Extremely thorough video. I've been doing my own research and have been building towards 37's for a while now- everything I've found in my research was covered here. Also, thanks for having a very calm demeanor- a huge change of pace for YT videos.
@@jcbert6969 Thank you for the comment! I don’t have exact numbers (I need to do a separate video where I break down cost!) but from a stock Jeep to the “weekend warrior on 37s” level plan on $10k as a middle of the road figure - definitely more if you have everything done at a shop. A lot of it depends on the brand of parts you use as well - as with most things, with Jeep parts you get what you pay for! I’ve learned that lesson the hard way! Remember too that you can stagger some of these mods vs doing them all at once. Hope that helps!
@@4XTRAIL once again, spot on. For me, I went with a ProRock44 (and everything included with that), control arms, new shocks and coils, a big brake kit, longer brake lines, driveshafts and saving for the hydro assist. Looking forward to a new video on cost estimates for sure!
So I guess I would be in your weekend warrior category. My question is, if the 35's I'm running now weigh the same if not more than the 37in milestar's I plan on upgrading to, would I still have more strain. I have a 6speed with 3.73s on 3.5in. lift. I tow alot quite often, just my trailer and fourwheelers is a haul of just over 3,000lbs and the jeep does fine besides having to stay in 5th while hauling that load on the highway. Sorry for the long comment but I hope you can answer this for me.
@@lanceparrish8352 Hey Lance, I’d say if the weight is the same you won’t experience much more load on your axle and steering components. Where you’ll notice it will be with gearing because of the larger diameter. The fact that yours is a manual may help offset this a little but I would guess 37s + towing will be tough with 3:73s. The fact that the Patagonia’s are closer to 36” in actual height will help a little but you’re kind of splitting hairs at that point. I’d guess you could get away with 3:73s and a lighter 37 with manual box for daily driving but the towing aspect tells me you’ll really want something like 4:88s before too long. Hope that helps!
Seriously cant believe you're sitting at 1.6k subs, This video is super helpful for new jeepers and the top comment is very true. You're straight to the point and know what you're talking about. We also have the same setup lol.
This is all sooo true. I put 37s on my JKU earlier this year and with that, has come so many more mods. All things I wish I would have known BEFORE I went there. Haha but it’s definitely a learning experience. I’ll be sharing this with everyone who asks me about my set up before they decide to go with 37s also. 😅👍🏼
Great Video!! Weekend Warrior here minus the daily driver part. Glad to see you making the Dana30 axle work for you. Too many people hate on the Dana30 but it can handle some pretty good wheeling for the average guy. I’ll be dining the chromoly shafts soon and truss Kit.
If running a d30 with upgraded axle shafts and trussed, I would worry about ring a pinion. I’ve always had the mindset the weakest link should be easier to fix. Maybe run some cheap u joints. 🤔 I’d rather change a u joint or even a axle shaft, trail side then a ring and pinion.
This video is phenomenal. I’m a commuter at the moment because of school and have 33s currently. Upgrading to 35s is hard when 37s aren’t necessarily unobtainable. Thank you for the info
Someone that finally mentions brakes on 37s. I went with Dynatrac BBK and it is a PHENOMINAL kit. For reference, the Jeep stops better on my 130lb corners now than when it did on stock BGGoodrich KM2s. No BS, it stops as well as my previous C6 Z06 did - relatively speaking here. What is nice about Dynatrac's kit is that it's balanced to reduce nose dive. 14.25" rotors in rear and 13.5 up front. They're also American made unlike Teraflex's set. Do not go slotted or drilled rotors. Traps mud and debris too easily.
Great video, super helpful and clearly communicated. You talked me out of going down the road towards 37s haha. I love the look and off-road capabilities of the 37, but not worth the extra $10k+ for those few inches to me. Appreciate it.
3.5" backspace wheels (Method 105) run 37's like it's nothing. I had that on my JK with 17x9 wheels and 37x12.50/17. On my Gladiator, 4.5" backspace on Fuel wheels should suffice. I prefer to widen them out with wheel backspace over spacers, but that caused me to have to buy another set of wheels on my JK when moving from 35 to 37.
Another point to remember is tire weight. The Patagonia MT’s 37 and 38 inch tires are actually lighter than most other 35 inch tire brands and half the weight of most other 37 or 38’s so they don’t put as much stress on the components so it’s good practice to compare weight when selecting which tire you’ll be running. We have the exact same Jeep. I have a black 2016 jku with 38 inch Patagonias. I bought a buddy of mines front and rear rubicon axle set out of his rubicon and trussed both front and rear with 4.88’s and OX cable lockers front and rear with a six speed manual with the 4 to 1 transfer case. You can walk faster than it will crawl. Our jeeps actually look identical.
Thank you ! I am gonna show my wife this ! She has a stock 16 willys 2 door! And desperately want the biggest lift and tire available ! If I can only get her to pay attention to hear all the work involved !
Finally, Advices that never break the bank, Thank you for sharing some budget and we'll thought options for average Joe's like me who wants to wheel but won't spend a ton, Share more advices , it would be of good help.
I ran 37” bfg ko2s on my 16 JKU for 4 years and off roaded it quite often. Only front end upgrade was axle c gussets welded in and 4.56 gears front and rear. No lockers. Thing ran perfectly fine never broke a single thing in the front end other than some end link bushings and other bushings normal wear and tear. My Jeep I installed a terra flex 3” coil lift, fox 2.0 shocks, front and rear adjustable track bars and STOCK fenders. Bump stops 2” only in the rear. Stock Willy’s wheeler wheels with 1.25” spacers.
Great video man, You should do a video of how to get quality parts for cheap(without sacrificing quality) for all the upgrades here and an estimation of cost for everything separately and together. keep pumping out the great videos, you got a new subscriber here.
Great advice, I think I’ll stick with my plan to go 2.5” and 35s on my new Rubicon based on your recommendations. Very well thought out advice based on my experience with a local 4x4 and Jeep shop
3.21 were standard on JK/JKU sport models, 3.73 came with Sports with Tow Package and of course Rubicon's are typically 4.10's. Some Hard Rock Editions came with 3.73 since 4.10's were a factory Option for 2015 models.
Just an FYI,, on JK's the max tow package is how you get 3.73's on non-Willys edition Jeeps. Either way, they need to go. Also, I only run 35's and went with 4.88's. I came from the smallest possible stock tires and it returned it back to that feel. I appreciated your approach as others have said. My only suggestion would be some B roll of your axles and drive shafts.
There are certainly exceptions depending on your specific scenario! This video takes into account the longevity and drive-ability of the Jeep as a whole not just what you need to fit the tires onto the vehicle. Believe it or not, this is a modest list compared to what some folks will say you “need”. But if your setup is working well for you so far that’s great! All the best!
I run 3.5" suspension, 1.25" body oem rubicon wheels , 1.75 spidertrax spacers. 4.10 gears with tremec 5 speed trans . Big brake kit, psc titan xd box, minor trimming, drag link flip. Stock shafts and drive shafts with a terra high angle cv. Stock steering tie rod and rod end are all strong, moog oem replacements are greasable. Stock ball joints went a long time, but terras are coming soon. Dana 30 housings are the same tubes as a Rubicon d44.
I know this is an old video. What you need to run 37s depends a lot on your model. JKs, even Rubicons, require a bit more to get there than JLs. A JLR can be put on a 2" puck spacer lift kit and then you're pretty much set, assuming you have a wheel with the proper offset. You'd probably want to regear but you could run it. Anything other than a Rubicon would require high clearance fender flares in addition to the lift, plus reinforced axle shafts in the front (rear, too, if you don't have the rear Dana 44) and preferably some HD ball joints plus some better breaks. Plus a tailgate reinforcement kit and spare tire relocation bracket.
Good content and advice. I have 35's with 3" lift. Definitely will be going 37's in the future. I just started my jeep channel and will be doing a video on what mods I have in a future video.
I believe Amazon sells some inexpensive cross bars that connect to the hardtop gutter but they would just be for lighter cargo. For a rooftop tent I would recommend the rhino rack platform system! Hope that helps.
