Removing Cured Resin with Wood Glue?!?
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 9 ก.ย. 2022
- Can you clean up Cured Resin off of your Resin 3D Printer screen by using wood glue?! We are going to test this out and see how well this works!
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#3DPrinting #Saturn2 #8K - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
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Love these experimental ideas. A boiling hot sponge left on on my screen for about 5 to 10 minutes to soften and remove resin has always been my go to. Even with a full screen leak that's cured it will remove it all without issue in about 20 mins. The cured resin peels off easily, with a fingernail or plastic scraper.
Good tip, thanks
That's actually genius. I believe that any heating up should help a lot, because of thermal expansion of screen vs resin - forces can be huge is rate of expansion is different, leading to ungluing resing from screen.
I wonder if ouring way more resin on screen and curing it should also help. I mean a lot more: so that is would not crack but be removed in one piece. So maybe even with use of some cloth dipped in resin that should keep the resin in place.
Wouldn't that wear out the LCD due to thermal expansion and contraction?
@@Mad_Catter_ better than it being replaced?
The glue going onto the screen made me extremely uncomfortable. Thank you? for trying it so others don't.
hahaha you and me both.
The metal scraper made me clench-up.
Tip : Use the spreaders that auto body shops use for bondo when putting on screen protectors. It works perfect pushing out any air bubbles between screen and protector
You talking about all my air bubbles on my Mars 3 🤣😂 that right there is a solid tip!
those are the same spreaders we used at the tint shop to chase bubbles. they work great
@@UncleJessy can you do a video over replacing the vat fep sheet im having issues with it on the mars 3 all my prints seem to fail in the middle for some reason
In terms of screen protection, I use clear sticky back book protector film. Its insanely cheap, 25cm x 3m only costs around $5 and with it being made for books, its thin, clear, sticks on the screen and fairly easily peels off if you need to remove it. Sometimes glue is left behind, but IPA gets that off no problem. You can just cut it to size with scissors and away you go. Only downside is it doesn't protect against impact damage
Where do you purchase the book protector film?
I just use an extra vat fep. Tape it around the edges.
I love these videos! I love your energy and I think it's awesome that you show us projects that both succeed and fail. I was waiting for this video to come out to see if I should try this method of removing resin from my screen. I'll stick with good old fashioned elbow grease
Yeah, still no magic solution but love trying out these different techniques and seeing how well they work… or don’t 🤣😂
Literally the best way to remove resin is splash a tiny bit of IPA on, cover with paper towel and some clingfilm. Leave it for a day or so and it will wipe right off with a microfiber towel. NO SCRAPING!
Hot water and a sponge is the greatest, safest way I have found to remove cured resin. 10 minutes under the hot sponge, and an old credit card to scrape it off
Thank you so much I literally cannot find any other videos or references online about how to clean these screens
Informative! Thank you for your service and sacrificing some screens for science :)
Thanks for trying these kinds of things out for us. Sometimes replacing the LCD screen on the Saturn requires a firmware update since there are different firmware versions for each screen, and the replacement LCD might not match the original LCD version.
I recently had to order a new screen for my Photon Mono X because I was dumb and took an actual metal razor to the screen and scratched some holes in the film. Wish I had seen this sooner, and I also really appreciate you doing the science for others so that we don't have to!
we have found after many times having this happen that using Tub-O towels cleaning wipes. fold it to screen size and leave it on the screen overnight. we use the build plate as a weight to hold it. after sitting overnight any cured resin that was on the screen can easily be scraped away with a plastic razor blade.
Watched some of your videos but this one made me subscribe. I'm new to Resin and got resin on my screen so this is helpful and your other video on IPA to clean it off. Also like your Harbor Freight videos.
Thank you! I'm still new and would have been gullible enough to try this. :)
You don't need a plastic scrapper, at least for the Elegoo Mars 2 stock screen. I use a sharp metal one, and it can look scary, but as long as it's lying flat and the screen is soaked with alcohol, it will take out the resin effortless with absolutely no damage. The glass is hard enough to resist it. Even if there were microscopic scratches that I can't see and may build up in the long term, you will probably replace the screen long before it affects your prints, as the screen will eventually be damaged by the UV light no matter what.
Thank you so muchhh
I have heard people suggest using alcohol based gel hand sanitiser to break down cured resin on screens as it stays where you put it and can be left for some time to allow it to break down the resin a bit before manually scraping/cleaning the screen.
The prop community uses wood glue on acrylic to make it look like old fashion glass
Oh thats fantastic! going to do some more digging. Really liking how clear and flexible it is
@@UncleJessy I was wondering about alcohol inks or mica powders as well.
thanks for testing for us
As someone having his first issue with resin on my screen, thank you very much for testing this out before I jumped on this "fix" lol
I’d love to know if the glue became brittle after curing longer. So many ideas running through my head now. Thank you for posting this so others can “hopefully” see it and not ruin their printer.
