I wish mine did on my 85 C30 and 86 K2500. The 86 I'm pretty sure the compressor is shot because I put just enough R12 in it to get the compressor to kick on then it looked up after 2 or 3 seconds. Not sure about the 85.
Feel down on the floor and see if some air is coming out the bottom, if it is get in there and check out those vacuum lines that open and close the doors, that will improve your air flow out the vents too.
THANK YOU! I have an 86 and the heat kicks ass. Even on 90* days with the switch on “a/c”… Also there’s a vacuum line that is black with a grey line that comes through your firewall into your “vacuum ball” and if that line is leaking the vacuum, the door won’t operate. Maybe check that out. That’s going to be my first step. Video number 10 and I’m starting to understand! Lol
You have what is known as a diverter valve I believe behind the passenger kick panel vacuum to it is what sucks the vent door shut, check the back of your ac control panel in the dash and check your vacuum lines..
The second one does push more air the cage has fins on both sides of the squirrel cage the heater fans don't have find on both sides inside and outside of the squirrel cage.The Pm140 is the one for both heat and A/C.
I have the same problem with my crew cab square body 88 1ton. We cleaned the evaporator coils 34 years no filter you would be surprised how much junk was blocking the air flow.
@ Joe's Classic Video Games The vacuum line leaks are 100% typical. Also check the vacuum pump if you have one. My 83 6.2 diesel has to have one as the engines do not make vacuum like gassers. Personally given the age of the truck and the fact you have changed about 80% of all the climate control parts already LOL you should replace all the vacuum lines and check the vacuum manifold if you have one for cracks etc. I would also have used a larger amp rated relay and upgrade the power wires to a thick gauge. All of the older trucks wiring caused more than ideal voltage and thus power drops. You can use the multimeter and check voltage and amps @ the blower terminal vs alt post. My bet is its a full volt less if its still using the original wire and connectors not to mention the ground wire. The ground wires are too thin and not enough of them for these trucks. The old connectors will have higher resistance as well. I have no idea what else you have done in terms of electrical upgrades but going to a cs140 alt from a 95-96 impala SS will help with 0/4 g wire for bat alt starter & grounds (hint: use welding wire its higher quality and more flexible. The early 80s c/k had 60-80 amp SI alts. Maybe 40 amps @ idle. Do the lights dim when you turn your heater blower on high at idle? A quality cs144 more than doubles idle output Its also way more HD sheds heat and more durable. Upgrade the dual headlights to CIBE 4x6 H4 lenses and then use Philps Ralley or Osram Super Bright 100/90 bulbs in al 4 and wire it so all 4 low beam filaments work low and all the highs on high. Just wiring to work that way 2x total light output and going from sealed to H4 and those bulbs more than doubles that. With 4 you can spread the focus to cover more, vs 2 light, then typical as well. Use 12g wire 2 40a dual 87 output relays and hd high temp ceramic H4 sockets. Use the wires currently going to the lights as the control wires as OEM runs power thru the switch which alone costs you 30+$ light output in voltage drop. Also inline fuse between bat and relay set it at 20% above amp draw of light watts using 12v not 13.7 as they need to run with engine off and batteries draining. Plenty of how tos out there fr these upgrades. @Mr. T. about why keep the OEM Made in Good Old USA blower vs crap-o-cheap China part is it doesn't work any better as Joe is eluding too. Its all the same parts and power and thats the point. Also to everyone / Joe If your blower fan goes out you could just open the OEM USA made housing and replace/rebuild the actual motor itself. This is where you can actually upgrade the blower. They all have the same basic fins and blades. But a motor that has a higher amp and most important higher peak rpm WILL get you more air flow. Its not as if there is not plenty of room there for a larger motor you just may have to cut the housing back to fit and the reseal it which you can use metal HVAC tape and or epoxy. Also consider looking at where the INTAKE port for the air the blower is forcing into the vents comes from and look there for ways to decrease restrictions. These are awesome trucks and unmolested ones not turned into mudders or rusted out are become much more rare every yr. Happy to offer you manty other very cool and worthwhile upgrades. Just let me know we can talk via email.
