Answered: Top 5 Chain Re-Waxing Questions & Race Day Tips For Cycling Maintenance!
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 10 มิ.ย. 2024
- Josh is diving into the most common chain waxing questions that have been in our channels recently. Whether you're preparing for a race day or simply maintaining your bike, our FAQ session covers everything from re-waxing techniques to handling those long/muddy race scenarios.
🔗 Featured Products:
• Ultimate Chain Stripper + Wax Prep: silca.cc/products/chain-strip...
• Ultimate Chain Waxing System: silca.cc/collections/chain-lu...
• Ultimate Brake & Drivetrain Cleaner: silca.cc/collections/clean/pr...
• Super Secret Drip Lube: silca.cc/collections/chain-lu...
• Synergetic Wet Lube: silca.cc/collections/chain-lu...
• Hot Wax X: silca.cc/collections/chain-lu...
• Essential Electric Kettle for Cyclists: amzn.to/3NuhWBR
Most Common Questions Covered:
1. How to re-wax a hot melt chain.
2. Chain Waxing strategies for long and/or muddy races.
3. Cleaning tips for muddy/greasy waxed chains post-race.
4. Melting times for the Wax Melter
5. Hot Wax X - from the tin to the Wax Melter
BONUS: Why the Wax Melter uses Celsius.
👕 Wear the Passion:
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Plus, check out our newest Poster design as spotted in the background - the MAPEI TEAM VAN: silca.cc/collections/merchand...
Whether you're an experienced cyclist or new to the sport, mastering the art of chain waxing can significantly enhance your bike’s performance and lifespan.
Remember to like, share, and subscribe for more cycling maintenance insights that empower you to take control of your bike’s performance! - กีฬา
Yes to metric system and celsius!
C isn't metric! Kelvin is the metric unit for temp.
@@ephboulder there's no "metric" unit for temperature, but it's one of the base SI units.
@@dasf89 Sortof - all the various equations are for K. In particular to cycling, the ideal gas law. PV=NRT. If you used C, that would imply a negative pressure in your tires and time you head out below freezing.
@@ephbouldersorry, I realized my comment was ambiguous. Of course I meant K is one of the base units, not C.
@@ephboulder Good to know, but I didn't say so either 😉
Believing in metric system - you are my man.
Love your videos!
All the very best for you from Germany ;)
I got a cheap stainless steel dog food bowl to use for dunking chains in boiling water. It is a completely therapeutic experience! Nothing better than pulling a brilliantly shining chain out of the drink and ready for a new wax application. The entire Silca waxing set up is insanely awesome. The Strip Chips are a total game changer. They make a very easy project completely mindless.
Unless you have Shimano 105 12 speed chains. They seem to eat dirt on the plates and never let it go again. Zero issues here with SRAM XX1 chains.
My tip; put a small magnet on top of the Chain Wax System, it hold quick links in a handy place.
The rewaxing process involves unlink/relink of the quick links and I'm not sure if I have to swap a new link every few weeks between the rewaxing. I'm about to have my first rewaxing session and just realized that the investment into quicklinks would be stupid high . How would you do this? THX
@@user-jj4sj9rf7x I use my quick link 3-4 times before replacing. It is officially a single-use item, however. Could use the drip wax instead
@@user-jj4sj9rf7xsome quick links are reuseable. Also, you shouldn't need to rewax a lot as long as the chains do not get wet. If it gets wet during your ride. Make sure to dry the chain with a cloth as soon as you get home to prevent rusting and if available put a little drip wax.
Buy a Connex link. No tool needed to use. Last the life of the chain. Buy an extra one and carry with you in tool kit for roadside repairs.
@user-jj4sj9rf7x Technically most quick links are 1 use only but in reality they can be used multiple times, just keep an eye on how Loose they get 👍
I love how you are embracing the metric system 🙌
Question about a rust: If I ride in the rain and the wax comes off ... and I don't get a chance to deal with the chain right away, I get some brown rust spots on the chain. How should I clean the chain to get it ready for the next waxing?
