I learned more in the first 15 min than I’d learned in the last 2 years on my own. I appreciate the info in the video. I’d like to learn square grinding too if you do any future grinding videos. Thanks
tip worth trying. Prior to grinding your chains, a soak in Super Clean will remove any pitch and oil from the bar lube. Sharpen chain and then re-lube with lube of choice. This tip is not sponsored by anyone. Final note: I tried several cleaners before making the aforementioned my goto. Thanks for the video
I reverse my grinder with a drill and just hit the on button. It works I have the china oregon knock off. I’m glad you made this video. I always cut oaks with the center rotten out. All that dirt really rocks a chain.
Best damn chainsaw channel on the tube. U can tell em all day long tho. U don’t need to know how to port a cylinder until u get the fundamentals of bar and chains down. It’s the money maker of the saw. Good video as always Richard…
Richard, Great stuff. Awesome tips on vice angle soft vs hardwood. I found to keep more consistency tooth to tooth on my chain using my oregon bench grinder, I found that I setup my R or L side cut, get depth set (up / down), then adjust top plate depth (side to side) so I just kiss the tooth. Run the whole loop by that side once. Then nudge top plate depth in a little more, run the loop. Keep going till all shoulders sharp. This way keep from heating chain and loose heat treat in steel as you only zip a little at a time and tooth cools as you do next tooth and run the loop. Flip sides. Rinse. Lather. Repeat. Until L and R sides top plates are about even length. Admittedly, that chain you demo'd was pretty ratted up. But yea. Dead on about consistent light touch when you bring grinder head to chain. Absolutely cannot ham fist it like driving 16d nail in 2 hits.
There is an old school trick to reverse thse motors if not wired for a dual switch. Take a drill, spool up the wheel in reverse direction, and bingo! I have the MAXX grinder, both sides grind into the wheel. The racing chain community says that grinding or filing into the wheel lays a truer edge. Nice work Rich.
Richard, on that series grinder you need to tilt the base 10 degrees each way for left and right cutters on round ground full chisel. Only way to cut to the point. I always take a new loop of chain and set all settings to a new tooth’s shape. It will look like a new one, just ground back when you sharpen a used chain.
I've always had good results without tilting the vice. That being said I'm all for getting better results. I'll do a follow up with some cutting comparisons. Thank you Tim
Trying to verify I am tilted the right direction for the 10 degrees.. if sharping the cutter on the back side of the vise I want to tip the top of vise forward towards me?
@@JohnSmith-tn1te if your teeth are facing right you would pull the knob on the base toward you to grind the left side cutters. This tilting the base back. Just look at the wheel into the tooth grind without turning the wheel. You will see how it matches. It’s only for full chisel teeth set it in the middle for semi chisel
Great video, I have the same grinder branded by Norther Tool. Just FYI, there's a forward and backwards adjustment for what you called the "stop." You don't have to move the chain by hand. Thanks for sharing.
Hi Richard, good video, I have one Oregon machine and I used to start grinding from the shortest or most damaged tooth, I think nothing beats hand sharpening.
Those tecomec wheels are a game changer been using them since your last chain video and my chains are lookin 👌. Throw those factory pink wheels away people 😂.
For a quick touchup sharpening, I still hand file. For a very dull or hammered chain, I use the stones that go on a dremel. You hold and stroke the dremel at the same angle as a file and it gives you a brand new, razor sharp tooth in seconds.
I have a 520 Oregon grinder and purchased a forward reverse oregon switch and would like to see a video of installing and wiring this switch for the 520-120 grinder
Nice job- There should have been a plastic template (comes with the grinder) to keep the profile edge correct. I’d suggest you top your “hook” back just a bit. Really sharp point but not very strong (durable)
If the grinder is way off from left to right angles try centering the chain vice with the centerline of the grinders wheel bolt. Worked wonders for my older oregon grinder. Had to slide my vice in almost an1/8" .
Richard, I got a Timbertongda electric chain grinder, today. I was not paying what they wanted for an Oregon grinder.normally, I use just a file but I wanted a electric grinder for those chains that get rocked. What do you think?
How is that Tecomec white wheel compared a CBN wheel? The main thing I do to keep from over heating my teeth on severely damaged teeth is. I'll make multiple passes on the entire loop instead of trying to take all off at 1 adjustment. Doing multiple passes in small incriminate's is easier on the grinding wheel, keeps teeth cooler and can maintain same teeth length
Man Richard I'm glad you made this video. I've been using the Oregon 410 grinder for close to a year now mainly to straighten up rocked chains or to just clean up my angles every now and then. I run all Sthil chains so I set up the grinder according to their spec's, 60, 30, and 0 degrees. Does a pretty good job, but I noticed when I hand file my grind isn't matching up great to my file. I use the Sthil recommended 13/64 file. Should I jump up to a 7/32 to match Oregon? Definitely want to try a different wheel, seems like the purple stock wheel will burn a tooth in a heartbeat. Would like to try a CBN wheel but dang,$$$. Thanks.
Yes, the diamond wheels are pricy. I haven't ventured into the diamond wheels either. Try the Tecomec grinding wheels they are much better and only a little more expensive than the "stock" wheel. At the end of the day you should enjoy using the grinder you invested in. Dealers choice on the file size. The 13/64 does a better job as the tooth gets shorter IMHO.
@@richardflagg3084 Yep, I had someone tell me 7/32 when new and 13/64 when they get past half. I will look into the Tecomec wheels. Thank you for the content I really enjoy it. I got my saws off the pond water and running 40:1 red armor, their running great.
Great explanation. I got an old efco sharpener I'm trying to get the hang of. I thought I did something wrong when I switched to the left side cutters. You'd think 25 or 30 degrees swapped to the other side would just line up minty. Oh no no. For sure more adjustments for the first tooth when you switch sides. You touched on it at the beginning, my sharpener also has the ability to spin counter and clockwise. What would this be used for?
So that the wheel is grinding outside in on both left & right cutters. Should help eliminate burr on side plate edge. If there's a significant difference between left & right cutter setting, assuming cutters are same length, then the chain vice may need centring to the middle of the disc Arbor. As the diameter of the disc reduces due to wear, has to be reset. More expensive models allow the whole vice to be moved. Cheaper, adjust the screw on the middle of the vice only. There are YT videos on how to make the adjustment. A small amount of turn to the screw has a significant effect. Good luck with your machine.
Hey man how is the "grit" on the white wheels compared to pink/green/resinoid? I'd love to find something that is more like a 120 grit than the 60/80 for a finishing pass on go-fast chains. It seems that for speed/temp control reasons most of the normal wheels are quite coarse. White is a color I have never ran.
Seems to be more coarse. I haven't looked on Tecomec's website to see if they have any info on the abrasive specs. Makes sense using a fine finishing stone to get optimum sharpness.
@@richardflagg3084 Yeah it would really be for "fun" but it would be nice to be able to be equivalent to a great round file job. I can grind better than a "decent" hand file job but there is still a gap there. I think a big part of it is just surface finish.
Was wondering if the Tecomec Super Jolly grinder was a good investment for lots of chainsaw chain sharpening ? Are those grinding discs reversible ? Thanks for the video too BTW 👍🏻
I haven't used one of the new grinders to be honest. Unless you can find an older grinder in very good condition, the Tecomec seems to be a good option. Wear and replacement parts should be available for a long time.
Rookie question: Would a spring on the tooth holder causing the clamp to apply a little downward pressure aid in holding the link that is being sharpened help?
I'm running a Oregon grinder with the original wheels. Can you provide a link or information on better wheels. Thanks. I find your videos very informative.
Archer Plus has it's own website or you can order from them off Ebay. They are a Tecomec dealer and have spare parts and multiple wheels. I like the green and white wheels. they are so much better than the oregon wheels. Not sure what the grit is on either. I believe there is some more detailed info on the Tecomec website.
I only use a Stihl 2 in 1 file the grinder sits and rarely gets used now. I do 1 or 2 strokes every tank of fuel. Always cuts excellent. Always use a bench vise or stump vise.
nice vid. Keep these coming! I get similar results with my cheap HF grinder. It always cuts good after a sharpening. that said....i know there is room for improvement. im not a lumberjack, im not racing...im just cutting wood....i have files...i have the HF grinder. that HF grinder..i can do 4 chains in no time. that guy tested all of them...and I enjoyed his vid too.......th-cam.com/video/BzmKwxfqjjQ/w-d-xo.html
Nice job- There should have been a plastic template (comes with the grinder) to keep the profile edge correct. I’d suggest you top your “hook” back just a bit. Really sharp point but not very strong (durable)
I learned more in the first 15 min than I’d learned in the last 2 years on my own. I appreciate the info in the video. I’d like to learn square grinding too if you do any future grinding videos. Thanks
tip worth trying.
Prior to grinding your chains, a soak in Super Clean will remove any pitch and oil from the bar lube.
Sharpen chain and then re-lube with lube of choice.
This tip is not sponsored by anyone.
Final note: I tried several cleaners before making the aforementioned my goto.
Thanks for the video
Thanks for the tip, I have been looking for a suitable cleaner.
I've tried a few different brands of abrasive wheels. Bought a cbn wheel for $100 about four years ago. Game changer for me. To each is own though.
I reverse my grinder with a drill and just hit the on button. It works I have the china oregon knock off. I’m glad you made this video. I always cut oaks with the center rotten out. All that dirt really rocks a chain.
Nice video Rich. That's one of the nicest looking round ground cutters I've seen.
Another great job on the video 👍
I always learn something watching you working on stuff.
Thanks for taking time to share.😎
Pat from nw Wisconsin
Thank You!
Funny it took me a couple years to learn all these things through trial and error. This video can give a guy a real head start
Best damn chainsaw channel on the tube. U can tell em all day long tho. U don’t need to know how to port a cylinder until u get the fundamentals of bar and chains down. It’s the money maker of the saw. Good video as always Richard…
Richard, Great stuff. Awesome tips on vice angle soft vs hardwood. I found to keep more consistency tooth to tooth on my chain using my oregon bench grinder, I found that I setup my R or L side cut, get depth set (up / down), then adjust top plate depth (side to side) so I just kiss the tooth. Run the whole loop by that side once. Then nudge top plate depth in a little more, run the loop. Keep going till all shoulders sharp. This way keep from heating chain and loose heat treat in steel as you only zip a little at a time and tooth cools as you do next tooth and run the loop. Flip sides. Rinse. Lather. Repeat. Until L and R sides top plates are about even length.
Admittedly, that chain you demo'd was pretty ratted up.
But yea. Dead on about consistent light touch when you bring grinder head to chain. Absolutely cannot ham fist it like driving 16d nail in 2 hits.
There is an old school trick to reverse thse motors if not wired for a dual switch. Take a drill, spool up the wheel in reverse direction, and bingo!
I have the MAXX grinder, both sides grind into the wheel.
The racing chain community says that grinding or filing into the wheel lays a truer edge.
Nice work Rich.
I'm convinced, again. I'm staying with my files. ;-)
I enjoy hand filing more.
Richard, on that series grinder you need to tilt the base 10 degrees each way for left and right cutters on round ground full chisel. Only way to cut to the point. I always take a new loop of chain and set all settings to a new tooth’s shape. It will look like a new one, just ground back when you sharpen a used chain.
I've always had good results without tilting the vice. That being said I'm all for getting better results. I'll do a follow up with some cutting comparisons. Thank you Tim
Trying to verify I am tilted the right direction for the 10 degrees.. if sharping the cutter on the back side of the vise I want to tip the top of vise forward towards me?
@@JohnSmith-tn1te if your teeth are facing right you would pull the knob on the base toward you to grind the left side cutters. This tilting the base back. Just look at the wheel into the tooth grind without turning the wheel. You will see how it matches. It’s only for full chisel teeth set it in the middle for semi chisel
A right tooth you push it away. RIGHTAWAY .
@@rc391995 Thank You!
Great video, I have the same grinder branded by Norther Tool. Just FYI, there's a forward and backwards adjustment for what you called the "stop." You don't have to move the chain by hand. Thanks for sharing.
Hi Richard, good video, I have one Oregon machine and I used to start grinding from the shortest or most damaged tooth, I think nothing beats hand sharpening.
Great video
Thanks
Those tecomec wheels are a game changer been using them since your last chain video and my chains are lookin 👌. Throw those factory pink wheels away people 😂.
thanks!
Well Explained, Thank You
Rich...That white stone looks like what I got from Diamond Wheel for dressing my CBN wheels. Regular wheels chew it up.
You're exactly right. Bought them not knowing. They don't work worth a flip.
For a quick touchup sharpening, I still hand file. For a very dull or hammered chain, I use the stones that go on a dremel. You hold and stroke the dremel at the same angle as a file and it gives you a brand new, razor sharp tooth in seconds.
@@williamwallace9620 Into the hook is what I do but it doesn't seem to do matter either way.
I have a 520 Oregon grinder and purchased a forward reverse oregon switch and would like to see a video of installing and wiring this switch for the 520-120 grinder
Nice job-
There should have been a plastic template (comes with the grinder) to keep the profile edge correct.
I’d suggest you top your “hook” back just a bit.
Really sharp point but not very strong (durable)
If the grinder is way off from left to right angles try centering the chain vice with the centerline of the grinders wheel bolt. Worked wonders for my older oregon grinder. Had to slide my vice in almost an1/8" .
Yours have the two allen screw hold downs underneath the vice, yes?
@@richardflagg3084 Yes
Richard,
I got a Timbertongda electric chain grinder, today. I was not paying what they wanted for an Oregon grinder.normally, I use just a file but I wanted a electric grinder for those chains that get rocked. What do you think?
I miss the driver width/gauge adjustment and the centering adjustment on the old grinders.
It's SORELY missed on my newer 410.
How is that Tecomec white wheel compared a CBN wheel?
The main thing I do to keep from over heating my teeth on severely damaged teeth is. I'll make multiple passes on the entire loop instead of trying to take all off at 1 adjustment. Doing multiple passes in small incriminate's is easier on the grinding wheel, keeps teeth cooler and can maintain same teeth length
Man Richard I'm glad you made this video. I've been using the Oregon 410 grinder for close to a year now mainly to straighten up rocked chains or to just clean up my angles every now and then. I run all Sthil chains so I set up the grinder according to their spec's, 60, 30, and 0 degrees. Does a pretty good job, but I noticed when I hand file my grind isn't matching up great to my file. I use the Sthil recommended 13/64 file. Should I jump up to a 7/32 to match Oregon? Definitely want to try a different wheel, seems like the purple stock wheel will burn a tooth in a heartbeat. Would like to try a CBN wheel but dang,$$$. Thanks.
Yes, the diamond wheels are pricy. I haven't ventured into the diamond wheels either. Try the Tecomec grinding wheels they are much better and only a little more expensive than the "stock" wheel. At the end of the day you should enjoy using the grinder you invested in. Dealers choice on the file size. The 13/64 does a better job as the tooth gets shorter IMHO.
@@richardflagg3084 Yep, I had someone tell me 7/32 when new and 13/64 when they get past half. I will look into the Tecomec wheels. Thank you for the content I really enjoy it. I got my saws off the pond water and running 40:1 red armor, their running great.
Do any of you guys use a Stihl bench grinder?
On the opposite side of the camlock there is an adjustment screw to clamp the chain tighter.
That adjustment screw is for centering the chain to grind both right and left cutters the same length. Takes some experimenting.
Not using the vice tilt? A lot of people don’t. I myself do, chains seem to cut better for me when I do
I usually don't tilt. This one will tilt. Sounds like I should do another video with some comparisons.
I was wondering what difference this made also the offset vs 0. Is that the offset substitute for the tilt? 🤷🏽♂️
@@cajun3197, yes if the whole vice slides, gives more choice of angle. Left cutter, back right towards you.
@@trwilkinson4623 thanks
Great explanation.
I got an old efco sharpener I'm trying to get the hang of. I thought I did something wrong when I switched to the left side cutters. You'd think 25 or 30 degrees swapped to the other side would just line up minty. Oh no no. For sure more adjustments for the first tooth when you switch sides.
You touched on it at the beginning, my sharpener also has the ability to spin counter and clockwise. What would this be used for?
So that the wheel is grinding outside in on both left & right cutters. Should help eliminate burr on side plate edge. If there's a significant difference between left & right cutter setting, assuming cutters are same length, then the chain vice may need centring to the middle of the disc Arbor. As the diameter of the disc reduces due to wear, has to be reset. More expensive models allow the whole vice to be moved. Cheaper, adjust the screw on the middle of the vice only. There are YT videos on how to make the adjustment. A small amount of turn to the screw has a significant effect. Good luck with your machine.
Great video, sounds like you know what you're doing! 🍻
I'm just a hack 😎 How have you been?
@@richardflagg3084 fighting the flu, but thanks for asking.
@@richardfuerst5286 Get well soon my friend. Merry Christmas
I have Oregon 410-120 Bench Chain Grinder that Sharpens 1/4",3/8" & .404
Hey man how is the "grit" on the white wheels compared to pink/green/resinoid?
I'd love to find something that is more like a 120 grit than the 60/80 for a finishing pass on go-fast chains. It seems that for speed/temp control reasons most of the normal wheels are quite coarse. White is a color I have never ran.
Seems to be more coarse. I haven't looked on Tecomec's website to see if they have any info on the abrasive specs. Makes sense using a fine finishing stone to get optimum sharpness.
@@richardflagg3084 Yeah it would really be for "fun" but it would be nice to be able to be equivalent to a great round file job. I can grind better than a "decent" hand file job but there is still a gap there. I think a big part of it is just surface finish.
Sharp chain is everything no matter how you get it.
Was wondering if the Tecomec Super Jolly grinder was a good investment for lots of chainsaw chain sharpening ? Are those grinding discs reversible ? Thanks for the video too BTW 👍🏻
I haven't used one of the new grinders to be honest. Unless you can find an older grinder in very good condition, the Tecomec seems to be a good option. Wear and replacement parts should be available for a long time.
@@richardflagg3084 thanks again 👍🏻
Do you have model number that one I been looking for one that have forward and reverse on the motor
Rookie question: Would a spring on the tooth holder causing the clamp to apply a little downward pressure aid in holding the link that is being sharpened help?
I haven't tried that, yet
I'm running a Oregon grinder with the original wheels. Can you provide a link or information on better wheels. Thanks. I find your videos very informative.
I buy these on Ebay. The seller is Archer Plus. He is a Tecomec dealer among others. I believe he has a stand alone website as well.
Hey Richard I’ve been looking for the white grinder wheels I can’t find them do you have a link or a place to look thank you
Seller on Ebay named Archerplus. Just search "Tecomec wheel" and you'll see them. He actually has his own website if you don't have an Ebay acct.
where did you order your wheels from and do you prefer one type over the other?.........wasnt sure what grit you are using?
Archer Plus has it's own website or you can order from them off Ebay. They are a Tecomec dealer and have spare parts and multiple wheels. I like the green and white wheels. they are so much better than the oregon wheels. Not sure what the grit is on either. I believe there is some more detailed info on the Tecomec website.
When do the pro tips start?
So what you’re saying is when the tooth turns blue, it’s sharp, got it! 😂 KIDDING!
Is that a Jolly or Super Jolly?
Thanks god bless
I only use a Stihl 2 in 1 file the grinder sits and rarely gets used now. I do 1 or 2 strokes every tank of fuel. Always cuts excellent. Always use a bench vise or stump vise.
I would get the gas cans under the table away from a grinder.
Clean the chain first, your stone will stay clean and not get clogged.
nice vid. Keep these coming!
I get similar results with my cheap HF grinder. It always cuts good after a sharpening.
that said....i know there is room for improvement.
im not a lumberjack, im not racing...im just cutting wood....i have files...i have the HF grinder. that HF grinder..i can do 4 chains in no time.
that guy tested all of them...and I enjoyed his vid too.......th-cam.com/video/BzmKwxfqjjQ/w-d-xo.html
hu
Mrp
Well I learned nothing 😂
Boron wheels are the bomb !!!
Richard , sir did I just win your giveaway? A new Stihl 500 I chainsaw?
I wish TH-cams would do something about all the spam.
@@richardflagg3084 yeah they almost scammed me , they said I won a Stihl 500 I ,,, Knew it was a scam as soon as they asked me to pay for shipping
Nice job-
There should have been a plastic template (comes with the grinder) to keep the profile edge correct.
I’d suggest you top your “hook” back just a bit.
Really sharp point but not very strong (durable)