Ran 37's on my 2010 4dr Rubicon. 2.5" lift Poison Spyder high clearance flares Poison Spyder brawler rockers Small pinch weld trim. Regeared to 5.13 gears. AEV ProCal got it within 1mph of GPS. 37x12.5'-17 TRXUS MT. handled very well on highway and the off road at Uwharrie. I didn't do the most extreme trails. Drive it on highway from NC to MA very comfortably too. Added note: River Raider Off Road engine to gas tank skid plate kit saves me from hang ups that the stock aid plate would cause. Also improve aerodynamics on the road. Got the same MPG highway after the mods as it did bone stock despite weighing a good 700 pounds more.
I 100% "approve this message." I don't think an ounce of this was misinformation. If I missed it my bad, I did try to find at least one thing that could have been overlooked, but it would be reasonable to also suggest flat fenders for anyone going offroad. I mean damn, you even snuck the AEV ProCal suggestion in there. All bases covered. How dare you not recommend extended brake lines, lol?! I was also impressed by what was covered @12:10. To someone doing this for the first time: My biggest brain-fart for this type of build was having the aha moment of high vs low gearing. I understood the concepts, but I didn't understand the lingo or intended English. When I looked online for a locker/ring & pinion combo, I was fixated on higher/lower referring to strictly numbers. Struggling to find the correct combo, and getting nutty over making sure spline counts were correct as well, I literally read out loud product descriptions one night in complete frustration, thinking that I couldn't find a compatible set. That's when I realized while I was saying (blahblah) "3.73 & lower GEAR ratio" that it wasn't referring to the damn numbers. I felt like a dunce. A 4.88 is lower than a 3.21 folks. Yeah obviously for gear ratios, but doing it as my first time, I just had a complete distraction by numbers. I'm embarrassed to say I spent HOURS searching forums and still couldn't figure it out, until I had my own Jimmy Slowtron brain-blast.
All you really NEED for 37s on a JK/JL Rubicon is the right wheels and tubed fenders and/or a 1" poly bodylift. It helps if they're narrower than the typical 12.5" width. Adjust the steering stops if necessary. 35s can similarly fit a TJ Rubicon with stock springs. JP Mag did an article on it many years ago. A TJ would want for adjustable rear control arms too. Stretch the wheelbase a hair. High clearance. Low COG. Especially if you also use high-clearance skids.
Hey! While it’s true you can fit 37s on a Jeep without doing much - the point of this video is what you need to do it sustainably without breaking things over the long run (or lowering your chance of premature wear / breakage). Thanks for the comment and info on TJ! 👊🏼
There’s a simple formula that allows you to calculate what gear ratio to upgrade to to keep stock like performance. New tire size/ old tire size x current stock ratio = new gear ratio required.
Helpful formula! However, there’s also increased weight, tire width, etc when you go up in size. I’d go higher than that formula dictates for optimal performance.
Thank you for a very informative video, this is the best I have seen about this subject! And the best of all I know exactly which mods I need now according to my category of driving ;)
I'm new to the jeep game, I've been a important car guy for years, like my 350z fully built single turbo making 600whp and a frs built more for autocrossing. So because this is a whole new thing for me, I'll be honest, I'm starting at what you guys call a Mall crawler which is equivalent to carguys ricer lol which is a want to be racer. But when I learn the nature of this Beast, I want to be a weekend warrior. So far I got a 4inch rough country lift, on 38s, c gussets, Hawk brake pads for both front and back, 5.13 gears, heavy duty ball joints, DV8 stubby bumper, DV8 armor style fenders. But I haven't slap anything on yet, I'm waiting to get my PTO approved so I can have time to build it since this is my only car now lol
@@jameshannah5743 sorry for the late reply man, just now reading your reply. Since it’s a sport your front axle will be the limiting factor / weak point. With all that you are wanting to do I would definitely recommend doing a front axle swap to something like a ProRock 44 from Dynatrac. It will save you from having to redo things down the road. If you can, it’s best to do the axle up front if you’re wanting to wheel with 37s or larger tires. All the best with the build!
I dont think there's a better way to explain any of this! Excellent job sir! Im running 37 inch trail grapplers on dv8 beadlocks on a teraflex 2.5 inch lift. I've ran that set up for about 30k miles with some good wheeling. I do get rub on the frame rails at full tuck and full lock but not enough to worry about damaging anything. The one thing I'd recommend to people is to run 4:88 gears with an auto trans and 5:13 with a manual, if you wheel anything fairly difficult. Im running 5:13's with the 6-spd manual. Anyways. Great breakdown video!
@@4XTRAIL if you ever find yourself in Michigan id highly recommend going up to drummond island! Great moderate to semi difficult trails and some pretty amazing scenery!
I have a Rubi because I am a landscape and nature photographer. My Jeep gets me into the remote backcountry without fear. Your fourth category of Jeep owner should be people who view the Jeep as a tool to accomplish something else.
Appreciate you sharing all of the information. Really helpful as I have a Rubicon 392 arriving next week and have been debating between 35" and 37" for six months! May just toss on 35" initially until I can corral all of the parts to go to 37" down the road. Thank you again for the info, much appreciated!!!
Bro - 392 cmon!!! So legit. Yeah, with that engine they may have beefed up some of the components that you need already, I have no experience with the 392s (yet!). I would guess it’s safe to still plan on everything I lay out in this vid. Congrats!
Well done, boxes checked and agreed with, also depending on where you live mud flaps, easily removable preferably to pop off once you hit the trail. Here In Utah they are required most places.
running 33s, on my TJ, and im happy with that.(if i had money to burn, i would mod and upgrade more). I still gave ya a LIKE but my bank account is limited! hahah....sweet vid though!!
Know what you mean, I’m on 33” but tires are on the last 10k if that. So 35” or 37”. And top it off I’m auto technician so i could regear my JKU but the tools alone are like $600 not including the parts.
That’s a great point! I finally upgraded mine. I ran the stock one for about 10mo with the 37 mounted on there and it kinda worked but the rear gate is much more solid with the upgrade 👌🏼
FYI not all rubicon models have 4:10 gear ratio. Both my 14 and my wife’s 17 have 3:73 gear ratio stock. If the tow package was ordered from the factory with an automatic transmission then you would get the 4:10 gear ratio. The other way it would come factory in the Rubicon is if it were a manual transmission. I went with 5:13s in my 14 JKUR. The end goal is not to be a daily driver when my daughter graduates and goes to college. Good information and solid advice. Maybe next video is upgrading to anti rock system and ditching the electronic sway bar disconnect junk the stock Rubicon comes with.
UPDATE! I went up from a stock 2019 RUBICON JL with the Mopar suspension lift (w/ FOX shocks) and 35x12.5x17 tires, and I can tell you that not only can you fit 37's on this rig, you can do it with the stock rims, and have plenty of clearance (with the Mopar lift). Check other Jeepers before buying unnecessary stuff.
On my JL Rubicon you just need to put them on lol. Seriously though... all I have is a 2.5" spacer lift with shock relocation brackets. Running 37's no problem. I have aftermarket wheels which probably changes the backspacing as well.
Yep! 2.5" lift and a wider offset wheel should technically "fit" 37s on a JK or JL. Also the Rubicon's 4:10 gearing, D44 front axle and the JLs 8 speed transmission are much better suited to larger tires. This video is tailored more towards folks concerned with long-term dependability and drivability when running 37s on and off road.
Thanks for this video! There are people in my Jeep club running 37s on 3.21 Sports. I plan on eventually running 37s on my 75th Anniversary with D30 and 3.73s, regear eventually, but it was nice to see that with a weekend warrior build you CAN run on a D30.
