How to get the best Clear Resin 3D Prints
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 3 พ.ค. 2024
- Lets see how we can get the best results from our clear or translucent 3D Prints.
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"the difference between screwing around and science is writing it down" ~Adam Savage lol
And don't forget failure is always an option LOL
If he actually did say this hes not wrong. Modern firearm gunpowder was discovered from some chemist spilling acids 😂😂
sounds about right
i dont mean to be so off topic but does anybody know a method to log back into an instagram account..?
I was stupid lost the login password. I would appreciate any tricks you can offer me.
Back when I used to build aircraft model kits the trick to get a crystal clear canopy was to use Future Floor Polish on them. It's a clear, self leveling acrylic that worked really well. I imaging a clear gloss spray paint would be the same, but thought I would throw that out there.
Spray paints dry as the particles go through the air. It's not the same as dipping something into a gloss varnish.
I remember seeing someone letting his clear prints drip for longer than usual and then removing the supports and then curing without any cleaning and they stayed crystal clear
Thats what I do
@@timothyrios268 How many seconds per layer to cure would you recommend? I suspect I'm over-exposing my clear resin or something, it comes off so brown even from the plate.
@@kapalakaVery dependent on what resin and what printer you use. And even with 2 identical printers, one could have a stronger display than other. Especially if you're working with a monochrome screen.
My colleague said that if you're working with transparent resin, you'll even need to reduce the UV light strength of your display if you're using a monochrome screen, because it's too powerful and scatters the light too much in the clear resin.
@@kapalaka the recommended ammount the suppliers suggest. i don't do a lot of post uv curing as it increases brittleness, unless i need it to be stiff. If im doing minis very little uv curing, if you drop them the can break easier.
Most of my yellowing is from post uv curing. And the print time is different from opaque resins, learned that the hard way.
That’s what I do.
I also found sanding helps keep it clear. Problem is the pixel resolution leaves "stairs" on the print surfaces, small enought we can't see, but big enough to refract light and make it look not clear. The clear coat helps bridge these rough edges and let the light scatter less.
Try a super low layer height, like 0.01. It makes a big difference. And you really really need to tune in the clear stuff layer cure time, any bit of over exposure makes it harder to get it clear. I've done a lot of experimenting, and it's super tough to nail it lol.
Yeah I forgot to mention everything was a .05 but for sure could test that out at .01 and see. Glad to hear someone else has been monkeying around with this!
Great comment bro
@@UncleJessy Definitely late to the party for this video but it's definitely worth trying Zona paper! It's a ridiculously fine sandpaper process that brings almost mirror shine to epoxy resin stuff, so would be good to see it on photopolymer as well
Ooo starting to doable with clear resins gonna have to try this
I just got my first bottle of translucent resin so this video came out at the perfect time haha I'm excited to try these methods out!!
When I made my hourglass with Sirayatech Blu for one of my videos I brushed on Polycrylic. I found the spray version left little dots on the print from the droplets leaving a textured finish while brushing it on left it more glass like. I also did 2 coats. The tricky part is that if the print is hollow you have to get both sides. With a pourable coating you can just pour some inside the model, swish it around, then pour it out.
Bought myself a CR10S about 2 months ago, but watching your videos is REALLY making me want my 2nd printer to be a resin printer. Love the amount of time you spent on these tests and how thorough you were. Great content.
Oh man congrats on the CR10S! I hope you're printing some helmets on that beast. The CR-10 line continues to be one of my go to printers for FDM prints. But yeah... resin... its a slipper slope haha
@@UncleJessy but of course! Iron man helmet and a Predator mask as requested from my son. Between you 3DPN and FranklyBuilt, I had to pull the trigger on a printer haha
Resin printing is easy and great! Only one motor and movement axis compared to 3+extruder for filament. Easier to troubleshoot and get good quality prints! There's good uses for both but with resin printers so cheap I say go for it!
