How To Time A 12 Valve Cummins
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 25 มี.ค. 2021
- In this video you will learn how to check and adjust the injection timing on a 1994-1998 cummins diesel
PUMP NUT TORQUE 155FTLBS
STEP 1 remove injection lines
STEP 2 remove delivery valve holder and valve for cylinder 1
STEP 3 install dial indicator as far as it will go
Step 4 remove the oil filler neck
STEP 5 turn the engine CRANKSHAFT COUNTER CLOCKWISE until the dial indicator stops dropping
STEP 6 remove the pump nut DONOT DROP WASHER INTO THE TIMING CASE
STEP 7 install the gear removal tool and take the gear off the injection pump shaft
STEP 8 put nut back on shaft and tighten gear until it will just turn the pump over THIS WILL PREVENT THE TIMING FROM JUMPING IN THE NEXT STEPS
STEP 9 find the lift you want in the plunger for the amount of timing you want
STEP 10 rotate the CRANKSHAFT CLOCKWISE until the dial indicator reads the amount of lift you want
STEP 11 remove the pump nut gear again
STEP 12 turn the CRANKSHAFT COUNTER CLOCKWISE 1/4 TURN
STEP 13 remove the timing plug from the back of the timing cover
STEP 14 put the plug back in without the oring on it to make it slide better. Rotate the CRANKSHAFT SLOWLY CLOCKWISE while pressing the timing plug into the hole against the cam gear, you will feel a pop as the pin slides into the hole in the cam gear
STEP 15 clean the pump shaft very well with brake clean and compressed air then tighten the nut just till it will bite the shaft and spin the pump
STEP 16 remove the timing plug and rotate the CRANKSHAFT COUNTER CLOCKWISE until the needle stops moving
STEP 17 put the plug back in the timing cover and rotate the CRANKSHAFT CLOCKWISE while putting pressure on the plug again, watch the dial indicator until the pin pops into the timing hole in the cam gear, if the needle is where you want it then back out the plug and put the oring back on. then install it back into the housing but leave it out far enough that it doesn't rub on the cam.
STEP 18 torque the injection pump nut to 155ftlb and re assemble the engine - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
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Been watching several different videos of this and I think yours is probably the best. It shows all the important details, but also simple and easy to understand. I rescued a 1995 with 380k miles and am preparing give it some love.
Thanks! Sounds like a nice truck. Good foundation to build on.
Good job
Thanks!
also is that timing pin supposed to be pinned while the motor is running or only when trying to find TDC?
Only to find TDC
Where did you buy the kit??? I’m desperate right now. Have a 97 12v I’m installing an adjustable timing gear and advancing the timing to 22 degrees but don’t know if my truck is at 18 or 20 degrees currently. Curious how you recommend determining what the current timing is at.
I bought it years ago from diesel auto power. And as for finding timing just pin time it to stock and go from there.
After you pin time the pump, at what point do you pull the pin on the pump and RE install so it’s not pinned anymore
After the pump nut is snugged up so it can’t turn. I wouldn’t do final torque with it still pined. If the engine turns over at all when torquing it could bent to tab.
couldn't you skip step 6 & 7 of removing the gear nut as in the video you left it on but not overly tight?
I have a p7100 , and the inlet side I use clear hose and there are no air bubbles, on the outlet side or the return line there is millions of air bubbles, it loose power and shut off, I bleed it and runs enough to drive for 10 minutes at before it begins to slow down, again, and I bled it again.Note I Change the lift pump, injectors still the same. So I think the p-pump produce air causing it to do this. Any thought before I buy a ppump.
Delete the fuel heater and replace all the fuel lines from the tank to the pump. Use marine grade fuel lines. West marine sells marine grade fuel line and LarryB's fuel line kits come with everything for dodge 12 valve. And get a lift pump elbow hose. I just figured the stock fuel lines are garbage so might as well. And there's a beans sump that would eliminate any problems with the draw straw in the tank.
I had air bubbles in my return line and it has all new fuel line and ran good, so I don't think your pump is bad. If you have to pump the lift pump to start it, then you probably just have air leaking in a cracked fuel line somewhere. Fuel filter might even be loose and letting air in. These ppumps go a million miles
Its a few years later so hopefully you figured it out by now but if not It’s probably your ofv either replace it or upgrade to adjustable
can the timing pin be put in 180 out? or is always at tdc?
On the cam it’s always at tdc.
with the dial indicator in when turning counterclockwise to zero the indicator.... is the pump still pinned?
No or you will break the tab
@@screamindieselltd appreciate the response... new owner of a 12valve so wasn't exactly clear to me. Thank you so much
@@screamindieselltd so
Do you need to pin time the pump also ? I want to move my timing from factory 12.5 on my 215hp pump to 18 degrees
I had the timing cover on and when I tried turning the motor over with the pump gear pulled out, and tried turning the motor over to line up the dimple, the pump gear still moved
Yup the gear will still move but the pump shaft will not turn if the gear has been pulled off it. There is no key way in the pump it’s just a tapered fit.
Ok so I did the timing and everything, it starts up but once you get to 1200 rpms it pops out of the exhaust and blows whit smoke
Can you tell me how to do this on a 12 valve with ve pump
The VE trucks don’t really have a way to do it with a dial indicator. They are more like how you adjust timing on a car with a distributor. You have to loosen the mounting bolts for the pump to the timing case and rotate the pump clockwise looking at the back of the pump.
@@screamindieselltd I’m getting ready to do a tappet cover billet and gasket on my 12v cummins do I need to break the pump nut first are would I go ahead and pin time it first then break pump nut lose then rotate engine clock wize to drop nipple into notch in back of timing cover ? I was leaving timing stock
No matter what, my truck started smoking and popping like the timing slipped or air is in the line. I've timed it this way 5 times today
Are you pin timing or a dial indicator?
@@screamindieselltd Pin, I sent the Injectors away to get tested
@@vendetta1306 ok because I was going to say I’ve had pumps jump 180* when pulling the gear off before. But if your using the pin that wouldn’t matter.
Thanks for this vid, just got a 05 Fummins and I love it but it smokes white at idle so I was looking through the receipts and found a few papers explaining how to set the timing(with greasy finger prints) and my trucks plunger specs were apparently .1925 BTDC. That was in 2011 it’s 2021 so possibly the timing slipped again and it’s smoking white now? I’d like to advance it to 16 degrees just like you
It’s possible that it slipped a little, but from my experience they don’t slip a little they slip a lot when they do. Losing any coolant? Does the smoke smell sweet or burn your eyes and smell like diesel.
@@screamindieselltd smells like diesel and seems like it’s just not burning the fuel, not sure if it has bigger injectors or anything. How could I tell what injectors are in it? A specific gauge for the holes? I’ve tuned the afc to have good power and it still smokes a lot. I’ve also tuned it to not smoke before boost or anything and it still hazes at idle
It has head studs and doesn’t seem to burn any coolant
@@cameroncaltabiano5030 it very well could be the injectors. The only way I know of getting them checked is a test bench that measures the flow and compares it to factory numbers. The holes are too small to measure with a gauge.
@@cameroncaltabiano5030 timing being off will also make it run like junk. No boost, missing when trying to rev up and just run like garbage