FRESHENING UP JUNKYARD 5.3 FOR LS SWAP - Can we get another 100K miles for $300? - UTX
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 19 มิ.ย. 2024
- Today at Ugly Truck, we're doing some prep work on a used 5.3 LS that will replace the 4.8 LS in our 1970 Chevy C10 shop truck. When we pulled this 5.3L from the 2005 Chevy Suburban, it ran and sounded great, but we want to squeeze as many miles out of it as we can, without spending a fortune. We'll be installing a new timing chain and gears, high volume oil pump and pick-up tube seal, as well as new oil pan gasket, front and rear cover gaskets, and a new rear main seal.
We removed the oil pan, and even though it had some sludge, there was no bearing material or anything that would indicate internal failure or excessive wear. The main cause of failure in these engines (and most other engines) is related to the oiling system and basic maintenance, so we install a new high volume oil pump and pickup tube seal. Since we were in the neighborhood, and since there was some slack in the chain, we replaced the timing chain and gears as well. We're not keen on tearing this engine apart anytime soon, so we install a new rear main seal, as well as new front and rear cover gaskets, and a new oil pan gasket. Jerry also shows how to remove the notorious broken exhaust manifold bolts, and how to install the front and rear engine covers without buying any special tools. We ended up spending around $300 in parts, and if Emily can keep her foot out of the gas, it should pay off!
Check out the engine install here! • LS SWAPPED 1970 Chevy ...
PARTS LIST:
- High Volume Oil Pump - Melling M295HV
- Timing Set - Cloyes C3220
- Rear Main Seal Gasket Set - Fel-Pro BS40640
- Front/Timing Cover Gasket Set - Fel-Pro TCS45993
- Oil Pan Gasket - Fel-Pro OS30693R
- RTV Silicone - Permatex Ultra Grey
Want to see more LS swap content? Check out this playlist! • 1985 Chevy C10 - LS SW...
Follow us on Facebook! uglytruck
Check us out on Instagram! @uglytruckexperience
Want to send us something? (NEW address!)
7915 E. Division St.
Strafford, MO 65757
Chapters:
00:00 Getting Started
01:41 Teardown
03:23 Engine Stand
05:30 Oil Pickup Tube Seal
07:37 Removing the Crankshaft Pulley
11:46 Replacing Timing Chain & Gears
16:16 Installing High Volume Oil Pump
20:32 What is Ripley Eating?
22:18 Cleaning Gasket Surfaces
23:12 Removing Broken Exhaust Manifold Bolts
29:00 Replacing Rear Main Seal
32:36 Installing Flexplate
36:26 Replacing Front Crank Seal
38:36 Aligning Front Timing Cover
40:11 Installing Crankshaft Pulley
43:28 Installing Oil Pan
46:45 Recap
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#lsswap #chevy #lswaptheworld #engineswap #ls #4l60e #shopdog #oreillyautoparts #springfieldmo #coupleswhowrenchtogether - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
LITERALLY one of the best LS budget breakdown videos ever produced thanks guys this is my first video I’ve seen of you two and I’ll be following and watching more now ! Thank you for the value !
Thanks so much, Sam! We have a ton more LS videos, and yesterday we launched our new Facebook group UTX: Swap Talk if you're interested in joining in the LS swap discussion! facebook.com/groups/1199009607727297/ We appreciate you watching! --Emily and Jerry
I have a 2002 2500HD 6.0 LQ4. It has 400K+ miles on it. I have repaired and maintained everything myself on it since I bought it new. But I do not know squat about working on the internals of an engine. Last year I replaced the o ring on the pickup tube because of low oil pressure.Only reason I attempted it was because of a you tube video. I have been watching yall"s videos for weeks. Unbelievable how much I have learned. I think I can do this because you have simplified the unknown for me. Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge it has taken you years to obtain..Thank you for the effort it takes to make these videos. You guys rock! Knowledge is power!
Thanks Dr Drop! That's awesome! We agree! We're here to spread knowledge and help everyone realize that this stuff possible for anyone to do. Keep us posted on your project, and let us know if you have any questions. We have a 2003 LQ4 here that just hit 450k, and we have every maintenance record since new. I'm excited to tear it down and see how it looks after being maintained so well for that many miles. Best of luck, and thanks for watching! --Emily and Jerry
Finally someone who films the close ups and talks about torque specs! About to start my ls swap and really needed this!