Interesting regarding the glues! Glad to see it KINDA worked with the Gorilla, but you would definitely need to get a good bond between the materials!
I agree thanks for trying it out definitely stick with elbow grease
Thanks for taking one for "the team" and science!! 😁
I had that happen to me early on in my 3D printing journey. All of my resin printers now have a screen protector. Keep in mind that some resin 3D printers have the UV filter on top of the glass and "scrapping" at the stuck on resin will more than likely remove the filter as well. Just take the L, learn from the tragedy and order a new screen. As always Jessy you are a freaking boss, thank you!
Hi, my always working go-to when the fep film breaks, is: Aceton. I soak a paper towel with simple aceton, keep it wet on the Spot of cured resin. then it gets soft after approx 10-15min and will easily peel. a plastic spatula is a must.
Does the acetone not cloud the polarizing film on top of the screen?
@@JeffroDH Hi, not noticed any cloudyness yet. (so far, 5 broken fep's with cured resin later. pure aceton, not a nail polish remover was used for my endeavours). It's my go-to until i find something better
You should do a resin printer tier list!! Would be amazing to know your list!
love the mars 3
One way ive used to clean off resin that has worked no problems. Get a sponge set it on the lcd then pour a small amount of hot water into the sponge let it sit 5-10 minutes pick up the sponge an use your plastic scrapper to easily remove the resin. You dont need alot of water just enough to wet the sponge.
Not sure if this has been mentioned, but I use clear packing tape to clean dried resin off my screen. Clean up and liquid resin still in the screen, run a vat clean cycle, clean again with IPA and tissue then apply the tape and pull. It’s like waxing a hair leg, only less painful and more soothing.
Yeah just finished the vid.. I was skeptical too.
I'll stick with IPA and the plastic razor blades.
Great experiment!!
There are simple wood glues on water basis and there are express wood glues with solvents. Perhaps these solvents, or a very specific one, are actually doing something against the resin.
Also if have water resistant wood glue, that's also speciality that might make a difference.
The matrix test cards are amazing for scrapping bits of cured resin off the screen! I couldn't find anything soft but strong enough then had a couple of non cured test cards laying in front of me they worked just like the plastic razors and a tad of water like a drop and I mean a droplet then scrape it's cot a burst fep resin completely off my screen with no damage to the screen Protector well impressed lol
im reallllly new to printing, had my creality halot for a week and pierced the fep... tried the tape fix and have a print going now to test, next is actually changing the fep. question though would that gorrilla woodglue work for making your own "fep sheets" ?
i read the title, i had to come! this is mind blowing!
If you hadn't made this video, I probably would have tried it.
I use a very similar method to remove dried acrylic paint from my palett - with excellent results.
So, I would have been hoping that it would work the same.
I am wondering of the original version that you saw was with a water washable resin?
Thank you 🙏
So i have 2 week old Saturn S and of course got a hole in the FEP and resin on the screen on like Day 2. I used the 99% IPA/microfiber towel method and it really kinda ruined the polarized film. Was this the method to use BEFORE Elegoo started adding polarization? Now it seems the best way is extremely hot water on a sponge and then the plastic scraper.
Another thing you can use to clean the dry resin screen is N-Propanol, that does stink a lot, but it is very effective, it evaporates quickly, it does not leave any residue.
I just did a small test with a few silicones. Smooth-on oomoo 30 was actually somewhat helpful in removing resin using horizontal pressure. I have some urethane epoxy and foam rubber still to test. I will post the results here.
Silicone might work. Maybe one of the thicker tin activated ones.
I work with silicone a lot, the only thing that stuff sticks to is itself. 😞😞
Titebond II is excellent for cleaning vinyl records. The glue is PVA whereas the records (NOT 78s) are PVC. They are chemically similar to the point that they won't bond to each other. Spread a thin layer of Titebond on your record, getting it into the grooves. Let dry and peel it like a face mask. It'll remove dust, lint, dirt, grease, mold, etc. Great for restoring your vinyl back to a pristine condition (just be sure to rinse the record off with distilled water to eliminate the static charge.)
What worked for me was just using the plastic spatula + a bit of IPA. Make a small puddle of IPA on the screen, then when its still on there use the plastic scraper/spatula thing to scrape off the resin. Worked wonders.
Wood worker here, eventually the glues will harden up and become significantly more brittle. While the will have a certain amount of mechanical give, depending on brand they will all become significantly more crunchy as they lose more moisture and polymerization continues. Would a coating of PTFE spray on the screen last long enough to prevent adhesion if some resin tries to cure on it? While I have a screen protector, a spray of PTFE would have better light transmission properties I would think. I was also thinking of a coat of paste wax on the screen and the top of the build plate to assist in resin rolling off may be useful.