After curing, I stuff my prints in the oven, put it to around 60 degrees celcius and turn the oven on. By the time the oven hits 60, clear prints will have become more clear and any yellowing is pretty much undone completely.
Thanks so much, was just getting ready to set up a bunch of trials and then came across this. Saved a lot of time and resin. Thank you
PSA: Don’t buy IPA more concentrated than 70/30. It is extremely hygroscopic and rapidly absorbs H2O from the air. 70/30 is the equilibrium point, and that’s what you’ll end up with after a day (maybe shorter if it’s really humid) unless you keep it sealed in the bottle it came in.
For work, I investigated a case of cardiac catheter failures that was linked to this. The SOP called for 99% IPA applied to a wipe and used to clean the devices prior to lubricious coating. There were a handful of devices (not for human use at that point) which essentially fell apart in the final lot of OQ/PQ testing (really final tests period). Turns out that they’d keep the 99% IPA in a squeeze bottle with a small spout (maybe 1.5mm ID nozzle) that was never sealed. The amount used for each device was quite small, so the bottle would be filled every couple of weeks. That minuscule area exposed to the atmosphere, and the air sucked into the bottle after a squeeze, was enough for the IPA to absorb H2O and dilute down to 70%. Except that the bottle ran out at some point and fresh 99% IPA was put in and used on those 5 devices, which caused chemical stress cracking in the polymer shafts.
you could potential try dipping prints in Pledge Revive It Floor Gloss, its a clear high gloss acrylic finish that lots on molders uses on clear parts like airplane canopy's or even airbrushed as a lacquer for more slight satin finish, might work on 3d print
Cool. I was looking for a way to make a clear lense for a dial.
The red living armor is really cool ✨ and so is the mask 👹 I didn’t realize how much finesse was involved in clear prints!
Thanks! Yeah i'm slightly obsessed with that Living Armor statue from Loot-Studios
@@UncleJessy lol I actually just printed him him last night he is amazing looking also I’m new to resin printing I have yet to buy any clear resins yet
Instead of rustoleum clear, I recommend picking up a 2k clear. Rustoleum and other store brand aerosol, use air dry, so they lose shine as they cure. 2k is chemically cleared, The same we use on automotives, so the shine you see when you spray, is the shine you get when its cured.
KBS Diamond clear is a phenomenal clear if you want a wet look.
@@johnellis6911
I replied to op, in the event they don't see it, could I get your feed back to ensure I pulled up precisely the correct one(s)?
After the 1k/2k grit, try wet sanding with Zona Paper. Dice makers wet sand with Zona to give their masters a crystal clear finish.
Thanks for the tip! I'm going to look that up now!
Thanks for the tip! Ordering now!
Great video! Thanks for the help, I've been wondering about this for awhile!
I just paint on a thin layer of clear resin with a small brush and then cure. works like a charm. awesome channel btw good stuff.
i found when experimenting with anycubic standard green (translucent) resin that it is the alcohol that dull the shine of the resin. like it is attacking the surface of the resin. so my technique was to very quickly dunk the print in alcohol for a second and then thoroughly clean it in normal water. then let it dry and cure.
gave me amazing results that made the resin look just as transparent and colored as in the bottle
Those time lapses look so amazing
I found that recently cured prints tend to dull gloss clear coat. Waiting hours for the prints to fully off-gas and stabilize seems to yield better results. Also, try 2K clear coat, as I think the lack of solvents (catalytic curing), seems to help keep the prints clear.
