Awesome work! I have a '72 GMC factory A/C box I am looking to have restored. Do you still do this work? Would you be interested in restoring one for me? How do I get in touch with you?
You really do great work ! I can tell you take pride in doing a great job ! Not much of that anymore . Thank you for taking the time to share !! Be safe and God bless you and yours !!! Eddy
It looks like you did a really nice job on this box, I know that finding good parts for these old systems can be a chore and some of the aftermarket parts are junk and in most cases better off with original parts, I personally like to use copper-brass heater core which are getting hard to find and I know those poa valves are hard to get good ones, that box looked better than factory when you finished it and I do find that different brands fit better than others, i know that building this box must have taken a ton of time, I redid the ac system in my 82 c10 and I had hours in each side of the ac boxes and I just did a light clean up and detail, I didn't go anywhere near as far as you went so I would imagine you had weeks in doing this box, to think how many of these ac boxes got thrown away or destroyed by hotrodders over the years, it's pretty crazy.
I'm doing a 5.3 la swap on a 67c10 on my channel but my truck was missing the whole ac housing so removed the one from the suburban to install it on the c10. Thanks for the great video 👍
Beautiful job! Thats is gorgeous! Do those boxes have a drip hose? My 72's A/C is leaking inside the passenger floorboard? Its an oily water mix. Any ideas about a drip hose on those evaporator boxes if there is mine may be clogged. Any ideas?
Hi Benny, I hope I have found a source for my 1970 GMC factory air heater core/evaporator cover after an engine fire that melted the engine side cover. I would like to maintain its original style and not replace the system with after market offerings.
are you still in this business? Ive got a 72 Ac BOX that has the same issues as one in your video.. Can you give estimated cost to do same type of repair?
Hey there sir, I have a 1970 chevy c10 I am restoring. I don’t know what all I have or need still. So many people saying they have it or what not but really don’t. Can you help me out. I have pretty much most everything for my truck had to buy parts here and there for the a/c. Can you help me out.
My ‘72 Skylark convertible still has the original R12 AC system and believe it or not it was still working last time I tried it a couple of years ago. I’ve still got a little R12 around but I was wondering if there’s a good drop-in substitute available that doesn’t require flushing out the original oil and changing to poly oil if I need to evacuate it to replace a seal or something. I don’t really want to convert it to 134a if I can avoid it (usually have the top down when I drive it anyway). BTW - that customer sounds like a belligerent mental case, there’s nothing you can do to please someone like that. You are a real gentleman and one helluva fine craftsman who truly knows what he is doing!
Quite a bit of people dont even bother to flush the system of the mineral oil when converting to 134a. Ester oil is compatible with both refrigerants if you just wanted to drain some of the mineral oil from the compressor and what's in the drier(you will want to at least replace the drier). You wil also want to recalibrate your poa valve. As far as a cheap substitute for r12, look up R152a. It's commonly used as a duster in aerosol cans. There are write ups on it online as well as TH-cam videos.
I’d also like to know if you’re still restoring these, I have a complete unit from a 72 I’d like restored. I tried calling the number on your Facebook page but can not get ahold of you.
Nice job Benny! I just hope the customer's truck looks about as good as the AC box! It's in Pennsylvania so I probably won't expect rust free lol Anyways, the box looks like it came out from the factory in 1972!
@@ClassicRideSociety Just read his comments. What a POS lowlife. Anyways, my hat's off to you for being cool, calm, and collected. Many people would've lost it real fast. Maybe we can ask Cowboy to crush his truck for us lol
I was wondering if the customer wanted it original style with a POA valve. A system with a CCOT set up would get rid of soo much hardware. The plate style evaporators where made on a rack, as the Harrison tech would stack these together placing a flux coat ring of solder on each plate. The rack was lowered into a heated salt bath to melt and seal the assembly together. First in cars, then trucks, they placed a clip-on ground jumper from the heater core to ground. Coolant flow would build a transient voltage that like galvanic action, corroded the brass heater core. I added one on every heater core that I serviced without one. You can check with a digital multi meter with positive in the coolant while the cap is off and ground. You can get over 1.0 volt. Make sure to add a cable from the back of the alternator to the battery as this is where negative is produced. Painted parts cause resistance that if running, you can see a voltage drop from the battery negative to rear end housing of the alternator. If you are shipping these out, I would include a simple check list in the box. There are lots of voltage drop videos and makes no difference on meter leads, it will just read (-) if backwards with same reading. Same with A/C voltage from alternator if a diode is going bad. 0.01-0.30 volts A/C at 2K RPM is standard, but I like it lower. Imports are hardly ever above 0.19 at alternator. Cut that by 1/3rd is measurement is done at the battery. It acts as a capacitor. Coolant movement is like helicopters blades cutting the air. They ground the helicopter if performing a hover-hook and have ground leads from the frame to the skids. They produce 1,000 volts with little amps which is 50 volts more than a GM “A-6” compressor clutch shut off. A 2 watt 1N007 in forward biased. Good video! ASE Master Tech since 1978 - Retired
You know, youre the first guy to not be happy with my work. And here I thought youd like the fact that I installed all factory correct parts. Cant please them all I guess. But please tell me what part did I not use that was not correct? All are aside from the evap that you provided, and the the vacuum canister that was no good. If the quality of my work if not up your liking then how bout this. Send it back. I'll give you a full refund and I'll throw in one of my old AC boxes that is in comparable shape to yours when it arrived. You'll get your evap back and whatever else I didn't use. As far as the time, yep you got me there. I am a one band band and this year has had its issues. But that's not your concern.
