"They do say what doesn't kill you makes you stronger. But no one ever seems to mention how it chips away at your sanity." This is the real-world experience you don't get on other channels.
I know. I know. I am watching yet another chain saw video by ToT. What Tony doesn't realize is that I could care less about chain saws, but listening to Tony's hands tell us what is going on is what brings me here and gets me to stay, and even watch again.
@@stupot_64 “could care less” means that you DO care somewhat. COULDNT care less means even if you tried, you would not be able to care less which means your level of care is zero. if you “care level” is ANYTHING above zero, then yes, you “could care less” i don’t understand what is so difficult about this very basic statement for so many people to understand.
Yeah me too. LOL, it has been about a year and I came across this by accident. I didn't even know what the subject was or that it was TOT. But when I saw the "HANDS".. I knew I was in it for a spell.... 🙂 Thanks as always Tony....
Could I confess something, Tony? I only get my chainsaw out every two or three years and I thought that when the blade went dull, you either bought a new one or found a professional to re-sharpen the old blade. Then, one day, I was buying a new saw chain and saw that the shop had a sharpening kit. IIRC it was less than £20 - essentially a file and a guide and a leaflet in a plastic wallet. Fortunately, I never throw anything out, so I have a dozen blunt blades and I can now re-use them all. For an occasional user, like me, I don't see the point of buying a grinder. The file and the guide let me bring the chain back to life in five minutes. I'll probably die before I use up my store of old blades. Possibly by bleeding out of my femoral artery.
You can get a cheap dremel attachment IIRC, that works pretty well. I think I saw someone using one of the grinding stones shaped like a dowel that worked like the round file except rotating vs back and forth.
@@1pcfred why not machine a structure to strap in a normal grinder? Make it bulky and tight or even destroy the old grinder in the process to make it sturdier. either way seems cheaper(and cooler) than spending 500$ on a fancy(overpriced) mounting vice with a grinder attached to it
The "after" and "after" shots really showed the difference between the dull chain and the freshly sharpened one! I almost couldn't believe the difference!!! wow! 😍😍😍 I wonder what the "before" and "before" comparison would be....
I worked for Oregon Tool in the Machine Design Dept, designing the chain assembly/grinding machines. I learned SO MUCH about chain cutter geometry in the short time I was there and it’s fun to see it talked about again :-)
Hate to admit it but I have an irrational dislike for Oregon Tool only because when i worked at FedEx they were really heavy and awkward boxes to move around since they were so dense
I used to service the little CNC machines they had retrofitted to perform the actual grinding. I was always fascinated by the automation y'all had designed to get the individual teeth loaded into that machine. Hopefully they're no longer using salt-water as a grinding medium...
It's the middle of the night, i don't own a chainsaw, nor have I operated one for years so i have absolutely no reason to wanna know how to sharpen them better but here I am and i am absolutely not regretting it❤
Tony, it is actually us who enjoy your company and, in the recesses of our machine oil-stained souls, yearn for it. You've put a caption on the screen for people who want to skip ahead. May I just politely and with all respect laugh in your face? I guarantee you, there is no one who would do that! Yes, we learn about things from you and your videos are full of practical advice and machinist's wisdom, but there is a secret reason we all watch you. We love your company and we want to hear your voice and laugh and forget our worries for that short time we can spend with your virtual self. Thank you for all you bring to this world, Tony!
No. While your viewership and enthusiasm is very much appreciated, Tony already told you several times, sir! He will not send you a pair of his soiled gym socks. Also, your idea regarding the release of an annual calendar will be taken into consideration, though the pantsless w/toolbelt suggestion may not align with the usual message and aim of this channel. Thank you. :^)
Yes Tony makes us all believe that he is our friend, a virtual friend, but our friend. For all you losers that think you have a friend, try borrowing a tool from "your friend". He's here for entertainment, he is a master word-smith after all, just as is Ave. Don't get me wrong, I love Tot, but I don't think he's going to be a friend of mine anytime soon, and I wouldn't miss a video for anything. Like subscribe and share for my friend Tot.
@@itsamindgame9198it’s hard to say, on the one hand, after seemed to be pushed more and took more force, on the other hand, after took less force but required a little more wiggling and finesse.
Big fan, long time viewer, your channel got me through Covid! As a Finnish IT guy who grew up around chainsaws and has never used or sharpened one, this was a really nice and detailed explanation of how a chainsaw blade works and how to sharpen them. Looking forward for more videos!
I seem to remember him gaining quite a lot of subs during Covid while taking a loooong break from posting. I wonder if that was a general TH-cam thing or mostly channels with binge worthy timeless content like TOT.
@@grosmorisse two fish in a tank, one says to the other, 'remind me, how do we drive this'? Finnish? Maybe he's a trout! I'm working on the chainsaw connection though.
I have owned the more common “Little Brother” to your fancy version for about 25 years. There’s no going back once you figure them out and get good at using them. You’ll want to get yourself a chain breaker and rivet spinner and a 100 foot coil of chain. Then make up several chains , use each one until they’re dull and then you set up your grinder for one side of the chain and sharpen, for instance, all your left-side teeth. Then change your grinder to right-side teeth and sharpen all of those. Then if your rakers need attention set it up for raker grinding. Take small cuts on the teeth. It doesn’t take much. Once you get used to the machine the consistency will be there. You’re going to love this machine - I promise. I have several short vids on my channel. Check them out if you’re so inclined.
I agree on the chain breaker, rivet spinner and 100 foot roll of chain - huge cost and time saving. Baileys Online have a WoodlandPRO Chain Measuring Chart that is a great if you work from 100 foot rolls.
On the question of “Will you go through chains faster?” one consideration would be that you’re more likely to sharpen before your chain is dull as a river rock, improving safety and cut quality.
Next project: Foot pedal clutch cylinder connected to vise piston. -4AN lines and fittings are used for race car brakes. Pretty common and relatively cheap for DIY projects. Thanks for another great video!
I have been doing a lot of cutting lately so looked at several videos. I think yours might be the best explanation I’ve seen. And Tony-ism are always great.
This rounded out my knowledge about filing chainsaws that will come in hand if I ever own a chainsaw, fortunately for me the decision whether to grind or file is still undecided... I will consider the smaller, compact chainsaw for office use, that was good advice.
What a great explanation of Chainsaw sharpening. When I was a kid my dad just told me "have you any idea how expensive that chain is? Sure when can get a new one, then you can come visit me in the poor house in between ruining chains"
I don't think I've ever winced so much during a youtube video, first when the tap broke and then in the sequence when you were sharpening the same tooth over and over and over again. I've missed ToT videos, I get invested!
Hey, Tony! Great vid, as usual! 2 tips from a long-time hand filer and 620 grinder user.... 1. Change the chain pawl to the tall one included. Works much better than the shallow one. No need to spring load... 2. Ditch the included pink wheels and replace them with CBN wheels. You will be thankful you did! All the best from South Africa Mike
Was going to make the CBN wheel suggestion myself! Dressing and messing with those pink wheels lasted me through 2 1/2 pink wheels before I went the CBN route. Consistent and less "mess"!
Great video Tony. Im a dremel chain saw sharpening guy. The battery operated dremel can also come out in the field with me, so its a lot more versatile. I thought you might take that sharpener and try to adapt it to sharpen your mills.
It becomes painfully obvious to me when I have to touch up a full toothed 36 inch bar and then a full 30, then a full 24. Under 15 minutes easy. This is the present and the future. Dont have to take the chain off. USe diamond barrel bits. Diamond doesn't get smaller like stone and stone is too aggressive.