The problem with the "Teflon" sprays is that they are simply light carrier oil with tiny particles of PTFE. The PTFE doesn't dissolve into the solution as far as I know.
putting fresh resin on the cured resin softens the cured resin and makes it easier to remove
I cover my collectible LP’s in a layer of TB II sometimes to remove deep dirt and dust. Peels off vinyl like butter. Records sound new afterwards.
What is "TB II"? And how does it work?
@@Fredster9984 I think he means Tightbond II - the wood glue.
Those plastic razor blades are so useful. I have one at every printer!
Well, I won't be trying that. Thanks for the demo.
Wish I would have known about those plastic razor scrapers before I tried using a metal one and ripping that plastic layer over the screen on my Mars 2 Pro. I guess I have to replace the whole screen now? I can't get that plastic protector separate?
Dude! Blew my mind with how Titebond II cures like that! If you're shooting to make a visor out of it, I wonder how degassing it in a vacuum chamber before pour would affect it.
I was also wondering about pressure pot on a silicone mat. Maybe even put alcohol ink or mica powders in it 🤔🤔
Hey Uncle Jessy, nice video, thank you for testing this.
I just saw a Video in German, were someone was cleaning his Elegoo Mars 2 with WD40! Elegoo Germany did recommend this.
What would you think, would this method although clean my Sonic Mini 8K?
best regards and keep going on with your videos, I love them!
the level of anxiety i experienced while I watched this was over 9000 lmao!
Great video . You have please make a video how to update these machine
I have an idea. When you have a failed print in the vat you use leftover supports and cure then pull. Can you test that method but with resin on the screen?
To remove cured resin from LCD you can use remover for cured cyanoacrylate adhesive, wait about 30 secs, a wipe it with alco
I have found for an added level of protection when using the plastic razors, I file/sand the corners of the blade into a curve. This way if I am an idiot and stab the FEP or screen with the outside edge of the blade, no harm.
Have you tried Denys Wang's approach of applying alcohol, rubbing it in, then using tape to remove it?
Try an Acrylic glue, it stays pretty soft and flexible, I use it for table top hobby terrain.
Have you tried giving it a blast with a freezing spray? Might make it contract enough to let go.
Hi Uncle Jesse, Do you think it is a good idea to spray dry PTFE on the screen to protect it, for easier removal incase resin get on the screen?
might cause problems because the ptfe might create a better seal around the fep so the fep might not fpex like its supposed to
When I got a resin leak that went UNDER the LCD and adhered it onto the piece of plexiglass that goes under it, I put the LCD with the plexi in the resin vat, filled it with IPA and put it on the buildplate of my FDM printer set to 60 degrees Celsius. It did separate, with almost all the resin staying on the plexi, but the plexi cracked. Thankfully it's cheap to order a laser-cut plexiglass RECTANGLE. Next time use warm water I guess.
I would think if you heated the glue after it hardens using either the light of the printer or an external heat source should make the glue malleable, also possible the glue from a glue gun might work better as it has crappy adhesive capacity once it has been heated... But interesting to see
I just used a disposable metal razor blade for windows on my printer screen and it was just fine and may I add this blade had been used for cleaning windows for like 2 years and at times it had been heated with a blow torch to melt cut plastic prior all I am saying is I used a very old hevaly used blade to clean my my 3D printer and I was fine but then I have a lot of practice cleaning glass with razor blades like 6 years of it
Would it be possible to use like a polishing abrasive to get it off? maybe super high grit sandpaper. if theframe is perfectly level then couldnt it work, maybe adding layeror two of tape? just some wild thoughts...... but it should be a requirement to everyone to use a dang screen protecter anyway, great videos as always brother
I've used a car headlight repair kit for damage to a plastic computer screen. It looks OK, but it's not flat any more. This is probably the type of polishing/abrasive you'd want if you try. Just got resin on my screen, hence the comment a year later. Alcohol and elbow grease didn't get the last little chunk. I think I'll try acetone, but upgrade to a bigger 9" machine before sandpaper/polishing. Right now I'm seeing if the layer is thin enough that it prints anyway or over cures the remaining chunk so I can scrape it off easier.
when people ask why youndont believe everything on reddit show them this video 😂😂😂 Thanks Uncle Jesse!
What if you laid a bead of clay or putty of some sort around the resin patch and filled it with ipa and covered it with plastic wrap, let it soak over night?
From what I can tell, the goal of using the glue is to get it all as one piece that you can pull up at once? If that's the case why not just do as you did in the middle and cover the whole screen in cured resin so its all one part you can then scrape off. I think its probably a waste of material and not any better than the normal method of IPA and scraper, but it would probably achieve the effect that the wood glue was aiming for.
