It's so clean. I use a drip-on wax from Squirt, and not having to use degreaser to clean the bike is amazing. I don't care if it gives me 10W or takes 10W, clean hands and calves are worth it.
Yes the chain stays cleaner but I find the major difference is not the product I'm using but rather my behaviour towards my chain state. I'm checking it much more frequently than when I was using oil and so it gets much more care, pretty sure you could get the same result with oil but it's just more messy. I still use oil for my indoor trainer bike which doesn't get outside because waxing would bring very little benefit there
If you have to store your bike in your living space and not in a shed or basement, the biggest advantage is that everything is so clean and you don't bring any black gunk into your home.
@@Flym4n111 Same here with Squirt and the advantages but when I went with the Silca system, it switched the game up several notches especially with their new Endurance additive. More expensive to get into the system but once you've made the upgrade you'll never look back :-)
I first heard of chain waxing from Oz Cycling. I followed his steps for making up the wax, cleaning the chain, and applying the wax. Still works and the overall coast is pretty cheap. Not being a pro rider and doing my winter riding on Zwift, I do not burn through a lot of wax per year. So for me, I'll keep it DIY for my wax mix. Thanks for the good video.
Thanks Alex and crew , I became a "Waxer of the chain " after trying lubes for years! The wear and cost savings were incredible ! Once I learned how to do it , it became a lot easier , and the money I have saved changed my mind forever , thank you !
Started waxing a year ago. 900 miles on two chains, wear according to Pedros chain checker is seemingly good as new chain. Chain and drive train feels new every time I ride. So, unscientific real world use ‘feels’ loads better and appears to be less wear (UK northern all year round conditions). Hardly ever need to clean the bike and when I do it’s quick, easy and clean. Waxing was an initial process with chain prep and up front cost but I’ve saved loads of time and money in the long run, using MSW, a slow cooker and latterly Silca’s pot. I wouldn’t go back to oil.
EXACTLY the same experience for me - I've got ten years of cycling on you LOL and I'l never go back either. The Silca system is rather expensive to get into but it's well thought out and works to a fair thee well. Their extended use "ENDURANCE" wax additive I think you will find VERY addictive :-)
I wouldn’t hot water rinse your chain in the sink, like you showed in the video. The water and wax will cool just a few feet down your drainpipe and then stick and eventually build up and clog your drain. Not good.
I don’t comprehend the complaint that chain waxing is too much hassle. The time and effort prepping a chain for immersion waxing is given back many times over by a clean drivetrain that makes for faster and easier post ride bike cleaning. Anyone who is negative on immersion waxing has either not done it or did it wrong.
yeah the waxing itself may take longer than drip lube but I NEVER EVER have to clean my drivetrain! Degreasing my chain was a messy and time-intensive process that needed to happen regularly in the winter if you didn't want to chew through components (and never got fully clean). I'll happily spend a few extra minutes to rewax my chain to never have to degrease again. Plus my drivetrain components last way longer, save me loads of money and are always clean (and apparently faster too).
@@MrGoodaches The easiest is to spend absolutely nothing on cleaning and maintenance equipment, and just periodically leave your bike in some place where it gets stolen. Thus you get a squeaky clean bike with no need for maintenance from the insurance company (=all the other cyclists pay for it). Brand new tires and brake pads too. For most enthusiasts the extra insurance costs are far lower than the massive cost for all that overpriced cleaning equipment and maintenance devices. You can even rent out your shed for extra income as you no longer need a place to tinker.
@@SirPhillyLeong Nope - not in my experience - the full immersion is better because it gets into parts of the chain that the liquid wax won't easily get to . Just saying :-)
I started using wax approximately 1 year ago and will never go back to oils. Having a clean bike is so nice and it makes travelling with the bike much nicer as a result (less mess). I don’t find it difficult or annoying and if there are also performance gains and component life gains, bonus!
Should do a survey, how many of the people who do/will not wax their chains actually do ALL their own maintenance work? Not just cleaning and lubricating the chain, but also cleaning the entire drivetrain ie cassette, derailleurs, chainrings as well as the chain? I immerse hot dip wax my chain and i no longer have to carry out any cleaning of the drivetrain which used to take way longer then the entire hot wax process. Also no more dirty fingers etc if i ever need to remove the rear wheel, fix a puncture, reset a dropped chains, etc. No more chain ring calf tattoo either!
I changed from oil lubrication to drip-on wax lubrication about a year ago. I'm not really interested in power savings (I'm quite a leisurely cyclist); the main benefit for me has been a big reduction in maintenance. On the bike I commute to work on, when it had oil lubrication the chain needed cleaning at least once a fortnight in winter, and the chain needed replacing roughly once per year. Since I changed to using drip-on wax, I'm cleaning or re-waxing the chain no more than once a month, and wear on the chain seems to have greatly reduced. There aren't any downsides I can see to using drip-on wax in comparison with using oil.
