My trick for installing the quicklink after waxing is hit the quicklink when already in the chain with a lighter to remelt the wax. Then you can easily squeeze it together.
@@collinsnyder8682, just don’t wax the quick link. Makes install easier. Heat the link after installation and wax on adjacent links should melt into the quick link.
All really good info and food for thought. All our chains on 11 bikes plus spare chains are hot waxed in an old slow cooker. We get many thousands more miles from each chain than we did with "sticky" lube. Our local lanes in Cumbria, NW England are muddy, gritty, wet, and pot holed, even in a good summer. We re-use Quick Links until they go "soft", sometimes seven or eight times. The comments about a good chain tool prompted memories of splitting the chain on my first "real" bike: a 1960's Raleigh Flyer. I used a blunt nail, a ½ inch nut, and a hammer, all found in my Dad's garage. Summer rides of 60 miles after school on a weekday summer evening, a couple of hundred miles on good weekends. Why don't we have time for these now?
1000% agree on not waxing the quick links, based on experience. The wax was giving me a much harder time in installing the quick links. I never tried to force it, as this obviously could compromise safety. So, I decided to install new quick links instead and that went smoothly. That made me realize it must have been the wax on the quick links causing issues with installation.
I reuse a SRAM quick link 20+ times, on multiple chains. No issues so far. Yes, it clicks easier but it still holds. But then I put a new quick link on my race chain before every important race.
Just don't do a bad shift when the quick link is on the cassette. You will blast the quick link open and crash, those things are mad loose when you open them multiple times.
@@veganpotterthevegan You're probably using Di2 and know how to shift. Imagine this guy bearing down on the pedals at 500 watts of body weight while hitting his mech shifter button, it's not safe.
Still have a Rivoli chain tool kicking around the shop somewhere. As is my 1985 Silca floor pump. Poor thing needs some TLC! The skidding tires were FUNNY! Thanks for the laugh.
Pre quick link technology I once made a trail side repair of a broken chain after it broke during a long ride. To this day I remember fondly getting the chain tool to work and successfully getting the fiddly rivet in (with no kinks). I ride with a quick link in my kit now. First time waxing I ended up with too much wax on the QL and twisted the chain enough to have to buy a new one. Bought lessons.
So, I am fortunate to have the full Silca setup to hot wax. Quick-link tip… put it through chain ends and get wax out or the link hole. Remove it, clean it and then put back in and assemble. Have found it impossible to get quick link to “click” without cleaning wax off. Hot wax has shifted the paradigm completely! Thanks for sharing @josh
@@kamilhorvat8290 so the wax heater is about €120. Wax just €48. If you want strip chip (for new chains only) €30 and chain cleaning fluid (for used oil lubed chains) about €45. Benefit of wax machine is temperature control. All of the above are to be used on multiple chains
When I built up my current bike many years ago and realized that I'd need a special Campy chain tool that cost over $100 plus a new and costly pin and a very gentle touch every time I broke or reassembled my chain, I quickly decided to get a quick link instead and haven't looked back. And this was way before I started waxing. I started out with the old Superlink, then switched to KMC links, and now am using a mix of KMC, Connex and YBN links depending on the chain. I did break a KMC link so you do have to keep an eye on them and not use them more than 3-5 times. And I actually do wax my quick links, and just make sure that they snap shut properly, which pushes out the soft wax. But it does complicate things so be careful.
My thumbs up is for your explanation and experience at 9:22 that quick links CAN be reused until you FEEL them go bad. That has been my experience as well and it was well explained and why most of use watched this :). Super happy with Silca wax and the Super Secret lube for top-ups. Thanks!
KMC makes reusable quick links and they are identified as such right on the packaging. Having said that, the Connex Quick Links, IMO, are the state of the art as they require no tools to disassemble or reassemble.
You can make a kink, skip a tooth on your chain ring in any standard quick link and tap it from the top lightly to open it. You don't need tools for any quick link.
I've been using Shimano 11sp quick links for the life of the chain. That's about 10k miles using homemade hot wax with ptfe. They are still tight and require the pliers to the end. I wax the link, but he's right you need to be careful. ONCE I wasn't careful and thought I had linked it, but after about 7 miles of an odd clicking the link broke. I figured I didn't get one end in the slot and the other pin broke with all the force on it only. I now double verify every time I reconnect and never had issues. I'll use a new link with a new chain.
I rewaxed my chain (Shimano CN-HG901 11-Speed) yesterday, 125 C, then 75 C, etc. I let it cool. Then I made 5 passes over the chain. 1) Flex each joint 2-4 times. 2) Scrape the blobs off one side with my thumb nail. 3) Scrape the blobs off the other side. 4) poke a large paper clip through the hollow pin, pushing out a small wax plug. 5) poke a "larger" rod through the hollow pin, pushing out more wax. That left me with a lighter, flexible fresh waxed chain, with much less surface wax. I dreaded connecting the ends with a new Quick-Link. When I put the new (stripped & waxed) chain on in mid May I had to call a bike mechanic friend for suggestions about how to get the Quick-Link to engage. This time, with the ends of the chain cleared of excess surface wax, I got the Quick-Link to engage by pulling the handles of the MLP 1.2 apart. Shocker. Your video makes me think last time the residual surface wax didn't allow the pin notch and tiny shelf to align. I have an event in two weeks and thought a complete re-wax was in order. I touched up the chain a few weeks back with Silca Secret Chain Wax Coating. The chain had 731 mi on it since May 11th. That's about 250 mi/mo of butter smooth noise free riding. Oh, and I made 5 passes over the chain without gloves, hazmat suit, etc. My CC-2 reports .25 for the chain. Waxing agrees with me. Your products and videos are terrific.
Crap I've been waxing the quick links ever since is started deep immersion waxing! I'll stop that right away from now on although I never had a problem.......... so far! Good educational video about quick links!
I have found if you use a reversible quick link tool that lets you also reconnect the link, if you do that in a slow controlled manner you get more uses out of the quick link than the spin link to the top and bang on the crank method.
Great video, I just started waxing my chains this year and made the mistake of waxing my quick links. To say it was difficult to connect would be a understatement. I feel a lot better about not waxing quick links now.
Great info as always, thanks Silca. Jumped on the waxing bandwagon about 8 months ago and never going back, it's simply the best solution for the types of rides I do and my climate. Love it!!
I do wax my chains and also have waxed the quick link. It's on the bike now and I'm going to leave it alone until the next waxing where I'll just wax the chain itself. However, now you got me thinking about the directional issue. I had no idea that there's a direction to some chains AND the quick links. I will now inspect closely to see if I installed them correctly. Thanks much.
First time waxer, Sram 12 speed chain. Removed quick link, cleaned chain, hot waxed. Put on new quick link. Got weird skipping at quick link. Tried everything, eventually took the bike to a pro. I knew the quick link looked off but I’ve never removed my own chain before. Anyway, in the removal process, the rollers had come out. I was told 12 speed chains aren’t as tight as 10 or 11 speeds so be mindful. Not sure if the rollers are on my garage floor or in the wax. Felt kinda dumb but a heads up for the 12 speed folks.