Jessy what about rain x something to try as a pretreatment. They still sell it in a squeeze bottle.
I had a pin hole or something and lots of resin hardened on the screen. I took a sponge and soaked it in IPA and left it for a few hours. HOWEVER, when I took the plastic scraper to the resin it lifted but also pulled up the black polarized sheet too. I ordered a new sheet, but my printer continues just to print solid square blocks now.
When installing the polarizer film, you have to orient it correctly. TH-cam videos exist. Also, not all films are created equal. You need a fairly high-quality polarizer.
Uncle Jessy, please make a video about how to clean the entire printer. I'm talking FEP, Vat, build plate, work area, my area is a sticky mess and I don't know what to doa!!
Doesn't adding screen protector mean you need to up your exposure time?
That woman that suggested the wood-glue solution should be in jail
How much pressure do you use with the plastic scrapper?
A lot. It may scratch the screen slightly, but hopefully it won't damage the prints. Any less and it won't chip off.
sorry, i'm new and i wanted to know where i could ask for a custom project of a figure
I don't have resin printer but i would use hot gun or hair dryer to warm up resin to make it easier to remove. Probably wouldn't use IPA while heating up resin.
Re cosplay comment: Titebond 2 is mostly Aliphatic Resin, which scale modelers use to make windows. Unfortunately, this particular version is dyed.
How about wiping down the screen with some (mild) oil and then removing most of it BEFORE (!) the first print. I'd think that this would not interfere with the UV light but would make the removal of any cured resin very easy. Maybe?
Try it and let us know!
Wood/elmers glue is an old trick for cleaning vinyl records but resin really doesn't seem like it's porous or textured enough for the glue to grip
Thanks for testing this for us, so that we can avoid it. I only have one precious printer (Mars 2 Pro), and can't afford another. Love your videos. Can we call you "Unc"?
and put ptfe lubricant on the screen as protection?
I’ve never tried this, but strictly from a chemical standpoint a substance like acetones, MEK or brake fluid should be able to dissolve the resin and wipe right off. MEK has a flashpoint of 100° should be used with Great call care an in a well ventilated area and rags should be stored in a fireproof trashcan and of course acetone and brake fluid very similar handing. You can weld just about any kind of plastic with MEK hardware stores sell it in a very diluted version. This is most likely the 1st to 3rd most dangerous chemical that the hardware store sell and is the thinner that the car manufactures used to thin car paint with. Brake fluid would be the safest, but it will also leave and oil residue. That probably would be worse than the situation you’re trying to fix, but one wipe of MEK would remove it.
You said IPA and a plastic scraper would work. Well I poured the beer all over the printer and now it doesn't turn on!
please make a video how to make hollow prints heavy, instead of printing it solid please! thank you
Nice logic. If you can't directly scratch it how do you expect that a glue will peel it off? I thought that it's gonna disolve somehow.
New discovery: using glue to make visors for cosplay.
What about removing resin from the housing ?
Will Latex not work?
Humm... Now I am wondering, if you spray a thin layer of epoxy mould release or even a layer of oil and leave that on the screen if it would prevent leaked resin from sticking in the first place. 🤔
I'm guessing that someone had some "loose" resin on his screen and this worked perfectly for him. Had he just used some IPA it probably would have come off. The problem with a lot of "ideas" is that they try it once and it works so they post it all over social media in the hopes that it goes viral and they make millions as the SLA printer king.
Elegoo man doesn't exist, he won't hurt you.
Also Elegoo man 1:54
Moral of the story, just buy a screen protector for the screen.
Or better yet. Use the glue as a screen protector. That's possible, and you should definitely try it.
remember the wood glue is just PVA glue with cellulose in it. It will fall apart and dissolve if you get it wet.
Use a spare FEP sheet as a screen protector.
I dont see how the glue would bond to the resin to lift it off anyway. It was fun watching you try it though.
huh...weird...i was rummaging around and i had 5 resin printers just laying around as well!! LMAO
I had a 7hr print going on while I slept and when I woke up no any did the print fail but a shit ton of resin was dried up on the screen 🙃 all because the clear film on the tray has a tiny hole 🤦🏻♂️ scraped it off with a metal scraper and light weight fucked up my screen.
One possibility is that he lifted some edges with a razor and the put the glue down to get up under. Which makes sense, let it dry then lift it.
At least no one said put it in the freezer. 😆
hahaha ... who doesnt love resin on their frozen pizza?!
@@UncleJessy At this point I am sure Walmart has already tried it.
Basicly, you can change a polarizer filter on your screen. Yes, you need some knowlege but it is not so difficult.
Just use a razor blade window scraper. Obviously be careful to not scratch it, but it takes resin off SO easy.
Nice timing, this was needed. Plastic razor it is.