We're all about the details! We have several more LS swap videos, and more on the way! Thanks for watching, Dustin!
I think it's awesome that Father and Daughter get to work together doing this type work! I wish I had a daughter to teach!
Thanks William. Emily and I are actually a married couple. I do have a daughter but I can't get her out in the shop. We appreciate you watching. Jerry
@@UglyTruckExperience I'm so sorry, no disrespect intended.
It's no problem, happens all the time.
I have done automotive projects with both my wife and a second one with my daughter. I noticed a difference between the two my daughter was more enthusiastic about it and asked more meaningful questions, my wife was just as helpful but just wanted to get done as fast as possible.
You guys have a great site with a lot of good info, Thanks. A little hint on those broken exhaust manifold bolts, if you have a MIG welder they are a snap. It's so fast and easy I can do 4 of them in 15 minutes, if you bring me the head or engine and some beer I'll do them for free. I've even done them in the vehicle. Just clean up the end of the broken stud as best you can, turn the MIG up like you want to spot weld and start building up a weld bead to the point you can get on it with a set of vice grips and twist them right out. Even on recessed studs the heat dissipates so fast in the aluminum it's never touched, while welding to the end of the stud it heats and expands and after you stop it cools and contracts very quickly releasing from the threads and they twist right out. Plenty of info and video's on TH-cam on the process.
We've done them that way too, but we showed this method since not everyone has a welder... or the experience to weld on an aluminum head safely. Drilling and extracting definitely takes longer, but it's probably a safer route for most people. I just don't want to get blamed for someone ruining their cylinder head. 🤣
I totally agree use the MIG welder to get out broken exhaust bolts.
I love your videos. I bought my first LS. It’s a 5.3 in an 87 iroc. I knew nothing about them, prior to buying this one. I’ve learned so much from your channel. And I love your laid back attitude.thank you for all the knowledge, and entertainment ❤ you, and Emily make a great team
Thanks so much, Byrd! We're glad to hear that our videos have been helpful! We appreciate you watching our stuff! --Emily and Jerry
Holy moly, I've been watching your videos for weeks now and I just now realized you guys are in Missouri and your PO Box is in Strafford. I've lived in Springfield, MO for 21 years now and lived my entired childhood in Aurora, MO. I knew there was a reason why your videos are so great! :) Seriously though, I've watched A LOT of LS Swap videos in the past couple months and I find your videos to be the most instructional/informative of all the videos I've seen. I've got a 1991 Firebird that I bought from the original owner over 10 years ago and one day when my money agrees with my hobbies I plan on doing an LS swap. I used to own a 1986 Trans Am that came with a 305 TPI engine and I built a 350 for it so I have a fair bit of automotive knowledge but I've never done anything with an LS before so it sounds like a fun project. I'm learning so much from your videos. Thank you very much!
Well hey, neighbor! 👋 It's a small world! We really appreciate your comment! That sounds like a fun project for sure. 👍 Keep us posted when you tear into it!
tip for you when installing the new oil pump if you use the old crankshaft gear as an alignment tool the pump will slide right into place instaed of struggling to get the pump lined up with the splines of the new timing gear.
Great tip! We appreciate you watching! 👋
Didnt shim oil pump with feeler gauge? Seen where some do this!
Excellent guidance. Appreciate the slow and steady tutorial. Keep up the great work.
Thank you! We appreciate you watching!
Hole cow! This is the most comprehensive rebuild video, ever!! And the video editing is truly top notch..!
Thank you, thank you! We appreciate you tuning in! --Emily and Jerry
Ugly Truck Experience put a freshened up 5.3 liter in my truck …they sourced a good engine and put their touch on it …it turned out great …runs good and they did what they said they were gonna do…great folks ! Very particular in detail of the job they do!
Thanks Reed! We enjoyed working on your truck and we appreciate the lengths you went to to to bring it to us. Thanks for watching! 👍
I have an LM7 in my basement right now that I'm about to start on. This has truly been helpful. Thanks guys. Subscribed!
Thanks so much for subscribing! Keep us posted on your project!
I learned years ago from my pops and the sequence started coming right back as you were saying them.
Love the videos. Very informative and well explained.
Thanks for watching! 😊
It's a trap. Unfortunately most of our other little group will be too young to know where that originally came from 😃. Have a great day. Always great to see you Jerry and Emily wrenching together.
Thanks so much for your comment! That's not the movie we're looking for, but the younger crowd probably won't know it either! Think "race movies". 😉
@@UglyTruckExperience that's why it's a trap. It looks fast.