I've had rollers fall out too, I use an old worn quick link to keep the chain together when waxing. Being a worn quick link you still get plenty of wax in the chain.
I just used a Shimano 11 speed link for 12 Hot Wax’s and it clearly still worked BUT was noticeably a bit lose SO i put in my pack for a rainy day and used a new one A new quick link every 3000 miles in my budget 🎉
Glad you made this Josh. Shimano QuickLinks… supposedly directional but have an arrow on both parts, which means at least one part HAS to go the wrong way! Has anyone else noticed this?
The directionality of the Shimano quicklink should be matched to the side facing outward, same as the chain directionality itself, the text should be facing outward when viewed from the drive side. I agree that the quicklink is confusing as it ends up pointing both directions!!
The worst part is if you're using a Connex link it's the opposite (the bigger end leads on the outside). All the other ones it's as shown for Shimano in the video. Wipperman explains it so that the normal end is getting picked up first on the larger cog on the cassette, I'd live to know the rationale for the others (Shimano, Sram, KMC). I must admit that I've discovered ot wrong when removing chains for rewaxing multiple times and had never noticed while riding. I do wax the quick links, mostly just to keep them together with their chains when I'm cleaning/waxing multiple chains at once, but I scrape the excess off (leaving a thin coating) to avoid the installation problem.
I have been waxing for at least a decade. I wax multiple chains at a time with the quick link on so it is waxed and easier to connect. I change chains weekly very often so my links get a lot of action. I've never had an issue.
Been using KMC reusable quicklinks for years now and work great. One important thing ive learned is to make sure there's no wax/debris in the groove of the quicklinks as they wont connect properly...can happen if you use them to clear the hole of wax in the chain when joining (but im now going to try the other suggestions in comments of waxing chain with quicklink attached). Also, with KMC you can get a joining pliers and removal pliers. I've found brand new quicklinks can be tough to join to waxed chains (although admittedly ive been using the slow cooker method and pulling out at 55 - 60° so a lot more wax on the chain, so maybe not an issue with the Silca method).
Looks like you CAN be fooled LOL no, just kidding . . . BUT it will be easier if you install the waxed chain and UNWAXED Quick Link on your bike and THEN squeeze a little Super Secret Chain LUBE (it's wax in a liquid form) on to the Quick Link and make sure you let it cure properly. Waxing the Link BEFORE it's installed can lead to problems or difficulty installing . . .just saying :-)
@@davidbee8178 I already use the hot wax/ drip wax combo ;) just trying to inject a little humor into the comments, but I see it’s gone over some heads
As a final step after installing a quick link on a hot potted waxed chain I use a hair dryer to re-melt residual wax (Josh’s method larger cog to flex the chain) to further drive the liquified wax into the links. This also waxes the quick link. It takes about 5 minutes slowly rotating the chain and insures the best possible wax distribution throughout the internals of the chain links. I re-apply wax via the drip method periodically by repeating the above.
Great idea. I recently replaced my chain on an 900 mi bikepacking trip with a freshly waxed chain that I had sent ahead. I had some difficulty installing the quick link because of the wax accumulation. I wonder whether I could have used a BIC lighter to soften the wax when appluing the quick link.
@@williamfilmyer6652, I stopped waxing the quick link for ease of installation and the hair dryer trick will drive wax from attached links into the quick link. A lighter might heat the link too hot to handle however an unwaxed quick link installed and then a lighter heat might move some wax from adjacent links into the quick link. Caution as an open flame can ignite wax.
Great insights! I appreciate the great detail. There are several videos on “how to” apply the hot wax on your website that describe how to apply wax to the quick links. Can you update those to eliminate the direction on how to wax the quick links? I followed one and waxed my quick link, then later on found this video. Thank you!
Thank god, I have never waxed the quick links, for much of the same reasoning that is so well explained here. In fact I clean the quick link with a sharp blade before joining the newly waxed chain. I also have re-used Shimano 11 speed quicklinks at least 8 times before I just chickened out and got new ones from YBN. the Shimano was working fine btw, it's just that I am super-cautious.
I wax my Sram Quicklinks with the rest of the chain and have done so for years. I also re-use those quick links (and re-wax them) at least a dozen to 20 plus times during the life of the chain. I have only ever had one quicklink fail on me and I keep several spares in the toolbox for that reason.
great, I will stop waxing the QL. It was always a pain getting the wax off the surfaces. QL re-use times. You said if it does not click on, it does not feel right, then change it... that is my approach, except when I drop half a QL and lose it, then I also get a new QL out. Currently on an 11S chain with 13K Km, I am on the second QL (I lost one side), it is still clicking on, I average 310km per wax. I would rather use the Connex QL but it is seriously expensive if you buy it sans chain. tks for the information.
I have to say that ever since using a wax bath for a brand new 12 speed shimano chain with a quick link and I have not had any issues removing and reinstalling the quickling for at least 8000 kilometers and a rewax every 3-400 kilometers. I have to say it’s the best bike maintenance thing you can do
key is the tiny round-over on the tip of the quick link pins. A sharp edge will scrape the wax off, while the rounded pin-end entrains the wax between the bore and pin.
This is great information. Ultimately, chain manufacturers need to make fully reusable quick links, period. Wipperman has been doing this with the ConnexLink for at least 25 years and there's no excuse for other companies not to have them as well. (Unfortunately, it's my understanding that they don't work with SRAM's flat-top/T-Type chains.) It's now up to riders to tell SRAM, Shimano, and the others that this is a product that is absolutely necessary. If enough riders demand it, they will produce it. It's not just the extra cost for riders, but also the small but real environment impact it would make. It's the right thing for them to do.
I would advise against rejoining 11 and 12 speed chains before rewaxing since you are doubling the number of times the quick link is opened and closed per rewaxing.
this is driven by consumers ourselves, the manufacturers know people just pay for it no matter what, even when they know they're being totally ripped off, they know people only buy branded stuff and won't give no name cheap alternatives a chance, especially the chinese made ones.
Here is my input(this is not an advice but my experience, I don't take responsibility :) ). I have converted all my chains to wax. One of them has a kmc 11 speed chain and I have been reusing the "non-reusable" quick link it came with and after 25 or so reuses it is still in great shape and I can't unlock it with my hands. I still keep several resuable new ones at hand but I will keep on using a QL as long as I can not open it with my hands. I think the most important part is using a tool when unlocking it and when locking it back in making sure that the grove on one side and the plate on the other is aligned properly before pushing it back in. We are on the same page here. I actually do the exact opposite of what you suggest. When the wax is cooling down I dip the ql quickly to build up a lot of wax on it. It is true that this makes a lot of excess wax but you can simply rotate each side of the ql before trying to lock it in and clean up the excess. The worst case is you can still easily remove the excess by hand. After that before I lock it I make sure that the grove on one side and the plate on the other is properly aligned (when aligned they semi-lock) then I press on the pedal to lock it. You are right about excess wax making it a bit harder to align but you can always clean it up a bit with your fingers. There were two times I missed it and one side locked in while the other side was sitting on top. The link didn't bend, I opened it with teh tool and locked it back properly. Still I double check the link for these kinds of mistakes. I also check the link, jiggle it a bit to see if the connection is secure. Now I believe the excessive wax, when the two sides are aligned properly, is helping the quick link not to wear out while locking it back in hence prolonging the life of it. Again after around 25 cycles the non-reusable one came with the link still works great, impossible to open by hand. Since you have a microscope why don't you try it both ways and see the wear after locking and unlocking them several times(say 10-20 -30)? Clean QL vs QL with wax build-up? keep up the great products and videos, Best
So I’m not clear on Josh’s recommendation on dealing with the thick layer of wax on the end links of the chain I’ll be honest m, I’ve not read quite all 360 comments. He did quickly touch on it “get that wax off” I think. I’ve found you need to scrape the wax with a fingernail to get the QL to go through properly. Do you approve that Josh? Good idea above too about heating it I guess. Thanks. Love that wax.
