Bleeding the clutch the old fashioned way is a bit harder but it can be done. After attaching the clutch line you dont mount the cylinder to the transmission. You clamp the cylinder shut with a c-clamp and turn it so that the bleed valve is the highest point on the cylinder. Then attach a clear hose to valve and start pumping the clutch. When you press it it goes fully down and stays there. After pressing you colse the valve and lift the clutch. Then open the valve again and press the pedal again. Close the calve and repeat until no air bubbles are visible in the clear hose. Then close the valve, mount the cylinder to the transmission and pump the clutch pedal until it flees stiff and returns normal.
Your videos are super helpful. My clutch pedal fell flat to the floor last night so I watched your videos and turns out my master cylinder has a leak and was empty. So thank you!
When this happened was your clutch making a screech grinding noise before? Or as it was happening did the engine smell horrible and a bit of smoke came from under the hood? I ask cause this happened to me and I’m trying to figure out if i can replace my slave cylinder or if i have to drop my transmission and change the throw out bearing.
subarus seem to be very simple cars to work on. Thanks for the advice and video MrSubaru1387..keep up the great work and may your good deeds be returned to you one day
Good advice is to measure distance between the two holding bolts before ordering a new slave cylinder online. One model is 44 mm apart while the other model is 50 mm apart. This change happened around 04.2004 on Forester at least.
mine just went on my frs on the way home and i was just able to roll into my apartment lmao. i was worried to death wondering what can i do and now that i see your video its so simple haha thank you for letting me breath a little easier
Just did this mod. Super easy to do following your video. Haven't test driven yet but knock on wood that everything went well. edit: well somewhere in the clutch system it started squeaking like spongebob's shoes. shit. hopefully it's not too difficult to fix.
New sub to the channel , and i got to say , i love the avarage video lengths of your videos , very precise , interesting , no filler , good content , unlike more famous youtubers with 13-29 minute videos;( Keep up the good work
I was trying to bleed air out of a stubborn master, unbolted the slave and tried manually moving the rod in but it’s extremely slow to return.. is my slave pooched?
Hi, I just replaced the clutch of my Subaru Impreza 2003, but I need to know what the optimal cylinder travel is in relation to the pedal. if someone knew I would appreciate it very much
Please someone help me. 2018 Sti just installed act clutch . And braided steel hydraulic line with act streetlite flywheel new throw out bearing act. my clutch pedal will feel soft after driving alittle have to pump it back up hold pressure for alittle then I have to pump it up again. Seems like it’s holding then letting pressure off alittle enough to soften the pedal. Do you think changing my slave and master will fix the issue
Excellent videos! I have a 2021 Forester. Clutch pedal only goes to floor or snaps back up. No play. Changed out master and slave today. I can't seem to figure out how to connect the hydraulic line into the slave cylinder and align the slot in the bolt so that it mates up with the opening in the hose so that fluid flows into the cylinder. Made a mark on the bolt to align with hose properly but I get a spray leak when we push in the clutch. If I tighten the bolt more which causes the slot to not be aligned with the hose opening I get less of a leak but it's still spraying out. Seems like maybe there should be some washers or gasket but there weren't any to begin with and it has been working until couple days ago. Maybe I just need to buy a new hydraulic hose/line.
I have a 2012 wrx im noticing a soft clutch when I drive , but stiffens up when I have the car off doesn’t fall to the floor or anything just super soft in the engage and doesn’t have any push back when disengaging
My slave is not leaking, but I noticed that I am going through throwout bearings very quickly. I pulled motor after about 15k and an Exedy bearing was shot. I replaced it with an SKF and after 5k it was shot. I could not tell the bearings were bad in driving-- I only can tell because I had the motor out for other reasons. I am trying to figure out what is happening. My thought was perhaps the slave is not retracting fully when I get off of the clutch and thus putting pressure on the fork and then the bearing--could that be? any other ideas?
Thank you, great video dr Subaru! I used the mityvac bleeder system, I’ve bled motorcycle brakes before. But this video was spot on - I bench-bled the master, it hooked up perfectly, and I learned how to adjust my clutch pedal-master cylinder linkage
Would not being able to select any gear at all while running be a slave cylinder issue??can when cars of and hard to change but will when actually driving
So I need some help on this one, my clutch slave cylinder is over extending and getting binded/stuck fully out and not sure wether to open it up or buy a new one, need help asap please I need the car back on the road to get to work
Music? I thought this was the Mime Mechanic channel. Just kidding! I love your channel because I am caring for an '01 Forester. Thank you for taking the time and effort to do this. Do like the music.