Love the content. What are some signs that the wax is wearing out while riding? Anything other than chain noise increases?
I’ve been hot waxing for 3 years now. I use molten speed wax. Use an antenna magnet when the wax is hot. You’d be amazed how much metal sticks to the magnet over time. I carry this process out periodically. It works !!
gonna try this, as i think my wax is quite contaminated after a year of use!
I just used the Silca chain waxing unit for the first time. Wow, really easy. One thing I am very impressed with is how uniformly waxed the chain is without big clumps of wax clinging to the chain, which I see with the stovetop method or with the drip wax. This chain is very smoothly waxed all over. Looks professional!
You’re a chain wax guru! Thank you for all you do to help all of us!!
how many times do you use the "one-time" chainlinks before swaping to new one?
Your timing is awesome...my buddies and I were just coming up with a list of questions and I think you answered most of them...Thanks Josh! One thing I did in aiding the rewarming of a wax puck in the wax hot tub was to cover it with a micro fiber cloth while I prepare the rest of the drive train. My garage was at 7C yesterday being in the Seattle region.
Swap back & forth between two chains (both started new at the same time). Makes it easy to maintain the one off the bike at your convenience.
I’m running a 3 chain rotation. It’s not much harder to clean and was several chains than just one and the rotation should slow drivetrain wear.
Thanks useful advice. Had noticed my wax has recently started bonding better and wearing (shifting) for a lot longer. This appears to be when I started adding a few mls of chain stripper to each boiling water cleaning. I've also increased the wax melt temperature to 120C. Nb I ride in dusty gravel conditions, already done more than 4000km on each of the current sram chains that were carefully cleaned to remove factory grease.
Old coffee can with boiled water, then simple green with some rubbing alcohol , swirl around and use a stiff brush then re-wax and bobs your uncle. Cheap, simple and long lasting and no harsh chemicals or all this stuff buy.
All good except that Simple Green is a major risk for hydrogen embrittlement and cracking of the metal in the chain. Swap that for something else and that method will work great.
Thank you for using the metric system!
Josh, I used Chain Stripper on two new chains, amazing! 🙏Thanks for the suggestion to recycle used liquid. Was able to recycle although my coffee filters were a pain. What brand of coffee filter do you use?
What an excellent video……
Thanks for the info on melt time. Think my wax took 1 hour on 75 to melt fully.
Hello Josh, thank you for the informative content and it's fantastic to see some real science applied to the religion that is chain lube. I realize you've covered all the topics in depth in other videos, but I'd love to see a single video (or document) that describes the entire life cycle of the chain waxing process starting from factory fresh, re-layering, mild clean, hot water clean, chain stripping, reset and then starting all over. My apologies if you already released such a video.
I'm a believer. My chain is always clean. It's much faster. It takes way less time than constantly cleaning and lubing
Thank you very much for your product - SILCA SECRET CHAIN BLEND - HOT MELT WAX. I use it in Russia (Moscow). It’s a pity that it’s difficult for me to buy your CHAIN WAXING SYSTEM and STRIPCHIP due to restrictions on payment and delivery. Your videos helped me use Silca products.
This advice is helpful but overly complex. For example, on point (1), you can literally just put the chain on your normal hanger (for subsequent submersion in wax) and pour a few rounds of boiling water over top of it (from kettle spout) from top to bottom as it hangs from your hand over the sink. The dirty wax and grit will wash right off / out. Don't need other containers or other expensive solvents. Even after a really dirty ride. Don't over complicate it.
Important correction: 100º F was actually supposed to be the body temperature of a COW, not a human….otherwise, great video, Josh! :)
Thanks for the info! I'm a fan of the honesty and transparency in your videos. Quick question. If I accidentally used a strip chip on a completely clean chain free of any oils/lubes and heated the wax to 125C, is that melted strip chip now degraded or will that melted strip chip still be good to use with a new chain containing factory lube? Thanks!
