Amazing update. Works perfect like this. Used 15g for 3 chains. For German customers: I got 200g Quickshine deep fat fixer from Amazon for about 10€. Works great
I‘m also a recent waxing convert living in Germany. The Quickshine fat fixer and the PTFE are still on their way. I wanted to also do a 3 chain rotation. Was not sure a small 500ml leg wax melter would do the job. What wax melter did you go for @drama069?
@@MatthewBell-mg7fh Flüssigwachs Emulsion stelle ich mir auch selbst her. Einfach eine recht flüssige Emulsion aus Parafin, Polysorbat 80 (Emulgator der das Wachs mit Wasser verbindet), Wasser und Alkohol herstellen und in Fläschchen abfüllen. Bei Bedarf kann man auch hier PTFE Pulver, Graphit oder sonstige Aditive zumischen. Preis für einen Liter hier niedriger, was sonst ein kleines 100ml Fläschchen Kettenwachs kostet.
@@photooutdoor2574 Wenn du auf PTFE verzichten möchtest, dann solltest du auch mit der fertigen wasserbasierten Wachsemulsion vorsichtig sein. Die gibt es zwar relativ günstig in Chemiehandel, hat dann aber Emulgatoren drin, die auch umweltschädlich sind und zudem Haut und Augen reizen. Polysorbat 80 ist ein biologisch abbaubarer Emulgator, der auch für kosmetische Anwendungen zugelassen ist.
Everybody, please consider wearing a FFP 3 mask when working with ptfe, tungsten or graphite powder. From below 10ug diameter you are handling pure particulates which are prooven to have dangerous effects on your lungs. Especially when adding the powder to melted wachs and stiring it, a cloud of particulates can take off just by the movement of the hot air on top of your wax surface. Apart from that, what a nice idea to try fat fixer for diy strip chips. Thank you oz!
Just when I thought the video was over, you kept giving more and more. Thank you for this. This is probably the best how-to video on a subject I have seen, covering every question I had.
The original waxing videos changed my cycling life, this is a phenomenal update to the process and makes it a total no brainer. Outstanding thanks so much for the continued waxing updates.
Fantastic update. Thank you for making this process even easier. I am a total convert to chain waxing, as the difference it makes to a ride is profound. In the event of a mechanical or snagging a flat is made easier as there's no grease or dirty oil residue to deal with
I'm responsible for cleaning mine and gfriends drive chain - I just prefer it that way when I know it's done to my standards. You convinced me to try waxed chains and it's an absolute gamechanger. Thanks so much!
. I've been using your method for a few years now. 460 km in 5 days bike packing including the Brisbane valley rail trail and chain untouched smooth and quiet all the way. Love it. Cheers Les
I use a cheese grater to scrap away the settled contaminants on the bottom of the wax puck. Also, I use a strong magnet to remove any ferrous metals from the hot wax. You won't believe how much stuff the magnet picks up after rewaxing several chains.
I have been waxing for 30,000km now. I started with your guide but I have modified a bit to speed things up. First I use a much higher temp for wax (150C), it cause the water stuck in the chain to boil off and it's much faster. I also don't wait for the wax to cool down, I pull out the chain while hot and wipe them right away wearing thick gloves. I then start moving the links before it finish cooling down, so no more stiff link to break. I didn't notice any difference in wear and I still get around 300 to 500km per wax. Plus, you end up with way less wax all over your bike and stuck on the cassette and chainring. All my chains are still below 0.5 on the CC-4. I'm still on the original cassette and chainring. AXS 12 speed.
Thanks for your tip ! How long do you put the chain in het 150C wax ? And you don't let the temp go down before you put the chain out of the wax ? And the last question is if you wipe down the chain with a cloth is there a chance there is to much wax going away from the chain ? Thanks again for you help
@@MHMvanOs-qt9cc I sometime let it come down a bit, but to be honest there is plenty of wax left even if you remove it while very hot. Wiping the chain didn't affect the performance as well. I think enough stay in the roller.
@@morneauh my waxed chain after riding some kms around 50.60km after the flaking my chain when i touch it, it leaves black stains (little bit on my fingers) but the chain is dry no noticeable stickiness like the lube ones , i use just paraffin wax and i wax my chain after every 300km i am waiting for your response if u can help me the problem i am facing
Thank you for sharing all your expertise! I'm dragging my chain through a outside candle fed with old candles. After that, i put the chain into my oven at 90 °C. -Just for the idea of using different methods :)
Hi Oz. Really easy way to wax! Thank you from America! Thanks for taking the time to do excellent "how to" videos that you have invested a LOT of time producing based on science. Oz, I've been waxing now for 4 years now based on your excellent videos! I absolutly love riding on a waxed bike and won't do otherwise. Even though I'm a weekend warrior, I have learned so much from your content. I think it's content creators like you that truly affect the world in such positive ways in the new way we share info. CHEERS MATE! 😄
Not sure if you mentioned it, but most oil solidifiers require a temp of at least 176f/80c in order to function properly, so it would be pertinent to ensure your wax reaches this temp when using the solidifier. Also, I really wish I had heard that bit about removing wax buildup from the smallest cassette cogs a few years ago. I was fine with 9spd and a 12t smallest cog, but when I purchased a new gravel bike the wax buildup on the 11spd cassette lead to skipping in the 11t cog that took me longer than I would like to admit to diagnose. Lastly, Silca must hate you for this 🙂
> Lastly, Silca must hate you for this 🙂 actually, I think he is bringing customers to them. With Silca the process is bit easier. Also after I started waxing using home made wax, I later also bought squirt drip on wax (Which actually I don't recommend and If I'll not create my own drip on wax formula I'll probably buy silca)
@@donavonlewis1039 It's sticky and gunky. It creates black gunks all over drive train which is bit annoying, It's sticky to touch and bit dirty (you'll get dirty hands after touching your chain if you're using squirt, it's not as bad as with oil by any means). It has kinda consistency of paper glue. I kinda suspect that If I melted in to wax som glue stick I would get similar result. But for like multi day trips I would probably still use it. And I like it's less viscous than super secret, and also I think it dries faster. and it's half of price of supersecret if not even more.
For anyone considering this, please note PTFE is a group of nasty chemicals that stays in the environment for hundreds of years without breaking down, hence the nickname "forever chemicals". If possible I'd advise on finding alternatives. Obviously the industry uses this in many applications on a huge scale. But if you want to make a conscious choice, it's better to choose something else. Most outdoor brands are going away from PTFE:s for this very reason. Leave no trace ;)
great update to the original process. I started with your 'original recipe', probably 5 years ago and I was shocked by how long things last, and love that my drivetrain is always clean. I plan to give the new one a try. Your videos are great, but not everyone needs instructions like they're starting from square one. A lot of us are time poor, so maybe some shorter to the point videos in the future? thanks.
I recommend having as many chains as you can tolerate, wax them all at once, and rotate through all the chains. It delays exposing the cassette and crank to a worn chain, which minimizes how much the cassette and chainrings wear, which minimizes how much the chain wears, too. It saves a ton of $ and rides better.
Exactly what I do. I am currently cycling 2 chains weekly. I pour boiling water into them in a pot and agitate them then wax them in PTFE and Graphite wax. I prefer 3.
@@morneauh you throw them away at 0.5% elongation ? or you run them indefinitely way past 1% foro tens of thousands kilometers and replace the whole transmission when everything is used ??
Thanks for sharing; I never went through the hussle of freeing the links - I just mounted the stiff chain and rode about 200 meters; It slipped a lot on the first couple of pedal strokes, but at the end of my street, it was fine.
