I have honda 2007 si, replace CMC & slave. For a week I'm trying to bleed this system.I listen to other TH-camrs from gavity draining , vacuum pump & pedal pumping to no prevail. These guys at Perfectionclutch got it right, within 10 mins I had it done. Clutch system working. Hats Off gentlemen, thank you
@@morrissongroundworks4920Did you have any luck? My husband and I are experiencing the same right now. Bleed clutch fluid. When we go to replace fluid and bleed through a little to make sure no air in the lines the clutch won't build pressure while pumping and bleed basically stops.
This vid rocks. If you can't bleed your MC or SC no matter how hard you try and the clutch pedal still goes to the floor...bleeding the Slave by blocking it in a C-clamp is the solution! This saved me from super frustration! Thank you!
1998 Isuzu Amigo: Bleeding the way stated in the book, it was just like you said, tiny burps. After 30 minutes and probably 300 pumps of the clutch, still no pressure. Followed your directions, clamped it, and got immediate pressure. Unclamped it, bolted it back and, and it bleed correctly. Took maybe 10 minutes to complete. YOU SAVED THE DAY!
I simply install a hose from the bleed screw to a suitable electric vacuum pump source with a collection jar and adjust for light vacuum. Keep the master full to prevent air intrusion. It will easily draw all air and new fluid through the lines and slave cyl. in a few seconds. No helper needed. Works for brake bleeding too.
Thanks for taking the time to demonstrate this technique. I was having a really difficult time getting the air out of a new system. This did the trick!
Have been trying to get my truck back on the road for awhile now. Have tried a number of ways with minimal results at best. This was the last effort before taking the transmission out and replacing the slave. Its a 94 F150 with 5.8. Four wheel drive. Five speed. Thank you. This was a life saver. Well at least alot of time and busted knuckles anyway. Thanks again.
This (C-clamp & socket) worked great for me on my 2003 Nissan Frontier truck when bleeding a newly installed slave cylinder. Before I found this video I was having great difficulty getting the trapped air out of the slave cylinder. Thank you!
Fantastic! after hours of bleeding the clutch with usual methods I still had air in the line / soft pedal low engagement. With this method and 1 1/2 press of the pedal I got a pea sized bubble out, now have a firm pedal with very little play and mid point engagement. Thanks Perfection Hytest.
Really worked on my Honda Civic slave cylinder replacement. After hours of trying to bleed with no progress, I watched this video & simply clamped the clutch lever all together with the slave cylinder in situ, & voila after two pedal strokes, job finished. Thanks for posting!
I'm going through the same issue with my Honda Civic 2004. I'm glad this method worked for you I'm going to give it a try. Did you end up having to use a small socket?
that note about the VW fork stop trick should come in very handy! Can't find any other mention about that online, but I found pictures of the inside of the hole. Good little tip!
On my 2005 Infiniti G35 I blocked the slave cylinder by wedging a large square shaft screwdriver in between the piston shaft and the clutch lever on the transmission housing. Then I opened the slave bleed screw with a clear vinyl hose attached and had a helper slowly depress the clutch pedal and it will purge air bubbles from the clutch line.
I have a 1994 C4 Chevrolet Corvette with the hydraulic clutch system. These systems are self bleeding. The bleeding process is quite simple. 1) Remove the master cylinder cap then remove the rubber boot from the cap. 2) Loosely reinstall the master cylinder cap without the rubber boot. This will allow air to escape the master cylinder reservoir. 3) Now pump the clutch until no more air bubbles are expelled. 4) Remove the master cylinder cap and reinstall the rubber boot onto the cap. 5) Reinstall master cylinder cap. The system is now bled. This method is the GM recommended method as per the GM Service Manual. I purchased a billet aluminum master cylinder for which the cap has a tiny pin hole on it which makes the bleeding process an ongoing process, I never get air in my clutch lines as it is constantly bleeding itself and it doesn't make a mess.
What a fantastic video, confirmed that this works on a Toyota supra. Before doing this the slave just kept making a loud clicking noise until I clamped it and got a nice flush. Thankyou
You are completely right. Slave cylinders should be bled the same way as a brake caliper. When the caliper is mounted the pots don't extend when the pedal is depressed and all the air comes out. Thank you. Not even the factory manual says that. Now i have to go and bleed the slave cylinder the correct way.
Dear Perfection Hytest, just wanted to than you for this illustrative video. It help me a lot to replace both, MC and SC on my Nissan X-Terra 2001 Manual and, of course it works in many Nissan trucks and Suv's. Using the exact C Clamp you have, Following your advise, I just blocked the brand new Duralast Slave Cylinder i got on AutoZone, connected to the line,... it was hanging for a while until the pedal was little by little releasing from the floor, after some pumping action and releasing some fluid/air. When I saw it was getting some pressure, I call my wife for help. Before i did it manually. And very important, way before I install the Master Cylinder i connected a rubber hose that went from the outlet back to the reservoir, so i was pumping it out of the car and get rid of any air inside the MC first, then it was attached to the firewall>> pedal. Thanks again!
Thank you for taking the time to explain in easy straight forward terms. I have worked on many vehicles, never on a clutch or related. Good examples of home engineering safely minded. Thanks again-
Very interesting and great info! I fitted a braided steel slave cylinder line this afternoon to my Nissan Z car and then spent about 3 hours trying to bleed it. I see precisely what you are talking about here on my car... the slave moves in and out a little bit when the pedal is pumped, but it's as if the master does not have enough travel/volume to fill the fluid/pressure void in the line. Thus, blocking the slave cylinder is an excellent idea!! I will try this tomorrow and if that fails, maybe it's time to rebuild the master cylinder. I've had old brake master cylinders go bad before when the pedal hits the floor and the seals push past the usual travel/wear area into a ridge of hardened dirt/varnish etc... Hopefully it's not that...
+perfectionclutch Your technique worked just perfect Gary! Took a number of pumps to get the pedal back once the slave was blocked and this time there was plenty of pressurized air bubbles and fluid when the bleed screw was opened 4 or 5 times. Thanks a million for this video, it saved me taking advice from people telling me my master and probably slave had gone bad. Cheers
+ArchimedeanEye I have a 2006 nissan 350z and I just installed the JWT clutch kit with braided steel slave cylinder line. I've been bleeding forever now...did this method work for you??
I really like this idea. My 96 Nissan pu has the same issue. Replaced both cylinders, blocked off the slave cylinder and still no pedal. I'm stumped. No signs of leakage.
What an innovative & interesting idea! Just replaced my clutch master cylinder & have been cussing it for the last 20 minutes. It's too cold & dark to continue tonight but I'm gonna see if I can set up a block on mine. Thanks for the info!
Used a Dewalt clamp on the slave cylinder on the my Toyota pickup to bleed the clutch system. Worked great and have good pressure in the system now! Great method!
this ROCKS! I put a honda engine in my fiat x19 and have a hydraulic to cable converter (allows my hydraulic system to puch the lever on the trans) but it puts the bleed nipple at the bottom making it almost impossible to bleed. this method alloes me to take the slave off, bleed it, then put it back in!
