Got a 2012 Impreza and my master cylinder does not have its own reservoir 😂 I was looking around the engine bay like wtf until I saw the hose connecting it to the brake cylinder’s reservoir. Great video man- appreciate you passing along the info
-- Just wanted to mention that the centric clutch master I got from rockauto, was defective out of the box. Avoid like the plague! Bought an exedy instead and ZERO issues on install.
I finally did this on my 97 subaru outback. I did not have a vacuum bleeder, but this was a very easy replacement. I did buy a $10 one man bleeder kit but honestly did not need it. The only step I did differently was bench bleeding the master cylinder before installing it. Don't think I actually needed to even crack open the bleeder port on the slave. Saved myself $300 from what the shop quoted me. Thanks for posting these videos!!
Just finished this video and your slave cylinder video. All I can say is THANK YOU! Your videos are clear, concise, and straight to the point. Thank you so much for putting these out there and helping people like me! Thank you thank you thank you!!
Thanks. My clutch barely disengaged enough to shift roughly, and I had to pull the pedal back up with my toe. I thought it might be the return spring in the clutch, but after reading your master cylinder symptoms, I thought this sounded right. I replaced my original 2004 Subaru outback Nabco master cylinder with a $50 Autozone generic, and it works great--full travel and its enough to completely disengage the clutch. The Nabco one has a much easier-to-remove reservoir cap, and I sort of wish I had a closer match. My 9yo son helped me with the bleeding by working the pedal. Thanks again.
Mine has the exact same issue at the moment, I have to pull it back up with my toe because it doesn't let back out, and this started after a fair few months of rough shifting. I'll know to change it sooner, next time! Thanks guys :)
Mine just did this today. Previously i was having issues intermittently with shifting into gears. Almost had to force it sometimes. Well today i went to reverse and it stalled on it. The clutch pedal went right to the floor and stayed with no recoil. I have to pull it up with my hand and it snaps back into the up position. Now after watching this, perhaps it is my master slave as well. It was replaced before by the previous owner. Perhaps it failed.
MrSubaru1387 My clutch peddle just all the sudden went limp on me. It stuck to the floor and now it like it has no cable. I cant even engaging into gear
Thanks, I did this replace today, used the mityvac bleeder pump, worked like a charm after I adjusted the fork throw til it engaged at a reasonable throw. thank u, mr Subaru ! Brake fluid is some messy s$&¥
Dude thank you so much. My 03 legacy gt 5mt's ckutch pedal goes tonthe floor and I was freaking out because I though I installed the throwout bearing wrong!
I have a 2008 Subaru Outback 239,000 miles Clutch replaced At 136,000 Clutch pedal is soft and I can not get the gears to change. Could that be the problem It started all of a sudden no clutch smell. This is my 3rd Subaru but my first manual transmission Subaru. Thank you in advance for your support
Hey so do you have any tips for the bleeding process? I must be doing something wrong, I replaced the master and slave at the same time and have tried to bleed it from the slave, felt like I was pumping away for 10 minutes and nothing really changed
I'm experiencing about 1/4" of free play at the top of the pedal after changing the clutch, tob, and pressure plate. Seems like my throw out bearing is probably spinning at all times. I believe there should be more like 1" to 1.5" of pedal free play.
Hey so I’m doing the master cylinder on a 2011 legacy and it’s buried underneath the pedal box. I got most of it out I just need to get the top line out and it’s almost impossible to get to. How do I get to it without taking the whole pedal assembly out?
Quick question, I have an 06 sti that the clutch is heavy at regular rpm (idle to 4000ish) but once above that it gets reasonably soft and feels like it doesn't spring back all the way. But shifts buttery smooth at the higher rpm in comparison to lower rpm. Could it be the reservoir or clutch adjustment or even a clutch bleed?
+MaxxehZors also, could have a heavy duty aftermarket clutch kit with a heavy pressure plate and clutch plate installed. That'd make the pedal heavy too. WRX and STi's clutch feel is always heavier than a normal hydraulic clutch because their factory clutch and pressure plate are more heavy duty as well.
That would make sense. The previous owner did put a new F1 premium HD clutch kit on it. Probably what it is. I'll have to check the fluid too. The car sat for about 6 months or so started, started regularly prior to me buying it, I'm wondering if that had anything to do with it too.