I bought a Priority Bicycles Turi 3 years ago and it uses an Enviolo rear hub and a Gates belt instead of a chain. *I put 7000 **_MILES_** on it and never did anything other than wash it with soap and water!* Then the crankset plastic sprocket got some cupped wear on it and the belt began to make a creaking sound under torque so I ordered a new sprocket, but in the meantime I put some cornstarch on the belt and the creaking sound went away. I changed the sprocket anyways when it arrived and then replaced the belt with the spare I had bought (and never used) for my road kit, and the old belt looked just as good as the belt that had zero miles on it! Seriously, I know the Derailleur is as efficient as it gets, certainly more efficient than an Enviolo hub (mine is 300%), and more efficient than my new Priority 600 that has a Gates belt as well but uses the Pinion C1.12 - 12 speed (600%) crankset gearbox, but the belts have never cut up my pants, which have gotten caught in the crank sprocket many times, and it looks like they will last orders of magnitude longer than any chain will, will never have cassettes to wear out, AND are literally *_no maintenance!_* Just wash the bike like you would a car and go. Frankly I used to love working on my old Schwinn Le Tour. I was like a bloke with his old '68 Jaguar and how he loved to tinker with the points and plugs every month or two, adjusting the valves and setting the dwell on the points. But now I'm so done with a derailleur and that constant maintenance. Even the way you've found (which is smashing genius) to extend the time between maintenance and the wear of all the components is no temptation for me to go back. I'm never going back to a derailleur, EVER. I have just as much fun and don't care about (or notice) the loss of efficiency since I'm not in any race. I'm just off to the chemist to get my prescriptions, doing my groceries or out for my 20 mile exercise ride. BTW I'm still subbed to your channel after those three years. Partly for other stuff, partly to see if you're gonna change my mind about chains, but I doubt it.
Hi Steven, I made a batch following your instructions and did one new chain successfully. I reheated the batch to do another new chain and the wax melted but there was a white solid oval blob in the melted wax weighing 19 grams and approx. 60x50x12mm in size, like a used bar of soap. Is this the cooking oil solidifier doing its job? If so, should I add more? I hope it's not the PTFE. Thank you!
Usually 95degC. Taking it out at lower temperatures leaves more wax on the chain. So, for riding in wet conditions, you could take the chain out at about 65degC.
Thanks a lot for your videos, at first I hesitated, then decided to go for your previous method of 3 plastic jars and the chemicals. And now see this update, haha. I wonder whether the new method is *AS* efficient as the chemical deep clean. Because I already prepared myself for a longer journey of cleaning.
Hi Steve. Love all you do for us. You are a top rate content producer! Waxing for 3 + years due to your most excellent videos. I have a suggestion regarding measuring the chain. I check my chain wear only after removing the wax using boiling water. Its my belief that measuring with wax in the chain can skew the results. Thanks for the info.
Really appreciate your in-depth videos and wealth of information. What 'hotpot' appliance would you recommend? Maybe include links to the recommended/used products in your video description? Thanks so much for sharing :)
Glad you are liking the vids 👍. A hotpot with temperature regulator is best...can set it and leave it for as long as you want or lower the temperature to remove the chain at about 75degC to leave more wax fir wet conditions.
Finally gone down the waxing rabbit hole. Biggest pain is not just prepping chains but cleaning all other moving parts but took my time as wax melted. Loosened chain links around a thick broom and refitted. At firt their was flakes of wax everywhere and felt super stiff but slowly loosened up. Been running DA9100 mechanical and using Finish Line green wet lube for years, and wow now it shifts like DA should. So weird looking and feeling chain after a ride and it, frame and rear wheel is spotless clean😊
To follow up, shifting is magic, driveline and rear remains clean but even after a 32k ride it is very noisy. Chain in right direction and refitted correctly, sounds like a oil lubed chain that has dried out.@@stevenleffanue
Future update. Gone back to oil based lube, waxing isnt worth all the hassle and is alot more expensive over a long period of time and the effort in maintance is more@@stevenleffanue
Why did you not clean the new chain? I thought they have a heavy grease even if it is n brandnew. I follow your old videos soaking in the gasoline, degreaser and methylated spirits before doing yhe waxing. Is that correct or this is the new method?
@@stevenleffanue ok thank you. I will follow this new step when i change new chain in the future. It is easy and more cheaper since I will not buy cleaning chemicals.
@@stevenleffanueDid you test if the new or old method give different results?
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A question: is this oil/solidifier necessary? I have PTFE (got from Ali), paraffin and mineral oil. Is It ok to mix those ingridients? Cheers from Brazil!
No , but your chain must be free from any grease or oil to enable the wax to stick to the metal of your chain. Another method is soak in gasoline then degreaser and a final rinse in isopropyl alcohol.
@ hi Steven , i did that 3 steps before i wax a new chain, so when i re wax the chain again do i need to do that 3 steps again? Or just use hot water to clean and rewax?thank you
Great video! A question about the cassette re-install on the freehub body; I usually put some grease on the body before sliding the cassette on but I noticed you didn't. So no grease is fine? Thanks!
Shouldn't need grease if you regularly remove it for cleaning. Like once a season or so. It's mainly there to prevent parts from seizing up to each other and easy removal. Doesn't have anything to do with the regular drivetrain operation as the cassette is torqued down onto the freehub tight. The moving parts/ratchet are inside the hub. Doesn't hurt a bit though to put a light film of grease on the hub body before building the cassette on it.
Amazing! Thanks a bunch! Used to let the wax cool before pulling out the chain, this leaves way less wax, even less flaking and less build up of old wax. Just one question, do you clean the microfiber cloths in de washing machine?
From what I Googled, oil solidifiers are stearic acid. So adding a stearin candle in the paraffin wax should do the same job, harden the wax and up the melting point.
Nope, unfortunately not. Wax ist a Triglyceride, i.e. Glyerine C3H5(OH)3 + 3 x CxH(2x+1)COOH (i.e. stearic acid) ----> TG + 3 x H2O. Not all oil soilidifiers are amde the same. Some contain Perlite, which is kind of a fluffy rocklike stuff. I'd buy the silca chips, just to be sure.
If you are using a new chain, should you first decrease the new chain form any lubricant from the factory? Or can you use it just like this, out of the box, and put it in to the wax?
Would you mind a deeper dive share on the Greece solidification powder? I’ve been hot waxing for many years and this is the first time I’ve heard of that helping. How do I know it’s actually helping? Have you done and A B test and can show the difference? Many thanks
Basically the folks at SILCA just did the same thing, repackaged the powder that causes a chemical reaction called oleogelation into fancy wafers, and charge 10x more for it.
250-300km in road hours is basically every 10hrs of riding which for many is weekly. I’d recommend buying 4 chains you can swap every week so you’re only waxing monthly. Don’t discard cassettes and chains in your general water bin, please recycle! There are great pre mixed waxes you can use instead of candles and your own blend of additives.
This is brilliant, thank you! One question, should that first mixture be reserved for new chains only, so you wax it ther first and then every subsequent time you wax in the 1:100 mixture?
It doesn't escape because it is a solid, not liquid. It gets slowly deformed away from compressing surfaces, which, when rewaxed this gap is refilled with wax again.
I tryed this method on a nbrand new chain, worked almost flawless. I still had some oil/greas in the chain, but only minimal barely noticeable. The wax only lasted around 200km before the chain got louder.
@@stevenleffanue thx for the reply. I soaked it longer than in the vid, there was no bubbles on my first waxing, only on the rewax i had bubbles. Maybe i jsut need more of that oil solidifier?
Is it a must I use the oil solidifier? because, it's the only thing missing now, that last time I watched your waxing video you told us to get only wax and PTFE. Now, as I was about to do it, I heard there's one more thing to get.
I do same procedure, really I learnt it from you, but ultrasonic clean new chain. I am surprised how many metal chips and flakes from manufacturing find at the bottom of the machine. Nice video.