MrSubaru1387 So how do I bleed it more when the pedal is stuck to the floor and there’s no pressure? It’s not moving the fork when clutch is pressed either. I really appreciate any input!
hey my 07 impreza 5 speed have a wired issue after i start the car a few min later the is squeaking noise that go away when i touch the clutch pedal not full press that could be the reason ? replace clutch with bearing and all around 2 years ago
So my slave cylinder is making a squeaking noise when i press the clutch about maybe 5% it goes away , does that mean i have to replace my whole clutch or can i just replace the slave cylinder?
Nice work! I have this squeeky sound when loosing the clutch pedal, leaving no pressure on it. In neutral gear. When i press the clutch pedal fully down, the sound stops. The sound occurs mostly with cold starts, but i can hear the sound when i enginebrakes or accelerating aswell. Can this be the slave cylinder? Keep up the good work! /Adam, sweden
Question: Is the cylinder supposed to be wobbly when pressing up against the pressure plate? I have a pedal on the floor on a 13 FRS and saw the reservoir empty, so I tried to add and bleed, and it bled fine, but still no kick back on the pedal and still on the floor. Could this indicate a bad slave cyl still, or could it be the clutch or anything else? Im just concerned as the plate where the slave pin pushes doesnt seem to spring back on its own.
So just took the old one slave cylinder out definitely leaking out the new slave cylinder in haven’t bled it yet since I don’t have a kit . I step on the pedal no pressure and it goes to the floor won’t come back up . There is fluid in the master cylinder full of it . Is because I haven’t bled the clutch that’s why it’s not coming back up ?
Just watched your vids on replacing clutch master & slave cylinders. Question: Have you ever had to adjust the pushrod on a master, either during normal service or after a replacement? What about after replacing the actual clutch? Are master cylinders typically "set" correctly when new? Also, thanks for producing great content!
Just subbed, I have a question. If I just unbolt the slave cylinder to lube the end of the rod while leaving the hydraulic line attached, do I still need to bleed the system?
I was replacing the Master and Slave Cylinders in the dark last night and realized I lost my copper washers! If I go buy more at the hardware store, do I get some that fit perfectly around the bolt, or should they have a little wiggle room? Thanks!
I know it's the same concept, but do you have anything on the pull style clutches? I can't get mine to move the fork enough to disengage it and the pedal doesnt reach the ground before it hits a brick wall of pressure
Hi, I have a Forester 2006 SG5 EJ204, and ran into an issue replacing this part, since the angle on the new part (LuK LSC337) pushes the clutch line onto the throttle body. What would you recommend for future part purchases to get the right fitment for my car. Car wasn't bought in US, I think is JDM version.
MrSubaru1387 one more question. I will be replacing both my master and slave cylinder. When Im done with the install will I need to bleed both the master and the slave?
Mr subaru i need you advise abaut tribeca b9 2006 it has a code ( er bb ) the car dont have problem it run very good but this code i don know can you help me
Wow i swear every video of yours i watch i fall in love with a new snap on tool lol. Your killing me with all these that i don't yet have lol. But in comparison that one appears to be on the cheaper side honestly.
Great video. I have a 2007 with a dead clutch pedal and a bad knock in the motor. Do you happen to know if I can swap out a 2011 outback motor with this one?
Is it normal for the fork to move a little when the engine is running? On my Subaru it does and it makes a high pitched noise from the metal on metal contact
MrSubaru1387 mine kind of course vibrates left to right when it's idling. Stays put when pressure is applied to the clutch pedal. I have a 2009 Forester XT with a 5 speed (same as a 09 wrx)
MrSubaru1387 the next time I take the intercooler off I will, but it just moves side to side slightly but very quickly creating a chirp/whine/belt squeeling noise unless there is some grease in the contact point
@@MrSubaru1387 Do you know what year the 2.5rs was. I want a steel clutch hose for my 08 impreza, but I cant find one anywhere. The type of slave cylinder you replaced in the video is the same one in my car, so that braided steel hose you have should work in my car too. Thank you.
