had my deck shot blasted and galvanized. Cost me surprisingly little and should out live me!
Best money I ever spent!
Hmm, I'd be interested in hearing how that stands up after a few years!
I know people that have done it and after 12 years their decks have zero deteriation so far. You can only do it to a quality deck, those cheap thin decks will not stand up to the process without warping.
Hot dipped or yellow zinc? What kind of business did that for you? Updates a couple years later?
Also interested, hopefully TH-cam keeps the reply notifications going on this thread
A mower lift is the best thing you can buy to keep the deck clean and sharpen your blades regularly most people don't sharpen their blades enough .,
Most people run it until it breaks, then they bring it to a shop to fix, then they come online and complain about what a piece of crap their mower is.
I use mobile home roof coating. It's a tar like coating. Also comes in silver colored tar. It drys fast compared to automotive coatings, which seems to take forever.
Good thing you got to that deck when you did. It would had disintegrated by spring time for sure. Now the deck is eternal.
hey, nice job, what do you think of mowing i a pile wood chips to shoot around under the deck to loosen up all that grass
No idea, I'm sure it would work, but maybe dangerous lol
I've never seen a product that adheres long enough to extend a mower decks life. Keeping the deck clean is the best way to extend a mower decks life.
I just bought a riding mower. Gotta get this done ASAP.
Was glad to see you use anti-seize, great video.
Does your pulley wiggle test tell you if there is any grease in the bearings or if they are dry? You might want to actually spin them and listen, as well as feel them move to see if they are smooth. Might save time replacing them later since it's apart now.
POR 15 works great on encapsulating rust, preventing further rusting. Will work great on the underside.
I keep hearing about it and will definitely have to check it out!
I did the same thing like 8yrs ago on my "back up Murray" mower. Cleans up easy and I find wet grass doesn't stick and clump up underneath!
my experience is with POR 15 is its like powder coat , one it gets chipped moisture migrates underneath it and rusts underneath and then it comes off in sheets , ya can't really tell its rusting till the sheets falls off , im not a fan , its too hard of a coating
....ya don't want to get the oil on the belt,.... what about the couch. These vids crack me up.. great stuff
I agree that rust preventative is a good product, I use it on my tools, but it is only a coating that must remain on the metal to do its prevention. However, if something hits it like a stone or fairly large branch, the coating could be knocked off or scraped off the metal and then the metal is open to corrosion. Once the rust converter is dried on the metal, it cannot be knocked or scraped off since the rusted metal is changed to a hard different material and is free of rust occurring again.
It would be far better to scrape off all the loose paint then apply POR-15 to all the bare metal, then paint the whole top side. For the underside, paint POR-15 on all of it, followed by a coating of a good abrasion resistant spray paint. Google that, you'll find plenty of choices.
Want it even tougher? Completely dismantle the deck, sandblast it, paint it all with a catalyzed epoxy paint then take it to a Line-X shop to have the underside coated.
I think i might make a video of this, that sounds like a good idea !!
I use my mower to grind up leaves in the fall and it acts like a sand blaster, in spring the under side is almost down to bare metal.
Needs cleaning after every mow while it's wet. Simple. Preserve your mower. Save lots of time. Preserve your body, too.
Me too
My old Jacobson had a cast aluminum deck. Best mower I've ever had. Wish I never would have sold it
Instead of using the rust preventative, it would be better to use a rust converter. The preventative is an oily, waxy lube which prevents further rust, but will attract all the dirt and grass that comes from using the mower since it always stays moist. The converter is a spray that acts like paint but actually converts the rust to another substance that is not rust. Once sprayed, the rusted metal all is converted to a substance which will not rust again. It dries like paint and is a black in color so it will not attract dirt or grass. It can be painted if desired. You can find this converter at Walmart and most hardware stores.
The grass and dirt doesn't actually stick to this stuff, you'd think it does, but I just had a mower (which I sprayed last year) come in for an oil change and the deck was very clean with hardly any grass stuck to it!
Good to know that grass and dirt doesn't stick to it hardly! In all honesty though, rust converters do a better job. I don't recommend using it EVERY YEAR for your customers though, using a converter the first year and then the preventative the following years is what I think would work best.
You are the professional though and if you don't have any problems with what you do now... I wouldn't change anything. I like the saying "If it ain't broke, don't fix it." Have a good day Eliminator!