Wow.. best LS swap video I’ve seen.. I’m working on my first one. I have my own 2001 chevy Suburban with a strong 5.3 around 160k that I’m installing in my 88 Cutlass Supreme. Thanks for all the basic pointers 👍🏽
Thanks Gerardo! We appreciate you tuning in! 👋 --Emily and Jerry
Man i am in love with that blue tool box!! That is the only one ive ever seen that color. Great video too by the way. Very informative
We have a top box for it too, but I made Jerry separate them so I could reach the top drawers... 😆 Thanks for tuning in! --Emily
Enjoyed your 5.3 freshen up
Very informative and like your channel wanting to 5.3 my 81 c10 2wd
Thanks for watching! And best of luck with your swap! It's well worth the effort. 👍
Totally underrated... badass long derailed videos absolutely amazing, keep up the great work you guys. God bless!
Thank you! And thanks for watching! 🙂
Just looked at the rest of your videos and it's a treasure trove of knowledge, definitely a new subscriber thanks for sharing.
Thanks for subscribing! We really appreciate it!
thanks for every little thing included in this video. have a 5.3 coming 150,000 miles, will do all that you did before swapping my daughters oil related failed engine. she was quoted $9,000 to get her going again, have spent a week on various videos getting info. got everything i needed this morning right here. thank you
Hey Bill. I think you are going to save yourself a bunch of cash and also have a great time. Will be a great feeling firing that up when done. Let us know how it goes. Jerry and Emily
@@UglyTruckExperience feelin a little overwhelmed 2012 suburban lots of changes since my early years and 60's to 70's vehicles but i'm in, definitely let you know how it goes thanks
I’m glad I found this video. Thanks for making it
You're very welcome! Thanks for watching!
Great collaboration guys,fun video!
Thanks Peter! 👍
great video, learned a ton.
extracting broken bolts I use left-twist drill bits. most of the time the bolts back out on there own.
I'm fixing to LS swap my 77 El Camino and you have saved me time and money.
Thanks for sharing your time and knowledge
I see a lot of people doing that trick. I have never owned a left hand bit but might get one just to try it. When we aren't showing it on video, I weld onto the broken bolt and just back them out. Thanks for watching and commenting. We appreciate it. Jerry and Emily
@UglyTruckExperience left twist drill bits are hard to come by, usually I get stupid looks and comments when asking for them.
I get mine from a local ace hardware store by the set for $30 or so. One thing using them is not to run them as a right twist, tends to dull them quickly.
I was hesitant at first, but now rarely use a right twist and rarely use easy outs.
My welding ability is average on the best day so the welding technique for me usually ends up doing more damage than good.
Take care love the content.
I will be ordering my LS1 engine kit for my 1980 Camaro. I can hardly wait to start that engine in my classic car!! Its always good to have a second set of hands to help.
You're going to love it! Thanks for watching!
Wow. A Lot of great info thanks
Thanks for watching!
Just picked up a 2003 Yukon XL. TH-cam has given me the confidence to swap its 5.3 into my k10. The 5.3 was a crate replacement and has only 98k miles. Its not leaking but I think I should probably put fresh seals like you did. Really enjoy your channel thanks for your work!
It would definitely be easier to do it now! Thanks for watching! 👋
Great stuff, love the channel!
Just subscribed to your channel. I'm a huge fan of the 351m. Watching that video now. Keep up the great work.
I absolutely love your guys' videos I have seen all of them it's nice to see somebody so passionate about what they do great information on the ls swap makes me want to tackle my little chev myself keep them great videos coming
Thanks so much for watching! We love what we do! We started our channel to help others tackle their own projects, and it's great to hear you're enjoying our videos. Best of luck with your project! 👍
Never done a motor before but I have a 05 tahoe with 280k and she needs some attention. Low oil pressure and starting to have a tick. I'm a sure I'll have to tear her down alot further than you did this one but this video has Givin me a starting point thank you!
Check out this playlist too... It's a start to finish teardown and rebuild on a 6.0, but a 5.3 is the same. Hope it helps you out! Thanks for watching! 6.0 LS REBUILD - Ugly Truck Experience: th-cam.com/play/PL3Xf8yWArPC5PU0ggR8zUnsD1JM3y1XSo.html
Thanks you explain things so I pretty sure I am ready to takel my ls thanks again
That's great to hear! Thanks for tuning in, Dewey!
