That is ok if you don't like to do the hard trails. I personally build for the hard trails as those are the ones I enjoy the most. Where I am it is rare to crawl anything, it comes down to rock faces that are slick and require the skinny.
@@MrJoshItIs I like to do the hard stuff too. One thing I have seen in my 35 years of wheeling is there are finesse folks who are really skilled drivers with the ability to negotiate hard obstacles without hurting anything, they use momentum as needed, tire placement and pure ability to recognize what needs to be done.. Then folks that hammer down everywhere they go and could break a anvil in a padded room.. Basic point being though for my response to the thread is 37s can be had a a stock jl rubicon and be quite durable.. For some not so much..
@@scrappyjackalope9558 yeah, I've seen those drivers. I am not that good yet. Also a manual on steep slick rock faces isn't that easy on the drive train. At least how I drive. :)
This is why I LOVE the extreme package that came with my new 2022 Jeep Wrangler Rubicon. To me, this is more than enough and it is done. My Jeep looks Fantastic with those 35s and I am very satisfied with this Extreme Package. All covered and under warranty from factory.
Where I live, about 40-45mins to the Rubicon and an hour to Fordyce Jeep Trail, 37s are just a requirement, and I run them on heavy KMC beadlocks. It is rare in my area to see anyone on 35s, you are either factory stock(31-33s), or on 37s or bigger(38 or 40+). Our local shops do Ring/Pinion front and rear, parts included, for $1500, it's done frequently so there is a lot of competition between shops keeping prices low. RCV front shafts are $1500, and stainless rear shafts are considerably less($500ish). That's about all that's needed to run 37s or bigger on a '18+ JL, or a '20+ JT in terms of drivetrain. I have a JT-R Diesel on 37s, not re-geared, and its not really needed. It gets 17 city, 24 highway, and has plenty of "go" to merge with traffic on the freeway. We will re-gear and truss when we go to 40s in the fall.
That's crazy 33' are a requirement where I'm at in tx and anything bigger then 35s are laughed at and assumed mall crawlers or just for looks. Haven't heard of needing 37s but I know different areas everyone runs the same size. Like mostly skinny tires in one City or state and super wide in another. 🤷🏻 I like 255/80/17 or 255/85/17 33-34 skinnys are more then enough for me. unless your doing extremely technical wall/🪨 gaping trails but even the Rubicon trail could be done with mostly stock jeep on 33s iv seen it done even with stock new bronco that had 35s. What trails are needed 37s and with such a small wheel base?
@@tenskeeze Anything you see "running the Rubicon" on 33"s or 35"s and a 3" or lower lift are running all the bypasses around the real obstacles. Broncos (those took a beatdown, they looked like they had been in a traffic accident by the end) and stock Wranglers are running every bypass for the real stuff. I don't run the bypasses, I run the trail as it was, not how the easy go-around bypass trails that skip everything. You aren't running SoupBowl or LIttle Sluice on 35s and a low lift, well not without major body damage. Jeepers Jamboree, a yearly event on the Rubicon requires a min of 37"s on Gladiators( I own one, and it's not a small wheelbase, and it's my primary Jeep), and 35"s on Wranglers, and closes off most of the tougher sections, stacks rocks ahead of time, and does crazy levels of "trail grooming" to get their paying customers up through the trail. In my area, we run the Sierra Nevada mountains, and there are many "baby Rubicons" very close by to the real Rubicon. The Rubicon is relentless, but it's not the hardest trail in my local area. The toughest trail in NorCal is Fordyce Jeep Trail, people from out of state come to run the Rubicon and then Fordyce. When you live in this area and run those trails, you view everything through that lens in terms of what is "hard" and what isn't. In my area, Mall Crawlers are on 35s", and have more lights and lightbars, then brains. TX has no mountains, only a tiny area that has rocks, it's a different world compared to CA, by a massive amount.
Here are some of the things I'm doing to put 37's on my Rubicon. Front axle sleeve, c gussets, brake upgrade, steering box, HD ball joints, HD tie rod and drag link, 3.5 lift with new shocks, 4.88 gears front and rear. Like you said pay now or more later. I'll also be upgrading my axles and driveshafts once I sell my kidney.
I’m waiting for the Jeep Dr to have some time to regear my ‘11 Jk rubicon automatic. Got a pro rock 44 housing and American iron ball joints and while he’s regearing to 5.13 getting him to replace the old factory parts for the upgraded ones. I have all the parts just need the labor done. It’s tougher than when waiting to open Christmas presents as a child. I hope the 3.8L doesn’t crap out after that’s done. Belly armor and a roll cage will be after that. I am doing all this to run 37’s and 17” bead locks .Just empty every pocket!
I run 37’s on my Wrangler JK. They do an amazing job and I can literally get thru anything. No drivetrain issues, no steering column issues, nothing. I have a rack and a lot of gear, so this kind of tire is necessary for the car.
I love 37s but I’m currently on 35s and I find them to do almost everything a 37 can. I have no problem going anywhere I want and I attribute that more to the lockers than I do the tires.
Hi from Puerto Rico, I have a 2011 LexusGX460, put a long travel 3 inch Dobinson suspensión, UCA from SPC and 35x12.5R18 Toyo Open Country MT, My Rig run Great , lose some miles per gallon but not much, i love how she looks
In the process of putting 37s under my 2018 JLU. 4 inch lift, Fox monotube shocks, crate Dana 44's, 4:88 gearing, lockers F/R, new drive shafts F/R. great vid, forgot about the fenders being a potential problem. along with the tailgate, going to have to reinforce that too.
Stock mud tires on Rubicon get us to incredible places on knarly terrain in the mountains. Two years in we have around 50% time off road and the only time the tires fell short is off-roading in winter before we put our studded tires on. We also bash on the rocks, but make it over
I have the 2020 jl with the 2.0T, it's a Sport with a falcon 3.5 lift. It has the Dana 30. I only trail ride and run the snowy roads in CO. It has 315s measuring 34.7 inch just short of 35s. This video has me spooked. Just order KO2 37s. Should I drop down to 35s? The Turbo seems to have torque for days, but what about the drivetrain?
thats why i sold my jeep and bought a jeep rescue recovery Power wagon rig. with a 6.4 Hemi sway bar disconnects front rear 4.10 locking diffs and a 12000lbs warn winch. 37" Goodyear MT/R fits perfect no mods on stock rims. its my daily driver. goes everywhere my wifes jeep goes and more. jeeps to light up front even for 35" tires. you really need to maintain the balance and wear. You maintain your tires with good rotation and balance. they will help so much with driving your jeep on 37 or 35 or 40 even. for a daily driver.
built 4 37's rolling on 35s . Did axel swap carbon built rock jock 44 Detroit locker front. d44 rear torson lsd carbon cromoly shafts 4.88 gears. ran stock tires for a year after was to poor 4 tires. 2" spacer lift.
Just put 35s on my rubicon, big loss mileage in general. 6th gear is almost useless not enough torque to keep the truck going if there is any grade up.
JTs are in a different ballpark. I went with 39s KM3s because they aren't too heavy for the size. Regeared to 5:38s, changed the front driveshaft to JE Reel and installing RPM tie rods and draglinks shortly. A lot more I want to do to beef up driveline and steering, but it will definitely be over time.