My understanding was that the patent on reusable master links stops other manufacturers from claiming theirs are reusable, even if they would be completely fine to.
I have reused my shimano 12 speed quick link at least 30 times and would think it's good for 20 more times, still feels fine. Same as my old 11 speed shimano ones, I went about a year on one link which I would disconnect weekly.
haha interesting, thanks for the info! Relieved to discover KMC X8s are not directional, as never paid attention to that. Likewise the YBN 7-8 doesn't appear to be directional. Have used a KMC link ?10 times before it came undone going over a bump! It was sloppy as beforehand. I have been using the same link on multiple chains several times, and will stop doing so eventually (e.g. when changing all chains 000s of kms from now)
The first time I waxed my chain, I didn't install the quick link properly. One of the quick link pins sheared off on an uphill about 20 minutes into my ride. Now I'm more careful when installing the quick links. Pressing out the wax between the plates is key to getting enough of the pin exposed to attach to the other link.
I wax my chains (dura ace 12sp, shimano quicklink) with the quicklink installed, fully connected chain. Well I have to assemble it 2 times, but no problems so far regarding the stability of the q.l. or the assembly
By rejoining 11 and 12 speed chains before rewaxing you are doubling the number of times the quick link is opened and closed per rewaxing and thus wearing the quick links out twice as fast.
I thought about going submersive wax, but the SRAM T-type links are $5 each and it says one use only! I figured they could go more but the "one use" statement is CYA. Ended up deciding to go drip wax for now, but maybe submersive next time.
Thank you so much for this! I keep hearing so much from both sides. You’ve definitely helped this make more sense to me. By the way, where did the name Silca come from? I’ve researched the history of the company but can’t find any info on the history of the name.
So I’m not clear on Josh’s recommendation I’d dealing with the thick layer of wax on the end links of the chain I’ll be honest I’ve not read all 360 comments. He did quickly touch on it “get that wax off” I think. I’ve found. You need to scrape the wax with a fingernail to get the QL to go through properly. Do you approve that Josh? Thanks. Love that wax.
I have had the quicklink rust when I have not waxed it. I usually just pop it down the hot wax with the chain and then scrape off some of the wax that would make it hard to connect
I waxed the chains assembled with the quicklink, this way it is possible to wax the entire chain and avoid the problem with installing the quicklink and it remains lubricated and with extra protection against oxidation from the environment.
By rejoining 11 and 12 speed chains before rewaxing you are doubling the number of times the quick link is opened and closed per rewaxing and thus wearing the quick link out twice as fast.
Just do the hot wax with the QL installed no concern over wax coverage or needing to push out the wax plug, removed it to install on the bike .. I re-wax twice a month at around 600-800km and reuse my QL for around 6months before replacing and even at 6 months I would say they are still good.
Yeah seems like a great idea, but you’re opening and breaking that link an extra time each clean / wax cycle. Each link only has a limited number of rejoins in its life before it clicks too east.
@@CMneilB I think the wear on the quick link is more a function of its miles and maintenance than the number of times it's reconnected. I use KMC and I don't this act of maintenance causes any wear on it. Others that might have a more impactful connection may be different. Regardless, I think inspection is the key to knowing when to replace a quick link. I inspect the catching lip on my quick link every time I wax.
The manufacturers say don't reuse for liability reasons. However, i had to remove my freshly, but improperly, installed chain. No issues with the QL popping. Would i reuse a six month old QL? Only for emergencies, and only until i could get a new chain.
I've been using Connex links since starting waxing in 2019. A great design that I have 100% faith in. Have used on both Connex-Wipperman and Shimano chains with zero problems. Your local salesman sounds like a keeper.
Hi, I remember Josh talking about the tungsten disulfite working itself into the surface of the metal with time and with the heat (sometime, long ago in the podcast). With that making the surface a bit harder and less friction. So wouldnt it be advantageous to wax it? I allways waxed mine but i made shure that they sit right by twisting them in in the chain before engaging them.
The tungsten works its way into the metal under pressure.. the heat just helps the wax penetrate into the chain, but since all touching metal surfaces have wax between them with this method, you still get the layering up of the WS2 particles in the metal on the quicklink.
@@SILCAVelothis is a slightly misleading statement, there is no chemical bonding between the Tungsten and the chain metals or you would be creating a new alloy. To be accurate; having a smaller particle size, Tungsten can fill the surface imperfections where larger particle lubricants can’t. You will need more magnification on the microscope to see that 😁 Just replacing a KMC chain, been waxed all through wet and very muddy British winter, squeezed 3k km out of it which for the conditions I think is a win. KMC link on and off over 20 times, full re-wax 6 times. Even in wet, wax is better than the black oil sludge of wet lubes.
Judging by the anecdotal evidence, it's absolutely fine to reuse "single use" quick links many times. I don't think quick link wear is linear ie the amount of metal worn away each time it is opened and closed is not the same. After the first few opening and closing cycles, the amount of metal worn away each cycle reduces considerably as there is less pressure between the points of contact (the grove in the pins and the retaining "points" in the slot in the side plates).
The Shimano 11s links have a little dent pointing to the hole. I think this might be made to deform during mounting. Can this be the cause for the single-use recommendation?
Quick links can be reused 20-30 times. I’ve never had one come apart. Dura ace and Record chains have hollow pins whereas a quick link pins are SOLID!! I always keep a well used link in my bag so that if I need one I can snap it shut without tools ( get me home). When new you do require pliers, well worn they are more forgiving.
I will continue to wax my quick links. I do it so there is wax on that step and groove. That way there is less friction when connecting the two pieces together, meaning more times you can re-use the quick links. I scrape the wax off the other areas of the quick link.
I attach my quick link to the chain with a paper clip when I'm hot waxing the chain - first to degrease and then to hot wax. Never had a problem installing the quick link and it gets a nice even coating of wax. I do warm the chain slightly with a hair dryer before installing on my bike.
I've started putting the quick link in the chain and waxing the whole thing. Then it is waxed exactly like every other link. You don't push too much out when assembling it.
This is a good video and it shows that you listen. Use of the microscope is a smart move as people react to being shown visually better than just being told. The Connex links have to be fitted with the slots making a frown shape on the bottom chain span. You get a clicking sound if you fit them the other way up as shown in th-cam.com/video/yuqeogcwaIs/w-d-xo.html .