Great video very informative
Thanks Alfredo! We appreciate you watching!
I love simple and cheap it is to refresh these engines. One thing I also do is add the little brace on the oil pickup tube so it adds the 2nd bolt to hold it flush. Just a little extra insurance if I'm already there!
And it's nice to know that you can walk into any parts store and find whatever you need. 👍
@@UglyTruckExperience agree! Great video!
Thanks for watching! 😁
@@UglyTruckExperience no problem! Just found your channel so I'll be following along!
This is great, thank you!
We appreciate you watching!
Another easy way to get those broken exhaust manifold studs out is to just weld a nut onto the broken stud and turn it out while it's still hot. It can be pretty fast for doing it with the engine in the vehicle, especially if there is decent space to go through the fenderwell. On one that is broken sort of way down in there like that one it might melt down a thread or two at the exterior of the hole if you have to do a little filling, but it probably won't keep a new bolt from getting adequate bite and reaching torque spec. This is excellent content and you answered a lot of detail questions I always wondered about with the LS engine. It's strange to me why they never used that second bolt location from the oil pump on that side of the pan. Any clue on that? Yeah, another 100k miles if Emily will quit stomping the warm-n-fuzzy pedal 🤣
But I like the warm-n-fuzzy pedal! 😁 We've wondered the same on the oil pump bolts... That o-ring is a common cause for loss of oil pressure. On the exhaust manifold studs, we've had a lot of comments on our method here. We agree, welding a nut on is a lot easier in most cases, but we wanted to show someone another way in case they didn't have a welder, or weren't comfortable welding on an aluminum head. Either way, it can be a real pain, especially with the engine installed. We appreciate you watching and commenting! --Emily and Jerry
I recently just found a 86 c10 shortwide. I've been trying to find one for awhile now and have an LS swap done. So I stumbled across your channel. I love how detailed your videos are. I might be sending y'all an email.
Hi Kevin! Thanks so much for your comment! I just sent you a message back on Facebook. 👍
Might think about next time to use the 2 bolt oil pickup tube connection and change the dogbone in the back for the oil feed. I also champer the holes for the oil filter and pan for better flow. I do the new pumps and block there for better oil flow too. Just a suggestion for your next engine.
Great suggestion, Richard! We appreciate you watching!
is there a reason you didnt replace the barebell, and 2nd bolt on the oil pump??? thanks, great video
@@UglyTruckExperience
I've heard of people running the oil sump dry with high volume pumps at high rpm. You can get one with a higher pressure but not so much volume, but i doubt you will ever run your's at that high of rpm. Nice video thanks for sharing.
I've heard of that too, with the high volume pumps. But like you said, we build these swaps to be daily drivers and it will likely never be an issue for us. But it is something to consider when you're replacing the pump. Great point! Thanks Alfred!
Another great video guys
Thanks so much! We appreciate you tuning in!
I really enjoy your channel!!!
Thanks for watching!
Thanks for your time
Thanks Oscar. We appreciate you watching. Jerry and Emily
When you prime the pump and fill the dipstick and then turn it over to replace the seals wouldnt the oil just leak out due to gravity?
Yes it does, but most times when you build an engine you leave it upside down for a while. It's just a habit.
Great content!
Thanks for tuning in! 👍👍
The 706 was a good head with good flow and a small combustion chamber. They was pretty common on gen 3 and 4 and 862 heads was next best heads although they had some with casting defects causing some to crack.
We've had great luck with the 706's and they're pretty plentiful! Thanks for tuning in!
Nice torque wrench!!!👍
I bought these in 1989 when I was at Southeast Community College in Milford, Nebraska. Just had them checked, and they're still right on the money.
@@UglyTruckExperience @ its been a while, Is it snap on
Yep. They've definitely paid for themselves.
outstanding!!
Thanks Oscar!
Awesome video
Thanks Squiggi! We appreciate you tuning in!