I always scraped my mower deck and when I take the blades off and then I clean it with a wire brush to get the stuff that don't come off and after that dad and I used an air compressor to blow the deck off to clean what ever we had wire brushed off so it's clean and then we used a can of what they call slip plate which I think that is the name of the stuff and spray the under side of the mower deck and then let it dry it's grey in color and once it's dry it prevents grass from sticking to the deck and you'll never have to scrape it and it usually lasts for about a year and this stuff does work
Would you advice not cutting the grass during really wet days or around a rainy day to avoid all that moisture?
Only cut when it's dry! Then the deck doesn't build up with grass, and it's easy to blow off the top!
Thanks for the quick reply 👍🏼
Humble suggestion from a coasty jack of all trades, I use a wire wheel and if its really rust pitted then a flapper disk on a 4.5'' grinder. Works great!!! good job on the video though
flappr disks for he win
Really concise and to the point. Great job.
Breaking news: MOST (with a few exceptions) Riding Mowers are produced by ONE MOTHER COMPANY (MTD) with slight cosmetic differences. You'd be surprised at just how much on the riding mower can be interchanged between other models concerning parts.
Jeffrey Sasquatch.... er, most of us in the industry know this already 👍
Benton Addison you’d be surprised at the number of people who don’t though.
First off mower decks should be made not to rust in the first place! I have painted, rust prevented, decks before. Anything you put under
the deck, will be worn off with the grass as you mow. Keep good care of your mower, and don't let grass get clumped under it.
There’s no permanent fix. And there’s no way to build it where it won’t wear. You should regularly clean and coat underside of deck. You sound like the type that says it will wear off why waste my valuable time painting it. And as you can see in the video, rust happens. And grass doesn’t stick to painted surfaces anywhere near what it does to unpainted metal.
@@chriswhitley3283 Thanks for your reply. It has been 3years ago since I wrote my comment. Had to read it over again to know what you were referring to. Many decks rust because the grass that builds up (say when wet), people don't clean out regularly. I always cleaned underneath after each time I cut the grass. That way the bottom of the deck gets to dry. The problem with painting it or undercoating it, is that after a few times of cutting, everything underneath is gone. If the deck and all mowers would have rustproof decks, this problem would be fixed. I know that some models of Honda push mowers have rustproof decks. Yes the prices of the mowers would go up, but it would last. Yes I agree that grass won't stick as bad with a painted deck, but the paint won't last. Put your hand when the grass shoots out. That hurts!! That is what the grass is doing to the underside of the deck.
Lawn boy used to have decks made out of magnesium. I had one. That never rusted.
I'm trying to find a stainless steel mower, super rare, have multiple people looking for me as well on commission. We'll see what happens!
@@EliminatorPerformance The only mower I know of is one or two models of Honda. ( Home Depot). Stainless steel would be probably very expensive.
@@EliminatorPerformance yeah my dad had one and that was his baby. Something happened to the motor. Not sure what happened to the whole mower. My dad died of the old timers with a bad hip. Would’ve put motor on it. He had some thieves get rid of some scrap. Couldn’t find a lot of stuff after that.
PB has a great rust neutralizer and preventative. I used it on some damaged area on my truck for the winter in this salt-ladened road area until I can get the area repaired.
its far more important to clean your deck at least once in a year to prevent rust at your mowerdeck, and to put some paint anti rust on it, but the product you show me i dont know that one!!! its very important to me that if you start the new mower deckt is in good shape, so you have a fantactic lawn in good shape as well ! keep doing the good job
Spots on top where paint flaking sand with flap disc on grinder and clean and use high zinc primer and spray paint on top.
thanks for sharing. saving my deck
I wonder if undercoating would be good. like the stuff they spray in a pickup truck bed?
really great information right here as always. thanks EP
i always clean everything off a deck once i have it upside down. Never leave any residue as you have, I use an air scaler for dry grass and rust, then medium sand disc to bare metal. Then phosphoric acid for a day or two,,then prime and paint. My decks cost over 1000 excluding any spindle towers or bearings, so half way work wont get it for me. If i have a crack or hole, it gets welded up and ground smooth on both sides so you cant tell it once painted. Costs time and money but saves in the long run. My blades get sharpened twice each summer at least.
What I would do with my own equipment, most of the stuff I service is for customers and they're looking for something in between long lasting and cost saving if you catch my drift.
There's always a balance between the 2 and this is what I've shown.
Just ordered some. Hope you get credit
Thanks!