> Josh covers Shimano, YBN, Connex, and SRAM chains, offering his suggestions and best practices for each. I couldn't find any mention of SRAM chains and best practices for them. (I know that YBN 12-speed quick-links don't work with SRAM flat-top chains, for example) But are SRAM's quick-links any different to Shimano from a reuse perspective?
Just rewaxed couple weeks ago and decided against reusing a shimano QL I had in favor of another I had. Not sure of the maker but it didn't have the arrow just the 11s on it. In my infinte wisdom 🤭, i put it on where it's legible in moving with drive train. Of course looking at this video (not sure why I didn't do this before throwing out the shimano one) I noticed the Shimano with arrow the QL mating hole is on left with drive train motion. On this new one I have while you can read characters the actual QL hole is on the right 🤔 Now I'm thinkning of using one of it's lives to reseat the other way. Granted everythign is shifting just great right now.
To stop the rollers falling out use a worn quick link to keep your chain together when waxing. Being a worn quick link you still get plenty of wax into the chain.
Easy to "feel" and "hear" when a quick link has done its job. 5 times+ before changing is normal for me. Shimano quick links are not cheap - but if you several times before changing its not an issue imho. I do think that sloppy re-mounting is by far the primary cause of chain "breaks". Its very easy to visually confirm its sitting correct - just do it.
Quite warm in the UK at the moment, upon applying the super secret I do find more ends up on the floor . It was like trying to apply water . It’s quite wasteful considering the cost 😮
I just use the hot wax, easy if you rotate 3 chains. Put used chain in melter switch on and leave to cook, fit pre-waxed chain, job done. Hang cooked chain to dry and switch melter off when I next go in the garage.
Me too. Exactly the same. I think the tip is to use it over the cassette not in the straight portions if the chain. And it’s best to let the SS drip lube set 24 hours (12 hr minimum) before riding.
I always wax the chain with the quick link installed. Not because it's required for lubrication but because it makes re-installation much easier. Also, in that case the wax in there won't be a double-thick layer, but rather you will have a similar amount as between the other links of the chain *of course this requires closing and opening the quick link before installing the chain which manufacturers don't recommend. I still re-use the quick links multiple times though, never had any problem, but that's just anecdotal evidence I guess.*
Yes I wax my quick links. It prolongs the life of the step snap. All I do is just put a binder clip on the quick link to hold it snug and then heat it up with a lighter. In melts in place and then you just snap it in. The only downside is the possibility of condensation contamination. Moisture may become immersed and not evaporate.
If you put the Q link on the stripped chain first and then put the whole loop in the hot wax, the link snaps together without added pressure or special attention.
In the past you would use a candle mixed with PTFE + handheld ceramic heater. You heat the chain up with the heater. Touch your wax to the link then move on. This can still be done today and is still the fastest way to apply wax lube.
Yes they would, but only with 6,7, and 8 speed chains. I used to break my chain every 300 miles to clean it PROPERLY before I started waxing. Trying to clean a chain fully while it is still on the bike is a waste of time.
Pragmatic terms, you use a 105 link chain. Between fresh waxed and used chain maybe 20-30w absolute max? Watt per link is 30/105 means around 0.28w. Does that really matter?
I recently started immersion waxing on two of my bikes but I only get 50-70 miles until the chain sounds really dry again. This doesn’t seem right, but the only thing I can think is that the wax was too hot when I immersed it? (I now have a waxing station - but haven’t used it yet) I started with new chains, degreased them and then degreased them AGAIN with the Silca degreaser before waxing.
May not have left the chain in there long enough to heat up? zerofrictioncycling.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2020/09/waxing-how-to-zen-master-guide-v4.pdf
Have you tried having the chain connected with quick link when waxing then disconnect it to put it on the bike or as I did drop some Silca secret lube on it when I put chain on bike and connected quick link. I tried waxing it but could not connect it so took of the wax and just dropped on secret wax it may have had wax in the pin holes from waxing but this made sure
There is no real performance benefit, but it does make things more quiet. The easiest way is to just put some SuperSecret drip wax on the chain and then cycle through all the gears, this will leave a thin film of wax on the cassette and rings.
My trick for installing the quicklink after waxing is hit the quicklink when already in the chain with a lighter to remelt the wax. Then you can easily squeeze it together.
good one
@@collinsnyder8682, just don’t wax the quick link. Makes install easier. Heat the link after installation and wax on adjacent links should melt into the quick link.
All really good info and food for thought. All our chains on 11 bikes plus spare chains are hot waxed in an old slow cooker. We get many thousands more miles from each chain than we did with "sticky" lube. Our local lanes in Cumbria, NW England are muddy, gritty, wet, and pot holed, even in a good summer. We re-use Quick Links until they go "soft", sometimes seven or eight times.
The comments about a good chain tool prompted memories of splitting the chain on my first "real" bike: a 1960's Raleigh Flyer. I used a blunt nail, a ½ inch nut, and a hammer, all found in my Dad's garage. Summer rides of 60 miles after school on a weekday summer evening, a couple of hundred miles on good weekends. Why don't we have time for these now?
1000% agree on not waxing the quick links, based on experience. The wax was giving me a much harder time in installing the quick links. I never tried to force it, as this obviously could compromise safety. So, I decided to install new quick links instead and that went smoothly. That made me realize it must have been the wax on the quick links causing issues with installation.
I reuse a SRAM quick link 20+ times, on multiple chains. No issues so far. Yes, it clicks easier but it still holds. But then I put a new quick link on my race chain before every important race.
Just don't do a bad shift when the quick link is on the cassette. You will blast the quick link open and crash, those things are mad loose when you open them multiple times.
@@___Bebo___😂
@@veganpotterthevegan You're probably using Di2 and know how to shift. Imagine this guy bearing down on the pedals at 500 watts of body weight while hitting his mech shifter button, it's not safe.
My FTP is 861, so I have to change it every time to be safe! 😂😂
Have you put 1200 or more watts through a chain with around 10 times reused quick link? Does it work too?
Still have a Rivoli chain tool kicking around the shop somewhere.
As is my 1985 Silca floor pump. Poor thing needs some TLC!
The skidding tires were FUNNY! Thanks for the laugh.
I have one of those in my tool box too. Never had a Silca floor pump, but all my presta floor pumps get a Silca 24.0 head.
Pre quick link technology I once made a trail side repair of a broken chain after it broke during a long ride. To this day I remember fondly getting the chain tool to work and successfully getting the fiddly rivet in (with no kinks). I ride with a quick link in my kit now.
First time waxing I ended up with too much wax on the QL and twisted the chain enough to have to buy a new one. Bought lessons.
So, I am fortunate to have the full Silca setup to hot wax. Quick-link tip… put it through chain ends and get wax out or the link hole. Remove it, clean it and then put back in and assemble. Have found it impossible to get quick link to “click” without cleaning wax off. Hot wax has shifted the paradigm completely! Thanks for sharing @josh
I run my thumbnail around the groove of the quick link after pushing it through.