Hey how are you I've got the 2014 sub STI my brake line had a small leak causing my clutch to feel soft . I tried bleeding system now the pedal went all the way to the floor & won't build compression back up look at the sleeve & it don't seem to be making contact with release bearing can you help.?
+jastweal4 the fork isn't engaging the fork? The STi has a different setup than the non-turbos. This is a push style slave cylinder. The STi uses a pull type. You may need to pump the clutch pedal by hand. Physically pull it back up and off the floor and down to bleed out the air.
Thank you so much for all your help through these videos! I have a question for you. Here's some info leading up. I bought a 1998 legacy outback with a 2.5 engine and manual transmission (174k miles). The crankshaft pulley had fallen off and damaged the inner threads, bolt, and pulley. The car has been sitting untouched about 6 months. My Forester's head gaskets blew 3 days ago so I decided to fix the legacy first. The person I bought the car from said it ran fine until the crank shaft pulley fell out. The engine repair went fine and the timing was still good. I put everything back together and the engine starts and runs fine. The problem is my clutch. The clutch pedal goes all the way to the floor and stays there unless I pull it back out with my hand. It turns out both cylinders are seized up and won't move any fluid. Is that common for the cylinders to seize up like that if the car has been sitting a while? Also, my clutch fork doesn't feel quite right (but I don't have much experience with clutches). Should I be able to engage the clutch by pushing the clutch fork by hand and someone in the car put it in gear? Or does the cylinder produce more pressure than I'll be able to by hand? I'm hoping I don't have to take the motor back out...
You can't push it by hand. The hydraulics produce more force. As for them seizing up from sitting, usually no, but age, mileage, and condition play into the equation.
+Samuel Gonzalez you bleed it like brakes. Best to have two people. One pushed the clutch pedal to the floor and holds it there while someone cracks open the bleeder on the slave cylinder and then tightens it. You lift off the clutch, depress, and hold. Again open and close the bleeder screw. Repeat until the clutch is firm.
MrSubaru1387 what if nothing comes out when I crack open the valve? I replaced the old slave cylinder on my BRZ already. I tried pumping it after I close it back up but it does the same thing. Nothing come out and my clutch springs to the floor with light pressure
+Samuel Gonzalez you may need to remove the slave, and compress it fully, rod fully depressed inside the body. Then open the bleeder, with a hose attached and pointing upwards, and pump the clutch pedal until fluid flows.
+Samuel Gonzalez unbolt the slave from the car, keep the hydraulic line attached from the master cylinder. Fully depress the slave, a c-clamp can be used, open the bleeder with a hose attached pointing upward and higher than the master cylinder. Pump the clutch fully in and out until fluid flows from the slave bleeder and up the hose. Once fluid has flowed through, close the bleeder. Make sure you don't run the master cylinder dry. Bleed the slave as normal on the car afterwards.
I got a question. About my 2002 wrx. I just bought it and noticed a problem. When going flat out on the gas pedal my car hesitates pretty bad once past 3000 RPM. The revs go up then down a bit then back up and so on. The car kinda jerks when this happens. I have cleaned the MAF and that's about it. I heard maybe to check the IACV bit I haven't had the time. I also saw a guy on YT having a similar problem but it was just the spark plugs. Which I'm pretty sure mine are good cause they looked ok when I bought it a couple weeks ago. (I will check them again jut invade I was mistaken) any help?
Looks like I need to replace mine, how would you rate this repair in terms of difficulty? Not super experienced with cars but I have been a bike mechanic for 10 years ...
I can’t for the life of me get all the air out. I’ve bench bled it so many times and so many ways but it seems the hose doesn’t get a good connection no matter how tight and how many zip ties I put on and it just bleeds air back into the system at that connection, even with different size hoses. Anyone else have this problem? I guess it’s what I get for not going oem so I got some American standard garbage.
Having the same exact issue currently with a 2017 sti. So I read up and read up. And somewhere I saw that sometimes air gets trapped and isn’t bled all the way. So to bleed it affectively you push in the slave cylinder rod and clamp it down with a c clamp or vise grips so it stays pushed in and bleed it with it pushed in. That way it bleeds the system completely. Issue is when there long lines from your master cylinder there more space to get trapped air.