Awesome explanation thank you. I’m actually considering buying a lifted 2021 rubi with 37” tires. You gave me some great information to take with me on Friday to check it out
@@4XTRAIL Thanks for asking, Love the jeep, test drove it with the 37's on the freeway and side roads. i was pleasantly surprised at how smooth the ride was. It has a tera flex 3 1/2" lift. I may buy it on Monday. I wanted the weekend to think it over. It has 4:10 gears in it. Whats your opinion on this size gear with 37" tires? be honest Thanks John
With the JLs you have the 8 speed auto which really helps w/gearing. 4:10 is also the best stock ratio for larger tires. I would not be afraid to buy it knowing you can always re-gear later if you feel it needs it. Procal would still be a good idea. 3.5 Teraflex lift is nice.
you forgot a hydro assist for the brakes. dump the vacuum booster. install a hydro booster. easy pluming. might need a better ps pump. and works with a ram assist for the steering. i have a 1984 cj-7 with 35's and 4.10 4.5 spring lift. factory axles. can easily put tires up in the body the other two tires are still touching ground. and do 65 on the freeway. no overdrive in the trans.
Wizzo Musik If you can do lockers at the same time as a regear it will save you labor costs in the long run. I don’t have personal experience with snapping an axle shaft but they are definitely a weak point - especially the 27 spline ones in the Dana 30. I’m still running my stock rear shafts in the 44.
Wizzo Musik It should be 27 spline for D30 and 30 spline for D44. To my knowledge all later model JKs 2012- have D44s in the rear but only the Rubi comes with D44 in the front. The sports and Sahara’s are D30 in the front. If you go to a reputable shop they should know exactly what you need.
Nitto rubs 37s on stock suspension with style flares. Also there are plenty of wheels in a 17" diameter that have more negative offset than (-6) I'm on some procomp 98s 17X9 -19 👌🏻
Yes, pretty sure any 37 will rub on stock suspension JKs. Good word on the wheels - I’ve definitely found some good options since making this vid! Check out RockTrix. Thanks for the comment! 🤙🏼
Might want to reconsider some of your thoughts. 37’s require driveshafts at a 3.5 lift!! Hydro assist isn’t necessary but highly recommended!! Don’t skimp on steering upgrades. Axles will break even with truss and C-gussets. Spacers are trash! Buy a properly back spaced wheel (3:75 is ideal) Re-gearing is almost guaranteed with 37’s. 07-10 5:13 is preferred 12+ 4:88 is preferred Brakes can be done with a front big brake kit
Hey bro, appreciate your comment! You may have missed some of the video because I address most of the things you mention and this video actually agrees with your points! See below... I’m running front and rear Adam’s driveshafts. Hydro can be bad on pavement driven wranglers, big bore pump is a good in-between option. So far my axles are doing great! Not my long-term plan but for now they are holding up fine even after significant offroading. Spacers are trash! Adapters are not. There’s a difference. My wheels are 4.75 backspace and still needed a slight bump in outward space to clear (even with full adjustable control arms, 3.5” lift, setup, etc) Re-gearing is strongly recommended for running 37s (even if you have the 4:10 gear ratio) however, which gear set is a matter of personal opinion, driving style and what you want out of the vehicle (as I lay out in the video) not a one-size-fits-all. Front brakes are definitely a good idea!
I agree, adapters aren’t ideal but these Teraflex adapters have held up great. You’ve got me studying wheel offsets and backspacing measurements again though! I’ve got a lot of miles on my rig and will gladly stand behind what I’ve said with real-world experience. Thanks for sharing your opinion!
New subscriber. Excellent video breaking down everything needed to run 37’s on your Jeep. I was born and raised in San Diego and used to go out off roading in the East County mountains, the desert, Arizona, Nevada, and other various location in Southern California. When I was born, my Dad, Uncle and other family members all had full size 1/2 ton or 3/4 ton 70’s, and 80’s Chevy 4x4 trucks and we would go out everywhere in those trucks. Then as I got into high school, I bought a 1980 Datsun 4x4 in either 1990 or 1991? The truck was beat up and I bought it off of one of my youth leaders at church for only $500.00. It only had 31’s on it and maybe a 3” body lift? The truck served me well. I learned how to off road in it and babied it even though it was in rough shape when I bought it. In 1997, I bought a brand new 1997 Toyota Tacoma 4x4 extra cab. It was just a basic 4x4 that had a 2.7 liter I4 engine and 5 speed manual transmission. I went everywhere in that truck and set it up for off roading. One of my biggest regrets was getting rid of that truck though. After I got married, my wife, kids and I moved to Colorado, where she is from. In 2007, I bought another Tacoma. This time around, I got one that was a little bit nicer. It was a 2007 Toyota Tacoma extra cab TRD Off Road. It had a 4.0 V6, 6 speed manual transmission and a rear locking differential. I really loved that truck too and it off roaded even better than my original Tacoma, because it had a locking rear differential, a leveling kit and bigger tires. Going off of memory, I think I was running 33’s on it? The only reason why I got rid of it was because our kids had all outgrown the extra cab back seats. Since trading it in I have owned full size 1/2 ton 4x4 Z71 Chevy trucks but I am now getting ready to buy another vehicle for off road purposes only or predominantly at best, since I will be keeping my full size truck as well. I have my choices narrowed down to either a brand new 2021 Toyota Tacoma TRD Off Road Pro, or a 2021 Jeep Rubicon 4 door. My heart wants another Tacoma but for what I am wanting to do, I know that a Jeep Rubicon will serve me better. Not only does it have a rear locker like the Tacoma TRD Off Road and TRD Off Road Pro does, but it has a front locker as well. And a sway bar disconnect, and is easier to lift and put bigger tires on it. I’m leaning towards the Rubicon and if I do end up choosing to go that route, it will be neat to see how well they off road compared to the Tacoma’s. I know that they will do much better but am not sure how much better?
Hey JR, awesome story! I had a 3rd gen Tacoma TRD Off-road before the Jeep. I didn’t wheel it very much but I can honestly say that for me, the Jeep is much more fun to drive. My wife drives a 4Runner so we are still a partial Toyota fam 😉. In my opinion you can’t go wrong either way but I think you’ll enjoy the Jeep more. Would love to hear what you decide!
SPACE 3.5 inch lift Wheel spacers STRENGTH Heavy duty ball joints C gussets / gusset kit Axle truss Axle shafts & drive shafts Drag link & tie rod DRIVE-ABILITY AEV pro-cal programmer Re-gear Adjustable control arms Big brake kit I think I got everything lol.
Hey Geno, not heard of air suspension on Jeeps but I’m sure it’s a thing haha. 6” is about double what you need for 37s. I recommend 3.5” lift after running that height for a couple of years with 37s.
@@4XTRAIL it isn't needed but wanted for frame clearance when crawling. Plus it will raise when i start and drop when i shut it off so its easier to get in and out. And it looks cool.
Very informative video! Thank you for listing everything out so neatly! Quick question: How much did it run you to upgrade to the 1.25" adapters, heavy duty ball joints, re-gear, gusset kit, control arms, and break kit? Just looking for a very rough estimate... I was thinking $2-3K? I'm asking because I bought my Jeep with a 2.5" lift and 37" tires, but of course they did not add the other upgrades you mentioned in the video. I really appreciate your help!
Thanks bro! For the things you mentioned plus an axle truss (which you will also want) I’d plan around $6k. This cost would be if you got good equipment (name brand, like teraflex, nitro, etc) and installed yourself (except for regear and truss/gusset welding). If you had everything installed at a shop it’d be closer to $8k for all of those items. If you’re doing all of that I’m guessing you’re in the weekend warrior category which should also include heavy duty front track bar, tie rod and drag link (additional $1k). I know this seems like a lot (and it is!) but depending on your driving style, how much you plan to offroad, and your stock gearing you may not need all of it. Check the video again for clarity on this stuff and if you still have questions feel free to reach out again. Take care bro!
I’m in group 2 with a dealer built JL Sport. I work too much to justify the Rubicon price. I’m leaving my Jeep in the parking lot at work 12 hours a day. I run 37’s the Mopar off road package with a 5” lift is surprisingly capable.
