ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 15 ต.ค. 2024
- Part 6 of the LS 5.3L Build will cover Installation of the 862 Aluminum Heads, Lifters, Pushrods, and Rocker Arms.
Project Rowdy is a restoration on a 1979 Jeep CJ7. Prior to installation into this Jeep, the transmission is being rebuilt to improve its usefulness.
References:
GM LS-Series Engines by Chris Werner: Amazon: amzn.to/2igcReD
Project Rowdy Playlist:
• Project Rowdy - Jeep R...
UCanDoIt2 Website: www.ucandoit2.c...
UCanDoIt2 Contact: UCanDoIt2Mike@gmail.com
JeepForum Thread:
www.jeepforum.c...
Facebook Page:
/ projectrowdy
Parts List used on this build: Parts List used on this build: bit.ly/RowdyEng...
Music
Intro: Alex Skrindo (Alive)
#lsswap #lsswaptheworld #lsswapc10 #lsswapc10 #diyperformance #jeep #jeepcj
![เปิดใจ "อาจารย์เบียร์ คนตื่นธรรม" อดีตเคยสุดทุกทาง ถ้าใช้หนี้หมดไปบวชแน่ l [Nickynachat]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/IxeE0xVhy08/mqdefault.jpg)
I'm building my very first LS and was a bit worried about rocker arm install but this video is very easy to follow. Very well explained...
Thank you..
gave me confidence again.. lol...
Great to hear! Always cool to learn something new and do it yourself. Have fun with your project! Mike
I am building an LS engine and I have quite a bit of vehicle experience but not enough to build an engine confidently, these videos are helping me A LOT with questions I cant anwser myself. HUGEEEE thank you!!
The way you did that degree thing just taught me something new, and I'm going to have to sub you because I'm going to do a LS soon.
Yep…. Those bolts are one-time use and are Torque-to-Yield. He mace fun with your build.
Printing a protractor on a CD is genius. Your channel is amazing. Thank you for all the great work.
Cheers! Sometimes you just have to get creative. Mike
Best Corona virus quarantine binge watch vids...the best.
Agreed👍
This guy is the best.. and the music just gets you hooked
I'm trying to figure out of to make the protractor
I miss the corona virus
Modern problems require modern solutions, I honestly like your angle torque solution.
Sometimes it pays to be a little creative... Cheers!
Its easier to just go in the firing order sequence and do both rockers at the same time. You can get them all bolted on in 2 revolutions of the crank...
One of the better engine build I’ve seen please keep making videos
Thank you Braidyn! Have fun with your projects!!! Mike
Mike........the LS part of the series is pretty impressive. The DIY workarounds and mods you did are smart. The LS engines are pretty bulletproof, but like any engine, they have their flaws, although minor compared to most others. One reason why they are so popular today. I'm putting the same era LS (2000 5.3 truck engine) in my YJ build after I make frame upgrades to it. The rocker arm upgrade to the LS is smart......the stock bearings on the LS rockers were a weak point and prone to failure. Excellent project documentary......
Thank you Bob! I think it will make my ole Jeep a lot more reliable and allow us to take it on longer trips. I have owned it for 34 years and ran out of fingers on the number of times I had some issues. Not complaining.... it's all worth it. Love Jeep rides!!! Cheers to yo Bob! I always enjoy your comments! Mike
@@UCanDoIt2Mike Anytime Mike !.............The LS swaps are a big upgrade for the Jeeps and they add a ton of power and torque, which prompts you to upgrade the drive line accordingly (which you've done). I've researched the stock LS computer and wiring harness (which I have from the donor truck), but instead of modifying it and then having to program it, then maybe having to make changes to the fuel & timing, etc., I've decided to spend the money and go with the Holley Terminator setup. I can tune on the fly and set up econo/sport/performance modes, as well as see real time readouts on the control panel inside the vehicle. It's around a grand for the manual trans one, and comes with it's stand alone management harness........plug & play. I figured by the time I modified the harness and sent the computer out to have the software tailored, then maybe having to do it further, I was better off the other way. The Holley system isn't cheap, but it's way more user friendly.......the initial setup is "grade school" easy
Thank you for the LS build videos. Even after reading and reading it's great to see the step by step as I go through my first build. Much appreciated.
Glad you found the series useful. Have fun with your build! Mike
you have to give credit when credit is due. nice job and nice videos. I just came acoss your channel now and I'll be watching a lot more.