After you do this technique, when do you release the piston and install it on the car? Should the pedal be up or down when you release it? Is there a danger of putting too much fluid in the system?
What if you open the bleeder screw on the slave cylinder, push the pedal to the floor, and close it up the release? It seems to work the same way as this.
Thanks for this! My husband and I are having an issue refilling clutch fluid properly after a full bleed. 2012 Civic. We're trying to refill clutch fluid while bleeding it to make sure no air if left in the lines. (No vacuum) Pedal wont build pressure when we pump it...seems like it will bleed briefly then stop. Thanks so much! Ill show him this. 👍👍👍👍
Great video! I was wondering after you’ve compressed the slave cylinder to bleed it out, how do you put it back in the transmission cam? Still compressed or you let it extend it to put it back?
Why would Ford Focus put the "slave cylinder" inside the clutch if the "slave cylinder" was going to break a seal sooner than any other part of my clutch hydraulic system?
Great.I had a hard time today trying to bleed the clucth in my 1991 mazda pick up.I'll mess with it tomorrow again, this time with the advise that I just saw here.thank you
The factory service manual for my honda car emphasizes the use of a wooden block to block the slave cylinder from moving out while to pump the pedal so all the air can be completely bled from the system .
I miss the old days. Put a foot long piece of hose on the bleeder straight up and pump the clutch pedal. Some air went up and some air went out the hose but it was quick and easy. I had a leaky slave cylinder bought a new one and was done in 15 minutes. Last manual transmission I owned but it was easy. B2000 not to complicated.
perfectionclutch Thankyou for replying. The slave looks very similar to the first Civic cylinder in your demonstration. I've been weeks on this and changed both cylinders. This looks much better than my last resort.... pushing upwards with a syringe.
Hello. I have replaced the master and slave in my 89 4Runner. When I did the block bleed I put a socket into the system to keep the plunger in the slave pinned back. I think I ran too deep of a socket. So I set the volume of brake fluid in the system too low. Is there a way to increase the volume of fluid without re-block bleeding?
+perfectionclutch Thanks for your response, Gary. The slave is on the passenger side of the vehicle so it has 60" of flexible hydraulic line feeding it. After the I had installed everything I took the slave back off the truck and kept the master cylinder installed. I dropped the slave to the ground on the drivers side and made sure I had a consistent rise to the hose. I then cycled the slave cylinder and did get a lot of air out of it as well as a lot of turbulence in the fluid. The clevis was loose too. I started to get half a pedal of pressure then it went soft. Looks like I blew the seal in the master cylinder, so it's off to get another one this afternoon. Seems like I over worked it, but not really sure how...
+perfectionclutch Yes, this is proper config hosing. Designed specifically for 4runner clutches. I will try again. This weekend. I have never had such a problem bleeding a clutch or brake system...
Why cant you just hold the clutch down, draw a vacuum on the slave bleeder valve and suck out the fluid until it's clean and bubble free? (Like you do brakes?) A piece of wood to hold the clutch pedal and all you need to do is keep the reservoir full of DOT3. What am I missing here? This method sounds overly complicated.
I have a 2010 Mustang I would like to learn how to bleed the clutch system it's integrated with the master cylinder.. it's a V6 5-speed how would I bleed the clutch system
I replace transmission gear fluid 75 / 90 as require in my miata 1992, then I pulled the stick shift and add gear fluid and shift dont work. only work when the car is not running, after I start it and run the shift dont work. what is the problem does it need to be bleed or clutch problem please help
my wife was on her way to work this morning in her 08 Subaru Impreza 2.5 and after driving 4 miles into town, she started to turn into sheetz and the clutch pedal went to the floor. A couple guys at sheetz tried helping her...they 1st tried adding fluid and having her pump the clutch, when they did this the fluid ran out (onto the ground ) as fast as they put it in! so I'm thinking hole in the line between master and slave? (I wasn't there to see for myself ) or could it be a bad slave? 1st Subaru we've ever owned....we have so much snow right now it's hard to find anything. your opinion would be appreciated! thanks!
This may be pure gold. I have a mid 90's Toyota truck with a master / slave set up exactly like this and while Ive bled it many times I am still having shift issues. I don't really know what spongy feels like but I'm having hard shifting into 1st, 1st to 2nd, and reverse especially. I'm going to try this as maybe there's a small bubble somewhere causing the slave not to push as hard as it should.
I have a 89 toyota pu 3.0 sr5 .I changed out the master and slave and now I have no pedal after bleeding 100 times.Do I try to put a clamp on the slave on or off the vehicle?
i just replaced the master and slave cylinders. and my pedal doesnt come all the way up. at a time i was able to get into gears even reverse. but when we bled it again and opened the bleeder (traditional way) pumped a few times, now the car wont go into gears again. do you think there is still some air?
Just like brakes. Very informative, thank you. Now I wont use a 40HP gas dirt tamper jammed in my drivers seat to pump the clutch pedal while I frantically open and close the slave cylinder bleed screw. JK LOL. Stay gold.
Thank you so much my slave cylinder was messed up so I replace it and I couldn't get to bleed it but with the c clamp dude it worked right away u are a life saver thank you so much
I have a 92 civic. will be changing the clutch master cylinder and slave. after I do so, I fill up the master cylinder, pull the pin and boot from the new slave and clamp it with a c-clamp. open the bleeder on the slave, push the clutch pedal down, close the bleeder, put the clutch pedal up, repeat the process till just fluid comes out. take off the c-clamp, install the boot and pin, hook up the slave to the clutch fork and I'm done??
I'm trying to bleed the clutch on my Audi a6, its much like described in the video, I have tried gravity, pressure pumped through the bleeder, negative pressure through the bleeder, traditionally method, and its not working. the pedal is soft until near the floor then too stiff to even go to the floor. anybody got some input? do the symptoms point to any bad part of the system? I'm quite sure doing this method will run the risk of cracking the slave cylinder due to the fact that its plastic. It's also nearly impossible to work this method because it's so hard to get to the slave cylinder which is on top of the transmission. also I tried running a line from the bleeder screw into the reservoir and pumping the s*** out of the pedal, didn't work either I'm at the end of my rope here.
+perfectionclutch its a 2000 a6 2.7t 6 speed manual, I spent the day bleeding the clutch including removing the slave and clapping it which gives me full pedal, the slave however is easy to push the piston in after doing so with some hydraulic resistance and springs back out instantly. I hear a squish sound as the piston is pushed back in the last bit...
I tried bleeding the system by pushing the rod in ( unbolted from transmission) then I noticed the slave takes forever to pop back out.. is it pooched?