I picked up an 05 Suburban Z71 4x4 for cheap. High miles. Im debating on another 5.3L or swapping an 6.0. I plan on using it as an overland camper and sometimes tow vehicle. I purchased an 07 yukon 4x4 with 100k less miles butvhas AFM, would like to turn it into a Track Hawk fighter one day. Also thinking about rebuilding the 5.3 from the Suburban and installking it in a 99 Crown Victoria P71 for cheap speed. I grew up glied to my fathers hip, tho im not half the man he was. He did construction by trade, he did electrical, plumbing etc and his own mechanic work after a shop screwed him out his 455SD engine when he was younger. He never had the opportunity to rebuild the newer LS engines. He always had the older engines that came in your work truck. Square bodies were the trucks of my childhood. He had a 70S FORD BIG BLOCK TRUCK before i eas born and had an 80s f150 that he took the 6 clynder and manual out of and dropped in a 302 and auto before going back to an 81 long bed, rhen 89 short bed. His last trucknwould be a 2001 f150 v6. He received a kidney transplant when i was born in 89. His lomg time doctor retired and a new young punk fresh out of college decided to change his medicine l, which destroyed his kidney. Back on dialysis for a while, with trash techs that dont know how to stick, he started sticking himself, but the damage was done. Doctors talked him into a surgery to replace the tube used in dialysis after bad sticks from techs and he was never the same. He went down hill fast. We lost him on Oct. 10 2018. The worst day of my life, he was just 61. God Bless you all and please take care of yourselves. New subscriber.
Sounds like you had a great father. I would lean toward the 6.0 for a camper or towing. I also just love 6 liters. Thanks for watching. We really appreciate it. Jerry and Emily
nice and detailed
Thanks for tuning in!
I remember with the older metal oil pans that you had to flatten out the bumps where the bolts went in or the cork gaskets would leak .
And then the cork would shrink, and it would leak anyway! 🤣 That's another nice thing about the LS engines... They don't leak like the old ones. Thanks for watching!
But they did have 2 piece rear main seals you could change without pulling the trans... Do miss those😢
The pickup oring doesn't just go bad, people simply dont know how to replace it, especially when doing it in the car. Once you remove it, you have to be careful with the new one. This is the biggest myth in LS engines along with needing to replace the barbell, another item that doesn't go bad. People are suckers for those.
Hello Avalanche. I get so many comments from people that are screaming at me for not replacing the dumbbell. I have never seen one leak that created any problem and I just don't mess with them unless doing a complete rebuild. I think you are the first to agree with me. Thanks for watching. We appreciate it. Jerry
@@UglyTruckExperience Ive got your back on this one, LOL. Those people read too many online forums and dont do enough actual wrench work.
Welder does a much better job on those manifold bolts, real easy to damage the aluminum head with a drill, an experienced tech can drill ok, but the average joe cant, plus a screw extractor will often break off then your really screwed, but I'm sure you've been there, good video, its good to know that those engines will refresh good for many more miles, thanks for the video!!
Thanks for watching! Yes, the welder trick is the easiest and quickest way to get those manifold bolts out. But we wanted to show drill/extractor method since most people have access to those tools. A lot of people don't have access to a welder, and I don't want someone to ruin their cylinder heads because they don't have the welding experience to do it safely. Fortunately, those bolts usually aren't stuck too bad and will twist right out once you get a bite on it. Thanks for your comment! 😊
I really enjoy all of y'alls videos I've learned a lot - thanks . do you have videos of ls swapping the trans am? i have two of those birds that i been wanting to ls swap.
Thanks so much! We still haven't talked the Trans Am owner into a swap, but we're working on it! 😁 We'll definitely have videos on that when we get there. We appreciate you watching our stuff! --Emily and Jerry
For bolt extraction use a left handed drill bit. Half the time just drilling on the bolt extracts it....
Those 706 heads are the best cathedral port heads....
I like the 706 myself. There are a billion of them out there making great power. Have never used the left handed bit but will give it a try. I have a tendency to break bits, so I have just never purchased one to try it. Thanks for watching. Jerry
Well done video, you have a new subscriber
Thanks so much, Daryl! We appreciate you subscribing! --Emily and Jerry
I love your the videos. Great work so detailed. What exhaust Gaskets do you recommend? I have 2004 yukon 5.3 just starting swap process thanks
For exhaust manifold gaskets I use stock gm steel gaskets. For the manifold to pipe gaskets I use Fel-Pro. Thanks for watching, we appreciate it Wade.
Fantastic video. This gave me a full list of refresh parts and torque specs.
Question on the Cloyes timing chain set. In the description, you use the C3220. My 2004 Silverado 1500 with a 5.3L LM7 calls for the C3210. If I search the same truck, but with a 6.0L, now it calls for the C3220. But searching the Cloyes site, it appears the C3220 is used on some 5.3L applications. Do you know what the difference is between the C3220 and C3210?
Thanks in advance. Keep the great content coming.