If you're doing a new chain relatively soon, you are probably fine, but if you have numerous re-waxings in between you might need more, as the mass of ingredients in the StripChip is calibrated to one factory greased chain, so if you do say 10 rewaxings, the mass of strip chip will diminish as some is being removed from the pot with each waxing (I hope I've made that make sense!!)
Yes that makes sense. Thanks for the reply!@@SILCAVelo
If you could choose between waxing a new chain with either a stripchip or with the chain stripper, what would you do? I have both and don't know which method to use. (Or maybe both in some partial form is even better?)
Great stuff, actually switching from my instapot and candy thermometer to one of these for ease of use, turn it on and set it for 75 and walk away…my instapot is pretty much super hot or over hot or too cool.
I'm pretty sure it should be possible to get better pid values or even hardcode the system tô be 100% until very close to the desired temperature, i would love to do it if possible
Thanks for the video! If the used waxed chain has seen since rain or had road debris, would the Silca Gear Wipes clean it enough to be cleaned and ready for rewaxing? Thanks!
Silca is suck a wholesome bunch. ❤
Question: how much should I clean my cassette & chainring before adding a waxed chain??
Just made the Slica wax switch & started out on my gravel bike w/ about 125 miles on drivetrain (chain/cassette/chainring w/ dry lube). Cleaned chain w/ stripper 2x, but noticed after about 50-60 miles (and 3 SS drip post ride applications) that chain & chaining still kind of dirty when I wipe w/ microfiber cloth.
Did I not clean enough or should I pull chain & try to degrease cassette & chainring more??
Thanks! Love your stuff & miss living in Indy!
Great video! What is the recommended mileage for re-waxing the chain? (Hot and/or drip) Let's assume it was used on an XC MTB in only dry conditions.
I have the same question. What are the indicators, appart from sound and feel. I’ve done 200km on my 1st Hot Wax on my super clean Campy Ekar chain. This was mostly road, dusty post winter conditions. Feels like I could get an other 100km but not much more.
Please advise 🙏🏻?
If I ask nicely could I get a unit set to use degrees Rankine?
Just taking an opportunity to add my 2c on quick links. I have found that not hot waxing works best…but, I will clean the link and liberally apply drip wax to make the install easier and fill any voids when the wax is push out of the joining links. Thoughts?
Agree, our recommendation is to clean the quick link but not wax, it makes reassembly much easier and there is no degradation in performance as all metal/metal interfaces end up coated in wax.
Thanks for your videos! They are simply great 👍🏼
I have a question about how much wax need to be filled in the heater and do I only need to fill up with some wax granulat from time to time or need the used wax be completely changed for new wax after xx chains waxed?
Thanks for your response and best regards from Germany ✌🏼
You will want a minimum of 300gm of wax to start and then can just keep adding new wax once the level gets low enough that it doesn't fully cover the chain. No need to ever change out or replace the wax in the pot unless it somehow gets contaminated or there is some other issue. In general you should get ~50 waxings from one 500gm bag of wax.
@@SILCAVelo Thanks 🙏🏼
Hi, i was wondering if you could give information about how long a waxed chain should be able to last between waxing when used solely for indoor riding?
Secondly, if I only use the drip on wax - 2 applications before using the chain, when I need to re-wax, what cleaning process should I use? Thanks!
How offer should you rewax the chain ?
Zfc does not recommend KMC chains for immersive waxing. What is Silca's stand on this?
The black DLC coating from KMC is problematic for wax and results in very short lifespan of the wax (and other lubricants as well). The chrome and TiN (gold) coatings from them seem to do fine with wax, though you are likely to find better results with a DuraAce 11 or 12 speed chain in terms of both friction and wax longevity per application.
Hi Josh, I'm glad that you favour the Celsius/Centigrade scale. I have asked this before, and I would like to ask again. For those of us who live in other parts of the world, where the AC voltage from the wall is 230Vac, will there be an iteration of the heating vessel in the Chain Waxing System that will be able to cope with the different AC voltage? I would rather not have to go through the palaver of a separate step-up transformer as it can introduce its own challenges. Thank you. Sek Chuan from Singapore.