Just did everything you did but nothing comes out of the slave, and clutch pedal snaps to the floor no matter how much I pump it? Any idea? I tried the c clamp method, no dice. Pedal just snaps to the floor, no pressure. Thanks
@@androidforce14 I replaced the clutch master and bench bled it. I think mine was losing pressure at the top of the stroke. Then I pushed the clutch arm forward into the slave and opened the bleeder screw at the same time. Closed the bleeder and repeat, bam, that works best
Bleeding the clutch the old fashioned way is a bit harder but it can be done. After attaching the clutch line you dont mount the cylinder to the transmission. You clamp the cylinder shut with a c-clamp and turn it so that the bleed valve is the highest point on the cylinder. Then attach a clear hose to valve and start pumping the clutch. When you press it it goes fully down and stays there. After pressing you colse the valve and lift the clutch. Then open the valve again and press the pedal again. Close the calve and repeat until no air bubbles are visible in the clear hose. Then close the valve, mount the cylinder to the transmission and pump the clutch pedal until it flees stiff and returns normal.
Your videos are super helpful. My clutch pedal fell flat to the floor last night so I watched your videos and turns out my master cylinder has a leak and was empty. So thank you!
When this happened was your clutch making a screech grinding noise before? Or as it was happening did the engine smell horrible and a bit of smoke came from under the hood? I ask cause this happened to me and I’m trying to figure out if i can replace my slave cylinder or if i have to drop my transmission and change the throw out bearing.
Mine is screeching. No smell and no smoke. Is this the part I will need?
@@cfaw21How do you know it will he the throw out bearing??
subarus seem to be very simple cars to work on. Thanks for the advice and video MrSubaru1387..keep up the great work and may your good deeds be returned to you one day
+option man thanks. That they are. One reason I love Subarus so much. Glad you enjoyed the video. 👍
MrSubaru1387 what brand pressure bleeder did you use?
+Stuart Parks Snap-on BB9008
They honestly are.
Good advice is to measure distance between the two holding bolts before ordering a new slave cylinder online. One model is 44 mm apart while the other model is 50 mm apart. This change happened around 04.2004 on Forester at least.
The only thing I needed to know was the location on the actual engine. It was the only thing you didn't show:-)
mine just went on my frs on the way home and i was just able to roll into my apartment lmao. i was worried to death wondering what can i do and now that i see your video its so simple haha thank you for letting me breath a little easier
Dude did it work? It literally happened to me today , and got lucky aswell to get it home , also have an Frs
@@IsureamFalling yeah its easy, the only pain in the ass is bleeding the slave cylinder since i was by myself
Just did this mod. Super easy to do following your video. Haven't test driven yet but knock on wood that everything went well. edit: well somewhere in the clutch system it started squeaking like spongebob's shoes. shit. hopefully it's not too difficult to fix.
New sub to the channel , and i got to say , i love the avarage video lengths of your videos , very precise , interesting , no filler , good content , unlike more famous youtubers with 13-29 minute videos;(
Keep up the good work
+Abdulwahab Bastaki thanks. Glad you enjoy the videos.
I was trying to bleed air out of a stubborn master, unbolted the slave and tried manually moving the rod in but it’s extremely slow to return.. is my slave pooched?
Hi, I just replaced the clutch of my Subaru Impreza 2003, but I need to know what the optimal cylinder travel is in relation to the pedal. if someone knew I would appreciate it very much
Should we grease the inside cylinder? Doing mines today.
Please someone help me. 2018 Sti just installed act clutch . And braided steel hydraulic line with act streetlite flywheel new throw out bearing act.
my clutch pedal will feel soft after driving alittle have to pump it back up hold pressure for alittle then I have to pump it up again. Seems like it’s holding then letting pressure off alittle enough to soften the pedal. Do you think changing my slave and master will fix the issue
Excellent videos! I have a 2021 Forester. Clutch pedal only goes to floor or snaps back up. No play. Changed out master and slave today. I can't seem to figure out how to connect the hydraulic line into the slave cylinder and align the slot in the bolt so that it mates up with the opening in the hose so that fluid flows into the cylinder. Made a mark on the bolt to align with hose properly but I get a spray leak when we push in the clutch. If I tighten the bolt more which causes the slot to not be aligned with the hose opening I get less of a leak but it's still spraying out. Seems like maybe there should be some washers or gasket but there weren't any to begin with and it has been working until couple days ago.