This made me laugh at myself, 2dr 18 JK went with RCV's front shafts, rear nitro shafts, ball joints, adams driveshafts, all new Terraflex control arms, Dynatrac big brake kit front & back, bigger track bars, tie rod, draglink, 3in spring lift, 1 1/4 body lift & 5.13 gears because I live in the mountains, all this for 37's, only thing stock under it is the axle housings. (JEEP ) just empty every pocket, how true it is :)
Glad I found your channel and much like the other comments I am glad you are not yelling. LOL I have a 2016 JKU running MetalCloak 3.5 springs, Fox Adventure shocks, MetalCloak front lower control arms, Track Bar, Drag Link and Tie Rod, upgraded my ball joints to TeraFlex. I am going to be going from 35's to 37's soon. I do very light off-roading since it's my daily. Stock axle set up at the moment. I am wondering how long before I should re-gear, truss and gussett after getting the tires. Also considering the Nitto Grappler, but after hearing about the weight of the tire I am reconsidering.
Hey Jake, welcome to the channel! Sounds like you’ve done a lot of the upgrades proactively which is great 💪🏼 is your a rubicon? If so you really don’t need to truss the D44 imo for light off roading w/37s and the 4:10 gearing is probably manageable for the short term. If non-Rubi you’ll probably want to truss gusset and regear at the same time as installing 37s.
@@4XTRAIL It's a 2016 Sahara Unlimited. I was going to upgrade my tires this week, but won't be able to regear truss and gusset for about a month afterwards. The cost of the tires is emptying my Jeep budget to almost nothing.
@@A1AJake I don’t think you’ll like driving on 37s w/o regearing. There are different gear ratios from the factory but I’d guess yours are 3:21s which would be very sluggish w/37s. Using the AEV procal will help a little but if it were me I would plan on re-gearing at the same time as going to 37s 🤙🏼
Great Video, appreciate you got into the deeper portions of reality in this video. Super helpful for those of us mechanically knowledgeable but not well versed in JK Wranglers specifically. Thank you
I am so glad I ran across your channel while looking for advice on what it takes to run 37s! I am also putting the Milestar Patagonia MT on my JKU, and wondered what tire pressure you found to be best? Of course I'll do the chalk test, but was hoping to be close to start. Thanks for all the information, much appreciated!!!
Hey Scott! So glad to hear the video was helpful for you. I found out that Milestar recommends 36-38psi for their Patagonia MT in a 37”. This is higher than most 37s due to the Milestars being a domed design vs flat / squared. Because they are domed you can’t really do the traditional chalk test. I ran mine around 33psi to get them to have a softer on road ride but they wore uneven and got really noisy by about 20k miles. Here’s some more of my thoughts on these tires: th-cam.com/video/vHxZ777REIk/w-d-xo.html take care!
@@4XTRAIL I watched the video for the 25k review which clarified the tire pressure, but I was curious what you run when offroad, especially rock crawling?
Extremely thorough video. I've been doing my own research and have been building towards 37's for a while now- everything I've found in my research was covered here. Also, thanks for having a very calm demeanor- a huge change of pace for YT videos.
Appreciate the comment! 👊🏼
@@4XTRAIL I'm curious as to how much it cost to do all that work for 37" tires. Very exciting and awesome knowledge. Thanks
@@jcbert6969 Thank you for the comment! I don’t have exact numbers (I need to do a separate video where I break down cost!) but from a stock Jeep to the “weekend warrior on 37s” level plan on $10k as a middle of the road figure - definitely more if you have everything done at a shop. A lot of it depends on the brand of parts you use as well - as with most things, with Jeep parts you get what you pay for! I’ve learned that lesson the hard way! Remember too that you can stagger some of these mods vs doing them all at once. Hope that helps!
@@4XTRAIL once again, spot on. For me, I went with a ProRock44 (and everything included with that), control arms, new shocks and coils, a big brake kit, longer brake lines, driveshafts and saving for the hydro assist. Looking forward to a new video on cost estimates for sure!
@@Team_Nacho_Moto Thanks - that sounds like a great build. I think a prorock44 is the perfect long term solution for 37s. 🤙🏼
i appreciate the low tone and calm personalty. tired of getting yelled at every video
Right on 👊🏼
No shit huh nice and relaxed
Yeah why are we being screamed at in all the Jeep videos 😂
@@sdericmonty BECAUSE BIG WHEELS NEEDS BIG VOICES!!!!!
Seriously bro
Thanks
Fitting 37” tires on my jeep is my biggest accomplishment in life.
😂😂😂
yes
So I guess I would be in your weekend warrior category. My question is, if the 35's I'm running now weigh the same if not more than the 37in milestar's I plan on upgrading to, would I still have more strain. I have a 6speed with 3.73s on 3.5in. lift. I tow alot quite often, just my trailer and fourwheelers is a haul of just over 3,000lbs and the jeep does fine besides having to stay in 5th while hauling that load on the highway. Sorry for the long comment but I hope you can answer this for me.
@@lanceparrish8352 Hey Lance, I’d say if the weight is the same you won’t experience much more load on your axle and steering components. Where you’ll notice it will be with gearing because of the larger diameter. The fact that yours is a manual may help offset this a little but I would guess 37s + towing will be tough with 3:73s. The fact that the Patagonia’s are closer to 36” in actual height will help a little but you’re kind of splitting hairs at that point. I’d guess you could get away with 3:73s and a lighter 37 with manual box for daily driving but the towing aspect tells me you’ll really want something like 4:88s before too long. Hope that helps!
@@4XTRAIL thank you
That’s the most well articulated content I’ve seen on gearing up for 37”s. I appreciate the good work
Appreciate the comment! Thanks 👊🏼
Seriously cant believe you're sitting at 1.6k subs, This video is super helpful for new jeepers and the top comment is very true. You're straight to the point and know what you're talking about. We also have the same setup lol.
That’s awesome bro - appreciate the comment! Sharing the video always helps as well. 👊🏼
This is all sooo true. I put 37s on my JKU earlier this year and with that, has come so many more mods. All things I wish I would have known BEFORE I went there. Haha but it’s definitely a learning experience. I’ll be sharing this with everyone who asks me about my set up before they decide to go with 37s also. 😅👍🏼
Right on, Janae!
35inch and 2 1/2 inch lift for me son.
Dude that was really helpful for me a new to Jeep new owner. Thanks man
Glad to hear it! 👊🏼
Yea me too thanks bro . I was thinking of going 35 but I really like the 37 . Just wasn’t sure what I needed beside just a lift kit . Great info
@@thinkclear3834 👊🏼💯
Great Video!! Weekend Warrior here minus the daily driver part. Glad to see you making the Dana30 axle work for you. Too many people hate on the Dana30 but it can handle some pretty good wheeling for the average guy. I’ll be dining the chromoly shafts soon and truss Kit.
Dirt Hammers Off-Road Thanks, agreed on the D30! 👊🏼
i just worry about the ring a pinion on my d30 especially running 5.13
If running a d30 with upgraded axle shafts and trussed, I would worry about ring a pinion. I’ve always had the mindset the weakest link should be easier to fix. Maybe run some cheap u joints. 🤔 I’d rather change a u joint or even a axle shaft, trail side then a ring and pinion.
@@300ddsrt3 definitely run cheap u joints or shafts on a Dana 30
One could convert to manual hubs and use "hub fuses".
This video is phenomenal. I’m a commuter at the moment because of school and have 33s currently. Upgrading to 35s is hard when 37s aren’t necessarily unobtainable. Thank you for the info
Glad it was helpful! 👊🏼
33s and lockers get basically everything done
Someone that finally mentions brakes on 37s. I went with Dynatrac BBK and it is a PHENOMINAL kit. For reference, the Jeep stops better on my 130lb corners now than when it did on stock BGGoodrich KM2s. No BS, it stops as well as my previous C6 Z06 did - relatively speaking here.
What is nice about Dynatrac's kit is that it's balanced to reduce nose dive. 14.25" rotors in rear and 13.5 up front. They're also American made unlike Teraflex's set. Do not go slotted or drilled rotors. Traps mud and debris too easily.
