I owned a V6 Essex in a MK1 Granada and had to do an engine rebuild back in 1983 - on that engine the nylon gears were a very light green colour and with 80,000 miles it was in very good condition - let's pay some respect to Ford for designing a chainless system with Nylon silent bevel drive for the camshaft - a very original and sound engineering design
Goeije morn Steve. Nothing better than getting up on a Sunday morning with a brew and one of your fantastic tutorial videos 👍🏻 love how you take your time and explain everything precisely 😄 Hope all your family are well ? Have a great Sunday so until the next time cheers Stevie 😎🏴
I had a 1977 Capri with the 2.8 Cologne V6 and one very very cold morning (Canada) the steel crank gear stripped the contact teeth off nylon cam gear. Was a easy repair and replacement was still a nylon gear. Best thing it’s not a interference motor so no bent valves.
I remember those engines from my apprenticeship at a Ford dealer. The Essex V6 where big lumps compared to the Cologne V6. We had a saying that the best part of the Essex is that it's more easy to work on the ignition.
Always check the end float of the camshaft on these engines. There are 2 little bolts and a plate behind the cam wheel, and they have been known to come loose. The noise from a camshaft with excessive end float sounds a lot like worn big ends.
Great video.. I have a 2.8 capri (bought 1986) which has the cologne engine and did also have the nylon drive gear . I always had fear of it breaking (the legend of them failing was either a truth or myth which jsut grew) so eventually I changed to alloy. I anticipated it being more noisy but i truth it isnt at all noticable Not sure if that will be the same for the Essex engine. I used the old cam drive disk as a hall desk light base and have a matching essex drive disc as a second desk light base ..
A rare intelligent presentation of any motor work- trust me, the other class of mechanics is exactly why I never trust most others to touch my gear. Hamfists. The silicone goo thing- I never get why they smear a gasket, by design intended to fill variations in facing planes- with such junk. A good smear with oil to allow the paper (usually) to soften and expand to conform is how they work. From head covers to case gaskets on the old Duc singles, it's always worked for me. That synthetic gear thing, speaking of the other-worldly sound of Duc bevel cam trains... those plastic- contaminated timing trains in some V8s- like 318s and 350s. I don't see what noise the metal stuff makes that's even remarkable. TRW and Cloyes gear sets for these Fords are the way to go. With proper plumbing into the cabin, you can pretend it's a Duc 860 or something even cooler...! Thanks much for the (again) intelligent approach to the project. My 2800 project concurs with your take on their proper treatment.
indeed, in my case the sump had an oil leak and the second reason is while removing the residue seal on the engine-block / timingcover part can fall in the sump...
Hi. Thank you for your inspiring, interesting, and educational videos. Appreciated! I really like the ones about the carburetors: both the theory on the whiteboard and in practice with disassembling and reassembling them and how it works with different settings. In a follow-up video about checking the timing gear: Is there a possibility that you can make a video on how to time the crankshaft and camshaft together with a chain-driven setup, either with fixed gears or with an adjustable gear (for example the Mini) including advanced and retarded setup. I understand that you do not want to remove the engine from your Mini but with the help of a whiteboard and some loose parts you can fix it :-)Thanks in advance.
@@D3Sshooter That would be great. Thanks. Yes, using a degree wheel and dial indicator with the adjustable timing gear. Looking forward to your next video.
Just in the name of fun facts, there was an Essex V6 made in Canada. It was also a Ford product, however I believe the most prominent difference was a 60 degree versus a 90 degree architecture.
I'm reading in the workshop manual that you need tool CP 6141 to align the cover so that the oil seal will be concentric with the pulley hub... Mine is leaking so much from the front crank oil seal and I only replaced it 2 years ago, which makes me think I didn't centralise it properly. Do you have any advice on this at all? Would you fit the pulley while the timing case bolts are loose or not yet in, to make sure it sits central? Thanks!