Maybe I just need to buy a new hydraulic hose/line.
Hmmmm. After looking at the replacement for slave cylinder hose I see that there should be seals. Maybe this is my issue with the leak.
I have a 2012 wrx im noticing a soft clutch when I drive , but stiffens up when I have the car off doesn’t fall to the floor or anything just super soft in the engage and doesn’t have any push back when disengaging
My slave is not leaking, but I noticed that I am going through throwout bearings very quickly. I pulled motor after about 15k and an Exedy bearing was shot. I replaced it with an SKF and after 5k it was shot. I could not tell the bearings were bad in driving-- I only can tell because I had the motor out for other reasons.
I am trying to figure out what is happening. My thought was perhaps the slave is not retracting fully when I get off of the clutch and thus putting pressure on the fork and then the bearing--could that be? any other ideas?
Hey bro I did the exact thing but the pedal still stays stuck any ideas? Thanks
Mine screeches when pressing the clutch. Is this the part I need or is it some a bit more major??
Thank you, great video dr Subaru! I used the mityvac bleeder system, I’ve bled motorcycle brakes before. But this video was spot on - I bench-bled the master, it hooked up perfectly, and I learned how to adjust my clutch pedal-master cylinder linkage
Does replacing the slave cylinder also solve the problem of the squealing clutch?
Nah that could be your throw out bearing if you hear a squeak when you depress the clutch.
The copper washer, I inadvertently left it out when I replaced the slave cylinder but it’s not leaking. So is it necessary???
Where did you get the pneumatic vacuum bleeder?
Matco.
Would not being able to select any gear at all while running be a slave cylinder issue??can when cars of and hard to change but will when actually driving
One question ... where is the slave cylinder located? Near the transmission I am guessing.
So I need some help on this one, my clutch slave cylinder is over extending and getting binded/stuck fully out and not sure wether to open it up or buy a new one, need help asap please I need the car back on the road to get to work
Music? I thought this was the Mime Mechanic channel. Just kidding! I love your channel because I am caring for an '01 Forester. Thank you for taking the time and effort to do this. Do like the music.
+Andrea Echevarria thank. Glad you enjoyed the video.
I did this just now and the first pump of the clutch pedal, it went to the floor and stayed there. Any help is greatly appreciated
There's still air in the lines. You'll need to bleed it more.
MrSubaru1387 So how do I bleed it more when the pedal is stuck to the floor and there’s no pressure? It’s not moving the fork when clutch is pressed either. I really appreciate any input!
@@joshaugustine7905 pull it back up
these videos are very helpful, please keep them up!!
+Travis Hurd thank you. Glad you enjoyed the videos.
Im stuggleing with the bleeding part HELP PLEASE ANY ONE
hey my 07 impreza 5 speed have a wired issue after i start the car a few min later the is squeaking noise that go away when i touch the clutch pedal not full press that could be the reason ?
replace clutch with bearing and all around 2 years ago
Can you grease the pivot ball without having to remove the transmission?
Is there a cheaper place to get one of those "nabco" made in japan slave cylinders? The one in this video looks like it comes in a different box.
Purchased from Amazon, rather than Subaru.
So my slave cylinder is making a squeaking noise when i press the clutch about maybe 5% it goes away , does that mean i have to replace my whole clutch or can i just replace the slave cylinder?
Nice work!
I have this squeeky sound when loosing the clutch pedal, leaving no pressure on it. In neutral gear. When i press the clutch pedal fully down, the sound stops. The sound occurs mostly with cold starts, but i can hear the sound when i enginebrakes or accelerating aswell.
Can this be the slave cylinder?
Keep up the good work!
/Adam, sweden
What is that bit on the impact?
what type of pressure bleeder is that
+cory dworzan Snap-on BB9018
Question: Is the cylinder supposed to be wobbly when pressing up against the pressure plate? I have a pedal on the floor on a 13 FRS and saw the reservoir empty, so I tried to add and bleed, and it bled fine, but still no kick back on the pedal and still on the floor. Could this indicate a bad slave cyl still, or could it be the clutch or anything else?