Jesus that Oni mask looks insane !😍😍😍 absolutely jaw dropping💎👌💎
I have had great luck making parts near glass clear by using the Micromesh system, I have seen it used for resin pen making and once you get your prints up to 12,000 they're just gorgeous. Another quick and dirty method for a quick clear look is coating the print in mineral oil, this can make them attract dust but if you rub it in well it can also fill in the surface imperfections for a very clear finish
Dude I am so envious of you... I have been watching your videos for weeks trying to convince my woman we need a printer and as much as I amaze her with your videos, she keeps proving to me we can't afford it. I can't wait to see what the future holds... Maybe one day we will all be printing our homes and toys lol
AnyCubic Photon Mono for $200 brother and you cannot go wrong; it’s the best purchase I’ve made in a long, long time. I’m a newbie but, trust me, it ain’t hard to get amazing results - just be ready to do the whole ‘God please let her go to bed so I can have a few hours alone to play with my printer’ Lolol
Wow, Great test and retest!
Love that your share your expriences with all of us :-)
Thanks for checking it out and will be doing more followup as I'm sure there are still better ways to do this
Hey for the visor you can try zona paper to polish. It’s what we use to polish dice and it turns clear resin ice transparent.
I am very new to 3d printing. I watched this as an informational vid to projects I am working on. A few things crossed my mind while watching. One was the haze that envelopes headlight lenses and the cleaning there of with silicone oil sprays and cloth buffing. Another that crossed my mind was waxes. As someone mentioned floor polish for example. Being a zoids collector and some of them are of clear or translucent versions and a very old blog, by internet standards, was a product called "the treatment" applied to one of the guys clear parts zoids. The pics given by him were remarkable results. I will be trying the silicone method on a dome for a Mr. Freeze bust being made for a coworker's dream batman chess set I am working on for him. Hoping for the best.
I love ur videos and I got myself elegoo Mars 2 pro and mercury. I've been experimenting with the clear resin prints, but I've only done simple shapes like rupees from zelda series and oval gems.
I've gotten amazing result sanding with up to 7000 grit wet sanding paper and finishing off with flitz polish.
Another successful result i had was with clear uv resin used to pore casting in silicone molds. It can be little tricky but with a bit of practice, this yielded some really cool results. After a quick cure and some light sanding, clean off all the debris (it catches all the dust). Then carefully cover the surface with the clear uv resin, just enough to cover the surface evenly. It kind of felt like putting on nail polish. It also seems to naturally smooth out while its still wet. When it stops dripping, and just settles on the surface, I give it a good cure in the Mercury. At least till most of the tacky ness is gone.
Another thing is to do this one both surfaces of course. I do want to test out on visor like piece because I think I can get it super transparent.
I might also try letting it drip for longer in the Mars and skip the washing and cure it straight away.
Another great video. I still need to get a resin printer lol. Wanted to say, that red translucent is sharp! Wow, that just looks amazing with the color. That would look sweet in a rocky looking stand for a larger figure in a pose like reverse flash running or something!!
Thanks for making videos, I hope you keep making lots more, you make 3D printing fun again Uncle Jessy
Oh thank you so much for that comment! Really means a lot. I do try to make this as fun as I can while I share what I'm learning with everyone. Thanks for checking out my vidyas!
Man the Saturn is so great, I love it.
Such abadass little machine
If you don't mind me asking, where did you get your Saturn? They're always sold out or price gouged whenever I look.
Edit: nvm, I got one by pure chance while watching the amazon page.
Where did you get it?
the green resin is amazing
All this info is pure gold!
I've found that the more water (including water washable resins) contacts printed clear resins the cloudier your resulting part is. I've tried to print optical parts before and one successful technique was to clean a part made with water washable resin inside a ziplock filled with mineral oil. The resulting part is transparent to this day.
Sorry for the late question, but do you *clean* the part in the mineral oil, *cure* the part in the mineral oil, or both?
Thanks for the info!
@@retromodernart4426 Its been a while but I generally spent some time giving it the "shake n' bake" treatment to try and rinse off the resin inside the bag with mineral oil inside. I think I figured why not cure it in there too and just threw the whole bag into the uv curing box. Not to oversell it- it's not crystal clear optical lens material, but its very notably better than parts that get clouded by contacting water. Actually now that I'm thinking of it, I'm not sure if I skipped the alcohol step or not.