Appreciate the comment! Good insight for folks shopping BBKs. 👍🏼
Excellent video thanks for sharing! You just talked me out of 37's way too much work to run 37's I'll go with 35's.
35s are a great tire for the JK. Glad it was helpful!
Great video, super helpful and clearly communicated. You talked me out of going down the road towards 37s haha. I love the look and off-road capabilities of the 37, but not worth the extra $10k+ for those few inches to me. Appreciate it.
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for the comment. 35s are a great all around tire for the wrangler for sure! Take care.
At last I can understand the
re-gearing concept! Thanks for the clear explanation!
Roberto Natal Right on! 👊🏼
3.5" backspace wheels (Method 105) run 37's like it's nothing. I had that on my JK with 17x9 wheels and 37x12.50/17. On my Gladiator, 4.5" backspace on Fuel wheels should suffice. I prefer to widen them out with wheel backspace over spacers, but that caused me to have to buy another set of wheels on my JK when moving from 35 to 37.
Another point to remember is tire weight. The Patagonia MT’s 37 and 38 inch tires are actually lighter than most other 35 inch tire brands and half the weight of most other 37 or 38’s so they don’t put as much stress on the components so it’s good practice to compare weight when selecting which tire you’ll be running. We have the exact same Jeep. I have a black 2016 jku with 38 inch Patagonias. I bought a buddy of mines front and rear rubicon axle set out of his rubicon and trussed both front and rear with 4.88’s and OX cable lockers front and rear with a six speed manual with the 4 to 1 transfer case. You can walk faster than it will crawl. Our jeeps actually look identical.
That’s a great point that can’t be emphasized enough. Weight matters! Sounds like you’ve got a great build going!
Thank you ! I am gonna show my wife this ! She has a stock 16 willys 2 door! And desperately want the biggest lift and tire available ! If I can only get her to pay attention to hear all the work involved !
Glad it was helpful! 👊🏼
You deserve a bigger channel man. I’m subbed now. I love the hardtop hoist video and I wanna replicate that. Great content and awesome Jeep man!
Jordan Baker Thanks for the kind words and sub! 👊🏼 Glad you’re enjoying the channel.
Finally, Advices that never break the bank, Thank you for sharing some budget and we'll thought options for average Joe's like me who wants to wheel but won't spend a ton, Share more advices , it would be of good help.
Appreciate the comment! Glad it was helpful 👊🏼
I ran 37” bfg ko2s on my 16 JKU for 4 years and off roaded it quite often. Only front end upgrade was axle c gussets welded in and 4.56 gears front and rear. No lockers. Thing ran perfectly fine never broke a single thing in the front end other than some end link bushings and other bushings normal wear and tear.
My Jeep I installed a terra flex 3” coil lift, fox 2.0 shocks, front and rear adjustable track bars and STOCK fenders. Bump stops 2” only in the rear. Stock Willy’s wheeler wheels with 1.25” spacers.
👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼
Great video man, You should do a video of how to get quality parts for cheap(without sacrificing quality) for all the upgrades here and an estimation of cost for everything separately and together. keep pumping out the great videos, you got a new subscriber here.
dirge4november84 Thanks for the kind words and that’s a great idea for a future video! I may try that.
Thank you for the video! I made a list of what I need and I will order them piece by piece until I can afford the 37’s :(
Awesome! 👊🏼
Great advice, I think I’ll stick with my plan to go 2.5” and 35s on my new Rubicon based on your recommendations. Very well thought out advice based on my experience with a local 4x4 and Jeep shop
Appreciate the comment! And congrats on the new Jeep 💯👊🏼
Rubicons have Dana 45s front and rear lol you can run 37s easy lol
@@outsidewithdj Dana 45s?? Never heard of those.
@@outsidewithdj Dana 44. The outer shaft in the front axle is the same as the Dana 30 sp it's not as strong as you would think.
3.21 were standard on JK/JKU sport models, 3.73 came with Sports with Tow Package and of course Rubicon's are typically 4.10's. Some Hard Rock Editions came with 3.73 since 4.10's were a factory Option for 2015 models.
Re-gearing is highly recommended when going up in tire size and wheeling. 4.88 or 5.18 Yukon.
Yep. I think you mean 5:13s? Been happy w/4:88s and 37s. Went with 5:38s for my JT on 40s but it’s still in the shop so tbd on that combo…
The best video that I have ever seen .the way you explain everything 👏 thanks
Glad it was helpful! 👊🏼
Can you do a video on list for 35s would help a lot of us out to understand what we really need.
Hey, thanks for the comment. I may add that to my future video list!
Just an FYI,, on JK's the max tow package is how you get 3.73's on non-Willys edition Jeeps. Either way, they need to go. Also, I only run 35's and went with 4.88's. I came from the smallest possible stock tires and it returned it back to that feel.
I appreciated your approach as others have said. My only suggestion would be some B roll of your axles and drive shafts.
Great insights! Thanks for sharing.
I have 37 12.5 15 for over 2 years never needed any change I think change is needed as a personal opinion
There are certainly exceptions depending on your specific scenario! This video takes into account the longevity and drive-ability of the Jeep as a whole not just what you need to fit the tires onto the vehicle. Believe it or not, this is a modest list compared to what some folks will say you “need”. But if your setup is working well for you so far that’s great! All the best!
Just got a lifted Jeep with 37s, so this helps me out a lot
Welcome to the Jeep fam!
I run 3.5" suspension, 1.25" body oem rubicon wheels , 1.75 spidertrax spacers. 4.10 gears with tremec 5 speed trans . Big brake kit, psc titan xd box, minor trimming, drag link flip. Stock shafts and drive shafts with a terra high angle cv. Stock steering tie rod and rod end are all strong, moog oem replacements are greasable. Stock ball joints went a long time, but terras are coming soon. Dana 30 housings are the same tubes as a Rubicon d44.
Sounds like a good build Charles! Thanks for watching and sharing.
I know this is an old video. What you need to run 37s depends a lot on your model. JKs, even Rubicons, require a bit more to get there than JLs. A JLR can be put on a 2" puck spacer lift kit and then you're pretty much set, assuming you have a wheel with the proper offset. You'd probably want to regear but you could run it. Anything other than a Rubicon would require high clearance fender flares in addition to the lift, plus reinforced axle shafts in the front (rear, too, if you don't have the rear Dana 44) and preferably some HD ball joints plus some better breaks. Plus a tailgate reinforcement kit and spare tire relocation bracket.
Weekend warrior at the moment. But one day I will be on trails more often.
Good content and advice. I have 35's with 3" lift. Definitely will be going 37's in the future. I just started my jeep channel and will be doing a video on what mods I have in a future video.
Right on! 👊🏼
Thank you for your information I’ll consider it cause I’m in Jamaica 🇯🇲
Thanks for the comment bro! 🤙🏼
@@4XTRAIL big I’m also looking for the rales on top where do I get them ?
I believe Amazon sells some inexpensive cross bars that connect to the hardtop gutter but they would just be for lighter cargo. For a rooftop tent I would recommend the rhino rack platform system! Hope that helps.
Im just converting my Recon to 37¨s , thanks for a thorough explanation video, thumbs up !!!
Appreciate the comment! All the best with your build!
PERFECT! I finally found easy to understand information I’ve been looking for. 👍
Glad to hear it! 👊🏼
Ran 37's on my 2010 4dr Rubicon.
2.5" lift
Poison Spyder high clearance flares
Poison Spyder brawler rockers
Small pinch weld trim.
Regeared to 5.13 gears.
AEV ProCal got it within 1mph of GPS.
37x12.5'-17 TRXUS MT.
handled very well on highway and the off road at Uwharrie. I didn't do the most extreme trails.
Drive it on highway from NC to MA very comfortably too.
Added note: River Raider Off Road engine to gas tank skid plate kit saves me from hang ups that the stock aid plate would cause.
Also improve aerodynamics on the road. Got the same MPG highway after the mods as it did bone stock despite weighing a good 700 pounds more.
Love it!