I have used Glyptal paint as an under deck coating. Then every time I sharpen blades, I spray some liquid car wax. I don't get any buildup. My deck is in awesome shape. My mower is 20 years old.
I'am really impress with the Rust-Oleum Truck Bed Coating> i just brush it on 2 coats with 2 hours drying time for each coat NEED TO PLUG THEM HOLES there enough air coming out of the pulley mounts
I also use a truck bed liner, 2 to 3 coats, lasts about 3 years. when it's worn away to the steel I apply another 3 coats. What this guy did is a waste of time, cut your grass once and it will disappear! I use Harbor Freight bed liner.....Cheap.
Here in Florida, with our sandy soil, desks get sand blasted every time you mow. I have had blades wear off the wing/lift section in less than an hour. Blades don't last long and frequent sharpening is required. Decks don't rust out, they just wear thru.
Wow, that's pretty crazy thanks for sharing!
We don't have anything like that around here! In fact, it's quite the opposite.
I'm actually looking for a '69 fastback mustang, and everyone I've found it rotted out, we have sooo much humidity down here. I live like 20mins from Niagara Falls, so it's always super humid.
Mower decks, vehicles, you name it, they all rust!
Robert Heinkel You got that right, in Florida plan on a new deck for about 287 bucks in 3 years. Rust will never have a chance to happen, no metal left to rust. Blades last 3 or 4 times on 5 acre mowing till no blade is left. Just a ragged alien looking used to be a blade thing.
John Fenman Agree on the Fl sandy soil. I wore a hole in an aluminum deck 21 Honda in two seasons cutting once a week only in summer. I patched it with a riveted stainless steel sheet. Next mower I’ll inspect the deck after a few cuts to see a pattern where the swirl action is battering the deck with the sand. A PM fix would be to add a length of stainless barrier in that location to prevent it abrading through the alum. Steel deck holds up longer but eventually fails with Fl soil. Stainless shield is a must for some Fl regions.
Robert Heinkel ..... here in North Carolina we have some very sandy soil as well. I have spots on my lawn that are very Sandy or at least used to be. Right before you cut the worst Parts just spray a little water from a garden hose and the sand becomes heavy enough and will not get up in a road your blades or your deck. I know it sounds silly but it works and doesn't take that much water to do it. You just need to spray it down right before you mow and at least it will reduce it dramatically even if you don't get every square foot of it done. It usually took me about 5 minutes to wet those areas down. I hope it helps
YEP, I'm north central Fl. I have found the top of line Gator blades to outlast others
With 30 plus years of mower and tractor experience, this video is only a band aid, I recommend pulling off your deck remove the blades scrape off what you can. Then take a wire brush wheel and a 4in. grinder clean off all the rust that you can, wash off with soap and water, blow dry with air pressure wipe down with mineral sprits get a gallon can of boiled linseed oil, take a blow dryer or heat gun and heat the areas this expands themetal and opens rusted pores brush on heavy do not leave puddles I do two coats about 1 hour apart. This will take about 48 hours to cure and will last about 3 years.Paint or undercoat is a waste of time nothing I no of will permanently stick to a mower deck because when mowing your deck is creating a vacuum pulling up clippings and dirt.The dirt contains sand, so every time you are mowing your sandblasting your deck. remember to clean with soap and water a mineral sprits hope this helps and do not use deck till it dries or cures
I agree with your comment. He should have at least used a chipping hammer to remove the heavy scale because the rust is still working under the heavy scale. I didn't know about the linseed oil but I will certainly give it a try. I clean and strip my deck, I then use a rust converter (which really is a heavy primer) then I cover it in an ashfault undercoating which does pretty much dries hard over the winter then does remain on for the best part of the summer, come fall the bottom of my deck is in pretty nice shape and I repeat the process. This guy making the video is doing some good but he is only getting part of the job done.
Great video, love the cause and effect info provided.
Thanks for watching!
Something else that is important, is that all "cut" plants including flowers, vegetables, and grass, give off acids. They do not while growing, only after they have been cut! So this acid, mixed with the moisture, accelerates the rusting! I like to use something like this every year as well once I clean m deck in the Fall.
Yes absolutely, mentioned that in my latest deck repair video
I used Rust Cure 3000 on the frame of my truck, after a few months all the rust started coming off like scales! Now after being treated 2 years ago, the frame only has light surface rust not the heavy stuff that used to be there.
Should scrape all that bubbled paint off. Just asking for more rust.
Yup! That mower deck "has the cancer", and won't last two more seasons unless it is properly dealt with by removing that bubbled up paint..