Tim, I have a 6.2 diesel in my truck and the center vents does not blow hard, if you have experienced this issue, could you provide me with some insight on resolving the issue? I am thinking replacing the vacuum pump would resolve the issue.........
It could be possible that the other blower motor runs off of a slightly different Resistor or Relay to utilize whatever difference there is. If the amount of voltage, current draw and the fan design is exactly the same there's no reason to think you would somehow get more airflow. The motor would either need to have more current draw to spin faster or the fan blade design would need to be a different style to produce more airflow.
I drilled out the grommet on the firewall and replaced all of those harder plastic type of vacuum that runs to the door blend actuators. 85 custom deluxe
lol, I thought this was a video from one of the car channels I subscribed to. But it was from your arcade channel. Here in europe you almost don;t see pickup trucks, too bad, I like them, especially these older ones.
"Here in Europe you almost don't see pickup trucks" ............... Europe sounds like hell :) J/K over here there are pickup trucks everywhere.... but we don't understand football :) Glad you liked the video!
Not to bad, we have cars like the renault twingo or peugeot 107 :( yuk. Most upsetting thing though, here in Spain I haven't found a decent place that has milkshakes, Prob the only place in europe where you cannot get a milkshake @ burgerking or mcdonalds. At BK and McD you can get a beer though with your menu, 2 bad no unlimited refills :S
I wouldn't be caught DEAD in one of those two cars, lol. Tha'ts pretty cool about the beer, over here the Mcdonalds and Burger Kings all suck the service is really bad, when you go in everybody acts like they hate their job and don't even speak.
The difference is probably because of the plugin, different location or different type of plugin. The blower wheel could be different, number of blades, shape, ect. Check on a blower motor/fan for a van, they have a larger area to cool than a truck cab does.
I just pulled my heater box out of my 86 K2500 to replace the heater core. Now just need to get the thing back in, get a few other odd n' end stuff taken care of on the truck, then it's back on the road finally in a long time to do some fuel mileage testing with the current Q-Jet then switch to a spare Q-Jet after a few tanks of fuel. Also get her into the body shop to burn in some patch panels then turn around and more or less do it all over again with my 85 C30 dually. On a different note what's with the vacuum ball next to the blower fan? I've seen it on trucks with ESC equipped 305 and maybe 350 SBC, but I've never been able to figure out its purpose unless it's a backup to the main one for the cruise and vent controls.
I believe that stores vacuum when the engine is at full throttle. There is a one way valve near the firewall. I believe it is fed by a line tee-d off the transmission vacuum line
was going to try this on my 85. my purple power wire has been cut when you put the new fan motor was that easy to install with the wire to the relay? plug and play?
It's so strange to see the blower motor in the engine compartment. I'm either used to working on trucks so old that there's no AC to speak of, or cars where you stand on your head to get underneath the glovebox to find it.
Bottom and in the vents means your defrost vent isn't opening up, there's a vacuum line that goes to it as well from your engine bay that hooks up to the manifold, if that's not hooked up or the line has a leak in it you won't get that vent to open up, it's a door in the box under the dash that sends the air all to the top.
Joe's Classic Video Games can you tell me everything you changed and do you know of any good deals (where you got them) or if a product is better than others? I'm trying to figure out how much this is going to cost! Thanks for the help!
Joseph I don't even remember, if you take it open though you'll see what you need to do. There's no spring holding the door or anything, so anything will hold it open, I think I might have used a smashed up coke can!
Hahaha my 91 camaro had weak air flow to I bought new stuff to n passenger side floor got cold I thought it was water leak turn out there was a hole in that box I just plugged it up n now more air blowing
Chevy Ridin High Boy (Yo Gotti) I remember my first Chevy 73' I was 17 ridin wit a whole B It was money green, fat boy triple gold Tha 20's era, right when we stop ridin fo's Lamb'd up ride, 30 inch rims glide 6 feet off tha ground make it hard fa you ta see inside
I just followed your instructions and my 87 a/c blows hard and ice cold. Thanks a million brother for this video.