I did have to get Fiberglass fenders Bedsides with bulged shape to fit 35" tires to fit into them to reach the bumps tops my first upgrade was gears & lockers that helped a lot . I got them for my 87 from a part out from a 96 I got fenders core support all the lights & grill & a hood and spindle the brake calipers bolt to . I gusseted & plated my twin traction beams & built my long chromoly heim joint radius arms to beam connections much stronger I also installed an F250 passenger side slip shaft axle with bigger u joints and also chromoly outer axles & new better warn manual hubs. Upgraded the headlights to HID much better nd another set if brighter HID' WITH THE SAME BALLASTS I PUT INTO SOME HELL CANS FOR LONGER POT BEAMS OF LIGHT. tHEN UPGRADED MY BRAKES FRONT & REAR NEW BUILT FRONT & REAR Driveshafts. I cleaned up my transfer case & rebuilt it in my garage with new chain & planetary gears & mounting the oiler tube betterall new ambulance steering parts spindle studs bearings & seals & limit straps a new better radiator and AC Compressor was needed too wen I had to replace my high mileage les power 302 with a new full roller with maf that fires my efi on each cylinder instead of bank fired with the intakes ported and bigger injectors IR INTAKE AND AFR HEADS ll exhaust headers y pipe cats & muffler all new vacuum lines bigger fuel injectors a speedometer gear for a 351w internally balanced winder built into a 408 stroker . built for lots of torque for my long wheel suspension travel on nice King shocks I ordered from Bret after weighing aerate front & rear my monster trans rebuilt by art car the drag racers transmission shop to handle all the power i cycled it all clearing any tight spots my full size 4x4 Bronco
I have a 2013 with flat fenders and on 37 with spacers on stocksuspension ony jk 4 door and clear everything does very well offroad I have a 3" lift and haven't put it on love the stock ride to
More force also comes from all the weight of the tire being at a greater radius from the hub. This means that the added weight is also force multiplied by greater leverage due to a longer radius. Kinda like getting a cheater bar to break a nut loose and putting a fatter guy on the end of it. For the truck its Way more force to rotate and way more force to stop the rotation. There is more to consider than just the motor and the brakes. This also means more leverage on the steering components as well. Sometimes it's worth it and sometimes it's not.
I believe that's " High Dive" at Moab. I decided NOT to do that trail due to my short 96" wheel base on my TJ. BUT I DID DO PRITCHETT CANYON and had a blast.
I had a 2015 JLU on 35’s. I had a car pull out in front of me and I had to hit the breaks as hard as I could and barely slowed down. In my pinion bigger breaks is a must. They did fine most of the time but in an emergency breaking situation it was just dangerous.
great video i went to 37 on my 07 JK in doing so had to re gear then later upgrade steering and brakes so it ended up being very expensive also ball joints and axel shafts so think it through .
I generally prefer a skinnier tire because of the improved fit, better handling from less rolling resistance, and less stress on the drivetrain. 255/85R16 is probably the best 32”-33” and 285/75R18 seems to be the sweet spot, for 35” tires, at least for me.
I am thinking of just putting 37'a on my 2021 Rubicon unlimited. I have the factory extended warranty so I will keep my stock 33's and if I break something I will put the 33's back on before I take it to the dealer for warranty work. How does that sound?
Great video! I stuck with 35’s on my Sport JL, and still regeared to 4.56, swapped out to Mopar Off Road wheels with offset to wider tires, and a Mopar 2” (more like 4”) lift kit. Any bigger tires than that, I’ll break or twist the front axles anyway… and swapping to a Dana 44 Ultimate is more than I’m willing to shell out $$ for.
Look for factory Rubicon axles from someone upgrading to one-tons, they are on Facebook Marketplace and 4x4 FB group "for sale" pages all of the time. The Rubicon M210 front, M220 rear run 37s just fine. I have a '21 JT-R on 37s and wheel the shit out of it, no issues, and diesel powered.
I'm going to be putting 37s on my 4Runner with a 3 inch lift for the simple fact that I'm crippled and short I have Cerebral Palsy and I'm 5'5 and living in Maine we get pounded with snow so being able to see over snowbanks and not getting stuck are a absolute plus
Great video, been going back and forth on 35" vs 37" on my daily driver 2011 JKUR. The 3.8L turd of an engine already feels underpowered with 33"s. Don't want to empty every pocket for regear, new chromoly axle shafts, truss and c-gussets, big break kit, new ball joints, etc. but mannnn do those 37"s look good.
I'm right there with you...I've been running 35s on my 2008...The anemic 3.8 is a dog. I've re geared to 4:88s (manual tranny) and get about 14 mph...I have an off road teardrop on order and worry about how it will pull it. I want 37s, but, probably will not go larger than 35s.
Hope that trailer is light there's some under 2k-3k and liveable for two. I was looking for a pop up for 4 at 3500lb duel Axel 33' tires for floating. What's the dry weight on the tear drop?
@@tenskeeze Dry weight, complete with a 2 burner stove, water heater, spare tire, and fridge is supposed to be at 1000 lbs. It also has a 16 gallon water tank. I'll believe it when I see it...but, should be under 1500 lbs for sure. It's the TK47 from Overkill campers.
i beleive this is just one guys opinion, not law unless he knows the engineers over at Jeep. ive been running on 37's on dana 30s upfront on 3.73 gears no problems for like 3 years with moderate+ wheeling, listening to this video is like listening to your grandma give you advice on why not to even walk out the door because its dangerous out there. cmon. his other vid on why not to carry a spare tire is a joke. let me summarize in a few words "keep a spare only if you live on earth" lmao
So 2k for differentials, 1500 for wheels, 2k for the tires, 5k for suspension, and a weekend of work and you are done. It is stupid easy to reshim a differential so I have no idea why he said "if you know someone who knows how to perfectly reshim a differential". You do not have to upgrade anything else unless you are planning on going bigger than 38's or are an incompetent driver.
Good informative video. I remember when 33's where a big deal on the BF Goodrich AT, now 37's? The Jeeps are underpowered already, I can't imagine what 37's would do to it. I still don't know why FCA doesn't put the 5.7 Hemi in their Wranglers/Gladiators as a base engine, especially for the price of a new Jeep!
C-gussets, truss kits, chromoly shafts, 1310 or larger driveshafts, quality ball joints, quality set of 5.13 gears and that dana 44 will be plenty strong enough for most wheeling situations.
@williamviars4478 not really. As long as you're responsible and don't allow a ton of wheel hop, you'll get by just fine. Chromoly handles hard shock load better than stock shafts.
JL Rubicon to run 37's Tire carrier Tail gate reinforcement 3.5 lift with all bells n whistles like track bars, arms, springs, shocks Wheels and tires and possibly wheel spacers Programmer Regear to at least 488 1310 double Carden front driveshaft A steering upgrade to turn aired down 37's Chromoly rear shafts Cv fronts Ask me how I know
Lifted my 2018 JLUR 2 1/2 inches and running 37’s. Dont wheel it hard and realize wear on parts is gonna be greater. I need to regear as my power is down a little and MPG is down a lot.
Cromoly axles, upgraded steering, bigger brakes, upgraded 1 ton u joints and drive lines can all be done in stages before the 37s go on. Upgrades such as these will give you a greater margin of strength even if ultimately you decide 37s are not for you. The extra strength could mean the difference between driving up to an obstacle and deciding to try it or turning around because you don't want to break something, even on 35s.
I weighed in on lift and bigger tires, but after I did a few engine mods, 20mpg in town, 23.7mpg average hwy. I have decided to keep mine mostly stock with just minor upgrades in brakes and shocks. Now I have done moderate overlanding and managed to still get 16mpg average in 4wd, so for me larger tires at this time not a real necessity.
@@mdtwyne hey, believe it or not was the addition of a cold air intake, and the throttle body vortex insert, Sunluway Store Throttle Body Spacer Fits for 2012-2020 Jeep Wrangler JK JL JT Gladiator 3.6L Engine, and this cold air intake, K&N Cold Air Intake Kit: High Performance, Guaranteed to Increase Horsepower: Fits 2012-2018 Jeep (Wrangler, Wrangler JK) 3.6L V6, 77-1566KP
Yes just running 35 inch tires I gusset & plated m beams glass fenders & bedsides a built driveshafy gears & lockers bettter hubs & a 408 with it wl built it can mqke it perform better somesuspension is key too.
Brilliant! Makes so much sense. Plus no one talks about vehicle speed sensors. That is going to be thrown way off. The automatic transmission shift points will be noticeable.
