Your video was extremely helpful and gave me the confidence to complete the job. Thank you! I did it on jack stands in my garage with floorjacks as my second set of hands. I lost count of how many times I crawed under the car, only to get back out from underneath, Lol. Anyone considering doing this job, just completely remove the subframe and front differential, it's really not difficult or much more effort and makes access to removing the pan and getting it back up so much easier! I used 4 zip ties to hold the gasket to the pan to get all of the bolts started, rather than a little trans prep to the block. I opted to replace out my water pump, thermostat and cooling hoses as preventative maintenance with the subframe was down. I also degreased, wire brushed and coated the subframe with rust preventative and then painted it gloss black while It was out. It looks brand new! Like most things, the first time you do something always takes the longest.
Another excellent training video (for any oil pan job). The quality of the video is excellent. The tips, ie. sharpie to mark so you don't lose your place is a great tip.The fact that everything is always clean helps me to understand all those times where I did not do a good job cleaning and it came back to me as a job to have to re-do. Thanks Kurt!
Gasket has a good leak and I am tackiling this job right now. Unfortunately it is a two fold reason as my VANOS bolts sheared off at startup. I have found 4 of the 8 pieces from the intake side. Hoping for no damage but need to find those other pieces. Thank you so much for this video, extremely helpful
Your great cleaning the parts and reinstalling them. Not even BMW does that, they try to beat the flat rate clock. Believe me, we repair their f*** ups.
Very well done, my friends car is going in today for this. Might do my 530xi touring next year can’t do it now in my lane way 🇨🇦❄️little cold and snowing
Great work. One of the best xDrive videos on oil pan gasket. Well explained and knows what you’re doing. What is the name of that “trans prep low-melt grease” you’ve used to prep the gasket? Thank you
Great video. I have done an e46xi oil pan gasket. I like the sharpie idea. Keep them coming. What other component should be replaced while doing the job?
Thanks Mitlul. Every part that you remove is an opportunity to inspect it for wear. We ended up replacing most of the front suspension parts when we did this job!
@@klassikats I have 90k miles. Replacing all front suspension components due to age/miles. Wondering if I should replace the axles as they will be out.
@@klassikats What's your thought on water pump & thermostat for 328i? Do 328i last longer than 335? Am thinking about replacing while doing oil pan gasket.
No i did not replace the drive shaft bolts. These bolts are a regular steel, grade 10.9 bolt and can be re-used with out any issues. thanks for watching
I did the job in a day, and I would expect a shop to charge around 6 hours to do the job. Doing the job at home may take you a little longer just because without a lift or all the tools it will take a little longer. Thanks for watching, Kurt
Currently doing this job on my own with jacks stands in my driveway. Really wish I removed the front differential instead of following a “easier method” I found on the forums. Keeping the diff attached made for a much more difficult job to clean and realign the pan later on, not to mention the damage I cause to the oil sensor. I’m curious how you pulled the CV half shafts out, especially on the passenger side.
Hayk, The CV shafts are just held in by a snap ring on the end of the shaft where it connects to the differential. There are two methods to remove the shaft. The first is to just grab the shaft and give it a good yank and see if the snap ring releases. the other way is to carefully pry the CV shaft until the circlip releases and the shaft will slide out. good luck with your project
i have a slight leak but its not leaking to the drop. i dont even know if its the gasket. do i need to remove the front diff for this? any way around it. seems like parts alone are over 350!