I’m having the same symptoms but with the exception of reverse not going into gear like it is locked out of reverse. The rest shift in but a little harder. Could this fix my problem?
Ok, IDK what I am doing wrong. I have been at this for hours. Replaced my master and slave cylinders and used a 1 man bleeder kit. It feels like there isn't enough clutch pressure no matter what i do.
Unbolt the slave. Compress it in a c-clamp, not hard, just enough to hold it in the fully closed position. Open the bleeder. Pump the clutch pedal until all air is out of the line. Close the bleeder. Release the clamp. Make sure the reservoir doesn't run dry doing this. Bolt the slave back on, you should have a firm pedal.
Please help... hi i replaced both master and slave.. i even replace the rubber line pipe...i even bleed it using vacuum untill fluid is clear.. but when i pump the clutch pedal while the vacuum is on theres very fine bubbles appearing.. my clutch still have no pressure.. do i have to replace the metal line as well?.. or am i missing some rubber boching / o-ring on the pipe connections...? thanks in advance
There is no o-ring between the master and slave cylinder. The lines should be tapered at the end and seal line a brake line. The clutch has no push with the bleeder valve closed? Is the bleeder valve leaking when closed?
MrSubaru1387 thanks for the reply.. ill try to bleed it with somebody first.. and i dont know if the shop would replace bad master and slave that i bought
So I got a 97 outback legacy with the manual trans, Car wont go into gear easy and seems like 2nd is the only one I can get it into to get moving. When car is off it goes into all of them fine. Reverse grinds. Could it be the clutch master cylinder or something worse?
Never heard of Rocky Parts. Look like OE Nabco part but without Subaru packaging. Do you have positive experience with aftermarket parts for Subaru? Some aftermarket parts are even more expensive than actual OE Subaru parts but quality differs a lot.
+Norsology I usually use OE on almost everything. I do use aftermarket/parts store cv axles. Had good luck with them. Just because OE axles are super expensive and hard to come by.
I have a 16 crosstrek (MT) and want to flush the circuit with new fluid. Can I use DOT4 instead? My unit supplies the brakes & clutch. I was thinking of a high temp brand since it gets very hot in Texas.
Im having the same symptoms and yesterday as i was driving on highway was going to shift into 4th and it fet like the gear was floating so i popped it back into neutral and it stayed there stiff and wont go into any other gear just stiff in neutral... would this be my issue here?
How do you see the clutch master cylinder rod? My Legacy is a wagon.You camera angle is great by the way. Are laying on the passenger seat or the drivers floor board? Your video is outstanding.
+Rob Chan you'll need a friend to help you do the bleeding procedure. You will bleed it just like brakes. Press the pedal down, hold it down, have someone open and close the bleeder screw. Repeat until all air is pushed out of the bleeder.
Hello MrSubaru, I just done bleeding my clutch, the system has no air but the pedal has a bit different feel, before that it used after you push down and lift up back it used to move in smoothly close to your foot, now it moves kind of in two parts, first half moves easier and second has more pressure, for example. When I step on pedal first half is light and second to the floor has a heavier feel when pushing.. hopefully you understand what I am talking about.. do you think it will change to normal once I start the engine and get the clutch running? Tried 20x re-bleeding and just wasted bunch of fluid with zero air in system
+Tu Pimp A Caterpillar if all the air is out of the system, I'd give it a test drive. Perhaps it's a difference in the new master or slave cylinder, whichever you replaced.
MrSubaru1387 its the same master cylinder, I just took it apart to clean it throughout, have lots of dirt inside of it, but yeah I will give it a drive and hopefully it fixes the issue, Thank you for response
I am having problems getting that firm pedal feel. I work alone too. I have only hand tools and a one man brake bleeder. I have some improved pedal height about two inches from the floor. When the slave bleeder valve is open the pedal goes to the floor and will only come back up if pull the pedal arm with some tied on webbing. I have bled the master cylinder by its valve and gotten some bubbles then. I have removed the slave with the line still on, bleeder closed and pumped the rod and checked for bubbles in the master cylinder reservoir, none. Any ideas ? All parts are new, and installed correctly.
+Thomswindows I've unbolted the slave cylinder, fully compressed the rod, and locked it gently in a c-clamp before. Then opened the bleeder and bleed as normal. After all the air escaped, tightened the bleeder, removed from the c-clamp, and reinstalled on to the transmission.