No problem Lerry..... STAY COOL
I wish mine did on my 85 C30 and 86 K2500. The 86 I'm pretty sure the compressor is shot because I put just enough R12 in it to get the compressor to kick on then it looked up after 2 or 3 seconds. Not sure about the 85.
I think you just solved my issue for a 90 suburban. Thanks for making this video
Very cool man glad it helped!
Man, that was easy. thank you for the tip. 1989 suburban had horrible air flow, $27 and 20 minutes later it is vastly improved.
Feel down on the floor and see if some air is coming out the bottom, if it is get in there and check out those vacuum lines that open and close the doors, that will improve your air flow out the vents too.
Thanks for the heads up, I was considering the upgrade. I will check the box behind the glove compartment for sure!
Yeah take that cover off and you'll see what's going on. Once you look at it you'll see what's messed up.
THANK YOU! I have an 86 and the heat kicks ass. Even on 90* days with the switch on “a/c”… Also there’s a vacuum line that is black with a grey line that comes through your firewall into your “vacuum ball” and if that line is leaking the vacuum, the door won’t operate. Maybe check that out. That’s going to be my first step. Video number 10 and I’m starting to understand! Lol
Very good man, yeah you have to have that vacuum it's the only thing that opens those doors!
@@LyonsArcade the door that controls the switch between heat and ac is controlled by a wire not vacuum
You have what is known as a diverter valve I believe behind the passenger kick panel vacuum to it is what sucks the vent door shut, check the back of your ac control panel in the dash and check your vacuum lines..
Might take your tips out to my old pickup. I got a cooking thermometer in my vents to keep an eye on the temp, look like you do too lol
The second one does push more air the cage has fins on both sides of the squirrel cage the heater fans don't have find on both sides inside and outside of the squirrel cage.The Pm140 is the one for both heat and A/C.
That makes sense John, thanks!
Thanks. Helped tremendously with my ‘87!!
Very cool Tim, glad it helped! Mine is working ICE COLD this summer...
Hello Sir i just found out the air is coming from the bottom ohh man so which side should i turn the door ????
Always check the blade direction also
Some after markets are reversed blades
I have the same problem with my crew cab square body 88 1ton. We cleaned the evaporator coils 34 years no filter you would be surprised how much junk was blocking the air flow.
Yeah it's crazy how much stuff gets in there!
@ Joe's Classic Video Games
The vacuum line leaks are 100% typical. Also check the vacuum pump if you have one. My 83 6.2 diesel has to have one as the engines do not make vacuum like gassers. Personally given the age of the truck and the fact you have changed about 80% of all the climate control parts already LOL you should replace all the vacuum lines and check the vacuum manifold if you have one for cracks etc. I would also have used a larger amp rated relay and upgrade the power wires to a thick gauge. All of the older trucks wiring caused more than ideal voltage and thus power drops. You can use the multimeter and check voltage and amps @ the blower terminal vs alt post. My bet is its a full volt less if its still using the original wire and connectors not to mention the ground wire. The ground wires are too thin and not enough of them for these trucks. The old connectors will have higher resistance as well.
I have no idea what else you have done in terms of electrical upgrades but going to a cs140 alt from a 95-96 impala SS will help with 0/4 g wire for bat alt starter & grounds (hint: use welding wire its higher quality and more flexible. The early 80s c/k had 60-80 amp SI alts. Maybe 40 amps @ idle. Do the lights dim when you turn your heater blower on high at idle? A quality cs144 more than doubles idle output Its also way more HD sheds heat and more durable. Upgrade the dual headlights to CIBE 4x6 H4 lenses and then use Philps Ralley or Osram Super Bright 100/90 bulbs in al 4 and wire it so all 4 low beam filaments work low and all the highs on high. Just wiring to work that way 2x total light output and going from sealed to H4 and those bulbs more than doubles that. With 4 you can spread the focus to cover more, vs 2 light, then typical as well. Use 12g wire 2 40a dual 87 output relays and hd high temp ceramic H4 sockets. Use the wires currently going to the lights as the control wires as OEM runs power thru the switch which alone costs you 30+$ light output in voltage drop. Also inline fuse between bat and relay set it at 20% above amp draw of light watts using 12v not 13.7 as they need to run with engine off and batteries draining. Plenty of how tos out there fr these upgrades.