@@hotjesssica954 nothing Mopar lift and 37s stock 4.10s with 2.0 turbo In fairness it’s a pavement princess / it’s our family weekend car I have to say it handles so much better than my jkur on 35s with the 3.6 motor.
@@upnorth4x4 I know right, lol! Seriously, I motocrossed, did enduros, mud bogged lifted trucks in my 20's, got that shit out of my system. Now that I'm older, the 4 hours worth of fun ain't worth the 4 days of cleaning and repairing. It was between buying another Harley or a JEEP. So I bought a Jeep, I can cruise with doors off kinda like on bike, but you can haul people, and I can customize the look like a bike. I just like a good looking ride, call me mall cruiser, thats ok, im too old to offend, lol! Kinda like the Z06 Vetter guy who never gets over 75 mph, lol! I will draw the line at a beefed up front bumper with a winch though, that looks dumb on a Jeep that never leaves the pavement, lol!
@@65dalexander I get that man. I'm 40 and the only difference between now and 20 years ago is ...... well I guess Not much has changed other than a corporate job and more jeeps to break. 😆🤣 do you man. If you ever wanna take it out it's definitely capable.
I have a '21 JT Rubicon, contemplating 37s, probably after I try 35s. I'm hoping for not only better clearance but I hope it helps with the breakover, even if a little. One of my concerns though, is that for most of these upgrades, the videos I've watched, going over lifts, larger tires, ring and pinion, etc, usually only refer to what it's like with an Automatic Transmission, I really haven't heard of what would happen with the Manual transmission that is on my JT. In my opinion anything over 4th gear is basically useless, unless I'm on super flat terrain, 5th and 6th gears are just too tall, and the clutch too vague, I still love manuals, but I'm concerned on how much it would kill what little power my JT does have. I don't plan on doing MAJOR rock crawling, probably just overlanding stuff, outside of daily driving.
not sure its helpful but we put 2.5” AEV lift with dual sport suspension with 35” yokohama mt tires and it has exceeded our expectations, we do a lot of heavy overlanding to back country in AZ and UT, this setup has completely performed, looks awesome, and will not break the bank; we added AEV wheels to the package that are designed for the JT specifically, amazing package
I have 37 inch tires on a Mopar lift with stock rubicon axles on my JLUR. I have done plenty of rock crawling, John Bull, Holocomb etc. i am just easy on the gas pedal and slowly crawl over things. I did upgrade all the steering components and track bars but I have been good so far, but I am prepared for the worst and have all my recovery gear and winch and don’t go alone. I think 37” is the max you should do. If not rubicon axles I would say 35”.
There will always be a weak point when you go to larger tires, doesn't mean it isn't worth doing. I run 37s on beadlocks on a '21 Jeep JT-R Diesel and it's definitely worth it.
@@iamblaineful I was just pointing out a weak point that wasn't mentioned in the video and it's worth considering. My tj has been re-geared with 4.56 but didn't want to go lower for that very reason.
@@iamblaineful I’m in the process of purchasing a jt diesel rubicon I heard that it handles the weight of the tires rather well. Did you need to regear or anything else besides a good lift kit
Great video, but i think you forgot to mention steering upgrades lol just saying. May not be required if you have a 2018+ rubicon and youre just running 37" ATs but if youre running heavier Mts or are going bigger, a steering upgrade is highly recommended... if you dont want to break. Keep it up guys good job
The dealer is putting the 2" (really 3.5) lift on my 2021 Wrangler rubicon in a few days and that lift says it's for 35s to 37s. I have an extended warranty so I just ordered 37s and new wheels. Gonna use it that way with maybe a new front drive shaft and if it breaks it will be under warranty.
So with our new JK 392 XR i am going to go to 37's. i feel the 392 will handle it fine. 456 gears will be fine. its a bit more HD then a regular Rubicon. but i will be adding a 3.5 inch Evo kit and King shocks and new stabilizer. i never beat my Jeep so i feel all will work good.
When I'm ready I want to upgrade my 2022 Tundra to handle 35's I think that is a good fit for someone that will use the truck for work mostly. I'm told Toyota will come out with a 2 1/2" lift soon. Might be worth to let the dealer upgrade and see if I can maintain my warranty LOL!
With a Rubicon gladiator diesel can't they run 37s without regearing ? I've just always heard with Rubicon axels and torque they could with the Mopar lift, is that wrong ?
To put my Jeep jku on 37s I had swap my fenders and install 1 ton steering components and had to do a big brake kit and 4 1/2 inch long arm lift that I stretched the wheel base in the rear about 2 inches so I didn't have to cut the body.... 4.88 gears RCV axles shafts and aftermarket custom drive shafts... My weakest link arm is my steering box it's a bitch to turn offroad... Will be going hydro assist in the future
Thanks Josh! I was contemplating 37’s on my (new to me) 12’ JKUR. I knew deep down the 35’s were the best option for not only my wallet but my skill level (this is my first Jeep), but those big tires look so dang good. Your video helped me from going down that rabbit hole and keep a second mortgage off the books. 😅
The tire thing gets crazy. Some go for performance reasons but I think far more go for the looks. Now from personal experience I have seen 33s and 35s do just fine everywhere guys are rolling around on 37s. In fact the guys who know how to drive on 33s do much better then the bigger tire guys. In the group I roll with there are a few old schoolers who would not be caught dead with anything bigger then 33s. You know what. They tend to be the better off roaders of the group. I personally like 35s and have been on them for years with my truck but even getting them to fit correctly can be a costly. I literally just spent 22k upgrading my suspension, axles, and all the little things underneath to make it work on my jeep. But I did it right. All to correctly fit and utilize 35s. Anything larger has its place, but the gain in rollover is so small when going up to 37s its not really worth it. Even going 40s seems to be overkill for most situations. Some guys here are rolling around on big ass 40s on their jeeps. Just about every one of them did little to improve the strength to support them. Most of them actually say they did it because it looks cool.
I started rock crawling on my stock 33s, upgraded to 35s and now 37s (because I got a free set). I 100% believe that crawling on my 33s made me a better and smarter driver. But I’ll be upgrading a handful of key components to accommodate for my 37s.
Assuming you are talking about the extreme recon package for the rubicon, for what you get it is a great option especially if you are looking to take it from factory to trail with little modification. better gearing, reinforced tailgate, 17" beadlock capable wheels, 1.5" suspension lift with tuned shocks, plus it comes with an excellent tire option being the BFG k02 If your plans are to heavily modify the vehicle and have the means to do so, then it may not be ideal as you would be taking most of that off to add in a different suspension, gearing, wheel options, etc.
Funny my stock JT Mojave 33” Falkens were 63lbs. My K02 37” C Rated is 67lbs. Not a huge hit overall but still going to 4.88’s to get some pep and mpg back
I had to wat h this video like 7 times to focus on what you were saying, those badass viseos of the crawling Jeeps kept distracting me 🤣 Good info, Thanks !!
99% of people putting 37‘s on a jeep are either using it as a mall crawler, daily driver or grocery getter. So 37‘s on a jeep with stock gears will work just fine.
Bigger tires are in my future thats for sure, but i am glad you mentioned the other ways of adding bigger tires without a lift. Yes a lift helps but is not always necessary when you have things like high clearance fenders, larger negative offset wheels, high clearance bumpers. This is obviously completely separate from the stuff you need without a doubt and that's gears to properly drive at speeds needed. Great Video Josh!!
I’d never get anything bigger than a 35” on my Rubicon Gladiator. It’s a strain on the hubs, the engine and the entire drivetrain with anything bigger. Plus MPGs go down drastically. I avg 21+ in mixed driving with my original 33”s. Getting 15 mpg is not something to look forward to.