Why fortunate, you just made a choice to buy it. Weird thing to say.
@@kamilhorvat8290 so the wax heater is about €120. Wax just €48. If you want strip chip (for new chains only) €30 and chain cleaning fluid (for used oil lubed chains) about €45. Benefit of wax machine is temperature control. All of the above are to be used on multiple chains
@@johnlesoudeur3653because I am happy with it. Works well and waxed chain has proven an improvement that I did not have before
@@lolbubs11111yes, do that when I remove it too
Whipperman Connex links for the win, every single time
Agree - is there a recommended length of time before you need to replace them?
When the chain is worn.
Do they work with SRAM flattop chains though?
Are 12spd available yet?
Yes.
It’s so much easier to not wax the quick link, I’m glad you back that up haha.
Nicely done! The magnification segments are very good. Keep on!
When I built up my current bike many years ago and realized that I'd need a special Campy chain tool that cost over $100 plus a new and costly pin and a very gentle touch every time I broke or reassembled my chain, I quickly decided to get a quick link instead and haven't looked back. And this was way before I started waxing. I started out with the old Superlink, then switched to KMC links, and now am using a mix of KMC, Connex and YBN links depending on the chain. I did break a KMC link so you do have to keep an eye on them and not use them more than 3-5 times.
And I actually do wax my quick links, and just make sure that they snap shut properly, which pushes out the soft wax. But it does complicate things so be careful.
My thumbs up is for your explanation and experience at 9:22 that quick links CAN be reused until you FEEL them go bad. That has been my experience as well and it was well explained and why most of use watched this :). Super happy with Silca wax and the Super Secret lube for top-ups. Thanks!
Great info on quicklinks... I hope silca will make their own soon, and TPU tubes too!
KMC makes reusable quick links and they are identified as such right on the packaging. Having said that, the Connex Quick Links, IMO, are the state of the art as they require no tools to disassemble or reassemble.
But not all chains work with them. Especially Shimano.
@@meibing4912 Used Connex links on both Ultegra and DA chains, zero problems. Also the e-bike chain from Shimano, whatever that was.
You can make a kink, skip a tooth on your chain ring in any standard quick link and tap it from the top lightly to open it. You don't need tools for any quick link.
I haven’t had much joy with KMC 9spd links. They’re “loose” after 1 or 2 connects. Can’t get Wipperman anymore. Trying SRAM, now.
@@warrenyoung173I use them with no problem. It doesn't matter if they are loose. So far.....
I've been using Shimano 11sp quick links for the life of the chain. That's about 10k miles using homemade hot wax with ptfe. They are still tight and require the pliers to the end. I wax the link, but he's right you need to be careful. ONCE I wasn't careful and thought I had linked it, but after about 7 miles of an odd clicking the link broke. I figured I didn't get one end in the slot and the other pin broke with all the force on it only. I now double verify every time I reconnect and never had issues. I'll use a new link with a new chain.
I had the same problem happen to me. I also double check every time
I rewaxed my chain (Shimano CN-HG901 11-Speed) yesterday, 125 C, then 75 C, etc. I let it cool. Then I made 5 passes over the chain. 1) Flex each joint 2-4 times. 2) Scrape the blobs off one side with my thumb nail. 3) Scrape the blobs off the other side. 4) poke a large paper clip through the hollow pin, pushing out a small wax plug. 5) poke a "larger" rod through the hollow pin, pushing out more wax. That left me with a lighter, flexible fresh waxed chain, with much less surface wax.
I dreaded connecting the ends with a new Quick-Link. When I put the new (stripped & waxed) chain on in mid May I had to call a bike mechanic friend for suggestions about how to get the Quick-Link to engage. This time, with the ends of the chain cleared of excess surface wax, I got the Quick-Link to engage by pulling the handles of the MLP 1.2 apart. Shocker.
Your video makes me think last time the residual surface wax didn't allow the pin notch and tiny shelf to align. I have an event in two weeks and thought a complete re-wax was in order. I touched up the chain a few weeks back with Silca Secret Chain Wax Coating. The chain had 731 mi on it since May 11th. That's about 250 mi/mo of butter smooth noise free riding. Oh, and I made 5 passes over the chain without gloves, hazmat suit, etc. My CC-2 reports .25 for the chain. Waxing agrees with me. Your products and videos are terrific.
Crap I've been waxing the quick links ever since is started deep immersion waxing! I'll stop that right away from now on although I never had a problem.......... so far! Good educational video about quick links!
I have found if you use a reversible quick link tool that lets you also reconnect the link, if you do that in a slow controlled manner you get more uses out of the quick link than the spin link to the top and bang on the crank method.
Correct, always use the tool - you will hear an audible click as it snaps in. Crank method is sloppy
Great video, I just started waxing my chains this year and made the mistake of waxing my quick links. To say it was difficult to connect would be a understatement. I feel a lot better about not waxing quick links now.
Great info as always, thanks Silca. Jumped on the waxing bandwagon about 8 months ago and never going back, it's simply the best solution for the types of rides I do and my climate. Love it!!
I do wax my chains and also have waxed the quick link. It's on the bike now and I'm going to leave it alone until the next waxing where
I'll just wax the chain itself. However, now you got me thinking about the directional issue. I had no idea that there's a direction to some
chains AND the quick links. I will now inspect closely to see if I installed them correctly. Thanks much.
Check you've got your tyres on the right way too as most are directional.
First time waxer, Sram 12 speed chain. Removed quick link, cleaned chain, hot waxed. Put on new quick link. Got weird skipping at quick link. Tried everything, eventually took the bike to a pro. I knew the quick link looked off but I’ve never removed my own chain before. Anyway, in the removal process, the rollers had come out. I was told 12 speed chains aren’t as tight as 10 or 11 speeds so be mindful. Not sure if the rollers are on my garage floor or in the wax. Felt kinda dumb but a heads up for the 12 speed folks.
I've had rollers fall out too, I use an old worn quick link to keep the chain together when waxing. Being a worn quick link you still get plenty of wax in the chain.
I just used a Shimano 11 speed link for 12 Hot Wax’s and it clearly still worked BUT was noticeably a bit lose SO i put in my pack for a rainy day and used a new one
A new quick link every 3000 miles in my budget 🎉
Connex inks mate.
Glad you made this Josh. Shimano QuickLinks… supposedly directional but have an arrow on both parts, which means at least one part HAS to go the wrong way! Has anyone else noticed this?
YES! I came into the comments to post this, and you can even tell from the microscope pics in the video that this is the case.
The directionality of the Shimano quicklink should be matched to the side facing outward, same as the chain directionality itself, the text should be facing outward when viewed from the drive side. I agree that the quicklink is confusing as it ends up pointing both directions!!
The worst part is if you're using a Connex link it's the opposite (the bigger end leads on the outside). All the other ones it's as shown for Shimano in the video. Wipperman explains it so that the normal end is getting picked up first on the larger cog on the cassette, I'd live to know the rationale for the others (Shimano, Sram, KMC).