I am a bit confused: In the video you mention the ratio for wax and PTFE quite clearly (also for rewaxing) ... what about the solidifier ? Do you add some of it for rewaxing ? Or is it ONLY added to the "initial wax block" ?
@@stevenleffanueIf we add the grease converter for the initial block, then can we reuse that (which contains the grease converter) for latter waxings or should we melt a new one with just wax and the additive?
Keep using it as normal wax. It should last the usual 3,000km. The oil conversion powder is just to clean the chain initially and becomes waxlike itself anyhow.
Hot pot or Crockpot as we call them are easily found for a few dollars at thrift stores. I'm my experience you can get 2-3 chain per cassette depending on riding conditions and the rider themselves. I can leave a cassette for a few miles longer on a 48cm gravel bike, smaller rider but have noticed some larger customers like a Clydesdale will wear theirs in half the time and require a cassette as well. I find it fascinating lol. I also do some ride support on long rides and its imperative to bring additional chains to rotate out 👍💯. Great info made a subscriber out of me!
"2-3 chains per cassette?" If that's what you're doing, you're doing it wrong! If you replace your chain before it hits 5% wear, you won't be replacing your cassette! At least for probably 10 chain life's worth! Unless you're riding in truly horrendous conditions (non-stop mud), your components should last much longer than two or three chains. That's the WHOLE IDEA behind benefiting from immersion wax and monitoring chain wear.
Shimano chains come with oil/grease on them --- so with the new oil solidifier - cleaning the new shimano chain is not required? That doesn't bring contaminants into the wax mix? Will the new ingredient (oil solidifier) allow me to scoop out oil?
Hi, a question, is it one time use only? For example, once I degreased a chain this way, can I degrease another or will I have to do another batch of wax + grease solidifier? Or do I need to add another sachet in the same batch? Thanks for your content, very interesting!
@@stevenleffanueafter 4 new chains are immersed, do you recommend new wax and PTFE, or can you continue waxing with the same batch if the chains aren’t new and don’t require degreasing?
@@stevenleffanue excellent! I’ve been using your waxing methods for 3 years, and will never go back. The solidifier will save me a lot of time. Excited to implement that as well! Thanks for all your videos over the years. Very well done! ❤️
@stevenleffanue another good update to improve the process. I saw below that you said that you only had Aussie links for where you buy all of the 'ingredients', can you post them in the description anyway, thanks.
@@stevenleffanue thank you for the answer. So if I understand right, when I clean my new chain with white spirit/alcohol few times before hot waxing - grease converter is not neccessary?
Thanks for the video. I've seen a number of people stating to allow the wax to cool slightly before pulling the chain. Is this necessary? Your video and tips suggest not. I feared that by removing whilst the wax is still hot, wax will not be allowed to sufficiently bind to the chain internals. Removing whilst hot would certainly minimise the amount of wax used per application :)
No need to let the wax cool before removing your chain, the hot molten wax that has made it's way into the rollers will stay there, it will not all run out, the wax that drips off is all from the outside of the chain. Letting the wax cool will mean more wax sticks to the outside of the chain which flakes off onto your chainstay and rear wheel, and increases the risk of it collecting inbetween the smaller cassette cogs leading to chain slipping. Like the man says, wipe the chain after removing it from the wax, this leaves a smear of wax on the exterior of the chain for corrosion resistance, but you must wipe / dry your chain if it's wet when you finish your ride or it's got wet while washing your bike.
That's a good question. Silca's advice is to let the wax cool until it starts to get murky, but I find that leaves a heavy deposit on the outside that I need to take a heat gun to.
@@JozsefEvans I just happened to have one lying around. I forget why I initially bought it, but its main use for me until now has been shrinking electrical heat shrink tubing.
I am a fan and have started waxing my chains. However, today I noticed that one of my chain links has seized up. I hadn’t ridden this bike for over a month. It looked like rust had got in there. The chain was waxed from new and prepped as per your instructions. What did I do wrong?
The commercially available block that converts grease seems like it's two compounds. I bet that's extra WS₂, the converted grease would have no friction modifier in. Are the amounts mentioned taking that into account? Also I feel like the friction modifier might need some help getting in the converted grease, perhaps the commercially available product has something like that in? That one also needs 125 °C to make the conversion happen, what's different in this method that it needs only 95 ° C?
Hi, I have a question, what do you do when you are bike touring for 3 month or more? No option to do this on the road after 200km. Is it waxing good for that cycling style? What is your recommendation? Thanks!
In that case you could take a liquid form of the wax in a bottle with you. Apply it on the chain every 100km approximately. To make your own bottled wax, click the link in the description or here... th-cam.com/video/XY7QI3xfa_4/w-d-xo.htmlsi=hhYcTpdwhzRvNAPs
@@stevenleffanue Thanks for your answer. What about build-up of wax and dirt? If you clean it in hot water is it enough to clean most of the dirt? Then rewax with the solution in bottle? Thanks!
Waxing isn't like oil , it attracts almost no dirt so your drivetrain will stay extremely clean. When it needs a clean you can use a wax and grease remover the rinse off with water.
Interested in making this after watching the video, but I am curious if it is possible for it to be adapted to a drip on style of chain waxing, or would that be less effective than a full immersion?
Drip-on lubrication is less effective than full immersive waxing. You can make this immersive wax a drip-on too...just add it to white spirits at 1:50 and wait for the wax to disolve.
Yes , it changes state into a gel or soft wax texture which simply blends into the paraffin wax. If you take scrapings ,put them on blotting paper and squash it with a weight for a day or so , no oil is present on the paper.
Hi there! Brand new follower here and am intrigued with the wax process using paraffin wax and additives; currently I'm using Molten Speed Wax. With 2 enduro bikes, 2 E bikes, a gravel bike and a trainer set up bike, all running a couple of chains each, it's an expensive mission keeping it up with them all (FYI they aren't all mine! I'm looking after my sons as well). This was a super informative video and greatly appreciated the effort you've put in to capture all the relevant details in a very easy to follow format! I'm won over and am going to give paraffin a whirl. May I ask what model cooker you are using? I'm using an old style slow cooker and have accidentally cooked the wax a few times leaving it on 😞 yours looks to be temperature controlled. I can see it's Kogan although I can't seem to find it. I'm now subscribed and addicted😄. I've just placed an order on Ali to try a couple of tops after watching a previous video of yours. Keep up the great work ✌
Glad you liking the waxing. The Kogan cooker I use is not available anymore, but any temperature controlled cooker will do , preferably with a removable bowl.
I'm confused. I just bought a brand new SRAM NX Eagle chain to try my first wax job. But it is covered in some sort of lubricant. If feels like a thin layer of a greasy substance. Do all new chains have this? Should I ignore it and proceed as per video by putting it as is in the hot wax or should I do the petrol followed by meths treatment prior to waxing? Any advice greatly appreciated.
Question: Nano PTFE Powder is sold with different mesh specification: 1.6 um, 4-7 um, 7-10 um, 1-3 um and 10-20 um. Which to choose and does it matters? How long should 25, 50 or 100 g last?
All the information is in the video...tested different grain sizes over many years and 1.6um presented with longest chain life. Initial batch ratio needs to be fairly high like about 20:1. After approximately 3,000km when starting a new batch,a lower ratio suffices , so about 80:1 or 100:1 maintains the ptfe in the links for maximum chain longevity.
hey oz, thanks for the great content! if using a small beauty wax melter (around 500ml total capacity) that won't fit the whole 500g of paraffin, I imagine I could just use a smaller proportion of ingredients, correct? say, 300g paraffin wax and then 15g of PTFE powder. thanks!