@@salukikev Very interesting, thanks!
great video, enjoy the experimenting in the videos
I'm printing off a space ship and was curious about the screen as a I use translucent resin. I assumed polishing the resin like normal resin... Looks like that will be best! Interesting video!
from my own personal experience with my original elegoo mars, you might be able to get slightly better results from cleaning but the biggest thing is to clean properly and use a clear coat spray after curing. while the resolution of my elegoo mars is great, its not quite good enough to make a smooth enough surface to really allow good light penetration. I normally just use IPA to clean and water to rinse, cure it, and afterwords i would apply the clear coat (uv blocking) to seal and give it less cloudy result. 2-3 even coats seems to do well for me, some models i can see being harder but I havent had much issues in my own limited experimenting.
So I work with resin pours and yes, you can get a super high polished finish with going higher grit sand paper, and some super fine cut polish. That Mando visor can be clear enough to wear and still see with relatively high clarity.
Hey Jessy!
There is one thing you forgot to test:
Dont clean at all, only cure.
That can make a bit more messy print regarding uncleaned resin hanging around - but I get totally translucent prints with that method! :)
Definitely going to try this, thanks!
I tried not cleaning and it still yellowed and just ended up looking really gross on the outside because of all the extra resin not washed off. It did however stop it from clouding as much
Cost is Loosing details.
I have used a 'headlight restoring kit' quite a while ago to refresh our yellowed and oxidised car headlight (plastic) glass. The kit came with fine sanding paper, some polishing paste and a drill mount little buffer. Using it, the headlights lost most of their yellowing, became nice and smooth, but also became opaque due the microscopic scratches which were now even and totally covered the 'glass'. Then the kit had a tube of 'UV protectant' which also smelled like paint. I painted it on as directed and voila! the headlights looked brand new again! Completely clear and transparent.
I would wager that this stuff, which is available on its own, would have the same effect on washed and cured resin prints. My observation is that the pores created by washing the prints stay there after curing - and get filled by this clear liquid, just like the tiny scratches on the headlights.
I will try the stuff shortly, you have inspired my curiosity, Uncle Jessy.
PS: the headlights stayed clear and transparent for a year so far. The car is always outside in the sun and weather.
Krylon Tripple Clear Glaze. I cure in water for just a minute or two. I also clean my stuff in Mean Green, I haven't used alcohol since it started getting difficult to get. Clear coat fills in the tiny scratches.
Some people have printed my Scarlet Witch tiara in translucent red and it looks incredible. Just a spray of 2K clear on top, and amazing result. I also did this for the Starlord Blasters cartridges, clear coating and polishing the inside and outside and the result is incredible.
Also, to prevent the oranging of the clear resins, I found out it was better to spray it with a UV resistant clear and then not cure it too much, but eventually if you polish it it will also get rid of the orange
And also, last but not least, really cool video man!
try using Pledge Floor polish on the miniatures! either airbushing it on, or even just dipping them in it and then shaking off the excess.
Hobby lobby or I’m sure Amazon had little 2 inch by 2 inch square sanding foam pads near the model cars and airbrush paints. Wet sad up to about 600 with plain sand paper but then use these pads. They are really fine grit. I think they go from 1000 grit to 12000 grit! It takes time but especially for the visor you would want total transparency.
You can also use a good quality clear coat and then do the sanding for the absolute best result! I was a hydro dipper and learned these techniques . I also made resin ink pens that spun on a lathe which made wet sanding way easier due to fast revolutions.
For the yellowing, you are going to want to use more of a violet or purple to neutralize it to a black/gray/smoke tint. However, since the yellow is not actually being removed, the print would look a touch darker then something that is clear like glass or water. The blue you were using looked too cool so that is why it still looked blue or green even opposed to a "darker" clear. You'll need to mix in a very small amount of red, maybe dip a toothpick to give a touch. A drop would likely be too much.