What is the point of the pulley mounted on the front of the timing gear cover? Is it just a 'redirect' across to the alternator/water-pump, or is there another purpose too?
Hello, my question is on the subject of the paint booth, I have doubts about how to put the air extraction and the equipment that you advise to put and what recommendations you can give about these booth measurements; The 6mx3,20m. the height is 3.80 m can be adjusted with a false ceiling to 2.80 m something similar
In very simple terms total air volume refresh in 20 seconds seems to be the best solution. just calculate the volume of air and then look for fans that are able to blow and or extract that volume within the give time. Try to keep the airspeed down by using large input and output openings. The best approach is a down draft, top in bottom (floor) out. I did a sideways booth, works well but it has some death corners in the booth.
Looking at the cross sectional area of the nylon cam gear it is a failure waiting to happen, when subjected to oil contamination it cannot be long before this gear fails, I wonder why TVR did not fit the V8 Rover type engine, a much better engine all round, this engine, when fitted to the Reliant Scimitar also gave big problems, not a good design. Stay safe Steve! Chris B.
txs for the comments, Chris what do you see that made you write this? just wondering as i have done a very close inspection and it looks just fine. What did i overlook ? Love to hear your expert view
@@D3Sshooter Hello Steve, if you look at the method that is used in this design to "cushion" the contact between the driving gear, and the camshaft, it appears to be attached to the can gear boss by a splined arrangement, if you then look at the forces upon the "nylon" material it is being pulsed by the camshaft action by many cycles a minute in use, given that these nylon type materials do not hold up well in a hot oil situation I think the relatively thin section nylon will very soon fail, I am sure it is sound mechanical condition now, but given time and use it looks to be a failure in waiting, have you checked with suppliers to see where this gear fails ? The design of the nylon "tyre" has many grooves, all of which could cause stress and eventual failure, I would be a lot happier with a solid aluminium or steel gear, although these would give more noise. Stay safe ! Chris B.
These gears do fail but they are tougher than many give them credit for. I like the RV8 but they aren't exactly bulletproof especially when it comes to oiling problems. (They willstill run when pretty much scrap though - ask me how I know!).The RV8 had the benefit of being developed well past the point where the Essex was out of production (about 20 years!). I fixed my Essex timing gear problem by replacing the timing gear with one from a Chevy LS...I had to change a few other parts due to interchangeability issues but this way I have upgraded my Essex significantly by adding two cylinders, an aluminium block, heads & an extra 3.2L of cylinder capacity ☺😉
![[Live] : ONE FIGHT NIGHT 25 วันนี้!! "อเล็กซิส vs รีเกียน"](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/suVr9a6BM2g/mqdefault.jpg)
I owned a V6 Essex in a MK1 Granada and had to do an engine rebuild back in 1983 - on that engine the nylon gears were a very light green colour and with 80,000 miles it was in very good condition - let's pay some respect to Ford for designing a chainless system with Nylon silent bevel drive for the camshaft - a very original and sound engineering design
Thanks for sharing
When the gear breaks you have had it
@@carlstark6857 yeah, but it's no different to a snapped chain or belt.
Great Steve I learn something new everyday did not know the gear timing was made of nylon on this old ford engine 👍internally looks clean .
Glad you enjoyed it
Great job as usual Steve. Ive always hated nylon gears and preferred metal even tho metal made noise I love that sound. Thanks again
Rock on!txs for the comments
Goeije morn Steve. Nothing better than getting up on a Sunday morning with a brew and one of your fantastic tutorial videos 👍🏻 love how you take your time and explain everything precisely 😄 Hope all your family are well ? Have a great Sunday so until the next time cheers Stevie 😎🏴
Glad you enjoyed it, txs for the comments
Steve..admire your excellent editing, and camera set up..you are one of the best..and a lot of work..thx...
Thanks again!
I had a 1977 Capri with the 2.8 Cologne V6 and one very very cold morning (Canada) the steel crank gear stripped the contact teeth off nylon cam gear. Was a easy repair and replacement was still a nylon gear. Best thing it’s not a interference motor so no bent valves.
txs for the comments
I remember those engines from my apprenticeship at a Ford dealer.