Can you reuse the wax? Do you just let it harden and use it again without adding the PTFE and oil solidifier? Or is it just the best to trow everything away and use new wax and PTFE the next time you want to wax your chain?
Graphite is black and messy even as a dry lubricant. PTFE is white and much cleaner but comes with some health safety concerns (avoid breathing in the fine powder).
@@ttkb9620Graphite sold in art stores for pencils is a mixture of pure graphite and clay that has been fired together at a high temperature, it is useless as a lubricant. Graphite sold as a dry lubricant has no clay, just pure platelets of carbon.
Hello and thanks for the really helpful and well researched videos. I have a question and hope you'll be kind enough to reply with some advice. Especially as it may help others too. I have just emptied by slow cooker ready for a new batch of wax and PTFE and the candles that I've purchased say "25% plant based wax and 75% premium paraffin". Will these be suitable? The packaging also says they are vegan which I thought would be obvious. Surprised they aren't marked as gluten free too. 🙄 I also have access to bees wax, which is obviously not vegan but wondered how that would work. TIA.
@@stevenleffanue Maybe having the chain in a rolling boil of water with some agitation for a few minutes is enough to loosen up and remove any solid contaminants. Enough for the converter to do the remainder of the work. If it works, it would eliminate the harsh chemical process. (Thanks for the awesome content, you've converted myself and several others in our riding group!)
In the old method i think it was a ratio of 1/10 pfte when now its 1/20. So can a go to the 1/20 ratio in the old way too? I clean the new chain before use.
1:20 is for initial wax batch. Once the ptfe embeds itself into the metal a 1:80 or even 1:100 will maintain the low friction quality for rest of the chains life.
@@stevenleffanue Ok, thanks. Just bought my a new second hand slow cooker for 20€ and waiting for the pfte to arrive. Paraffine i can buy at a wine making shop for 6€/500gr. Greetings from Belgium.
Where does the modified packing grease go after it’s been “converted”? And it’s difficult for me to believe that the original 3-solvent new-chain cleaning method is equivalent to the new school grease modifier method. Either the 3-solvent method was overkill or the new method is insufficient.
The oil/grease gets converted into a polymer which is a semi-solid. It combines with the paraffin wax but you can't see it. I will be uploading highlights from my 4 month testing which will make it more understandable.
Steven, thanks again for this content. One question: i did not 100% get the use of the oil solidifier. Is it really necessary? It is not so common in germany and not easy to get. Cheers elmar
Amazing update. Works perfect like this. Used 15g for 3 chains. For German customers: I got 200g Quickshine deep fat fixer from Amazon for about 10€. Works great
I‘m also a recent waxing convert living in Germany. The Quickshine fat fixer and the PTFE are still on their way. I wanted to also do a 3 chain rotation. Was not sure a small 500ml leg wax melter would do the job. What wax melter did you go for @drama069?
@@MatthewBell-mg7fh use any cooker you like. I have Russel Hobbs Slowcooker 25570-56
@@MatthewBell-mg7fh Flüssigwachs Emulsion stelle ich mir auch selbst her. Einfach eine recht flüssige Emulsion aus Parafin, Polysorbat 80 (Emulgator der das Wachs mit Wasser verbindet), Wasser und Alkohol herstellen und in Fläschchen abfüllen. Bei Bedarf kann man auch hier PTFE Pulver, Graphit oder sonstige Aditive zumischen. Preis für einen Liter hier niedriger, was sonst ein kleines 100ml Fläschchen Kettenwachs kostet.
Besser gleich Wachsemulsion kaufen. 5 Liter für 35,-€. Und dann die Additive dazu. AUF PTFE sollte man wirklich verzichten.
@@photooutdoor2574 Wenn du auf PTFE verzichten möchtest, dann solltest du auch mit der fertigen wasserbasierten Wachsemulsion vorsichtig sein. Die gibt es zwar relativ günstig in Chemiehandel, hat dann aber Emulgatoren drin, die auch umweltschädlich sind und zudem Haut und Augen reizen. Polysorbat 80 ist ein biologisch abbaubarer Emulgator, der auch für kosmetische Anwendungen zugelassen ist.
Everybody, please consider wearing a FFP 3 mask when working with ptfe, tungsten or graphite powder. From below 10ug diameter you are handling pure particulates which are prooven to have dangerous effects on your lungs. Especially when adding the powder to melted wachs and stiring it, a cloud of particulates can take off just by the movement of the hot air on top of your wax surface.
Apart from that, what a nice idea to try fat fixer for diy strip chips. Thank you oz!
Good point for sure, something obvious get overlooked way to many times.
Or just do it safely. When it's melted into wax it's is not going into your body.
one more reason to stay on pure wax
Would it still be dangerous afterwards on the chain? If your bike is in a living room?
@@StringerBell50 do not think so as it's attached to wax. Plus in one video Oz try to scrape it off metal and it's stuck hard.
Just when I thought the video was over, you kept giving more and more. Thank you for this. This is probably the best how-to video on a subject I have seen, covering every question I had.
The original waxing videos changed my cycling life, this is a phenomenal update to the process and makes it a total no brainer. Outstanding thanks so much for the continued waxing updates.
Fantastic update. Thank you for making this process even easier. I am a total convert to chain waxing, as the difference it makes to a ride is profound. In the event of a mechanical or snagging a flat is made easier as there's no grease or dirty oil residue to deal with
Would acetone + graphite be a good substitute?
I'm responsible for cleaning mine and gfriends drive chain - I just prefer it that way when I know it's done to my standards. You convinced me to try waxed chains and it's an absolute gamechanger. Thanks so much!
You converted me to both chain waxing and TPU tubes about two years ago. Thanks
. I've been using your method for a few years now. 460 km in 5 days bike packing including the Brisbane valley rail trail and chain untouched smooth and quiet all the way. Love it. Cheers Les
Great to hear Les and thanx for your experience 👍
I have been reusing my regular QR links on my chains 100s of times with no issues. I've been waxing for a decade.
Shimano's?
@@DR_1_1 And KMC
@@DR_1_1 yea same question, was it Shimano?
Best and most comprehensive video about chain waxing. Thanks a lot!
I use a cheese grater to scrap away the settled contaminants on the bottom of the wax puck. Also, I use a strong magnet to remove any ferrous metals from the hot wax. You won't believe how much stuff the magnet picks up after rewaxing several chains.
Magnet is a great idea. Scraping the bottom of the block would also remove a lot of the friction additive tho??
I have been waxing for 30,000km now. I started with your guide but I have modified a bit to speed things up. First I use a much higher temp for wax (150C), it cause the water stuck in the chain to boil off and it's much faster. I also don't wait for the wax to cool down, I pull out the chain while hot and wipe them right away wearing thick gloves. I then start moving the links before it finish cooling down, so no more stiff link to break. I didn't notice any difference in wear and I still get around 300 to 500km per wax. Plus, you end up with way less wax all over your bike and stuck on the cassette and chainring. All my chains are still below 0.5 on the CC-4. I'm still on the original cassette and chainring. AXS 12 speed.
150C sounds like a good idea. I'll try that next time I wax a chain.
Thanks for your tip ! How long do you put the chain in het 150C wax ? And you don't let the temp go down before you put the chain out of the wax ? And the last question is if you wipe down the chain with a cloth is there a chance there is to much wax going away from the chain ? Thanks again for you help
@@MHMvanOs-qt9cc I sometime let it come down a bit, but to be honest there is plenty of wax left even if you remove it while very hot. Wiping the chain didn't affect the performance as well. I think enough stay in the roller.
@@morneauh my waxed chain after riding some kms around 50.60km after the flaking my chain when i touch it, it leaves black stains (little bit on my fingers) but the chain is dry no noticeable stickiness like the lube ones , i use just paraffin wax and i wax my chain after every 300km i am waiting for your response if u can help me the problem i am facing
I take mine out hot too but I think your temperature is to high.