Great question! We did some searching, and it looks like the difference is that the C3210 has a billet steel crank gear and an iron cam gear, whereas both gears on the C3220 are just steel. Not sure why they used them in different applications, but either should work. 👍 Thanks Ron! We appreciate you watching our stuff, and best of luck on your project! --Emily and Jerry
Nice job
Thanks Raymond! We appreciate you watching!
That was abt as simple as you could explain it.. If you didn't get that you don't need to own a tool. Great job
Thanks Rodney! We appreciate you tuning in! 👍
I like that you said "pop."
That is the Midwest coming out in me. Thanks Brandon. Jerry
I always use left hand drills when I try to remove studs. Sometimes you get lucky and the drill pulls the stud out for you.
Have always wanted to try that. As long as I have been doing this stuff, I have never owned a left hand drill. Thanks Richard. Jerry
@@UglyTruckExperience I should have stated left hand drill BITS, not drill. I bought a cheap set and they've worked well for me. Great video!
Nice gonna do this soon
Awesome! Thanks for tuning in! --Emily and Jerry
I noticed that you didn't replace the cam retention plate while replacing the Timing set. Any particular reason? They're known to start leaking just like the Pick-up tube O-ring abound the same mileage. Loved the video. More in depth than most.
Hello Oldude. A few people have asked about that and I always just feel like I have to stop somewhere. I personally have never seen the cam plate leak to a point where there is a obvious problem with loosing oil. I also feel the same way about the dumbbell plug in the back. I just don't mess with the cam plate unless the cam is going to come out. Thank you for watching our stuff. We appreciate it. Jerry
I’m going with Cannonball Run… because it took me way to long to see Jerry’s shirt. It was tooooo obvious. Lol!
DING DING DING! We have a winner!!! 🎉🎉🎉
very good video, getting ready to install a jegs longblock in my camaro, and it was all the tinware reinstall with torque specs i needed to see....thank you
Great. Glad it helped out. What year Camaro?
@@UglyTruckExperience 92rs heritage 25th anniversary
Thanks for all the great info. I need your help, What type of motor mount work best for 2003 ls motor going in a 1983 k10 4x4 .
We appreciate you watching! Here's a link to installing the engine and trans in a 1978 C10, and we show the motor mount adapters we use. I believe there is a link in the description of that video for the adapters. Hope this helps! th-cam.com/video/XanlbyNiLzE/w-d-xo.html
Very detailed you guys rock keep up the great videos 🤘🏻
Thanks George. We appreciate you watching and we will keep them coming. Jerry and Emily
Since that oil pick up has only 1bolt, I'd add Melling LS Oil Pickup Tube Retainer Support Bracket M29500 LS1 4.8 5.3 5.7 6.0 6.2 LQ4 LM7 LS3
Thanks Biglon. I have tried a few of those but not the Melling. Will give them a shot on the next one. Thanks for watching. Jerry
I know very little about these engines and This video helps me out so much, thanks so much for your content🙏🏼🫡. Hopefully now I can get the engine to put in my truck.
We appreciate you watching! If you want to know even more about the LS engines (inside and out), check out this video! th-cam.com/video/jA3POdzz_e8/w-d-xo.html Best of luck with your swap! 👍
Making it look super easy. Its not hard, but i always end up looking like a coal miner when doing this lol. Noticed The oil pan wasn't aligned with engine block on the bellhousing side before torquing..?
I will go back and look at that sometime. Recording the video with a camera stuck in your face can make you overlook things sometimes. Thanks for your comment. Jerry
My crank pulley Bolt needed about 250 lb ft TQ to get off
then almost the same with the pully, i tought it was gonna break the puller!
They can be a real fight sometimes! Thanks for tuning in!
Looked at other videos and those videos suggest that you align the oil pump with shims. You just installed the pump as is on the motor. What are your thoughts on this.
Hello Robert. I have seen people doing that also. I just oil the pump up before I torque it down to the block. That layer of oil acts like a shim and helps center the pump. I guess if it gives them piece of mind to shim it, it doesn't hurt. I just don't really see the need for it. Thanks. Jerry
Also make sure to loctite your cam gear bolts
Very good video. I learned a few things. You should have way more subscribers than you do.
Thanks for watching! We're just getting started! Feel free to share our videos with your friends! 😊
So close to tossing in a camshaft! What made you choose to update the other items, but not the cam?