Im just concerned as the plate where the slave pin pushes doesnt seem to spring back on its own.
So you always bleed the system from the slave cyl whether replacing master cyl, line, or slave cyl?
So just took the old one slave cylinder out definitely leaking out the new slave cylinder in haven’t bled it yet since I don’t have a kit . I step on the pedal no pressure and it goes to the floor won’t come back up . There is fluid in the master cylinder full of it . Is because I haven’t bled the clutch that’s why it’s not coming back up ?
You have to bleed it or it won't work. It's full of air. Hydraulic system with air in it doesn't work.
Thank you that’s what I figure I had to do . Any type of clutch bleed kit would do ?
When your bleeding, should it be in 1st gear or neutral?
+odnal13 doesn't matter.
Excellent video! Thanks for posting!
How would I bleed it without that tool?
Brake fluid??
Just watched your vids on replacing clutch master & slave cylinders. Question: Have you ever had to adjust the pushrod on a master, either during normal service or after a replacement? What about after replacing the actual clutch? Are master cylinders typically "set" correctly when new? Also, thanks for producing great content!
Just subbed, I have a question. If I just unbolt the slave cylinder to lube the end of the rod while leaving the hydraulic line attached, do I still need to bleed the system?
No.
I was replacing the Master and Slave Cylinders in the dark last night and realized I lost my copper washers! If I go buy more at the hardware store, do I get some that fit perfectly around the bolt, or should they have a little wiggle room? Thanks!
You want a little space between the washer and bolt, but make sure it's small enough to seal to the slave and hose.
Okay. Thanks for the help!
Oem p/n for the gaskets should be 114130151.
MrSubaru1387 Oh nice. Yeah maybe I'll just swing by Subaru today and get them on the way home. Thanks again, good sir!
You're welcome. 👍🏻
I replaced my master cylinder and leave cylinder and my car still does not won’t to go into gear when running... I need help
Hi Mr Subaru. On my Forester there’s a clutch brake mechanism. Do you have any videos on this? Thanks
Got this same deal on my 98 legacy 2.2 did you figure it out cause its holding me up on my clutch fork adjustment
Assuming this is being done with the motor/trans out of the car? On my 02 Legacy GT I cant find my slave as easy as this
Ignore my comment I was looking farther in the trans tunnel, didnt properly trace the lome to see it under my airbox
I know it's the same concept, but do you have anything on the pull style clutches? I can't get mine to move the fork enough to disengage it and the pedal doesnt reach the ground before it hits a brick wall of pressure
Hi, I have a Forester 2006 SG5 EJ204, and ran into an issue replacing this part, since the angle on the new part (LuK LSC337) pushes the clutch line onto the throttle body. What would you recommend for future part purchases to get the right fitment for my car. Car wasn't bought in US, I think is JDM version.
Is there another way to bleed the line?
Aquarium hose and 1 of those bigger syringe style deals. Like a motorcycle bleeder. Manual version of his
I dont know where on my 06 Legacy GT it is located. Video didnt give a zoomed out location to identify where it sits.
Tip of the transmission above the starter, to the right or and below the throttle body.
so will this fix the problem that my wrx won’t go into gear when the car is on?
It's a possibility. I can't say for sure what your problem is.
Hey I have a 2008 impreza. I know where the master cylinder is but where exactly is the slave cylinder? Thank you so much!!
+connor mackenzie it on top of the transmission, drivers side, near the bell housing.
MrSubaru1387 thank you so much! I found it. Replacing it this weekend using your great videos!
+connor mackenzie awesome. Glad to have helped.
MrSubaru1387 one more question. I will be replacing both my master and slave cylinder. When Im done with the install will I need to bleed both the master and the slave?
+connor mackenzie yes, you will.
Mr subaru i need you advise abaut tribeca b9 2006 it has a code ( er bb ) the car dont have problem it run very good but this code i don know can you help me
+osmani enriquez Er bb is a brake booster code. There's an issue with the brake booster or brake vacuum.
Wow i swear every video of yours i watch i fall in love with a new snap on tool lol. Your killing me with all these that i don't yet have lol. But in comparison that one appears to be on the cheaper side honestly.