9:27 I saw that too. Use a flexible putty knife to expose all the spots where the paint has failed, so that you can hit it all with the rust preventative (or better still, sand until you reach clean metal all around the spot, use a phosphoric acid rust converter, then prime & paint). Leaving the paint on might look nicer for a while, but it keeps you from treating the rust that's growing behind it.
Of course, if you're doing this as a business, you make your recommendations, and then do whatever the customer is willing to pay for!
@@frankdavidson9675 Years ago, I bought one of those Central Pneumatic 5-gal sandblasting tanks from Hazard Fraught to clean up some parts for a car I was restoring. It's long gone now, but I'll be buying another when I rebuild my next mower deck. If you're taking the trouble to sand and repaint anyway, you might as well do it on a clean surface.
Clean mine each fall. I use Oven Cleaner underside and pressure washer. dawn dish soap on upper. Comes out great on my 79 Ariens RM 1028
thanks for posting and showing how to rustproof the deck, i have a walkbehind so same thing, great idea cause that rust is a pain
zmanvideo1 Thanks & yes it's very easy, you can buy all that stuff at your local hardware store most likely!
No dote abote that! My wife is is from BC. She's a real beauty eh!
Use leaf blower to clean off after use, hosing causes rust.
I just got a new Husqvana electric ride on for work, let me say I had my doubts about the battery life but I work all day and it barely drops a light. It mows great too and has none of the maintenance issues of petrol mowers except the importance of cleaning etc.
everyones a critic. I think the video is well done. i had a part fall off mine and this helped me identify it.
Thank you!
Keep it positive, I agree. Thank you Michella
POR-15 is a much better treatment for a mower deck. Use it all the time on farm equipment because of how it keeps a lasting slick finish for grass and such to slip off.
Thanks, will look into it, never heard if it in Canada
I agree. I used POR-15 on little garden trailer and I cant believe after 5 yrs of no or very little rust. Left outside in Michigan weather the whole time. Its expensive.
POR-15 is hugely popular in the States.
Por15 is available in Canada. I think its a 2 part system though and pricey, as well as way more prep. Autobody places sell it for sure. I went with Rust Mort. I think Por15 is better then what both of us use from what I've seen.
I have never tried the mower deck though, that's why I'm here.
Never heard of the stuff your using, sounds like Rust Mort. Is there a shelf life? I've had mine a few years.
Rust Mort is a chemical rust neutralizer and is not paint, which I have also used on other projects but it is not the same POR15 which is paint. Yes POR15 is very expensive. Also POR15 states that if one drop of water or sweat enters the open can it should be considered useless. Eastwood has a similar product as POR15 and is probably cheaper
What is the reason for the gas tank moving around under the seat John Deere L110
Use a wire cup brush on the end of a drill and get rid of the rust, put rust converter on it then the rust preventer.
I use a side grinder with a wire wheel perfect for cleaning a underside
I also use ATF on my snowblower at the end of the winter seasons and during the winter seasons as well.🌨🌩⛈🌧🌦❄️☃️⛄️💦💧🌨💨🌬🌊
In the 50's and 60's some decks were made not to rust... The lawn mower industry changed real quick.
Rusty Decks, Sell New Mowers.
$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$>>>>>> GREED WINS AGAIN.
I also pour on wooden crossties to make them last 50 years
Very detailed info. Many thanks. Any thoughts on using rust paint as undercoating ? I have an old paint can of it so trying to use it for something.
Thanks William, you could use what's called a "rust converter" so I'd recommend taking a wire wheel on a drill to the whole underside, convert the rust to painteable metal, then use your rust paint.
Once dry, I'd then recommend undercoating with a rust inhibitor.
That's how I'd do my own deck, we have to understand this is for a customer, and I'm charging for my labour and materials!
Simply great! Thank you.
Thanks for watching!
You had the deck off why not take it all apart and wire wheel it down and paint the top and grease all the pivots and bearing points? Plus all that rough stuff under the deck will allow the grass to stick to it. I clean all the rust off under the deck and then use a 5 min epoxy to seal and smooth it out. Just sand in between coats until it "relevels" the area. Then I hit it with rust restorer paint and then use a mixture of 3/4 axle grease and 1/4 transmission fluid to coat the bottom. That 5 min. epoxy is pretty tough, I even use it to smooth out badly rusted axles on push mowers and tracked snowblowers... Beats paying for a new axle. Or letting it wear the inside of the wheel or track wheel out even more.