Camshafts are expensive, and it didn't make sense to throw one into a stock motor with 175k miles. If we replaced the cam, we'd also have to replace the lifters, which means pulling the cylinder heads and new head gaskets, and that's more work than we wanted to get into here. This is just a nice daily driver for our 70 C10, so we're not spending a ton of money on it.
@@UglyTruckExperience i appreciate the reply. I totally understand cost, but honestly, I've never seen an engine that ran nice and quiet that needed an oil pump and timing set.
If you ever get a chance to check out Matt Happel's assembly video, you'll likely be pleasantly surprised at how resilient these old used parts are.
Good luck with the truck, and thanks for sharing.
What are those plastic things bolted to the back of the drivers side head for just curious my 6.0 had one on it
I think that has something to do with protecting the fuel rail during assembly at the factory. We have had that question come up a few times and have not gotten a definite answer. I would love to know for sure just for curiosity sake. Thanks for watching. We appreciate it.
best video ever
Thanks Mike. We will keep them coming. Jerry and Emily
There are different thickness between early engine and later 03 and up cover's different bolt's lengths
Good to know! I don't think we've done one earlier that 03.
What size bolt did you use to hold the chain hoist on the motor?
Those are 10mm x 1.5 pitch threads. Grade 8. Thanks. Jerry
Do you ever pull the cam and check the cam bearings on these refresh jobs when you have the cam sprocket off already? Seems like that's the first bearings to show wear on these.
Hey Jonathan. We pull the oil pan off and look for aluminum in bottom of the pan and also take a look at the top of each push rod at the rocker end. If any are worn, we pretty much know that the cam bearings need to be done. At that point I would just take the whole motor down and rebuild it. If you could take the cam out without removing the heads it would make just doing cam bearings so much easier. Great question. Thanks for watching. Jerry and Emily
@@UglyTruckExperience thanks! I enjoy the show & have learned a lot because you take the time to go thru the details!👍
Hi, I really enjoy watching your videos. What weight oil do you use for a 01 Tahoe 5.3 that has 165,000 miles on it . Do you prefer regular oil or synthetic ? Thanks so much !
I use Castrol 5/30 Synthetic Blend on those. Thanks for watching. Jerry
@@UglyTruckExperience Thanks, I'll use that !
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Here is a question for you. Got the LS I put in this C10. Had about 220k on it. When out I put the melling 295hv pump in it, as was suggested in the video here. Suppose to high volume standard pressure. Well at idle I'm at 60psi. When getting on it, it pegs the gauge 80+ psi. Called melling and they said it's nothing to worry about. But that seems extremely high to me. Ever had something like this? Leaning towards swaping in a stock pump but it's alot of work at this point. Truck is completely together now.
Runing mobile 1 5w-30
Hello Shaun. That pump comes with another spring in the package to raise the pressure. You didn't mention it so I am assuming that you went with the stock spring. I have never had one idling at 60 psi. Have you checked it with another pressure gauge? Does it run these pressures once it is up to temp also? Jerry
@@UglyTruckExperience I didn't swap the spring. Before I had my dakota dash in I had a mechanical gauge, that read the same.
Hey Shaun. As much of pain that it is to do, I would try putting a mechanical gauge at the oil pressure sensor fitting just to confirm the pressure. I agree that something is definitely strange. Jerry
@@UglyTruckExperience mechanical reads the same
Question, I've seen some videos where they say you want a high pressure oil pump not a high volume because the LS has a history of pumping all the oil up top with higher RPMs. Any truth to this? Thanks
Hey John. I am not sure about that. I could see where the high volume pump would pull more out of the pan and not have enough time to get that oil to drain back if there was a case when the oil level was low. It could draw in some air and starve the lower part of the motor for oil. At that point you would just have to blame it on being low on oil though. I was building motors before the ls and just ended up getting a bad taste for higher pressure just because of the wear that it could put on the drive gears. The LS doesn't use that system so I am not sure. If you build one and go with higher pressure, I would love to know how it works out. Appreciate that question. Jerry
Great vids but why the high volume oil pump?
Thanks! It's not much more expensive than a stock volume pump, and some extra oil to the top of the engine isn't a bad thing. We appreciate you watching!
I noticed that the oil pump had two holes for two bolts but you only put one bolt bc of the oil pick up tube. Will that effect the motor in any way?
Stock ones come that way!
You can buy a C clip looking clamp that bolts to the other side to help hold it down
For lining up the timing cover couldn't you install the oil pan then the timing cover and it would need to be perfectly aligned to install it
Hello Chownzi. When you are aligning the front or rear cover, you are trying to center the seal on the crankshaft. You could use the oil pan as a straight edge without a gasket on it and use a feeler gauge on the ends to align the pan with the covers. Thanks for watching. Jerry
Thanks for a thorough video, great content. What size bolts do I use to put my 5.3 on an engine stand?
The thread on the bolt is 10m x 1.5 thread pitch. Stands are different. Mine uses a bolt that is 3 inches long. Make sure you use a high grade bolt. The grade is stamped on the head of a metric bolt. 10.9 would be good. Thanks for watching..
The Works toilet bowl cleaner will clean that pick up tube right up rinse and spray with WD right away
Definitely going to have to try that!
@@UglyTruckExperience I see other TH-camrs using oven cleaner I haven’t tried that yet
I always use oven cleaner! Cheap and works great
Do you have to shim those new oil pumps? Also, ive had REALLY good luck welding a nut onto the exhaust bolts to get them out.
Hello John. When I put the pumps on, I fill them with oil or submerse them in oil and them give them a few turns without it being installed yet. That gives that oil pump a good layer of oil between the gear and housing to center it. I install it and torque it down before that oil can drain away. Gm's installation procedure doesn't mention anything at all about centering them. They say throw it on and torque it down. It just depends on how crazy a person wants to get I guess. We take most of our broken studs out with the welder also. Thanks for watching. Jerry and Emily
@@UglyTruckExperience awesome! Thank you!
I guess lining up the timing doesn't matter if the cranks gonna spin after chain is off
Definitely important to have them lined up. In this video I had to move the crank back to line the two gears back up because my puller moved the crank a little when I was pulling crank gear off. I never let the crank move with enough force to cause any kind of damage. I treat every engine like it is an interference motor even if it is not. Thanks Jerry
Dont you have to shim the oil pump so it’s centered on the crank? 2thou shims, tighten it down?
Hey Neploid. I am not sure where the whole shimming the pump started. I make sure the pump is oiled up real good and then tighten torque it down. The film of oil is going to give it some clearance. Gm procedure says to put it on and bolt it down. Doesn't even mention oiling it first. We have a 6.0 that we have to put together and I think we will address that question. Going through the process of shimming it definitely doesn't hurt but I really don't see the need myself. Just my opinion. Thanks for watching. Jerry
@@UglyTruckExperience gotcha! Maybe it’s certain pumps, but I thought the oil pump gear inside is located by the crank and the housing around it doesn’t have locating pins, but maybe the design has changed for certain pumps.
what about the gasket behind the camshaft holder?
If I remove those plates for some reason I would replace it. If not, I don't mess with them.
When adding the rear main seal I noticed you did not replace the "Bar Bell" oil diverter. I assume you did or is it not necessary? Thanks
We've never had an issue with those, so we just leave them alone unless we tear the engine completely down and send it to the machine shop.
@@UglyTruckExperience Thanks . Can't wait till the next video! Thanks for the build . Watched over many times. Great info
Thanks for watching! Should have a new video later this week! 😁
You get a thumbs up just for tell that young woman "I use to be able to remove that 24mm LS harmonic balancer bolt with my bare fingers"...LMASSOFF...We old guys do what we do...
Thanks Anthony. She has been around me long enough that I can pretty much say anything and she knows not to believe it. We appreciate you commenting and watching our stuff. Jerry and Emily
I like it like that is a good movie
Thanks for watching! But that's not the movie we're looking for!
do they have gear drives instead of timing chains?
It is a timing chain.
Hmm I wish yall could do my tuck like this lol tell me how much
Hi John John! If you'd like more info on pricing, you can send us an email at uglytruckexperience@gmail.com and tell us about your project and exactly what you'd like to have done. We appreciate you watching! --Emily and Jerry
What size bolts did you use to lift the engine from the heads ?
I'm not sure what size they are, but they're the bellhousing bolts. Thanks for tuning in! --Emily
@@UglyTruckExperience ah ok, thank you. I ended using the pulley as a point of lift. But for some reason is looks like it's sagging on the engine stand. 🤔
Weld a nut to the broken exhaust bolt.
No need to drill
Also. Take an old balancer cut the center out. With a little sanding in the center.
Waa la. Front seal tool.
We usually use that trick on the exhaust bolts, but we wanted to show drilling them since most people don't have a welder. Thanks for watching!