Classic Ride Society what a dumb reply. I need it for my truck. I sent you the parts I needed in my truck but you put the old stuff I took off of it. Now I have to buy the parts again because you don’t listen.
@@marktal4719 please tell me what parts you are having to buy again. The only "old" parts are the Frigidaire valves which have been rebuilt and the vacuum canister.
Awesome work! I have a '72 GMC factory A/C box I am looking to have restored. Do you still do this work? Would you be interested in restoring one for me? How do I get in touch with you?
You really do great work ! I can tell you take pride in doing a great job ! Not much of that anymore . Thank you for taking the time to share !! Be safe and God bless you and yours !!! Eddy
Just wanted to let you know the customer wasn't happy. You can read his comments
Are you still rebuilding evap units? I have 1969 chevy c10
Was reading the comments i feel so sorry u are having to deal with this guy. U do great work. If somone does great work i dont mind the extra wait.
Great job on this !!! I’d like more info on having a box restored please.
It looks like you did a really nice job on this box, I know that finding good parts for these old systems can be a chore and some of the aftermarket parts are junk and in most cases better off with original parts, I personally like to use copper-brass heater core which are getting hard to find and I know those poa valves are hard to get good ones, that box looked better than factory when you finished it and I do find that different brands fit better than others, i know that building this box must have taken a ton of time, I redid the ac system in my 82 c10 and I had hours in each side of the ac boxes and I just did a light clean up and detail, I didn't go anywhere near as far as you went so I would imagine you had weeks in doing this box, to think how many of these ac boxes got thrown away or destroyed by hotrodders over the years, it's pretty crazy.
Can the POA Valve be rebuilt? or shhould I buy a new one same goes for the expansion valve.....Thank you
They can be rebuilt.
I'm doing a 5.3 la swap on a 67c10 on my channel but my truck was missing the whole ac housing so removed the one from the suburban to install it on the c10. Thanks for the great video 👍
Needing some AC Resto work done...
Beautiful job! Thats is gorgeous! Do those boxes have a drip hose? My 72's A/C is leaking inside the passenger floorboard? Its an oily water mix. Any ideas about a drip hose on those evaporator boxes if there is mine may be clogged. Any ideas?
Great work. Im working on a 68. i need to know if you can restore my AC unit.
Are you still doing this? Restoring my 69 gmc short bed . I have all my ac parts . What’s the next step?
I would like to ask some questions Chevy S10 Evac install
@@astonsamms7832 ive never worked on S10s. Only done stuff from the 60s and 70s
Do you still do this type of work
Looking for a complete unit for a 72 k20 . Tried searching on Facebook but couldn’t find you. You still selling these?
Hi Benny, I hope I have found a source for my 1970 GMC factory air heater core/evaporator cover after an engine fire that melted the engine side cover. I would like to maintain its original style and not replace the system with after market offerings.
So, you're looking for a complete ac unit?
are you still in this business? Ive got a 72 Ac BOX that has the same issues as one in your video.. Can you give estimated cost to do same type of repair?
Hey there sir,
I have a 1970 chevy c10 I am restoring. I don’t know what all I have or need still. So many people saying they have it or what not but really don’t. Can you help me out. I have pretty much most everything for my truck had to buy parts here and there for the a/c. Can you help me out.
Dam Benny you do a good job on those a.c. box's 👍 hope u get paid a good price for your work cuz u do a good job on those
That was right around $500
Just wanted to let you know the customer wasn't happy. You can read his comments
@@ClassicRideSociety why wasn't he happy ???
Need some help on locating parts, can you assist?
What are you looking for
@@ClassicRideSociety Just noticed in your video it's called a back panel
My ‘72 Skylark convertible still has the original R12 AC system and believe it or not it was still working last time I tried it a couple of years ago. I’ve still got a little R12 around but I was wondering if there’s a good drop-in substitute available that doesn’t require flushing out the original oil and changing to poly oil if I need to evacuate it to replace a seal or something. I don’t really want to convert it to 134a if I can avoid it (usually have the top down when I drive it anyway).
BTW - that customer sounds like a belligerent mental case, there’s nothing you can do to please someone like that. You are a real gentleman and one helluva fine craftsman who truly knows what he is doing!
Quite a bit of people dont even bother to flush the system of the mineral oil when converting to 134a. Ester oil is compatible with both refrigerants if you just wanted to drain some of the mineral oil from the compressor and what's in the drier(you will want to at least replace the drier). You wil also want to recalibrate your poa valve. As far as a cheap substitute for r12, look up R152a. It's commonly used as a duster in aerosol cans. There are write ups on it online as well as TH-cam videos.