Thank you for sharing all your expertise! I'm dragging my chain through a outside candle fed with old candles. After that, i put the chain into my oven at 90 °C. -Just for the idea of using different methods :)
Thank you for all the work that you have done when it comes to waxing , it has saved me many $$.
Hi Oz. Really easy way to wax! Thank you from America! Thanks for taking the time to do excellent "how to" videos that you have invested a LOT of time producing based on science. Oz, I've been waxing now for 4 years now based on your excellent videos! I absolutly love riding on a waxed bike and won't do otherwise. Even though I'm a weekend warrior, I have learned so much from your content. I think it's content creators like you that truly affect the world in such positive ways in the new way we share info. CHEERS MATE! 😄
Thank you , you just made my day 👍
Not sure if you mentioned it, but most oil solidifiers require a temp of at least 176f/80c in order to function properly, so it would be pertinent to ensure your wax reaches this temp when using the solidifier.
Also, I really wish I had heard that bit about removing wax buildup from the smallest cassette cogs a few years ago. I was fine with 9spd and a 12t smallest cog, but when I purchased a new gravel bike the wax buildup on the 11spd cassette lead to skipping in the 11t cog that took me longer than I would like to admit to diagnose.
Lastly, Silca must hate you for this 🙂
> Lastly, Silca must hate you for this 🙂
actually, I think he is bringing customers to them. With Silca the process is bit easier. Also after I started waxing using home made wax, I later also bought squirt drip on wax (Which actually I don't recommend and If I'll not create my own drip on wax formula I'll probably buy silca)
@@burlak3182 why didnt you like the Squirt drip on wax?
@@donavonlewis1039 It's sticky and gunky. It creates black gunks all over drive train which is bit annoying, It's sticky to touch and bit dirty (you'll get dirty hands after touching your chain if you're using squirt, it's not as bad as with oil by any means). It has kinda consistency of paper glue. I kinda suspect that If I melted in to wax som glue stick I would get similar result.
But for like multi day trips I would probably still use it. And I like it's less viscous than super secret, and also I think it dries faster. and it's half of price of supersecret if not even more.
For anyone considering this, please note PTFE is a group of nasty chemicals that stays in the environment for hundreds of years without breaking down, hence the nickname "forever chemicals". If possible I'd advise on finding alternatives. Obviously the industry uses this in many applications on a huge scale. But if you want to make a conscious choice, it's better to choose something else. Most outdoor brands are going away from PTFE:s for this very reason. Leave no trace ;)
can you tell us, good substance to add for waxing that easy to found and not nasty chemicals? pretty pleaseeeeee
That's good, I do not need to worry about PTFE breaking on my chain.
@@dizhamrl4386there’s little benefit adding anything else to the wax
In addition, it makes effectively no difference to drive train efficiency, just use plain wax. PTFE should be banned.
I use plain wax, no need for any additives for the regular rider.
great update to the original process. I started with your 'original recipe', probably 5 years ago and I was shocked by how long things last, and love that my drivetrain is always clean. I plan to give the new one a try. Your videos are great, but not everyone needs instructions like they're starting from square one. A lot of us are time poor, so maybe some shorter to the point videos in the future? thanks.
I recommend having as many chains as you can tolerate, wax them all at once, and rotate through all the chains. It delays exposing the cassette and crank to a worn chain, which minimizes how much the cassette and chainrings wear, which minimizes how much the chain wears, too. It saves a ton of $ and rides better.
Exactly what I do. I am currently cycling 2 chains weekly.
I pour boiling water into them in a pot and agitate them then wax them in PTFE and Graphite wax.
I prefer 3.
Also 500 gr of wax + all the chemicals sounds like a lot for a chain... probable less than 1/100th of that stays on the chain.
@@Leo-gt1bx I got a bigger pot, now I'm rotating 7 chains.
@@morneauh you throw them away at 0.5% elongation ? or you run them indefinitely way past 1% foro tens of thousands kilometers and replace the whole transmission when everything is used ??
2:18 I've been working this way since day one (for the last 5 or more years), I'm glad that you finally understood, maybe zero friction does too
Thanks for sharing; I never went through the hussle of freeing the links - I just mounted the stiff chain and rode about 200 meters; It slipped a lot on the first couple of pedal strokes, but at the end of my street, it was fine.
Hassle hustle. You're looking for hassle.
Yep, same here.
I bought a Priority Bicycles Turi 3 years ago and it uses an Enviolo rear hub and a Gates belt instead of a chain. *I put 7000 **_MILES_** on it and never did anything other than wash it with soap and water!* Then the crankset plastic sprocket got some cupped wear on it and the belt began to make a creaking sound under torque so I ordered a new sprocket, but in the meantime I put some cornstarch on the belt and the creaking sound went away.
I changed the sprocket anyways when it arrived and then replaced the belt with the spare I had bought (and never used) for my road kit, and the old belt looked just as good as the belt that had zero miles on it!
Seriously, I know the Derailleur is as efficient as it gets, certainly more efficient than an Enviolo hub (mine is 300%), and more efficient than my new Priority 600 that has a Gates belt as well but uses the Pinion C1.12 - 12 speed (600%) crankset gearbox, but the belts have never cut up my pants, which have gotten caught in the crank sprocket many times, and it looks like they will last orders of magnitude longer than any chain will, will never have cassettes to wear out, AND are literally *_no maintenance!_* Just wash the bike like you would a car and go.
Frankly I used to love working on my old Schwinn Le Tour. I was like a bloke with his old '68 Jaguar and how he loved to tinker with the points and plugs every month or two, adjusting the valves and setting the dwell on the points. But now I'm so done with a derailleur and that constant maintenance. Even the way you've found (which is smashing genius) to extend the time between maintenance and the wear of all the components is no temptation for me to go back. I'm never going back to a derailleur, EVER. I have just as much fun and don't care about (or notice) the loss of efficiency since I'm not in any race. I'm just off to the chemist to get my prescriptions, doing my groceries or out for my 20 mile exercise ride.
BTW I'm still subbed to your channel after those three years. Partly for other stuff, partly to see if you're gonna change my mind about chains, but I doubt it.
Thanks for your great input about beltdrive...I agree. Maybe one day internal gearing will be super- efficient, then no more external gears 👍
@@stevenleffanuejust ride single speed! haha
Hi Steven, I made a batch following your instructions and did one new chain successfully. I reheated the batch to do another new chain and the wax melted but there was a white solid oval blob in the melted wax weighing 19 grams and approx. 60x50x12mm in size, like a used bar of soap. Is this the cooking oil solidifier doing its job? If so, should I add more? I hope it's not the PTFE. Thank you!
Sounds like ptfe. Mix it in
Hello again , what is the tempreture of the wax when you remove the chain from cooker thank you.
Usually 95degC. Taking it out at lower temperatures leaves more wax on the chain. So, for riding in wet conditions, you could take the chain out at about 65degC.
Thanks a lot for your videos, at first I hesitated, then decided to go for your previous method of 3 plastic jars and the chemicals. And now see this update, haha. I wonder whether the new method is *AS* efficient as the chemical deep clean. Because I already prepared myself for a longer journey of cleaning.
Either cleaning process works. You can still use your hotpot.
Great video as always! Thanks so much for sharing your experience! Elmar
Hi Steve. Love all you do for us. You are a top rate content producer! Waxing for 3 + years due to your most excellent videos. I have a suggestion regarding measuring the chain. I check my chain wear only after removing the wax using boiling water. Its my belief that measuring with wax in the chain can skew the results. Thanks for the info.
Yes that should be true , I've often thought that. Will consult with a few here about that and may need to do video about that. Thanx 👍
You're a wizard!