Thank you Anthony! Glad you enjoyed them.
Super ingenious angle wrench.
As I begin my endeavor to rebuild an engine for my truck, I am so glad I found your videos.. so helpful.. thanks so much for posting!! would you do anything different looking back?
Have fun with your project! When I look back, I clearly stated (for my own benefit), that this was a relatively stock build with the exception of the CAM (and related items) swap. The machine shop that I used does build a lot of race engines and therefore offered some upgrades that I chose to take, but probably should not have. Money was not really an option, so I allowed for the upgrades. The 2 that I can think of are Piston Rods and Stainless Valves. This engine is going in a "Streetable" old CJ7 Jeep. I'm looking for badass sound and reliability. The original rods and valves would have accomplished that. Great question!!!!! Cheers and enjoy your build.... Mike
Your are awesome I watched all your videos over and over again I'm ready thanks and God bless you and your family
Thank you... Glad you are finding the video series useful. Cheers! Mike
I love your South Texas border town
Over here it's minimum wage 8 dollars
I've had nothing but 5.3 and I'm learning how to build thank you for the video
Thanks! Have fun with your build!!!
Ive been loving all the parts to this build. you are my guiding light for my ls build I plan on putting in my daily truck. much appreciated for you taking the time to share all your great knowledge!
Thank you Austin. I appreciate that you took the time to share with me your feedback. It was really a fun project and there are so many options out there for these engines. Have fun with your project. Mike
Great to have a good youngster to clock the bolts to correct torque. Interesting build. Thanks
Both of my boys had fun getting their hands dirty and learning how all of this stuff works. We spent many hours between activities talking about how it is all connected and how items are timed and work together. Cool project.
You guys were having too much fun tourqing those heads. That was definetly worth the 3 beers.
You’re video has inspired me to rebuild my 5.3 out of Yukon. It suffered from low oil pressure and has 310k miles so it’s ready for a rebuild. Do you remember what assembly guide you used?
GM LS-Series Engines by Chris Werner: Amazon: amzn.to/2igcReD
To make future endeavors easier, on clean bolts, just use a sharpie to put a dot at 12 o clock on the bolt and turn it a quarter turn. You will feel the yield point on the bolt as it approaches.
Nice tip I was a little worried about doing it
On my way to building a gen 4 5.3L aluminum block with a pair 862 heads from the bone yard. My build will use forced induction, but still only looking for around 600whp at max.
Awesome…. Enjoy the process!!! Mike
I like the ingenuity with the angle torques, you would love seeing someone manually torque mains on a dd15 lol
Gonna do my ls2 ss trailblazer because you sir! Thanks for these videos!!!
Sounds like a great project... Have a blast with it!!!!! Cheers... Mike!
Oooof , trailblazer
I've used this video on 2 more 5.3 motors after using it ta fix my wife's suburban.
Thanks..
That's really cool... Thanks for sharing!!!!
Thank you so much for your time and tips
Cary glad the you enjoyed the process. Thanks for following along. Mike.
Is there a reason you went with stock style push rods vs hardened ones from Comp Cams?
No particular reason. LIke your truck, this will be naturally aspirated and as I am putting it in an older Jeep CJ, I really am not looking for mega horsepower or high speed. Like your Truck Cam video, I also went with a 408-11 cam as it appears to match my intended driving style and requirements. Cheers... Mike!
@@UCanDoIt2Mike Good stuff. Going through videos on your channel, really good info! Stay safe out there!
I run stock 1.7 rocker arms on my Lm7 with a texas speed 224r cam .600 lift paired with pac racing beehive valve springs and hardened pushrods. turn the motor 6800 stock bottom end it loves it. went with the same melling oil pump you chose. My Lm7 is actually in a bmw 323ci hooked to a muncie 4speed. msd 6ls controller and a demon 750 feeding it. Just thought id put this comment on for people who are wondering if the stock components are up to the task.
Very cool! That is such a light car! We have a 2000 328i and the thought of a Gen3 in it makes me shiver. Thanks for sharing. There are so many options for these motors....
Logan Penland -Who asked u?
How does the Muncie do? Are you able to shift fast in that car? I have one in my truck and it is a dog to shift.
Priceless,I can learn from this cat!reninds me of building my first gm 400ci ,with a freind that was a gasser builder at mobiles strip.
Good stuff.... ehhhh! It was a lot of fun!
Very cool cd angle gauge!