Waxing chain is amazing, I have to admit that. But when the chain gets wet, you have to wipe it dry and rewax after, otherwise corrosion is going to be the problem.
It took a while but I've become a chain waxing fan. I will never hot wax but love a good drip wax like Silca Super secret. I clean with an inline chain cleaner like a Pedros Chain Pig (rarely mentioned these days) and then add drip wax. Total time needed: 2-3 minutes ZeroFriction cycling says this method gives me 80-90% of hot wax performance in normal road riding with 30% of the effort. After using this method my chain is still within spec after 3 years and 30K km.
I don’t wax my chain for the marginal gains. I do it to have a clean chain at all times. No more oily markers on me or anything that happens to touch the chain. Worth a bit of extra hassle in my view.
Don't be scared of naming products and giving honest reviews... I don't understand why you wont mention the brand... scared of not getting sponsored by a brand you don't rely on/believe in....
A Silca Ad in disguise… But yes, I love their products and I wax my chain, I also use Super Secret to top it up in between waxings. On the commuter bike, I use Squirt which I find is much better in the rain, although the chain wears more.
The main hassle for me is cleaning the factory lubricant from the chain before the first wax application. Isn't it time chain manufacturers provided either unlubed chains or with a choice of lubricant types.
I always boil several chains in an old pot with dishwasher powder, boil them again in water without powder, let them dry, then dip them in melted paraffin, done. Cheap, works without overpriced rubbish.
I´m still waiting for the ideal lubricant for millions of riders who don´t race the TdF and don´t mind losing a watt as long as it: drips on, protects the chain against rust and don´t get your fingers dirty. if it keeps for 1000 km, I wouldn't mind either. PS: Using Smoove with the new Luberetta applicator, or just the Luberetta on it's own, is just as easy as using oil. The Smoove is better at rustprotection than Super Secret but does get a little black over time.
I just buy white candles, and melt them in a pan. There after, I use white lightning squirty wax before every ride. It is infinitely cleaner, and the thing that I noticed is that a new 11 speed block could be used without the chain skipping with an old chain. So obviously my bits were not wearing out. I re-wax my chain about every 6 months. It is probably a good idea to buy and wax 4 chains at once and just replace as necessary. It is then a simple task to re-wax the 3 chains at the same time.
I think you'll find that this video is more a support video for Adam at Zero Friction Cycling after the attacks that he's been getting from Hambini and the threats to his family from Hambini's followers.
I used to have to replace a chain every 6-7000 km using oil based lubes. My current chain is waxed and its done 10 000km and the chain checker is still showing it new. I hot melt the wax but top it up with the drip on wax. Then every 1500km or so take it off, wash it in hot water and re apply the hot melt wax. It takes a maximum of about 30 minutes
I love the concept but find that my customers are not interested. I think the reason is it takes more care to keep the chain lubed (not true with the new emulsion products) but in any case, I can't seem to sell it. I love it and the new emulsion products from Silca.
I wax my chain in order to experience that feeling of superiority. The chain is certainly quieter and seems to last longer. I don't use anything special - just a melted down candle and an old saucepan. The wax lasts between 200 - 500 miles so long as it doesn't rain.
I use a double boiler. I start by placing the chain in the lower pot and bring the water to a boil. Old wax floats to the top where ti llit can be poured off. Pull the chain out and let it dry, which doesn't take long since it's hot. Then i melt wax in the upper pot and submerge wax in the usual way.
its a bit weird to say that waxing your chain is considered more time consuming than just using oil. But spending a considerable amount of time degreasing the chain isn't time consuming? Getting all the crap out of your drive isn't anoying? Just recently got into biking again and one my very first I was looking into was how do I avoid an oily drive train and preserve it for longer? Answer is wax. Its only 500km down the line but the advantage of wax is quite clear. The cassette, the chain and the chain ring are staying squaky clean. I dont care too much about the watts saved. But not needing to clean my drive train is a game changer. Hot Wax is mostly a passive process and doesnt require much manual work. Drip on wax requires the same amount of time than oil drip on. Minus the entire clean up process which can be skipped by and large.
pretty sure that many people who still use oil based lubricants do rarely or never clean the drivetrain and just replace the chain more often. while i dont think its better, it sure is less effort.
Definite hot wax with bit of teflon powder in the 'slow cooker' with 4 chains on the go. Cleaning is hot water, then ultrasonic, then a 5min soak in the hot wax. Use in MTB as well - hose after dirty rides and quick wipe - only change chain every couple of months
The thumbnail caption says "I wish I knew this" which would mean you still do not know. But you do know, otherwise you could not tell it to others, so the caption should be "I wish I had* known* this (before)".
My method - old rice cooker, 12 paraffin wax candles, 500ml paraffin oil. Perfect, under under $20. The oil makes the candle wax more flexible. Don’t over think it!