You need 2 people: Person 1 pumps the l clutch in the car until there is good pressure then holds the clutch down. While the pedal is being held down Person 2 cracks open the bleeder valved to lets some air out then closes it again. This process is repeated until Person 2 is able to crack open the bleeder without any air coming out, only fluid.
gravity bleed it. But at some point, you will need a second person to work the clutch pedal while you or the other person works the bleeder screw on the slave cylinder. Fortunately, an extra person isn't too hard to come by.
1) fill clutch hydraulic system with DOT 3 or DOT 4 brake fluid 2) open bleeder screw (allow to gravity bleed until fluid comes out bleeder screw. 3) Shut the bleeder valve 4) pump the clutch pedal with your hand until some pressure begins to build up. 5) install a brake bleeder bottle on the bleeder screw with a clear hose on it so you can check for air bubbles coming out of the slave cylinder when you break the slave cylinder bleeder screw loose. 5) hold clutch pedal to the floor 6) brake the bleeder screw loose and observe if there is any air that came out. 7) repeat steps 3, 4, 5, and 6 over and over until no air bubbles comes out of the bleeder screw. 8) pump the pedal by hand a bunch of times until normal clutch pedal feel is restored. 9) DONE
+Rav3 G0d the bleeder is on the slave cylinder. Old trick is to coil clear tubing inside a bottle, fill the bottle part way with fresh fluid to cover the tubing, attach of end of hose to bleeder, pump until the bubbles stop.
MrSubaru1387 thank you for the quick reply. This is my next step. I am unsure if my master. Is even damaged. But my clutch has been sticking as soon as it releases from the transmission. Ie doesnt interfer with shifting but doesnt always pop back to fully extended. Gets worse if I drive in the city. Constantly shifting and such. Like earlier my range of the clutch pedal for shifting was so small and the pedal was sticking so low I got very concerned. Shifts fine in those ranges it gets stuck at. Doesn't affect me shifting either. And it's definitely not leaking fluid. Still full and no gunk above my gas pedal
It was the slave. I replaced it and it works just fine now. You should post a video on how to bleed the clutch. Solo. While not having any special tools =3 Took me a bit to figure it out. Lol. Thank you for your suggestion
Do you have a link to the actual vacuum unit you are using in the video (black & red?). the one you link to on Amazon didn't create any suction whatsoever (Mityvac MV6870). I had to get it done the manual 2-step way, with a prop to hold the pedal down; because the car had to go back on the road! Now I can go make an extra zombie-dodging trip as well, for the return...
Awesome video!! Just replaced the clutch on my 05 outback the pedal grabs high still. is there a procedure to bleed without the vacuum bleeder? I also replaced the slave and clutch fork because it was broken!! The kit came with a clutch master cylinder so will be replacing that as well!
How did you know the clutch fork was broken? I’m having similar issues atm don’t know if it’s that or my master cylinder needs to be changed, I did change the slave and it started going into gear but then 2 weeks later stop going into gear completely when car is on but when off the gears go in easily any help or Tips are appreciated
@@Rico.wrex559 so I actually didn’t even know for sure until I got the clutch out . It started on my way home I had no gears and couldn’t even put in gear. So When taking it apart clutch fork was broken right in middle
@@DaPhillyCarGuru damm I’m guessing that may be my issue rn but not for certain , I have changed my salve and it started working but two weeks later wouldn’t go into gear again and I’m hoping it’s my master and not my fork
I have a soft clutch pedal but I don't see any visible signs of leaking and when I press the pedal it makes a kind of a squeaking sound is it a good assumption that the master is bad still?
Could the master cylinder be making a clicking sound? Here’s a video of the click: drive.google.com/file/d/1fj8oaax7YrfiSZTuoCRD_PLZbiQFiKNY/view?usp=drivesdk It’s not either of the switches for the hill assist/starting car. I also thought it was the helper spring but it isn’t. I can hear the click in the engine bay as well near the master cylinder. Car is a 2018 wrx for reference.
I’m gonna sound dumb, but I’m doing both slave and master cylinder tomorrow on my 04 Outback, how did you get to the clutch arm to remove the pin and retainer clip
Got a 2012 Impreza and my master cylinder does not have its own reservoir 😂 I was looking around the engine bay like wtf until I saw the hose connecting it to the brake cylinder’s reservoir. Great video man- appreciate you passing along the info
-- Just wanted to mention that the centric clutch master I got from rockauto, was defective out of the box. Avoid like the plague! Bought an exedy instead and ZERO issues on install.