30 or more years ago when I got my first chain saw I thought there had to be a better way than filing. I didn't know Dremel existed but I did own a pneumatic die grinder and assorted diamond burs and one round diamond file. Sharpening blades became a pleasure, as long as I was in reach of my airline.
Im not a tree pro, but i do cut/split 15-20 cords of wood a year. Ive found that my dremel with a 7/16 stone bit is a nice in between. Having the dremel out anyway is nice for when i need to take down the rakers also (about every 5th sharpen or so). I have a cheap 400 watt inverter that plugs into my trucks cigarette lighter that easily runs the dremel, for when I need to touch up the saw on the go. You still need to hold your angles correctly, and be careful not to blue the teeth with heat, but I'd take it over a hand file anyday. Much less of a pain to bring back a trashed chain and touch ups are quick and painless. 3 bits for 6.99 at tractor supply, im sure you can get them much cheaper online. 3x common sizes, same as hand files. Its definitely worth a try. Teeth come out like new.
Having used a similar machine for about ten years now. I get about two to three extra grinds out of the chains, as long as I'm setting up properly. The chains are more consistent and seems to stay sharp longer. It's also faster than hand filing as long as you keep the machine ready on the bench. In the field I use a file guide.
@@GAIS414 I'm no sawyer. Generally I only tackle one tree a day. That's enough for me. That's usually how they come down too. One here, one there. Then the chainsaw comes out to chop it up so I can haul it away. The last one was an 82 foot tall pine that decided to fall down in the front yard.
I was told by a Oregon guy years ago that the burrs left by filling actually help ! I used to file from the outside in ( side with the edge I'm trying to sharpen) so there wouldn't be a burr ! Once I filed from the inside out and didn't worry about the burr it did cut better For What it's worth. Thanks 👍 enjoyed your video
I used to sell Chain Saws, and this video its a really good way to teach someone new to it for sure... Thanks Tony (please, next time you're on the market for one, check out the Echo brand... it is made in Japan) ;D
Tony, Other TH-camrs love to ramble on about how their methods are the best because they are handed down from generations of craftsmen but you cut through all of the doubt and arguments about every issue with things like your patented after after side by side comparison. Truly the best in the business! Well done sir.
Those Oregon saw chain sharpeners are the bees knees! We used to sharpen our chains by hand and they'd be pretty sharp, but after getting the sharpener our saw chains are razor sharp. They do take some getting used to, and in my experience you do have to lightly "kiss" the chain. Once you get used to them though, they are a game changer. We have a tree farm and about 12 chain saws of various sizes, so we're sharpening a lot of chains. Probably not necessary for someone with 1 or 2 chain saws. Also the hydraulic clamp would probably be a bummer as you mentioned, ours has the manual one and it's not a problem to use that way. Great video as usual.
Loved the metric tree joke 🙂 I've always understood the line on each tooth to be the maximum amount of metal you can file back before the chain is worn out. I'd not considered the angle check, nice idea. I tend to file when working in the field, then run the grinder on the chain before putting the tool away, so the teeth are uniform and sharp ready for next time. I agree that the grinder does take off more, I've found that you need to set the tooth position separately when switching between the lefts and the rights. I advance the tooth towards the wheel until its just cutting enough. The other handy one is to flip the chain bar regularly so that it wears uniformly on both sides and you get better life from it.
That’s life, Tony. We don’t get to choose the tales Tony’s hands tell, we just have to strap in and stare into the gaping maw of chaos and accept our fate.
I am absolutely chain grinder curious, and I’m very happy to see this kind of video from a TH-camr who has the same kind of humor as I do. I need to consider chain grinding as I have 10+ 6 ft logs of California coastal oak to mill into boards, and my new ripping chain is already showing some signs of wear. A lot of filing is fine, but can also be tiring when you are already breaking your back lugging around 1000 pounds of logs. So I’m seeing the potential of a Oregon chain grinder in my future, and possibly a tormek as well… any day now.
Thank you Tony. I do miss your videos, your dulcet tones, and your paws. I enjoy the fact that you create videos on loads of topics, and that all are excellent.
As someone that can razor sharpen a chain by hand, I can't believe I just watched a 29 min video on it!! LOL great vid. When he mentioned the teeth not being hardened, you would never want super hard teeth on a saw chain because they could easily snap off and strike the operator or a bystander! the speed of a tooth flying off the chain with it wide open at 9000 rpm and getting hit could be pretty bad.
Bought my Husqvarna sharpener at a yard sale for $10, including the 8x2 it was mounted on. Never have used it for sharpening a chain, but that grinding wheel comes in handy for lots of other things so I just mounted it on a floor stand in the shop.
I have probably sharpened hundreds of Chains over the last years. I have never seen those markings on the Teeth. I really like the "Stihl" combo files. They indicate the angle and take of the little depth thing just the right amount.
Yes! That and the Stihl pocket chainsaw vice you can mount on a wood stump. Only thing I use on the go. It's fast, lightweight and simple, it just works. 👌💪
Yes! I used to hate sharpening. I would rather spend an extra 20 mins rubbing through branches with a blunt chain than get the hand file out. Now i have one of those stihl combo things i have found myself sharpening most times i get the saw out. i wouldnt exactly say that i enjoy sharpening but i enjoy using a sharp saw.
@@MarkBeetham Just for a moment I thought you wrote "...found myself sharpening /more/ times than I get the saw out." Glad to know that you haven't got the filing bug that badly.
Wow. Fantastic video. But, by far the most fascinating, interesting part was the revelation that there are metric trees and SAE trees.I did not know that. Furthermore. I went out Into the woods behind my house and used my SAE/ metric caliper, and verified that this is true. Changed my life! Thanks. The very thorough and detailed. Instructions on sharpening saw chains was a mega bonus!!
Thanks for the video. I’ve had those grinders for over 35 years. You are right on about most of your comments about them. My first was a manual locking one. The last fifteen years with an an automatic one, I wished I now had a manual one. Yes your chains don’t last as long as hand filing, but you cut more wood faster. What always gets me is the price of the grinding wheels. Anyone who has a medium to larger chainsaw, should look into getting a skip chain. They cut faster and there are less teeth to sharpen.
As someone who's been 3D printing, feels good to hear that it has it's pros over metal working. I eventually want to build up to metal working, but that is quite an expensive hobby.
The main difference is the manufacturing process difference: Additive versus Subtractive manufacturing Metal working is mostly subtractive, and 3D printing is additive Since you only add material to the surfaces that you want to build up, rather than remove material from the places you DON'T want, you have finer grained control
@@Spiker985Studios Actually, forging of metal provides wonderful grain structure as long as you don't messs with it by machining in the critical locations.
@@bobturnbull18 He meant you have finer granularity of the control itself, not finer grain in the material lol. But he's wrong, machining is orders of magnitude more precise than 3d printing, 3d printing is just far far easier to get complex curves quickly on, and to prototype and iterate designs.
@@Epic501 That was certainly an odd way of expressing the point. I am familiar with both machining and three d printing having both machine tools and a three d printer in my shop . I'll have to revise my opinion of the "granularity" of each.
Love your stuff. The fastest way to sharpen a chain is with a Dremel, or similar, tool with a new cylindrical diamond bit of the correct diameter. With a little practice it's more controllable and accurate than a file, and faster, and many times faster than any other sharpening device.