I have a Nissan Froniter 2007. I tried this, it help but I still seem to have air in the system. Replaced both the Master and Slave. So I clamp the slave and slowly press the clutch pedal. It gets have down and I open the bleed value and fluid comes out and the pedal goes to the bottom. So we pull the pedal up. It seems to work for a few presses and then gets soft and the pedal does not return to the top. I then open the bleed value and have a vacuum pump on it and it bubbles out. Any thoughts?
Over in the UK here, this is proper helpful tech advice. I'm about to take a chance on a 2007 Fiat Punto for £100, guy can't bleed a new clutch install and I was sure I could figure out the issues. These Fiats are notoriously hard for both being hard to bleed, to maintain pressure after bleeding without losing the pedal in a short while and needing a re-bleed. I suspect the advice I just got here and some creativity may well massively. I will ask, it has what is called a HYD valve fitted in the middle. I'm taking a guess this is supposed to control flow, maybe one way etc, big round thing that I suspect may be an air trap. Any advice on these or if you know of anything similar in the form of an inline device, halfway along the length of the line. Appears to be 2 bleed points, one on the master and one on the slave cylinder. I'll be replacing all O-Rings on the complete line as a matter of caution, seeing as they're pennies and could be 12 years old now. I'll be flushing the system with a quality fluid. Many thanks, Paul
I think this might be the best way to do mine... Been trying the buck and hold and getting nothing afterwards...didn't help that there was a hole in the line and it was letting all the fluid out...
@@perfectionclutch ****Thank You Very Much!!! I've got a 98 Isuzu Rodeo and I CAN NOT >>>NO MATTER WHAT I >>Or My Husband **whom is my teacher, & really good with all of this stuff, Or both of us together TRY!!!
@@jenibyrns145 simple answer is to buy a cheap hand operated vacuum bleed kit and just have it draw fluid through past the master cylinder through the lines and the slave cylinder until it draws all the air out and only fluid comes out then tighten bleed nipple and pump up the pedal (always making sure the hydraulic reservoir never get close to running dry)
THANKS I did have some experience with this problem when, a few years back I fitted a new slave cylinder to my 1967 Toyota Carinaa now I am fitting a new master cylinder. One "hell ova job," as one must remove a part of the dash board to get at the linkage and remove two nuts which hold the master cylinder to the firewall. Fortunately althouogh 87 yrs old I am not overweight so removing the driverers seat allows me to lie on my back ! I can not see any other way to do the job, I recon a garage would charge for a min of twwo hours , the new master cylinder was £130.
So I was trying to purge my clutch cylinder and I guess I don't know what I was doing because I removes the plug where you bledd it and now my clutch paddle is all the way down and now I don't know what to Do? Can you help? Thank you..
I tried this method yesterday and I am not having any luck at all with this thing.... Yesterday I Filled the Clutch Master Cylinder Reservoir, Blocked the Slave Cylinder and then opened the Bleed screw on the Slave.... I thought fluid should just drain thru at that point....but No, I hooked up a Vacuum pump and sucked fluid thru it....but the Reservoir level didn't move. I messed with all kinds of different ideas...I was getting lots of air bubbles....not sure if the rubber hose was leaking or what but I still had no luck. Yes, I did loosen the Master Cylinder Plunger rod hoping that would help...NO good. Next is a pack of Matches ! I have 1993 Toyota T100 3.0 V6 5 speed 4x4 with the same problem as Jeff who Commented below. I replaced the Clutch Master Cylinder and Slave Cylinder twice...then I decided to Replace the Clutch, Pressure Plate throw out bearing with a Stage 2 system. Now I still have the same damned problem. No clutch pedal pressure at all ! I also had to replace the Clutch Pedal assembly under the dash....as it was cracked in 3 or 4 places....then I noticed the Firewall behind the Clutch Master Cylinder was Cracked too.( I cut out a piece of 3/16 steel and re-inforced that too)... Amazing....I had just recently bought this truck and it ran OK and looked great... I replaced all of the Front end stuff too while I was in there... All I am getting is about 1/2 inch movement on the Clutch Arm on the Transmission. Now all I want is to get it to move ! GREAT VIDEO...LIKED/SUBSCRIBED !
@@perfectionclutch Gary...Thanks a Bunch Brother...my son is coming down to help me tomorrow or Wednesday....I will do everything you suggested ! I am just about out of other options....I did order 25 feet of 3/16 brake line on Ebay... and bought bending tools at Harbor Freight yesterday just incase I don't get any positive results bleeding ! I'll let you know how it goes ! Thanks agin !
I mean it's not really better it's just slightly faster... But unless there is a issue doing maybe 4 pump n bleeds per side is all u need. This would take longer to setup than the extra 2 open/closes... Better and safer to use a mityvac pump to do it yourself and done. But even this method may leak in air through the hose, since none seal perfectly
Im confused sorry. I block off the slave cylinder and press and release And top the reservoir. Or do I press hold open the valve like normal. Thank you for the help.
I could use some help on bleeding the new slave cylinder and new master cylinder on a Toyota MR2 Turbo. Because it’s mid-engine, it’s got a very long hydraulic line from the front to the rear of the car. Also, the bleeder screw is not on the slave. It’s located about 6” higher on the transmission - this can’t be good for getting all of the air out. My issue is not with releasing the clutch and selecting a gear, it’s actually at startup I’ve developed an alarming chatter when I start the car that goes away fairly quickly. Am I correct in assuming the slave cylinder might be at fault? The problem started immediately after I replaced the slave cylinder.
I am at my wit's end. 98 Honda Accord LX, 4cyl. Honda Part number for Master Clutch is 46920-S84-A02, Slave cylinder part #46930-S84-A06. I don't know what your numbers are. Master clutch cylinder was leaking. Was original factory and replacements don't fit so I replaced the master, the assembly line (hydraulic line) and the slave. For the life of me, I can't get pressure no matter what I do to bleed that line. Both the master and the slave have inlet/outlet right next to each other. I got a lot of air out of the slave by pushing the rod but still no system pressure, that clutch pedal goes to the floor. I tried your blocking the slave method after checking that yes, pushing the rod will change the fluid level in the reservoir. I did not bench bleed the master. Is this my problem? I put newspaper under the car so I could see if there were any leaks. No leaks, but then, I am not pushing anything forcefully, just slow hand push on clutch pedal.
Bleeding a 95 Honda Civic Clutch system and the Slave Cylinder doesnt move at all is this the slave or Master Cylinder Faulty or is there too much air in system. was working one week ago with different engine now with new engine it will not bleed or pressurize the slave
perfectionclutch Thank ya sir for the awesome response, I do have a question regarding the outcome of working on that system. The rundown of it I suspected the adjustment to be the issue and even installed a new slave cyl but couldnt get any movement on slave so kept bleeding just got zero peddle pressure at all the range of adjustment. Other side of system on bleeder little bits of air and fluid. Changed the Master Cyl for one I had lying around and got a gravity bleed quickly along with a working slave and system. Now what im so curious about is if the Master Cyl Was Faulty , or that the rod wasnt Floating as you said?