You are 100% right. The only thing I would add is to plan your build out before you do anything and complete it in stages. Try to keep the parts you’ll end up buying twice to a minimum. I knew 37’s was what I bought my Jeep with a dream of 3 years ago. Has it completely planned out before I bought a Jeep. After I bought it and got the bug I considered going cheap and building to 35’s sir a stop gap but I pushed on and started buying parts for the end goal. Made some drivability sacrifices. This whole summer was 3.21 gears, Dana 30, and 37’s. Not ideal and no Moab trip this year but the Dynatrac’s are ordered and it’ll be that much sweeter next year. Only aftermarket part I’ll be selling is the 1310 adams front driveshaft. I feel like I might have been able to scrape by with the stock shaft or no front shaft and bought nothing twice. Slow down. Build it once and build it right.
I wanted taller gears for my Cummins Ram so I just put some 37 inch tires on instead. Easy on bigger vehicles with tons of torque. 37" tires on a Jeep without other mods are fine if you just want to be a mall crawler but all the mentioned upgrades are likely needed if you don't want to break on the trail.
Great video very informative , on the 14th i'm schedule to upgrade from a 35" to 37" 3 1/2 in. Lift i didn't know how expensive can it get. Thanks for sharing.
I think it was overly slanted in the negative towards 37s. I have a '21 JT-R (Gladiator) on 37s and beadlocks, and wouldn't run it any other way. It is a diesel so we haven't "needed" to re-gear, but we will this fall when we swap to 40s along with trussing the front axle. We wheel hard trails in NorCal including the Rubicon Trail (its in our backyard so to speak, about 40mins away), but there are a lot of trails in this area that are considered "moderate" by the locals, that would be mind blowing for non-Locals. The Sierra Nevadas change your view on what is hard, and what isn't. There are very few Jeeps out here that aren't on 37s or bigger.
@@iamblaineful Wow, look forward to heading west some time and checking those trails out. For now, I’ve ordered 35’s so I can put my effort towards the build and learn to wheel a wrangler. We’ve gone with the 392 so I’m not worried about regearing when we go to 37’s. Just need to learn more about what upgrades to suspension etc would be needed. Thank you.
BF Goodrich ko2 37 1250 by 17 load range c ways 1.44 lb more than a c load range 35 of the same size wll this make a big difference I would think not because the weight is so close? The 37 ways 64 pounds.
2020 jlurd with 37s. Diesel handles 3.73 pretty well, but you need to tell the computer (tazer jl). Alloys and rcv axles to keep away from trail repairs. 2" jeep performance lift. Absolutely love it and USE it.
I got 33’s on my 4runner. They are the perfect middle ground if it’s your daily driver which my 4runner. Still big enough to be capable and do most trails out there and yet doesn’t effect mpg or ride quality or acceleration nearly as bad as bigger sizes. I prolly won’t go bigger than 33’s.
@@andyham6094 You took the words right out of my mouth. Lol. My 3.6L Rubicon with the 8-speed auto is getting 22MPG. I like it because it’s my daily as well!
Hi from Puerto Rico, I have a 2011 LexusGX460, put a long travel 3 inch suspensión, UCA from SPC and 35x12.5R18 Toyo Open Country MT, My Rig run Great , lose done miles per gallon but not much, i love how it looks
Hello! thanks for sharing I booked a 2023 TUNDRA CrewMax SR5 Long Bed, any recommendation for rim & tire? (I don't wanna lift coilover) Personally I think original 265/70 R18 is too narrow. Thx.
I have a 2019 Jeep Rubicon JLU. I would like to run 37" tires. I have upgraded the gears to 4.56 Yukon gears; installed the Mopar 2" lift: installed TeraFlex adjustable ball joints and have 9x17 wheels with good offset. Does this sound like a setup that can handle these tires?
2021 JTR - 37”x20s was fairly easy they actually will clear without a lift. I did go ahead an lifted it anyway with a JKS 3-3.5 J-Venture & Fox 2.0 performance shocks designed more for ride vs off-roading. Decent lift won’t break the bank. I also geared from 4.10s to 5.13s which restored the power back to the wheels & allows it to shift properly along with reprogramming. I’m actually getting slightly better MPG with the 37s than I did with the stock 33s, gearing made the difference. Nitto released 38” which won’t require new Axels etc. if you can run 37’s the 38s should work. Where you get into the money are with 40s when you have to replace Axels and most everything else underneath.
Or buy your 37's, take it easy and wheel smart. Accept you are putting a little extra strain on parts and have fun.. Novel concept..
How dare you use common sense here lol.
That is ok if you don't like to do the hard trails. I personally build for the hard trails as those are the ones I enjoy the most. Where I am it is rare to crawl anything, it comes down to rock faces that are slick and require the skinny.
@@MrJoshItIs I like to do the hard stuff too. One thing I have seen in my 35 years of wheeling is there are finesse folks who are really skilled drivers with the ability to negotiate hard obstacles without hurting anything, they use momentum as needed, tire placement and pure ability to recognize what needs to be done.. Then folks that hammer down everywhere they go and could break a anvil in a padded room.. Basic point being though for my response to the thread is 37s can be had a a stock jl rubicon and be quite durable.. For some not so much..
@@scrappyjackalope9558 yeah, I've seen those drivers. I am not that good yet. Also a manual on steep slick rock faces isn't that easy on the drive train. At least how I drive. :)
Word
This is why I LOVE the extreme package that came with my new 2022 Jeep Wrangler Rubicon. To me, this is more than enough and it is done.
My Jeep looks Fantastic with those 35s and I am very satisfied with this Extreme Package. All covered and under warranty from factory.
Where I live, about 40-45mins to the Rubicon and an hour to Fordyce Jeep Trail, 37s are just a requirement, and I run them on heavy KMC beadlocks. It is rare in my area to see anyone on 35s, you are either factory stock(31-33s), or on 37s or bigger(38 or 40+). Our local shops do Ring/Pinion front and rear, parts included, for $1500, it's done frequently so there is a lot of competition between shops keeping prices low. RCV front shafts are $1500, and stainless rear shafts are considerably less($500ish). That's about all that's needed to run 37s or bigger on a '18+ JL, or a '20+ JT in terms of drivetrain. I have a JT-R Diesel on 37s, not re-geared, and its not really needed. It gets 17 city, 24 highway, and has plenty of "go" to merge with traffic on the freeway. We will re-gear and truss when we go to 40s in the fall.
your 8 speed is a bonus compared to use with 5 with a JK. I had to regear since 4.10 was just shitty with 37's.
That is called rolling the dice with your setup.
I've ran the whole Rubicon Trail on 33x12.50's.
That's crazy 33' are a requirement where I'm at in tx and anything bigger then 35s are laughed at and assumed mall crawlers or just for looks. Haven't heard of needing 37s but I know different areas everyone runs the same size. Like mostly skinny tires in one City or state and super wide in another. 🤷🏻 I like 255/80/17 or 255/85/17 33-34 skinnys are more then enough for me. unless your doing extremely technical wall/🪨 gaping trails but even the Rubicon trail could be done with mostly stock jeep on 33s iv seen it done even with stock new bronco that had 35s. What trails are needed 37s and with such a small wheel base?
@@tenskeeze Anything you see "running the Rubicon" on 33"s or 35"s and a 3" or lower lift are running all the bypasses around the real obstacles. Broncos (those took a beatdown, they looked like they had been in a traffic accident by the end) and stock Wranglers are running every bypass for the real stuff. I don't run the bypasses, I run the trail as it was, not how the easy go-around bypass trails that skip everything. You aren't running SoupBowl or LIttle Sluice on 35s and a low lift, well not without major body damage. Jeepers Jamboree, a yearly event on the Rubicon requires a min of 37"s on Gladiators( I own one, and it's not a small wheelbase, and it's my primary Jeep), and 35"s on Wranglers, and closes off most of the tougher sections, stacks rocks ahead of time, and does crazy levels of "trail grooming" to get their paying customers up through the trail. In my area, we run the Sierra Nevada mountains, and there are many "baby Rubicons" very close by to the real Rubicon. The Rubicon is relentless, but it's not the hardest trail in my local area. The toughest trail in NorCal is Fordyce Jeep Trail, people from out of state come to run the Rubicon and then Fordyce. When you live in this area and run those trails, you view everything through that lens in terms of what is "hard" and what isn't. In my area, Mall Crawlers are on 35s", and have more lights and lightbars, then brains. TX has no mountains, only a tiny area that has rocks, it's a different world compared to CA, by a massive amount.