Yes, the front differential has to come out. The parts cost on this job is the cheap part of the job. You are looking at about $60 for the gasket and bolt kit, plus your favorite engine oil and oil filter. It's the labor side of this job that's expensive. If the gasket is just weeping, then you have some time to decide what to do. However, it won't get any better, just worse. Thanks for watching
Thanks, Pretty much all the torques on this job are a torque angle measurement and do not require the use of a torque wrench. I know we showed the oil pan bolt torque angle, was there another specific bolt spec you were looking for? Thanks Kurt
@@klassikats Yes true, however most torque to yeild bolts have a starting torque spec before you apply the torque angle. I was mostly looking for subframe torque specs. I wasn't able to find them anywhere so I decided to go 100Nm on the first pass, then the German spec of guttentight.
bd8ba3c866c8cbc330ab-7b26c6f3e01bf511d4da3315c66902d6.r6.cf1.rackcdn.com/PDF_11799_BMW_N54_Valve_Cover_Gasket_Replacement.pdf This link covers that job. May answer more questions on your N54 engine. Thanks for watching. Klassik ATS
The front diff can be removed after removing the front suspension frame. You will need to make sure that the engine is supported from above using the engine support brace. You can purchase one here amzn.to/35r8iZF from amazon. The differential is mounted to the side of the oil pan using 4 bolts. You will need to remove both front axles and the drive shaft before you undo the 4 mounting bolts. Hope that helps and thanks for watching
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Your video was extremely helpful and gave me the confidence to complete the job. Thank you! I did it on jack stands in my garage with floorjacks as my second set of hands. I lost count of how many times I crawed under the car, only to get back out from underneath, Lol. Anyone considering doing this job, just completely remove the subframe and front differential, it's really not difficult or much more effort and makes access to removing the pan and getting it back up so much easier! I used 4 zip ties to hold the gasket to the pan to get all of the bolts started, rather than a little trans prep to the block. I opted to replace out my water pump, thermostat and cooling hoses as preventative maintenance with the subframe was down. I also degreased, wire brushed and coated the subframe with rust preventative and then painted it gloss black while It was out. It looks brand new! Like most things, the first time you do something always takes the longest.
Craig well done. Yes it is not a hard job but it is a long job.
Thanks for watching and I'm glad that our video helped.
Kurt
Another excellent training video (for any oil pan job). The quality of the video is excellent. The tips, ie. sharpie to mark so you don't lose your place is a great tip.The fact that everything is always clean helps me to understand all those times where I did not do a good job cleaning and it came back to me as a job to have to re-do. Thanks Kurt!
Glad it was helpful!
Gasket has a good leak and I am tackiling this job right now. Unfortunately it is a two fold reason as my VANOS bolts sheared off at startup. I have found 4 of the 8 pieces from the intake side.
Hoping for no damage but need to find those other pieces. Thank you so much for this video, extremely helpful
Sound bad! Good luck with the work. S
Ive been looking for this video for some time. Thank You.
You're Welcome!
Your great cleaning the parts and reinstalling them. Not even BMW does that, they try to beat the flat rate clock. Believe me, we repair their f*** ups.
Cleaning is often the biggest part of the job!
Very well done, my friends car is going in today for this. Might do my 530xi touring next year can’t do it now in my lane way 🇨🇦❄️little cold and snowing
doing the job on the ground in snow not my idea of fun either.
Thanks
Kurt
Great work. One of the best xDrive videos on oil pan gasket. Well explained and knows what you’re doing.
What is the name of that “trans prep low-melt grease” you’ve used to prep the gasket?
Thank you
The grease is "Trans Prep" Grease You can buy it here on amazon. amzn.to/3RZrYNO
Kurt
Nice work . Helpful. As a technician in the USA you've instructed me to my paycheck. I was cussing in every language before I watched this video. 😂
Glad to help
Kurt
Dropping tie rods and turning them the 90 degrees gave you enough clearance? I don't want to remove steering rack
Yes, I was able to leave the rack connected to the hydraulics and just let it hang down.
Great video. I have done an e46xi oil pan gasket. I like the sharpie idea. Keep them coming. What other component should be replaced while doing the job?
Thanks Mitlul. Every part that you remove is an opportunity to inspect it for wear. We ended up replacing most of the front suspension parts when we did this job!
@@klassikats I have 90k miles. Replacing all front suspension components due to age/miles. Wondering if I should replace the axles as they will be out.
@@lutimletap648 Our axels were fine at 133k miles. If the boots are good I would look to reuse.