Thanks Sek Chuan! Yes, we currently have UK plug variants in the UK and are working on getting some to our Asian distributors as you use the same plug and AC voltage. This will take another month or so, but we hope to have all of Asia taken care of very soon! Thanks for your patience!
This might be the first time I’ve heard Smegma referenced in a technical production.
Being new to your wax system and wax chain in general, how can you tell it's time to re wax? Im going by audible cues, but it's still hard to tell. I rode for about 100 miles on the road, over a few days , it sounded like it was getting louder, so I wanted to try the super secret drip mid life application, I did that properly, rode 20 miles and its right back to sounding like it needs to be re waxed. It's just hard to tell. I wonder if there is a weight component weigh a newly waxed chain after 20 miles , then weigh at 100 or 120 miles ? it would obviously only be a few grams if any. Im very familiar to my old lube and how it gets when its time, but the wax is hard to tell.
Same question here!
Cues are purely audible.. it will start to get a bit louder like 'tick-tick' and will then get a bit louder. For most road riding this is 250-300km for hot melt. At that point you can re-hot wax or add SuperSecret Drip, remember that SS Drip needs 8-12 hours to fully cure, so we recommend just adding it after you ride so it's ready for the next day. Both waxes experience a phenomenon known as Layering Up which is that it takes 2-3 initial applications and riding cycles for the WS2 additives to fully embed in the metal of the chain which is where the big benefits really come. You can read about layering up here: th-cam.com/video/LBcowq02pXw/w-d-xo.htmlsi=T12Lw2lZalpiNu-S
Also, was doesn't hide noise like other lubes, so it can be working quite well but sounding worse than a wet lube as the wet lube will hide breakdown much, much better. The ZFC data tell us a lot about this and you can see that data here: th-cam.com/video/Xu_Q0cqoKeY/w-d-xo.htmlsi=f-iSejaR7LHCDf06
Would love if you sell a nice kit to clean chains, one that does not require owning a dedicated area in a garage (some don’t have that in a dense urban area).
Hello. I was wondering can you put 2 new chains and 2 strip chips in one go to wax and clean both chains? Or I should do it one by one? Thanks
I've been using a neodymium magnet to get the faris particles out of the hot wax after I wax my chains. Is doing this ok or could it be removing some the tungsten disulfide from the wax?
I just got the system and waxed my first chain, it was great. But now I have no idea if I should be poking the wax out of the inside of the holes that are drilled into the pins in the rollers or if I should leave it all in there.
I switched to your wax a few thousand miles ago and absolutely love it. I used to use a crappy crock pot, but just got your beautiful wax pot. My question is if I should, after boiling my chain to clean it (Several times to get all the old wax out) bring the wax above 100 so that any water trapped in the innards of the chain boil off? (Then reducing back to 75) Also, I start with the fresh hot wax dip, and then, every 150 miles +-, use a microfiber cloth to wipe off dirt from the chain before applying your drip wax. I clean and reapply hot wax every 1000 miles. Is this too long an interval or does this seem reasonable (I avoid riding in the rain). Thank you for all you guys do.
You can absolutely boil the water out by bringing the temp over 100, just be sure to put the chain in first and then raise the temp. If you put the wet chain into very hot wax you will get some splatter and flash boiling which could be dangerous. Your 1000 mile hot wax with 150mile drip wax top off is a great strategy!
I've been using this method, I just set the temp to 105c, let the water boil off, set to 75c and pull once it reached that temp.
Very helpful insights 👍🏻, how fantastic is Celcius anyway 😂😂
Too much faff for me so thanks for creating synergetic! And on unbound, would it not be better to use synergetic or synerg-e from the start and not worry about a mid ride top up after the wax gets too friction-y, as it’s bound to do taking in to account the course conditions?
Even in wet conditions you still get the first couple of hundred km a clean well working chain. It's only when the wax is gone you need to relube and drip wax will not work. With the remaining wax on the outside of the chain the oil based lube will not stick as well and your chain stays cleaner as if you start oiled from the beginning. This is at least my experience in road conditions.
