Thanks for pointing this out. I originally marked it for deletion as it had reference to the Transmission Solenoids, but later revised that decision as it is needed to supply switched power to the PCM. If you have downloaded my LS Wiring diagram document, it is referenced on page 2 as PCM Blue Pins 19 and 75 going to the new fuse #2. I will correct the documentation and publish them. Thanks again. Mike
Hello sir. First these videos are simply excellent. I can’t find the c2 block chart you downloaded from lt1swap.com. Can reply a link please. I looked a few times but can’t find it.
I have an 05 silverado. I plan on doing something different than what other people are doing. Ultimate goal is to rebuild the L59 with a Holley terminator system, along with a tunnel ram intake using two of their faux fuel injection carbs. The biggest hurdle in planning has been trying to figure out how to convert from DBW to DBC. I am so glad to have found your channel and am thankful for the information you’re sharing
Awesome! That’s what’s cool about even these newer engines…. There is a wide range of customizations available for those that have unique needs. Cheers and have fun with your project.
i wanted to rebuild a 5.3 for a long time and have learning disabilities so reading the info with out seeing what is actually happening made any project i wanted to do impossible for me but through your videos ive learned exactly what i wanted to know so please dont change the way you make them and dont stop making them thank you for now i have the knowledge and videos to actually understand and more confidence and motivation to finally start a build ive thought and dreamed about for a long long time
Cory.... Many... Many thanks for your kind words and I greatly appreciate the feedback. I too get lost sometimes with written instructions and have always been a visual learner. I think that helps me understand the message that I need to be presenting and providing. I didn't realize that until you made me think through it. Surround yourself with resources (books, videos, local mechanics, friends) and Go For It. It is fun to learn and for me... very rewarding! Thank you Sir!!!!!!!!
Your videos are the best. I've been researching a 5.3 swap for months and I have never come across anything that has been as informative, detailed and well done as your videos. If I had seen these first it wouldn't need to watch or read anything else.
I liked how you had everything printed and organized in a binder. You should include that binder in a pdf so everyone can print them and rock one just like you! Glad i came across your videos. You got a new sub!
Glad you found me and are enjoying the series! I will be publishing some of the documentation that I create and will put links in the description area under the video. Cheers!
awesome vid i started my harness last night and boy let me tell ya i am nervous but i am taking it one step at a time and watching videos so keep them coming you really help me out dude
Sounds cool.... Dueling Harnesses! What's the RISK? If you take out a wire that you really need, you can always add it back. If you leave a wire that you don't need... just leave it! Doing some more work today and tomorrow. Hoping to get that unwanted connectors and wires removed. Cheers to you!
Thank you for the positive feedback. I hope it goes smoothly. I've researched it for about 3 months now and your videos and LS swap (which I found on your page) are the best I've seen.
These are great projects to share with our sons. Mine did not make it on video much during this video, but he was there with me during most of it. A great reason to spend time together. Cheers... Mike
If I'm going to take the time to figure it all out, I figure it wouldn't take much more time to record it! I greatly appreciate your comment! Thanks for watching.
Looking forward to your continuation! I'm about to start reworking my lm7 harness following your videos! Thank you for so much detail and explanation and showing it's not as terrifying as you one might think! I hope you continue with the project soon!
Thank you for the feedback! Uncovering the terrifying mystery was what I was trying to prove to myself as well as share with others. Glad you found it a resource to help with your project. Trying to carve out some time to get my swap vehicle to the point where I can drop my LM7 in and fire it up!!!! That will be a great day!!!!! Thanks... Mike!!!!
Just found your vids by accident, but i found them very informative. Maybe ill attempt my own ls swap in the near future, and ill definitely be re watching your vids. I like that you explain everything like we dont know what we are doing.... cuz i dont lol
Thank you Anthony! Your message is heart felt. I think things like this are often viewed as extremely difficult of beyond people's ability. I think we can simplify the effort and provide some insight so others can realize it's not that much of a mystery. THANK YOU!!!!
Nice work. Really helpful and you've given me the confidence to tackle the loom. I've been researching like mad since I first watched your videos in this series. I've been trying to understand the role of the two fans, as I plan on using the fans from the same donor car as the engine, and I remembered you talked of adding a wire in for a fan so I jumped back to your video to see if there was a hint on how they work. I'm left with a coupe of questions. When you're describing the Blue connector, at 13:51 you point out that on Pin 42 you need to add a wire back in to control (ground) the electric fan. That matches up with the wiring chart I have from LT1swap.com, identified as the Low Speed Cooling Fan Relay Control. This is where I am at the moment, trying to understand how the Low Speed fan works. What I'm trying to establish is, if you put that wire in at Pin 42 and attached it to the relay for the Low Speed fan, does this just mean the fan will run all the time? In your LS Wiring Harness diagram, Fan 1 Relay (B42, Low Speed fan) passes through your connector, but the Fan 2 Relay (R33, High Speed fan) does not. What is the thinking there? If you do have a video covering that, please point me in the right direction as I haven't found it. Again, really useful, and I'd like to thank you a lot for sharing. You're helping a lot of people!
For my implementation, my engine is going in an ole Jeep CJ7. It has a square radiator and I plan to run 1 fan and not two smaller ones. I think I will get better cooling that way. In my connector, I accommodated for a single wire fan control. The second wire, I kept, but it is buried in the loom until I decide I need it. It is my understanding that Fan1 and Fan2 are primarily triggered at different temperatures by the PCM. In my case, I will be running one Fan control wire to one Fan Relay which will control the fan. In your case where you plan to run 2 fans... you will need both Fan control wires and you will need 2 separate Fan Relays. Fan1 control wire will trigger Fan1 Relay and provide power to Fan1. Similarly for Fan2. You will be creating two separate circuits and each will be set to trigger at different temperatures in the PCM. Hope that helps.
So far its been a great series and will be very useful once I begin my 5.3L swap into my 2003 Jeep Wrangler going to continue following an gather all the info I can .
Your right on they're Never done! A tinkerer's playground. You can always but it in your cart for a future little "update"! Hope you decide to follow along!
I am really hoping that I will have some time tomorrow!!!! So go get your popcorn ready! I have been pulled several directions that past two weeks which has slowed my progress. Thank you Trey!
I also appreciate your nice comments. Thank you! When I can, I will always add FREE downloadable (PDF) versions of documentation that I create in the description section below the videos. BUT... You just made me think (thank you), I could very easily Scan this section of my Rowdy book and publish that as a PDF as a FREE download as well. It's not for sale... it belongs to the community!!!! I will have to add a cover page that explains that these are the parameters for my build. This would not negate the need to visit LT1Swap.com and educating yourself and pulling the appropriate docs for your situation. THANK YOU! THANK YOU!