Here are some of the things I'm doing to put 37's on my Rubicon. Front axle sleeve, c gussets, brake upgrade, steering box, HD ball joints, HD tie rod and drag link, 3.5 lift with new shocks, 4.88 gears front and rear. Like you said pay now or more later. I'll also be upgrading my axles and driveshafts once I sell my kidney.
Cost me 1700 dollars in parts just for the axles shafts in my jku... I feel like I got shafted lol
I’m waiting for the Jeep Dr to have some time to regear my ‘11 Jk rubicon automatic. Got a pro rock 44 housing and American iron ball joints and while he’s regearing to 5.13 getting him to replace the old factory parts for the upgraded ones. I have all the parts just need the labor done. It’s tougher than when waiting to open Christmas presents as a child. I hope the 3.8L doesn’t crap out after that’s done. Belly armor and a roll cage will be after that. I am doing all this to run 37’s and 17” bead locks .Just empty every pocket!
I run 37’s on my Wrangler JK. They do an amazing job and I can literally get thru anything. No drivetrain issues, no steering column issues, nothing. I have a rack and a lot of gear, so this kind of tire is necessary for the car.
Did you do a re-gear? What size lift do you have?
You have to do a re-gear if not you will be super slow, they will fit on a 2.5 inch lift you shouldn't have to extend the break lines either
I love 37s but I’m currently on 35s and I find them to do almost everything a 37 can. I have no problem going anywhere I want and I attribute that more to the lockers than I do the tires.
I’m on 15s bfg at :) does just fine ,,,,, everybody giggles , but it’s true
@@f87115
15in tires? What are you riding, a lawn mower.
I daily 37s on my JK. Don't be scared to step into that realm!
Lots doing it on stock junk axels that's not good .
Nice
Hi from Puerto Rico, I have a 2011 LexusGX460, put a long travel 3 inch Dobinson suspensión, UCA from SPC and 35x12.5R18 Toyo Open Country MT, My Rig run Great , lose some miles per gallon but not much, i love how she looks
In the process of putting 37s under my 2018 JLU. 4 inch lift, Fox monotube shocks, crate Dana 44's, 4:88 gearing, lockers F/R, new drive shafts F/R.
great vid, forgot about the fenders being a potential problem. along with the tailgate, going to have to reinforce that too.
Exact same thing we’ve done
Ur gonna want to do a big brake kit and I would suggest new axle shafts too and new steering box...
@@OkGreat- I’ve done that already too
Stock mud tires on Rubicon get us to incredible places on knarly terrain in the mountains. Two years in we have around 50% time off road and the only time the tires fell short is off-roading in winter before we put our studded tires on. We also bash on the rocks, but make it over
Stock 32s? What year? I run a Rubi 2016.
Probably a good idea to upgrade your steering box as well.
My JLUR has 37" tires. I'm happy with them and they are staying.
Same
Same here!
I have the 2020 jl with the 2.0T, it's a Sport with a falcon 3.5 lift. It has the Dana 30. I only trail ride and run the snowy roads in CO. It has 315s measuring 34.7 inch just short of 35s. This video has me spooked. Just order KO2 37s. Should I drop down to 35s? The Turbo seems to have torque for days, but what about the drivetrain?
@@michaelward5719did you run 37s with the 2.0t?
Big Brakes. Gotta be able to stop all that upgraded weight.
Great simple breakdown of how complex the answer to that question is.
Headphone users beware end credits are loud
thats why i sold my jeep and bought a jeep rescue recovery Power wagon rig. with a 6.4 Hemi sway bar disconnects front rear 4.10 locking diffs and a 12000lbs warn winch. 37" Goodyear MT/R fits perfect no mods on stock rims. its my daily driver. goes everywhere my wifes jeep goes and more. jeeps to light up front even for 35" tires. you really need to maintain the balance and wear. You maintain your tires with good rotation and balance. they will help so much with driving your jeep on 37 or 35 or 40 even. for a daily driver.
I keep eyeballing my co-workers 37s. They look great! Running 35s right now....
built 4 37's rolling on 35s . Did axel swap carbon built rock jock 44 Detroit locker front.
d44 rear torson lsd carbon cromoly shafts 4.88 gears. ran stock tires for a year after was to poor 4 tires. 2" spacer lift.
My Cummins handles my 37s well. I also appreciate the additional clearance it provides.
Just put 35s on my rubicon, big loss mileage in general. 6th gear is almost useless not enough torque to keep the truck going if there is any grade up.
JTs are in a different ballpark. I went with 39s KM3s because they aren't too heavy for the size. Regeared to 5:38s, changed the front driveshaft to JE Reel and installing RPM tie rods and draglinks shortly. A lot more I want to do to beef up driveline and steering, but it will definitely be over time.
On Dana 44s?
@@alixsobh3593 gladiators come with Dana 44s even the sports. Only rubi and max tow have a slightly wider d44
I did have to get Fiberglass fenders Bedsides with bulged shape to fit 35" tires to fit into them to reach the bumps tops my first upgrade was gears & lockers that helped a lot . I got them for my 87 from a part out from a 96 I got fenders core support all the lights & grill & a hood and spindle the brake calipers bolt to . I gusseted & plated my twin traction beams & built my long chromoly heim joint radius arms to beam connections much stronger I also installed an F250 passenger side slip shaft axle with bigger u joints and also chromoly outer axles & new better warn manual hubs. Upgraded the headlights to HID much better nd another set if brighter HID' WITH THE SAME BALLASTS I PUT INTO SOME HELL CANS FOR LONGER POT BEAMS OF LIGHT. tHEN UPGRADED MY BRAKES FRONT & REAR NEW BUILT FRONT & REAR Driveshafts. I cleaned up my transfer case & rebuilt it in my garage with new chain & planetary gears & mounting the oiler tube betterall new ambulance steering parts spindle studs bearings & seals & limit straps a new better radiator and AC Compressor was needed too wen I had to replace my high mileage les power 302 with a new full roller with maf that fires my efi on each cylinder instead of bank fired with the intakes ported and bigger injectors IR INTAKE AND AFR HEADS ll exhaust headers y pipe cats & muffler all new vacuum lines bigger fuel injectors a speedometer gear for a 351w internally balanced winder built into a 408 stroker . built for lots of torque for my long wheel suspension travel on nice King shocks I ordered from Bret after weighing aerate front & rear my monster trans rebuilt by art car the drag racers transmission shop to handle all the power i cycled it all clearing any tight spots my full size 4x4 Bronco
Can you make a video like this for a rubicon JL?
I have a 2013 with flat fenders and on 37 with spacers on stocksuspension ony jk 4 door and clear everything does very well offroad I have a 3" lift and haven't put it on love the stock ride to
More force also comes from all the weight of the tire being at a greater radius from the hub. This means that the added weight is also force multiplied by greater leverage due to a longer radius. Kinda like getting a cheater bar to break a nut loose and putting a fatter guy on the end of it. For the truck its Way more force to rotate and way more force to stop the rotation. There is more to consider than just the motor and the brakes. This also means more leverage on the steering components as well. Sometimes it's worth it and sometimes it's not.
5:30 nice save. Took a hard hit, though, on that rear tire.
Yeah I watched that part a few times. Smart driver too.
I believe that's " High Dive" at Moab. I decided NOT to do that trail due to my short 96" wheel base on my TJ. BUT I DID DO PRITCHETT CANYON and had a blast.