Can i strip chip 5 chains in one day? I have 2 chains for gravel, 2 chains for road and one chain for indoor bike
Or it will be to much for hot melt wax ?
Excellent video as usual. Just one query - I have been melting my wax to 92°C based on advice from previous videos (not yours of course). It sounds as if that is damaging to the wax and I should be going only up to 75°. Is that correct?
Some wax brands are only able to handle up to 95C and can break down above that, I believe MoltenSpeed has this limitation, and others might as well. SILCA waxes are safe up to 130C, so the optimal temp to pull the chain is 75C, but the waxing process can be done hotter, including use of the StripChip.
Hi Josh! I wanted to start out by thanking you so much for your super helpful videos on chain care and related products. As someone who is just starting out with cycling, your videos have been invaluable in teaching me the most important things to know.
I did find some advice on the internet warning against using boiling water to strip wax lube, and I was curious to know your thoughts about it. Specifically, "While the chain itself is metal, excessive heat can damage heat-treated surfaces or coatings applied to some modern bike chains for better wear resistance and corrosion protection. Boiling water can potentially reach temperatures high enough to compromise these treatments. Additionally, your chain contains sealed parts with grease or oil for lubrication. Boiling water could potentially melt these lubricants, reducing their effectiveness and increasing wear within the chain rollers and pins. Finally, extreme heat can cause slight warping of the chain links, especially over time with repeated exposure. This warping could lead to improper chain engagement with the cassette and chainrings, affecting shifting performance and potentially causing premature wear."
You seem to be a guy who really knows his stuff when it comes to chain care, so I'd be very interested in knowing what you think of this advice. Thank you!
Oh wow.. not sure where all of that info comes from, but it's way off! Boiling water can only ever reach 100C (plus or minus a few depending on altitude) which isn't hot enough to damage any steel or surface coating used on steel alloys used in bicycle chains. Most of the metal coatings have application temperatures in the 300-500C range, and the base metal itself has melting point of 1300C+. It certainly will soften grease or oil inside the chain but that's what you want, as the idea is to flush everything inside the chain out so that you can replace it with the wax. The only risk to the boiling water technique is that you need to shake as much water out of the chain as possible before putting it in the wax, and you want to put it in wax at less than 100C so you don't cause it to flash boil which can splatter wax all over the place.
@@SILCAVelo Awesome. I thought it sounded like baloney but didn't have the knowledge to back up my suspicion. I figured you would, and I was right. Thank you so much for the quick and informative response!
How do i clean my bike with a waxed chain? Leave the chain on or take it off? And rewax everytime my bike get rinsed with water?
I use the Silca bio degreaser on a Silca microfiber towel to wipe down the chain after an off-road ride and then use Silca super secret drip wax as needed. I assume the Silca degreaser doesn't remove the wax?
Correct, our products are all formulated to work together, and your bio degreaser will do a great job of removing dirt and oil without harming the wax!
How about using alcohol or acetone after the boiling water to displace the residual water in the chain and allow faster drying prior to rewaxing?
I'm a little confused. If existing chains have been degreased using Silca Chain Stripper and then always waxed using a Crock-Pot + Silca Secret Chain Blend Wax method, do we need to add StripChip if we replace the Crock Pot with the new Silca Wax Pot or can we just add the Silca Secret Chain Blend to the new Silca Wax pot and run a standard wax bath at 75c without a StripChip ?
I've got a question. How long can or should I use a waxed chain indoors? Usually it's something like 300km outdoors, give or take, but how long can one go indoors?