Hello Mr. Rowdy, Was wondering if you still going to finish your wire harness. I've been waiting for you so I can finish my harness by watching you. Thank you.
tturner3535 Yes sir! I have the next episode complete except for the final segment. Planning to work on it tomorrow and should be able to upload tomorrow night. Thanks for watching.
The PCM Red/Blue connectors being removed as called "Connection Positive Assurance" or simply put, CPA's. Other names have been given to these by GM over the years, but still function as called. They hold the "Lift" pin in place so the connector can not back out once installed. You have done a decent job of explaining what you're doing. I only want to add the after years of dealership work, I purchased the J-Tools to remove and install. This harness is straight forward with "Slip-into-back-termials" while others are pull backward to seat. Save those terminals with the shorter wire that fit into the plastic connectors as somebody will need then of want them for project. Good video as always, "Like" & Subscribe...Then watch part 3.. P.S. I the PCM is mounted to where moisture can get to it, they make tiny rubber plugs that fill the holes left behind after some wiring it removed. I will try to get the part number soon.
The 4 wires that I am keeping form the C100 Connector are: 1) BRN/WHT - This is the Check Engine Light (Neg -), 2) DARK GREEN - This is the DATA circuit that will go to the ODB2 port, 3) TAN/WHT - This is the Oil Pressure Sensor, 4) WHT - This is the Engine Speed wire that will feed the Tach. I will have videos soon that will show how to wire both the ODB2 Connector and the Tach Circuit with the required diode. Does that help?
Two questions, the check engine light that you mark with green tape, come from some where along the harness or from PCM? and else am confuse because you are not gonna save C153 connector but you are saving Temperature Sensor and A Brown wire run from C153 connector to Temperature Sensor.
The Green Check Engine Light (MIL) wire comes from the PCM and will be routed to a newly installed OBD2 port in the older vehicle that this engine is being swapped into. I am keeping the Temperature Sensor.
great job .. its very helpfull .. Q/ if i want to do drive by wire stand alone harness the diffrent keeping pin 14, 15 thats all ? .. cus i have all the part for drive by wire
A little out of the scope of my project, but.... Your focus will be the extra sensors and control devices at the Throttle Body. Also make sure your PCM is setup for controlling all the items. I believe I saw somewhere that the PCMs are slightly different. Check with Channel: Sloppy Mechanics. He had a video once that I believe talked about this. You might be better off getting a PCM and Harness that is equipped for DBW.
UCanDoIt2 thanks for the reply.. could you send me your pinout sheet of the C2 connector , cuz in lt1swap.com the current one on there doesnt individually describe all the pink wires (ignition 1 voltage ) , my email : kwt535@gmail.com , thanks alot for your help
You crack me up Steve! I have googled for days looking for a Media Blast cabinet that accepts empties in the right glove hole.... they must not sell them here in the States!!! Cheers to you
I'm thinking that will be a good semi-permanent sealed solution. I see others using epoxy and don't think that is the way I want to go. It is either that or silicone. I have a small applicator that I could neatly apply some silicone. Just a thought. Thank you sir!
I actually like your idea of the Gasket Maker. I have a Craft Syringe that has a large opening that I had planned to use just to help keep it somewhat clean. I am looking for anything that will be pliable when applying, but then setup semi-soft. I may try loading one with GM and another with Silicone and see if I like either. If not, I will go with the Hot Glue! Cheers!
Where are the c100 152 and 153 connectors located on the car? I’m going to be pulling a 5.3 this weekend and want to know where to look so I can just detach them so I can pull the harness
CK_32 not really sure. This engine was already pulled when I picked it up from the salvage yard. All three connectors are located not far from the PCM.
Nice vids. I have been struggling with deciding which way to go on my build. I have a 1925 Dodge and was trying to decide if i want a traditional old school motor (318 - 340cid) or something modern like this. Although I would like to stay on brand and not do GM. Questions; A- how do you know which donor car to use? / B- I assume the procedure is the same for Mopar?
@UCanDoIt2 still a little confusing to me lol I’m trying to remove all the wires that I don’t need for my 1999 5.3 LS and T56 swap in my MCSS, if I’m using the original truck fuse and relay box do I just leave all the pink and orange wires on the connector? And exactly what all wires do I remove from the red PCM connector? I’m trying to do my wire harness using your video. Thanks much appreciated
@UCanDoIt2 I think I got it. Using your chart pictures in your Dropbox you left in the description, I remove all the wires that’s highlighted in yellow on both Red connector and blue connector then remove the pink wires that goes to those sensor connectors that needs 12 volts that’s not needed??? I’m using the original fuse and relay box
It sounds like you do have it worked out. If using the original fuse box.... It will be supplying power (Pink and Red) to the PCM. You would want to remove any Pink or Red Wire from that block that are not being used in your new configuration so that they do not short-out down the road.
@UCanDoIt2 On video 4 you mentioned a wire on pin 42 on the blue connector, on my harness it doesn’t have a wire coming out of it. It’s original 1999 5.3 harness Any idea?
On my PCM Blue connector pin 42 was also empty. It is for the Fan Control Relay. The 5.3 engines mostly came with mechanical fans, so Pin 42 was not used. Because I am going to be running an Electrical Fan, I am plugging back into the PCM on that pin and will program that for the first Fan Control Relay.
Hello! i bought an aftermarket wiring harness w/ fuse block. this Harness come with gauges wires so i would like to know if are those wires the same that you are saving in your harness?
The gauge wires that I work with in this series are a part (within) the original Engine Harness. Sounds like you also have the Dash Harness that actually connects to the gauges. That harness was not covered in this series. I do not plan to cover that as I will be integrating the Old Gauges that come with the vehicle that the engine is being swapped into. I will be integrating into that Dash Harness.
hello once again! thanks for answer me so i have chevy 1952 and am using original gauge as an tach. Can i use either way the tach wire (R10) that your diagram show or the wire that come from an aftermarket fuse block? else this fuse block come with wires for a Fan, Fuel Pump, Gauges. another question is what wire are you using to start the engine (engine ignition)?
Your 1952 Tach needs a Signal Wire. Not a Power wire. I can't think of any wire coming from the actual Fuse Block (power) that would involve the Tach. The aftermarket Harness should have a wire labeled Tach which would be the signal wire. Because there are different configurations for this, you should really consult the manufacturer of the Harness to best understand how they intended you to connect it.
@@UCanDoIt2Mike sorry, yes you right that was a misunderstanding so what is better way to connect the R10 wire for tach signal that come from the pcm in your configuration or the signal wire come from aftermarket fuse block? and i have an electric fun with a single fun system . can you tell me what is the purpose of FAN 1-PPL and FAN 2 RELAY. In your diagram. i really appreciate your help thanks
Both Fan 1 and Fan 2 are to be connected to a Relay. These are relay ground trigger wires. When a good ground (-) connection is provided by these wires tot he relay... the relay will activate and provide Power 12V+ through a separately provided and fuse protected circuit.