Thanks for the video. I’ve got roller rockers to install soon on my 5.3 862 heads. My understanding is if you can line up the cam to the base circle it doesn’t matter about following the firing order. Just saying
Sounds great! I agree the object is to tighten on the base circle no matter how you do it. This is just one approach. Cheers!
UCanDoIt2. One question. Why did you guys do the additional 90 degrees double turns? You have a turbo setup application?? Or am I missing something here??
@@theozman38 So it is important to understand that starting with the Gen 3 engines, GM is using Torque-To-Yield bolts on the Heads. They should not be reused! And they require you to torque to minimum amount and then rotate a set amount in two separate passes.
UCanDoIt2. Ok. Thanks. I’m New to ls engines. I’ve seen other videos of doing the same thing but never understood why. Ok. Just learning. Lol. It’s not the turn of torque but the tension. When torque is applied, torque is lost due to friction from turning the bolt in the threads. Thus, applying the two amounts is reassuring good application of what you fastened. Hmm ok. Learning something new today. Thanks guys
Got to love the DIY angle gauge! Absolute genius and amazing in depth series on the Gen 3 LS series. Keep up the great work!
I really appreciate the comment! Some really cool stuff! Thanks!!!!
This is the best video I seen in a long time. And its all done right. Thanks for the video .
Thank you!
I like the homemade degree wheel!
A few questions, I understand it's been a long time since.
Was the head surfaced? I know the block was, what thickness gasket was used and how did you get pushrod lengths? Did you measure piston to block +/- 0.000"? I'll check if pistons had valve reliefs...guessing they did or were dished.
When torquing, try not to use deep well sockets/long extensions.
I hate those lifter trays. Did you use new ones? I noticed all the lifters reamined behind old ones. Are those rocker arms needle bearing type?
To be honest, I do not recall if he surfaced the heads. He did not while I was there. With the minimal amount that was removed from the block, I was able to use stock length pushrods. A standard thickness Head Gasket was used. Possibly increasing the compression due to the slightly smaller combustion chamber. I re-used the lifter trays.
As far as Deep Sockets and Extensions when torqueing fasteners..... We could have a very long conversation on that topic that would not turn out very fun. Cheers.... Mike
@@UCanDoIt2Mike In this type of application, I wouldn't argue it very much. My background is for high pressure/temp equipment in corrosive environments...I love your process/details.
Pretty clever there with the coat hanger, I'll have to remember that one!
Sometime it pays to think outside the box! Cheers!
At the same time its not that hard to VERY accurately turn a wrench 50, 60 or 90 degrees just by eye lol but you guys have made awesome videos of the correct way to rebuild an LS. We all appreciate the time, effort, and teaching put into your videos!
Very nice, love the degrees wheel idea. 👍👍
Now that is what I call "Thinking outside the Box". Can you cay Free Tool! And I figured you might like the Beer comment!
Guys I did just the same thing today. Great vid!
Cool stuff... Have fun with yours!
Gracias por sus videos, sin tener conocimiento de mecánica, pude desmontar mis cámaras de una Van express motor vortec 6.0 y montarlas nuevamente por recalentamiento. Calibre los balancines como usted lo realizó en este video y funcionó. Muy agradecido desde Venezuela.
Gracias por el comentario. Feliz de que te haya ayudado a solucionar tu problema. Diviértete con todos tus proyectos. Miguel
Para calibrar los balancines solo tiene que poner el Pushkin rod hacia abajo???
That jeep sounds awesome maybe this motor will sound as good or better
We are hoping this engine will sound similar. Cheers!!!!
I've been on a binge watching all of your build videos! Very awesome material here, can learn a lot! I like how meticulous you are. Keep up the good work.
I have TIME on my side. Because I am not in a hurry, I find myself spending too much time on it. Not trying to create a show vehicle, but I am very proud as to how it has turned out so far! Thank you!!!!!
On my lc9 5.3 I just tightened the rocker bolts to spec without worrying about rotating the engine. The lifters are self adjusting so no matter what position the rockers are in, the bolt will be at 22ftlbs no matter the position of the valve
That's certainly another way to go if you feel confident with it. You have the possibility to have under-tightened rockers where the Cam lobe was engaged in the Lifter. This would be the case unless you are running weak valve springs in which case you would be OK.