For me, I've been going 200mi and then applying SS Drip Lube on a dedicated indoor trainer bike. After 3-4 reapplications I hotwax again. Now that I have the new Silca waxpot I'll likely just hotwax more frequently instead of SS Drip Lube given it's convenience factor. I picked the maintenance intervals as it was easier to track when looking at Strava mileage. I'm using two chains and swap them every 1000mi to stretch out the hotwax interval further and even out the component wear (I wait until both chains are ready for hotwax). I have over 9500mi+ combined on the two chains and am not even close to wearing them out. I'm currently measuring 0.15 to 0.20mm of chain stretch and the cassette and chainrings remain pristine. Note that wax on the exterior of the chain flakes off onto the floor below the trainer bike and would make a mess on a carpet. My indoor setup is on concrete in the garage so not a problem.
hello, great video. just a few quick questions: I've been using your hot wax for several months now, I'm happy with it but I find the chain quite noisy. I use wax on my road bike in dry weather, and I rewax (hot wax) the chain every 300/350km. Moreover, after several kilometers, I found that there was a lot of oilskin residue on the cassette sprockets, black lovers, is it really necessary to clean them? Furthermore, I also find the transmission "less fluid" than with Classic lubricant as some of my friends use, even though your wax is supposed to have less rolling resistance, any explanations? last question, I use a crockpot without a thermostat, so do you advise me to wait for the wax to cool a little (until a mini skin appears on top) before removing the chain?
Thank you in advance for your answer! Have a good day
Ferd
A waxed chain will always be louder. If you want a quiet drivetrain you need to use oil. The noise comes from the friction/contact between the chain and the cassette and sprocket. Since wax is only helping on the inside your chain runs "dry" on all those components. Oil covers everything so it dampens the noise, but it becomes a big mess after a while and dirt sticks to it.
Josh, when dewaxing a dirty chain with boiling water, would you use some kind of soap to capture the dirt "better"?
No, the wax will float to the top and bring the dirt with it, and you can then just pour it out.. not need for any soap or anything like that!
Any advice for Campagnolo Record hollow pin chains (11sp) which tend to get their hollow pins jammed full of wax? (and please don't say use Shimano )
Sorry if this was mentioned somewhere - how long do I leave the chain in the wax when re-waxing? 10min or 20min (as was the total time with the strip chip) but with just 75° the whole time? Thanks - awesome stuff, awesome videos!!
I have success with just 5 mins max but agitate a little at each end of this to try and get the wax to permeate as deeply as possible.
@@stephencharles6932 great, thanks!
I've seen a lot of people do a denatured alcohol dip after the water rinse to drive out as much moisture as possible. Is there any reason not to do this?
Good question, I use the hairdryer to pretty much fully dry, being careful as it gets hot!
what do you think about rinsing the chain in isopropyl alcohol after boiling it to help with the water removal
That works well, acetone works, compressed air, hairdryer, swinging your arm in a circle.. anything to drive out the bulk of the water before putting it in the wax, also be sure to only put a damp chain into wax at 75 and then turn the temperature up.. putting it in 100C or hotter wax can cause a flash boil which will splatter wax everywhere and could be dangerous.
Question: What is the best method to keep the chain waxed over the period of 1 week of touring with around 1000km? Using only your Super Secret Chain Coating or changing the chain half way with the use of Super Secret Chain Coating?
I would start with a hot waxed chain and then wipe it down each night with microfiber and apply a little SuperSecret to it. This will keep it 'topped off' for the whole distance, and applying after your ride will give it time to cure overnight. Multiple chains is also an option, but definitely takes up space and adds weight and you'll still want to carry some SuperSecret.
@@SILCAVelo Thanks for that quick answer!
I will start with fresh hot waxed chain and apply super secret every evening.
Can you recommend a pot that will fit a recumbent chain (typically 2.5 chains long)? As it doesn't look like this pot is big enough.
You will need an InstantPot or CrockPot of at least 3Qt/2.75L to hold that much chain and wax.
Hi, if I've a waxed chain that I need top off with Synergetic at a long event can you continue with Synergetic for subsequent lubes? What I mean is is clean and use Synergetic for the next expected wet ride. Will the residual wax affect the Synergetic?
Synergetic will act like a solvent on the wax causing it to soften and release from the metal of the chain, but the performance will not be diminished. If you put Synergetic over wax and then want to keep using Synergetic, you can clean the chain with SILCA brake and drivetrain cleaner, rinse with water, and then reapply Synergetic.