Nice video you taking your time so us average people can follow. I'm thinking about doing a stand alone harness but around my area I can not find any place that has a harness. Do you have any places that I can buy a harness from. Once again Great Job.
Thank you!!!! I have one suggest for you since it sounds like you do not have a local resource for parts. Try www.car-parts.com. There are a lot of Savage Yards that list their inventory there. It would be beneficial to acquire a harness that matches your engine (assuming that you already have that), but that is not required (don't get hung up on that). Search the site I listed either for harness, or vehicles that contain a similar engine. Then you can do one of two things: 1) call the location that has the largest inventory and see if they will sell/ship you one, 2) identify yards that are close to you and go visit them. Best of luck and thanks for watching.
Hello! hey i have the same engine and wiring harness so my question is What is the purpose of removing those wires? it is possible to install this wiring harness as it comes original without removing or deleting any wire from pcm? am gonna install it on a chevy 1952 pick up.
Hi! as you marked E2 and F2 to delete but you notice u will need it so now you will save it to power the pcm. Am asking to change this information in the chart because i already download. Another question, I have an aftermarket wiring harness and it comes with a FUEL PUMP wire. is this wire the same as the fuel pump wire you're saving?
I have updated Chart to reflect keeping the E2 and F2 Wires. If you download another copy, it will reflect the changes. The Fuel Pump wire of your aftermarket harness runs from the Aftermarket Fuse block to the Fuel Pump. The Fuel Pump wire in my diagram (Yellow wire in my diagram). This yellow wire either (1) needs to replace the aftermarket wire and run all the way to the fuel pump, OR (2) be connected to the aftermarket wire (especially if it is already included in a bundle of wires heading to the rear of the vehicle). The Yellow wire and the Aftermarket Wire labeled Fuel Pump are trying to do the same thing.
So on the red connector from what it looks like from your sheet you left pin #50 (vehicle speed output circuit 4k) but I didn't see you wire that anywhere, did you remove it? I don't see a use for it for me. Motors going into a rock buggy.
That wire is used to feed the Speedo of the donor vehicle. It is used with electronic Speedos and my Swap vehicle does not have. I believe I later terminated that wire in my harness as I cannot use it. Hope that helps!!!! Mike
@@UCanDoIt2Mike thank you so much for the quick response!! An great job with the videos! Your videos guided me right through it with no issues. Was very easy!!!
Thank you for these great videos, I paid a guy to do the deletes but lost the final labeling for the wires that are under the hood and inside the cabin. Hoping your videos will help. (He is not returning my calls for a different reason, or I could just call him)
hello once again! am going to save all transmission wires cause my trans is automatic 4L60E so my question is VSS (vehicle speed sensor) is part of the trans wires and i need to keep it and fuse it or delete it? Does an automatic transmission works with no VSS?
Great vids! They will be very helpful for my project. I'll have to be careful though and not remove wires I need for the transmission. Also what year is your engine/harness?
By any changes did you keep TCC break switch on C-100 connector and what is the wire for? Second in a video it shows that you kept Tech wire which wire is that what connector?
Well.... You have me stumped. My notes show that I did not delete B33 TCC (Torque Converter Clutch), however, there would not have been a reason for me to keep it as I will be running a Manual Transmission. The reason that I am stumped, is that if I did not de-pin it, which connector in the harness is it going to. Sorry, but I am not sure!
My engine is being swapped into a 1979 Jeep CJ7. (1) My vehicle Speedo is run through a mechanical cable off the Transfer Case, so nothing from the PCM will be involved. (2) I will be using a feed from the PCM to run my Tach. It is one of the wires in the 8 pin connector. (3) Fuel Gauge is run form a wire that comes from the fuel tank and have nothing to do with the Engine Harness/PCM. (4) Battery Voltage Meter will come through the Vehicle Harness and not from the Engine/PCM. Hope this helps!
i can't find the link to the list of pins to be removed from the ppm and the list of wires for the pink and oranges that you removed from the block. you put it on the screen but its hard to read do you have any links to it? thank you.
See if this is what you are looking for. Please note that these are the pins for my engine, your may be different. The Xs are based on what I wanted to remove, you may elect to keep some or remove more. Cheers!bit.ly/PCMandConnectorTables
will leonard. The vehicle that you are going to put the engine in will most likely not have the GM anti theft system and therefore you will have to disable that or the engine will shut off. Your programmer should be able to ask the correct questions to get it right.
Yea, so will want to remove VATS (vehicle anti theft) and if you are planning to run 4 O2 censors, you can disable 2 of those. The key is if you can and want to eliminate something from your configuration, you need to disable it from the PCM so that you do not get erroneous/invalid check engine light warnings.
hey man do u have a link for all the pin outs for all the connectors in the harness including the remote harness connectors can't find a link anywhere or its not working thanks and great video super helpful!!
I de-pinned the wires from the PCM connector for the items (sensors and others) that I was removing from the harness. Ultimately, the unwanted connector and wiring was all removed.
If you keep your stock transmission, you will need to determine which connectors/circuits need to be left in the harness to support it. I removed all of those circuits as I am running a Manual Trans.
am working in a harness to run the same engine as yours with automatic trans 4L60E so do you save and fuse wires related with this trans including neutral safety switch?
I’m working on my harness right now and on the c2 block there’s a pink wire on e2 that goes straight to the c100 plug labled delete but on the c2 block it says keep but it runs to nothing. not sure what to do
Marco Ramirez Delete it. That wire is for some item that needs Switched power that used to live down the C100 harness. None of those items exist anymore. Therefore that switched Pink wire is no longer needed.
Jaime Huerta You will need to provide a list of things that you deleted to the person that tunes your PCM. Some items can be disabled and some just require adjustments.
Are you talking about all of the Pink Wires from the C2 Connector? About 10 or so of them... Those all go to components on the engine that need positive power when the key is in the Run position. If you are talking about something else, please explain.
E8,F9,B6 these wires in the c2 underhood plug are they deleted if you keep the stock transmission from the donor vehicle. 01 5.3 and 4L60E. Can't seem to find the answer anywhere
The E8 is for the Rear O2 Sensors, so if you are going to run rear sensors, you will want to keep it. F9 is your Ignition Voltage which I handle a different way. B6 is also ignition voltage and would not be necessary in your situation.
Kind of a vague question. Not sure what you are asking.... For the Gauges, you will need to tie into the gauge related wires of the harness and connect them to your gauges. Depending on the vehicle, you may need some converters. Most likely you are going to have to merge your Power wires as in this video series. You most likely will be removing the original Fuse block. Most of the DePinning form the PCM connector is for sensors that are no longer desired. Others are DePinned for gauges. Hope this helps.
