Dude thank you so much, I was panicking thinking my block had cracked open. Turns out 30 year old gaskets suck. It was easier for me because I have a ve pump but it's all the same. Again thanks so much
7:30 ? Just like magic its on. Any torque values for the hold down bolts? My truck is the 24 valve so a little different. The gasket kit came with two different types of washers. Six had rubber under steel, and 6 were really thin washers that had 4 little tabs on the inside diameter, maybe there to catch the threads so they don't fall off when you're starting the threads. No instructions came with gasket kit. I wanted to use the steel&rubber washers, but they were too thick and not enough of the bolt's threads engaged the block. So I used the thin steel ones because that's what was used prior.
I’m not sure the torque spec on those bolts. I’ve never used one for them. They are just normal bolts so I just tighten them up. And yes I have seen some gaskets come with the thick steel/rubber washers. Usually felpro. Just use whatever style was there before. Thanks for watching!
@@screamindieselltd Thank you! I used the same type of washer that was there, and socked them up pretty good - just by feel. My gasket is a felpro. I was disappointed to see it was made in China.
I had my tappet cover swapped by a shop because it had a bad leak. They installed a billet cover. Now my truck makes this annoying humming noise that I know is for sure coming from that area by the injector lines but the shop is throwing their hands up saying they don’t know where that noise is coming from. Any ideas what it might be? The noise gets louder as I step on the gas but doesn’t seem to affect the truck.
The factory cover has a noise isolating fabric on it. Without that you may be hearing gear train noise from the timing gears in the front. Just a thought. There’s not really anything inside that cover that would make noise at all. It’s just the tappets and pushrods.
Do you mean the stud coming off of it or the center bolt hole? If you mean the studs than yes it will work just fine. All that does is hold souls dampening material on the cover. If it’s missing an actual mounting hole than I wouldn’t use it. It may not sit tight against the block and seal, so you may have a leak.
I’m subscribed! Have you ever done one while the engine is still under the hood! I was changing my starter yesterday and noticed that my cover was cracked but not leaking yet???
It’s possible if the pump jumped a little when you piped the gear off. It may be running say 10* instead of 13*. If it’s out a lot it won’t run good but a little bit it will still run but not as good as it did.
I'm gonna remove the head on my ppump 12v. Getting head oringed and doing some port work. I'd like to replace tappet cover gasket as well. Will i be able to do tappet cover gasket with head off or will I still have to remove my pump. I've got it timed go 20* would rather not remove it if i can do tappet gasket with the head off. Let me know thank you.
Unfortunately you will have to remove the pump. If you mark everything and line it Back up where it was you should be fine. Like mark the crank to the timing cover and mark where the injection pump shaft is in the gear. Or you can retime the pump with a timing kit. There pretty cheap and fairly easy to use. Hope that helps! Thanks for the comment. Any other questions or want the pump retimed feel free.
@@screamindieselltd I just got my tappit cover, I'm just worried about pulling the pump off, if the engine says tap dead center and the pump says tap dead center there should be no problem putting it back on, I hope
@@screamindieselltd Let it be known the tappitt cover can come off without pulling the p pump you have to rip the insulation piece off and air hammer air chisel one of the little studs and it slides out the back!!!!!
@@johnmaxx4818 yes it can be done but the bolt behind the pump is a pain to get to, but I've done 4 now and never removed the pump. Also this guys got the gasket on backwards.
Did you put the gasket on with the thicker side facing the block? It’s easy to put it on the cover backwards. And a skim of silicone is always helpful on gaskets.
@@screamindieselltd I believe this is exactly what I have done I just replaced mine on a 24 valve and it leaks worse than it did before talk about frustrating no instructions on the packet whatsoever with the felpro gasket I am in the process of pulling everything back off just to flip the gasket around 🤬🤬🤬
@@screamindieselltd I had to look and see how the blue tab was on yours. I know mine was sitting flush with the block and yours is sitting up. Ugh the humanity..haha
I love your knowledge of the good ole 12 valve! Thank you sir!
Thanks! Glad you enjoyed the video.
Dude thank you so much, I was panicking thinking my block had cracked open. Turns out 30 year old gaskets suck. It was easier for me because I have a ve pump but it's all the same. Again thanks so much
You make it look so easy
badass video man. Very informative.
Thank you sir!
Thanks some much super helpful and easy to follow
Glad you found it helpful!
keep um coming, interesting and informative
What does it cost for you guys to do this job?
Great video man! I'm going to tackle this job tomorrow, how are you turning the engine? From where? If with a socket, what size?
Thanks! Crank bolt on the damper. It’s a 15mm.
7:30 ? Just like magic its on. Any torque values for the hold down bolts?
My truck is the 24 valve so a little different. The gasket kit came with two different types of washers. Six had rubber under steel, and 6 were really thin washers that had 4 little tabs on the inside diameter, maybe there to catch the threads so they don't fall off when you're starting the threads.
No instructions came with gasket kit.
I wanted to use the steel&rubber washers, but they were too thick and not enough of the bolt's threads engaged the block. So I used the thin steel ones because that's what was used prior.
I’m not sure the torque spec on those bolts. I’ve never used one for them. They are just normal bolts so I just tighten them up. And yes I have seen some gaskets come with the thick steel/rubber washers. Usually felpro. Just use whatever style was there before. Thanks for watching!
@@screamindieselltd Thank you! I used the same type of washer that was there, and socked them up pretty good - just by feel.
My gasket is a felpro. I was disappointed to see it was made in China.
@@savage22bolt32 I’ve noticed ALOT of parts say China on them even Mahle sets.
@@screamindieselltd 🇺🇸
I had my tappet cover swapped by a shop because it had a bad leak. They installed a billet cover.
Now my truck makes this annoying humming noise that I know is for sure coming from that area by the injector lines but the shop is throwing their hands up saying they don’t know where that noise is coming from.
Any ideas what it might be? The noise gets louder as I step on the gas but doesn’t seem to affect the truck.
Does it get louder with rpm? Does it sound like a gear noise?
Yes it does
The factory cover has a noise isolating fabric on it. Without that you may be hearing gear train noise from the timing gears in the front. Just a thought. There’s not really anything inside that cover that would make noise at all. It’s just the tappets and pushrods.
for the plug, do you leave it in there when the cap is put back on or do you take it out.
You flip it around so the fork that holds the tab in the pump can’t hit it. It gets stored inside the cap on the side of the pump.
The one I bought on Amazon doesn’t have the middle bolt. It will work?
Do you mean the stud coming off of it or the center bolt hole? If you mean the studs than yes it will work just fine. All that does is hold souls dampening material on the cover. If it’s missing an actual mounting hole than I wouldn’t use it. It may not sit tight against the block and seal, so you may have a leak.
I’m subscribed! Have you ever done one while the engine is still under the hood! I was changing my starter yesterday and noticed that my cover was cracked but not leaking yet???
Yup it’s the same process just a little harder to get at.
It's impossible when you reinstall the pump that it could be one tooth off either way yet it still starts and runs OK
Help
It’s possible if the pump jumped a little when you piped the gear off. It may be running say 10* instead of 13*. If it’s out a lot it won’t run good but a little bit it will still run but not as good as it did.
@@screamindieselltd How can I correct that,it runs sluggish more black smoke
@@johnmaxx4818 your going to have to pin time the engine and pump back to stock.
Do you have to have it pin timed inorder to remove the pump?
You don’t have to no. But it makes getting it running after quicker.
Just to clarify it's recommended to pin time both the gear as well as the inj pump. I know on the ag side some engine s its best to do both
I'm gonna remove the head on my ppump 12v. Getting head oringed and doing some port work. I'd like to replace tappet cover gasket as well. Will i be able to do tappet cover gasket with head off or will I still have to remove my pump. I've got it timed go 20* would rather not remove it if i can do tappet gasket with the head off. Let me know thank you.
Unfortunately you will have to remove the pump. If you mark everything and line it Back up where it was you should be fine. Like mark the crank to the timing cover and mark where the injection pump shaft is in the gear. Or you can retime the pump with a timing kit. There pretty cheap and fairly easy to use. Hope that helps! Thanks for the comment. Any other questions or want the pump retimed feel free.
@@screamindieselltd 10-4 thank you buddy! I like your videos.
Is it the same for the ve pump ?
Should be yes. Only timing the pump will be different
Do you have to take the head off?
No just the injection pump.
Is it possible to replace a tappit gasket without pulling the ppump
In the truck? I don’t believe so. I’ve never tried to. There’s way more room if you pull the pumps off.
@@screamindieselltd I just got my tappit cover, I'm just worried about pulling the pump off, if the engine says tap dead center and the pump says tap dead center there should be no problem putting it back on, I hope
@@johnmaxx4818 as long as the pins are in the right position your golden.
@@screamindieselltd Let it be known the tappitt cover can come off without pulling the p pump you have to rip the insulation piece off and air hammer air chisel one of the little studs and it slides out the back!!!!!
@@johnmaxx4818 yes it can be done but the bolt behind the pump is a pain to get to, but I've done 4 now and never removed the pump. Also this guys got the gasket on backwards.
I replaced mine and it leaked more. I feel like I should have used silicone
Did you put the gasket on with the thicker side facing the block? It’s easy to put it on the cover backwards. And a skim of silicone is always helpful on gaskets.
@@screamindieselltd I believe this is exactly what I have done I just replaced mine on a 24 valve and it leaks worse than it did before talk about frustrating no instructions on the packet whatsoever with the felpro gasket I am in the process of pulling everything back off just to flip the gasket around 🤬🤬🤬
@@ribbs67 that could be. It’s easily done to put it on backwards.
@@screamindieselltd I had to look and see how the blue tab was on yours. I know mine was sitting flush with the block and yours is sitting up. Ugh the humanity..haha
For some reason my 24v has a 12v tappet cover on it
Someone could have wanted more crankcase venting. So it has one on the side and front.
👍🏾
Cr's don't have a tappet cover
I know I misspoke
Common rails do not have tappet cover lol
Must have miss spoke.