Then tell your customers that they should have their deck done every other year. Once you explain to them to have their equipment checked and fixed BEFORE something breaks, it will make sense to a majority of them. I offer mine preventative maintenance plans... I charge a flat rate plus any parts and I don't spank them on the parts. And tell them how important it is to wash all the grass off the mower and under the deck after they are done mowing.
I have a 1992 craftsman 42" hydro with the original deck and even the tires and a 1995 craftsman 5/23 track drive snowblower all original and I leave them parked outside all year long and I live in New York. They are parked on pavement, not grass or dirt... Parking them on grass or dirt makes anything rust faster.
kiddiescripterkiller All the spindles we're greased (some are enclosed bearings and others have grease nipples) as for smoothing out the underside, I've seen brand new decks with grass stuck to them, as I said in the video, grass sticks anyways, so it's better to have a non drip rust inhibitor in between the deck and grass.
I charge by the hour, so there's a time/value that I have to try and stick with, I take a wire wheel and break up the rough stuff, anything else is just overkill in my opinion.
I've been doing it this way for a few years now and we've never had one come back that was rotted out!
We occasionally try out new products to see what works best, but the rust check and Krown rust inhibitor have worked well in the past.
Would truck bed liner(I think is called rhino liner) or something like flex seal render the same results?
Thanks now I know I really need to clean my deck.Lol. Never tryed the oil but I think I will give it a try.Thanks for the info...
did not know about this site , thank you
Thanks for watching!
On my new TS348 XD tractor which I bought in April 2019, first thing I did was spray 2 cans of Graphite deck coating from tractor supply, I think it did a good job coating the deck but grass still stuck and I never cut wet grass. This cutting season after 3 cuts of an acre lawn I put the Husqvarna up on a lift and cleaned underneath, scrapped and blew of the grass and hit it hard with 2 coats of fresh silicone out of the spray can. Do you think the silicone is a good choice? Thanks.
Anything that helps creates a barrier between the metal deck and the outside air is good. Usually you want to stick to oil based products, but I'm sure silicone would work. What you don't want to do is use a rubber coating like I've seen before. Some guys have made videos and it's horrible because you'll end up getting moisture build up in between the metal deck and the rubber coating. Let me know how the silicone holds up, we've never had an issue with rust cure!
@@EliminatorPerformance Thanks. I think the Graphite coating is still there, but I thought hitting with the silicone would back that up..we shall see. I soaked it good. :)
I have a deck that is clean I cleaned it up with steel wool and treated it with Ospho and it still looks new I don't make it a habit to mow my lawn when it is wet maybe that's why it's not rusting out after 8 years
Thats the best thing for the mower deck, cut when it's dry! Thanks for watching!
i took used motor oil and a paint brush and painted the oil own mine let dry 3 days grass does not stick to deck
Which do you like better: the Rust Cure Formula 3000, or Krown?
Rust Cure Formula 3000 by far!
Good info for sure but next time maybe clean under the tractor, it was a mess when you were putting the deck back on.
Thanks for watching!
I use wire brushes with my drill to remove anything flaky like rust or paint. Flaking paint traps water under it. Get most of the rust removed with the wire brushes then spray Rustoleum Rust Converter on the remaining rust to stop further rust. I bought John Deere yellow paint on Amazon when everything was nice and dry. Under the now cleaned deck when all the grass and stuff is clean I spray Blaster Surface Shield to seal it and it's good for 2 years before it needs another spray.
RUST NEVER SLEEPS just keep that one thought in mind. Unless you get down to bare metal, the rusted area will continue to eat away at metal. Just my opinion
She's a sweet ride! Thanks for the video
Thanks for watching Condor!
First off if you went to those lengths why not use a wire wheel to completely clean the deck underside thoroughly, then apply your undercoat solution? Just saying.... On my new 22 hp Cub Cadet 46" deck I did, and only took about 10, 15 more minutes but it was raining here as well so what was the rush. I Primed the bare metal , painted then used my undercoat solution and it gave me a protected like new under deck. Will I have to do it again? I'm sure but I feel it's worth it in the long run to not cut corners. I have a 20+ year's old Scott's 20 hp tractor, bought it second hand and it still runs great with the deck not rusted out. The spindles had to be changed but what do you want from a machine with countless hours and years of massive use. You know while in the big box store's I see folks buying new mowers so I talk to them and they most always say, "Yeah I got one new about 5 years ago but it's shot." Clean it, Change the oil, filters, air cleaner, spark plug and for heaven's sake take the time to address that deck. Without it you can't mow, it's just something to pull carts and ride around on. Never had a brand new one before so I wonder how long this one will last, 30 years? I'm 61 so if I last that long probably.