Hello, i don't have a microfiber towel but i have your gear wipes, is it similar? Thanks!
Those will work as well, maybe better, we just want to make sure that we're giving people options that aren't all SILCA products!!
Hi. Is rewaxing with drip wax on the bike after a wet / muddy ride enough for corrosion protection? Of course after a good cleaning. I'm interested in waxing but I don't want to take my chain of and I ride my MTB frequently in wet and muddy conditions. Thanks in advance
taking chain of is really easy after the first two times of getting used to. Yes corrosion protection will stay for a while, however some chains catch rust quite fast, 105 and kmc chains for example.
What's the problem with just washing the chain with some liquid detergent and then re-wax?
Silca please, we need information on how to clean the rest of the drivetrain. I do well understand how to clean the chain even after using synergetic on long rides or races but what about the cassette or the chainring? How important is it to make them as immaculately clean as the chain and how to go about cleaning them? There is no information out there, and I as a customer of yours have to source Reddit etc. to get info on how to prepare not only the chain but the whole rest for waxing. Not really straight forward
We recommend using SILCA brake and drivetrain cleaner. If it's really nasty you might also need to use a soft brush on the cogs and rings, but Brake and Drivetrain is super powerful and will lift of most any and all oils, greases, and dirts, but will not affect waxes.
@ 9:40, it's showing that tha chainring is hitting the frame with some scratch markers 😮
That's a different problem 😊
I've had some waxed chains get rusty after some bikepacking near the coast and in the winter salt.
I've then boiling-water shaken it, but residual rust is still on. Can I rewax this? As I don't want to go near degreaser to remove the existing rust as I assume that'll ruin future rewaxing
I’m no expert, but I would think you could bathe your chain in EvapoRust (available on line or in most hardware stores) overnight, and then rinse in water. That should get rid of any rust.
After you use the wax and a chip strip, how many times can you use the wax again? Do i need a chip strip each time? Just got a unit.
You only need StripChip with factory new chains.. after that you can just keep re-dipping in the same wax.
There's no removable pot insert. How would you change old wax?
As somebody who lives in the "real world", a lot of waxing prior to the latest iteration of your offerings was still too much work for great majority of people. There was just too much messing around and too many opportunities for things to go wrong. The "strip chip" + PID "hot pot" pretty much made it so waxing is something, I am willing to help others do/learn since effort required is so low. I tell people to buy kit + 2 new chains and they are comfortable with the process very quickly. As a triathlete, spending ~$150-$200 to never have to worry about chain replacements, cassette replacements, or a crank replacement for the next 2+ years is nothing short of a miracle and time saver. Don't get me wrong, you put in the time to get waxing this far and accessible....glad you did it.
That PID hot pot is pure overkill. Been doing it with a regular slow cooker/crokpot for a long time now with zero issues.
@@irfuel I know people who drive without seatbelts too....they aren't dead yet....zero issues. Thus, everyone should drive without seatbelts...am I right?
Hint: Neighbor had destroyed his wax with his crockpot because he got distracted. Spent the better part of a week de-waxing, and cleaning his chain as a result. ;)
This is the point of the PID pot....mistake minimization.
@@trepidati0n533 Distracted? I leave that thing on for 8 hours, it never goes above 90C. That's the entire idea of a slow cooker. You don't boil anything in that thing.
@@trepidati0n533 and nobody spends "the better part of a week" de-waxing and cleaning a chain. That's just nonsense.
Can you use the wax that has a stripchip melted in?
Yes, you just keep using the wax after using the StripChip.. the StripChip converts the chain grease into wax, so you can just keep waxing as normal.
Real question we have is why it's not called a crocpotinator 4000.
and can we do Nachos and Queso in it?