UCanDoIt2 Yea on my project all Im doing is swapping my 98 ls1 firebird pcm for a 99+ pcm. Re pinning is said to be required for certain features to continue working but my question is. If I could just plug & play it so it could run. Then worry about the repining anything else later. I was just concerned of harming something? Any way I went to try to fire it up a moment ago and didn’t start it just cranked. Everything seems ok but I have low battery voltage also.
i just did my harness this weekend and it took me 3 days. i wish i would've seen this video before 😭😭😭 check with an ohmmeter every single wire to see what every connector was
I have very limited knowledge of automatic transmissions. I do not know the answer to your question. Maybe someone else seeing this would have the correct answer for you!
im doing a swap, blue and green pcm. I want to connect my stock 2000 Tahoe Limited OBS gages but I'm having trouble identifying what color wire goes to which Gage. Can anyone help identify the wires for my cluster since mine been cut? thanks
Could you send me your pinout sheet of the C2 connector? I found it on lt1swap.com but the current one on there doesn't individually describe all the pink wires (Ignition 1 Voltage). This is for the exact same engine in the video too, '01 5.3 out of a Silverado, stock harness and pcm. I would really appreciate any help!
I have not yet re-programmed the PCM. There is a guy that lives a little north of me that I would like to contact just from the convenience stand point. If that does not appear to be a good option, I will most likely send it to Brendan at LT1Swap.com. I have started and need to complete a list of things that I know need to be changed based on my custom configuration.
Here it is for the 4.8/5.3/6.0 2001 engine. lt1swap.com/vortec_truck_pinouts/2001.htm You can backtrack through the site to find one that matches your engine.
Thank you! That's it! This is my first LS swap, and I am a bit intimidated with the harness. Until I watched your videos, I was going to pay someone to mod my harness. Your videos are the best that I've watched on doing the harness, and I'll attempt to do it myself.
Make sure that you know how to navigate LT1Swap and that you have the proper references for your Engine. The link I provided was for my engine, yours may be different. Wouldn't want that to throw you for a loop. Cheers!
Yes. You could very easily leave the harness AS-IS and do a swap without any of this. Most of the guys that are Swapping into Hot Rods, Show Cars, and or something they want to Show Off... are removing non-essential wiring and connectors. Thanks for watching!!!
You know, I'm not really sure. That would make sense. My goal is to not place multiple ads on the videos like some others. I do appreciate you watching. Hope there are some things that are covered in the videos that make them worth watching!!! Thank you Michael!!!
You cut and label wires E2 and F2 but in the diagram they are marked delete. Why??
Thanks for pointing this out. I originally marked it for deletion as it had reference to the Transmission Solenoids, but later revised that decision as it is needed to supply switched power to the PCM. If you have downloaded my LS Wiring diagram document, it is referenced on page 2 as PCM Blue Pins 19 and 75 going to the new fuse #2. I will correct the documentation and publish them. Thanks again. Mike
Thank you for getting back at me. Great videos btw they’ve really helped out a lot!
You are welcome!!
Hello sir. First these videos are simply excellent. I can’t find the c2 block chart you downloaded from lt1swap.com. Can reply a link please. I looked a few times but can’t find it.
@@Foundmylsswap same, I can't find the needed/ not needed pinout for c2 anywhere on his website
I have an 05 silverado. I plan on doing something different than what other people are doing. Ultimate goal is to rebuild the L59 with a Holley terminator system, along with a tunnel ram intake using two of their faux fuel injection carbs. The biggest hurdle in planning has been trying to figure out how to convert from DBW to DBC. I am so glad to have found your channel and am thankful for the information you’re sharing
Awesome! That’s what’s cool about even these newer engines…. There is a wide range of customizations available for those that have unique needs. Cheers and have fun with your project.
Wow makes its seem so much more manageable the way you break it down into sections of the harness. I’m feeling confident about this!
Glad you liked the approach. The best way to eat an elephant is one bite at a time.
Nice job putting in the close ups. Excellent presentation, lighting and camera work.
I appreciate the feedback. Glad that it appears you enjoyed it. Cheers!! Mike
i wanted to rebuild a 5.3 for a long time and have learning disabilities so reading the info with out seeing what is actually happening made any project i wanted to do impossible for me but through your videos ive learned exactly what i wanted to know so please dont change the way you make them and dont stop making them thank you for now i have the knowledge and videos to actually understand and more confidence and motivation to finally start a build ive thought and dreamed about for a long long time
Cory.... Many... Many thanks for your kind words and I greatly appreciate the feedback. I too get lost sometimes with written instructions and have always been a visual learner. I think that helps me understand the message that I need to be presenting and providing. I didn't realize that until you made me think through it. Surround yourself with resources (books, videos, local mechanics, friends) and Go For It. It is fun to learn and for me... very rewarding! Thank you Sir!!!!!!!!
Your videos are the best. I've been researching a 5.3 swap for months and I have never come across anything that has been as informative, detailed and well done as your videos. If I had seen these first it wouldn't need to watch or read anything else.
I liked how you had everything printed and organized in a binder. You should include that binder in a pdf so everyone can print them and rock one just like you! Glad i came across your videos. You got a new sub!
Glad you found me and are enjoying the series! I will be publishing some of the documentation that I create and will put links in the description area under the video. Cheers!
@@UCanDoIt2Mike it still hasnt been posted. will it be?
Really enjoy learning about doing this myself. I think I can do this now! Thanks for all the work creating these videos.
Thanks for watching and I appreciate the feedback. It was a great project. Glad you enjoyed it! Mike.
awesome vid i started my harness last night and boy let me tell ya i am nervous but i am taking it one step at a time and watching videos so keep them coming you really help me out dude
Sounds cool.... Dueling Harnesses! What's the RISK? If you take out a wire that you really need, you can always add it back. If you leave a wire that you don't need... just leave it! Doing some more work today and tomorrow. Hoping to get that unwanted connectors and wires removed. Cheers to you!
You might want to invest in a 411 pcm. Much more tunability
Great video! Me and my son are about to ls a chevy monza for him and a S10 for me. The series of videos on building and wiring are very helpful.
Sounds like two great projects! Thanks for the feedback and have fun with your builds!!! Mike
Thank you for the positive feedback. I hope it goes smoothly. I've researched it for about 3 months now and your videos and LS swap (which I found on your page) are the best I've seen.
These are great projects to share with our sons. Mine did not make it on video much during this video, but he was there with me during most of it. A great reason to spend time together. Cheers... Mike
Man! You give a detailed video on the harness rework.. Thank you for your patients!!