@@phild9813 Ha! Me also. Was def worthy of a rewind. 👍
I had a 2015 JLU on 35’s. I had a car pull out in front of me and I had to hit the breaks as hard as I could and barely slowed down. In my pinion bigger breaks is a must. They did fine most of the time but in an emergency breaking situation it was just dangerous.
great video i went to 37 on my 07 JK in doing so had to re gear then later upgrade steering and brakes so it ended up being very expensive also ball joints and axel shafts so think it through .
I generally prefer a skinnier tire because of the improved fit, better handling from less rolling resistance, and less stress on the drivetrain. 255/85R16 is probably the best 32”-33” and 285/75R18 seems to be the sweet spot, for 35” tires, at least for me.
Your post got cut off...
@@DUNEATV thanks. I finished the thought.
I run 35s on my gladiator, works well for my driving style in central Alaska.
My stocker that gets 20 mpg is perfect. I have no desire to do the Rubicon trail.
Yeah but stock Jeeps look puny & boring. If you're going to buy a Jeep, do it justice.
@@hakenkreuz7076 If I go that route, I'll just put 42's on a Power Wagon. LOL!
Agreed, that trail looks brutal!
I am thinking of just putting 37'a on my 2021 Rubicon unlimited. I have the factory extended warranty so I will keep my stock 33's and if I break something I will put the 33's back on before I take it to the dealer for warranty work. How does that sound?
Great video! I stuck with 35’s on my Sport JL, and still regeared to 4.56, swapped out to Mopar Off Road wheels with offset to wider tires, and a Mopar 2” (more like 4”) lift kit. Any bigger tires than that, I’ll break or twist the front axles anyway… and swapping to a Dana 44 Ultimate is more than I’m willing to shell out $$ for.
Look for factory Rubicon axles from someone upgrading to one-tons, they are on Facebook Marketplace and 4x4 FB group "for sale" pages all of the time. The Rubicon M210 front, M220 rear run 37s just fine. I have a '21 JT-R on 37s and wheel the shit out of it, no issues, and diesel powered.
I did not think you could fit 456 gearing in a Dana 35. That gives me hope . Because like you said who the hell has money to buy Dana 44s.
I'm going to be putting 37s on my 4Runner with a 3 inch lift for the simple fact that I'm crippled and short I have Cerebral Palsy and I'm 5'5 and living in Maine we get pounded with snow so being able to see over snowbanks and not getting stuck are a absolute plus
Super excited to see the build Mat! Let us know if you need help with it!
Great video, been going back and forth on 35" vs 37" on my daily driver 2011 JKUR. The 3.8L turd of an engine already feels underpowered with 33"s. Don't want to empty every pocket for regear, new chromoly axle shafts, truss and c-gussets, big break kit, new ball joints, etc. but mannnn do those 37"s look good.
I'm right there with you...I've been running 35s on my 2008...The anemic 3.8 is a dog. I've re geared to 4:88s (manual tranny) and get about 14 mph...I have an off road teardrop on order and worry about how it will pull it. I want 37s, but, probably will not go larger than 35s.
Hope that trailer is light there's some under 2k-3k and liveable for two. I was looking for a pop up for 4 at 3500lb duel Axel 33' tires for floating. What's the dry weight on the tear drop?
@@xbpbat21x ?
@@tenskeeze Dry weight, complete with a 2 burner stove, water heater, spare tire, and fridge is supposed to be at 1000 lbs. It also has a 16 gallon water tank. I'll believe it when I see it...but, should be under 1500 lbs for sure. It's the TK47 from Overkill campers.
i beleive this is just one guys opinion, not law unless he knows the engineers over at Jeep. ive been running on 37's on dana 30s upfront on 3.73 gears no problems for like 3 years with moderate+ wheeling, listening to this video is like listening to your grandma give you advice on why not to even walk out the door because its dangerous out there. cmon. his other vid on why not to carry a spare tire is a joke. let me summarize in a few words "keep a spare only if you live on earth" lmao
So 2k for differentials, 1500 for wheels, 2k for the tires, 5k for suspension, and a weekend of work and you are done. It is stupid easy to reshim a differential so I have no idea why he said "if you know someone who knows how to perfectly reshim a differential". You do not have to upgrade anything else unless you are planning on going bigger than 38's or are an incompetent driver.
Good informative video. I remember when 33's where a big deal on the BF Goodrich AT, now 37's? The Jeeps are underpowered already, I can't imagine what 37's would do to it. I still don't know why FCA doesn't put the 5.7 Hemi in their Wranglers/Gladiators as a base engine, especially for the price of a new Jeep!
C-gussets, truss kits, chromoly shafts, 1310 or larger driveshafts, quality ball joints, quality set of 5.13 gears and that dana 44 will be plenty strong enough for most wheeling situations.
I have upgraded everything you listed on my 2008 JK but the D44s have the stock shafts in them, is chromoly really required?
@williamviars4478 not really. As long as you're responsible and don't allow a ton of wheel hop, you'll get by just fine. Chromoly handles hard shock load better than stock shafts.
JL Rubicon to run 37's
Tire carrier
Tail gate reinforcement
3.5 lift with all bells n whistles like track bars, arms, springs, shocks
Wheels and tires and possibly wheel spacers
Programmer
Regear to at least 488
1310 double Carden front driveshaft
A steering upgrade to turn aired down 37's
Chromoly rear shafts
Cv fronts
Ask me how I know
Finally someone with knowledge no like all other people that think its all about fitting the big tires in the wheel well.
🙏
Lifted my 2018 JLUR 2 1/2 inches and running 37’s. Dont wheel it hard and realize wear on parts is gonna be greater. I need to regear as my power is down a little and MPG is down a lot.
Even when u re-gear it's still a thirsty pig on 37s
Cromoly axles, upgraded steering, bigger brakes, upgraded 1 ton u joints and drive lines can all be done in stages before the 37s go on. Upgrades such as these will give you a greater margin of strength even if ultimately you decide 37s are not for you. The extra strength could mean the difference between driving up to an obstacle and deciding to try it or turning around because you don't want to break something, even on 35s.
99
and here i am lugging my 33's on my 3rd Gen 4Runner.
I weighed in on lift and bigger tires, but after I did a few engine mods, 20mpg in town, 23.7mpg average hwy. I have decided to keep mine mostly stock with just minor upgrades in brakes and shocks. Now I have done moderate overlanding and managed to still get 16mpg average in 4wd, so for me larger tires at this time not a real necessity.
What were your mods to get over 20mpg? Thanks!
@@mdtwyne hey, believe it or not was the addition of a cold air intake, and the throttle body vortex insert, Sunluway Store
Throttle Body Spacer Fits for 2012-2020 Jeep Wrangler JK JL JT Gladiator 3.6L Engine, and this cold air intake, K&N Cold Air Intake Kit: High Performance, Guaranteed to Increase Horsepower: Fits 2012-2018 Jeep (Wrangler, Wrangler JK) 3.6L V6, 77-1566KP
@@lostcause1144 🤣😂🤣😂🤣😂B S.
Yes just running 35 inch tires I gusset & plated m beams glass fenders & bedsides a built driveshafy gears & lockers bettter hubs & a 408 with it wl built it can mqke it perform better somesuspension is key too.
Need to switch to hydraulic steering.... I blew my pump out just on 35's on the trail! I want 37s, but there is no way with out hyd steering
34" is the line for me. I don't need a boatload of clearance, and it gives me just a bit more clearance than 31.5's - 33's.
Brilliant! Makes so much sense. Plus no one talks about vehicle speed sensors. That is going to be thrown way off. The automatic transmission shift points will be noticeable.
That’s why you purchase the j scan or a super chips flash cal and reprogram for your tire size.
I have 37s on my JLUR and I love it …
Nice
did you re gear? what else did you upgrde as far as drive lift? train any thing.else ?
@@hotjesssica954 nothing
Mopar lift and 37s stock 4.10s with 2.0 turbo
In fairness it’s a pavement princess / it’s our family weekend car
I have to say it handles so much better than my jkur on 35s with the 3.6 motor.
@@greygoose4x46 so regearing is not a must for me ?