It's all stock springs....but just like any bolt that you torque, you retorque. Run the engine for 2 minutes and then go back and retorque. Gm precisely engineers there bolt length to tighten up all the way so that the lash of the lifter is basically a set point. The torque spec is just a set point as to how tight you should go without the bolt comming lose, or stripping the threads out.
Older engines you'd loosen up the rocker till it taps, then slowly tighten until it stops at zero lash. Then you'd do 3/4 of a turn to set the lash at operation. Try that on a newer ls engine and at 3/4 of turn the bolt bottoms out. They have it basically set to the point where there's no guess work. It's just tighten the bolt and go. Everything engineered perfect for ease
I'm glad you used your hand! Great vids.
Finally! Someone that understands. It is not always about "How fast can I get it done". We had a lot of fun
I just binge watched a bunch of your vids, great job.
Thank you Drew! We have had a great time with it so far! Another video coming out tonight or tomorrow.
This really helped me out. Thanks for taking the time to film it
Glad you found it useful! Your build is coming along nicely Dean!
I love it, save me $10, that's at least 3 beers.
Now that's what I'm talking about! Cheers... Mike!
I had the book to go by, but it's always nice to see it done. Great video. Thanks
Awesome! Thank for following along! Good luck with yours!!!!
Really nice work. Pretty ingenious angle gauge you came up with!
Thank you Ron! I love projects that require new tools. But only when the tool is something you've been wanting for other projects. The Angle Gauge is not one of them!!!! That little tool cost me nothing. What household doesn't have a few old crappy CDs laying around! Cheers!
Great Idea for the angle gauge! Much better than eyeballing it like I do... lol
Sometimes you can come up with some really good stuff when you think outside the box!!!! Cheers
Yes kroil for the win. Best out there my friend
Thank you, makes sense;, just wanted to double check , great video, putting my 08 Avalanche together in the morning spent today cleaning all the parts- thanks again
I have a 2004 5.3 with 706 heads and I also have a set of 243 heads. Are the 862 heads best for the 5.3 engine?
Kendal Hall The 862 are the better of the stock 5.3 heads. The 706 have a problem of cracking around the inner head bolts.
Thank you
excellent work Mike. these videos are very professional. I'm always impressed.
These are the George Lucas series videos. Baahaahaa! Cheers to you in Montana!
Thank you for you time and show us .
I have. A question can i just seat the engine at the top dead center. And then torque the rocker arms to the torwue spec. ? Thank you
I'm going to say No! TDC and tightening Rocker Arms have nothing to do with each other. The other problem with your suggestion is that you would be tightening some Rockers where the Cam Lobe is raised and that could throw off your Torque measurement. I followed a Guide that had me rotate the engine for each rocker to ensure that the Cam Lobes for that cylinder where not lifting and that they were on the base circle (no Lift).
UCanDoIt2 thank you for the fast response
Hi there, love your videos, it's great that you have stated all the important things and great picture BTW (I mean video).
Subscribed, will be waiting for some new episodes :)
Greetings from Russia!
Vadim.
I really appreciate you taking the time to leave me a message! It makes me feel good that sharing this information is being enjoyed by someone and excited that I am reaching Russia. What a wonderful platform to share with the world! Cheers to you my new Russian friend!
Thank you for the video
Thank you for taking the time to leave your feedback! Cheers!
I am not sure if you will see this comment, but I just wanted to say I appreciate this whole series, I'm pretty new to rebuilding engines, have been a lube tech for awhile now and want to challenge myself with a project car. Anyways I was always wondering for when you machine the deck surface on your engine block, do you have to get a head gasket the standard factory thickness plus what you have machined off? For example say you machined off .030 of an inch off do you have to get a head gasket .030 thicker, or does it not matter? Thanks again, love your videos!
Heck yea I'm going to see this! That is a very thoughtful question. It depends! You can deck the block to a point and still use the standard thickness gasket which will reduce the cylinderhead displacement increasing your compression ratio. You could also deck the block too much (to remove issues) and then use a thicker gasket to manage the displacement. Cheers... Mike!
i love that angle finder
Sometimes it pays to be creative!!!! I hate buying "Special Tool Number #@#&*^@#%". Cheers!
Just a tid bit I thought I would share. If you bring the cylinder to top dead center on the compression stroke you can install both rockers at the same time :) I would also like to say I love the attention to detail. Great video series
Thank you. That makes sense since the valves would need to both be closed at that point. The key would be to know with the heads on, whether you are TDC of each piston and if that was the Compression stroke. Thanks for sharing!!! There appears to be a handful if good ways to accomplish this. Cheers!