The Essex V6 where big lumps compared to the Cologne V6.
We had a saying that the best part of the Essex is that it's more easy to work on the ignition.
txs for the comments
The Essex V6 is only physically slightly bigger and in terms of weight only about 10-20kg heavier.
Awesome video mate! Love the nylon timing gear!
Glad you enjoyed it
Great content as always Steve. 👍
Glad you enjoyed it
Great job Steve 👍 💯
txs for the comments
I hope you can get started on old rusty again I would like to see how it turns out have a great day
its coming as old rusty has a lot of work.. This TVR is far less and we want to drive it. So that was given priority.
used to replace with swaymar metal gears way back in the day
txs for the comments
Always check the end float of the camshaft on these engines. There are 2 little bolts and a plate behind the cam wheel, and they have been known to come loose. The noise from a camshaft with excessive end float sounds a lot like worn big ends.
Thanks for the comments
Great video.. I have a 2.8 capri (bought 1986) which has the cologne engine and did also have the nylon drive gear . I always had fear of it breaking (the legend of them failing was either a truth or myth which jsut grew) so eventually I changed to alloy. I anticipated it being more noisy but i truth it isnt at all noticable Not sure if that will be the same for the Essex engine. I used the old cam drive disk as a hall desk light base and have a matching essex drive disc as a second desk light base ..
Thanks for sharing!
nice view of that gear.
Thanks 👍
A rare intelligent presentation of any motor work- trust me, the other class of mechanics is exactly why I never trust most others to touch my gear. Hamfists. The silicone goo thing- I never get why they smear a gasket, by design intended to fill variations in facing planes- with such junk. A good smear with oil to allow the paper (usually) to soften and expand to conform is how they work. From head covers to case gaskets on the old Duc singles, it's always worked for me. That synthetic gear thing, speaking of the other-worldly sound of Duc bevel cam trains... those plastic- contaminated timing trains in some V8s- like 318s and 350s. I don't see what noise the metal stuff makes that's even remarkable. TRW and Cloyes gear sets for these Fords are the way to go. With proper plumbing into the cabin, you can pretend it's a Duc 860 or something even cooler...! Thanks much for the (again) intelligent approach to the project. My 2800 project concurs with your take on their proper treatment.
Good job. 👍
Thank you! Cheers!
My old 37 Chev. 6cyl had a fiber cam gear.
Excellent tutorial but I'd have swapped out for an alloy gear just to be safe especially as you'd done most of the work needed anyway.
Fair enough!
Hi when are we going to see the rest of old rusty ?
txs for the comments,i would say in few weeks when i start to work the chassis and glazing
no need to remove sump. just take out front 5 or 6 sump bolts
indeed, in my case the sump had an oil leak and the second reason is while removing the residue seal on the engine-block / timingcover part can fall in the sump...
1970 model 1700 v4 ford sente ayarını şema şeklinde gösterebilirmisiniz
Hi Steve. With regard to the seal for the cover,is it recommended to add sealant on both sides or just install it on its own?
Yeah, you can use a bit.... helps to keep it in place
Great job..but when will be more David Brown vids
txs for the comments, i would say in a few weeks .
Hi. Thank you for your inspiring, interesting, and educational videos. Appreciated!
I really like the ones about the carburetors: both the theory on the whiteboard and in practice with disassembling and reassembling them and how it works with different settings. In a follow-up video about checking the timing gear: Is there a possibility that you can make a video on how to time the crankshaft and camshaft together with a chain-driven setup, either with fixed gears or with an adjustable gear (for example the Mini) including advanced and retarded setup. I understand that you do not want to remove the engine from your Mini but with the help of a whiteboard and some loose parts you can fix it :-)Thanks in advance.