@@greygoose4x46 4.10s is what
Fixing to put 37’s on my ram 2500 cummins. Shouldn’t have any issues from what I’ve read. I have 3.73 gears.
My 2021 Rubicon with 2.5 lift and 37s is averaging 21 MPG. Stock gears, runs and drives great, daily driver with no off-roading planned.
Whats the point then? Like have a drag car that you don't race.
@@upnorth4x4 I know right, lol! Seriously, I motocrossed, did enduros, mud bogged lifted trucks in my 20's, got that shit out of my system. Now that I'm older, the 4 hours worth of fun ain't worth the 4 days of cleaning and repairing. It was between buying another Harley or a JEEP. So I bought a Jeep, I can cruise with doors off kinda like on bike, but you can haul people, and I can customize the look like a bike. I just like a good looking ride, call me mall cruiser, thats ok, im too old to offend, lol! Kinda like the Z06 Vetter guy who never gets over 75 mph, lol! I will draw the line at a beefed up front bumper with a winch though, that looks dumb on a Jeep that never leaves the pavement, lol!
@@65dalexander I get that man. I'm 40 and the only difference between now and 20 years ago is ...... well I guess Not much has changed other than a corporate job and more jeeps to break. 😆🤣 do you man. If you ever wanna take it out it's definitely capable.
@@upnorth4x4 At 56 i feel the same about drinking as off-roading, the fun ain't worth the hangover, lol!
You must drive extremely slow if you’re getting that kind of gas mileage because every other post I see is showing 15-16mpg with 37’s.
I have a '21 JT Rubicon, contemplating 37s, probably after I try 35s. I'm hoping for not only better clearance but I hope it helps with the breakover, even if a little. One of my concerns though, is that for most of these upgrades, the videos I've watched, going over lifts, larger tires, ring and pinion, etc, usually only refer to what it's like with an Automatic Transmission, I really haven't heard of what would happen with the Manual transmission that is on my JT. In my opinion anything over 4th gear is basically useless, unless I'm on super flat terrain, 5th and 6th gears are just too tall, and the clutch too vague, I still love manuals, but I'm concerned on how much it would kill what little power my JT does have. I don't plan on doing MAJOR rock crawling, probably just overlanding stuff, outside of daily driving.
not sure its helpful but we put 2.5” AEV lift with dual sport suspension with 35” yokohama mt tires and it has exceeded our expectations, we do a lot of heavy overlanding to back country in AZ and UT, this setup has completely performed, looks awesome, and will not break the bank; we added AEV wheels to the package that are designed for the JT specifically, amazing package
I have 37 inch tires on a Mopar lift with stock rubicon axles on my JLUR. I have done plenty of rock crawling, John Bull, Holocomb etc. i am just easy on the gas pedal and slowly crawl over things. I did upgrade all the steering components and track bars but I have been good so far, but I am prepared for the worst and have all my recovery gear and winch and don’t go alone. I think 37” is the max you should do. If not rubicon axles I would say 35”.
And as you go deeper in gearing to compensate for larger tires the small and weaker the pinion gets.
There will always be a weak point when you go to larger tires, doesn't mean it isn't worth doing. I run 37s on beadlocks on a '21 Jeep JT-R Diesel and it's definitely worth it.
@@iamblaineful I was just pointing out a weak point that wasn't mentioned in the video and it's worth considering. My tj has been re-geared with 4.56 but didn't want to go lower for that very reason.
@@iamblaineful I’m in the process of purchasing a jt diesel rubicon I heard that it handles the weight of the tires rather well. Did you need to regear or anything else besides a good lift kit
My jeep wrangler jeep Sport s 2021 came with 35 inch tires from the dealer dodge jeep.
mine too an love it last 7 years I've had it
Great video, but i think you forgot to mention steering upgrades lol just saying. May not be required if you have a 2018+ rubicon and youre just running 37" ATs but if youre running heavier Mts or are going bigger, a steering upgrade is highly recommended... if you dont want to break. Keep it up guys good job
The dealer is putting the 2" (really 3.5) lift on my 2021 Wrangler rubicon in a few days and that lift says it's for 35s to 37s. I have an extended warranty so I just ordered 37s and new wheels. Gonna use it that way with maybe a new front drive shaft and if it breaks it will be under warranty.
damn, must be good to be rich 🤑 lol
So with our new JK 392 XR i am going to go to 37's. i feel the 392 will handle it fine. 456 gears will be fine. its a bit more HD then a regular Rubicon. but i will be adding a 3.5 inch Evo kit and King shocks and new stabilizer. i never beat my Jeep so i feel all will work good.
Jeep just released a wrangler with a V8 and 35s. I highly doubt one tire size more on a smaller engine is crossing the breakage threshold.
When I'm ready I want to upgrade my 2022 Tundra to handle 35's I think that is a good fit for someone that will use the truck for work mostly. I'm told Toyota will come out with a 2 1/2" lift soon. Might be worth to let the dealer upgrade and see if I can maintain my warranty LOL!
All good points, and we still threw 37’s on our Gladiator. 👍🏻
Mine is stock with a level and 37"s are fine.
With a Rubicon gladiator diesel can't they run 37s without regearing ? I've just always heard with Rubicon axels and torque they could with the Mopar lift, is that wrong ?
To put my Jeep jku on 37s I had swap my fenders and install 1 ton steering components and had to do a big brake kit and 4 1/2 inch long arm lift that I stretched the wheel base in the rear about 2 inches so I didn't have to cut the body.... 4.88 gears RCV axles shafts and aftermarket custom drive shafts... My weakest link arm is my steering box it's a bitch to turn offroad... Will be going hydro assist in the future
I would also suggest a custom front axle with Better caster angles to get your driving manners back...
Thanks Josh! I was contemplating 37’s on my (new to me) 12’ JKUR. I knew deep down the 35’s were the best option for not only my wallet but my skill level (this is my first Jeep), but those big tires look so dang good. Your video helped me from going down that rabbit hole and keep a second mortgage off the books. 😅
thank you. just wondering jeep rubicon crd 2 8 diesel has gear ratio 4 88 . Should I go back to 37 to 35
My rig came stock with 37s so I’m just dropping my rim size down and keeping it 37.
I am leaning more toward a 2 or 3" lift with 35s. I may even do a 2 or 3 " lift and leave it on 33s.
Thank you, boss, for your accurate analysis and explanation. I have benefited.
The tire thing gets crazy. Some go for performance reasons but I think far more go for the looks. Now from personal experience I have seen 33s and 35s do just fine everywhere guys are rolling around on 37s. In fact the guys who know how to drive on 33s do much better then the bigger tire guys. In the group I roll with there are a few old schoolers who would not be caught dead with anything bigger then 33s. You know what. They tend to be the better off roaders of the group. I personally like 35s and have been on them for years with my truck but even getting them to fit correctly can be a costly. I literally just spent 22k upgrading my suspension, axles, and all the little things underneath to make it work on my jeep. But I did it right. All to correctly fit and utilize 35s. Anything larger has its place, but the gain in rollover is so small when going up to 37s its not really worth it. Even going 40s seems to be overkill for most situations. Some guys here are rolling around on big ass 40s on their jeeps. Just about every one of them did little to improve the strength to support them. Most of them actually say they did it because it looks cool.
I started rock crawling on my stock 33s, upgraded to 35s and now 37s (because I got a free set). I 100% believe that crawling on my 33s made me a better and smarter driver. But I’ll be upgrading a handful of key components to accommodate for my 37s.
What are your thoughts on the factory xtreme 35” package from Jeep?
Assuming you are talking about the extreme recon package for the rubicon, for what you get it is a great option especially if you are looking to take it from factory to trail with little modification.
better gearing, reinforced tailgate, 17" beadlock capable wheels, 1.5" suspension lift with tuned shocks, plus it comes with an excellent tire option being the BFG k02
If your plans are to heavily modify the vehicle and have the means to do so, then it may not be ideal as you would be taking most of that off to add in a different suspension, gearing, wheel options, etc.