Always more than one way of doing things. If you put both rockers on number one. rotate the motor while you hand tighten them. You will get to a point to where the cam is not longer lifting either rocker. that's the compression stoke. torque them, mover 90 degrees rotation and follow your firing order. Either way works though. Not being critical, just throwing it out there
Great series for this rebuild. I for one am not a fan of the Torque then Degree turn method. I much prefer the multi step torque sequence.
I agree with you that just a simple Torque setting or sequence is easier. I assume that once these Torque to Yield bolts start to stretch, that the measurable torque amount doesn't change much, so they have you torque to a minimal/measurable amount then apply the stretch! Cheers... Mike
Keep up the great work
Thank you Sir!!! Cheers Mike
I'm using Corona time to replace the heads on my 04 Suburban. I am also replacing the lifters and rods, both factory. In this vid you did not mention setting preload when you put the rockers on. Is this not necessary? Thank you giving me the guts to attempt this job myself, I watched this vid many times and made a ton of notes for myself. I should mention that I had the heads machined, I did not use "new" ones.
Because I am using stock length Rods and stock ratio Rockers, I know the geometry is correct. There really isn't a preload. The Rockers need to be tightened when the Lifter is sitting on the base circle of the CAM (the Cam Lobe is not engaging the lifter). Hope that helps! Mike
@@UCanDoIt2Mike So, the fact that I had the head the machined, and not using a GM head gasket does not matter as long as everything else is stock, rods, lifters, cam, and rockers?
@@thomaspaccione8237 Technically, if you Deck the Block, the Heads, and use a thinner Head Gasket.... all three affect the distance between the seated Rocker and the Lifter. Therefore, you could technically say that your pushrod needs to be shortened a smidge! Most people just run with it. You are thinking on the right track though!!!!!
@@UCanDoIt2Mike I'm gonna let it fly. Hell, if it does not run there is always dynamite. I used to have a Jeep CJ7 Golden Eagle Edition with a 304 V8 automatic. That thing was a beast!
@@UCanDoIt2Mike Last question, I promise, the lifters came already loaded with oil, so they wont compress. How do I properly torque them? Should I drain the oil?
Great video guys! Keep up the good work.
Do you recommend to trays or reuse?
I reused my trays. I believe many people do. You might consider new tray if you knew the engine severely overheated as that might cause some integrity issues with the old ones.
Mine ate a valve but is an 02 with 60k miles on it. wasn’t sure if I should replace em or run it
Well done, thanks.
If an option , is it easier to install arp head bolts vs tty? Since they are 3 step torques and eliminate the angle gauge?
I am going to anwser this from a logical perspective, not through experience or training. TTY is the new direction of GM, but in the end, the heads need to be secured to the block via an Evenly secured fastener. If ARP has a Head Bolt replacement and can proved a Torque (3 steps) that create the proper compression of the head to teh block.... I believe that would be just as good of a solution. TTY is just GM's new method of obtaining that compression. My Wooden Nickles worth. Cheers!
UCanDoIt2 thanks
AWESOME PROGRESS merry Christmas to you and yours
Thank you Drew! Enjoy your White Christmas and please stay warm. It looks cold up there!
Did you re-use your push rods for the build or did you buy new ones? I am about to change lifters in my truck and Jw if you has stock or bought aftermarket?
I reused the original ones. They were all in good shape and the New Rockers that I installed did not change the ratio that would have caused the need to change the length of the push rods. Cheers!
Love this channel
Love this Comment!
Hi, do all LS engines require lash caps and if so on which rocker do you install the lash caps on? All the rockers or just the intake side or exhaust side?
My LM7 5.3 did not have Lash Caps. Believe that is an LS7 item (maybe others), and maybe engines with high boost.
UCanDoIt2 thanks boss, can you tell me which is the intake valve and which is the exhaust valve?
safe to say that the Exhaust valves align with the Exhaust ports.
Nice on the cd setup, However these days I just tape my cell phone to the torque wrench and use the compass
Now that's using your noggin!
I am 3 years late on this but this is by far the best how you video I’ve seen on rebuilding an Ls!!! Props to you!!! 💯
Dang!!!! Has it been 3 years?? What a fun project! Thanks for the compliment!!!