I must admit that I've discovered ot wrong when removing chains for rewaxing multiple times and had never noticed while riding. I do wax the quick links, mostly just to keep them together with their chains when I'm cleaning/waxing multiple chains at once, but I scrape the excess off (leaving a thin coating) to avoid the installation problem.
I have been waxing for at least a decade. I wax multiple chains at a time with the quick link on so it is waxed and easier to connect. I change chains weekly very often so my links get a lot of action. I've never had an issue.
Been using KMC reusable quicklinks for years now and work great. One important thing ive learned is to make sure there's no wax/debris in the groove of the quicklinks as they wont connect properly...can happen if you use them to clear the hole of wax in the chain when joining (but im now going to try the other suggestions in comments of waxing chain with quicklink attached).
Also, with KMC you can get a joining pliers and removal pliers. I've found brand new quicklinks can be tough to join to waxed chains (although admittedly ive been using the slow cooker method and pulling out at 55 - 60° so a lot more wax on the chain, so maybe not an issue with the Silca method).
You can’t fool me. I’m double-waxing my quicklinks from here on out
Looks like you CAN be fooled LOL no, just kidding . . . BUT it will be easier if you install the waxed chain and UNWAXED Quick Link on your bike and THEN squeeze a little Super Secret Chain LUBE (it's wax in a liquid form) on to the Quick Link and make sure you let it cure properly. Waxing the Link BEFORE it's installed can lead to problems or difficulty installing . . .just saying :-)
@@davidbee8178 I already use the hot wax/ drip wax combo ;) just trying to inject a little humor into the comments, but I see it’s gone over some heads
As a final step after installing a quick link on a hot potted waxed chain I use a hair dryer to re-melt residual wax (Josh’s method larger cog to flex the chain) to further drive the liquified wax into the links. This also waxes the quick link. It takes about 5 minutes slowly rotating the chain and insures the best possible wax distribution throughout the internals of the chain links.
I re-apply wax via the drip method periodically by repeating the above.
Great idea. I recently replaced my chain on an 900 mi bikepacking trip with a freshly waxed chain that I had sent ahead. I had some difficulty installing the quick link because of the wax accumulation. I wonder whether I could have used a BIC lighter to soften the wax when appluing the quick link.
@@williamfilmyer6652, I stopped waxing the quick link for ease of installation and the hair dryer trick will drive wax from attached links into the quick link. A lighter might heat the link too hot to handle however an unwaxed quick link installed and then a lighter heat might move some wax from adjacent links into the quick link. Caution as an open flame can ignite wax.
Great insights! I appreciate the great detail. There are several videos on “how to” apply the hot wax on your website that describe how to apply wax to the quick links. Can you update those to eliminate the direction on how to wax the quick links? I followed one and waxed my quick link, then later on found this video. Thank you!
Thank god, I have never waxed the quick links, for much of the same reasoning that is so well explained here. In fact I clean the quick link with a sharp blade before joining the newly waxed chain. I also have re-used Shimano 11 speed quicklinks at least 8 times before I just chickened out and got new ones from YBN. the Shimano was working fine btw, it's just that I am super-cautious.
I wax my Sram Quicklinks with the rest of the chain and have done so for years. I also re-use those quick links (and re-wax them) at least a dozen to 20 plus times during the life of the chain. I have only ever had one quicklink fail on me and I keep several spares in the toolbox for that reason.
great, I will stop waxing the QL. It was always a pain getting the wax off the surfaces.
QL re-use times. You said if it does not click on, it does not feel right, then change it... that is my approach, except when I drop half a QL and lose it, then I also get a new QL out. Currently on an 11S chain with 13K Km, I am on the second QL (I lost one side), it is still clicking on, I average 310km per wax. I would rather use the Connex QL but it is seriously expensive if you buy it sans chain.
tks for the information.
Wippermann Connex Link ftw. Hands down the best chain link on the market.
No for real. Please use them.
Still use the tool on motorcycles and my older bikes. It can be fiddly, but thats anything you need practice for.
I have to say that ever since using a wax bath for a brand new 12 speed shimano chain with a quick link and I have not had any issues removing and reinstalling the quickling for at least 8000 kilometers and a rewax every 3-400 kilometers. I have to say it’s the best bike maintenance thing you can do
key is the tiny round-over on the tip of the quick link pins. A sharp edge will scrape the wax off, while the rounded pin-end entrains the wax between the bore and pin.
This is great information. Ultimately, chain manufacturers need to make fully reusable quick links, period. Wipperman has been doing this with the ConnexLink for at least 25 years and there's no excuse for other companies not to have them as well. (Unfortunately, it's my understanding that they don't work with SRAM's flat-top/T-Type chains.) It's now up to riders to tell SRAM, Shimano, and the others that this is a product that is absolutely necessary. If enough riders demand it, they will produce it. It's not just the extra cost for riders, but also the small but real environment impact it would make. It's the right thing for them to do.
Just reuse the excellent ones that you can buy - at your own risk - seems to work well for everyone else.
@@meibing4912 Not good enough.
I always rejoin chain and wax it with quick-link on, no problem with the 7 and 9 speed chains I use.
I would advise against rejoining 11 and 12 speed chains before rewaxing since you are doubling the number of times the quick link is opened and closed per rewaxing.
$12-$15 for a Quick Link is insane. If it was $15 for a 10-pack, I wouldnt reuse
Insanity is an overused term, but in this case it fits perfectly.
this is driven by consumers ourselves, the manufacturers know people just pay for it no matter what, even when they know they're being totally ripped off, they know people only buy branded stuff and won't give no name cheap alternatives a chance, especially the chinese made ones.
@@ashchbkv6965 valid comments, but I still try hard not to buy Made in China whenever I can
I can get a PC-1130 11speed sram chain for 15usd 😂
Which comes with a chain link
Here is my input(this is not an advice but my experience, I don't take responsibility :) ). I have converted all my chains to wax. One of them has a kmc 11 speed chain and I have been reusing the "non-reusable" quick link it came with and after 25 or so reuses it is still in great shape and I can't unlock it with my hands. I still keep several resuable new ones at hand but I will keep on using a QL as long as I can not open it with my hands. I think the most important part is using a tool when unlocking it and when locking it back in making sure that the grove on one side and the plate on the other is aligned properly before pushing it back in. We are on the same page here.
I actually do the exact opposite of what you suggest. When the wax is cooling down I dip the ql quickly to build up a lot of wax on it. It is true that this makes a lot of excess wax but you can simply rotate each side of the ql before trying to lock it in and clean up the excess. The worst case is you can still easily remove the excess by hand. After that before I lock it I make sure that the grove on one side and the plate on the other is properly aligned (when aligned they semi-lock) then I press on the pedal to lock it.
You are right about excess wax making it a bit harder to align but you can always clean it up a bit with your fingers. There were two times I missed it and one side locked in while the other side was sitting on top. The link didn't bend, I opened it with teh tool and locked it back properly. Still I double check the link for these kinds of mistakes. I also check the link, jiggle it a bit to see if the connection is secure.
Now I believe the excessive wax, when the two sides are aligned properly, is helping the quick link not to wear out while locking it back in hence prolonging the life of it. Again after around 25 cycles the non-reusable one came with the link still works great, impossible to open by hand.