Hey Benny, are you still restoring these? How can I get ahold of you to get one done? Looks like you do some great work.
I am interested as well?
What do you charge for one of these? I have a 68 50th anniversary c10. I'm in San Antonio
These services still available?
you have. som. evp for. chevy nova 70??
Is a hole in the case repairable?
It can be. I've repaired holes in them. I use fiberglass mat/cloth, resin and a piece from another box formed to fit the hole
I need that exact one done in my 72 suburban. Can u pm pricing to me??
I’d also like to know if you’re still restoring these, I have a complete unit from a 72 I’d like restored. I tried calling the number on your Facebook page but can not get ahold of you.
She looks all ready to go in!!
She was ready to be installed minus the firewall gasket
How much does it. Cost for one
Very impressive and a well done job.
Just wanted to let you know the customer wasn't happy. You can read his comments
Where are you and are you still in business?
Benny, are you still restoring Air Conditioners for 1967-1972 c10/GMC trucks? If so, could you please contact me. Thanks.
Did you try to call me?
Nice job Benny! I just hope the customer's truck looks about as good as the AC box! It's in Pennsylvania so I probably won't expect rust free lol
Anyways, the box looks like it came out from the factory in 1972!
Just wanted to let you know the customer wasn't happy. You can read his comments
@@ClassicRideSociety Just read his comments. What a POS lowlife. Anyways, my hat's off to you for being cool, calm, and collected. Many people would've lost it real fast. Maybe we can ask Cowboy to crush his truck for us lol
YO VEAY NICE JOB MAN!!!!!
very lol
Looks rebuildable...
didnt see you restore anything. seen alot of talking and then put together and no assembly or anything?
I was wondering if the customer wanted it original style with a POA valve. A system with a CCOT set up would get rid of soo much hardware. The plate style evaporators where made on a rack, as the Harrison tech would stack these together placing a flux coat ring of solder on each plate. The rack was lowered into a heated salt bath to melt and seal the assembly together. First in cars, then trucks, they placed a clip-on ground jumper from the heater core to ground. Coolant flow would build a transient voltage that like galvanic action, corroded the brass heater core. I added one on every heater core that I serviced without one. You can check with a digital multi meter with positive in the coolant while the cap is off and ground. You can get over 1.0 volt. Make sure to add a cable from the back of the alternator to the battery as this is where negative is produced. Painted parts cause resistance that if running, you can see a voltage drop from the battery negative to rear end housing of the alternator. If you are shipping these out, I would include a simple check list in the box. There are lots of voltage drop videos and makes no difference on meter leads, it will just read (-) if backwards with same reading. Same with A/C voltage from alternator if a diode is going bad. 0.01-0.30 volts A/C at 2K RPM is standard, but I like it lower. Imports are hardly ever above 0.19 at alternator. Cut that by 1/3rd is measurement is done at the battery. It acts as a capacitor. Coolant movement is like helicopters blades cutting the air. They ground the helicopter if performing a hover-hook and have ground leads from the frame to the skids. They produce 1,000 volts with little amps which is 50 volts more than a GM “A-6” compressor clutch shut off. A 2 watt 1N007 in forward biased. Good video!
ASE Master Tech since 1978 - Retired
I ain't skipping no video! Lol
Just wanted to let you know the customer wasn't happy. You can read his comments
@@ClassicRideSociety What a customer huh? His loss
Quit telling me what to watch...hahahaha
Just wanted to let you know the customer wasn't happy. You can read his comments
@@ClassicRideSociety what...i was just joking around. Hope i didn't step on any toes. It was just jokes
Need to restore mi old 72 chevy c10
Also took 3 times longer then he said. Terrible terrible
This is a lesson well learned. From now on I will extend my turnaround time to cover any issues that may arise.
I do not recommend this guy. This is my unit. Not worth it. He didn’t use the correct parts. NOT HAPPY
You know, youre the first guy to not be happy with my work. And here I thought youd like the fact that I installed all factory correct parts. Cant please them all I guess. But please tell me what part did I not use that was not correct? All are aside from the evap that you provided, and the the vacuum canister that was no good. If the quality of my work if not up your liking then how bout this. Send it back. I'll give you a full refund and I'll throw in one of my old AC boxes that is in comparable shape to yours when it arrived. You'll get your evap back and whatever else I didn't use. As far as the time, yep you got me there. I am a one band band and this year has had its issues. But that's not your concern.
Just so you know I'm serious, you want your money back, send the unit back. I'll pay the shipping.
Classic Ride Society what a dumb reply. I need it for my truck. I sent you the parts I needed in my truck but you put the old stuff I took off of it. Now I have to buy the parts again because you don’t listen.
@@marktal4719 please tell me what parts you are having to buy again. The only "old" parts are the Frigidaire valves which have been rebuilt and the vacuum canister.
Matter of fact, just give me a call. 8133634769 if you want. Easier and quicker than TH-cam. I just wanna see if I can make this right
Hey Benny, nice work. I am not on FB; can I contact you through instagram?