Can anyone explain to me, how this is not the same as: - installing your slave cylinder on the gearbox - opening the bleed screw -lightly pres the clutch pedal to the floor - close the bleed screw before letting go of pedal This makes the same flow as you use the clutch-pressure plate, as your clamp Or am I wrong?
My throwout bearing is riding the pressure plate when clutch pedal is released. I have enough play on the pedal. The car was taken to the dealership twice for warranty replacement on the bearing but the car only has 63k miles. When the engine is running, I can push the slave rod in with my hand and can hear and feel the bearing not contacting the PP. It seems that the slave rod is over extended causing the bearing to ride on the PP while it spins. My question is, Can I build a clam to limit the travel of the slave rod then bleed it? After bleeding it, will that rod stay in play after removing the clamp or will it self adjust itself to the over extended position? Please advise. Thank you.
+perfectionclutch Yesterday I strapped the slave half inch shorter than its original position then I turned the bleed screw counter-clockwise releasing a very small amount of fluid then closed it. Took the strap off and drove it 80 miles. I didn't hear the squeaking/chirping sound anymore but we'll see how long this will last. I'm thinking I may have to buy a new slave but I need to measure one out first and compare it to what I have.
my clutch getting hard after 15km run. i have recently changed the clutch plate and pressure plate still the problem not cleared whats the reason you think??? what should i do. please help
Thanks Gary, great videos. I have a nissan with a longer route from master to slave. I cant get any decent pressure into the pedal and I suspect that there is air in the master cylinder. Will this method pump and air out of the master?
+perfectionclutch So this is what I am going to do. Can you tell me if am doing it right? Install new slave, remove boot and pin, use a suitable socket size to block the piston, clamp socket with g clamp, bleed as normal, then bolt the slave onto transmission.
i have nissan maxima 2002 and i changed the master and slave cylinder .. but after a day my clutch start slipping .. i released the bleed screw and i found the system has over pressure ! and the pedal was heavy .. after relassing the pressure pedal become soft and noce and no more slipping of the clutch .. next day it did the same heavy and slipping ... every time i release the bleed i can see the slave cylinder rod go back and it actually was pushing the clutch ! i don't know if my mechanic installed it wrong before it well get air in the system and he advice to change both master and slave cylinder .... its been a week now and every day i have to do the bleeding .. or relasing ! any advice or diagnoses ?
yes its been adjusted and i loosed it to the end ... one mechanic made the postion of the pedal too high and i tried to lower it by the screw of the release sensor of cruse control ... my question is the slave actuator have adjustment .. and why when it build pressure the pedal is too heavy to push .. i well check mc pushrod again and verify its loosed all the way
Ok I replaced the slave on this vehicle over 2 years ago and although the clutch didn't feel 100% it held until recently when the master cylinder went out.. now you do not hear much about the cylinder not leaking at all however it was still bad as in it did not hold pressure causing the peddle to hit the floor and stay there and after re bleeding the slave i got half a life shelf added to the life of the hydraulic system .. The jury is still out but hopefully I think I solved this problem for good
Hi I have a 2004 Audi a4 1.8t. I have replaced both MC and slave which is also on driverside below MC. I blocked slave to check MC and pedal is hard as a rock but when I reinstall slave pedal is soft and won't disengage clutch. I have also tried compressing slave to work possible air bubbles out with no success. Is it possible to have a faulty slave cylinder? Any help would be great. Thanks Dan
+perfectionclutch Hey thanks for getting back. The clutch pedal rock solid when slaved was blocked rod did not depress more then 1/8 inch. I'm beginning to thank it's internal.
+perfectionclutch 98000 miles on car i got it with 77000 miles on it I don't know if the clutch has ever been replaced. Was just driving one day and was getting off the freeway and the clutch pedal went to the floor and stayed there. I tried bleeding the system with no success, the clutch would just go to the floor and stay there and had a hard time getting any fluid through so that's when I decided to replace both MC and slave and with pedal returning but not disengaging the clutch. The car was still drivable in a sense. To get it home I would start it in gear and go, just had to shut it off at the stop light and then repeat till I got home
+perfectionclutch Hey Gary yeah no luck cycled it in out 10 times and no bubbles. In your opinion should I stay with this dual mass fly wheel or go with a solid since it looks like I'm going to be doing the job myself. Thanks
You're talking about bench bleeding. Take the bleeder out and screw in bleeder hose. it's like bleeding out a master cylinder. Before you go to all the work and bleeding out your clutch system make sure that your pedal is working properly. Sometimes your neutral switch don't work. Because a little piece of junk plastic that they put in for a bushing with a spring just doesn't hold up it pushes out on both sides. An S10 junker clutch pedal assembly. No one really knows how to get them apart properly.
I have honda 2007 si, replace CMC & slave. For a week I'm trying to bleed this system.I listen to other TH-camrs from gavity draining , vacuum pump & pedal pumping to no prevail. These guys at Perfectionclutch got it right, within 10 mins I had it done. Clutch system working. Hats Off gentlemen, thank you
Did you sort this? Sounds like air locked slave? That’s what I think is up with mine
@@morrissongroundworks4920Did you have any luck? My husband and I are experiencing the same right now. Bleed clutch fluid. When we go to replace fluid and bleed through a little to make sure no air in the lines the clutch won't build pressure while pumping and bleed basically stops.
This vid rocks. If you can't bleed your MC or SC no matter how hard you try and the clutch pedal still goes to the floor...bleeding the Slave by blocking it in a C-clamp is the solution! This saved me from super frustration! Thank you!
1998 Isuzu Amigo: Bleeding the way stated in the book, it was just like you said, tiny burps. After 30 minutes and probably 300 pumps of the clutch, still no pressure. Followed your directions, clamped it, and got immediate pressure. Unclamped it, bolted it back and, and it bleed correctly. Took maybe 10 minutes to complete. YOU SAVED THE DAY!
I simply install a hose from the bleed screw to a suitable electric vacuum pump source with a collection jar and adjust for light vacuum. Keep the master full to prevent air intrusion. It will easily draw all air and new fluid through the lines and slave cyl. in a few seconds. No helper needed. Works for brake bleeding too.
Thanks for the input
Thanks for taking the time to demonstrate this technique. I was having a really difficult time getting the air out of a new system. This did the trick!
Have been trying to get my truck back on the road for awhile now. Have tried a number of ways with minimal results at best. This was the last effort before taking the transmission out and replacing the slave. Its a 94 F150 with 5.8. Four wheel drive. Five speed. Thank you. This was a life saver. Well at least alot of time and busted knuckles anyway. Thanks again.
This (C-clamp & socket) worked great for me on my 2003 Nissan Frontier truck when bleeding a newly installed slave cylinder. Before I found this video I was having great difficulty getting the trapped air out of the slave cylinder. Thank you!