UCanDoIt2 LS swapping my 2 door Tahoe as we speak haha
new at this and thoroughly enjoyed your videos, thank you for sharing. a bit nervous to jump in, but that's how I'll learn ;-)
Absolutely! Cheers.... Mike
Very cool vid Mike. I like that degree wheel. I wonder why they just don't spec a torque? I have never worked on the newer style engines. These vids have me very tempted to find me an LS motor for my 81 project, but I already have alot of parts for that car.
You can't beat a free Torque Angle Gauge! I made it while watching TV. Just about to have the engine buttoned up, and then I am going to tackle the wiring harness. It need to be thinned out. Removing all unwanted wires like the ones for the Auto Trans. Thanks!
I am really hoping your video helps me! I have been struggling to re-assemble my 5.3 LS following the haynes manual instructions. I have stripped out rocker bolt holes on two rebuilt heads following their instructions, but it appears your way will prevent that.
Ouch! That doesn't sound fun. Hope you have better luck with your next run through! Cheers and good luck!
Hey brother! Got the driver's side reassembled using this method, but when I started the passenger side I stripped the intake rocker hole on cylinder 2. I believe I had everything in the right position but perhaps you can correct me if not. To start the passenger side I rotated the crank until the exhaust push rod on cylinder 2 started to lift and therefore the intake push rod was at its lowest possible position. When tightening I still seemed to be getting too much load on the push rod/valve spring and I think that's what caused it to strip. Either that or the quality of the heads I have been receiving is poor/inconsistent. Any advice you can give on the matter would be greatly appreciated :) cheers!
The only oddity on the Passenger side is when starting at cylinder 2, you are going to install Rocker position 2 then position 1. Intake is always on the Left. As far as it buggering up, wonder if 1) there was any contaminant in the threads or 2) if it was a head that had been rebuild before and slightly abused. As far as fixing it, I would find and talk to a machine shop and get a suggestion. I bet they could put a helicoil or insert in there to fix it. It will need to be a good repair as those threads will get some abuse when the engine is running.
Thanks for the quick response. I definitely accounted for the intake being on the left, that's the one I started on and stripped. Was I starting correctly with the intake push rod on cylinder 2 at its lowest position? Sorry for all the newby questions.
The process on the Passenger side is the same. (especially if you were to start with Cylinder 7). Rotate the crank until the Exhaust push rod just begins to lift. At this point you know that the Intake Lifter is sitting on the Cam's Base Circle (Lowest position) Then install the Intake Rocker arm.
I've watched all your videos and you've given me the confidence I needed to start my own build.. one quick question can you share a link for the protractor??
I f you are talking about me home made angle gauge... Google: Compass Protractor Image.
@@UCanDoIt2Mike I'll print one today.. thank you for your videos ..
All I want to know is what CD did you use for the gauge?
It was either Milli Vanilli or Twisted Sister. Both haven't been used too much lately.
Sam I Am ))9
So did you install the valve spring or did the your machine shop install them for you?
The Machine Shop did it for me. They ground the new values to custom seat then in the head, ground them to proper length and installed the new Springs, Seals and Keepers that came with the new CAM. All of this is covered in Part 3 of this series. th-cam.com/video/H9VceusOQ5Y/w-d-xo.html
Very good detailed videos thankyou.
Glad you like them!
Does it apply to the 6.0 engine?
So much of the LS Platform engines are very similar. Port sizes. Port Shapes, Valve sizes can differ, but the basic concepts are all identical.
awesome idea with th cd and coat hanger cool i like it
Thank you Cary! It worked as well as expected and super simple to create. Thanks for watching.
I'm trying to do the same thing on a Chevy C-10 1970. Is it possible yo can list all the parts that you upgraded for your engine. Your video are very thorough, and self explanatory. I've been looking for something like this until I saw your video for labeling ,and removing wires for the engine. THANK YOU
Hello Cruz... In the Description section under each video is a link to a PDF document that has a complete list of the parts I used for this build. Something that you can use as a reference and print out. Enjoy and have fun with your build!!!!!
Why is it ? That you have to turn 90 degrees on the cylinder head bolt instead of a total torque foot lbs ?
I’m just curious
Mikey Jr GM has moved to a bolt that is Torque To Yield (TTY). The idea is to torque to a lessor amount , then Stretch the bolt and achieve an accurate consistent clamping pressure. These are one time use bolts that should be replaced.
UCanDoIt2 Thanks for your answer. That is new to me.