Funny my stock JT Mojave 33” Falkens were 63lbs. My K02 37” C Rated is 67lbs. Not a huge hit overall but still going to 4.88’s to get some pep and mpg back
I had to wat h this video like 7 times to focus on what you were saying, those badass viseos of the crawling Jeeps kept distracting me 🤣 Good info, Thanks !!
That's what I am saying 😂 Happy you enjoyed the video we appreciate the support!
Way cheaper to watch others dump $$$ into their builds then wreck them. 😂😂
Remember what Tiny Tank said "it's not the size of your howitzer, it's how you use it." 😉
Oh my god I forgot about that
99% of people putting 37‘s on a jeep are either using it as a mall crawler, daily driver or grocery getter. So 37‘s on a jeep with stock gears will work just fine.
Not really it makes it really sluggish a rehear should be the first thing after.
@@aaronho4242 that’s my issue. Sluggish and no power. It’s $1700 for regearing in my area.
You are so wrong.
Bigger tires are in my future thats for sure, but i am glad you mentioned the other ways of adding bigger tires without a lift. Yes a lift helps but is not always necessary when you have things like high clearance fenders, larger negative offset wheels, high clearance bumpers.
This is obviously completely separate from the stuff you need without a doubt and that's gears to properly drive at speeds needed.
Great Video Josh!!
I appreciate how slow my jeep is compared to my wrx. I have to really try to speed.
When you go to a 3.5" lift you will need to upgrade drive shafts at some point
Yep. Just did mine haha. Actually went from 11.9 to 14 mpg though! Lol
I’d never get anything bigger than a 35” on my Rubicon Gladiator. It’s a strain on the hubs, the engine and the entire drivetrain with anything bigger. Plus MPGs go down drastically. I avg 21+ in mixed driving with my original 33”s. Getting 15 mpg is not something to look forward to.
Yours a diesel? I’m getting 16.4-16.9 mixed driving that’s a huge difference
You are 100% right. The only thing I would add is to plan your build out before you do anything and complete it in stages. Try to keep the parts you’ll end up buying twice to a minimum.
I knew 37’s was what I bought my Jeep with a dream of 3 years ago. Has it completely planned out before I bought a Jeep. After I bought it and got the bug I considered going cheap and building to 35’s sir a stop gap but I pushed on and started buying parts for the end goal. Made some drivability sacrifices. This whole summer was 3.21 gears, Dana 30, and 37’s. Not ideal and no Moab trip this year but the Dynatrac’s are ordered and it’ll be that much sweeter next year. Only aftermarket part I’ll be selling is the 1310 adams front driveshaft. I feel like I might have been able to scrape by with the stock shaft or no front shaft and bought nothing twice.
Slow down. Build it once and build it right.
I wanted taller gears for my Cummins Ram so I just put some 37 inch tires on instead. Easy on bigger vehicles with tons of torque. 37" tires on a Jeep without other mods are fine if you just want to be a mall crawler but all the mentioned upgrades are likely needed if you don't want to break on the trail.
Steering gear ⚙ box and power steering pump upgrade for heavier larger tires, or hydro assist
Great video very informative , on the 14th i'm schedule to upgrade from a 35" to 37" 3 1/2 in. Lift i didn't know how expensive can it get. Thanks for sharing.
Glad we could help ya out! Thanks for watching!
Your going to need gears. 4.88/5.13
Life is short and 1 time only worth 37" 😉😉😉✌
Waiting on our new wrangler to arrive and have been weighing this very question. Great video, well presented. Thank you
I think it was overly slanted in the negative towards 37s. I have a '21 JT-R (Gladiator) on 37s and beadlocks, and wouldn't run it any other way. It is a diesel so we haven't "needed" to re-gear, but we will this fall when we swap to 40s along with trussing the front axle. We wheel hard trails in NorCal including the Rubicon Trail (its in our backyard so to speak, about 40mins away), but there are a lot of trails in this area that are considered "moderate" by the locals, that would be mind blowing for non-Locals. The Sierra Nevadas change your view on what is hard, and what isn't. There are very few Jeeps out here that aren't on 37s or bigger.
@@iamblaineful Wow, look forward to heading west some time and checking those trails out. For now, I’ve ordered 35’s so I can put my effort towards the build and learn to wheel a wrangler. We’ve gone with the 392 so I’m not worried about regearing when we go to 37’s. Just need to learn more about what upgrades to suspension etc would be needed. Thank you.
Some quick thinking at 5:30 almost tipped Over there, what was the damage from that drop on the rear end? 😂😂
How much power do you lose with 35s? Should you regear even for 35?
“Gears n Beers “. That gonna be a new shirt soon?
BF Goodrich ko2 37 1250 by 17 load range c ways 1.44 lb more than a c load range 35 of the same size wll this make a big difference I would think not because the weight is so close? The 37 ways 64 pounds.
Is it true that a 2 door on 35s is as capable as a 4 door on 37s?
2021 JLURD with Mopar 2” lift should have no issues with 37’s? Trying to decide on whether to go with 35’s or 37’s.
2020 jlurd with 37s. Diesel handles 3.73 pretty well, but you need to tell the computer (tazer jl). Alloys and rcv axles to keep away from trail repairs. 2" jeep performance lift. Absolutely love it and USE it.
Holy cow that Jeep at 5:29 almost learned how to do a somersault.
😂
Alot of things to do from 35s on up.
Just for an inch and a half basicallt
Might as well stay at 35’s because if you go 37” you will feel bad for not being one the the 40” cool kids.
Save money/gain performance and use 35’s.
I love the factory 33’s on my 2021 Rubicon...great on road and great off-road!
I got 33’s on my 4runner. They are the perfect middle ground if it’s your daily driver which my 4runner. Still big enough to be capable and do most trails out there and yet doesn’t effect mpg or ride quality or acceleration nearly as bad as bigger sizes. I prolly won’t go bigger than 33’s.
@@andyham6094 You took the words right out of my mouth. Lol. My 3.6L Rubicon with the 8-speed auto is getting 22MPG. I like it because it’s my daily as well!
It’s funny because back in the day 33’s were considered huge, now they’re stock!
@@onebridge7231 Seriously! I bought a 1992 Wrangler brand new and put 31’s on it! Lol
Hi from Puerto Rico, I have a 2011 LexusGX460, put a long travel 3 inch suspensión, UCA from SPC and 35x12.5R18 Toyo Open Country MT, My Rig run Great , lose done miles per gallon but not much, i love how it looks
I had 37s and geared. Too much money waste?
Hello! thanks for sharing
I booked a 2023 TUNDRA CrewMax SR5 Long Bed, any recommendation for rim & tire? (I don't wanna lift coilover)
Personally I think original 265/70 R18 is too narrow.
Thx.
What coolant temperatures does 37-in tires cause the engine to run
I have a 2019 Jeep Rubicon JLU. I would like to run 37" tires. I have upgraded the gears to 4.56 Yukon gears; installed the Mopar 2" lift: installed TeraFlex adjustable ball joints and have 9x17 wheels with good offset. Does this sound like a setup that can handle these tires?
You'll want to put larger brakes on as well with 37's
Basically have a set for every day driving and another set for offroading.
5:06 idk if that guy thought he could catch the jeep or ??
2021 JTR - 37”x20s was fairly easy they actually will clear without a lift. I did go ahead an lifted it anyway with a JKS 3-3.5 J-Venture & Fox 2.0 performance shocks designed more for ride vs off-roading. Decent lift won’t break the bank. I also geared from 4.10s to 5.13s which restored the power back to the wheels & allows it to shift properly along with reprogramming. I’m actually getting slightly better MPG with the 37s than I did with the stock 33s, gearing made the difference. Nitto released 38” which won’t require new Axels etc. if you can run 37’s the 38s should work. Where you get into the money are with 40s when you have to replace Axels and most everything else underneath.