Really appreciate your in-depth videos and wealth of information. What 'hotpot' appliance would you recommend? Maybe include links to the recommended/used products in your video description? Thanks so much for sharing :)
Glad you are liking the vids 👍. A hotpot with temperature regulator is best...can set it and leave it for as long as you want or lower the temperature to remove the chain at about 75degC to leave more wax fir wet conditions.
Finally gone down the waxing rabbit hole. Biggest pain is not just prepping chains but cleaning all other moving parts but took my time as wax melted. Loosened chain links around a thick broom and refitted. At firt their was flakes of wax everywhere and felt super stiff but slowly loosened up. Been running DA9100 mechanical and using Finish Line green wet lube for years, and wow now it shifts like DA should. So weird looking and feeling chain after a ride and it, frame and rear wheel is spotless clean😊
Yep , sounds like you got the waxing process spot on there 👍
To follow up, shifting is magic, driveline and rear remains clean but even after a 32k ride it is very noisy. Chain in right direction and refitted correctly, sounds like a oil lubed chain that has dried out.@@stevenleffanue
Future update. Gone back to oil based lube, waxing isnt worth all the hassle and is alot more expensive over a long period of time and the effort in maintance is more@@stevenleffanue
Wow, really useful information for the ratio’s and procedures, thanks. 🙂
Why did you not clean the new chain? I thought they have a heavy grease even if it is n brandnew. I follow your old videos soaking in the gasoline, degreaser and methylated spirits before doing yhe waxing. Is that correct or this is the new method?
This seems to be the new method with the additive to change the grease/oils straight to wax.
You did correct. However, this is the new method which does away with all that initial cleaning . You can still do it the old way if you like 👍
@@stevenleffanue ok thank you. I will follow this new step when i change new chain in the future. It is easy and more cheaper since I will not buy cleaning chemicals.
@@stevenleffanueDid you test if the new or old method give different results?
A question: is this oil/solidifier necessary? I have PTFE (got from Ali), paraffin and mineral oil. Is It ok to mix those ingridients? Cheers from Brazil!
The oil solidifier is only for introducing a brand new chain into a wax based lubricant.
Hi, does grease converter powder must be add? Thank you
No , but your chain must be free from any grease or oil to enable the wax to stick to the metal of your chain. Another method is soak in gasoline then degreaser and a final rinse in isopropyl alcohol.
@ hi Steven , i did that 3 steps before i wax a new chain, so when i re wax the chain again do i need to do that 3 steps again? Or just use hot water to clean and rewax?thank you
@hubert1981 just the hot water rinse then pop into the wax
@ Thank you very much
7:27 the grease would combine and thin with the wax through several waxings, so there is no need for additional chemistry
I have never done this before. Did he add the oil solidifier to capture residual oils and films lingering on the factory chain? Thanks for your input.
This is the best bike video ive seen
Great video!
A question about the cassette re-install on the freehub body; I usually put some grease on the body before sliding the cassette on but I noticed you didn't. So no grease is fine?
Thanks!
Not essential but recommended. There was grease on my freehub body from previous.
Shouldn't need grease if you regularly remove it for cleaning. Like once a season or so. It's mainly there to prevent parts from seizing up to each other and easy removal. Doesn't have anything to do with the regular drivetrain operation as the cassette is torqued down onto the freehub tight. The moving parts/ratchet are inside the hub. Doesn't hurt a bit though to put a light film of grease on the hub body before building the cassette on it.
Thanks a lot! I have been waiting to try this recipe
Amazing! Thanks a bunch! Used to let the wax cool before pulling out the chain, this leaves way less wax, even less flaking and less build up of old wax. Just one question, do you clean the microfiber cloths in de washing machine?
I'm guilty , I throw them out once they get too caked up with wax. You can buy packs of 20 for about $5 here.
From what I Googled, oil solidifiers are stearic acid. So adding a stearin candle in the paraffin wax should do the same job, harden the wax and up the melting point.
Nope, unfortunately not. Wax ist a Triglyceride, i.e. Glyerine C3H5(OH)3 + 3 x CxH(2x+1)COOH (i.e. stearic acid) ----> TG + 3 x H2O. Not all oil soilidifiers are amde the same. Some contain Perlite, which is kind of a fluffy rocklike stuff. I'd buy the silca chips, just to be sure.
Yes. You will note on the oil solidifier packet that it melts at 80degC. That indicates it is stearic acid , not pearlite.
I use a electric stirrer in order to have a better dispersion when soaking the chain
If you are using a new chain, should you first decrease the new chain form any lubricant from the factory? Or can you use it just like this, out of the box, and put it in to the wax?
Straight out of the box into wax with the oil solidifier powder.
So no need to decrease the new chain?@@stevenleffanue
So no need to decrease the new chain? @@stevenleffanue
Thank you for the amazing one step chain waxing. after this update, there is no step one to remove the grease in new chain in petrol. Am I correct?
Correct , just put the new , greased chain straight into the hot mixture...no prior cleaning chemicals required.
Excellent video. Very helpful. Thank you.
Just one thing...I am always jealous of your beautifull cycling weather overthere! We are on the wrong side of the globe here in the Netherlands. 😉
Yes,we have good weather a lot of the time. But we are jealous of your government giving so much priority to the cyclists.
On the other hand, you're probably less likely to get skin cancer than the typical Aussie.
Thank you for yet another excellent video. I'm in search for a used slow cooker now 👍
no need anymore to remove the factory grease? that's amazing
Would you mind a deeper dive share on the Greece solidification powder? I’ve been hot waxing for many years and this is the first time I’ve heard of that helping. How do I know it’s actually helping? Have you done and A B test and can show the difference? Many thanks
4 months testing. I have video footage but didn't think anyone would want to see it. I mite upload it soon 👍
Basically the folks at SILCA just did the same thing, repackaged the powder that causes a chemical reaction called oleogelation into fancy wafers, and charge 10x more for it.
250-300km in road hours is basically every 10hrs of riding which for many is weekly. I’d recommend buying 4 chains you can swap every week so you’re only waxing monthly. Don’t discard cassettes and chains in your general water bin, please recycle! There are great pre mixed waxes you can use instead of candles and your own blend of additives.
10:40 while this is a helpful tip on sizing the new chain, if you have old one you can match that instead.
This is brilliant, thank you! One question, should that first mixture be reserved for new chains only, so you wax it ther first and then every subsequent time you wax in the 1:100 mixture?
No , just keep using the initial block like normal for 3,000km , then change to the 1:100 mix.
Hi, good update, BUT, what about the grease contained in the rollers of the chain. Doesn‘t it escape while riding?
It doesn't escape because it is a solid, not liquid. It gets slowly deformed away from compressing surfaces, which, when rewaxed this gap is refilled with wax again.
I have had such great results with the original process, I'm planning to just stick with it.
whut are the stainless steel or titanium chains of popular brands?
I tryed this method on a nbrand new chain, worked almost flawless. I still had some oil/greas in the chain, but only minimal barely noticeable. The wax only lasted around 200km before the chain got louder.
Try soaking it a bit longer...until no more bubbles come out of the chain for maximum wax penetration. That should do it.
@@stevenleffanue thx for the reply. I soaked it longer than in the vid, there was no bubbles on my first waxing, only on the rewax i had bubbles. Maybe i jsut need more of that oil solidifier?
It may be that it will take a few rewaxings to get the ptfe into all the nooks and crannies of the links so it lasts longer?
Great video as expected. Thank you.
If my cheap crockpot can only heat up until 72°Celsius, I guess that is not sufficient for the oil solidifier to do his necessary work?
If that's the case you can clean your chain using petrol then degreaser then IPA instead of the oil solidifier.