To make something clear, what I heard is painting resin with a very soft paint brush after curing partway, then curing the rest of the way would help a lot. You probably already know that because the layers are made by pixels which defuses light like frosted glass. Smoothing those pixels is what will make things clear, so filling the spaces the same material or material with the same light refraction properties. Clear coat probably does not match the refraction and so limits how clear you can get. However, you know for sure the resin it was printed from does match the refraction so it would work very well. I have even seen lens made using the resin painting method. (Be it, cheap lens quality, but hey good lenses require fine grinding.)
Would something like UV-resistant clear coat work better for long-term usage?
@@icesagex4 It will slow process. Yellowing occurs from oxygen before the resin is cured (setting a timer the first time you pop the top of your container) and once cured the yellowing comes mainly from heat and/or UV breaking down the polymer. A UV blocker will run interference and slow that breakdown but it's going to happen eventually, just pushing the end result of 3 months of UV exposure to 12 months for the same color. To further reduce yellowing you need a clear coat with UV blockers to uh.. block the UV and an additive called HALS (Hindered-Amine Light Stabilizers ) that handle the oxidation that causes yellowing. Unfortunately you are looking at automotive level clear coats or a specialized coating that probably require a 2 part mix or doesn't just come in a spray can. It adds something like 20% to the manufacturing cost for HALS on top of the UV blockers so if the manufacturer doesn't go out of their way to say they contain HALS or free radical inhibitors then it probably isn't in the clear coat.
@@joshuaanderson9079 Thanks for the info! I didn't know that!
I clean sand then "re dip" in resin hang to let any extra drip off then without touching any surface cure it under a light. this gives me an amazing high gloss clear finish.
I work with epoxy resin mold making and what I have found is that when you sand you need to take it up to 10,00 grit to get that smooth and clear finish. Also, I have not had a lot of luck with clear sprays, they turn yellow and are not as smooth as a resin top coat.
After curing try dipping it in Future floor wax. Might be labeled as Pledge Floor gloss. Dip it then look for bubbles or dust particles and if present, re-dip till there's none. Remove then let drip out/cure. It's acrylic based so can use Windex to clean up.
i use the clear coat varnish for paintings and drawings its quite thin and will generally provide uv protection
Great into. I just printed a clear beer light for work, but wasn't sure how to best clean it up
Loved the video! What kind of ink did you use?
Hey Unc J... try the tip someone in the comments said, quick dip in ipa then water. To add to that I suggest do not let it cure in any light until the clear coat is dry. I mean let the clear coat dry in the dark. Also try airbrushing a 2k polyurethane clear coat that is reduced thin enough to limit the amount of detail reduction. When all coats are dry , cure. ....lastly, please tell us what resins you used in this video. The greens I think it was 2 different ones are amazing, also that red figure after the clear was beautiful! I bet one of the green was syratech? Keep up the excellent work brother.
Have you been able to find additional baskets for the Elegoo Mercury? They would be useful to store IPA and stuff for cleaning
ive brushed some liquid resin over a model then cured it giving a nice shiny see through look
Hi, great video, thanks for sharing. Just curious about what kind of ink did you use? and I didn't understand about the clear step, is that the coating spray? Thank you though.
You could maybe try a headlight restoration kit for your flat surfaces it comes with a the high grit sanding pads for a drill so you can do a high speed sand/buff some include a clear coat for uv protection
Another issue is you are cleaning your prints almost right away and in doing so you are removing the thick goo that would dry shiny and clear. Just let them drip dry and be exposed to a little light in the room before washing and you'll have a more smooth surface to start with. With FDM printers the secret is extra pressure at the start by having the distance between the nozzle and the build plate more tight than usual and using a slow print speed moving nozzle slowly over the surface and using a little more heat and a lower fan speed and having ironing option on and just slightly over extruding maybe 2 or 3 percent and using extremely low layer heights so the pressure and heat smooshes the layers together. I've gotten printed rupies to to look completely clear.