I finally did this on my 97 subaru outback. I did not have a vacuum bleeder, but this was a very easy replacement. I did buy a $10 one man bleeder kit but honestly did not need it.
The only step I did differently was bench bleeding the master cylinder before installing it. Don't think I actually needed to even crack open the bleeder port on the slave.
Saved myself $300 from what the shop quoted me. Thanks for posting these videos!!
+Rob Chan that's awesome. Glad I could help you out with this repair!
Just finished this video and your slave cylinder video. All I can say is THANK YOU! Your videos are clear, concise, and straight to the point. Thank you so much for putting these out there and helping people like me! Thank you thank you thank you!!
thanks for the upload dude. just what i was looking for, no bench bleeding necessary and links to vacuum bleeder. huge thanks brother!!!
Thanks. My clutch barely disengaged enough to shift roughly, and I had to pull the pedal back up with my toe. I thought it might be the return spring in the clutch, but after reading your master cylinder symptoms, I thought this sounded right. I replaced my original 2004 Subaru outback Nabco master cylinder with a $50 Autozone generic, and it works great--full travel and its enough to completely disengage the clutch. The Nabco one has a much easier-to-remove reservoir cap, and I sort of wish I had a closer match. My 9yo son helped me with the bleeding by working the pedal. Thanks again.
+David Forrest glad to hear that you got it fixed! Glad to have helped.
Mine has the exact same issue at the moment, I have to pull it back up with my toe because it doesn't let back out, and this started after a fair few months of rough shifting. I'll know to change it sooner, next time! Thanks guys :)
Mine just did this today. Previously i was having issues intermittently with shifting into gears. Almost had to force it sometimes. Well today i went to reverse and it stalled on it. The clutch pedal went right to the floor and stayed with no recoil. I have to pull it up with my hand and it snaps back into the up position. Now after watching this, perhaps it is my master slave as well. It was replaced before by the previous owner. Perhaps it failed.
Lol my 02 WRX is having the same problem I will definitely replace the master cylinder
Thank you for making this video! I thought my clutch was done for but after watching your video I'm back on the road!!
+Angelo Juvera awesome! Glad I could help. 👍
MrSubaru1387
What was the symptom that caused you to go that direction? I might need one as well
Spongy clutch pedal, fluid leak from the master cylinder rod boot into the car.
MrSubaru1387
My clutch peddle just all the sudden went limp on me. It stuck to the floor and now it like it has no cable. I cant even engaging into gear
Is your clutch hydraulic, or is it a cable?
Thanks, I did this replace today, used the mityvac bleeder pump, worked like a charm after I adjusted the fork throw til it engaged at a reasonable throw. thank u, mr Subaru ! Brake fluid is some messy s$&¥
You're welcome 👍🏻
Totally helped me out on this on my 97 legacy 🙏🏼🙏🏼
Dude thank you so much. My 03 legacy gt 5mt's ckutch pedal goes tonthe floor and I was freaking out because I though I installed the throwout bearing wrong!
excellent video 👍👏 finally I found an easy to understand video
I have a 2014 wrx. I've heard that if I change the master, I have to change the slave as well. Is this true?
How do you bleed the system when your alone and dont have a pneumatic air thing ?
I have a 2008 Subaru Outback 239,000 miles Clutch replaced At 136,000 Clutch pedal is soft and I can not get the gears to change. Could that be the problem It started all of a sudden no clutch smell. This is my 3rd Subaru but my first manual transmission Subaru. Thank you in advance for your support
Could be the slave or master cylinder.
Hey so do you have any tips for the bleeding process? I must be doing something wrong, I replaced the master and slave at the same time and have tried to bleed it from the slave, felt like I was pumping away for 10 minutes and nothing really changed
Have the same problem
I'm experiencing about 1/4" of free play at the top of the pedal after changing the clutch, tob, and pressure plate. Seems like my throw out bearing is probably spinning at all times. I believe there should be more like 1" to 1.5" of pedal free play.
Hey so I’m doing the master cylinder on a 2011 legacy and it’s buried underneath the pedal box. I got most of it out I just need to get the top line out and it’s almost impossible to get to. How do I get to it without taking the whole pedal assembly out?