11:35 "TeamOil or TeamWax", well neither nor: my wax emultion got washed so easy I quit, and my TeflonEmulsion offers such a fluidity and Clealiness: no dust sticking
Effetto Mariposa Flowerpower Wax Lube if you want something ALOT cheaper than Silca (especially their 500ml bottle). I used many different brands of wax lube BLUB, Finish Line, Muc-off, Squirt but Effetto is the cleanest (Zerofriction aka Frictionfacts also ranks it highly)
Can’t believe people are faffing about with wax lube or so called expensive cycle chain lubes I’ve never ever used anything other than engine oil over 40 plus years of cycling.
Great to hear your journey though the waxing options. I have been using wax for a while and find the hardest part is getting all the oil from the existing chain to start with and the products to do this are expensive. Any tips?
Get a drivetrain cleaner replenishment bottle (I use Muc-Off drivetrain cleaner), pour a little bit of it into a jar with a screw-on lid, put the new chain in it, shake it about a minute, get the chain out, rinse it with tap water, hang it up to dry, done.
Hi there, I have multiple chains used in rotation now. I let any factory pregreased chain soak in turpentine or paraffin for a while. In case of turps I leave it thoroughly bathed for a couple of weeks in a waterproof lidded plastic container, and give it a gentle shake or stir every now and again. Once I think no residual grease I use a degreaser wash, such as Virasol, for say 10 mins, rinse with water, followed by an isopropyl bath for a few minutes let chain evaporate / dry with micofibre cloth. Now wax the chain remembering to take chain out of hot wax bath slowly to prevent wax running off too quickly and losing any benefit. Btw KMC now do pre waxed chains for around £30, which avoids all the initial processes above! Obviously the rest of drive train such as jockey wheels, sprockets etc should all be oil and grease free before using the waxed chain 😁😁😁
Haven’t tried. Love the idea of a clean chain but I guess if most of my rides involve lanes/mud/water even in summer, probably not advised right? (Long time Fenwicks Pro user)
Hi, I think I’ve tried a chain lube called dry lube. I personally thought it was horrible. It had stuff floating in the solutine and my chain was very loud. I went back to the chain lube I was using on my KZ-1000 which made the chain almost noise free. I know DR O is trying to get this wax on everybody’s chain. I guess I should just get a new chain and just experiment with it. I’m just not sold on the wax yet. Kinda like the tubeless tire stuff. I’m not sold on that either. I’ll get another chain and try it ollie.
Shoot me, but a few minutes with a microfibre and brake cleaner, followed with a light lubing with your preferred lube is all you need. The miniscule amount of watts you save added to the cost of time and equipment you need to do this stuff just isn't worth it for almost every rider. Spend that time and money going for a short ride to your local coffee shop with a mate.
If you use your bike for your daily commute, how are you even able to use chainwax? Every other day that I ride is one through the rain, when I tried a waxed chain the wax was gona after my first commute.
so where i live we have more than 130 days of rain in a year, would waxing still be beneficial? and can i just use some candels and a old soup can to heat them up in?
Re-waxing every COUPLE of rides? I'm using a simple oil based lubricant and only have to re-apply it after two or even three weeks. And I ride daily, around 300-350km a week... I feel like with waxing you are basically enslaving yourself to the bike and its maintenance instead of enjoying your riding...
Honestly, wax isn't that clean. If you use a home trainer, a lot of sticky black residue will end up on your floor and all over your drivetrain. If you ride outside, you won't have this problem, but within 100km, your chain and cogs will still get covered with black residue. So if you're a rider who cleans their bike and their drivetrain once a week and uses it indoors, I think oil lubricant is the preferred option.
Kmc chains always come with a coating that i swear must be wax. Online forums used to say to remove the coating but I never did, the chain would last forever with this coating on and stayed clean looking, also you've triggered the geek in me, why are you sticking to bike waxs, how about caranuba wax, or ceramic car wax?
It is a bit sad to say that they are sponsored and that sponsor is always the best there is "they say". The best thing is just buy paraffine wax and 1.6 micron PTFE powder 20:1 ratio. These chains last up to 15000 km's!!!
Skip the additives! Bad for you, and the environment. Nature did not ask for PTFEs or graphite nano particles… And I would question if you really feel the difference at all. I ride with a 100% paraffin(
#askgcntech When I waxed my clean chain and drivetrain, I am still experiencing something like shh (?) sound. It probably coming from pulley roller in derailleur and the specialist said it is ok for a week after waxing but it's been for a long time. Maybe it is because it has too many wax? On rollers there a layer of it even after cleaning wax.
Hey guys, this is more of a tech clinic question but still, when I'm rewaxing my chain I first dump it in hot water to get the old wax out. When I take out the chain it has remnants of the old wax in the inner outer link interface. Is it ok to wax the chain with it being there or do I have to painstakingly go through every link with a needle to remove it. Thanks
You need to take one end of the chain in front of you in one hand, take the other end behind you with the other hand with the chain going from between your legs. Then pull both ends up and start moving the ends backwards and forwards. That should clean the chain properly, at least if you haven't waxed yourself. Then you can insert a bar of wax up between your legs and repeat the aforementioned procedure to apply the wax. Simple and easy!
I've noticed this on my first rewax too, but didn't think much about it and went ahead. I've now done.... what.... 6, 7 rewaxes now and it didn't seem to hurt the wax. I did put it in hot water once at like the third rewax though.
Only use hot water after a mud packed bad conditions ride. If it's usual dry road usage just wipe the outside with cloth and you're golden. Been waxing for some time that way and my chain lasts 10k km with less than 0.2% elongation wear. And I add UFO drip sometimes, not using hot water after it either.
Why ? is it we always get the comments on videos like this by shed bound old lags, about doing it the "old" traditional way, or modern stuff is rubbish in favour of spending time boiling your chain in some home brew consisting of products from the hardware shelves. I have visions of roadies dancing around a couldren mumbling incantations from the advertising blurb like Macbeth's witches. I am a mountain bike rider, I Iisten on with a bemused smile. My needs are different, and indeed we in MTB world have our own fair share of back garden "experts". Thank you Alex and Ollie for intresting, informative and amusing content. I enjoy your programmes - even though I'll never get a road bike (but I do have a straight bar hybred tourer). Want a chat about disc brakes, tubless tyres, cable free shifting anyone?
No, No, No: Hot Wax Emulsion is the only way to wax properly. When you dunk the chain, let it warm, jiggle jiggle all the debris fall off the chain. The debris settle to the bottom of the tank and you're good to go for the next application. Every other method is inferior and junk. I'm sorry if this offends you but this protocol both cleans and lubricates in one process. Very cost efficient once set up.
pov: you use industrial-grade lubricant meant for keeping friction off of high torque gearing on large lathe machines (no really, i personally found that to be the best for any bicycle i have now, definetly doesnt have any friction losses anymore and it really keeps on the chain - having to only replace it perhaps once every two months. i personally had awful experience with waxing due to the wax not staying on nearly long enough, so i switched to oil based lubrication)
what is this lubricant called? Presumably, if it's meant for high torque machines then it is going to be more viscous and more attractive to dirt. The friction losses come from all the road grit, sand and dirt that sticks to oil-based lubricants and turns them into a grinding paste. Without regular degreasing, all oil-based lubricants become friction-heavy, gritty, grinding pastes that wear away components because it is impossible for them to stay free of contaminants. Solid waxes just don't pick up or trap dirt in the same way so, in the real world, lubricate far more effectively.
Are you on commission for every mention of waxing a chain , it seems like it’s the buzz word these days and your not cool if you don’t wax - that’s just my opinion of course but it seems it’s almost as if there’s an agenda behind all the promotion of waxing a chain. I’m fairly confident that regular cleaning and lube is sufficient for the masses - I’m open to persuading argument’s -- for me though just too much faff
Have you found any difference using chain wax? ⚙️
It's so clean. I use a drip-on wax from Squirt, and not having to use degreaser to clean the bike is amazing. I don't care if it gives me 10W or takes 10W, clean hands and calves are worth it.
Yes the chain stays cleaner but I find the major difference is not the product I'm using but rather my behaviour towards my chain state. I'm checking it much more frequently than when I was using oil and so it gets much more care, pretty sure you could get the same result with oil but it's just more messy. I still use oil for my indoor trainer bike which doesn't get outside because waxing would bring very little benefit there
If you have to store your bike in your living space and not in a shed or basement, the biggest advantage is that everything is so clean and you don't bring any black gunk into your home.
@@Flym4n111 Same here with Squirt and the advantages but when I went with the Silca system, it switched the game up several notches especially with their new Endurance additive. More expensive to get into the system but once you've made the upgrade you'll never look back :-)
Simply Wax and Ride
I first heard of chain waxing from Oz Cycling. I followed his steps for making up the wax, cleaning the chain, and applying the wax. Still works and the overall coast is pretty cheap. Not being a pro rider and doing my winter riding on Zwift, I do not burn through a lot of wax per year. So for me, I'll keep it DIY for my wax mix.
Thanks for the good video.
Thanks Alex and crew , I became a "Waxer of the chain " after trying lubes for years! The wear and cost savings were incredible ! Once I learned how to do it , it became a lot easier , and the money I have saved changed my mind forever , thank you !
Started waxing a year ago. 900 miles on two chains, wear according to Pedros chain checker is seemingly good as new chain. Chain and drive train feels new every time I ride. So, unscientific real world use ‘feels’ loads better and appears to be less wear (UK northern all year round conditions). Hardly ever need to clean the bike and when I do it’s quick, easy and clean. Waxing was an initial process with chain prep and up front cost but I’ve saved loads of time and money in the long run, using MSW, a slow cooker and latterly Silca’s pot. I wouldn’t go back to oil.
after 35 years of trying everything, I finally and reluctantly tried wax, and I'll never go back to any of the others.
EXACTLY the same experience for me - I've got ten years of cycling on you LOL and I'l never go back either. The Silca system is rather expensive to get into but it's well thought out and works to a fair thee well. Their extended use "ENDURANCE" wax additive I think you will find VERY addictive :-)
@@davidbee8178 👍
I wouldn’t hot water rinse your chain in the sink, like you showed in the video. The water and wax will cool just a few feet down your drainpipe and then stick and eventually build up and clog your drain. Not good.
I don’t comprehend the complaint that chain waxing is too much hassle. The time and effort prepping a chain for immersion waxing is given back many times over by a clean drivetrain that makes for faster and easier post ride bike cleaning.
Anyone who is negative on immersion waxing has either not done it or did it wrong.
Nah bro, It's easier and much faster to use a good liquid wax and apply it regularly.
Tbh, I would rather buy a new chain every ride than waste my time with waxing. It would be cheaper for me anyways.
yeah the waxing itself may take longer than drip lube but I NEVER EVER have to clean my drivetrain! Degreasing my chain was a messy and time-intensive process that needed to happen regularly in the winter if you didn't want to chew through components (and never got fully clean). I'll happily spend a few extra minutes to rewax my chain to never have to degrease again. Plus my drivetrain components last way longer, save me loads of money and are always clean (and apparently faster too).
@@MrGoodaches The easiest is to spend absolutely nothing on cleaning and maintenance equipment, and just periodically leave your bike in some place where it gets stolen. Thus you get a squeaky clean bike with no need for maintenance from the insurance company (=all the other cyclists pay for it). Brand new tires and brake pads too.
For most enthusiasts the extra insurance costs are far lower than the massive cost for all that overpriced cleaning equipment and maintenance devices. You can even rent out your shed for extra income as you no longer need a place to tinker.
@@SirPhillyLeong Nope - not in my experience - the full immersion is better because it gets into parts of the chain that the liquid wax won't easily get to . Just saying :-)
I started using wax approximately 1 year ago and will never go back to oils. Having a clean bike is so nice and it makes travelling with the bike much nicer as a result (less mess). I don’t find it difficult or annoying and if there are also performance gains and component life gains, bonus!
He's waxing lyrical, but his theories are off the chain!
Should do a survey, how many of the people who do/will not wax their chains actually do ALL their own maintenance work? Not just cleaning and lubricating the chain, but also cleaning the entire drivetrain ie cassette, derailleurs, chainrings as well as the chain? I immerse hot dip wax my chain and i no longer have to carry out any cleaning of the drivetrain which used to take way longer then the entire hot wax process. Also no more dirty fingers etc if i ever need to remove the rear wheel, fix a puncture, reset a dropped chains, etc. No more chain ring calf tattoo either!
Keep in mind Silca is a sponsor of this channel even if they may not specifically sponsor this video.
However, waxing chain is worth it.
I changed from oil lubrication to drip-on wax lubrication about a year ago. I'm not really interested in power savings (I'm quite a leisurely cyclist); the main benefit for me has been a big reduction in maintenance. On the bike I commute to work on, when it had oil lubrication the chain needed cleaning at least once a fortnight in winter, and the chain needed replacing roughly once per year. Since I changed to using drip-on wax, I'm cleaning or re-waxing the chain no more than once a month, and wear on the chain seems to have greatly reduced. There aren't any downsides I can see to using drip-on wax in comparison with using oil.
Waxing chain is amazing, I have to admit that. But when the chain gets wet, you have to wipe it dry and rewax after, otherwise corrosion is going to be the problem.
It took a while but I've become a chain waxing fan. I will never hot wax but love a good drip wax like Silca Super secret. I clean with an inline chain cleaner like a Pedros Chain Pig (rarely mentioned these days) and then add drip wax. Total time needed: 2-3 minutes ZeroFriction cycling says this method gives me 80-90% of hot wax performance in normal road riding with 30% of the effort. After using this method my chain is still within spec after 3 years and 30K km.
Are you sure about that? Up until a year ago you were telling us that Muc-Off was gods gift to cyclists.
Daaaaaaamn
Perfect 😂
They don't call em "Gaslighting Communist Network" for nothing my friend.
Muc off is the ex girlfriend , Silca is the new girlfriend.
Your comment is perfect , i'm jealous i never came up with it myself.
I don’t wax my chain for the marginal gains. I do it to have a clean chain at all times. No more oily markers on me or anything that happens to touch the chain. Worth a bit of extra hassle in my view.
Don't be scared of naming products and giving honest reviews... I don't understand why you wont mention the brand... scared of not getting sponsored by a brand you don't rely on/believe in....
A Silca Ad in disguise…
But yes, I love their products and I wax my chain, I also use Super Secret to top it up in between waxings. On the commuter bike, I use Squirt which I find is much better in the rain, although the chain wears more.
The main hassle for me is cleaning the factory lubricant from the chain before the first wax application. Isn't it time chain manufacturers provided either unlubed chains or with a choice of lubricant types.
I always boil several chains in an old pot with dishwasher powder, boil them again in water without powder, let them dry, then dip them in melted paraffin, done.
Cheap, works without overpriced rubbish.
Several Chains? Are you the mechanic for a whole racing team?
@@CrossbowBetajust change chain every 200-500km. So if you have 3 chains you don't need to wax it too often
This is the way to go! Skip hyped and fancy over priced stuff.
@@CrossbowBeta Nope, just too lazy to treat each one individually, I bought four of them.
I blocked my nozzle when I was waxing - now there's a chat up line I've never used
I´m still waiting for the ideal lubricant for millions of riders who don´t race the TdF and don´t mind losing a watt as long as it: drips on, protects the chain against rust and don´t get your fingers dirty. if it keeps for 1000 km, I wouldn't mind either.
PS: Using Smoove with the new Luberetta applicator, or just the Luberetta on it's own, is just as easy as using oil. The Smoove is better at rustprotection than Super Secret but does get a little black over time.
I just buy white candles, and melt them in a pan. There after, I use white lightning squirty wax before every ride. It is infinitely cleaner, and the thing that I noticed is that a new 11 speed block could be used without the chain skipping with an old chain. So obviously my bits were not wearing out. I re-wax my chain about every 6 months.
It is probably a good idea to buy and wax 4 chains at once and just replace as necessary. It is then a simple task to re-wax the 3 chains at the same time.
I think you'll find that this video is more a support video for Adam at Zero Friction Cycling after the attacks that he's been getting from Hambini and the threats to his family from Hambini's followers.
I used to have to replace a chain every 6-7000 km using oil based lubes. My current chain is waxed and its done 10 000km and the chain checker is still showing it new. I hot melt the wax but top it up with the drip on wax. Then every 1500km or so take it off, wash it in hot water and re apply the hot melt wax. It takes a maximum of about 30 minutes
I love the concept but find that my customers are not interested. I think the reason is it takes more care to keep the chain lubed (not true with the new emulsion products) but in any case, I can't seem to sell it. I love it and the new emulsion products from Silca.
I wax my chain in order to experience that feeling of superiority. The chain is certainly quieter and seems to last longer. I don't use anything special - just a melted down candle and an old saucepan. The wax lasts between 200 - 500 miles so long as it doesn't rain.
I use a double boiler. I start by placing the chain in the lower pot and bring the water to a boil. Old wax floats to the top where ti llit can be poured off. Pull the chain out and let it dry, which doesn't take long since it's hot. Then i melt wax in the upper pot and submerge wax in the usual way.
its a bit weird to say that waxing your chain is considered more time consuming than just using oil.
But spending a considerable amount of time degreasing the chain isn't time consuming?
Getting all the crap out of your drive isn't anoying? Just recently got into biking again and one my very first I was looking into was how do I avoid an oily drive train and preserve it for longer? Answer is wax.
Its only 500km down the line but the advantage of wax is quite clear. The cassette, the chain and the chain ring are staying squaky clean. I dont care too much about the watts saved. But not needing to clean my drive train is a game changer.
Hot Wax is mostly a passive process and doesnt require much manual work.
Drip on wax requires the same amount of time than oil drip on. Minus the entire clean up process which can be skipped by and large.
pretty sure that many people who still use oil based lubricants do rarely or never clean the drivetrain and just replace the chain more often. while i dont think its better, it sure is less effort.
But not all oils are equal, using silca's synrgetic I barely have to clean the chain.
Definite hot wax with bit of teflon powder in the 'slow cooker' with 4 chains on the go. Cleaning is hot water, then ultrasonic, then a 5min soak in the hot wax. Use in MTB as well - hose after dirty rides and quick wipe - only change chain every couple of months
The thumbnail caption says "I wish I knew this" which would mean you still do not know. But you do know, otherwise you could not tell it to others, so the caption should be "I wish I had* known* this (before)".
My method - old rice cooker, 12 paraffin wax candles, 500ml paraffin oil. Perfect, under under $20. The oil makes the candle wax more flexible. Don’t over think it!
So true! All these hyped speciality wax products are not worth it in my honest opinion. Keep it easy and simple with pure paraffin!
Love my Silca products. I have converted a few friends as well after they saw I have a better lubed drivetrain. Cheers
11:35 "TeamOil or TeamWax", well neither nor: my wax emultion got washed so easy I quit, and my TeflonEmulsion offers such a fluidity and Clealiness: no dust sticking
Effetto Mariposa Flowerpower Wax Lube if you want something ALOT cheaper than Silca (especially their 500ml bottle). I used many different brands of wax lube BLUB, Finish Line, Muc-off, Squirt but Effetto is the cleanest (Zerofriction aka Frictionfacts also ranks it highly)
Once I've tried Silca Secret Chain Blend, I'm never putting oil on my chain ever again.
Have a second chain prepped and ready for each one of your bikes. No explanation as to why is needed.
Imagine Karate Kid being about cycling... you could still use the ''wax on, wax off'' line from the script and it would make perfect sense.
I love my wax, but one thing that always piss me off is the flaking of excessive wax. Especially when I do both indoor and outdoor riding.
Can’t believe people are faffing about with wax lube or so called expensive cycle chain lubes I’ve never ever used anything other than engine oil over 40 plus years of cycling.
The ugly is definitely the cleaning of the drive chain (+chain) in the first place before applying the wax
Great to hear your journey though the waxing options. I have been using wax for a while and find the hardest part is getting all the oil from the existing chain to start with and the products to do this are expensive. Any tips?
boil in water + soap/cleaner
Get a drivetrain cleaner replenishment bottle (I use Muc-Off drivetrain cleaner), pour a little bit of it into a jar with a screw-on lid, put the new chain in it, shake it about a minute, get the chain out, rinse it with tap water, hang it up to dry, done.
Hi there, I have multiple chains used in rotation now. I let any factory pregreased chain soak in turpentine or paraffin for a while. In case of turps I leave it thoroughly bathed for a couple of weeks in a waterproof lidded plastic container, and give it a gentle shake or stir every now and again. Once I think no residual grease I use a degreaser wash, such as Virasol, for say 10 mins, rinse with water, followed by an isopropyl bath for a few minutes let chain evaporate / dry with micofibre cloth. Now wax the chain remembering to take chain out of hot wax bath slowly to prevent wax running off too quickly and losing any benefit.
Btw KMC now do pre waxed chains for around £30, which avoids all the initial processes above! Obviously the rest of drive train such as jockey wheels, sprockets etc should all be oil and grease free before using the waxed chain 😁😁😁
Haven’t tried. Love the idea of a clean chain but I guess if most of my rides involve lanes/mud/water even in summer, probably not advised right? (Long time Fenwicks Pro user)
Hi, I think I’ve tried a chain lube called dry lube. I personally thought it was horrible. It had stuff floating in the solutine and my chain was very loud. I went back to the chain lube I was using on my KZ-1000 which made the chain almost noise free. I know DR O is trying to get this wax on everybody’s chain. I guess I should just get a new chain and just experiment with it. I’m just not sold on the wax yet. Kinda like the tubeless tire stuff. I’m not sold on that either. I’ll get another chain and try it ollie.
Shoot me, but a few minutes with a microfibre and brake cleaner, followed with a light lubing with your preferred lube is all you need.
The miniscule amount of watts you save added to the cost of time and equipment you need to do this stuff just isn't worth it for almost every rider.
Spend that time and money going for a short ride to your local coffee shop with a mate.
If you use your bike for your daily commute, how are you even able to use chainwax?
Every other day that I ride is one through the rain, when I tried a waxed chain the wax was gona after my first commute.
so where i live we have more than 130 days of rain in a year, would waxing still be beneficial? and can i just use some candels and a old soup can to heat them up in?
Re-waxing every COUPLE of rides? I'm using a simple oil based lubricant and only have to re-apply it after two or even three weeks. And I ride daily, around 300-350km a week... I feel like with waxing you are basically enslaving yourself to the bike and its maintenance instead of enjoying your riding...
Honestly, wax isn't that clean. If you use a home trainer, a lot of sticky black residue will end up on your floor and all over your drivetrain. If you ride outside, you won't have this problem, but within 100km, your chain and cogs will still get covered with black residue. So if you're a rider who cleans their bike and their drivetrain once a week and uses it indoors, I think oil lubricant is the preferred option.
I couldnt watch with the Silca logos everywhere. Put a advertorial stamp somewhere sheesh. MSW FTW😄
Yep , too much
. . . then I saw the Silca snake oil, sorry, stuff on the bench and just thought "Nah".
Kmc chains always come with a coating that i swear must be wax. Online forums used to say to remove the coating but I never did, the chain would last forever with this coating on and stayed clean looking, also you've triggered the geek in me, why are you sticking to bike waxs, how about caranuba wax, or ceramic car wax?
It is a bit sad to say that they are sponsored and that sponsor is always the best there is "they say". The best thing is just buy paraffine wax and 1.6 micron PTFE powder 20:1 ratio. These chains last up to 15000 km's!!!
After first applikation you can go to 100:1 ratio.
Silca is one of the best as tested independently by ZFC.
You can email Adam of ZFC and he won’t even bother to hard sell you the stuff on his shelf.
No, it‘s certainly not the best at least not for the environment!
Skip the additives! Bad for you, and the environment. Nature did not ask for PTFEs or graphite nano particles…
And I would question if you really feel the difference at all.
I ride with a 100% paraffin(
Too early to be here
No talk about stripping factory grease?
#askgcntech When I waxed my clean chain and drivetrain, I am still experiencing something like shh (?) sound. It probably coming from pulley roller in derailleur and the specialist said it is ok for a week after waxing but it's been for a long time. Maybe it is because it has too many wax? On rollers there a layer of it even after cleaning wax.
Hey guys, this is more of a tech clinic question but still, when I'm rewaxing my chain I first dump it in hot water to get the old wax out. When I take out the chain it has remnants of the old wax in the inner outer link interface. Is it ok to wax the chain with it being there or do I have to painstakingly go through every link with a needle to remove it. Thanks
You need to take one end of the chain in front of you in one hand, take the other end behind you with the other hand with the chain going from between your legs. Then pull both ends up and start moving the ends backwards and forwards. That should clean the chain properly, at least if you haven't waxed yourself. Then you can insert a bar of wax up between your legs and repeat the aforementioned procedure to apply the wax. Simple and easy!
I've noticed this on my first rewax too, but didn't think much about it and went ahead.
I've now done.... what.... 6, 7 rewaxes now and it didn't seem to hurt the wax. I did put it in hot water once at like the third rewax though.
@@pistonburner6448you’re not funny nor helpful to the guy….so take your joke between your legs and let it sit where it belongs.
Only use hot water after a mud packed bad conditions ride. If it's usual dry road usage just wipe the outside with cloth and you're golden. Been waxing for some time that way and my chain lasts 10k km with less than 0.2% elongation wear. And I add UFO drip sometimes, not using hot water after it either.
Why ? is it we always get the comments on videos like this by shed bound old lags, about doing it the "old" traditional way, or modern stuff is rubbish in favour of spending time boiling your chain in some home brew consisting of products from the hardware shelves. I have visions of roadies dancing around a couldren mumbling incantations from the advertising blurb like Macbeth's witches.
I am a mountain bike rider, I Iisten on with a bemused smile. My needs are different, and indeed we in MTB world have our own fair share of back garden "experts".
Thank you Alex and Ollie for intresting, informative and amusing content. I enjoy your programmes - even though I'll never get a road bike (but I do have a straight bar hybred tourer).
Want a chat about disc brakes, tubless tyres, cable free shifting anyone?
Liked that. Funny, I’m into road and enjoy my gravel bike. But I spent as much time listening to GMBN as GCN even if i never have owned a MTB
bacon grease can lube your chain and attract fast dogs.
No, No, No: Hot Wax Emulsion is the only way to wax properly. When you dunk the chain, let it warm, jiggle jiggle all the debris fall off the chain. The debris settle to the bottom of the tank and you're good to go for the next application. Every other method is inferior and junk. I'm sorry if this offends you but this protocol both cleans and lubricates in one process. Very cost efficient once set up.
Everyone got their spandex on? You got enough 'sponsors' for your Sunday ride?
Team oil.
I’ve just bought the Silca system and made the switch to waxing.. brilliant made it so easy 😊😊 Pete 🚴🏻👍
pov: you use industrial-grade lubricant meant for keeping friction off of high torque gearing on large lathe machines
(no really, i personally found that to be the best for any bicycle i have now, definetly doesnt have any friction losses anymore and it really keeps on the chain - having to only replace it perhaps once every two months. i personally had awful experience with waxing due to the wax not staying on nearly long enough, so i switched to oil based lubrication)
what is this lubricant called? Presumably, if it's meant for high torque machines then it is going to be more viscous and more attractive to dirt. The friction losses come from all the road grit, sand and dirt that sticks to oil-based lubricants and turns them into a grinding paste. Without regular degreasing, all oil-based lubricants become friction-heavy, gritty, grinding pastes that wear away components because it is impossible for them to stay free of contaminants. Solid waxes just don't pick up or trap dirt in the same way so, in the real world, lubricate far more effectively.
Squirt always with great chain life.
Are you on commission for every mention of waxing a chain , it seems like it’s the buzz word these days and your not cool if you don’t wax - that’s just my opinion of course but it seems it’s almost as if there’s an agenda behind all the promotion of waxing a chain. I’m fairly confident that regular cleaning and lube is sufficient for the masses - I’m open to persuading argument’s -- for me though just too much faff
Been Squirting wax on for years ❤
One Wax Video a Week is Spam!
Standby for a Hambini reaming
First view and like 🎊❤️
Fire Alex Paton.
What don’t you like about him ?
Maybe I.m the First 😁
4:09 fapormance.........the mastery of the fap.