In other words, get arp hardened fasteners
Really enjoyed your videos by the way! have to say i am jealous of your scat rods and speed pro pistons though!!!!
Highly recommended by my machinist! Can't wait to hear them sing!
This is sick
What is the cam number or cam package number ? Where did you get it from ?
I purchased the CompCams Kit CCA-K54-408-11 from Summit Racing. It includes more than just the Cam. Here is a complete list of parts I used in my build.
bit.ly/RowdyEngineExpenseSheet
Great project series Mike. Very professional from a self proclaimed amateur...lol. What was causing the lifter bind during disassembly ? Carbon buildup ? Will check other videos you have. Thanks for sharing !
I'm really not sure what caused the lifter binding. Every one of them reacted the same. It had to either be a slight buildup of carbon on the end or some build up in the sleeve that they ride in. All I know is that the new ones slid right in, so I know that the new pairings should work without issue. Cheers!
HI, thanks for the wonderful clips!!! I'm learning so much now that I want to re-build my own 5.3 to put in my '07 Burb. But I have a question: what's up with that angle thing? Why do you have to tighten the bolts to a certain angle? Isn't it torque the measurement to rely on? What's the benefit to tighten it to a specific angle? Thanks for any input on it! Thanks for the great vids!
GM has changed to a Torque To Yield (TTY) approach on some of its fasteners. I believe the theory is... Torgue to a lower measurement can be done accurately, and then rotate to a set number of degrees. This possibly creates a more uniform clamping pressure on the surfaces. With this, the TTY bolts stretch to also help with uniform pressure. Because of this... the TTY Bolts are One-Time Use Only! Hope that helps... Mike!
@@UCanDoIt2Mike OH! I see. Never heard of that before. Thanks a lot for your input on this. If I may... I don't remember what bolts you used for the rebuild. Was it oem or upgraded bolts like ARP? If you used ARP instead of oem, would you use torque or TTY? Thanks again! Cheers!
@@Martin210670 I just used some GM replacement parts. If I was building a high HP boosted engine, I would probably consider the ARP option. Anywhere in between those build extremes, it would be up to the builder.
@@Martin210670 arp bolts are not tty they are tightened to a specific torque in 3 steps
@@CruisinComPTon Thanks for the info!
Great videos sr one question where can I buy a book like that I need to rebuilt an engine chevy tahoe hibrid 2008
Thank you Sir! The book that I used applies to all Gen3 and Gen4 GM engines. GM LS-Series Engines by Chris Werner: Amazon: amzn.to/2igcReD
You should always use anti-seize on all bolts to insure proper torque ..!
So I have a gen 3 block with gen 4 rods and pistons and the valves are touching the pistons when I turn the crank what would I do to solve that ?
i'll speak from a logical point of view. You will have to either use shorter rods or a different crank. I would assume that 3rd party Rod manufacturers produce an assortment of Rods and can provide what you are looking for.
You should completely soak your lifters in oil overnight to eliminate air inside. You will see the air bubble stop when they are ready.
I think you need to do a little more research. That was the process for older engines. (1) The Manufacturer Comp Cams, (2) The Manual that I was following, and (3) my Mechanic... specifically mention that you should not soak the lifters. If you soak them, then immediately install and rotate the engine, you can ruin your valves.
so i plan on replacing the stock cam and valve springs, ive seen people just replace the springs and then put the rockers back on, by just changing the springs to a bigger spring do i need to re torque all of the rocker bolts or can i just replace the springs and call it a day?
In order to replace the Springs, you will need to remove the Rockers, therefore, you will have to reinstall and torque them down. Then you can call it a day!
UCanDoIt2 tha is for the reply!
UCanDoIt2 thanks*
Question: If the rocker arms are not done In this way and just torqued without aligning them, can this cause oil to not reach the top? I’m having trouble getting oil to reach the rocker arms and I just changed the oil pump and strainer. Help please !!
Also changed the lifters but I did not do the rockers like this and just tightened them.
@@jaimevillegas8148 The method of tightening your rocker arms should not have anything to do with distributing oil. The method that I used just ensures that you are tightening them while the lifter is touching the base circle of the cam. You should recheck the tightness of your rocker arms.
I have a 2004 4.8L Vortec that I just put in my jeep wrangler. Note: the engine has been sitting in my garage for 10 years I fired it up for the first time and hear tapping like stuck lifter or something. I took valve cover off and I can wiggle almost all the rockers. Is it possible lifters have lost the oil due to sitting or possibly the valves need to be replaced from sitting so long? The motor is very clean with only 20k original miles on it. Any help would be appreciative.