I 100% "approve this message." I don't think an ounce of this was misinformation. If I missed it my bad, I did try to find at least one thing that could have been overlooked, but it would be reasonable to also suggest flat fenders for anyone going offroad. I mean damn, you even snuck the AEV ProCal suggestion in there. All bases covered. How dare you not recommend extended brake lines, lol?!
I was also impressed by what was covered @12:10.
To someone doing this for the first time: My biggest brain-fart for this type of build was having the aha moment of high vs low gearing. I understood the concepts, but I didn't understand the lingo or intended English. When I looked online for a locker/ring & pinion combo, I was fixated on higher/lower referring to strictly numbers. Struggling to find the correct combo, and getting nutty over making sure spline counts were correct as well, I literally read out loud product descriptions one night in complete frustration, thinking that I couldn't find a compatible set. That's when I realized while I was saying (blahblah) "3.73 & lower GEAR ratio" that it wasn't referring to the damn numbers. I felt like a dunce. A 4.88 is lower than a 3.21 folks. Yeah obviously for gear ratios, but doing it as my first time, I just had a complete distraction by numbers. I'm embarrassed to say I spent HOURS searching forums and still couldn't figure it out, until I had my own Jimmy Slowtron brain-blast.
Nick Haha I think we’ve all been there at one point or another! Glad this was helpful 👊🏼
Thank you sir. I'm in the process of building my jeep and researching. This helps immensely
Glad to hear! All the best with the build 👊🏼
All you really NEED for 37s on a JK/JL Rubicon is the right wheels and tubed fenders and/or a 1" poly bodylift. It helps if they're narrower than the typical 12.5" width.
Adjust the steering stops if necessary.
35s can similarly fit a TJ Rubicon with stock springs. JP Mag did an article on it many years ago. A TJ would want for adjustable rear control arms too. Stretch the wheelbase a hair.
High clearance. Low COG. Especially if you also use high-clearance skids.
Hey! While it’s true you can fit 37s on a Jeep without doing much - the point of this video is what you need to do it sustainably without breaking things over the long run (or lowering your chance of premature wear / breakage). Thanks for the comment and info on TJ! 👊🏼
Tj 4 banger 37 13.5 17 super swamper 1 .25 spacer 4.5 lift, 513 's,adj control arms thats it runs great
EXCELLENT video - very well thought out & explained & love the thinking in threes...
Appreciate it! 💪🏼
There’s a simple formula that allows you to calculate what gear ratio to upgrade to to keep stock like performance. New tire size/ old tire size x current stock ratio = new gear ratio required.
Helpful formula! However, there’s also increased weight, tire width, etc when you go up in size. I’d go higher than that formula dictates for optimal performance.
Thank you for a very informative video, this is the best I have seen about this subject! And the best of all I know exactly which mods I need now according to my category of driving ;)
Glad to hear it! Thanks for the comment 👊🏼
I'm new to the jeep game, I've been a important car guy for years, like my 350z fully built single turbo making 600whp and a frs built more for autocrossing. So because this is a whole new thing for me, I'll be honest, I'm starting at what you guys call a Mall crawler which is equivalent to carguys ricer lol which is a want to be racer. But when I learn the nature of this Beast, I want to be a weekend warrior. So far I got a 4inch rough country lift, on 38s, c gussets, Hawk brake pads for both front and back, 5.13 gears, heavy duty ball joints, DV8 stubby bumper, DV8 armor style fenders. But I haven't slap anything on yet, I'm waiting to get my PTO approved so I can have time to build it since this is my only car now lol
Welcome to the Jeep fam! Sounds like you’re off to a great start. Is yours a rubicon?
@@4XTRAIL unfortunately I'm a sport lol
@@jameshannah5743 sorry for the late reply man, just now reading your reply. Since it’s a sport your front axle will be the limiting factor / weak point. With all that you are wanting to do I would definitely recommend doing a front axle swap to something like a ProRock 44 from Dynatrac. It will save you from having to redo things down the road. If you can, it’s best to do the axle up front if you’re wanting to wheel with 37s or larger tires. All the best with the build!
@@4XTRAIL it's ok my man, I'm sure you are a busy man. And thank you, I will definitely upgrade my axles
I dont think there's a better way to explain any of this! Excellent job sir! Im running 37 inch trail grapplers on dv8 beadlocks on a teraflex 2.5 inch lift. I've ran that set up for about 30k miles with some good wheeling. I do get rub on the frame rails at full tuck and full lock but not enough to worry about damaging anything. The one thing I'd recommend to people is to run 4:88 gears with an auto trans and 5:13 with a manual, if you wheel anything fairly difficult. Im running 5:13's with the 6-spd manual. Anyways. Great breakdown video!
Great input on the manual vs auto. Thanks for the comment! 👊🏼💯
@@4XTRAIL if you ever find yourself in Michigan id highly recommend going up to drummond island! Great moderate to semi difficult trails and some pretty amazing scenery!
@@puckerfactoroffroad1326 I’d love to make it up there someday! Will keep in mind.
With the information in this video I now know what I need to run 37s.
Glad it was helpful!
I have a Rubi because I am a landscape and nature photographer. My Jeep gets me into the remote backcountry without fear. Your fourth category of Jeep owner should be people who view the Jeep as a tool to accomplish something else.
Love that! Mine is definitely a tool as well. Thanks for sharing 🤙🏼
Best video I’ve seen on jeeps explained yourself very well great job👍
Appreciate it! Thanks for the comment 👊🏼
Great video. Thank you for taking the time to share!
Glad to hear! 🤙🏼
Appreciate you sharing all of the information. Really helpful as I have a Rubicon 392 arriving next week and have been debating between 35" and 37" for six months! May just toss on 35" initially until I can corral all of the parts to go to 37" down the road. Thank you again for the info, much appreciated!!!
Bro - 392 cmon!!! So legit. Yeah, with that engine they may have beefed up some of the components that you need already, I have no experience with the 392s (yet!). I would guess it’s safe to still plan on everything I lay out in this vid. Congrats!
How you liking the 392 bro ?
@@pikey_life8462 Love it! Still debating 37” or 38” Now!
EExcellent discussion. Took notes and prepared for mods,with better knowledge.tnxs bro.
Right on 👊🏼 glad to hear!
Plenty of Wheels out there with a -25 plus offset, KMC has a -38 with a 17-in wheel.
Well done, boxes checked and agreed with, also depending on where you live mud flaps, easily removable preferably to pop off once you hit the trail. Here In Utah they are required most places.
That’s good to know, wasn’t aware of that! Thanks for the comment.
running 33s, on my TJ, and im happy with that.(if i had money to burn, i would mod and upgrade more). I still gave ya a LIKE but my bank account is limited! hahah....sweet vid though!!
Nothing wrong with that! 💯
Know what you mean, I’m on 33” but tires are on the last 10k if that. So 35” or 37”. And top it off I’m auto technician so i could regear my JKU but the tools alone are like $600 not including the parts.
Sector shaft brace is a must ! Will stuffing your steering and protect your steering box
Great suggestion! I haven’t touched my steering box, I know it’s just a matter of time but so far it’s performing like a champ.
I like how you broke out your big boy chair at the start. 😂
A good comprehensive video. Just want to add you’ll need to upgrade your spare tire carrier as well.
That’s a great point! I finally upgraded mine. I ran the stock one for about 10mo with the 37 mounted on there and it kinda worked but the rear gate is much more solid with the upgrade 👌🏼
Thanks for talking me out of 37s lol. I'll just go to 35s on my JLU Rubicon and will just be more intentional when off road than the 37 guys.
Great perspective! You can do a whole lot of trails with 35s and good driving 👍🏼
Excellent video. Informative and interesting; but you can also buy a JT Mojave or a Wrangler 392 and fit 37s effortlessly
FYI not all rubicon models have 4:10 gear ratio. Both my 14 and my wife’s 17 have 3:73 gear ratio stock. If the tow package was ordered from the factory with an automatic transmission then you would get the 4:10 gear ratio. The other way it would come factory in the Rubicon is if it were a manual transmission. I went with 5:13s in my 14 JKUR. The end goal is not to be a daily driver when my daughter graduates and goes to college. Good information and solid advice. Maybe next video is upgrading to anti rock system and ditching the electronic sway bar disconnect junk the stock Rubicon comes with.