Fantastic! after hours of bleeding the clutch with usual methods I still had air in the line / soft pedal low engagement. With this method and 1 1/2 press of the pedal I got a pea sized bubble out, now have a firm pedal with very little play and mid point engagement. Thanks Perfection Hytest.
Ive bled my clutch 3-4 times and there was still air in the system. Tried this method instanly worked. THANKS!
Really worked on my Honda Civic slave cylinder replacement. After hours of trying to bleed with no progress, I watched this video & simply clamped the clutch lever all together with the slave cylinder in situ, & voila after two pedal strokes, job finished. Thanks for posting!
I'm going through the same issue with my Honda Civic 2004. I'm glad this method worked for you I'm going to give it a try. Did you end up having to use a small socket?
@@phatrymes What do you mean?
I'm having the same issue on a Nissan Hardbody D21. Did you bleed your slave cilinder alone ?
that note about the VW fork stop trick should come in very handy! Can't find any other mention about that online, but I found pictures of the inside of the hole. Good little tip!
On my 2005 Infiniti G35 I blocked the slave cylinder by wedging a large square shaft screwdriver in between the piston shaft and the clutch lever on the transmission housing. Then I opened the slave bleed screw with a clear vinyl hose attached and had a helper slowly depress the clutch pedal and it will purge air bubbles from the clutch line.
I have a 1994 C4 Chevrolet Corvette with the hydraulic clutch system. These systems are self bleeding. The bleeding process is quite simple.
1) Remove the master cylinder cap then remove the rubber boot from the cap.
2) Loosely reinstall the master cylinder cap without the rubber boot. This will allow air to escape the master cylinder reservoir.
3) Now pump the clutch until no more air bubbles are expelled.
4) Remove the master cylinder cap and reinstall the rubber boot onto the cap.
5) Reinstall master cylinder cap. The system is now bled.
This method is the GM recommended method as per the GM Service Manual. I purchased a billet aluminum master cylinder for which the cap has a tiny pin hole on it which makes the bleeding process an ongoing process, I never get air in my clutch lines as it is constantly bleeding itself and it doesn't make a mess.
What a fantastic video, confirmed that this works on a Toyota supra. Before doing this the slave just kept making a loud clicking noise until I clamped it and got a nice flush. Thankyou
I discovered this method years go by trial and error. I was never quite sure why it actually worked, but you've explained it - thanks
I haven't even tried it yet but I know it's going to work tomorrow morning because of your great explanation. Thanks in advance. Rob......
You are completely right. Slave cylinders should be bled the same way as a brake caliper. When the caliper is mounted the pots don't extend when the pedal is depressed and all the air comes out.
Thank you. Not even the factory manual says that. Now i have to go and bleed the slave cylinder the correct way.
Dear Perfection Hytest, just wanted to than you for this illustrative video. It help me a lot to replace both, MC and SC on my Nissan X-Terra 2001 Manual and, of course it works in many Nissan trucks and Suv's. Using the exact C Clamp you have, Following your advise, I just blocked the brand new Duralast Slave Cylinder i got on AutoZone, connected to the line,... it was hanging for a while until the pedal was little by little releasing from the floor, after some pumping action and releasing some fluid/air. When I saw it was getting some pressure, I call my wife for help. Before i did it manually. And very important, way before I install the Master Cylinder i connected a rubber hose that went from the outlet back to the reservoir, so i was pumping it out of the car and get rid of any air inside the MC first, then it was attached to the firewall>> pedal. Thanks again!
Thank you for taking the time to explain in easy straight forward terms. I have worked on many vehicles, never on a clutch or related. Good examples of home engineering safely minded. Thanks again-
Yumm
Very interesting and great info! I fitted a braided steel slave cylinder line this afternoon to my Nissan Z car and then spent about 3 hours trying to bleed it. I see precisely what you are talking about here on my car... the slave moves in and out a little bit when the pedal is pumped, but it's as if the master does not have enough travel/volume to fill the fluid/pressure void in the line. Thus, blocking the slave cylinder is an excellent idea!! I will try this tomorrow and if that fails, maybe it's time to rebuild the master cylinder. I've had old brake master cylinders go bad before when the pedal hits the floor and the seals push past the usual travel/wear area into a ridge of hardened dirt/varnish etc... Hopefully it's not that...
+perfectionclutch Your technique worked just perfect Gary! Took a number of pumps to get the pedal back once the slave was blocked and this time there was plenty of pressurized air bubbles and fluid when the bleed screw was opened 4 or 5 times. Thanks a million for this video, it saved me taking advice from people telling me my master and probably slave had gone bad. Cheers
+ArchimedeanEye I have a 2006 nissan 350z and I just installed the JWT clutch kit with braided steel slave cylinder line. I've been bleeding forever now...did this method work for you??
Trevor Yong yes, it worked almost straight away... 10 pedal pumps or so
I really like this idea. My 96 Nissan pu has the same issue. Replaced both cylinders, blocked off the slave cylinder and still no pedal. I'm stumped. No signs of leakage.
What an innovative & interesting idea! Just replaced my clutch master cylinder & have been cussing it for the last 20 minutes.
It's too cold & dark to continue tonight but I'm gonna see if I can set up a block on mine.
Thanks for the info!
Used a Dewalt clamp on the slave cylinder on the my Toyota pickup to bleed the clutch system. Worked great and have good pressure in the system now! Great method!
this ROCKS! I put a honda engine in my fiat x19 and have a hydraulic to cable converter (allows my hydraulic system to puch the lever on the trans) but it puts the bleed nipple at the bottom making it almost impossible to bleed. this method alloes me to take the slave off, bleed it, then put it back in!
Thank you just saved fathers 1990 Chevy cheyenne. Very detailed video thanks again.
After you do this technique, when do you release the piston and install it on the car? Should the pedal be up or down when you release it? Is there a danger of putting too much fluid in the system?
This technique worked well on my Acura Integra ...all else had failed up to this point. Thanks for the informative video
What if you open the bleeder screw on the slave cylinder, push the pedal to the floor, and close it up the release? It seems to work the same way as this.
Thanks for this! My husband and I are having an issue refilling clutch fluid properly after a full bleed. 2012 Civic. We're trying to refill clutch fluid while bleeding it to make sure no air if left in the lines. (No vacuum) Pedal wont build pressure when we pump it...seems like it will bleed briefly then stop. Thanks so much! Ill show him this. 👍👍👍👍
Great Advice...Thanks!
I like many other Kia Sportage II owners am faced with a low biting clutch pedal...Will give this a try !!
Thanks
This video saved my sanity and my 350z from getting driven off a cliff
So basically with the slave cylinder blocked it'll bleed more like breaks?
Great video! I was wondering after you’ve compressed the slave cylinder to bleed it out, how do you put it back in the transmission cam? Still compressed or you let it extend it to put it back?
Very Awesome technique Gary!!
neat tricks for certain type slave cylinders.
Why would Ford Focus put the "slave cylinder" inside the clutch if the "slave cylinder" was going to break a seal sooner than any other part of my clutch hydraulic system?