Is it a must I use the oil solidifier? because, it's the only thing missing now, that last time I watched your waxing video you told us to get only wax and PTFE. Now, as I was about to do it, I heard there's one more thing to get.
Only if you are starting a new chain , otherwise it's the same.
Doesn't new chain often have grease on it to avoid them rusting? Mine had and I had to clean it before using wax.
Yes. Remove any grease and oils before waxing
I do same procedure, really I learnt it from you, but ultrasonic clean new chain. I am surprised how many metal chips and flakes from manufacturing find at the bottom of the machine.
Nice video.
I am a bit confused:
In the video you mention the ratio for wax and PTFE quite clearly (also for rewaxing) ... what about the solidifier ? Do you add some of it for rewaxing ?
Or is it ONLY added to the "initial wax block" ?
Only for the initial block
@@stevenleffanueIf we add the grease converter for the initial block, then can we reuse that (which contains the grease converter) for latter waxings or should we melt a new one with just wax and the additive?
Keep using it as normal wax. It should last the usual 3,000km. The oil conversion powder is just to clean the chain initially and becomes waxlike itself anyhow.
Would it be possible to use the oil solidifier without the wax to clean a brand new chain?
How would you get the oil solidifier into the chain?
@@stevenleffanueWould it work in warm water or in something else?
Not warm water. Heat the chain up to 700degC mite melt the factory grease out.
To loosen chain I use the plastic dustbin handle, works a treat😄
Hot pot or Crockpot as we call them are easily found for a few dollars at thrift stores. I'm my experience you can get 2-3 chain per cassette depending on riding conditions and the rider themselves. I can leave a cassette for a few miles longer on a 48cm gravel bike, smaller rider but have noticed some larger customers like a Clydesdale will wear theirs in half the time and require a cassette as well. I find it fascinating lol. I also do some ride support on long rides and its imperative to bring additional chains to rotate out 👍💯. Great info made a subscriber out of me!
"2-3 chains per cassette?"
If that's what you're doing, you're doing it wrong!
If you replace your chain before it hits 5% wear, you won't be replacing your cassette! At least for probably 10 chain life's worth! Unless you're riding in truly horrendous conditions (non-stop mud), your components should last much longer than two or three chains. That's the WHOLE IDEA behind benefiting from immersion wax and monitoring chain wear.
Shimano chains come with oil/grease on them --- so with the new oil solidifier - cleaning the new shimano chain is not required? That doesn't bring contaminants into the wax mix? Will the new ingredient (oil solidifier) allow me to scoop out oil?
No cleaning required. The oil becomes a wax-like solid and mixes in with the wax.
Hi, a question, is it one time use only? For example, once I degreased a chain this way, can I degrease another or will I have to do another batch of wax + grease solidifier? Or do I need to add another sachet in the same batch? Thanks for your content, very interesting!
1 batch will do 4 chains.
@@stevenleffanueafter 4 new chains are immersed, do you recommend new wax and PTFE, or can you continue waxing with the same batch if the chains aren’t new and don’t require degreasing?
Can use same batch until wax colour starts looking grey in colour
@@stevenleffanue excellent! I’ve been using your waxing methods for 3 years, and will never go back. The solidifier will save me a lot of time. Excited to implement that as well! Thanks for all your videos over the years. Very well done! ❤️
@stevenleffanue another good update to improve the process. I saw below that you said that you only had Aussie links for where you buy all of the 'ingredients', can you post them in the description anyway, thanks.
www.ebay.com.au/itm/265894111561?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=705-154756-20017-0&ssspo=Rb-c1uZOSbu&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=-h7k82GPSla&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
Hello! What's the purpose of the "grease converter" powder?
Converts the grease to a non-grease which allows the wax to stick to the metal of the chain
Hi, can we put the new chain directly to the hot pot or do we need to clean the fabric lube of the chain? Thanks
Yes , following these video instructions, straight into the hotpot.
@@stevenleffanueThanks for the information and thanks for all Your videos. Your a master. 👏👏👏
I' ve donne it. Its really good and clean. I don't have the sache of tourning it to solified, Just let it dry and Stay inside the Pot.🙂
Hello! I did not understand is the grease converter necessary? What's the outcome/problem if I dont use it? It's kind of hard to get it where I live.
It replaces the initial chain cleaning process.
@@stevenleffanue thank you for the answer. So if I understand right, when I clean my new chain with white spirit/alcohol few times before hot waxing - grease converter is not neccessary?
Yes
Thanks for the video.
I've seen a number of people stating to allow the wax to cool slightly before pulling the chain. Is this necessary? Your video and tips suggest not.
I feared that by removing whilst the wax is still hot, wax will not be allowed to sufficiently bind to the chain internals.
Removing whilst hot would certainly minimise the amount of wax used per application :)
No need to let the wax cool before removing your chain, the hot molten wax that has made it's way into the rollers will stay there, it will not all run out, the wax that drips off is all from the outside of the chain. Letting the wax cool will mean more wax sticks to the outside of the chain which flakes off onto your chainstay and rear wheel, and increases the risk of it collecting inbetween the smaller cassette cogs leading to chain slipping. Like the man says, wipe the chain after removing it from the wax, this leaves a smear of wax on the exterior of the chain for corrosion resistance, but you must wipe / dry your chain if it's wet when you finish your ride or it's got wet while washing your bike.
That's a good question. Silca's advice is to let the wax cool until it starts to get murky, but I find that leaves a heavy deposit on the outside that I need to take a heat gun to.
@christopheroliver148 that's been my experience too, however I do not use a heat gun to remove it.
@@JozsefEvans I just happened to have one lying around. I forget why I initially bought it, but its main use for me until now has been shrinking electrical heat shrink tubing.
Not necessary. However if you do that , more wax remains in and on the chain which is good for protecting the chain from moisture.
I am a fan and have started waxing my chains. However, today I noticed that one of my chain links has seized up. I hadn’t ridden this bike for over a month. It looked like rust had got in there. The chain was waxed from new and prepped as per your instructions. What did I do wrong?
The commercially available block that converts grease seems like it's two compounds. I bet that's extra WS₂, the converted grease would have no friction modifier in. Are the amounts mentioned taking that into account? Also I feel like the friction modifier might need some help getting in the converted grease, perhaps the commercially available product has something like that in? That one also needs 125 °C to make the conversion happen, what's different in this method that it needs only 95 ° C?
Hi, I have a question, what do you do when you are bike touring for 3 month or more? No option to do this on the road after 200km. Is it waxing good for that cycling style? What is your recommendation?
Thanks!
In that case you could take a liquid form of the wax in a bottle with you. Apply it on the chain every 100km approximately.
To make your own bottled wax, click the link in the description or here...
th-cam.com/video/XY7QI3xfa_4/w-d-xo.htmlsi=hhYcTpdwhzRvNAPs
@@stevenleffanue Thanks for your answer. What about build-up of wax and dirt? If you clean it in hot water is it enough to clean most of the dirt? Then rewax with the solution in bottle?
Thanks!
Waxing isn't like oil , it attracts almost no dirt so your drivetrain will stay extremely clean. When it needs a clean you can use a wax and grease remover the rinse off with water.
Hello, I would be curious to know where you purchase your PTFE and WS2 because in Canada it's quite expensive.
Aliexpress
@@stevenleffanue thanks!
Interested in making this after watching the video, but I am curious if it is possible for it to be adapted to a drip on style of chain waxing, or would that be less effective than a full immersion?
Drip-on lubrication is less effective than full immersive waxing. You can make this immersive wax a drip-on too...just add it to white spirits at 1:50 and wait for the wax to disolve.
What happens with the oil/solidifier substance after? Does it just stay in the wax?