@Mr. T. about why keep the OEM Made in Good Old USA blower vs crap-o-cheap China part is it doesn't work any better as Joe is eluding too. Its all the same parts and power and thats the point.
Also to everyone / Joe If your blower fan goes out you could just open the OEM USA made housing and replace/rebuild the actual motor itself. This is where you can actually upgrade the blower. They all have the same basic fins and blades. But a motor that has a higher amp and most important higher peak rpm WILL get you more air flow. Its not as if there is not plenty of room there for a larger motor you just may have to cut the housing back to fit and the reseal it which you can use metal HVAC tape and or epoxy. Also consider looking at where the INTAKE port for the air the blower is forcing into the vents comes from and look there for ways to decrease restrictions.
These are awesome trucks and unmolested ones not turned into mudders or rusted out are become much more rare every yr. Happy to offer you manty other very cool and worthwhile upgrades. Just let me know we can talk via email.
Tim, I have a 6.2 diesel in my truck and the center vents does not blow hard, if you have experienced this issue, could you provide me with some insight on resolving the issue? I am thinking replacing the vacuum pump would resolve the issue.........
It could be possible that the other blower motor runs off of a slightly different Resistor or Relay to utilize whatever difference there is. If the amount of voltage, current draw and the fan design is exactly the same there's no reason to think you would somehow get more airflow. The motor would either need to have more current draw to spin faster or the fan blade design would need to be a different style to produce more airflow.
That could be true, you're correct.
Were can I find the vacuum lines that goes from switch to the heater box
Have you checked at lmctruck.com ? Thank you for watching Timmothy!
I drilled out the grommet on the firewall and replaced all of those harder plastic type of vacuum that runs to the door blend actuators. 85 custom deluxe
I need to see you a/c line routing. I'm doing the same as you on the a/c
Man thank you so much for sharing this great video. 🙏🏼
What wires provide power 2 the AC compressor ??
lol, I thought this was a video from one of the car channels I subscribed to. But it was from your arcade channel. Here in europe you almost don;t see pickup trucks, too bad, I like them, especially these older ones.
"Here in Europe you almost don't see pickup trucks" ............... Europe sounds like hell :) J/K over here there are pickup trucks everywhere.... but we don't understand football :) Glad you liked the video!
Not to bad, we have cars like the renault twingo or peugeot 107 :( yuk. Most upsetting thing though, here in Spain I haven't found a decent place that has milkshakes, Prob the only place in europe where you cannot get a milkshake @ burgerking or mcdonalds. At BK and McD you can get a beer though with your menu, 2 bad no unlimited refills :S
I wouldn't be caught DEAD in one of those two cars, lol. Tha'ts pretty cool about the beer, over here the Mcdonalds and Burger Kings all suck the service is really bad, when you go in everybody acts like they hate their job and don't even speak.
It’s possible that one for 94 Motor that had a different No. could possibly run at a higher speed than on the C10.
The difference is probably because of the plugin, different location or different type of plugin. The blower wheel could be different, number of blades, shape, ect. Check on a blower motor/fan for a van, they have a larger area to cool than a truck cab does.
Nice truck
Is there anyway you can show me where the vacuum lines from that bowl go to?
Great video! Had the same problem.
Thanks Jim, glad it helped!
Where did you get your relay connectors I can't find any with the same color wires? Also do you have a video on A/c selector switch?