If I'm going to take the time to figure it all out, I figure it wouldn't take much more time to record it! I greatly appreciate your comment! Thanks for watching.
Looking forward to your continuation! I'm about to start reworking my lm7 harness following your videos! Thank you for so much detail and explanation and showing it's not as terrifying as you one might think! I hope you continue with the project soon!
Thank you for the feedback! Uncovering the terrifying mystery was what I was trying to prove to myself as well as share with others. Glad you found it a resource to help with your project. Trying to carve out some time to get my swap vehicle to the point where I can drop my LM7 in and fire it up!!!! That will be a great day!!!!! Thanks... Mike!!!!
By far best ls swap harness video out there.
Thank you sir! Hope it helps you on your next project!
Excellent 5 part videos helped me a great deal thanks again ,,In the process of doing this myself
Sweet !!!! Love to hear that you are successful. Cheers and keep motoring!!!! Mike
Just found your vids by accident, but i found them very informative. Maybe ill attempt my own ls swap in the near future, and ill definitely be re watching your vids. I like that you explain everything like we dont know what we are doing.... cuz i dont lol
Cool to see how it all comes apart. Great detail and easy to follow.
I thought about cutting some of the wires with a chainsaw, but then... thought again! Pretty un-eventful so far.
Best video i have ever seen u shud be an automotive teacher... thanks so much!
Love it! Thank you very much. Glad you enjoyed the series!!!!!!!
Most detailed and easy to follow videos on You Tube!!! Phenomenal Work!!!
Thank you Anthony! Your message is heart felt. I think things like this are often viewed as extremely difficult of beyond people's ability. I think we can simplify the effort and provide some insight so others can realize it's not that much of a mystery. THANK YOU!!!!
I will hopefully be doing an lm7 build in the future, your vidoes have definitely inspired me. Thank you
Nice work. Really helpful and you've given me the confidence to tackle the loom. I've been researching like mad since I first watched your videos in this series.
I've been trying to understand the role of the two fans, as I plan on using the fans from the same donor car as the engine, and I remembered you talked of adding a wire in for a fan so I jumped back to your video to see if there was a hint on how they work. I'm left with a coupe of questions.
When you're describing the Blue connector, at 13:51 you point out that on Pin 42 you need to add a wire back in to control (ground) the electric fan. That matches up with the wiring chart I have from LT1swap.com, identified as the Low Speed Cooling Fan Relay Control.
This is where I am at the moment, trying to understand how the Low Speed fan works. What I'm trying to establish is, if you put that wire in at Pin 42 and attached it to the relay for the Low Speed fan, does this just mean the fan will run all the time?
In your LS Wiring Harness diagram, Fan 1 Relay (B42, Low Speed fan) passes through your connector, but the Fan 2 Relay (R33, High Speed fan) does not. What is the thinking there? If you do have a video covering that, please point me in the right direction as I haven't found it.
Again, really useful, and I'd like to thank you a lot for sharing. You're helping a lot of people!
For my implementation, my engine is going in an ole Jeep CJ7. It has a square radiator and I plan to run 1 fan and not two smaller ones. I think I will get better cooling that way. In my connector, I accommodated for a single wire fan control. The second wire, I kept, but it is buried in the loom until I decide I need it. It is my understanding that Fan1 and Fan2 are primarily triggered at different temperatures by the PCM. In my case, I will be running one Fan control wire to one Fan Relay which will control the fan. In your case where you plan to run 2 fans... you will need both Fan control wires and you will need 2 separate Fan Relays. Fan1 control wire will trigger Fan1 Relay and provide power to Fan1. Similarly for Fan2. You will be creating two separate circuits and each will be set to trigger at different temperatures in the PCM. Hope that helps.
So far its been a great series and will be very useful once I begin my 5.3L swap into my 2003 Jeep Wrangler going to continue following an gather all the info I can .
Thanks William! Yea, I think we will both have to solve many of the same issues.
Looking GREAT! You are making me want to do the LS Swap in my 81 CJ7 that I just completed the restoration on. JK you are NEVER done with a Jeep.
Your right on they're Never done! A tinkerer's playground. You can always but it in your cart for a future little "update"! Hope you decide to follow along!
another great video bub! Its coming along. Now to sit here and wait for he next episode!!!! Love your channel
I am really hoping that I will have some time tomorrow!!!! So go get your popcorn ready! I have been pulled several directions that past two weeks which has slowed my progress. Thank you Trey!
Great job. You have inspired me to do a swap on my 87 K5. When you get that 3ring binder done I would like to buy a copy.
I also appreciate your nice comments. Thank you! When I can, I will always add FREE downloadable (PDF) versions of documentation that I create in the description section below the videos. BUT... You just made me think (thank you), I could very easily Scan this section of my Rowdy book and publish that as a PDF as a FREE download as well. It's not for sale... it belongs to the community!!!! I will have to add a cover page that explains that these are the parameters for my build. This would not negate the need to visit LT1Swap.com and educating yourself and pulling the appropriate docs for your situation. THANK YOU! THANK YOU!
dumbing down the wires is the easy part its making the ecu do its thing without spending alot of money
I agree! Most of what I did was just labor intensive. I turned it into volunteer work.
Hello Mr. Rowdy,
Was wondering if you still going to finish your wire harness. I've been waiting for you so I can finish my harness by watching you. Thank you.
tturner3535 Yes sir! I have the next episode complete except for the final segment. Planning to work on it tomorrow and should be able to upload tomorrow night. Thanks for watching.
good tutorial, I hope I'll be able to find a pin out for my 2013 3.7 cyclone motor so I can clean it up properly.
Great job! And it looks very simple when you see that kind of video ))) Waiting for next episode as usual ;)
Thank you Sir! It's coming along nicely...
Nice. Following your steps and lt1swap.com. Appreciate it.
The PCM Red/Blue connectors being removed as called "Connection Positive Assurance" or simply put, CPA's. Other names have been given to these by GM over the years, but still function as called. They hold the "Lift" pin in place so the connector can not back out once installed.
You have done a decent job of explaining what you're doing. I only want to add the after years of dealership work, I purchased the J-Tools to remove and install. This harness is straight forward with "Slip-into-back-termials" while others are pull backward to seat. Save those terminals with the shorter wire that fit into the plastic connectors as somebody will need then of want them for project. Good video as always, "Like" & Subscribe...Then watch part 3..
P.S. I the PCM is mounted to where moisture can get to it, they make tiny rubber plugs that fill the holes left behind after some wiring it removed. I will try to get the part number soon.
great video man
I appreciate it MrTyler! Thank you for taking the time to leave your message!
Awesome videos
Glad I came across them. You did an excellent job explaining everything.
KUDOS!!
Thank you sir! I appreciate your comment very much.
where do the 4 wires from C100 connect to?
The 4 wires that I am keeping form the C100 Connector are: 1) BRN/WHT - This is the Check Engine Light (Neg -), 2) DARK GREEN - This is the DATA circuit that will go to the ODB2 port, 3) TAN/WHT - This is the Oil Pressure Sensor, 4) WHT - This is the Engine Speed wire that will feed the Tach. I will have videos soon that will show how to wire both the ODB2 Connector and the Tach Circuit with the required diode. Does that help?
Somewhat
I will keep an eye out for the next video.
Thanks!!!!!!
Two questions, the check engine light that you mark with green tape, come from some where along the harness or from PCM? and else am confuse because you are not gonna save C153 connector but you are saving Temperature Sensor and A Brown wire run from C153 connector to Temperature Sensor.
The Green Check Engine Light (MIL) wire comes from the PCM and will be routed to a newly installed OBD2 port in the older vehicle that this engine is being swapped into. I am keeping the Temperature Sensor.
great job .. its very helpfull .. Q/ if i want to do drive by wire stand alone harness the diffrent keeping pin 14, 15 thats all ? .. cus i have all the part for drive by wire
A little out of the scope of my project, but.... Your focus will be the extra sensors and control devices at the Throttle Body. Also make sure your PCM is setup for controlling all the items. I believe I saw somewhere that the PCMs are slightly different. Check with Channel: Sloppy Mechanics. He had a video once that I believe talked about this. You might be better off getting a PCM and Harness that is equipped for DBW.
UCanDoIt2 thanks for the reply.. could you send me your pinout sheet of the C2 connector , cuz in lt1swap.com the current one on there doesnt individually describe all the pink wires (ignition 1 voltage ) , my email : kwt535@gmail.com , thanks alot for your help
PCM and Connectors Pinout Charts: bit.ly/PCMandConnectorTables
UCanDoIt2 thanks alot for your help
Nice!! Great work!!
Haha pretty much organized , Mike nobody is as organized as you. LOL Ok maybe me just once though. Hahaha
You crack me up Steve! I have googled for days looking for a Media Blast cabinet that accepts empties in the right glove hole.... they must not sell them here in the States!!! Cheers to you
Very clever using the hot glue gun! Great video!
I'm thinking that will be a good semi-permanent sealed solution. I see others using epoxy and don't think that is the way I want to go. It is either that or silicone. I have a small applicator that I could neatly apply some silicone. Just a thought. Thank you sir!
I used gasket maker. it worked very well, but i like the hot glue idea better.
I actually like your idea of the Gasket Maker. I have a Craft Syringe that has a large opening that I had planned to use just to help keep it somewhat clean. I am looking for anything that will be pliable when applying, but then setup semi-soft. I may try loading one with GM and another with Silicone and see if I like either. If not, I will go with the Hot Glue! Cheers!
Where are the c100 152 and 153 connectors located on the car? I’m going to be pulling a 5.3 this weekend and want to know where to look so I can just detach them so I can pull the harness
CK_32 not really sure. This engine was already pulled when I picked it up from the salvage yard. All three connectors are located not far from the PCM.
Awesome job brother
Thank you Sir! This made me smile!
It should buddy your knocking it out quick.
Nice vids. I have been struggling with deciding which way to go on my build. I have a 1925 Dodge and was trying to decide if i want a traditional old school motor (318 - 340cid) or something modern like this. Although I would like to stay on brand and not do GM. Questions; A- how do you know which donor car to use? / B- I assume the procedure is the same for Mopar?
Did you ever consider silicone to seal up those little pin holes? Might be a little easier!!
This just awesome
Excellent video
Thank you Roger! Cheers to you Sir!
MrFireman164 I
@UCanDoIt2 still a little confusing to me lol I’m trying to remove all the wires that I don’t need for my 1999 5.3 LS and T56 swap in my MCSS, if I’m using the original truck fuse and relay box do I just leave all the pink and orange wires on the connector? And exactly what all wires do I remove from the red PCM connector? I’m trying to do my wire harness using your video. Thanks much appreciated
@UCanDoIt2 I think I got it. Using your chart pictures in your Dropbox you left in the description, I remove all the wires that’s highlighted in yellow on both Red connector and blue connector then remove the pink wires that goes to those sensor connectors that needs 12 volts that’s not needed??? I’m using the original fuse and relay box
It sounds like you do have it worked out. If using the original fuse box.... It will be supplying power (Pink and Red) to the PCM. You would want to remove any Pink or Red Wire from that block that are not being used in your new configuration so that they do not short-out down the road.
@ UCanDoIt2 thanks for the reply yes I believe i did figure it all out thanks to your videos. Thanks I appreciate it
@UCanDoIt2 On video 4 you mentioned a wire on pin 42 on the blue connector, on my harness it doesn’t have a wire coming out of it. It’s original 1999 5.3 harness Any idea?
On my PCM Blue connector pin 42 was also empty. It is for the Fan Control Relay. The 5.3 engines mostly came with mechanical fans, so Pin 42 was not used. Because I am going to be running an Electrical Fan, I am plugging back into the PCM on that pin and will program that for the first Fan Control Relay.
Nice job 👍
Thank you Miguel! Cheers!
Very good information! thank you
But I haven't even gotten to the good stuff yet! jk It is turning out a little easier that I had once thought. Thank you Sir!
Another good one, thank you
Thank you Sir! Thanks for watching.
Hello! i bought an aftermarket wiring harness w/ fuse block. this Harness come with gauges wires so i would like to know if are those wires the same that you are saving in your harness?
The gauge wires that I work with in this series are a part (within) the original Engine Harness. Sounds like you also have the Dash Harness that actually connects to the gauges. That harness was not covered in this series. I do not plan to cover that as I will be integrating the Old Gauges that come with the vehicle that the engine is being swapped into. I will be integrating into that Dash Harness.
hello once again! thanks for answer me so i have chevy 1952 and am using original gauge
as an tach. Can i use either way the tach wire (R10) that your diagram show or the wire that come from an aftermarket fuse block? else this fuse block come with wires for a Fan, Fuel Pump, Gauges. another question is what wire are you using to start the engine (engine ignition)?
Your 1952 Tach needs a Signal Wire. Not a Power wire. I can't think of any wire coming from the actual Fuse Block (power) that would involve the Tach. The aftermarket Harness should have a wire labeled Tach which would be the signal wire. Because there are different configurations for this, you should really consult the manufacturer of the Harness to best understand how they intended you to connect it.