Today my pedal from the clutch from my new passat 2014 stay under and I couldn't do anything with it any ideas what wrong with it?
Great.I had a hard time today trying to bleed the clucth in my 1991 mazda pick up.I'll mess with it tomorrow again, this time with the advise that I just saw here.thank you
The factory service manual for my honda car emphasizes the use of a wooden block to block the slave cylinder from moving out while to pump the pedal so all the air can be completely bled from the system .
thanks for the idea, worked beautifully for my Civic
I miss the old days. Put a foot long piece of hose on the bleeder straight up and pump the clutch pedal. Some air went up and some air went out the hose but it was quick and easy. I had a leaky slave cylinder bought a new one and was done in 15 minutes. Last manual transmission I owned but it was easy. B2000 not to complicated.
A super idea. I've tried almost everything. I have a C clamp and (although I'm desperate) what you say and show makes sense to me. Thankyou.
perfectionclutch Thankyou for replying. The slave looks very similar to the first Civic cylinder in your demonstration. I've been weeks on this and changed both cylinders. This looks much better than my last resort.... pushing upwards with a syringe.
Hello. I have replaced the master and slave in my 89 4Runner. When I did the block bleed I put a socket into the system to keep the plunger in the slave pinned back. I think I ran too deep of a socket. So I set the volume of brake fluid in the system too low. Is there a way to increase the volume of fluid without re-block bleeding?
+perfectionclutch Thanks for your response, Gary. The slave is on the passenger side of the vehicle so it has 60" of flexible hydraulic line feeding it. After the I had installed everything I took the slave back off the truck and kept the master cylinder installed. I dropped the slave to the ground on the drivers side and made sure I had a consistent rise to the hose. I then cycled the slave cylinder and did get a lot of air out of it as well as a lot of turbulence in the fluid. The clevis was loose too. I started to get half a pedal of pressure then it went soft. Looks like I blew the seal in the master cylinder, so it's off to get another one this afternoon. Seems like I over worked it, but not really sure how...
+perfectionclutch Yes, this is proper config hosing. Designed specifically for 4runner clutches. I will try again. This weekend. I have never had such a problem bleeding a clutch or brake system...
Why cant you just hold the clutch down, draw a vacuum on the slave bleeder valve and suck out the fluid until it's clean and bubble free? (Like you do brakes?) A piece of wood to hold the clutch pedal and all you need to do is keep the reservoir full of DOT3. What am I missing here? This method sounds overly complicated.
I have a 2010 Mustang I would like to learn how to bleed the clutch system it's integrated with the master cylinder.. it's a V6 5-speed how would I bleed the clutch system
I replace transmission gear fluid 75 / 90 as require in my miata 1992, then I pulled the stick shift and add gear fluid and shift dont work. only work when the car is not running, after I start it and run the shift dont work. what is the problem does it need to be bleed or clutch problem please help
my wife was on her way to work this morning in her 08 Subaru Impreza 2.5 and after driving 4 miles into town, she started to turn into sheetz and the clutch pedal went to the floor. A couple guys at sheetz tried helping her...they 1st tried adding fluid and having her pump the clutch, when they did this the fluid ran out (onto the ground ) as fast as they put it in! so I'm thinking hole in the line between master and slave? (I wasn't there to see for myself ) or could it be a bad slave? 1st Subaru we've ever owned....we have so much snow right now it's hard to find anything. your opinion would be appreciated! thanks!
This may be pure gold. I have a mid 90's Toyota truck with a master / slave set up exactly like this and while Ive bled it many times I am still having shift issues. I don't really know what spongy feels like but I'm having hard shifting into 1st, 1st to 2nd, and reverse especially. I'm going to try this as maybe there's a small bubble somewhere causing the slave not to push as hard as it should.
Hey Jeff...did you ever get your Toy Truck Clutch straightened out ?
I got a 93 3.0 T100 5 speed 4x4 same problem ....only worse !
@@Snailmailtrucker me too 98 t100
Did you guys figure the issue out , I’m having the same problem with my 86 pickup
What about 2003 mitsubishi lancer cant get pressure to build replaced everything
Will this process work with a 2003 Saturn Vue? All other tubes call for some kind of vacuum process.
I have a 89 toyota pu 3.0 sr5 .I changed out the master and slave and now I have no pedal after bleeding 100 times.Do I try to put a clamp on the slave on or off the vehicle?
i just replaced the master and slave cylinders. and my pedal doesnt come all the way up. at a time i was able to get into gears even reverse. but when we bled it again and opened the bleeder (traditional way) pumped a few times, now the car wont go into gears again. do you think there is still some air?
+perfectionclutch 97 Mitsubishi eclipse gst 2.0 turbo
Just like brakes. Very informative, thank you.
Now I wont use a 40HP gas dirt tamper jammed in my drivers seat to pump the clutch pedal while I frantically open and close the slave cylinder bleed screw.
JK LOL.
Stay gold.
Thank you so much my slave cylinder was messed up so I replace it and I couldn't get to bleed it but with the c clamp dude it worked right away u are a life saver thank you so much
I assume using a power/pressure bleeder (the type the pressurizes the actual reservoir) would have the same effect as locking the cylinder?
I have a 92 civic. will be changing the clutch master cylinder and slave. after I do so, I fill up the master cylinder, pull the pin and boot from the new slave and clamp it with a c-clamp. open the bleeder on the slave, push the clutch pedal down, close the bleeder, put the clutch pedal up, repeat the process till just fluid comes out. take off the c-clamp, install the boot and pin, hook up the slave to the clutch fork and I'm done??
I'm trying to bleed the clutch on my Audi a6, its much like described in the video, I have tried gravity, pressure pumped through the bleeder, negative pressure through the bleeder, traditionally method, and its not working. the pedal is soft until near the floor then too stiff to even go to the floor. anybody got some input? do the symptoms point to any bad part of the system? I'm quite sure doing this method will run the risk of cracking the slave cylinder due to the fact that its plastic. It's also nearly impossible to work this method because it's so hard to get to the slave cylinder which is on top of the transmission. also I tried running a line from the bleeder screw into the reservoir and pumping the s*** out of the pedal, didn't work either I'm at the end of my rope here.
+perfectionclutch its a 2000 a6 2.7t 6 speed manual, I spent the day bleeding the clutch including removing the slave and clapping it which gives me full pedal, the slave however is easy to push the piston in after doing so with some hydraulic resistance and springs back out instantly. I hear a squish sound as the piston is pushed back in the last bit...
Thanks gary the bleeding process worked really good!! 👍👌
I tried bleeding the system by pushing the rod in ( unbolted from transmission) then I noticed the slave takes forever to pop back out.. is it pooched?
What a simple idea! Love it. Thanks for posting this.