Love this! I run a 72" chainsaw mill. I bought a similar model and loved hearing your thoughts on it. Ill have to try some finer wheels to help with chain life.
I had a chain grinder and loved the way it sharpened the chain crisp, sharp, and consistent. It took too long to set up and sharpen a chain, so I took it apart and now use the motor and wheel for sharpening small drills and cutting tools. A file is all you need. No grinder, no angle gage, no other gimmicks.
As always, I watch. Not as always, my girlfriend also watches. She laughs and I notice her laughter. Your style reaches beyond general interest for the topic. You are the cool teacher that reaches the minds of the uninterested. You are the uncle all the nephews want to hang out with because he is so funny and smart. I am patiently waiting for a shoot'n the poop. somehow not having a single topic leads you down interesting paths.
Have the same one and use the heck out (side hustle) sharpened 80 plus changes last month. You might consider a CBN grinding wheel. That was a real game changer for me ... grinds lots cooler and profile seems to last forever (well almost forever LOL).
Just sat through 29.52 minutes of a chain saw video and I have absolutely no intention of ever owning one or even borrowing one. But then again, it is TOT!!
Hey fellow laid-out-in-bed-for-a-week person! No bad back here, just a broken ankle. I wish you a fast recovery, this "Stay off your feet" stuff sucks.
Even though I haven't touched a chainsaw in twenty years, I really enjoyed this video. And the after/after comparison convinced me that I need an EDC chainsaw.
My boss had one for our saws for doing post and pole fencing. We had like 30 chains so we just sat done and run some chain. Never slowed us down when we were on the job. Always had sharp saw to
For a second I thought TOT was out in my garage sharpening my chainsaw for me. Then I read that he wasn't actually in Oregon. Then I remembered that I don't have a chainsaw. Or a garage. Or a house.
I grew up in my dad's lawnmower shop. One of the jobs they would give me was sharpening chainsaw chains on a sharpening machine like this, but made in the 70's. It had the catch to push on the back of the cutting tooth. This catch was spring loaded, holding it down, had no side to side play, and the very tip turned up slightly. This upturn would push the tooth down against the guide rails at the cutting side, while the spring tension would hold down the non-cutting end. The guide rails were adjustable, but not a vice like feature. To set the guide rail opening width, you would insert the chain and then tighten down a thumb screw at either end of the guide and pinch down on the bottom of the chain teeth. You'd then back each thumb screw off 1/8 to 1/4 of a turn, giving just enough clearance to allow the chain to slide but not roll. You'd eyeball match the rotational angle. This got you close enough. Then, you'd pitch the head over to a default setting, which was not the right setting, but close enough to get started. The catch had an adjustment screw to move it along the guide rails. You'd bring the cutter head down, placing the cutting wheel against the lowest part of the original cutting edge. The catch would be adjusted to this point. The head would then be moved up and down, adjusting the pitch over of the head until the wheel contacted the original cutting face for about half of the edge. Now the cutting would start. The catch arm would be adjusted half a turn of the screw, and the whole chain would be run through on these settings. This would clean up about 3/4 of the vertical cutting face. The catch would be advanced another half turn, and the chain ran through again. This would repeat until it was close to grinding the cutting corner. At the back of the grinder was a flip down arm with an adjustment screw. This would limit the vertical limit of the grinding wheel. The wheel would be set against a tooth, at the corner, and the vertical limit adjusting screw would be gently snugged, then backed off half a turn. The vertical limit arm would then be put in a third position, where the adjustment screw on it was lined up with a spring loaded pin that had a big knob on it. Push the knob in, and the vertical travel is limited to what was set at the point. The last pass of sharpening, the full front cutting edge and corner were sharpened, you'd push in the knob, bring the head down to this stop, and then advance the chain to the next tooth. While advancing, the grinder would adjust the height of the depth gauge. Everything would be flipped to cut the other set of teeth. This sounds like a lot of work, but with setup and grind time, a single chain only took about 5 minutes. We also offered non-stock grind profiles that the professionals loved We would also do less aggressive profiles for customer machines which didn't have the power for their chain. We could even face the top face of the tooth for a more abrupt corner.. I think my favorite modification was a 3 face faceted corner which gave 3 points for cutting the fiber rather than just one or a wedge.
I appreciate the thorough video. One easy way to use a grinder: I buy four chains at a time. I use all four, then sharpen at the same time so I don't have to change the grinder settings or depth or settings. I use them all again and increase the depth as needed and then grind all four at the same time again. I only fuss over the first tooth on the first blade each time - very easy.
Yeah buddy! Seems like a lot of people ignore the rakes no matter how they sharpen. I cut a lot of softer wood and even some blades right out of the package have an overly conservative rake height for how much bite I want to take. With a 2 in 1 file, they are always right!
Awesome - a half hour **squee!** of new video from the single most personally consequential/my favorite individual on TH-cam!* *I own and use a metal lathe and a TIG welder, both (but especially the latter) because of time spent enjoying _This Old Tony's_ pleasantly excecuted audio (keeping loud, grating, or sudden & jarring metal-cutting noise to a minimum), wonderfully dad-joke-ish sense of humor, and the standout, absolutely _excellent,_ downright artistic production & camera work, that's always left me wondering if Tony was a film student in a past life. These attributes (primarily the production quality and camerawork) have long set Tony apart from almost all other welding and/or machining on the internet - and even inspired the flattery of a few imitators paying clear, if overenthusiastic, homage to their inspiration. We love our This Old Tony!
It's amazing, I've never owned a chain saw, never used a chainsaw, and have no reason to either, yet I sat and watched the entire video engrossed the whole time. I now know exactly how to sharpen a saw chain.
I don't own a chainsaw and I have never cut down a tree on TV. I am here and watching because TOT content is laughable... err... makes me laugh. So glad to see you back and posting again.
Call in Andrew Camarata - he can take care of those stumps for you with his backhoe. Actually why even bother cutting the tree in the first place, just push the whole thing over, root ball and all in one go. Much efficiency
There are aftermarket wheels designed for this size of machine. They say should last up to 10 times longer and give a more consistent grind for each tooth. I bought this machine and intend on looking for the wheels after Christmas. Thanks again for another great video.
Awesome. I do make ripping chains and they need to be consistent. I usually hand file chains for crosscut a few times then stick them on a grinder to get everything back to matching. But when ripping I use the grinder every time. I also use the grinder to take down the rakers(depth guides). When crosscutting as long as a chain is halfway sharp it doesn't have to cut straight for more than 10-20 inches usually at most. But when ripping through 8 or 10 feet the chain has to cut perfectly straight all the way. I don't think perfect angles matter as much as consistency as you mentioned. Thanks Tony
I’ve have a Oregon chain grinder and love it. Over the years I’ve settled on a favorite chain and the grinder now is set and I don’t have to change the angles very often. I have ended up the neighborhood chain sharpener so now all their chains are at my favorite angles.
That was a really excellent vid as usual. Those Stihl 2 in 1 hand sharpeners that simultaneously lower the depth gauge and sharpen are a game changer for me. I have 4x saws and I find that the bar sharpener jig comes out only after I've put the saw into the ground. After I use the bar jig, then the 2 in 1 hand sharpener works again. Before I'd use the conventional hand file about 3x and the 4th time I'd use the bar jig. Now though, the bar jig only comes out after a mishap. Big time saver those sharpeners.
That line on the top of the tooth at the correct cutting angle is also the maximum life of the tooth marker. Can't file or grind any further than that because the root of the tooth is too weak and it'll just snap off in the cut, which makes for a fun time trying to pick it out of the cut before you go at it again with a new chain.