I have this problem! Thanks
How different is this compared to a ‘07 Subaru Forester NA?
I thought you were suppose to bench bleed those before install
I think this is the reason for so many failed synchro mesh in mt5 gboxes. I managed to find a reconditioning kit for my 98 foz from ICP uk.
Quick question, I have an 06 sti that the clutch is heavy at regular rpm (idle to 4000ish) but once above that it gets reasonably soft and feels like it doesn't spring back all the way. But shifts buttery smooth at the higher rpm in comparison to lower rpm. Could it be the reservoir or clutch adjustment or even a clutch bleed?
+MaxxehZors there is no adjustment to the clutch. I'd flush and bleed the system to start with. Is the fluid clear or dark? It should be clear.
+MaxxehZors also, could have a heavy duty aftermarket clutch kit with a heavy pressure plate and clutch plate installed. That'd make the pedal heavy too. WRX and STi's clutch feel is always heavier than a normal hydraulic clutch because their factory clutch and pressure plate are more heavy duty as well.
That would make sense. The previous owner did put a new F1 premium HD clutch kit on it. Probably what it is. I'll have to check the fluid too. The car sat for about 6 months or so started, started regularly prior to me buying it, I'm wondering if that had anything to do with it too.
+MaxxehZors yup. Looks like the cause. I'd still replace the brake fluid in the master cylinder if it is dark or dirty.
What that flare nut for the steel line the same size as the bleeding screw line wrench?
I’m having the same symptoms but with the exception of reverse not going into gear like it is locked out of reverse. The rest shift in but a little harder. Could this fix my problem?
Did it fix it?
is there an difference for the 08 impreza? bc I cannot find the linkage to the pedal no snap ring, no pin visbile
+CowdreyC weird. It should be the same from what I looked up in the manual.
Hi Robert!
A question about this. Would you recommend to change clutch hydraulic circuit fluid when brake fluid is changed?
Thanks,
+torre1976 Vs yes, it is part of routine maintenance.
Ok, IDK what I am doing wrong. I have been at this for hours. Replaced my master and slave cylinders and used a 1 man bleeder kit. It feels like there isn't enough clutch pressure no matter what i do.
Unbolt the slave. Compress it in a c-clamp, not hard, just enough to hold it in the fully closed position. Open the bleeder. Pump the clutch pedal until all air is out of the line. Close the bleeder. Release the clamp. Make sure the reservoir doesn't run dry doing this. Bolt the slave back on, you should have a firm pedal.
Please help... hi i replaced both master and slave.. i even replace the rubber line pipe...i even bleed it using vacuum untill fluid is clear.. but when i pump the clutch pedal while the vacuum is on theres very fine bubbles appearing.. my clutch still have no pressure.. do i have to replace the metal line as well?.. or am i missing some rubber boching / o-ring on the pipe connections...? thanks in advance
There is no o-ring between the master and slave cylinder. The lines should be tapered at the end and seal line a brake line. The clutch has no push with the bleeder valve closed? Is the bleeder valve leaking when closed?
MrSubaru1387 there is a little bit push with bleed valve close.. clutch pedal stays on floor and i have to pull it back up
bleeder valve not leaking when close..
There's always the possibility that you may have gotten a bad new master or slave cylinder.
MrSubaru1387 thanks for the reply.. ill try to bleed it with somebody first.. and i dont know if the shop would replace bad master and slave that i bought
So I got a 97 outback legacy with the manual trans, Car wont go into gear easy and seems like 2nd is the only one I can get it into to get moving. When car is off it goes into all of them fine. Reverse grinds. Could it be the clutch master cylinder or something worse?
Could be slave, master, or something wrong with the clutch assembly itself.
Never heard of Rocky Parts. Look like OE Nabco part but without Subaru packaging. Do you have positive experience with aftermarket parts for Subaru? Some aftermarket parts are even more expensive than actual OE Subaru parts but quality differs a lot.
+Norsology I usually use OE on almost everything. I do use aftermarket/parts store cv axles. Had good luck with them. Just because OE axles are super expensive and hard to come by.
I have a 16 crosstrek (MT) and want to flush the circuit with new fluid. Can I use DOT4 instead? My unit supplies the brakes & clutch. I was thinking of a high temp brand since it gets very hot in Texas.