+Thomas Hammond which tool is that?
MrSubaru1387 the break bleeder. Very cool for when you are in a hurry!
+Thomas Hammond ah. Yes, it's super helpful.
Where can I get a tool like that?
@@icecreampusha i got mine from snap on's website directly.
Great video. I have a 2007 with a dead clutch pedal and a bad knock in the motor. Do you happen to know if I can swap out a 2011 outback motor with this one?
I believe you can, but make sure it is an EJ. 2011-2012 was when they switched to the FB engines.
Is it normal for the fork to move a little when the engine is running? On my Subaru it does and it makes a high pitched noise from the metal on metal contact
+Booki move in what way?
MrSubaru1387 mine kind of course vibrates left to right when it's idling. Stays put when pressure is applied to the clutch pedal. I have a 2009 Forester XT with a 5 speed (same as a 09 wrx)
+Booki anyway you could shoot a video and email it to me? MrSubaru1387@gmail.com.
MrSubaru1387 the next time I take the intercooler off I will, but it just moves side to side slightly but very quickly creating a chirp/whine/belt squeeling noise unless there is some grease in the contact point
Where did you find the stainless steel slave cylinder line?
Honestly can't remember now. Some Subaru performance parts place. Was for a 2.5RS Impreza.
@@MrSubaru1387 Do you know what year the 2.5rs was. I want a steel clutch hose for my 08 impreza, but I cant find one anywhere. The type of slave cylinder you replaced in the video is the same one in my car, so that braided steel hose you have should work in my car too. Thank you.
What size is the wrench for the bleeder valve
I think it was an 8mm. Can't remember exactly.
Hey how are you I've got the 2014 sub STI my brake line had a small leak causing my clutch to feel soft .
I tried bleeding system now the pedal went all the way to the floor & won't build compression back up look at the sleeve & it don't seem to be making contact with release bearing can you help.?
+jastweal4 the fork isn't engaging the fork? The STi has a different setup than the non-turbos. This is a push style slave cylinder. The STi uses a pull type. You may need to pump the clutch pedal by hand. Physically pull it back up and off the floor and down to bleed out the air.
Tried all types of ways bleeding but it doesn't seem to be get any better..maybe the sleeve is bad..
+jastweal4 have you tried bleeding the master cylinder separately first?
Great Videos. Should the clutch fork have play in it ?
+paddlethis1 yes, the clutch fork has some play.
Thank you so much for all your help through these videos! I have a question for you. Here's some info leading up. I bought a 1998 legacy outback with a 2.5 engine and manual transmission (174k miles). The crankshaft pulley had fallen off and damaged the inner threads, bolt, and pulley. The car has been sitting untouched about 6 months. My Forester's head gaskets blew 3 days ago so I decided to fix the legacy first. The person I bought the car from said it ran fine until the crank shaft pulley fell out. The engine repair went fine and the timing was still good. I put everything back together and the engine starts and runs fine. The problem is my clutch. The clutch pedal goes all the way to the floor and stays there unless I pull it back out with my hand. It turns out both cylinders are seized up and won't move any fluid. Is that common for the cylinders to seize up like that if the car has been sitting a while? Also, my clutch fork doesn't feel quite right (but I don't have much experience with clutches). Should I be able to engage the clutch by pushing the clutch fork by hand and someone in the car put it in gear? Or does the cylinder produce more pressure than I'll be able to by hand? I'm hoping I don't have to take the motor back out...
You can't push it by hand. The hydraulics produce more force. As for them seizing up from sitting, usually no, but age, mileage, and condition play into the equation.
You made it easy, that's the key. Agurrak,
Did you have the clutch pressed in when bleeding it?
+Samuel Gonzalez you bleed it like brakes. Best to have two people. One pushed the clutch pedal to the floor and holds it there while someone cracks open the bleeder on the slave cylinder and then tightens it. You lift off the clutch, depress, and hold. Again open and close the bleeder screw. Repeat until the clutch is firm.