My opinion on these grinders: It depends why you use them. I own a saw chain grinder, it's a chinese model and not really high-end, but I like it. I use it if I hit steel parts or dirt with my saw chain. In this case, a full-chisel chain is dead. Out in the forest, I simply change out my chain. Then, back at home, I sharpen it using my grinder. Try to sharpen a really bad tooth with a file... not my favourite task. But: If i only have a saw chain with dull teeth, I still like to resharpen it with a file. It simply consumes less of the tooth and in case of a moderately worn tooth, it's faster and simpler and, most importantly, it also works in the woods. BTW: I really liked the video! Tony, it's always a pleasure to see/hear from you.
I have been using a grinder like this for years and completely agree with the "CBN" wheel comments I've seen; you definitely should consider trying one. Your observation about the chain clamp causing issues is spot on! I have a cheap knock-off brand grinder and the mechanical chain clamp on it has similar issues. If not careful I can misalign the chain quite severely when using the clamp. I will examine the feasibly of your "spring" idea for my situation. Thanks for a great video!
Imma home gamer when it comes to saws. Living in the forest, however, I tend to use my saw more than someone in the suburbs... least I hope so. I use my 20" saw a few times a year. Careful not to dig the chain into the dirt, or hit a rock... only cutting wood here, I found that my chains get dull quick. Hand filing was my go to method of sharpening the same chain, over and over again... hours and hours of my life spent on running a file at a 30 degree angle across the top of my chain. I got tired of it! I bought this exact same model grinder. Set up was simple enough, after you have spent time with a file, you get to know a thing or two, and it came easy to setup. But gah!! I gotta take the stupid chain off the bar EVERY time I need a sharpen. So, I bought a new chain, because that makes more sense? My method to my madness was to rotate the chains. Once one goes dull, swap it for a sharp one, and grind the dull one on the grinder. Rinse and repeat. That was a few years ago now. I have an old coffee can full of dull chains, and about once a year (typically in the winter) I sit at the grinder and sharpen them all up. I hang the sharp chains on a nail in the wall. During the warmer times of the year, when I'm out making noise with my saw, I simply grab a sharp chain off the nail (plus the one on the saw) and head out to do my work. When I come back, drop the dull chain in the coffee can. I have turned this into somewhat of a side hustle. One of my neighbors saw my grinder and asked what it was. He cuts firewood as his side hustle. Over a few beers in my garage, he offered to pay me to sharpen his chains, $5 per chain. The local hardware store charges $6. He is getting a deal! The word spread and now I grind chains on the regular for 5 different people. I'm not going to be rich anytime soon, but sitting at the bench, sipping a good brew, and making a few bucks, worth it. Awesome review Tony! Love to see it explained so well, as only you can do!
"They do say what doesn't kill you makes you stronger. But no one ever seems to mention how it chips away at your sanity." This is the real-world experience you don't get on other channels.
I think you can recycle sanity chips. Not into more sanity, but like sell it for art glitter or something
Step 1: break sanity into bite sized chips
Step 2: ??????????
Step 3: profit!
@@bdkj3e "eating sanity" starts getting into some lovecraftian or dungeons and dragons level stuff... Possibly both. Additional research is required
what doesn't kill you... gives you unhealthy coping mechanisms.
I usually say it leaves you scarred and diminished.
Loved the After-After comparison, really focuses the difference between after sharpening and before it gets dull again.
That is truly the only comparison that's important.
I know. I know. I am watching yet another chain saw video by ToT. What Tony doesn't realize is that I could care less about chain saws, but listening to Tony's hands tell us what is going on is what brings me here and gets me to stay, and even watch again.
@@CapelAdventurer Nope. He cares a lot, so could care less.
Doesn't really matter what he talks about, just listening to his voice is a pleasure
@@stupot_64 “could care less” means that you DO care somewhat.
COULDNT care less means even if you tried, you would not be able to care less which means your level of care is zero.
if you “care level” is ANYTHING above zero, then yes, you “could care less”
i don’t understand what is so difficult about this very basic statement for so many people to understand.
@@galaxybrian8039 As I said "he cares a lot" so he could easily "care less"
@All 4 Espi How much would you say you care about chainsaws on a scale from 0-100?
It’s ridiculous how long I’ve been watching Tony and how I still get excited like an 8 year old in a candy store whenever a new vidya pops ip
i dont believe you have ever sharpened a chain. you just ruined that chain by sharpening it backward.
Yeah me too. LOL, it has been about a year and I came across this by accident. I didn't even know what the subject was or that it was TOT. But when I saw the "HANDS".. I knew I was in it for a spell.... 🙂 Thanks as always Tony....
Could I confess something, Tony?
I only get my chainsaw out every two or three years and I thought that when the blade went dull, you either bought a new one or found a professional to re-sharpen the old blade. Then, one day, I was buying a new saw chain and saw that the shop had a sharpening kit. IIRC it was less than £20 - essentially a file and a guide and a leaflet in a plastic wallet.
Fortunately, I never throw anything out, so I have a dozen blunt blades and I can now re-use them all.
For an occasional user, like me, I don't see the point of buying a grinder. The file and the guide let me bring the chain back to life in five minutes. I'll probably die before I use up my store of old blades. Possibly by bleeding out of my femoral artery.
A chainsaw grinder is not for the casual user. The one here is $500ish.
@@1pcfred Eek! That's more than I paid for my chainsaw!
@@nicholashacking381 there's cheaper brands out there. Some are very cheap. They may suffer from some of the problems that ToT was expecting though.
You can get a cheap dremel attachment IIRC, that works pretty well. I think I saw someone using one of the grinding stones shaped like a dowel that worked like the round file except rotating vs back and forth.
@@1pcfred why not machine a structure to strap in a normal grinder? Make it bulky and tight or even destroy the old grinder in the process to make it sturdier.
either way seems cheaper(and cooler) than spending 500$ on a fancy(overpriced) mounting vice with a grinder attached to it
"Live, learn, forget, learn again. That's my way."
As a cantankerous middle-aged (former) chainsaw user, I appreciate the truth in these words.
Before hand filing, mount an overhead green laser to the angle you want to file at. It won't help much, but will sure make filing more fun. 👍
Lasers make everything better. And bacon. You can never go wrong adding lasers or bacon.
@@feynthefallen and magnets!
@@unglud and Banana Boat song on the radio.
@@feynthefallen why not go a step further
laser bacon
@Dairis Kuznecovs now we're cooking!
The "after" and "after" shots really showed the difference between the dull chain and the freshly sharpened one! I almost couldn't believe the difference!!! wow! 😍😍😍 I wonder what the "before" and "before" comparison would be....
The after/after comparison: for when you don't think to take a before shot.
"whether is here in the garage or out at the club, i enjoy grinding" - This Old Tony 2023 - This guy is a f'in lyrical wordsmith
Srsly, needs a Superhero Franchise, right? "Bump and Grind"
This man is also using his chain saw to make a wood/metal hanger @27:30, so he's kinda a legend.
I worked for Oregon Tool in the Machine Design Dept, designing the chain assembly/grinding machines. I learned SO MUCH about chain cutter geometry in the short time I was there and it’s fun to see it talked about again :-)
Hate to admit it but I have an irrational dislike for Oregon Tool only because when i worked at FedEx they were really heavy and awkward boxes to move around since they were so dense
I used to service the little CNC machines they had retrofitted to perform the actual grinding. I was always fascinated by the automation y'all had designed to get the individual teeth loaded into that machine.