@@klassikats What's your thought on water pump & thermostat for 328i? Do 328i last longer than 335?
Am thinking about replacing while doing oil pan gasket.
Hello again Mitlul, if it aint't broke don't fix it.
The sharpie idea 💡 was awesome! Thank you! Did you replace the bolts in the input drive shaft??
No i did not replace the drive shaft bolts. These bolts are a regular steel, grade 10.9 bolt and can be re-used with out any issues.
thanks for watching
Hello there, is the power steering pump attached to the oil pan gasket?
No, the pump is on top of the engine. Thanks for watching, good luck with the job.
Roughy how many hours would it take an average garage to do the job? Or how long did it take you?
I did the job in a day, and I would expect a shop to charge around 6 hours to do the job. Doing the job at home may take you a little longer just because without a lift or all the tools it will take a little longer.
Thanks for watching,
Kurt
Currently doing this job on my own with jacks stands in my driveway. Really wish I removed the front differential instead of following a “easier method” I found on the forums. Keeping the diff attached made for a much more difficult job to clean and realign the pan later on, not to mention the damage I cause to the oil sensor.
I’m curious how you pulled the CV half shafts out, especially on the passenger side.
Hayk, The CV shafts are just held in by a snap ring on the end of the shaft where it connects to the differential. There are two methods to remove the shaft. The first is to just grab the shaft and give it a good yank and see if the snap ring releases. the other way is to carefully pry the CV shaft until the circlip releases and the shaft will slide out. good luck with your project
Great job.
What a nightmare though....
Louis,
Yes it is a lot of work but none of it is particularly hard. Just one step at a time and next thing you know its all done.
Thanks for watching
i have a slight leak but its not leaking to the drop. i dont even know if its the gasket. do i need to remove the front diff for this? any way around it. seems like parts alone are over 350!
Yes, the front differential has to come out. The parts cost on this job is the cheap part of the job. You are looking at about $60 for the gasket and bolt kit, plus your favorite engine oil and oil filter. It's the labor side of this job that's expensive. If the gasket is just weeping, then you have some time to decide what to do. However, it won't get any better, just worse.
Thanks for watching
Good time to replace your water pump , thermostat and engine mounts just because your Balls 🥜 deep in it and there right there during the oil pan job!
Yes it is a great time to do those items if needed.
Kurt
video was helpful however for reassembly, some torque specs would be nice.
Thanks,
Pretty much all the torques on this job are a torque angle measurement and do not require the use of a torque wrench. I know we showed the oil pan bolt torque angle, was there another specific bolt spec you were looking for?
Thanks
Kurt
@@klassikats Yes true, however most torque to yeild bolts have a starting torque spec before you apply the torque angle. I was mostly looking for subframe torque specs. I wasn't able to find them anywhere so I decided to go 100Nm on the first pass, then the German spec of guttentight.
Would this be the same process for a 07 335xi ?
Robert,
Yes it would.
Thanks for watching
I wish I could do it myself too, ineeded it in my car.
Not a Hard job just time consuming.
Thanks for watching
Kurt
What is the torque specification on the valve cover for a 2010 535I
bd8ba3c866c8cbc330ab-7b26c6f3e01bf511d4da3315c66902d6.r6.cf1.rackcdn.com/PDF_11799_BMW_N54_Valve_Cover_Gasket_Replacement.pdf
This link covers that job. May answer more questions on your N54 engine. Thanks for watching. Klassik ATS
removal of diff pls??
The front diff can be removed after removing the front suspension frame. You will need to make sure that the engine is supported from above using the engine support brace. You can purchase one here amzn.to/35r8iZF from amazon. The differential is mounted to the side of the oil pan using 4 bolts. You will need to remove both front axles and the drive shaft before you undo the 4 mounting bolts.
Hope that helps and thanks for watching
That would continue to leak in my world.
clean and dry in mine....
thanks for watching
This job.
Gasket is cheap.
Labor expensive.
🙃
Yes you are correct....
Thanks For watching