Thanks for the clarification! Right on.
Great video. You just talked me out of getting 37's.
Glad it was helpful! 35s are a great option!
Nice video. Clean clear vid.
UPDATE! I went up from a stock 2019 RUBICON JL with the Mopar suspension lift (w/ FOX shocks) and 35x12.5x17 tires, and I can tell you that not only can you fit 37's on this rig, you can do it with the stock rims, and have plenty of clearance (with the Mopar lift). Check other Jeepers before buying unnecessary stuff.
I'm a total mall crawler and did 5.13 regear, c gussets and synergy ball joints only to run my 37s. I hope this is not too much.
On my JL Rubicon you just need to put them on lol. Seriously though... all I have is a 2.5" spacer lift with shock relocation brackets. Running 37's no problem. I have aftermarket wheels which probably changes the backspacing as well.
Yep! 2.5" lift and a wider offset wheel should technically "fit" 37s on a JK or JL. Also the Rubicon's 4:10 gearing, D44 front axle and the JLs 8 speed transmission are much better suited to larger tires. This video is tailored more towards folks concerned with long-term dependability and drivability when running 37s on and off road.
37 KM3’s with a 2.5 AEV on my 2020 JLUR
Got my paper and pen.. taking Notes..
Just lifted my TJ.. it was a PAIN aligning it. Getting ready to slap 37's on... taking good notes
Nice! That’s going to be one tough looking TJ 💯👏🏼
Thanks for this video! There are people in my Jeep club running 37s on 3.21 Sports. I plan on eventually running 37s on my 75th Anniversary with D30 and 3.73s, regear eventually, but it was nice to see that with a weekend warrior build you CAN run on a D30.
Right on 👊🏼 thanks for the comment bro!
Great video, very informative for new jeep owner/Wheeler like me. Also your cat in the background just chilling 😂😂❤❤ so cute lol.
Excellently explained
👊🏼💙
Awesome explanation thank you. I’m actually considering buying a lifted 2021 rubi with 37” tires. You gave me some great information to take with me on Friday to check it out
Awesome - glad to hear it! How’d it go?
@@4XTRAIL Thanks for asking, Love the jeep, test drove it with the 37's on the freeway and side roads. i was pleasantly surprised at how smooth the ride was. It has a tera flex 3 1/2" lift. I may buy it on Monday. I wanted the weekend to think it over. It has 4:10 gears in it. Whats your opinion on this size gear with 37" tires? be honest
Thanks John
With the JLs you have the 8 speed auto which really helps w/gearing. 4:10 is also the best stock ratio for larger tires. I would not be afraid to buy it knowing you can always re-gear later if you feel it needs it. Procal would still be a good idea. 3.5 Teraflex lift is nice.
@@4XTRAIL great thank you.
This video should have way more likes
Thanks a lot!
you forgot a hydro assist for the brakes. dump the vacuum booster. install a hydro booster. easy pluming. might need a better ps pump. and works with a ram assist for the steering.
i have a 1984 cj-7 with 35's and 4.10 4.5 spring lift. factory axles. can easily put tires up in the body the other two tires are still touching ground. and do 65 on the freeway. no overdrive in the trans.
That sounds like a fun build! Thanks for sharing, Larry!
Great kick ass video!! very thorough, thanks!
👊🏼💙
Thank youuuu. Very simple to understand. great video!
Appreciate it Faith! Thanks for watching and for the comment 🙌🏼
Great video man. Just got my
Jk and ordered the 4 inch lift long arm with 37s
Wizzo Musik love it man! That sounds dope.
@@4XTRAIL how common is it to snap or damage axle shafts and you didn’t mention lockers. Are they something that should come later or when you re gear
Wizzo Musik If you can do lockers at the same time as a regear it will save you labor costs in the long run. I don’t have personal experience with snapping an axle shaft but they are definitely a weak point - especially the 27 spline ones in the Dana 30. I’m still running my stock rear shafts in the 44.
@@4XTRAIL thank you , how do I know about my spline ?
Is that something that just needs to be pulled and counted manually ?
Or all jk 27 spline
Wizzo Musik It should be 27 spline for D30 and 30 spline for D44. To my knowledge all later model JKs 2012- have D44s in the rear but only the Rubi comes with D44 in the front. The sports and Sahara’s are D30 in the front. If you go to a reputable shop they should know exactly what you need.
Nitto rubs 37s on stock suspension with style flares. Also there are plenty of wheels in a 17" diameter that have more negative offset than (-6) I'm on some procomp 98s 17X9 -19 👌🏻
Yes, pretty sure any 37 will rub on stock suspension JKs. Good word on the wheels - I’ve definitely found some good options since making this vid! Check out RockTrix. Thanks for the comment! 🤙🏼
Definitely coming back to get ideas for when i go 40s🤙🏻(in about 6 years or so haha)
Haha right on 👊🏼😂
Might want to reconsider some of your thoughts. 37’s require driveshafts at a 3.5 lift!!
Hydro assist isn’t necessary but highly recommended!! Don’t skimp on steering upgrades.
Axles will break even with truss and C-gussets.
Spacers are trash! Buy a properly back spaced wheel (3:75 is ideal)
Re-gearing is almost guaranteed with 37’s.
07-10 5:13 is preferred
12+ 4:88 is preferred
Brakes can be done with a front big brake kit
Hey bro, appreciate your comment! You may have missed some of the video because I address most of the things you mention and this video actually agrees with your points! See below...
I’m running front and rear Adam’s driveshafts.
Hydro can be bad on pavement driven wranglers, big bore pump is a good in-between option.
So far my axles are doing great! Not my long-term plan but for now they are holding up fine even after significant offroading.
Spacers are trash! Adapters are not. There’s a difference. My wheels are 4.75 backspace and still needed a slight bump in outward space to clear (even with full adjustable control arms, 3.5” lift, setup, etc)
Re-gearing is strongly recommended for running 37s (even if you have the 4:10 gear ratio) however, which gear set is a matter of personal opinion, driving style and what you want out of the vehicle (as I lay out in the video) not a one-size-fits-all.
Front brakes are definitely a good idea!
@@4XTRAIL exactly, most of whatcha said is kinda there and a lot of it is not. Spacers and adapters are trash! Buy properly spaced wheels
I agree, adapters aren’t ideal but these Teraflex adapters have held up great. You’ve got me studying wheel offsets and backspacing measurements again though! I’ve got a lot of miles on my rig and will gladly stand behind what I’ve said with real-world experience. Thanks for sharing your opinion!
@@4XTRAIL nowhere near friends! There’s a lot more experience you need
Very informative and helpful. Thank you for sharing with us...👍
Glad to hear! Thanks for the comment
New subscriber. Excellent video breaking down everything needed to run 37’s on your Jeep.
I was born and raised in San Diego and used to go out off roading in the East County mountains, the desert, Arizona, Nevada, and other various location in Southern California.
When I was born, my Dad, Uncle and other family members all had full size 1/2 ton or 3/4 ton 70’s, and 80’s Chevy 4x4 trucks and we would go out everywhere in those trucks. Then as I got into high school, I bought a 1980 Datsun 4x4 in either 1990 or 1991? The truck was beat up and I bought it off of one of my youth leaders at church for only $500.00. It only had 31’s on it and maybe a 3” body lift? The truck served me well. I learned how to off road in it and babied it even though it was in rough shape when I bought it.
In 1997, I bought a brand new 1997 Toyota Tacoma 4x4 extra cab. It was just a basic 4x4 that had a 2.7 liter I4 engine and 5 speed manual transmission. I went everywhere in that truck and set it up for off roading. One of my biggest regrets was getting rid of that truck though.