Not really sure as this is more of a troubleshooting issue. It might take a small amount of time for Oil to start circulating through the system and begin to 'pump up' the lifters. That would possibly cause tapping on first start up. This should not be a valve or rocker arm issue. If there was any damage at some point, there could be some bent push rods. With the covers off, it wouldn't be hard to remove a rocker arm and check a push rod. Beyond that, I'm not sure. Maybe someone else here could chime in.
Ok thanks for info. Going to mess with it again this weekend.
Great videos BTW. Lot's of good info
Glad you are finding them useful!!!
Great and helpful video, thanks.
Thank you sir!
UCanDoIt2 I watched a lot of your vids before and during the reassembly of my 5.3. I unfortunately had the dumb DOD lifters stick in my 2007 so I deleted them and put some performance parts in. Thank you again, I really enjoy the videos.
why when I set cylinder 1 to TDC would the rocker arm already be trying to push the valve back down? I know the roller is on the bottom of the cams lift profile because you can visibly see this through the valley. But its already trying to push it down. Same parts, just rebuilding.
Well... with the same equipment. You should first confirm that the cam gear is clocked on the cam correctly, then make sure that the dots on the cam gear and the crank gear are aligned. Secondly, which valve is opening? Very shortly after TDC after exhaust, the intake valve will open to draw in more fuel and air.
UCanDoIt2 so after thinking about it for a while, I figured maybe the lifters had maybe expanded due to being soaked in oil. I replaced the AFM lifters (lifter failure) but am using the original non-afm lifters. I thought it would be a good idea to leave all of the lifters to soak in oil over night (maybe not but that’s at least the recommendation for the afm lifters). The valve in question was the exhaust valve on cylinder 1 at TDC. I tightened the rocker arm bolt just a little and let it sit for about ten minutes. After that ten minutes the rocker arm was loose again and the valve was all the way seated. Maybe I’m onto something?
@@unclesam239 That is interesting about the "recommendation to soak the lifters". The Rebuild Manual, CompCam Manual, and my Mechinist all stated "for me", not to soak the lifters. You should consider slowly rotating (rotate and stop) your assembly to bleed out any excess oil. I also agree that that is probably your issue. Cheers and thanks for following up.
thank you very cool !!!!!!!
Hey Mike, Double R (Russ) sent me. Subbed and great looking channel...
That is awesome! Just looked at Part 1 of your 72 Camaro teardown and have marked it. Plan to go through the other parts after this busy weekend. I subbed you back, cause things you will be going through are things that might apply this, Project Rowdy and a future The Mistress (68 Camaro) project. Thanks for the message and looking forward to sharing some information.
Is there a reason not to let them set in oil to pump up ? From what i heard thats what you have to do so they dont run dry .
I was told from 3 different sources not to soak the Lifters. (1) My mechanic mentioned it, (2) the Manual that I was following, and (3) the CompCams Documentation. I believe that installing them full of oil either caused some bent pushrods, or was giving false reading on Rocker installation. So it is now recommended not to soak them, but to coat the outer surface with oil like I did. Great Question!!!!!!! Thanks for watching.
If you pump them up the lifter pre load will be wrong.
Do you by chance know the part # for the dowel pin you had to purchase? Also how do you install it into the block? I am missing one after pulling my heads
I do not recall purchasing a dowel pin. If you are referring to the alignment pins between the block and the heads... I reused the original ones. The machine shop removed then to do their work and then I re-installed them. I'm sure you could Google LS head alignment pins (or something like that) if that is what you are referencing. Hope it helps.
Great so informative thank you for this service
Glad you found it useful! Good luck with your project....
Can you recommend a book to help me put my motor back together not forgetting a ground of any sort and what bolts go where, Meaning reinstalling into car? I need to put my oil pan, front and rear cover back on and worried about the alignment procedure without having to buy alignment tools thanks.
I believe there are book about LS Swaps that may provide help with getting it back in the car. Check Amazon. I didn't buy any alignment tools. In Part 5 of this series, I show how I aligned my covers. Once tightened down they were perfect. Very Very simple.
UCanDoIt2 Thank you I was just watching that video and showing my wife as a matter of fact of how helpful that video is. I'm very greatful for you excellent tutorial as I'm sure many other are- Cheers