Thank you for the comments, I assume that you are referring to the method to dial in a camshaft ? I can do that, and will place it on my list
@@D3Sshooter That would be great. Thanks. Yes, using a degree wheel and dial indicator with the adjustable timing gear. Looking forward to your next video.
Just in the name of fun facts, there was an Essex V6 made in Canada. It was also a Ford product, however I believe the most prominent difference was a 60 degree versus a 90 degree architecture.
Thank you for the comments
I'm reading in the workshop manual that you need tool CP 6141 to align the cover so that the oil seal will be concentric with the pulley hub... Mine is leaking so much from the front crank oil seal and I only replaced it 2 years ago, which makes me think I didn't centralise it properly. Do you have any advice on this at all? Would you fit the pulley while the timing case bolts are loose or not yet in, to make sure it sits central? Thanks!
Nice
Thanks
Met pretvet gaat alles er beter in... ;-)
yep
What is the point of the pulley mounted on the front of the timing gear cover? Is it just a 'redirect' across to the alternator/water-pump, or is there another purpose too?
I am not sure what you are asking,
Cooling fan mount, Capri/Granada/Transit.
Is this for American cars as well?
yes it is
Where about are you from?
I am live in Belgium Vlaanderen- region Oudenaade
@@D3Sshooter I was thinking Poland but yeah makes sense
Hello, my question is on the subject of the paint booth, I have doubts about how to put the air extraction and the equipment that you advise to put and what recommendations you can give about these booth measurements; The 6mx3,20m. the height is 3.80 m can be adjusted with a false ceiling to 2.80 m something similar
In very simple terms total air volume refresh in 20 seconds seems to be the best solution. just calculate the volume of air and then look for fans that are able to blow and or extract that volume within the give time. Try to keep the airspeed down by using large input and output openings. The best approach is a down draft, top in bottom (floor) out. I did a sideways booth, works well but it has some death corners in the booth.
Does anybody knows where i Can by the timeing gear set? Let me know please?
P.s im from denmark😳
In this video you can spot The Orange Can of Death😘
Yeah, that’s the first thing that I would remove from that engine.....
Looking at the cross sectional area of the nylon cam gear it is a failure waiting to happen, when subjected to oil contamination it cannot be long before this gear fails, I wonder why TVR did not fit the V8 Rover type engine, a much better engine all round, this engine, when fitted to the Reliant Scimitar also gave big problems, not a good design. Stay safe Steve! Chris B.
txs for the comments, Chris what do you see that made you write this? just wondering as i have done a very close inspection and it looks just fine. What did i overlook ? Love to hear your expert view
@@D3Sshooter Hello Steve, if you look at the method that is used in this design to "cushion" the contact between the driving gear, and the camshaft, it appears to be attached to the can gear boss by a splined arrangement, if you then look at the forces upon the "nylon" material it is being pulsed by the camshaft action by many cycles a minute in use, given that these nylon type materials do not hold up well in a hot oil situation I think the relatively thin section nylon will very soon fail, I am sure it is sound mechanical condition now, but given time and use it looks to be a failure in waiting, have you checked with suppliers to see where this gear fails ? The design of the nylon "tyre" has many grooves, all of which could cause stress and eventual failure, I would be a lot happier with a solid aluminium or steel gear, although these would give more noise. Stay safe ! Chris B.
@@453421abcdefg12345 Thanks Chris that is understood . Much appreciated
These gears do fail but they are tougher than many give them credit for. I like the RV8 but they aren't exactly bulletproof especially when it comes to oiling problems. (They willstill run when pretty much scrap though - ask me how I know!).The RV8 had the benefit of being developed well past the point where the Essex was out of production (about 20 years!). I fixed my Essex timing gear problem by replacing the timing gear with one from a Chevy LS...I had to change a few other parts due to interchangeability issues but this way I have upgraded my Essex significantly by adding two cylinders, an aluminium block, heads & an extra 3.2L of cylinder capacity ☺😉
Don't bother inspection, if the gears are not alloy replace them immediately.