A few things I've found:
- Automotive clearcoat is better
- Print solid
- If you're going to take your prints outside and don't want them to turn even more yellow, get yourself a car headlight restoration kit with UV protectant. It's usually kind of protectant that chemically bonds to plastic like a clearcoat that blocks UV light.
- If you print a flat-ish surface, you can do the old wetsand polish thing where you keep doubling your standpaper grit. Once you hit 4000 grit, go ahead and clear coat.
My resin crafting butt said "YES!" when I read the title, but apparently missed the "3D prints" part. 🤣 Still watched, cause I haven't spent nearly enough on resin and molds. Now I need to buy a 3D printer. 🤭
8 days ago I printed rc headlight lens on my channel with clear resin and sprayed clear coat without washing it, it came out amazing
How you prevent the print from being sticky? I find clear resin to be much more sticky if I don't clean with IPA. Did you cure after the clear coat?
Nice man! I forgot to mention that when I directly sprayed without cleaning my prints were super sticky after.
What sort of Clear Coat did you use?
@@UncleJessy I used automobile clear coat that comes with hardener and mixed 2 by 1 and 1 thinner, it looks like a glass, I got so may hate comments, telling me its resin molded lol
@@fusionor yes after print didn't wash it, just put it under sun light and then wet sanded it and clear coat it
Scale Addiction,,, love your videos
For white resin that has discolor or turned brown, I pop prints a bowl of water and microwave for 2 to 3 minutes. Brings 'em back to pure white. May work on clear resin as well. Gotta be careful because the heat does soften prints momentarily and could warp smaller items.
I like the Oni mask. I wonder if in the future you might try clear coating only parts of the model and keeping other parts more opaque for some contrast. Also I wonder if you could lightup something like the ONI mask with leds, kinda purge mask style
You could easily tape off parts and only clear coat the unmasked areas... and I'm right there with you about adding some LEDs to this prop ;)
if you are planning to do a lot of wet sanding I highly suggest getting Micromesh wet sanding products. In a pack for a good price you get reusable/washable pads that can go up to 12,000 grit. I use them when making acrylic pens for a perfect looking surface.
When sanding use a sanding sponge instead of just a sheet of paper and that'll make a lot of difference as it'll form around the object and won't miss as many sunken surfaces; skip over the rougher grades and just use the finer grades right away. Or use pumice on a sponge dipped in mineral oil or olive oil instead of a sanding sponge. Or just use a buffing machine set to the lowest speed and use a very soft loose sewn buffing wheel with white rouge used for silver and brass and plastic.
If you follow up on more sanding testing I would like to recommend also trying micro mesh pads and Zona Paper.
I just ordered some! Really excited to test that out!!
@@UncleJessy I've not had a chance to try more than 2 brands of print resin but I've found with Casting and Craft resin the harder the cured resin the better it will sand and polish. Not sure that has much effect on 3d prints as I don't know how much hardness varies. Looking forward to what you find out!
Don’t get the pads, they don’t hold up. Get the cloth backed micro-mesh. Much better product and very long lasting when wet sanding.
This is actually a really good idea as well
This option won’t work for things like minis, but for some simple geometry stuff you can also not clean the part. Just allowing it to drip the resin (in something like 40c or higher heat to keep the resin viscous). Potentially also spinning the part using a drill.
For real! If you have a better method... LEMMI KNOW! I want to try out some other options with another followup to this!
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The whole water curing thing a is a big fad, ive gone into detail in a discord I hang out in about why its just a waste of time. there is a couple videos kicking around on YT, one where the guy sights a research paper on "photo-initiator oxidation in photo polymer resin". But he completely misconstrues the results of the research paper. I am tempted to do a video on this subject over on my Resin engineer channel.
The best results you will get on clear is to test out the Anti-aliasing options in your slicer.
My best results Are from using a brush on gloss clear coat than a spray clear coat. I was using Elegoo's Water washable clear blue resin, which I would wash with Simple green, and then rinse with warm water as I removed the supports. I don't see any evidence of yellowing on my prints either. Though I used Elegoo's mercury for curing as well.