MrSubaru1387 what if nothing comes out when I crack open the valve? I replaced the old slave cylinder on my BRZ already. I tried pumping it after I close it back up but it does the same thing. Nothing come out and my clutch springs to the floor with light pressure
+Samuel Gonzalez you may need to remove the slave, and compress it fully, rod fully depressed inside the body. Then open the bleeder, with a hose attached and pointing upwards, and pump the clutch pedal until fluid flows.
MrSubaru1387 ok, so remove the slave, keep it fully depressed and while still holding the rod down connect back the hydraulic line?
+Samuel Gonzalez unbolt the slave from the car, keep the hydraulic line attached from the master cylinder. Fully depress the slave, a c-clamp can be used, open the bleeder with a hose attached pointing upward and higher than the master cylinder. Pump the clutch fully in and out until fluid flows from the slave bleeder and up the hose. Once fluid has flowed through, close the bleeder. Make sure you don't run the master cylinder dry. Bleed the slave as normal on the car afterwards.
I got a question. About my 2002 wrx. I just bought it and noticed a problem. When going flat out on the gas pedal my car hesitates pretty bad once past 3000 RPM. The revs go up then down a bit then back up and so on. The car kinda jerks when this happens. I have cleaned the MAF and that's about it. I heard maybe to check the IACV bit I haven't had the time. I also saw a guy on YT having a similar problem but it was just the spark plugs. Which I'm pretty sure mine are good cause they looked ok when I bought it a couple weeks ago. (I will check them again jut invade I was mistaken) any help?
Oh and the car is automatic. I believe it may have been rebuilt in the past. It only has 120K.
+J Wreckk any codes?
MrSubaru1387 just an exhaust temp one I think. I forgot the exact one. The car is all stock too btw
+J Wreckk hmm. Strange. Does it feel like the transmission is slipping or it's the engine acting up?
MrSubaru1387 I don't know what that feels like but I don't think it's the transmission. At least I hope not.
Great informative video!
Looks like I need to replace mine, how would you rate this repair in terms of difficulty? Not super experienced with cars but I have been a bike mechanic for 10 years ...
+Rob Chan quite simply to replace. Hardest part is bleeding the system.
Thanks pal, OEM or non oem for replacement?
+Rob Chan either should be fine.
Приветствую, что за устройство такое для прокачки воздуха из системы?
+Егор Высоченко Snap-on BB9008
I can’t for the life of me get all the air out. I’ve bench bled it so many times and so many ways but it seems the hose doesn’t get a good connection no matter how tight and how many zip ties I put on and it just bleeds air back into the system at that connection, even with different size hoses. Anyone else have this problem? I guess it’s what I get for not going oem so I got some American standard garbage.
Having the same exact issue currently with a 2017 sti. So I read up and read up. And somewhere I saw that sometimes air gets trapped and isn’t bled all the way. So to bleed it affectively you push in the slave cylinder rod and clamp it down with a c clamp or vise grips so it stays pushed in and bleed it with it pushed in. That way it bleeds the system completely. Issue is when there long lines from your master cylinder there more space to get trapped air.
So you ain't gonna tell us where it's at?
If you don't know where it is, you probably should be attempting to replace it. It's on top of the transmission, drives side.
Turbo is a different one, but I get the idea :(
My man!
good video is easy thank
+osmani enriquez glad you enjoyed the video
I am fanatic of the subaru and your videos are very good I say that possibly today I buy a triberca b9 2006 yo amo subaru
I am fanatic of the subaru and your videos are very good I say that possibly today I buy a triberca b9 2006 i love subaru
Why all that? Why not just spring action?
Caveman technology
First
Alright if its a wrx my 04 sti is a bitch
+KEV PARDEY yea, STi uses a pull rather than a push fork.
Hey bro I did the exact thing but the pedal still stays stuck any ideas? Thanks
Just did everything you did but nothing comes out of the slave, and clutch pedal snaps to the floor no matter how much I pump it? Any idea? I tried the c clamp method, no dice. Pedal just snaps to the floor, no pressure.
Thanks
Did you figure it out having the same issue
@@androidforce14 I replaced the clutch master and bench bled it. I think mine was losing pressure at the top of the stroke. Then I pushed the clutch arm forward into the slave and opened the bleeder screw at the same time. Closed the bleeder and repeat, bam, that works best
Hi Mr Subaru. On my Forester there’s a clutch brake mechanism. Do you have any videos on this? Thanks