Hopefully they're no longer using salt-water as a grinding medium...
I don't even own a chainsaw and I'm still here watching these. But boy am I prepared when I get one!
Ehhh, I don't own a welder or a mill but I've watched every welding video he's done. Nobody is judging you around here.
I don’t own a mill a lathe a surface grinder or a welder. And I’m here anyway!!!
Every man should own a chainsaw. Even if it's a small one ya never use 😁
I guess what you are stating, because I own all those tools, and am wondering why in heaven did I watch this?
Move somewhere you actually need one and you'll learn right quick.
This old Tony is my new favourite 3D printing channel. This has increased my engagement by at least 27%
It's the middle of the night, i don't own a chainsaw, nor have I operated one for years so i have absolutely no reason to wanna know how to sharpen them better but here I am and i am absolutely not regretting it❤
When you do have to operate a chainsaw a sharp chain is a definite plus.
you shouldnt operate youtube at night while wild chainsaws are outside.
@@1pcfred i prefer a very dim witted chainsaw. Cant be smarter then me
@@jodygarcia9892 Lmao! You Win! (fighting game voice)
Yup ! (And I didn't ever operate one)
Finally, this video was all the justification I needed: I went and bought a new surface grinder. Thanks This Old Tony!
lol niiice!
Tony, it is actually us who enjoy your company and, in the recesses of our machine oil-stained souls, yearn for it.
You've put a caption on the screen for people who want to skip ahead. May I just politely and with all respect laugh in your face? I guarantee you, there is no one who would do that! Yes, we learn about things from you and your videos are full of practical advice and machinist's wisdom, but there is a secret reason we all watch you. We love your company and we want to hear your voice and laugh and forget our worries for that short time we can spend with your virtual self.
Thank you for all you bring to this world, Tony!
Oh how true.
You hooked me with your statement.
Wouldn't we all want a friend like TOT....
Amen to that, Dude.
No. While your viewership and enthusiasm is very much appreciated, Tony already told you several times, sir! He will not send you a pair of his soiled gym socks. Also, your idea regarding the release of an annual calendar will be taken into consideration, though the pantsless w/toolbelt suggestion may not align with the usual message and aim of this channel. Thank you. :^)
That's probably the nicest comment I've seen in 2023, and it's true !
Yes Tony makes us all believe that he is our friend, a virtual friend, but our friend. For all you losers that think you have a friend, try borrowing a tool from "your friend". He's here for entertainment, he is a master word-smith after all, just as is Ave. Don't get me wrong, I love Tot, but I don't think he's going to be a friend of mine anytime soon, and I wouldn't miss a video for anything. Like subscribe and share for my friend Tot.
"Live, Learn, Forget, Learn Again" wise words that should be on a T-Shirt
Two videos in less than a month, that's great 🎉
Loved to hear the comparison between after and after sharpening, the after definitely did better
I don't know. I thought after was a bit quicker.
@@itsamindgame9198,Well, that depends, which after were you talking about?
@@Hoaxer51 Yes
@@itsamindgame9198it’s hard to say, on the one hand, after seemed to be pushed more and took more force, on the other hand, after took less force but required a little more wiggling and finesse.
I suppose it depends what or which after you are after, after all; I'll have to think about after or after after watching after and after again.
Big fan, long time viewer, your channel got me through Covid! As a Finnish IT guy who grew up around chainsaws and has never used or sharpened one, this was a really nice and detailed explanation of how a chainsaw blade works and how to sharpen them. Looking forward for more videos!
I seem to remember him gaining quite a lot of subs during Covid while taking a loooong break from posting. I wonder if that was a general TH-cam thing or mostly channels with binge worthy timeless content like TOT.
You mean plandemic
How are you Finnish, brought up around chainsaws, but NEVER used OR sharpened a chain?
@@bikerfirefarter7280 plenty of canadians don't play hockey
@@grosmorisse two fish in a tank, one says to the other, 'remind me, how do we drive this'?
Finnish? Maybe he's a trout!
I'm working on the chainsaw connection though.
I didn't click on a chainsaw sharpening video, I clicked on a This Old Tony video.
This is exactly how I feel!!!
Seriously, his videos could be about anything and I would always find myself better informed and well entertained afterwards.
I have owned the more common “Little Brother” to your fancy version for about 25 years. There’s no going back once you figure them out and get good at using them. You’ll want to get yourself a chain breaker and rivet spinner and a 100 foot coil of chain. Then make up several chains , use each one until they’re dull and then you set up your grinder for one side of the chain and sharpen, for instance, all your left-side teeth. Then change your grinder to right-side teeth and sharpen all of those. Then if your rakers need attention set it up for raker grinding. Take small cuts on the teeth. It doesn’t take much. Once you get used to the machine the consistency will be there. You’re going to love this machine - I promise. I have several short vids on my channel. Check them out if you’re so inclined.
I agree on the chain breaker, rivet spinner and 100 foot roll of chain - huge cost and time saving. Baileys Online have a WoodlandPRO Chain Measuring Chart that is a great if you work from 100 foot rolls.
On the question of “Will you go through chains faster?” one consideration would be that you’re more likely to sharpen before your chain is dull as a river rock, improving safety and cut quality.
Next project: Foot pedal clutch cylinder connected to vise piston.
-4AN lines and fittings are used for race car brakes. Pretty common and relatively cheap for DIY projects.
Thanks for another great video!
And an hour of chain sharpening with GAS GAS GAS song. With inserts of Tony pressing the pedal and SPEEED effects.
Tony I'm always excited to see you work on something. The father figure I never had.
Take it easy
Hey, as long as he is keeping up on the child support payments, it's all good... right?
I have been doing a lot of cutting lately so looked at several videos. I think yours might be the best explanation I’ve seen. And Tony-ism are always great.
This rounded out my knowledge about filing chainsaws that will come in hand if I ever own a chainsaw, fortunately for me the decision whether to grind or file is still undecided... I will consider the smaller, compact chainsaw for office use, that was good advice.
Yes, the office-sized model is excellent for cutting through red tape, or those who apply the red tape.
@@Kineth1 Ah... That makes the need for the chain sharpener more obvious! 🤣
I love "Old Tony's" channel -- always a great pleasure with each video.
Greetings from Münster in Germany.
What a great explanation of Chainsaw sharpening. When I was a kid my dad just told me "have you any idea how expensive that chain is? Sure when can get a new one, then you can come visit me in the poor house in between ruining chains"
I would watch paint dry with your commentary. Always excited to see your name pop up when you release a new video.
Part of me says "don't encourage him", one of the other parts says " I'll bet he could still make it enthralling".
I don't think I've ever winced so much during a youtube video, first when the tap broke and then in the sequence when you were sharpening the same tooth over and over and over again. I've missed ToT videos, I get invested!
I'm blown away by that After-After comparison. Such an improvement! 😮
I can't believe This Old Tony is here 🎉
We missed you a lot.
...we missed you a tot
@@nline2blast722 I see what you did there.. Pretty cool.
Hey, Tony! Great vid, as usual! 2 tips from a long-time hand filer and 620 grinder user....
1. Change the chain pawl to the tall one included. Works much better than the shallow one. No need to spring load...
2. Ditch the included pink wheels and replace them with CBN wheels. You will be thankful you did!
All the best from South Africa
Mike
Was going to make the CBN wheel suggestion myself! Dressing and messing with those pink wheels lasted me through 2 1/2 pink wheels before I went the CBN route. Consistent and less "mess"!
Great video Tony. Im a dremel chain saw sharpening guy. The battery operated dremel can also come out in the field with me, so its a lot more versatile. I thought you might take that sharpener and try to adapt it to sharpen your mills.
the dremel is the way to go
It becomes painfully obvious to me when I have to touch up a full toothed 36 inch bar and then a full 30, then a full 24. Under 15 minutes easy. This is the present and the future. Dont have to take the chain off.
USe diamond barrel bits. Diamond doesn't get smaller like stone and stone is too aggressive.
30 or more years ago when I got my first chain saw I thought there had to be a better way than filing.
I didn't know Dremel existed but I did own a pneumatic die grinder and assorted diamond burs and one round diamond file.
Sharpening blades became a pleasure, as long as I was in reach of my airline.
Im not a tree pro, but i do cut/split 15-20 cords of wood a year. Ive found that my dremel with a 7/16 stone bit is a nice in between. Having the dremel out anyway is nice for when i need to take down the rakers also (about every 5th sharpen or so). I have a cheap 400 watt inverter that plugs into my trucks cigarette lighter that easily runs the dremel, for when I need to touch up the saw on the go.
You still need to hold your angles correctly, and be careful not to blue the teeth with heat, but I'd take it over a hand file anyday. Much less of a pain to bring back a trashed chain and touch ups are quick and painless. 3 bits for 6.99 at tractor supply, im sure you can get them much cheaper online. 3x common sizes, same as hand files. Its definitely worth a try. Teeth come out like new.
Maybe you could build an override valve on the hydraulic clamping to allow you to adjust the position of the chain.
Thanks for the video!
or have it clock the next tooth in like a revolver every time you fully lift the handle.
That occurred to me too, seemed an obvious and simple fix. A tee and a toggle piston, bosh/done.
Not only did I watch this the first time, I watched it again. I cannot emphasize how much I love your videos.
Having used a similar machine for about ten years now. I get about two to three extra grinds out of the chains, as long as I'm setting up properly. The chains are more consistent and seems to stay sharp longer. It's also faster than hand filing as long as you keep the machine ready on the bench. In the field I use a file guide.
In the field I just try to keep the chain out of the dirt and I run what I brung.
@@1pcfred Well so do any sawyer. But if you work enough hours, eventually you will have to switch chain or sharpen it.
@@GAIS414 I'm no sawyer. Generally I only tackle one tree a day. That's enough for me. That's usually how they come down too. One here, one there. Then the chainsaw comes out to chop it up so I can haul it away. The last one was an 82 foot tall pine that decided to fall down in the front yard.
I was told by a Oregon guy years ago that the burrs left by filling actually help ! I used to file from the outside in ( side with the edge I'm trying to sharpen) so there wouldn't be a burr ! Once I filed from the inside out and didn't worry about the burr it did cut better For What it's worth. Thanks 👍 enjoyed your video
I used to sell Chain Saws, and this video its a really good way to teach someone new to it for sure... Thanks Tony (please, next time you're on the market for one, check out the Echo brand... it is made in Japan) ;D
I'm grateful that you showed us the after and after comparison. It really put it all into perspective.
Even more petrol beaver content? We might come to think you are lumberjack.
Good to see you (or your hands)
Tony,
Other TH-camrs love to ramble on about how their methods are the best because they are handed down from generations of craftsmen but you cut through all of the doubt and arguments about every issue with things like your patented after after side by side comparison.
Truly the best in the business!
Well done sir.
Those Oregon saw chain sharpeners are the bees knees! We used to sharpen our chains by hand and they'd be pretty sharp, but after getting the sharpener our saw chains are razor sharp. They do take some getting used to, and in my experience you do have to lightly "kiss" the chain. Once you get used to them though, they are a game changer. We have a tree farm and about 12 chain saws of various sizes, so we're sharpening a lot of chains. Probably not necessary for someone with 1 or 2 chain saws. Also the hydraulic clamp would probably be a bummer as you mentioned, ours has the manual one and it's not a problem to use that way. Great video as usual.
Loved the metric tree joke 🙂
I've always understood the line on each tooth to be the maximum amount of metal you can file back before the chain is worn out. I'd not considered the angle check, nice idea.
I tend to file when working in the field, then run the grinder on the chain before putting the tool away, so the teeth are uniform and sharp ready for next time. I agree that the grinder does take off more, I've found that you need to set the tooth position separately when switching between the lefts and the rights. I advance the tooth towards the wheel until its just cutting enough.
The other handy one is to flip the chain bar regularly so that it wears uniformly on both sides and you get better life from it.
That’s life, Tony. We don’t get to choose the tales Tony’s hands tell, we just have to strap in and stare into the gaping maw of chaos and accept our fate.
I am absolutely chain grinder curious, and I’m very happy to see this kind of video from a TH-camr who has the same kind of humor as I do.
I need to consider chain grinding as I have 10+ 6 ft logs of California coastal oak to mill into boards, and my new ripping chain is already showing some signs of wear. A lot of filing is fine, but can also be tiring when you are already breaking your back lugging around 1000 pounds of logs.
So I’m seeing the potential of a Oregon chain grinder in my future, and possibly a tormek as well… any day now.
God i always enjoy your content and delivery. Just wish you could do this more often.
Thank you Tony. I do miss your videos, your dulcet tones, and your paws. I enjoy the fact that you create videos on loads of topics, and that all are excellent.
As someone that can razor sharpen a chain by hand, I can't believe I just watched a 29 min video on it!! LOL great vid. When he mentioned the teeth not being hardened, you would never want super hard teeth on a saw chain because they could easily snap off and strike the operator or a bystander! the speed of a tooth flying off the chain with it wide open at 9000 rpm and getting hit could be pretty bad.
Bought my Husqvarna sharpener at a yard sale for $10, including the 8x2 it was mounted on. Never have used it for sharpening a chain, but that grinding wheel comes in handy for lots of other things so I just mounted it on a floor stand in the shop.
I have probably sharpened hundreds of Chains over the last years. I have never seen those markings on the Teeth.
I really like the "Stihl" combo files. They indicate the angle and take of the little depth thing just the right amount.
Yes! That and the Stihl pocket chainsaw vice you can mount on a wood stump. Only thing I use on the go. It's fast, lightweight and simple, it just works. 👌💪
Yes! I used to hate sharpening. I would rather spend an extra 20 mins rubbing through branches with a blunt chain than get the hand file out. Now i have one of those stihl combo things i have found myself sharpening most times i get the saw out. i wouldnt exactly say that i enjoy sharpening but i enjoy using a sharp saw.
Pferd makes those for Stihl. They are great!
@@MarkBeetham Just for a moment I thought you wrote "...found myself sharpening /more/ times than I get the saw out." Glad to know that you haven't got the filing bug that badly.
Wow. Fantastic video. But, by far the most fascinating, interesting part was the revelation that there are metric trees and SAE trees.I did not know that. Furthermore. I went out Into the woods behind my house and used my SAE/ metric caliper, and verified that this is true. Changed my life! Thanks. The very thorough and detailed. Instructions on sharpening saw chains was a mega bonus!!
That was so much fun, Tony. I always love your videos, even though I'm not really a 'chain saw guy'.
Thanks for the video. I’ve had those grinders for over 35 years. You are right on about most of your comments about them. My first was a manual locking one. The last fifteen years with an an automatic one, I wished I now had a manual one. Yes your chains don’t last as long as hand filing, but you cut more wood faster. What always gets me is the price of the grinding wheels. Anyone who has a medium to larger chainsaw, should look into getting a skip chain. They cut faster and there are less teeth to sharpen.
As someone who's been 3D printing, feels good to hear that it has it's pros over metal working. I eventually want to build up to metal working, but that is quite an expensive hobby.
The main difference is the manufacturing process difference: Additive versus Subtractive manufacturing
Metal working is mostly subtractive, and 3D printing is additive
Since you only add material to the surfaces that you want to build up, rather than remove material from the places you DON'T want, you have finer grained control
@@Spiker985Studios Actually, forging of metal provides wonderful grain structure as long as you don't messs with it by machining in the critical locations.
@@bobturnbull18 He meant you have finer granularity of the control itself, not finer grain in the material lol.
But he's wrong, machining is orders of magnitude more precise than 3d printing, 3d printing is just far far easier to get complex curves quickly on, and to prototype and iterate designs.
@@Epic501 That was certainly an odd way of expressing the point. I am familiar with both machining and three d printing having both machine tools and a three d printer in my shop . I'll have to revise my opinion of the "granularity" of each.
"In hindsight, maybe wasn't super important, but it did two things. First and most importantly; CONTENT" liked and subscribed. done and done.
Watching that tap break really hurt, and sent chills down my spine thinking back to CNC holes drilled shallower then the tap was going….😢
As usual, killer indepth analysis that comes to a point. Thanks keff
Love your stuff.
The fastest way to sharpen a chain is with a Dremel, or similar, tool with a new cylindrical diamond bit of the correct diameter. With a little practice it's more controllable and accurate than a file, and faster, and many times faster than any other sharpening device.
_watches a Dremel head yeet off the wall and outside the garage_
@@LabGecko well, you need to be competent.
*By far the clearest Vid I've watched on Chain Sharpening. The 1st 15-20 minutes are an absolute Must See*
Love this! I run a 72" chainsaw mill. I bought a similar model and loved hearing your thoughts on it. Ill have to try some finer wheels to help with chain life.
I had a chain grinder and loved the way it sharpened the chain crisp, sharp, and consistent. It took too long to set up and sharpen a chain, so I took it apart and now use the motor and wheel for sharpening small drills and cutting tools. A file is all you need. No grinder, no angle gage, no other gimmicks.
Finally a youtuber that recognizes the hardships of us metric forest lumberjacks. 😂
As always, I watch. Not as always, my girlfriend also watches. She laughs and I notice her laughter. Your style reaches beyond general interest for the topic.
You are the cool teacher that reaches the minds of the uninterested. You are the uncle all the nephews want to hang out with because he is so funny and smart.
I am patiently waiting for a shoot'n the poop. somehow not having a single topic leads you down interesting paths.
Have the same one and use the heck out (side hustle) sharpened 80 plus changes last month. You might consider a CBN grinding wheel. That was a real game changer for me ... grinds lots cooler and profile seems to last forever (well almost forever LOL).
Just sat through 29.52 minutes of a chain saw video and I have absolutely no intention of ever owning one or even borrowing one. But then again, it is TOT!!
I’ve been laid out in bed for the past week with a bad back, and this video is the best thing that has happened so far! Good to see you, TOT!
Depending how back your back is, check out: Stuart McGill, Brian Carroll…
I hope you recover soon
@@markm0000 thanks I’m definitely on the mend.
@@richardj163 thanks Rich. I’ll probably start sometime the end of next week. You’re the second person to suggest that. I appreciate it!
Hey fellow laid-out-in-bed-for-a-week person! No bad back here, just a broken ankle. I wish you a fast recovery, this "Stay off your feet" stuff sucks.
Even though I haven't touched a chainsaw in twenty years, I really enjoyed this video.
And the after/after comparison convinced me that I need an EDC chainsaw.
Woohooo another chainsaw sharpening video I can't wait to share it with all my friends at the chainsaw sharpening society!
_"IIIIIII'm a Lumberjack and I'm okay...."_
My boss had one for our saws for doing post and pole fencing. We had like 30 chains so we just sat done and run some chain. Never slowed us down when we were on the job. Always had sharp saw to
For a second I thought TOT was out in my garage sharpening my chainsaw for me. Then I read that he wasn't actually in Oregon. Then I remembered that I don't have a chainsaw. Or a garage. Or a house.
Thank you for the education and humor you've brought into my life with your videos. So glad to see you back 🙂
I grew up in my dad's lawnmower shop. One of the jobs they would give me was sharpening chainsaw chains on a sharpening machine like this, but made in the 70's. It had the catch to push on the back of the cutting tooth. This catch was spring loaded, holding it down, had no side to side play, and the very tip turned up slightly. This upturn would push the tooth down against the guide rails at the cutting side, while the spring tension would hold down the non-cutting end. The guide rails were adjustable, but not a vice like feature. To set the guide rail opening width, you would insert the chain and then tighten down a thumb screw at either end of the guide and pinch down on the bottom of the chain teeth. You'd then back each thumb screw off 1/8 to 1/4 of a turn, giving just enough clearance to allow the chain to slide but not roll. You'd eyeball match the rotational angle. This got you close enough. Then, you'd pitch the head over to a default setting, which was not the right setting, but close enough to get started. The catch had an adjustment screw to move it along the guide rails. You'd bring the cutter head down, placing the cutting wheel against the lowest part of the original cutting edge. The catch would be adjusted to this point. The head would then be moved up and down, adjusting the pitch over of the head until the wheel contacted the original cutting face for about half of the edge. Now the cutting would start. The catch arm would be adjusted half a turn of the screw, and the whole chain would be run through on these settings. This would clean up about 3/4 of the vertical cutting face. The catch would be advanced another half turn, and the chain ran through again. This would repeat until it was close to grinding the cutting corner. At the back of the grinder was a flip down arm with an adjustment screw. This would limit the vertical limit of the grinding wheel. The wheel would be set against a tooth, at the corner, and the vertical limit adjusting screw would be gently snugged, then backed off half a turn. The vertical limit arm would then be put in a third position, where the adjustment screw on it was lined up with a spring loaded pin that had a big knob on it. Push the knob in, and the vertical travel is limited to what was set at the point. The last pass of sharpening, the full front cutting edge and corner were sharpened, you'd push in the knob, bring the head down to this stop, and then advance the chain to the next tooth. While advancing, the grinder would adjust the height of the depth gauge. Everything would be flipped to cut the other set of teeth. This sounds like a lot of work, but with setup and grind time, a single chain only took about 5 minutes. We also offered non-stock grind profiles that the professionals loved We would also do less aggressive profiles for customer machines which didn't have the power for their chain. We could even face the top face of the tooth for a more abrupt corner.. I think my favorite modification was a 3 face faceted corner which gave 3 points for cutting the fiber rather than just one or a wedge.
I appreciate the thorough video. One easy way to use a grinder: I buy four chains at a time. I use all four, then sharpen at the same time so I don't have to change the grinder settings or depth or settings. I use them all again and increase the depth as needed and then grind all four at the same time again. I only fuss over the first tooth on the first blade each time - very easy.
The hand filer from Stihl is pretty damn good. Never been real good with a file but I get REALLY good results with it.
I could never get the rakers to match up with the teeth height before, and I will ONLY use this tool now!
Yeah buddy! Seems like a lot of people ignore the rakes no matter how they sharpen. I cut a lot of softer wood and even some blades right out of the package have an overly conservative rake height for how much bite I want to take. With a 2 in 1 file, they are always right!