I just pulled my heater box out of my 86 K2500 to replace the heater core. Now just need to get the thing back in, get a few other odd n' end stuff taken care of on the truck, then it's back on the road finally in a long time to do some fuel mileage testing with the current Q-Jet then switch to a spare Q-Jet after a few tanks of fuel. Also get her into the body shop to burn in some patch panels then turn around and more or less do it all over again with my 85 C30 dually.
On a different note what's with the vacuum ball next to the blower fan? I've seen it on trucks with ESC equipped 305 and maybe 350 SBC, but I've never been able to figure out its purpose unless it's a backup to the main one for the cruise and vent controls.
I believe that stores vacuum when the engine is at full throttle. There is a one way valve near the firewall. I believe it is fed by a line tee-d off the transmission vacuum line
Can you drive a 1977 cheavy truck about a q mile with out the front fan
Yup just watch the temperature gauge and turn it off if you get up to 230 or so
was going to try this on my 85. my purple power wire has been cut when you put the new fan motor was that easy to install with the wire to the relay? plug and play?
Will this work for c10 with no factory ac just heater?
I'm not sure if the fan speeds are different or not...
Check your metal relay by the fan motor?^ the guy with no ac.
It's so strange to see the blower motor in the engine compartment. I'm either used to working on trucks so old that there's no AC to speak of, or cars where you stand on your head to get underneath the glovebox to find it.
FyberOptic I think they probably started this design in the early 70's, I had a 65 but can't remember where the blower motor was!
So which one is the correct fan I need on my 85? P140?
My k5 blazer make a noise when I turn on the heater but it warm it out really good any tips to fix the noise?
Where did you order the small hose from?
So did the pm129 fit in the same?
Yes it fit right in.
@@LyonsArcade alright, just picked one up. Thanks for the video man very helpful 👍
Did you install yourself the ac compressor? Im doing the same but i nees to know how much pag oil to add to the Ac compressor?
i get air on bottom and in vents no defrost
Bottom and in the vents means your defrost vent isn't opening up, there's a vacuum line that goes to it as well from your engine bay that hooks up to the manifold, if that's not hooked up or the line has a leak in it you won't get that vent to open up, it's a door in the box under the dash that sends the air all to the top.
@@LyonsArcade I will look into it Thank you
Awesome video !! Thanks
Thanks for watching, Juan!
Joe's Classic Video Games can you tell me everything you changed and do you know of any good deals (where you got them) or if a product is better than others? I'm trying to figure out how much this is going to cost! Thanks for the help!
What did you jam it open with
Joseph I don't even remember, if you take it open though you'll see what you need to do. There's no spring holding the door or anything, so anything will hold it open, I think I might have used a smashed up coke can!
Hahaha my 91 camaro had weak air flow to I bought new stuff to n passenger side floor got cold I thought it was water leak turn out there was a hole in that box I just plugged it up n now more air blowing
Very good!
Were did u get the aftermarket air intake
It was on the truck when I bought it, not sure where it came from.
Joe's Classic Video Games would this work on 1981 k5 Blazer? I would think so because they were all basically made the same!
What on earth are the odds of that. A fellow arcade enthusiast who also drives a squarebody 😁. Is this your regular daily or just a fun toy?
It's both :) Regular driver, and a fun toy, I've got an 86 GMC Sierra squarebody too that's having the motor rebuilt right now :)
Might be the blend doors need to be replaced
That blower motor cooling tube seems to be made out of Unobtanium these days.
Im not taking my American made fan motor out and replacing it w $20 Chinese one ...no way jose
I can understand that.
Who cares where it's made if it works better
Your fan was probally made in mexico. Most of the original parts on my 83 silverado up under the dash have mexico stamped on them.
Flow sounded stronger to me
Could be!
Chevy Ridin High Boy (Yo Gotti)
I remember my first Chevy 73'
I was 17 ridin wit a whole B
It was money green, fat boy triple gold
Tha 20's era, right when we stop ridin fo's
Lamb'd up ride, 30 inch rims glide
6 feet off tha ground make it hard fa you ta see inside
Its the same
DEBUNKED!!!
Good videos. Check out my C10 videos if you get a chance!
I will, love the C10s!