Can you try Monocure 3D ResinAway ? It's suppose to help keep prints clear.
Try wet sanding with Zona paper.
I have had EXCELLENT results after curing by spraying on Krylon Crystal Clear Glaze. I did a Terminator bust in Elegoo translucent green and sprayed it with the glaze and it was perfect.
Dude your channel is so informative, how do you squeeze so much content in the one video
Thanks I try. A lot and I mean a lot of editing 😬🤣
@@UncleJessy I don't doubt that lol
Hello! One question! Does Mr. Clean affect the sheen of the clear resin prints? I remember the video where you cleaned some prints with Mr. Clean, that´s why I´m asking, thanks and keep up the cool videos!
What I have found (because my family was in the abrasive machine business) is that figurines cane be run through a rock tumbler or a vibration tumbler. Use walnut, then go to #20 glass bead.
You've at that that point, wet sanding a detailed figure. Which does mean you might need to exaggerate your print a little, expecting abrasion.
A bit late to the video but I didn't see anyone else mention this... I find that IPA causes a lot of my issues with translucent prints, causing that cloudy/frosted look. Due to this, I wash with Mean Green (have never noticed an issue with color) in my ultrasonic cleaner, then cure in water for just a few minutes. In this process the water actually removes the stickiness, while if I air-cure them they remain sticky even when over-cured. Final step is to clear-coat with Krylon Crystal Clear, usually needs 2 coats. When printing in the colorless resin I usually don't cure for more than a minute or two before spraying them.
the mad scientist back at it again!!!
Great video. I'd be wary of clear coating before curing as a lot of clear coats are UV protective, so they will block the curing and leave your part under-cured
Great video... I wish I could get my hands on a saturn 😁
Hey man I’ve always wondered I never see a microphone in your videos is it sitting on the desk or do you have a trick for getting good audio? Love the videos, there super helpful especially this one. Can’t wait to try out what I learned when my resin gets delivered.
Hi Jessy, I'm looking into a Wash & Cure station but not sure which one is a good bang for buck. Now that the Plus version from anycubic is out in the wild, could you look into making a review for all of them? Maybe compared to a DIY station and then a final recommendation at the end based on your experience with each of them. This video is really helpful btw! I love the effort and edit that went into making this video! Awesome stuff
I clean, dip my prints in polycrylic, amd lightly blow off excess with compressed air. The polycrylic seems to have some uv protection because it took 2 years for one of my prints to yellow sitting on a window sill.
Do you have any recommendations on print settings as far as exposure times for clear/red/blue/green etc
With clear plastic I only ever put so much effort into it, but I read an article on removing scratches from model car windshields, aircraft canopies, etc., in which they detailed using multiple grades of wet sanding getting finer and finer, then rubbing with toothpaste, then finally coating it with FUTURE floor polish. You might give that a try and see what happens. The spray on clear coat seems to be skipping the toothpaste and FUTURE. Barring toothpaste, maybe some form of plastic polish. Google how to polish plastic to clarity. That should give you some ideas. Great vid.
Looks awesome! Just curious what size/dimensions did you print the menpo mask? Thanks!
I scale my masks to a 3D model of my head to make sure they fit
When I use Elegoo's ABS-like clear transparent resin I found I only needed to cure for 30 seconds or so in the Wash & Cure station. Any longer then that and it started turning yellowish. Was told by some folks after my first few prints were yellowish that was all the time needed because the light goes all the way through. Which made sense but I had not thought about it.
from my time working with plastic model kits, try a much higher grit paper. You start achieving a clear transparency after 2000 grit, and I have always taken it to 7000 for most, and in clear/untinted up to 10000 grit. You can buy polishing compound to get an even higher shine. REmember soft sanding is going to take away the hard edges and produce some soft corners. Sanding with a hard stick will get you a flatter area to see through. Also be careful with your clear sprays, some can do wonders, some can actually only add a dull shine. My experience is to stick with some Alclad II Klear Cote, or Automotive Clear Coats. If you can add some leveling compounds (a paint additive for modelling paints) can help get a good transparency.