Use whatever the owners manual or cap says to use. Don't mix DOT 3 and DOT 4.
what’s the part no. for the brake bleeder?
Im having the same symptoms and yesterday as i was driving on highway was going to shift into 4th and it fet like the gear was floating so i popped it back into neutral and it stayed there stiff and wont go into any other gear just stiff in neutral... would this be my issue here?
How do you see the clutch master cylinder rod? My Legacy is a wagon.You camera angle is great by the way. Are laying on the passenger seat or the drivers floor board? Your video is outstanding.
+Thomswindows the clutch master cylinder rod will come through the firewall directly above the gas pedal.
Thanks, I have found it but it so darn hard to see. I was just impressed with your video showing it so well.
+Thomswindows you're welcome. Glad to help.
HOw does this instillation change if you don't have a vaccum bleeder?
+Rob Chan you'll need a friend to help you do the bleeding procedure. You will bleed it just like brakes. Press the pedal down, hold it down, have someone open and close the bleeder screw. Repeat until all air is pushed out of the bleeder.
Hello MrSubaru, I just done bleeding my clutch, the system has no air but the pedal has a bit different feel, before that it used after you push down and lift up back it used to move in smoothly close to your foot, now it moves kind of in two parts, first half moves easier and second has more pressure, for example. When I step on pedal first half is light and second to the floor has a heavier feel when pushing.. hopefully you understand what I am talking about.. do you think it will change to normal once I start the engine and get the clutch running? Tried 20x re-bleeding and just wasted bunch of fluid with zero air in system
+Tu Pimp A Caterpillar if all the air is out of the system, I'd give it a test drive. Perhaps it's a difference in the new master or slave cylinder, whichever you replaced.
MrSubaru1387 its the same master cylinder, I just took it apart to clean it throughout, have lots of dirt inside of it, but yeah I will give it a drive and hopefully it fixes the issue, Thank you for response
I am having problems getting that firm pedal feel. I work alone too. I have only hand tools and a one man brake bleeder.
I have some improved pedal height about two inches from the floor. When the slave bleeder valve is open the pedal goes to the floor and will only come back up if pull the pedal arm with some tied on webbing. I have bled the master cylinder by its valve and gotten some bubbles then. I have removed the slave with the line still on, bleeder closed and pumped the rod and checked for bubbles in the master cylinder reservoir, none. Any ideas ? All parts are new, and installed correctly.
+Thomswindows I've unbolted the slave cylinder, fully compressed the rod, and locked it gently in a c-clamp before. Then opened the bleeder and bleed as normal. After all the air escaped, tightened the bleeder, removed from the c-clamp, and reinstalled on to the transmission.
Guess what I doing tomorrow? Great idea! Thanks for the quick reply.
+Thomswindows hope it helps!
What’s the size for the line wrench
How do you bleed or remove the oil from the screw without the pneumatic bleeder?
You need 2 people: Person 1 pumps the l clutch in the car until there is good pressure then holds the clutch down. While the pedal is being held down Person 2 cracks open the bleeder valved to lets some air out then closes it again. This process is repeated until Person 2 is able to crack open the bleeder without any air coming out, only fluid.
Okay, so how do you bleed the line if you work alone and you don't have a pneumatic bleeder?
gravity bleed it. But at some point, you will need a second person to work the clutch pedal while you or the other person works the bleeder screw on the slave cylinder. Fortunately, an extra person isn't too hard to come by.
1) fill clutch hydraulic system with DOT 3 or DOT 4 brake fluid
2) open bleeder screw (allow to gravity bleed until fluid comes out bleeder screw.
3) Shut the bleeder valve
4) pump the clutch pedal with your hand until some pressure begins to build up.
5) install a brake bleeder bottle on the bleeder screw with a clear hose on it so you can check for air bubbles coming out of the slave cylinder when you break the slave cylinder bleeder screw loose.
5) hold clutch pedal to the floor
6) brake the bleeder screw loose and observe if there is any air that came out.
7) repeat steps 3, 4, 5, and 6 over and over until no air bubbles comes out of the bleeder screw.
8) pump the pedal by hand a bunch of times until normal clutch pedal feel is restored.