Since you have a microscope why don't you try it both ways and see the wear after locking and unlocking them several times(say 10-20 -30)? Clean QL vs QL with wax build-up?
keep up the great products and videos,
Best
Thanks Josh 👍
What about the quick link on quick link contact surfaces?
Thanks.
So I’m not clear on Josh’s recommendation on dealing with the thick layer of wax on the end links of the chain I’ll be honest m, I’ve not read quite all 360 comments.
He did quickly touch on it “get that wax off” I think. I’ve found you need to scrape the wax with a fingernail to get the QL to go through properly.
Do you approve that Josh?
Good idea above too about heating it I guess.
Thanks. Love that wax.
Adam Kerin's approach is the wisest thus far (Zero Friction Cycling Australia) .
My understanding was that the patent on reusable master links stops other manufacturers from claiming theirs are reusable, even if they would be completely fine to.
Really appreciate these guys. Provide great products and so helpful knowledge on using them.
I have reused my shimano 12 speed quick link at least 30 times and would think it's good for 20 more times, still feels fine.
Same as my old 11 speed shimano ones, I went about a year on one link which I would disconnect weekly.
haha interesting, thanks for the info! Relieved to discover KMC X8s are not directional, as never paid attention to that. Likewise the YBN 7-8 doesn't appear to be directional. Have used a KMC link ?10 times before it came undone going over a bump! It was sloppy as beforehand. I have been using the same link on multiple chains several times, and will stop doing so eventually (e.g. when changing all chains 000s of kms from now)
The first time I waxed my chain, I didn't install the quick link properly. One of the quick link pins sheared off on an uphill about 20 minutes into my ride. Now I'm more careful when installing the quick links. Pressing out the wax between the plates is key to getting enough of the pin exposed to attach to the other link.
I wax my chains (dura ace 12sp, shimano quicklink) with the quicklink installed, fully connected chain. Well I have to assemble it 2 times, but no problems so far regarding the stability of the q.l. or the assembly
I never had any issue installing a wax chain link. 😅
Great, quick and succinct video. Quick question, what's the best place to send questions for AJA? I'm three and ought on the text format.
I’ve always waxed my quick links attached to the chain, never had a problem linking them together…
By rejoining 11 and 12 speed chains before rewaxing you are doubling the number of times the quick link is opened and closed per rewaxing and thus wearing the quick links out twice as fast.
Straight to the point, always bringing us the science we want to hear so I can share it in the local bike store here with us!
I thought about going submersive wax, but the SRAM T-type links are $5 each and it says one use only! I figured they could go more but the "one use" statement is CYA. Ended up deciding to go drip wax for now, but maybe submersive next time.
Thank you so much for this! I keep hearing so much from both sides. You’ve definitely helped this make more sense to me. By the way, where did the name Silca come from? I’ve researched the history of the company but can’t find any info on the history of the name.
So I’m not clear on Josh’s recommendation I’d dealing with the thick layer of wax on the end links of the chain I’ll be honest I’ve not read all 360 comments.
He did quickly touch on it “get that wax off” I think. I’ve found. You need to scrape the wax with a fingernail to get the QL to go through properly.
Do you approve that Josh?
Thanks. Love that wax.
"A little crack baggie" makes me chuckle every time.
I have had the quicklink rust when I have not waxed it. I usually just pop it down the hot wax with the chain and then scrape off some of the wax that would make it hard to connect
I've heard "rumors" of a 12spd Connex quick link, but have never found it for sale. If you can get that available, DO IT!
I appreciate the reminder that quick-links can be a safety risk!
I waxed the chains assembled with the quicklink, this way it is possible to wax the entire chain and avoid the problem with installing the quicklink and it remains lubricated and with extra protection against oxidation from the environment.
By rejoining 11 and 12 speed chains before rewaxing you are doubling the number of times the quick link is opened and closed per rewaxing and thus wearing the quick link out twice as fast.
Short and to the point, thank you
I use my Quick Links twice because I like to support my local bike shop, a little, haha!
Just do the hot wax with the QL installed no concern over wax coverage or needing to push out the wax plug, removed it to install on the bike .. I re-wax twice a month at around 600-800km and reuse my QL for around 6months before replacing and even at 6 months I would say they are still good.
Yeah seems like a great idea, but you’re opening and breaking that link an extra time each clean / wax cycle. Each link only has a limited number of rejoins in its life before it clicks too east.
@@CMneilB I think the wear on the quick link is more a function of its miles and maintenance than the number of times it's reconnected. I use KMC and I don't this act of maintenance causes any wear on it. Others that might have a more impactful connection may be different. Regardless, I think inspection is the key to knowing when to replace a quick link. I inspect the catching lip on my quick link every time I wax.
The manufacturers say don't reuse for liability reasons. However, i had to remove my freshly, but improperly, installed chain. No issues with the QL popping. Would i reuse a six month old QL? Only for emergencies, and only until i could get a new chain.
What about using a “Connex” tool-less link? I was sold one by my local salesman when i asked about reusable links.
O you got there. Thanks.
I've been using Connex links since starting waxing in 2019. A great design that I have 100% faith in. Have used on both Connex-Wipperman and Shimano chains with zero problems. Your local salesman sounds like a keeper.
Great video with useful info. Thank you!
Hi, I remember Josh talking about the tungsten disulfite working itself into the surface of the metal with time and with the heat (sometime, long ago in the podcast). With that making the surface a bit harder and less friction. So wouldnt it be advantageous to wax it?
I allways waxed mine but i made shure that they sit right by twisting them in in the chain before engaging them.
The tungsten works its way into the metal under pressure.. the heat just helps the wax penetrate into the chain, but since all touching metal surfaces have wax between them with this method, you still get the layering up of the WS2 particles in the metal on the quicklink.
@@SILCAVelothis is a slightly misleading statement, there is no chemical bonding between the Tungsten and the chain metals or you would be creating a new alloy. To be accurate; having a smaller particle size, Tungsten can fill the surface imperfections where larger particle lubricants can’t. You will need more magnification on the microscope to see that 😁
Just replacing a KMC chain, been waxed all through wet and very muddy British winter, squeezed 3k km out of it which for the conditions I think is a win. KMC link on and off over 20 times, full re-wax 6 times. Even in wet, wax is better than the black oil sludge of wet lubes.
I leave the quick link on my chain when I wax it. BAM!
Judging by the anecdotal evidence, it's absolutely fine to reuse "single use" quick links many times. I don't think quick link wear is linear ie the amount of metal worn away each time it is opened and closed is not the same. After the first few opening and closing cycles, the amount of metal worn away each cycle reduces considerably as there is less pressure between the points of contact (the grove in the pins and the retaining "points" in the slot in the side plates).
I just leave the quick link on the chain when I hot wax the chain. Haven’t had any problems yet.
The Shimano 11s links have a little dent pointing to the hole. I think this might be made to deform during mounting. Can this be the cause for the single-use recommendation?