Also, a good thing for removing support marks for clear parts is to do the same thing modellers do. Do some big supports, and grab a sharp pair of nippers and cut it with a little bit of the nub left. take your time and sand that nub down with a sand stick or cut it afterwards with some really shallow cutters. By tearing your supports off or cutting them right at the point of the part, you end up cracking it in a way that leaves a mark. You want to take as much stress off the cut as possible.
Rybonator has good results wet sanding with Zona polishing papers. Might be worth a try.
Someone on reddit did a test of applying heat to a yellowed/over-cured print. Would love to see a more detailed test of that technique.
Which resin did you use? The yellow neon one is cool!!
Great video, where can I get the file for the resin visor for the Mandalorian helmet?
You should look into zona paper for the visor. Dice makers use it to clean up their clear dice.
Autosol, brasso or silvo and other metal polishes or cut and polish works wonders on some clear plastics
I am so used to sanding PLA that sanding resin feels amazing. I actually love printing in ABS over PLA if I am going to be sanding the print just because ABS sands pretty nice compared to weird ole gummy PLA. The first time I took sandpaper to resin, I wont lie it gave me goosebumps seeing how easy it was. However I have to admit I haven't been using a mask while sanding mostly because I am am stupid and didn't even consider it.
I've found that dipping it in resin before curing gives me the best result. It gets rid of all those pixels refracting light weirdly and you can't get a smoother finish than that.
Any tips on how long that cure takes? I put a thin coat on a part just to test and it took forEEEVER in the cure station. Not sure what I'm doing wrong.
@@santiagoricoy1313 It should only take a few minutes. Depending on the resin, 2-5 minutes. Although I've had one that took 10 minutes to cure too. Sometimes they're stubborn
Can you do another video on using a vibratory polisher and the best medium to use.
I’ve wondered about adding UV brighteners and dyes to clear / translucent resin. I haven’t found a good source for them yet (that doesn’t come in a 50 gallon drum).
I'm currently sanding a counter top I did a resin drip on and the final touches involve polishes it from at least a 2000 grit wet sanded. Wondering if that process is the same for these prints? I got a couple I could try it on and test out!
I would like to know if you used car compound then a polish on a buffing Dremel it that would keep some of the detail on the models
I tried printing something flat on a wham bam plate and it awesome you can print very detailed figure without support the base
And no ruin it with spatula
Awesome right?! Love those whambam flexplates
What about trying the polishing techniques used for clearing up plastic lenses on car headlights, or toothpaste?
sand with 2000 wet r dry paper (add a drop of dish soap to the water to keep the sanded bits washing away) then clear coat again. you can then use a fine buffing compound (auto store) to really make it shine.
Acrylic polishing compound with a dremel buffing wheel, you would need to wet sand after clean and curing, crystal clear coat 2000 grit, then buff and polish.
have you tried just letting the parts drip the excess resin and cure it with out washing it? because the goopy layer is already molecularly smooth. clear coating just re-applies this go layer.
i have seen good results applying thinned UV resin with an air brush,
Just been doing some water washable and a long drain period on the build plate using a mount to tilt it in a diff direction half way through.
Rinse off in a water bucket while still on build plate and then carefully remove and try not to touch your item and handle by the supports. Allowed to air dry then in the UV using large tweezers to minimise damaging/roughing up the surface. Maybe where practicable adding a removable handle will help you not touch the item surface until its cured to help remove the supports without touching the item?
Not perfect but it's definitely better the less you touch the uncured surface.
Were you using deionized water for the water cure? Mine don't seem to haze as much with it. Shorter cure time perhaps? I'm also using a mix of pure ethyl and isopropyl (alcohol fireplace fuel).