9) DONE
Where is that bleeder valve. Also. How can I do this without the bleeder and another person
+Rav3 G0d the bleeder is on the slave cylinder. Old trick is to coil clear tubing inside a bottle, fill the bottle part way with fresh fluid to cover the tubing, attach of end of hose to bleeder, pump until the bubbles stop.
MrSubaru1387 thank you for the quick reply. This is my next step. I am unsure if my master. Is even damaged. But my clutch has been sticking as soon as it releases from the transmission. Ie doesnt interfer with shifting but doesnt always pop back to fully extended. Gets worse if I drive in the city. Constantly shifting and such. Like earlier my range of the clutch pedal for shifting was so small and the pedal was sticking so low I got very concerned. Shifts fine in those ranges it gets stuck at. Doesn't affect me shifting either. And it's definitely not leaking fluid. Still full and no gunk above my gas pedal
+Rav3 G0d have you checked for a failing slave cylinder?
It was the slave. I replaced it and it works just fine now. You should post a video on how to bleed the clutch. Solo. While not having any special tools =3 Took me a bit to figure it out. Lol. Thank you for your suggestion
+Rav3 G0d glad to hear that you got it fixed! 👍
Do you have a link to the actual vacuum unit you are using in the video (black & red?). the one you link to on Amazon didn't create any suction whatsoever (Mityvac MV6870). I had to get it done the manual 2-step way, with a prop to hold the pedal down; because the car had to go back on the road! Now I can go make an extra zombie-dodging trip as well, for the return...
This is something I bought from Matco over a decade ago. It's was likely a Mityvac rebrand. Matco is good about that. Since all they do is rebrand.
or can i use thread tape?
Awesome video!! Just replaced the clutch on my 05 outback the pedal grabs high still. is there a procedure to bleed without the vacuum bleeder? I also replaced the slave and clutch fork because it was broken!! The kit came with a clutch master cylinder so will be replacing that as well!
How did you know the clutch fork was broken? I’m having similar issues atm don’t know if it’s that or my master cylinder needs to be changed, I did change the slave and it started going into gear but then 2 weeks later stop going into gear completely when car is on but when off the gears go in easily any help or Tips are appreciated
@@Rico.wrex559 so I actually didn’t even know for sure until I got the clutch out . It started on my way home I had no gears and couldn’t even put in gear. So When taking it apart clutch fork was broken right in middle
@@DaPhillyCarGuru damm I’m guessing that may be my issue rn but not for certain , I have changed my salve and it started working but two weeks later wouldn’t go into gear again and I’m hoping it’s my master and not my fork
I have a soft clutch pedal but I don't see any visible signs of leaking and when I press the pedal it makes a kind of a squeaking sound is it a good assumption that the master is bad still?
Sounds like the most likely cause to me.
What could cause the whole slave master to move or make a clicking noise even if it's tighten down going bad perhaps
Wrx?
Could the master cylinder be making a clicking sound? Here’s a video of the click: drive.google.com/file/d/1fj8oaax7YrfiSZTuoCRD_PLZbiQFiKNY/view?usp=drivesdk
It’s not either of the switches for the hill assist/starting car. I also thought it was the helper spring but it isn’t. I can hear the click in the engine bay as well near the master cylinder. Car is a 2018 wrx for reference.
Hey bro where is the bleeder valve? I cant locate it
It’s on the slave cylinder!!
@@michaelsmego8559 And where's that at?😂
@@theglobalistchannel1471 are you joking ? I see you laughing
Cant remove clutch line any idea?
Penetrating fluid?
@@MrSubaru1387 yes it was stuck as hell
I take it this is a lhd vehicle?
Yes.
Thanks for the reply
How long it last?
How long did what last?
No muestras como purgatory
I don;t even think my Sub has one of these. 1998 Legacy. hmmm
Possibly still has a cable clutch.
I can't locate a bleeder valve to save my life...
The master cylinder and clutch slave
What do you mean though? What mileage did they fail at, or do you mean did the replacements last?
@@MrSubaru1387 3 months Der last me
I don't understand what you're trying to say.
@@MrSubaru1387 my master cylinder and clutch slave don't last me for 3 months the water gets black fast
first
I’m gonna sound dumb, but I’m doing both slave and master cylinder tomorrow on my 04 Outback, how did you get to the clutch arm to remove the pin and retainer clip
+Travis Varner under the dash, right above the gas pedal.
Thank you man
+Travis Varner you're welcome. 👍