I have a Nissan Froniter 2007. I tried this, it help but I still seem to have air in the system. Replaced both the Master and Slave. So I clamp the slave and slowly press the clutch pedal. It gets have down and I open the bleed value and fluid comes out and the pedal goes to the bottom. So we pull the pedal up. It seems to work for a few presses and then gets soft and the pedal does not return to the top. I then open the bleed value and have a vacuum pump on it and it bubbles out. Any thoughts?
Over in the UK here, this is proper helpful tech advice. I'm about to take a chance on a 2007 Fiat Punto for £100, guy can't bleed a new clutch install and I was sure I could figure out the issues. These Fiats are notoriously hard for both being hard to bleed, to maintain pressure after bleeding without losing the pedal in a short while and needing a re-bleed.
I suspect the advice I just got here and some creativity may well massively. I will ask, it has what is called a HYD valve fitted in the middle. I'm taking a guess this is supposed to control flow, maybe one way etc, big round thing that I suspect may be an air trap. Any advice on these or if you know of anything similar in the form of an inline device, halfway along the length of the line.
Appears to be 2 bleed points, one on the master and one on the slave cylinder. I'll be replacing all O-Rings on the complete line as a matter of caution, seeing as they're pennies and could be 12 years old now. I'll be flushing the system with a quality fluid.
Many thanks,
Paul
It's been 3 days straight and I'm still bleeding out the the clutch and it doesn't seem to work. I need help solving this problem can you help
+perfectionclutch it's a 04/05 350z and it's a v6 I replaced the clutch , master cylinder and slave cylinder
I think this might be the best way to do mine... Been trying the buck and hold and getting nothing afterwards...didn't help that there was a hole in the line and it was letting all the fluid out...
Worked on my 2000 Mitsubishi Mirage. Used a 6" C-Clamp on the new cylinder.
how far are you engaging the piston inside of the slave cylinder???
@@perfectionclutch ****Thank You Very Much!!! I've got a 98 Isuzu Rodeo and I CAN NOT >>>NO MATTER WHAT I >>Or My Husband **whom is my teacher, & really good with all of this stuff, Or both of us together TRY!!!
@@jenibyrns145 simple answer is to buy a cheap hand operated vacuum bleed kit and just have it draw fluid through past the master cylinder through the lines and the slave cylinder until it draws all the air out and only fluid comes out then tighten bleed nipple and pump up the pedal (always making sure the hydraulic reservoir never get close to running dry)
THANKS
I did have some experience with this problem when, a few years back I fitted a new slave cylinder to my 1967 Toyota Carinaa now I am fitting a new master cylinder. One "hell ova job," as one must remove a part of the dash board to get at the linkage and remove two nuts which hold the master cylinder to the firewall. Fortunately althouogh 87 yrs old I am not overweight so removing the driverers seat allows me to lie on my back ! I can not see any other way to do the job, I recon a garage would charge for a min of twwo hours , the new master cylinder was £130.
So I was trying to purge my clutch cylinder and I guess I don't know what I was doing because I removes the plug where you bledd it and now my clutch paddle is all the way down and now I don't know what to Do? Can you help? Thank you..
You introduced air into the line all purging must be done at the end/bottom of the line at the slave cylinder.
I tried this method yesterday and I am not having any luck at all with this thing....
Yesterday I Filled the Clutch Master Cylinder Reservoir, Blocked the Slave Cylinder and then opened the Bleed screw on the Slave.... I thought fluid should just drain thru at that point....but No, I hooked up a Vacuum pump and sucked fluid thru it....but the Reservoir level didn't move.
I messed with all kinds of different ideas...I was getting lots of air bubbles....not sure if the rubber hose was leaking or what but I still had no luck.
Yes, I did loosen the Master Cylinder Plunger rod hoping that would help...NO good.
Next is a pack of Matches !
I have 1993 Toyota T100 3.0 V6 5 speed 4x4 with the same problem as Jeff who Commented below. I replaced the Clutch Master Cylinder and Slave Cylinder twice...then I decided to Replace the Clutch, Pressure Plate throw out bearing with a Stage 2 system. Now I still have the same damned problem. No clutch pedal pressure at all ! I also had to replace the Clutch Pedal assembly under the dash....as it was cracked in 3 or 4 places....then I noticed the Firewall behind the Clutch Master Cylinder was Cracked too.( I cut out a piece of 3/16 steel and re-inforced that too)... Amazing....I had just recently bought this truck and it ran OK and looked great... I replaced all of the Front end stuff too while I was in there...
All I am getting is about 1/2 inch movement on the Clutch Arm on the Transmission.
Now all I want is to get it to move ! GREAT VIDEO...LIKED/SUBSCRIBED !
@@perfectionclutch Gary...Thanks a Bunch Brother...my son is coming down to help me tomorrow or Wednesday....I will do everything you suggested ! I am just about out of other options....I did order 25 feet of 3/16 brake line on Ebay... and bought bending tools at Harbor Freight yesterday just incase I don't get any positive results bleeding !
I'll let you know how it goes !
Thanks agin !
Well if I block my slave cylinder can I still pump up the cluch and bleed it
2012 International semi truck how do you bleed the hydraulic clutch
I mean it's not really better it's just slightly faster... But unless there is a issue doing maybe 4 pump n bleeds per side is all u need. This would take longer to setup than the extra 2 open/closes...
Better and safer to use a mityvac pump to do it yourself and done. But even this method may leak in air through the hose, since none seal perfectly
I'm just curious does this work on a bmw e46 2004
it just works for me...thanks god...pin bubbles in slave cylinder make less efficient disengagement of clutch
What do you do when theres no bleeding valve like on the camaro 1996 i replace the master cilynder and dont have one now having trouble bleeding it!
Should i replace master cylinder with slave cylinder too? Making sure all components new? I'm on a budget
Im confused sorry. I block off the slave cylinder and press and release And top the reservoir. Or do I press hold open the valve like normal. Thank you for the help.
Will this method work on a 99 Suzuki Grand Vitara 2.5l
I could use some help on bleeding the new slave cylinder and new master cylinder on a Toyota MR2 Turbo. Because it’s mid-engine, it’s got a very long hydraulic line from the front to the rear of the car. Also, the bleeder screw is not on the slave. It’s located about 6” higher on the transmission - this can’t be good for getting all of the air out.
My issue is not with releasing the clutch and selecting a gear, it’s actually at startup I’ve developed an alarming chatter when I start the car that goes away fairly quickly. Am I correct in assuming the slave cylinder might be at fault? The problem started immediately after I replaced the slave cylinder.
I am at my wit's end. 98 Honda Accord LX, 4cyl. Honda Part number for Master Clutch is 46920-S84-A02, Slave cylinder part #46930-S84-A06. I don't know what your numbers are.
Master clutch cylinder was leaking. Was original factory and replacements don't fit so I replaced the master, the assembly line (hydraulic line) and the slave.