Quick links can be reused 20-30 times. I’ve never had one come apart. Dura ace and Record chains have hollow pins whereas a quick link pins are SOLID!! I always keep a well used link in my bag so that if I need one I can snap it shut without tools ( get me home). When new you do require pliers, well worn they are more forgiving.
I’ve used a reusable quick link for well over 12 months.
i use them indefinitely
@@ozgurinsan that was until mine broke.
Agreed
100%
I will continue to wax my quick links. I do it so there is wax on that step and groove. That way there is less friction when connecting the two pieces together, meaning more times you can re-use the quick links. I scrape the wax off the other areas of the quick link.
I attach my quick link to the chain with a paper clip when I'm hot waxing the chain - first to degrease and then to hot wax. Never had a problem installing the quick link and it gets a nice even coating of wax. I do warm the chain slightly with a hair dryer before installing on my bike.
I tired not waxing the quick link as was recommended by other sources and of course the quick link was rusty on the link after the first ride.
@@i.am.will.prentice I use a hair dryer to heat the chain up a bit to make it flexible enough to get off my DIY wire coat hanger.
I've started putting the quick link in the chain and waxing the whole thing. Then it is waxed exactly like every other link. You don't push too much out when assembling it.
This is a good video and it shows that you listen. Use of the microscope is a smart move as people react to being shown visually better than just being told. The Connex links have to be fitted with the slots making a frown shape on the bottom chain span. You get a clicking sound if you fit them the other way up as shown in th-cam.com/video/yuqeogcwaIs/w-d-xo.html .
> Josh covers Shimano, YBN, Connex, and SRAM chains, offering his suggestions and best practices for each.
I couldn't find any mention of SRAM chains and best practices for them. (I know that YBN 12-speed quick-links don't work with SRAM flat-top chains, for example) But are SRAM's quick-links any different to Shimano from a reuse perspective?
My 11sp link from Decathlon has no direction arrow. Blank sides. Never had any problem with them (Shimano compatible).
I've been using KMC with the same results
Just rewaxed couple weeks ago and decided against reusing a shimano QL I had in favor of another I had. Not sure of the maker but it didn't have the arrow just the 11s on it. In my infinte wisdom 🤭, i put it on where it's legible in moving with drive train.
Of course looking at this video (not sure why I didn't do this before throwing out the shimano one) I noticed the Shimano with arrow the QL mating hole is on left with drive train motion. On this new one I have while you can read characters the actual QL hole is on the right 🤔
Now I'm thinkning of using one of it's lives to reseat the other way. Granted everythign is shifting just great right now.
To stop the rollers falling out use a worn quick link to keep your chain together when waxing. Being a worn quick link you still get plenty of wax into the chain.
I wax the quick link with each end in the chain so the coating is the same as all other links.
Josh, what make/model is that microscope? I really liked seeing the picture from it.
amzn.to/3XGiPN1
I have reused sram quick links many many times. I do carry an extra link just in case.
at how many kms should I change them
@@deDANIEL11609 I don’t know 😂
Phil Anderson leading the bunch - nice pic!
thanks for the advice on the quick link being re-usable.
YBN quick link - is it directional? I can’t find any info, so just pretending it’s a Shimano WRT directionality. Any wisdom appreciated!! 😊
KMC makes reusable links. I have reused Shimano quicklinks many times. Never had a issue.
Easy to "feel" and "hear" when a quick link has done its job. 5 times+ before changing is normal for me. Shimano quick links are not cheap - but if you several times before changing its not an issue imho. I do think that sloppy re-mounting is by far the primary cause of chain "breaks". Its very easy to visually confirm its sitting correct - just do it.
Please make a video on your bike collection and your employee’s bikes.
Or at least give a quick "bio" of each bike in the stand behind him and give us a full video sweep of the goodness!
Quite warm in the UK at the moment, upon applying the super secret I do find more ends up on the floor . It was like trying to apply
water .
It’s quite wasteful considering the cost 😮
I just use the hot wax, easy if you rotate 3 chains. Put used chain in melter switch on and leave to cook, fit pre-waxed chain, job done. Hang cooked chain to dry and switch melter off when I next go in the garage.
@@draugmithrin I might have to invest. I’m sure it would be more cost
effective 😂
Me too. Exactly the same. I think the tip is to use it over the cassette not in the straight portions if the chain. And it’s best to let the SS drip lube set 24 hours (12 hr minimum) before riding.
I always wax the chain with the quick link installed. Not because it's required for lubrication but because it makes re-installation much easier. Also, in that case the wax in there won't be a double-thick layer, but rather you will have a similar amount as between the other links of the chain
*of course this requires closing and opening the quick link before installing the chain which manufacturers don't recommend. I still re-use the quick links multiple times though, never had any problem, but that's just anecdotal evidence I guess.*
9:00 the most important question for me
Yes I wax my quick links. It prolongs the life of the step snap. All I do is just put a binder clip on the quick link to hold it snug and then heat it up with a lighter. In melts in place and then you just snap it in. The only downside is the possibility of condensation contamination. Moisture may become immersed and not evaporate.
If you put the Q link on the stripped chain first and then put the whole loop in the hot wax, the link snaps together without added pressure or special attention.
What about waxing chain and quicklin so that quicklink is also attached? Same way as it goes on the bike.
If it weren't for quick-links no-one would be waxing.
Unless you're a full immersion biketist and dunk the whole drivetrain in a bath of hot wax...
But people were waxing chains before quick links. Not me tho
In the past you would use a candle mixed with PTFE + handheld ceramic heater. You heat the chain up with the heater. Touch your wax to the link then move on. This can still be done today and is still the fastest way to apply wax lube.
Yes they would, but only with 6,7, and 8 speed chains. I used to break my chain every 300 miles to clean it PROPERLY before I started waxing. Trying to clean a chain fully while it is still on the bike is a waste of time.
@@peterwillson1355 Agree. Also, that's the time to pull off the chainrings, cassette, and pulleys to give them a proper cleaning as well.
Pragmatic terms, you use a 105 link chain. Between fresh waxed and used chain maybe 20-30w absolute max?
Watt per link is 30/105 means around 0.28w. Does that really matter?
I recently started immersion waxing on two of my bikes but I only get 50-70 miles until the chain sounds really dry again. This doesn’t seem right, but the only thing I can think is that the wax was too hot when I immersed it? (I now have a waxing station - but haven’t used it yet) I started with new chains, degreased them and then degreased them AGAIN with the Silca degreaser before waxing.
May not have left the chain in there long enough to heat up?
zerofrictioncycling.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2020/09/waxing-how-to-zen-master-guide-v4.pdf
Excellent as always
Have you tried having the chain connected with quick link when waxing then disconnect it to put it on the bike or as I did drop some Silca secret lube on it when I put chain on bike and connected quick link. I tried waxing it but could not connect it so took of the wax and just dropped on secret wax it may have had wax in the pin holes from waxing but this made sure
Hey Josh, is there any benefit to waxing the cassette, as well as the chain? Thanks!
There is no real performance benefit, but it does make things more quiet. The easiest way is to just put some SuperSecret drip wax on the chain and then cycle through all the gears, this will leave a thin film of wax on the cassette and rings.