Steve, I’m a mechanic by profession, I think you do a great job. Please don’t let all of the Karens get you down with their need for perfect terminology, etc....
That is an ingenious way of replacing the valve seals, the old seals were really hard and worn, so I doubt they were doing anything to stop oil running down the guides, it would be a good idea to remove all the silicon gasket rubbish from the inside of the rocker box , that is deadly when it gets into your oilways and blocks them up, I am always very wary when I find excess amounts of that stuff everywhere on an engine, always a sign that a bodger has worked on the engine! Stay safe, Chris B.
Thanks for the comments Chris, indeed that silicone is a real bad thing when used incorrectly. This engine so far had silicone all-over. I am removing and replacing all of it while I go through the engine..
Great video as usual. I have heard of feeding window sash cord (cotton rope) down the bore at bottom dead centre and turning crankshaft to compress the rope ( not too firm) to hold valves in place. A mechanic aquaintance raced a Mini and replaced a broken valve spring between races using a piece of bent coat hanger wire. It was clubsport and he did this for another competitor he raced against. No sponsorship just competition and fun.
Thanks for the comments, indeed , Maybe I should have added that ( checking its height and compression force) . In fact I did measure them... something I will add to the next video a remark made here
Great work, Steve. It's almost motivated me to do the same job on my old Toyota Hilux. It gets a bit of blue smoke if the engine has been sitting for about 15 minutes and is started again, also puts out a bit of smoke after prolonged heavy engine braking.
I read in the UK mag Cars and Car Conversions many years ago that if like me you have trouble with the feeler gauges judging the feel, you can try rotating the pushrods with the feeler in position. They also suggeste grinding the sides of the feeler gauges so they fit in the slight groove worn in the rocker arm face that contacts the top of the valve stem. Measuring using the drag method does not take that wear into account. Best wishes and stay safe from Australia (37deg C today)
Great videos, as someone who as attempted to make videos in the past I can recognise the effort you've gone to and the annotations on screen are absolutely first class.
13:51 add lithium grease to the clips and they will stick to the valve stem. also they will stick to the screwdriver tip and you can use that to put them in place. very easy
Steve; your video production gets better all the time; the content is always perfect. A little suggestion is to use a little bit of grease on the clips or retainers to help them adhere in place when reinstalling. The car is coming along great. Thanks for sharing your knowledge and talent.
Your TLC on this car will get it into top shape. Thanks for posting, enjoyed watching. Could you please do a short update clip on "Rusty" and his companion the Peugeot ( I forgot what name I nominated, "Claudette", "Emile"....)on what spare parts you have recieved so far and what is on the way. We miss those two projects a lot. Cheers.
the newer ones have a spring to maintain better tension, better design too, remember to retighten the head bolts? these are a known for head gasket issues
Weak valveshaftseals was a common problem on BMWˋs in the 70ˋs and 80ˋs, Driving behind them was ok as long as they had the throttle open, As soon as they released the throttle you were covered in blue smoke, With throttle closed and high RPM the existing underpressure was able to suck oil from the cylinderhead along the valveshaft into the cylinders where it was burned and the blue smoke created,
Great job again! I've been wondering what are you going to do with all the cars you've picked up and worked on. Will you make them for your sunday drivers or do you plan to sell them on? Or maybe you're going to do some racing with them? Anyway, TVR is a very cool project too, can't wait for another video.
If you don't have compressed air, can it still be done, would the valves just drop on to piston, so I could still pull them back if piston is top dead centre, what size is the nut, torx socket???
A very informative video,I look forward to the next as always. A small request on a video suggestion...its a controversial topic I know ... standard coolant or evans waterless? I've been pondering this question for my build for a while now. Your thoughts and input would be very helpful for me to make a considered decision :-D
Please can you tell me what that special tool is called and where I can get one? Also, is there an alternative method for keeping the valves from dropping if you don't have access to an air compressor? Thanks so much mate, really helpful video! Chix
Thanks for the comments, you will find the tool on most car/mechanics tool shops.. I don't know where you live so its a bit difficult to state. You could make sure the piston is TDC instead of an air compressor but be carefull as the valve will drop a bit. I would just go and buy a compressor. It does not have to be a big one
hi great vidios you do i've bought valve sem seals for my 1970 ford zodiac the original ones have a clip at the bottom the ones i ordered the inside diameter is to small any idead where i can find seals it is a 1970 v6 essesx 3.0
Thanks for the comments, very good point .. yes I did but should have shown it in the video... I will add it to the next video as a comment that was received. txs
Thanks for the comments, It has pushrods with an oil channel in it , the rockers are a bit flimsy if you ask me... that is why I will put rollers in later
Hello Steve, I can see it is extremely cold in your barn. Will it be a big job to put in a wood/coal stove to warm the place up? That way you can do your videos and keep warm! Die stoof maak nie 'n geraas nie en jy kan ook koffiie maak daarop!
Hi steve ive got an issue with my v6 essex when on tdc and i fit tge dizzy with position no1 firing it doesnt start but when i change the position of no1 to no6 position ansd it fires from firing order no6 its start and i can advance timing and retard like normal is it normal like this???
Steve, I’m a mechanic by profession, I think you do a great job. Please don’t let all of the Karens get you down with their need for perfect terminology, etc....
Thanks for the comments Will, It won't .. I have a vert thick skin Lol
Instablaster
A nice video to watch while having a pleasant breakfast on a sunny Spring day! And always learning something new too.
Glad you enjoyed it!
The valve clips we call Collets. Great videos. I had a couple of Scimitars with the Essex engine, great motor.
That is an ingenious way of replacing the valve seals, the old seals were really hard and worn, so I doubt they were doing anything to stop oil running down the guides, it would be a good idea to remove all the silicon gasket rubbish from the inside of the rocker box , that is deadly when it gets into your oilways and blocks them up, I am always very wary when I find excess amounts of that stuff everywhere on an engine, always a sign that a bodger has worked on the engine! Stay safe, Chris B.
Thanks for the comments Chris, indeed that silicone is a real bad thing when used incorrectly. This engine so far had silicone all-over. I am removing and replacing all of it while I go through the engine..
Great video as usual. I have heard of feeding window sash cord (cotton rope) down the bore at bottom dead centre and turning crankshaft to compress the rope ( not too firm) to hold valves in place. A mechanic aquaintance raced a Mini and replaced a broken valve spring between races using a piece of bent coat hanger wire. It was clubsport and he did this for another competitor he raced against. No sponsorship just competition and fun.
Just found a week end project because of your great explanation!! Thank's
Great video. Checking for valve spring fatigue is also a good idea. Cheers !
Thanks for the comments, indeed , Maybe I should have added that ( checking its height and compression force) . In fact I did measure them... something I will add to the next video a remark made here
Great work, Steve. It's almost motivated me to do the same job on my old Toyota Hilux. It gets a bit of blue smoke if the engine has been sitting for about 15 minutes and is started again, also puts out a bit of smoke after prolonged heavy engine braking.
Thanks for the comments, yep that could be the issue...
Hey, Sir! For last half of a year I have no time at all to watch your videos, but I know they're great, as always )))
Another brilliant video, thanks. A little grease on the back of the clips makes life easier.
Glad to help
I read in the UK mag Cars and Car Conversions many years ago that if like me you have trouble with the feeler gauges judging the feel, you can try rotating the pushrods with the feeler in position. They also suggeste grinding the sides of the feeler gauges so they fit in the slight groove worn in the rocker arm face that contacts the top of the valve stem. Measuring using the drag method does not take that wear into account. Best wishes and stay safe from Australia (37deg C today)
Great videos, as someone who as attempted to make videos in the past I can recognise the effort you've gone to and the annotations on screen are absolutely first class.
13:51 add lithium grease to the clips and they will stick to the valve stem. also they will stick to the screwdriver tip and you can use that to put them in place. very easy
Such great content i wish you did a video of a complete rebuilding of the ford essex engine thanks
Waw, schitterend. Ik had nog nooit eerder deze werkwijze gezien van dichtingen te vervangen zonder de cilinderkop te verwijderen.
Knap staaltje !
Steve; your video production gets better all the time; the content is always perfect. A little suggestion is to use a little bit of grease on the clips or retainers to help them adhere in place when reinstalling. The car is coming along great. Thanks for sharing your knowledge and talent.
Your TLC on this car will get it into top shape. Thanks for posting, enjoyed watching.
Could you please do a short update clip on "Rusty" and his companion the Peugeot ( I forgot what name I nominated, "Claudette", "Emile"....)on what spare parts you have recieved so far and what is on the way. We miss those two projects a lot. Cheers.