Yes , it changes state into a gel or soft wax texture which simply blends into the paraffin wax. If you take scrapings ,put them on blotting paper and squash it with a weight for a day or so , no oil is present on the paper.
Hi there! Brand new follower here and am intrigued with the wax process using paraffin wax and additives; currently I'm using Molten Speed Wax. With 2 enduro bikes, 2 E bikes, a gravel bike and a trainer set up bike, all running a couple of chains each, it's an expensive mission keeping it up with them all (FYI they aren't all mine! I'm looking after my sons as well). This was a super informative video and greatly appreciated the effort you've put in to capture all the relevant details in a very easy to follow format! I'm won over and am going to give paraffin a whirl. May I ask what model cooker you are using? I'm using an old style slow cooker and have accidentally cooked the wax a few times leaving it on 😞 yours looks to be temperature controlled. I can see it's Kogan although I can't seem to find it. I'm now subscribed and addicted😄. I've just placed an order on Ali to try a couple of tops after watching a previous video of yours. Keep up the great work ✌
Glad you liking the waxing. The Kogan cooker I use is not available anymore, but any temperature controlled cooker will do , preferably with a removable bowl.
I'm confused. I just bought a brand new SRAM NX Eagle chain to try my first wax job. But it is covered in some sort of lubricant. If feels like a thin layer of a greasy substance. Do all new chains have this? Should I ignore it and proceed as per video by putting it as is in the hot wax or should I do the petrol followed by meths treatment prior to waxing? Any advice greatly appreciated.
That's factory lubricant on your chain which must be removed before waxing. Use the method in this video or chemical removal.
Question: Nano PTFE Powder is sold with different mesh specification: 1.6 um, 4-7 um, 7-10 um, 1-3 um and 10-20 um. Which to choose and does it matters? How long should 25, 50 or 100 g last?
All the information is in the video...tested different grain sizes over many years and 1.6um presented with longest chain life.
Initial batch ratio needs to be fairly high like about 20:1. After approximately 3,000km when starting a new batch,a lower ratio suffices , so about 80:1 or 100:1 maintains the ptfe in the links for maximum chain longevity.
@@stevenleffanue I apologize. I did watch the whole video some time ago, but didn´t remember this was mentioned.
hey oz, thanks for the great content! if using a small beauty wax melter (around 500ml total capacity) that won't fit the whole 500g of paraffin, I imagine I could just use a smaller proportion of ingredients, correct? say, 300g paraffin wax and then 15g of PTFE powder. thanks!
Can you reuse the wax? Do you just let it harden and use it again without adding the PTFE and oil solidifier? Or is it just the best to trow everything away and use new wax and PTFE the next time you want to wax your chain?
One wax batch will last a chain 3,000km . After that, the wax starts to go grey with contamination, so it's time to start a new batch.
Do you have any suggestions on recommended equipment, i.e. the hot pot? Thanks
Almost any cheapo hotpot,slow cooker , rice cooker will do. Best is one where you can preset the temperature but not vital.
I am using a cheap ladies leg wax melter. There was one in the video. Ok but very small and just fits one chain.
just basic equipment for wax chef
Hi, is the grease conversion powder necessary? Your older recipes don’t include it.
It's an alternative to the initial clean.
no
Hi,
Can i do 3-4 chains in the same batch of wqx , or should i 2x or 3x the mixture ?
Preferably double the batch size to immerse 3 or more chains at once
Brilliant update - thank you.
The graphite u are using is it the same as the one you can find in Art Store?
Graphite is black and messy even as a dry lubricant. PTFE is white and much cleaner but comes with some health safety concerns (avoid breathing in the fine powder).
@@dogphlap6749 the graphite powder is the one you get from scratching a pencil?
@@dogphlap6749 is the same than the one u get from scratching a pencil?
@@dogphlap6749 what i mean is : does graphite is the same element of carbon that we use for writting. Sry for my english I am French.
@@ttkb9620Graphite sold in art stores for pencils is a mixture of pure graphite and clay that has been fired together at a high temperature, it is useless as a lubricant. Graphite sold as a dry lubricant has no clay, just pure platelets of carbon.
Looks interesting,were do you buy the aditives? I might give it a try.
Either Ebay or Aliexpress
Thanks for the reply,I'll see what i can find@@stevenleffanue
Hello and thanks for the really helpful and well researched videos. I have a question and hope you'll be kind enough to reply with some advice. Especially as it may help others too.
I have just emptied by slow cooker ready for a new batch of wax and PTFE and the candles that I've purchased say "25% plant based wax and 75% premium paraffin". Will these be suitable? The packaging also says they are vegan which I thought would be obvious. Surprised they aren't marked as gluten free too. 🙄
I also have access to bees wax, which is obviously not vegan but wondered how that would work.
TIA.
You can use plant based waxes with paraffin wax, but they may attract more dirt depending on their oil content. Plain paraffin wax is best.
This video doesn’t say to strip the oils/lube from the new chain?
Hello there, nice video. Where can I get ptfe, graphite, or tungsten power from Melbourne? Thanks
Aliexpress or Ebay
Would the Grease Converter Powder work on an old greasy chain, or will it only work for new chains?
It will work on the grease/oils but any dirt,etc will contaminate the mixture. Si best to use the three step chemical method.
@@stevenleffanue Maybe having the chain in a rolling boil of water with some agitation for a few minutes is enough to loosen up and remove any solid contaminants. Enough for the converter to do the remainder of the work. If it works, it would eliminate the harsh chemical process. (Thanks for the awesome content, you've converted myself and several others in our riding group!)
Micro contaminants from use are in the grease or oil, and boiling water will not remove the grease or oil.
all the grease has been removed from the chain ?? thanks !!!
Converted into a polymer.
I'm assuming water is added to hot wax to make the (fairy) bottle of drip on for long trips. What ratio of water is needed to keep it liquid?
It's not water.
It's not water. I believe it's called "naptha" or something like that. It works as a liquid suspension for the wax.
In the old method i think it was a ratio of 1/10 pfte when now its 1/20. So can a go to the 1/20 ratio in the old way too? I clean the new chain before use.
1:20 is for initial wax batch. Once the ptfe embeds itself into the metal a 1:80 or even 1:100 will maintain the low friction quality for rest of the chains life.
@@stevenleffanue Ok, thanks. Just bought my a new second hand slow cooker for 20€ and waiting for the pfte to arrive. Paraffine i can buy at a wine making shop for 6€/500gr. Greetings from Belgium.
Steve, coming back to this video what happens to the oil solidifier?
So if I wax for example with 2 chains at the same time, 600km is calculated on the total duration of the paraffin block, right?
Yes.
Where does the modified packing grease go after it’s been “converted”?
And it’s difficult for me to believe that the original 3-solvent new-chain cleaning method is equivalent to the new school grease modifier method. Either the 3-solvent method was overkill or the new method is insufficient.
The oil/grease gets converted into a polymer which is a semi-solid. It combines with the paraffin wax but you can't see it. I will be uploading highlights from my 4 month testing which will make it more understandable.
can you filter that wax with a coffee filter? I know it's cheap but still seems wasteful. Or is there any alternative use of the wax?
Tried it long time ago and it didn't work...can't remember why tho. Give it a go to see.
@@stevenleffanue Thank you for the reply. Greatly appreciate your work!
Steven, thanks again for this content. One question: i did not 100% get the use of the oil solidifier. Is it really necessary? It is not so common in germany and not easy to get. Cheers elmar
It replaces the initial clean process on a new chain....degreaser, etc. You can still do it the old way tho.
Where does the grease end up going, though?
Converts into a polymer
Any links to the oil solidifier powder? Have looked everywhere 😬
www.ebay.com.au/itm/265894111561?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=705-154756-20017-0&ssspo=Rb-c1uZOSbu&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=-h7k82GPSla&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY