I got the dial indicator like yours and installing an adjustable timing gear as well. My trucks stock timing was 14 degrees then increased to 18 then to 20 but I'm not sure the guy did it right last time and want to figure out how to check the timing it is currently at. I currently have the engine cranked over to TDC and the dial indicator in. When checking the timing pin in the pump I noticed that the pin in the pump that is horizontal on yours is almost vertical in mine and my a bit confused how to proceed.
Very interesting! Where do we obtain the adapter to hold the dial indicator? How did you know that .251 of lift on the pump plunger was 20.5 degrees of timing? Would that .251 be 20.5 degrees of timing for any P-Pump or just for yours?
If you google it you can buy a kit. When you get a kit it will come with the lift vs timing charts for each pump. I will have kits for sale soon. But still working on the website.
Rob, Don't understand how the height of the #1 pump plunger indicates timing. There must be a height when the pump squirts fuel. Need some further explanation please
Did you snap off your timing arm in the pump in this video? You started barring the motor over with the pump pinned and the pump gear was still pressed onto the shaft, or did you flip the pin back around without it on video?
Gear side it no timed. You just put it i so you can adjust it in the slots. What I do it pin the engine at tdc and pin the pump at stock timing put the gear in tighten it down. Then check the timing with a gauge timing kit
How can I do this without the dial? I can find the dial but no where can I find the adapter. I found a kit on amazon says it will work with a VP pump but not sure about a P7100 pump
@@CUTTERUPROBI’m installing and adjustable timing gear on my 97 12v but not sure how to check the current timing without the dial indicator, can’t find the adapter anywhere. Truck was advanced to 18 degrees then 20 but I have my suspensions it was left at 18 so want to check before I advance to 22 degrees
i edited that part out by accident. you want to to play the timing pin out before you move the engine after bring it to tdc or you will break the end off
@@CUTTERUPROB 6.7 crank mahle non intercooled 155 bowl pistons shaved .080 off 17:1 compression 5x12 155 spray injectors 024 delivery valves 178/208 Hamilton cam 215 hp ppump 3 angle valve job on head dps 3 peice manifold modded holset 60x86 compressor 67x76 turbine I have the option of the 12cm or 16cm exhaust housing
@@tjboggs3710 hey sorry thought I messaged you back. I would start at 22 with a 155 bowl. As stock timing for them is 24. But the higher you get up in timing the hard it will be to start
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Love the content Rob. Constantly honing and learning new skills from watching your videos. Always insightful and easy to understand
🙏
Interesting videos you have right there I can't wait until I can get my 6.7 block machined and run p pump on it
Very interesting information. Great content
Thank you!
I got the dial indicator like yours and installing an adjustable timing gear as well. My trucks stock timing was 14 degrees then increased to 18 then to 20 but I'm not sure the guy did it right last time and want to figure out how to check the timing it is currently at. I currently have the engine cranked over to TDC and the dial indicator in. When checking the timing pin in the pump I noticed that the pin in the pump that is horizontal on yours is almost vertical in mine and my a bit confused how to proceed.
Very interesting! Where do we obtain the adapter to hold the dial indicator? How did you know that .251 of lift on the pump plunger was 20.5 degrees of timing? Would that .251 be 20.5 degrees of timing for any P-Pump or just for yours?
If you google it you can buy a kit. When you get a kit it will come with the lift vs timing charts for each pump. I will have kits for sale soon. But still working on the website.
Did you ever make any of these? @@CUTTERUPROB
Rob, Don't understand how the height of the #1 pump plunger indicates timing. There must be a height when the pump squirts fuel. Need some further explanation please
I will do a video
May be a stupid question. But what is hole in the timing cap cover on the front cover?
It’s for a fill or vent
The cover is awesome 👍 great video
Thanks for watching
Did you snap off your timing arm in the pump in this video? You started barring the motor over with the pump pinned and the pump gear was still pressed onto the shaft, or did you flip the pin back around without it on video?
no i pulled it out after i installed the gear before i started rolling the engine over, but i have done it before. live and learn
Will advancing create more top or bottom end power?
Depends on the the setup and where your timing is. But most cases with more more power higher in the rpm
How do you get the pump a #1 tdc since it moves independent of the gear? Also, is the pump gear timed to the cam gear at all?
Gear side it no timed. You just put it i so you can adjust it in the slots. What I do it pin the engine at tdc and pin the pump at stock timing put the gear in tighten it down. Then check the timing with a gauge timing kit
@@CUTTERUPROB ok, I was a little confused, but that makes perfect sense!
How can I do this without the dial? I can find the dial but no where can I find the adapter. I found a kit on amazon says it will work with a VP pump but not sure about a P7100 pump
look up timing kit for a 12v cummins. in my opinion this is the only right way to do it. if you want to timing it stock you have follow the oem way
@@CUTTERUPROBI’m installing and adjustable timing gear on my 97 12v but not sure how to check the current timing without the dial indicator, can’t find the adapter anywhere. Truck was advanced to 18 degrees then 20 but I have my suspensions it was left at 18 so want to check before I advance to 22 degrees
Rob, are you ever going to show how to convert a 24 Valve Cummins 5.9 from a VP44 to the online mechanical? Thanks.
yes sir
My buddy keeps telling me to do 18.5 * of timing. He feels that works the best. What do you think is best for a 12 valve with minimal mods?
16-18 is where i start
Would 28* timming cause a slight engine knock? while in gear after like 1100 you can really hear it
i describe it as marbles in a can. but ya they sound different
@@CUTTERUPROB I'm going to back down timming and ensure that's my sound thanks for the awesome content
28 is a bit high for most setup's
Is the gear keyed to the pump with this setup. great videos
Yes it is
I’m lost anyway I didn’t see you pulling the timing pin out from the pumps before you move the motor to timing. Not clear what you did.
i edited that part out by accident. you want to to play the timing pin out before you move the engine after bring it to tdc or you will break the end off
What degree of timing do you recommend for the best power between 1600 to 2000 rpm thanks
I need to know more about your setup. it not a one size fits all. my dd its happy place is 24 degree. what do you have done to it ?
@@CUTTERUPROB 6.7 crank mahle non intercooled 155 bowl pistons shaved .080 off 17:1 compression 5x12 155 spray injectors 024 delivery valves 178/208 Hamilton cam 215 hp ppump 3 angle valve job on head dps 3 peice manifold modded holset 60x86 compressor 67x76 turbine I have the option of the 12cm or 16cm exhaust housing
@@tjboggs3710 hey sorry thought I messaged you back. I would start at 22 with a 155 bowl. As stock timing for them is 24. But the higher you get up in timing the hard it will be to start
Did you snap the timing pin?
No you just never seen me pull it out in the video
@@CUTTERUPROB had to ask...
I try to find you on Instagram I didn’t come up send me Exactly how it’s listed
Cutteruprob