I have a 20 year old poulan pro. Bought it new and have cleaned the crap out from under it once a year when i sharpen the blades. Now replacing the deck spindles because one took a dump. Change oil and blow out and change the air cleaner more than once in its life they should last. But this day and age its throw it away.
Use old motor oil when you change the oil in your lawn tractor
Fluid film works well to prevent rust
Yes I just received some Würth Film from a friend, will have to test it out!
not the same. get fluid film, it's environmentally friendly as it's lanolin wax based....food grade. toss that Krown crap i the trash
It's too bad no one offers a deck that while in the white, gets nitrocarburized (Tenifer, Melonite) etc). Nice and slick and impervious to moisture/rusting after that.
How often do you apply the rust preventive
Usually once a year when I do a service!
@@EliminatorPerformance thank you
Craftsman HST riding mower/garden tractor w new blades properly installed, does very poor cut even at low setting. How do I verify pulley is (fully) engaged w engine? There seems to be adequate belt tension across the three blades and spindles seem ok.
What size scoket did you use to remove the blades ?
Shemuel Israel I believe a 13/16" or a 15/16" I can't remember
okay, having a hard time trying to change my blades on a cub cadet xtl 1 tried a 1 1/8 and 1 1/16 both were to big this is my very first time ever doing this.
Shemuel Israel may be a 1" or 15/16"
okay, thanks I need to go buy a breaker bar and retrun these sockets, hate to take this to the shop but might have too if I can't get them off.
Shemuel Israel a little bit of heat can always go a long way, try using a torch to heat up the nut! Would need to get it pretty hot though as the rust makes them very hard to remove!
Well explained-good job!
Thanks for watching!
Why not use a can of the spray on or roll on truck bed liner underneath (after neutralizing the rust)
Good question, we've found that the deck will actually rust and rot underneath the bed liner. It creates a space for the moisture to sit and eat away at the metal.
The rust cure will absorb into pores of the metal and create a barrier, which prevents moisture/air from rusting it further.
Good job for a lazy mower owner.
I always wash my deck after mowing..and I don't let water stand on the top of it.
Wire bush as much as you can, but the real trick to get that smooth finish is 60 grit sandpaper. Removes loose paint and any raised rust spots.
You need to use por-15 or IE s1500 what you can get from International epoxies and sealers through S&R Fasteners in Florida that is a rust inhibitor paint that takes about three or four days to cure and when it cures it cures rock-hard that crap that you're putting underneath that deck will probably wear off about the third time the yard is mowed that is not worth a darn and and besides normal rubberized undercoating holds moisture between the metal and the undercoat which will serve to severely Russ the deck out way faster than had you done nothing be right back where you started
I clean my deck off with the pressure washer after every use and wire wheel it and repaint it at the beginning of each season
Clean mine at the end of cutting season 🤔😎🍺👌
I use burn motor oil and coat it 5/6 times in a day with big brush
Really help keep it clean and not stick to bottom
I enjoyed your video. Can I purchase that rust preventative in any auto parts store?
Should be able to get it at NAPA or Canadian Tire, or directly online on their website; corrosionfree.com/store/rust-cure-formula-3000-2-pack/
@@EliminatorPerformance Thank you very much. I appreciate the information.
Great video!
Thanks for watching Jeff!
I use cans of walmart spray cooking oil (like pam but half price). Just wash it off. let it dry for a day. spray it underneath and its ready to go. I have a single blade troy built mulching mower.
I got 3 water hose nipples on my deck and use it to clean about 3 times during each mow when using mulching as the build up is heavy when mulching. I spray underside of deck with dry graphite lubricant which is a moisture barrier and after 5 years bead blast the deck and powder coat it ... I do everything at home and material cost to powder coat cost less then a single can of graphite lubricant .. about $3.00 most people have no idea exactly how cheap powder coating really is .
Powder coating cost is with the oven which is the reusable part and can easily be constructed. More manufacturers should get on board with the process but then their products would last too long. Powder coating is the "cats meow".
Every other season I use a heavy undercoating made for under vehicles works great.
This is basically the same stuff, krown wasn't as good as the rust cure formula 3000 though!