For the life of me, I can't get pressure no matter what I do to bleed that line. Both the master and the slave have inlet/outlet right next to each other. I got a lot of air out of the slave by pushing the rod but still no system pressure, that clutch pedal goes to the floor. I tried your blocking the slave method after checking that yes, pushing the rod will change the fluid level in the reservoir. I did not bench bleed the master. Is this my problem? I put newspaper under the car so I could see if there were any leaks. No leaks, but then, I am not pushing anything forcefully, just slow hand push on clutch pedal.
Bleeding a 95 Honda Civic Clutch system and the Slave Cylinder doesnt move at all is this the slave or Master Cylinder Faulty or is there too much air in system. was working one week ago with different engine now with new engine it will not bleed or pressurize the slave
perfectionclutch Thank ya sir for the awesome response, I do have a question regarding the outcome of working on that system. The rundown of it I suspected the adjustment to be the issue and even installed a new slave cyl but couldnt get any movement on slave so kept bleeding just got zero peddle pressure at all the range of adjustment. Other side of system on bleeder little bits of air and fluid. Changed the Master Cyl for one I had lying around and got a gravity bleed quickly along with a working slave and system. Now what im so curious about is if the Master Cyl Was Faulty , or that the rod wasnt Floating as you said?
Can anyone explain to me, how this is not the same as:
- installing your slave cylinder on the gearbox
- opening the bleed screw
-lightly pres the clutch pedal to the floor
- close the bleed screw before letting go of pedal
This makes the same flow as you use the clutch-pressure plate, as your clamp
Or am I wrong?
My throwout bearing is riding the pressure plate when clutch pedal is released. I have enough play on the pedal. The car was taken to the dealership twice for warranty replacement on the bearing but the car only has 63k miles.
When the engine is running, I can push the slave rod in with my hand and can hear and feel the bearing not contacting the PP. It seems that the slave rod is over extended causing the bearing to ride on the PP while it spins. My question is, Can I build a clam to limit the travel of the slave rod then bleed it? After bleeding it, will that rod stay in play after removing the clamp or will it self adjust itself to the over extended position?
Please advise. Thank you.
+perfectionclutch 2008 Toyota Yaris 3dr hatchback, 1.5L 1NZ-FE.
+perfectionclutch Yesterday I strapped the slave half inch shorter than its original position then I turned the bleed screw counter-clockwise releasing a very small amount of fluid then closed it. Took the strap off and drove it 80 miles. I didn't hear the squeaking/chirping sound anymore but we'll see how long this will last. I'm thinking I may have to buy a new slave but I need to measure one out first and compare it to what I have.
my clutch getting hard after 15km run. i have recently changed the clutch plate and pressure plate still the problem not cleared whats the reason you think??? what should i do. please help
Thanks Gary, great videos. I have a nissan with a longer route from master to slave. I cant get any decent pressure into the pedal and I suspect that there is air in the master cylinder. Will this method pump and air out of the master?
Hi, should I remove the rubber boot and pin before trying to block? I tried with the pin in place but it wiggles all over the place. Thanks
+perfectionclutch So this is what I am going to do. Can you tell me if am doing it right?
Install new slave, remove boot and pin, use a suitable socket size to block the piston, clamp socket with g clamp, bleed as normal, then bolt the slave onto transmission.
can air cause a hard clutch pedal?
GREAT FUNDAMENTAL & RIGHT TO THE POINT THX
i have nissan maxima 2002 and i changed the master and slave cylinder .. but after a day my clutch start slipping .. i released the bleed screw and i found the system has over pressure ! and the pedal was heavy ..
after relassing the pressure pedal become soft and noce and no more slipping of the clutch .. next day it did the same heavy and slipping ... every time i release the bleed i can see the slave cylinder rod go back and it actually was pushing the clutch !
i don't know if my mechanic installed it wrong before it well get air in the system and he advice to change both master and slave cylinder ....
its been a week now and every day i have to do the bleeding .. or relasing !
any advice or diagnoses ?
yes its been adjusted and i loosed it to the end ... one mechanic made the postion of the pedal too high and i tried to lower it by the screw of the release sensor of cruse control ... my question is the slave actuator have adjustment .. and why when it build pressure the pedal is too heavy to push .. i well check mc pushrod again and verify its loosed all the way
It seems the same objective could be achieved by locking up any movement of downstream linkage.
what about on a 1990 miata ? normal bleed or do this?
Excellent video! That'll make the bleeding of my V8 Ranger way way easier. I was pulling the whole setup to bench bleed it in the past.
Ok I replaced the slave on this vehicle over 2 years ago and although the clutch didn't feel 100% it held until recently when the master cylinder went out.. now you do not hear much about the cylinder not leaking at all however it was still bad as in it did not hold pressure causing the peddle to hit the floor and stay there and after re bleeding the slave i got half a life shelf added to the life of the hydraulic system .. The jury is still out but hopefully I think I solved this problem for good
I've tried this and works very well. cheers
is this working for volvo 740, 1990, cause i try some ways and notting work again
thanks
my new clutch slave it's not moving at all on my Toyota Coaster
Hi I have a 2004 Audi a4 1.8t. I have replaced both MC and slave which is also on driverside below MC. I blocked slave to check MC and pedal is hard as a rock but when I reinstall slave pedal is soft and won't disengage clutch. I have also tried compressing slave to work possible air bubbles out with no success. Is it possible to have a faulty slave cylinder? Any help would be great. Thanks Dan
+perfectionclutch Hey thanks for getting back. The clutch pedal rock solid when slaved was blocked rod did not depress more then 1/8 inch. I'm beginning to thank it's internal.
+perfectionclutch 98000 miles on car i got it with 77000 miles on it I don't know if the clutch has ever been replaced. Was just driving one day and was getting off the freeway and the clutch pedal went to the floor and stayed there. I tried bleeding the system with no success, the clutch would just go to the floor and stay there and had a hard time getting any fluid through so that's when I decided to replace both MC and slave and with pedal returning but not disengaging the clutch. The car was still drivable in a sense. To get it home I would start it in gear and go, just had to shut it off at the stop light and then repeat till I got home
+perfectionclutch Hey Gary yeah no luck cycled it in out 10 times and no bubbles. In your opinion should I stay with this dual mass fly wheel or go with a solid since it looks like I'm going to be doing the job myself. Thanks
Would this work on a 1990 Chevrolet K1500? I've been trying different methods for almost a week.
Thank you for this information. Me and a coworker spent around 40 minutes trying to bleed the clutch system and so little came out.
Good idea, but what if you're alone ?
You're talking about bench bleeding. Take the bleeder out and screw in bleeder hose. it's like bleeding out a master cylinder. Before you go to all the work and bleeding out your clutch system make sure that your pedal is working properly. Sometimes your neutral switch don't work. Because a little piece of junk plastic that they put in for a bushing with a spring just doesn't hold up it pushes out on both sides. An S10 junker clutch pedal assembly. No one really knows how to get them apart properly.
Made all the difference! Great!
For anyone who can't get the air out. Use a e vac machine. AutoZone