@@UCanDoIt2Mike sorry, yes you right that was a misunderstanding so what is better way to connect the R10 wire for tach signal that come from the pcm in your configuration or the signal wire come from aftermarket fuse block? and i have an electric fun with a single fun system . can you tell me what is the purpose of FAN 1-PPL and FAN 2 RELAY. In your diagram. i really appreciate your help thanks
Both Fan 1 and Fan 2 are to be connected to a Relay. These are relay ground trigger wires. When a good ground (-) connection is provided by these wires tot he relay... the relay will activate and provide Power 12V+ through a separately provided and fuse protected circuit.
Nice video you taking your time so us average people can follow. I'm thinking about doing a stand alone harness but around my area I can not find any place that has a harness. Do you have any places that I can buy a harness from. Once again Great Job.
Thank you!!!! I have one suggest for you since it sounds like you do not have a local resource for parts. Try www.car-parts.com. There are a lot of Savage Yards that list their inventory there. It would be beneficial to acquire a harness that matches your engine (assuming that you already have that), but that is not required (don't get hung up on that). Search the site I listed either for harness, or vehicles that contain a similar engine. Then you can do one of two things: 1) call the location that has the largest inventory and see if they will sell/ship you one, 2) identify yards that are close to you and go visit them. Best of luck and thanks for watching.
Thank You
Hello! hey i have the same engine and wiring harness so my question is What is the purpose of removing those wires? it is possible to install this wiring harness as it comes original without removing or deleting any wire from pcm? am gonna install it on a chevy 1952 pick up.
Removing Wires is primarily for a cleaner look as they are not needed. The merging of wires (Pink and Orange) and connecting them properly is a must.
@@UCanDoIt2Mike thanks to get back to me and i hope you still helping me with answers while am working on my harness
really good information, thanks!
Thank you Jake! Thanks for the feedback!
Hi! as you marked E2 and F2 to delete but you notice u will need it so now you will save it to power the pcm. Am asking to change this information in the chart because i already download. Another question, I have an aftermarket wiring harness and it comes with a FUEL PUMP wire. is this wire the same as the fuel pump wire you're saving?
I have updated Chart to reflect keeping the E2 and F2 Wires. If you download another copy, it will reflect the changes. The Fuel Pump wire of your aftermarket harness runs from the Aftermarket Fuse block to the Fuel Pump. The Fuel Pump wire in my diagram (Yellow wire in my diagram). This yellow wire either (1) needs to replace the aftermarket wire and run all the way to the fuel pump, OR (2) be connected to the aftermarket wire (especially if it is already included in a bundle of wires heading to the rear of the vehicle). The Yellow wire and the Aftermarket Wire labeled Fuel Pump are trying to do the same thing.
thanks. nice explanation. either way i can keep fuel pump wire from aftermarket fuse box or delete it and use the one in your diagram. cool
So on the red connector from what it looks like from your sheet you left pin #50 (vehicle speed output circuit 4k) but I didn't see you wire that anywhere, did you remove it? I don't see a use for it for me. Motors going into a rock buggy.
That wire is used to feed the Speedo of the donor vehicle. It is used with electronic Speedos and my Swap vehicle does not have. I believe I later terminated that wire in my harness as I cannot use it. Hope that helps!!!! Mike
@@UCanDoIt2Mike thank you so much for the quick response!! An great job with the videos! Your videos guided me right through it with no issues. Was very easy!!!
Fantastic news and thanks for the feedback!!! Cheers and have fun in the Rock Buggy!!!
Thank you for these great videos, I paid a guy to do the deletes but lost the final labeling for the wires that are under the hood and inside the cabin. Hoping your videos will help. (He is not returning my calls for a different reason, or I could just call him)
Congratulations
Thank you sir!
hello once again! am going to save all transmission wires cause my trans is automatic 4L60E so my question is VSS (vehicle speed sensor) is part of the trans wires and i need to keep it and fuse it or delete it? Does an automatic transmission works with no VSS?
Javier Argumedo Not sure, as you are using an automatic transmission which is different from mine.
Great vids! They will be very helpful for my project. I'll have to be careful though and not remove wires I need for the transmission. Also what year is your engine/harness?
The Engine/Harness in this video series is from a 2001 Chevy Silverado Truck. Thanks for watching!
I'm following you sir I'm gonna do my thanks for the videos
Thank for following along!
@@UCanDoIt2Mike if I have a question what's the best way to contact you sir.?
@@simonsautorepair8082 You can contact me at Ucandoit2mike@gmail.com
By any changes did you keep TCC break switch on C-100 connector and what is the wire for? Second in a video it shows that you kept Tech wire which wire is that what connector?
Well.... You have me stumped. My notes show that I did not delete B33 TCC (Torque Converter Clutch), however, there would not have been a reason for me to keep it as I will be running a Manual Transmission. The reason that I am stumped, is that if I did not de-pin it, which connector in the harness is it going to. Sorry, but I am not sure!
Ok thanks
Looks like it goes from the PCM to the C100 connector Pin E.
What about Tech wire is that on C-100 connecter also
did you save a wire for speedometer, tachometer, gas meter, battery voltage, etc?
My engine is being swapped into a 1979 Jeep CJ7. (1) My vehicle Speedo is run through a mechanical cable off the Transfer Case, so nothing from the PCM will be involved. (2) I will be using a feed from the PCM to run my Tach. It is one of the wires in the 8 pin connector. (3) Fuel Gauge is run form a wire that comes from the fuel tank and have nothing to do with the Engine Harness/PCM. (4) Battery Voltage Meter will come through the Vehicle Harness and not from the Engine/PCM. Hope this helps!
i can't find the link to the list of pins to be removed from the ppm and the list of wires for the pink and oranges that you removed from the block. you put it on the screen but its hard to read do you have any links to it? thank you.
See if this is what you are looking for. Please note that these are the pins for my engine, your may be different. The Xs are based on what I wanted to remove, you may elect to keep some or remove more. Cheers!bit.ly/PCMandConnectorTables
UCanDoIt2 thank you so much
Okay this is my first ls project ever....do I still have to have my computer flashed if I do this ?
will leonard. The vehicle that you are going to put the engine in will most likely not have the GM anti theft system and therefore you will have to disable that or the engine will shut off. Your programmer should be able to ask the correct questions to get it right.
It's going in a 53 studebaker commander so I don't think so
Yea, so will want to remove VATS (vehicle anti theft) and if you are planning to run 4 O2 censors, you can disable 2 of those. The key is if you can and want to eliminate something from your configuration, you need to disable it from the PCM so that you do not get erroneous/invalid check engine light warnings.
hey man do u have a link for all the pin outs for all the connectors in the harness including the remote harness connectors can't find a link anywhere or its not working thanks and great video super helpful!!
www.lt1swap.com You will have to choose your year model to get the correct one as they did change.
found it now Thank you!
After removing the pins that go to sensors, do you cut the sensor connector off or do you just cut the wire and keep the sensor?