ToT, is a scholarly gentleman of the home garage and CLC can crowd. Truly, an American gem and gift to us all. Chaw and Gnar on, brothers.
Awesome - a half hour **squee!** of new video from the single most personally consequential/my favorite individual on TH-cam!*
*I own and use a metal lathe and a TIG welder, both (but especially the latter) because of time spent enjoying _This Old Tony's_ pleasantly excecuted audio (keeping loud, grating, or sudden & jarring metal-cutting noise to a minimum), wonderfully dad-joke-ish sense of humor, and the standout, absolutely _excellent,_ downright artistic production & camera work, that's always left me wondering if Tony was a film student in a past life. These attributes (primarily the production quality and camerawork) have long set Tony apart from almost all other welding and/or machining on the internet - and even inspired the flattery of a few imitators paying clear, if overenthusiastic, homage to their inspiration.
We love our This Old Tony!
I liked the "after vs after" side by side clip to really give us a visual representation of just how much better it was after!
I'm no arborist, so how can I tell if my trees are metric?
They look at you funny if you fractionalise them.
As crazy as saying 65 hundreds of a millimeter.
It's amazing, I've never owned a chain saw, never used a chainsaw, and have no reason to either, yet I sat and watched the entire video engrossed the whole time. I now know exactly how to sharpen a saw chain.
A This old Tony video.
My day can't be better. ❤
Wait, is it a chainsaw video?
I don't own a chainsaw and I have never cut down a tree on TV. I am here and watching because TOT content is laughable... err... makes me laugh. So glad to see you back and posting again.
for as long as you have been posting chainsaw videos, I imagine a once dense forest standing tall and proud, now a desolate and stumpy landscape :)
Call in Andrew Camarata - he can take care of those stumps for you with his backhoe. Actually why even bother cutting the tree in the first place, just push the whole thing over, root ball and all in one go. Much efficiency
It used to be called the Sahara Forest, then ToT started having fun with chain saws.
Pretty soon the Lorax may pay a visit!!
I bet he's got a lot more wooden kitchen utensils now.
There are aftermarket wheels designed for this size of machine. They say should last up to 10 times longer and give a more consistent grind for each tooth. I bought this machine and intend on looking for the wheels after Christmas.
Thanks again for another great video.
Awesome. I do make ripping chains and they need to be consistent. I usually hand file chains for crosscut a few times then stick them on a grinder to get everything back to matching. But when ripping I use the grinder every time. I also use the grinder to take down the rakers(depth guides). When crosscutting as long as a chain is halfway sharp it doesn't have to cut straight for more than 10-20 inches usually at most. But when ripping through 8 or 10 feet the chain has to cut perfectly straight all the way. I don't think perfect angles matter as much as consistency as you mentioned. Thanks Tony
I’ve have a Oregon chain grinder and love it. Over the years I’ve settled on a favorite chain and the grinder now is set and I don’t have to change the angles very often. I have ended up the neighborhood chain sharpener so now all their chains are at my favorite angles.
Thought this one was going to be a long grind
But it turned out pretty sharp!
Ps: No video of yours has ever bin a grind
Love you ToTony
That was a really excellent vid as usual.
Those Stihl 2 in 1 hand sharpeners that simultaneously lower the depth gauge and sharpen are a game changer for me.
I have 4x saws and I find that the bar sharpener jig comes out only after I've put the saw into the ground.
After I use the bar jig, then the 2 in 1 hand sharpener works again.
Before I'd use the conventional hand file about 3x and the 4th time I'd use the bar jig. Now though, the bar jig only comes out after a mishap. Big time saver those sharpeners.
I hear good things about them, I might just have to pick one up!
27’22” gave me the giggles which turned into a belly laugh and hiccups. Hysterical! Thanks ToT.
That line on the top of the tooth at the correct cutting angle is also the maximum life of the tooth marker. Can't file or grind any further than that because the root of the tooth is too weak and it'll just snap off in the cut, which makes for a fun time trying to pick it out of the cut before you go at it again with a new chain.
It's always a good day when I can watch a This Old Tony video before I go to sleep... Thank you Tony, Good Night. 😁😴
When the hardware store where I used to work invested in a set of diamond wheels for our chain saw sharpener, it was a godsend.
My opinion on these grinders: It depends why you use them. I own a saw chain grinder, it's a chinese model and not really high-end, but I like it. I use it if I hit steel parts or dirt with my saw chain. In this case, a full-chisel chain is dead. Out in the forest, I simply change out my chain. Then, back at home, I sharpen it using my grinder. Try to sharpen a really bad tooth with a file... not my favourite task. But: If i only have a saw chain with dull teeth, I still like to resharpen it with a file. It simply consumes less of the tooth and in case of a moderately worn tooth, it's faster and simpler and, most importantly, it also works in the woods.
BTW: I really liked the video! Tony, it's always a pleasure to see/hear from you.
That’s what I love about your channel - learning about stuff that I didn’t even know existed.
And of course expertly and expertly funny explained ❤
I have been using a grinder like this for years and completely agree with the "CBN" wheel comments I've seen; you definitely should consider trying one. Your observation about the chain clamp causing issues is spot on! I have a cheap knock-off brand grinder and the mechanical chain clamp on it has similar issues. If not careful I can misalign the chain quite severely when using the clamp. I will examine the feasibly of your "spring" idea for my situation. Thanks for a great video!
"The way they down cost things nowadays, I'm surprised the spring is even there." I felt that. I felt that hard.
I had never saw a comparaison video of after and after anywhere. This is first class genius !!
Excellent reference on sharpening chainsaw blades with just the right amount of humor as always!
You answered my question that I didn't ask about the use of the rectangular brick that comes with sanding bits.
Now I know, thanks 👍
Imma home gamer when it comes to saws. Living in the forest, however, I tend to use my saw more than someone in the suburbs... least I hope so. I use my 20" saw a few times a year. Careful not to dig the chain into the dirt, or hit a rock... only cutting wood here, I found that my chains get dull quick. Hand filing was my go to method of sharpening the same chain, over and over again... hours and hours of my life spent on running a file at a 30 degree angle across the top of my chain. I got tired of it!
I bought this exact same model grinder. Set up was simple enough, after you have spent time with a file, you get to know a thing or two, and it came easy to setup. But gah!! I gotta take the stupid chain off the bar EVERY time I need a sharpen. So, I bought a new chain, because that makes more sense? My method to my madness was to rotate the chains. Once one goes dull, swap it for a sharp one, and grind the dull one on the grinder. Rinse and repeat.
That was a few years ago now. I have an old coffee can full of dull chains, and about once a year (typically in the winter) I sit at the grinder and sharpen them all up. I hang the sharp chains on a nail in the wall. During the warmer times of the year, when I'm out making noise with my saw, I simply grab a sharp chain off the nail (plus the one on the saw) and head out to do my work. When I come back, drop the dull chain in the coffee can.
I have turned this into somewhat of a side hustle. One of my neighbors saw my grinder and asked what it was. He cuts firewood as his side hustle. Over a few beers in my garage, he offered to pay me to sharpen his chains, $5 per chain. The local hardware store charges $6. He is getting a deal! The word spread and now I grind chains on the regular for 5 different people. I'm not going to be rich anytime soon, but sitting at the bench, sipping a good brew, and making a few bucks, worth it.
Awesome review Tony! Love to see it explained so well, as only you can do!