After I got married, my wife, kids and I moved to Colorado, where she is from. In 2007, I bought another Tacoma. This time around, I got one that was a little bit nicer. It was a 2007 Toyota Tacoma extra cab TRD Off Road. It had a 4.0 V6, 6 speed manual transmission and a rear locking differential. I really loved that truck too and it off roaded even better than my original Tacoma, because it had a locking rear differential, a leveling kit and bigger tires. Going off of memory, I think I was running 33’s on it? The only reason why I got rid of it was because our kids had all outgrown the extra cab back seats. Since trading it in I have owned full size 1/2 ton 4x4 Z71 Chevy trucks but I am now getting ready to buy another vehicle for off road purposes only or predominantly at best, since I will be keeping my full size truck as well.
I have my choices narrowed down to either a brand new 2021 Toyota Tacoma TRD Off Road Pro, or a 2021 Jeep Rubicon 4 door. My heart wants another Tacoma but for what I am wanting to do, I know that a Jeep Rubicon will serve me better. Not only does it have a rear locker like the Tacoma TRD Off Road and TRD Off Road Pro does, but it has a front locker as well. And a sway bar disconnect, and is easier to lift and put bigger tires on it.
I’m leaning towards the Rubicon and if I do end up choosing to go that route, it will be neat to see how well they off road compared to the Tacoma’s. I know that they will do much better but am not sure how much better?
Hey JR, awesome story! I had a 3rd gen Tacoma TRD Off-road before the Jeep. I didn’t wheel it very much but I can honestly say that for me, the Jeep is much more fun to drive. My wife drives a 4Runner so we are still a partial Toyota fam 😉. In my opinion you can’t go wrong either way but I think you’ll enjoy the Jeep more. Would love to hear what you decide!
SPACE
3.5 inch lift
Wheel spacers
STRENGTH
Heavy duty ball joints
C gussets / gusset kit
Axle truss
Axle shafts & drive shafts
Drag link & tie rod
DRIVE-ABILITY
AEV pro-cal programmer
Re-gear
Adjustable control arms
Big brake kit
I think I got everything lol.
💪🏼👏🏼 and if you can find wheels with the right offset, don’t use wheel adapters! Cheers, brother!
I installed a 6 inch air lift. And fixed the "drift" problem too. (You really need to do that with 37s.)
Hey Geno, not heard of air suspension on Jeeps but I’m sure it’s a thing haha. 6” is about double what you need for 37s. I recommend 3.5” lift after running that height for a couple of years with 37s.
@@4XTRAIL it isn't needed but wanted for frame clearance when crawling. Plus it will raise when i start and drop when i shut it off so its easier to get in and out. And it looks cool.
@@genocanabicea5779 I want to see this!
Very informative video! Thank you for listing everything out so neatly!
Quick question: How much did it run you to upgrade to the 1.25" adapters, heavy duty ball joints, re-gear, gusset kit, control arms, and break kit? Just looking for a very rough estimate... I was thinking $2-3K? I'm asking because I bought my Jeep with a 2.5" lift and 37" tires, but of course they did not add the other upgrades you mentioned in the video. I really appreciate your help!
Thanks bro! For the things you mentioned plus an axle truss (which you will also want) I’d plan around $6k. This cost would be if you got good equipment (name brand, like teraflex, nitro, etc) and installed yourself (except for regear and truss/gusset welding). If you had everything installed at a shop it’d be closer to $8k for all of those items. If you’re doing all of that I’m guessing you’re in the weekend warrior category which should also include heavy duty front track bar, tie rod and drag link (additional $1k).
I know this seems like a lot (and it is!) but depending on your driving style, how much you plan to offroad, and your stock gearing you may not need all of it. Check the video again for clarity on this stuff and if you still have questions feel free to reach out again. Take care bro!
So informative! Thx! Cool looking Rig🤟🏽
Thank you! Appreciate it 👊🏼
Great info. Appreciate the video.
rukenheb Glad to hear 👊🏼
Bang up job on this video. Thanks.
Appreciate it! Thanks for watching.
Awesome video bro, thanks!
Glad it was helpful!
I’m in group 2 with a dealer built JL Sport. I work too much to justify the Rubicon price. I’m leaving my Jeep in the parking lot at work 12 hours a day. I run 37’s the Mopar off road package with a 5” lift is surprisingly capable.
Right on bro, sounds like a mean Jeep!
I appreciate you not being the annoying YT Jeep Bro. Sub.
Haha, well thanks! 👊🏼
This made me laugh at myself, 2dr 18 JK went with RCV's front shafts, rear nitro shafts, ball joints, adams driveshafts, all new Terraflex control arms, Dynatrac big brake kit front & back, bigger track bars, tie rod, draglink, 3in spring lift, 1 1/4 body lift & 5.13 gears because I live in the mountains, all this for 37's, only thing stock under it is the axle housings. (JEEP ) just empty every pocket, how true it is :)
LOL - sounds like a great build! 👍🏼
Glad I found your channel and much like the other comments I am glad you are not yelling. LOL I have a 2016 JKU running MetalCloak 3.5 springs, Fox Adventure shocks, MetalCloak front lower control arms, Track Bar, Drag Link and Tie Rod, upgraded my ball joints to TeraFlex. I am going to be going from 35's to 37's soon. I do very light off-roading since it's my daily. Stock axle set up at the moment. I am wondering how long before I should re-gear, truss and gussett after getting the tires. Also considering the Nitto Grappler, but after hearing about the weight of the tire I am reconsidering.
Hey Jake, welcome to the channel! Sounds like you’ve done a lot of the upgrades proactively which is great 💪🏼 is your a rubicon? If so you really don’t need to truss the D44 imo for light off roading w/37s and the 4:10 gearing is probably manageable for the short term. If non-Rubi you’ll probably want to truss gusset and regear at the same time as installing 37s.
@@4XTRAIL It's a 2016 Sahara Unlimited. I was going to upgrade my tires this week, but won't be able to regear truss and gusset for about a month afterwards. The cost of the tires is emptying my Jeep budget to almost nothing.
@@A1AJake I don’t think you’ll like driving on 37s w/o regearing. There are different gear ratios from the factory but I’d guess yours are 3:21s which would be very sluggish w/37s. Using the AEV procal will help a little but if it were me I would plan on re-gearing at the same time as going to 37s 🤙🏼
Excellent video!!!! Thank you
Great video. Thanks for the info.
eggmaster40 right on! 👊🏼
Great Video, appreciate you got into the deeper portions of reality in this video. Super helpful for those of us mechanically knowledgeable but not well versed in JK Wranglers specifically. Thank you
Glad to hear, thanks Levi!
Thanks for sharing really good information. 👍
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for the comment
Great video.. right now i have 33 on my jeep .. but im planning on getting the 35 or 37 ..
Great breakdown list
Thanks for watching!
Instead of ball joints, run ball joint eliminators. Way stronger and then they can be rebuilt without having to replace the cup.
Have not heard of them - thanks for the comment!
@@4XTRAIL American Iron Offroad has the nicest ones. I'm running them in my JK dana44 and they are a complete game changer.
I am so glad I ran across your channel while looking for advice on what it takes to run 37s! I am also putting the Milestar Patagonia MT on my JKU, and wondered what tire pressure you found to be best? Of course I'll do the chalk test, but was hoping to be close to start. Thanks for all the information, much appreciated!!!
Hey Scott! So glad to hear the video was helpful for you. I found out that Milestar recommends 36-38psi for their Patagonia MT in a 37”. This is higher than most 37s due to the Milestars being a domed design vs flat / squared. Because they are domed you can’t really do the traditional chalk test. I ran mine around 33psi to get them to have a softer on road ride but they wore uneven and got really noisy by about 20k miles. Here’s some more of my thoughts on these tires: th-cam.com/video/vHxZ777REIk/w-d-xo.html take care!
@@4XTRAIL thanks again!
@@4XTRAIL I watched the video for the 25k review which clarified the tire pressure, but I was curious what you run when offroad, especially rock crawling?
@@sagoodman988 I typically run 15psi offroad and around 14psi or a little lower for crawling. Non-beadlock wheels so I try to stay around there.
@@4XTRAIL great! Thanks again!