I de-pinned the wires from the PCM connector for the items (sensors and others) that I was removing from the harness. Ultimately, the unwanted connector and wiring was all removed.
If I follow all this steps what else more I need to do to keep my stock transmission everything I'm going to use is from 2001 Chevy Tahoe engine 5.3
If you keep your stock transmission, you will need to determine which connectors/circuits need to be left in the harness to support it. I removed all of those circuits as I am running a Manual Trans.
am working in a harness to run the same engine as yours with automatic trans 4L60E so do you save and fuse wires related with this trans including neutral safety switch?
Yes! You would need to keep all wires and connectors related to the Auto Trans including the Neutral Safety Switch.
Damn, those side cutters tho
I’m working on my harness right now and on the c2 block there’s a pink wire on e2 that goes straight to the c100 plug labled delete but on the c2 block it says keep but it runs to nothing. not sure what to do
Marco Ramirez Delete it. That wire is for some item that needs Switched power that used to live down the C100 harness. None of those items exist anymore. Therefore that switched Pink wire is no longer needed.
If I’m to delete all emission stuff minus the o2s how will the ecu know its not gonna use those is it from getting a flash on the ecu??
Jaime Huerta You will need to provide a list of things that you deleted to the person that tunes your PCM. Some items can be disabled and some just require adjustments.
Question why did you keep the e-2 pink wire?
Are you talking about all of the Pink Wires from the C2 Connector? About 10 or so of them... Those all go to components on the engine that need positive power when the key is in the Run position. If you are talking about something else, please explain.
E8,F9,B6 these wires in the c2 underhood plug are they deleted if you keep the stock transmission from the donor vehicle. 01 5.3 and 4L60E. Can't seem to find the answer anywhere
The E8 is for the Rear O2 Sensors, so if you are going to run rear sensors, you will want to keep it. F9 is your Ignition Voltage which I handle a different way. B6 is also ignition voltage and would not be necessary in your situation.
UCanDoIt2 thanks again for the answer and the thorough videos
so on an ls1 98 to 99+ swap this means I would need to repin in order for the car to start or will it be only the gauges be affected?
Kind of a vague question. Not sure what you are asking.... For the Gauges, you will need to tie into the gauge related wires of the harness and connect them to your gauges. Depending on the vehicle, you may need some converters. Most likely you are going to have to merge your Power wires as in this video series. You most likely will be removing the original Fuse block. Most of the DePinning form the PCM connector is for sensors that are no longer desired. Others are DePinned for gauges. Hope this helps.
UCanDoIt2 Yea on my project all Im doing is swapping my 98 ls1 firebird pcm for a 99+ pcm. Re pinning is said to be required for certain features to continue working but my question is. If I could just plug & play it so it could run. Then worry about the repining anything else later. I was just concerned of harming something? Any way I went to try to fire it up a moment ago and didn’t start it just cranked. Everything seems ok but I have low battery voltage also.
Good~
i just did my harness this weekend and it took me 3 days. i wish i would've seen this video before 😭😭😭 check with an ohmmeter every single wire to see what every connector was
Hey... at least you did get to the end! But wow, that is a lot of wire testing!!!! Have fun with yours!!!!!
UCanDoIt2 i just have a question do i keep my transmission wires from my harness (2003) due that is going into my c1500 that has a 4l60e?
I have very limited knowledge of automatic transmissions. I do not know the answer to your question. Maybe someone else seeing this would have the correct answer for you!
relicaro21 I'm doing this swap soon on a c1500 too, did you leave all the transmission wires and connecters?
I did remove all of the Transmission wires in Part 3 of this series as I am going with a manual AX15 transmission.
Thank you sir
sweet. keep em comming
Thanks for watching!
good job
Thank you sir!
you're welcome my respects
Where’s the pin outs for the c2 fuse block can’t find them anywhere on lt1
PCM and Connectors Pinout Charts: bit.ly/PCMandConnectorTables
im doing a swap, blue and green pcm. I want to connect my stock 2000 Tahoe Limited OBS gages but I'm having trouble identifying what color wire goes to which Gage. Can anyone help identify the wires for my cluster since mine been cut? thanks
Have you check on LT1Swap.com. Brandon has many wiring schematics. I am pretty sure I have seen this for the older Blue/Red harnesses.
Do you know the style pin connector that on the PCM wire?
I don't. Maybe a quick Google search would point you to something. Sorry... Mike
Could you send me your pinout sheet of the C2 connector? I found it on lt1swap.com but the current one on there doesn't individually describe all the pink wires (Ignition 1 Voltage). This is for the exact same engine in the video too, '01 5.3 out of a Silverado, stock harness and pcm. I would really appreciate any help!
James, send me an email to ucandoit2mike@gmail.com and I will forward 3 documents that contain the information that you are looking for. CHeers! Mike
Thanks fella! I emailed you about it.
Did you get your PCM flashed? If so where did you send it?
I have not yet re-programmed the PCM. There is a guy that lives a little north of me that I would like to contact just from the convenience stand point. If that does not appear to be a good option, I will most likely send it to Brendan at LT1Swap.com. I have started and need to complete a list of things that I know need to be changed based on my custom configuration.
I can't seem to find the diagram on Lt1swap.com of the c2 connector, of what is needed and what isn't. Anyone have a direct link?
Here it is for the 4.8/5.3/6.0 2001 engine. lt1swap.com/vortec_truck_pinouts/2001.htm You can backtrack through the site to find one that matches your engine.
UCanDoIt2 I'm getting a 404 on that link.
It had an erroneous space. I have fixed my original response above.
Thank you! That's it! This is my first LS swap, and I am a bit intimidated with the harness. Until I watched your videos, I was going to pay someone to mod my harness. Your videos are the best that I've watched on doing the harness, and I'll attempt to do it myself.
Make sure that you know how to navigate LT1Swap and that you have the proper references for your Engine. The link I provided was for my engine, yours may be different. Wouldn't want that to throw you for a loop. Cheers!
So the only reason to "depin" is to clean up the harnes?
Yes. You could very easily leave the harness AS-IS and do a swap without any of this. Most of the guys that are Swapping into Hot Rods, Show Cars, and or something they want to Show Off... are removing non-essential wiring and connectors. Thanks for watching!!!
Great thanks. thanks for posting the videos.
My friend which pin is for check engine
Blue 58!
Thank you
What I mean is which pin is for the light of check engine
do you make more money if we don't skip the commercials
You know, I'm not really sure. That would make sense. My goal is to not place multiple ads on the videos like some others. I do appreciate you watching. Hope there are some things that are covered in the videos that make them worth watching!!! Thank you Michael!!!
Is the trans range sensor required if i am keeping the automatic transmission that came with the vehicle?