Thanks for the comments, I will do so in the coming weeks. I need to get the TVR running fine first before I re-engage on Old Rusty and Cohar
the newer ones have a spring to maintain better tension, better design too, remember to retighten the head bolts? these are a known for head gasket issues
Thanks for the comments and tip
The best car mechenic i ever seen.nicely explained.your the best i ve subscibed your chanel sir.👍👍👍
Thanks for the sub!
Weak valveshaftseals was a common problem on BMWˋs in the 70ˋs and 80ˋs, Driving behind them was ok as long as they had the throttle open, As soon as they released the throttle you were covered in blue smoke, With throttle closed and high RPM the existing underpressure was able to suck oil from the cylinderhead along the valveshaft into the cylinders where it was burned and the blue smoke created,
worse on skodas, they had no oil seals at all
hahahaha, I remember seen those puffs on the highway.. Good point.. Thanks for the comments,
great camera and editing..
excellent video , thank you i have to do the same job on my mk2 3 litre capri so very helpful thanks
My pleasure and good luck...
So great job Steve 👍. Enjoyable
Thanks for the comments,
Good work. It's very time consuming doing that kind of work. I found that a 'Swan neck' spanner worked best for adjusting valve clearances on Ford's.
Thanks for the comments, yes indeed it takes a lot of time .. not difficult but a bit time consuming... and yes there are other great tools for this,
Thank you Steve! Yours great teacher!
Thanks for the comments,
Another enjoyable video!
Thanks for the comments,
Excellent video.
Thanks for the comments,
Cold day for adjusting valves. I think I would have found a warm job in the house.
By the look of those old valve seals that engine smoked like a winter's tilt.
Thanks for the comments, It did when starting..
Great job again! I've been wondering what are you going to do with all the cars you've picked up and worked on. Will you make them for your sunday drivers or do you plan to sell them on? Or maybe you're going to do some racing with them? Anyway, TVR is a very cool project too, can't wait for another video.
Think your carbs need a good tune to get the spark plugs looking right
Thanks for the comments, that is indeed the case together with the Atomizer check
Did you find any blue sealant in the oil pick up strainer in the sump?
It's everywhere!
Blue silicone sealer in engine will block oil ways
Indeed very bad stuff when used wrongly
If you don't have compressed air, can it still be done, would the valves just drop on to piston, so I could still pull them back if piston is top dead centre, what size is the nut, torx socket???
A very informative video,I look forward to the next as always. A small request on a video suggestion...its a controversial topic I know ... standard coolant or evans waterless? I've been pondering this question for my build for a while now. Your thoughts and input would be very helpful for me to make a considered decision :-D
Please can you tell me what that special tool is called and where I can get one? Also, is there an alternative method for keeping the valves from dropping if you don't have access to an air compressor? Thanks so much mate, really helpful video! Chix
Thanks for the comments, you will find the tool on most car/mechanics tool shops.. I don't know where you live so its a bit difficult to state. You could make sure the piston is TDC instead of an air compressor but be carefull as the valve will drop a bit. I would just go and buy a compressor. It does not have to be a big one
if valve falls into cylinder , how would you get it out ?
hi great vidios you do i've bought valve sem seals for my 1970 ford zodiac the original ones have a clip at the bottom the ones i ordered the inside diameter is to small any idead where i can find seals it is a 1970 v6 essesx 3.0
Thanks for the comments, Burtons in the UK
Nice work Steve
dit you checked if the the pushrods are straight and clean (oil channel)?
Thanks for the comments, very good point .. yes I did but should have shown it in the video... I will add it to the next video as a comment that was received. txs
Does this engine run solid lifters
Thanks for the comments, It has pushrods with an oil channel in it , the rockers are a bit flimsy if you ask me... that is why I will put rollers in later
Hello Steve, I can see it is extremely cold in your barn. Will it be a big job to put in a wood/coal stove to warm the place up? That way you can do your videos and keep warm! Die stoof maak nie 'n geraas nie en jy kan ook koffiie maak daarop!
Thanks for the comments, yep its cold but exceptional this week . da dak moet eerst vervange worden. dan een stoof....
hi will this cover the 2.5 V6 engine also please
If I had one yes, but that is not the case for the moment, although it is very simular
👍
Can you send me the book for the essex v6 i have an 30u im going to be rebuilding
Hi steve ive got an issue with my v6 essex when on tdc and i fit tge dizzy with position no1 firing it doesnt start but when i change the position of no1 to no6 position ansd it fires from firing order no6 its start and i can advance timing and retard like normal is it normal like this???