Will Silca’s wax get damaged if you overheat it? (I am using an instapot doesn’t show temperature afaik)
It can damage if heated above 140C. If overheated it will take on a brown/yellow color when it cools. If you IntantPot has a sous vide function, that uses the same PID logic as the SILCA wax melter and is very accurate, if not, then either use the SlowCook Low setting, or if using StripChip you can use slowcook High, but use a candy thermometer or similar to monitor the wax temperature to ensure it stays between 120C and 125C the whole time.
Thoughts on pouring boiling water into an old stainless vacuum insulated water bottle, then shaking in there?
That will work great!
If I’m doing a few events similar to unbound, would it be better to just have a second chain dedicated to those events and use wet lube?
If you have an aid station where you can leave stuff, bring an extra waxed chain or two and swap as necessary. Swapping a chain can actually be quicker than re-lubing. Or just do what Josh recommends and apply a wet lube on top of the waxed chain--but be prepared to clean the drivetrain at the end, including fully re-prepping the chain for fresh hot wax. If it's going to be a really wet race, then just using a wet lube from the beginning might be the best bet.
Yes, if swapping chains is an option, that's the best option! We have quite a few people doing transcontinental and long FKT type things who just swap chains.
What about fully cleaning the cassette? After several applications of super secret drip wax the cassette has wax build up…
I use boiling water and we have a lot of lime scale in our water do you think it will cause wear?
I would definitely used filtered or the like if that's the case where you live.
Does the strip chip have a shelf life?
Nope, lasts forever, or until the zombie apocalypse ;-)
@@SILCAVelo Even then.... it should outlast us all! 😅🧟
so once we've hot waxed a chain... we don't ever need to get into ultrasonic cleaners again? .... boil water or striper if it saw rain/ mud and then re wax.
when do you use the drip wax vs re hotwax?
Haha on Imperial versus Metric units. Our units are so crazy and as you said, make no sense. I waxed my first chain yesterday and it went really well - the only negative I had was I had too many loops of chain and when I put the chain int eh wax, the loop needed to be held up above the wax. The chain is really stiff after waxing and takes a lot to make it flex. Thanks for an awesome system
JUST USE AN OLD PLASTIC COLENDER/STRAINER TO SHAKE CHAIN AS POORING BOILING WATER ,TOWEL DRY AND HANG FOR 30 MIN ,THEN REWAX
I purchased a new Ultegra chain a couple of weeks ago, fully degreased and immersed in Silca secret wax.
After the first 50 mile ride, the chain links are still relatively stiff compared to a drip wax. I broke the chain in as much as I could prior to fitting and l thought after 50 miles it would be fully flexible but it's not. Is this normal?
New 12 speed Shimano chains will take a bit longer to break in than others, but should be good after 50 miles? Maybe try waxing a little hotter and pulling the chain at the higher temp, this will leave it a bit more flexible after waxing. After 3-4 waxing/riding cycles, the metal will be fully embedded with WS2 and things will loosen up.
Thanks for the response. It is an 11 speed chain, I'll have another go at more elevated temperature and remove earlier as advised.
On a used Campy Ekar chain, approx 1000km. I cleaned-striped it and treated it with Hot wax. I found that after 100km I felt it was nice and supple as per Petrol based wet lube.
Be advised that the Campy Ekar new can feel very stiff, especially on the extreme big cog for a good 500km.
Why are all silca products so high priced?
Can I run hot boiling water over the chain while it is on the bike? :)
Similar to a chain lbe would be applied drop over the links
Do you sell road schmeg?
You have to make your own..
bring back the t-shirts to the shop :(
Once I add the strip chip and do the new chain method at 125 degrees, when it’s time to re-wax the chain do I need to reheat the wax to 125 again because there is still dissolved Strip Chip in there? Or can I keep it at 75 degrees for subsequent waxing?
75 for subsequent waxings, the 125 is only necessary to convert the grease to wax the first time.
Hi, what about the 2nd question… how to figure its time to top up the Hot Wax and/or Super Secret drip wax ??
I love this content! Am a happy user since recently, used the Strip Chip for some factory new chains and the chain stripper for some of the used chains (that only had seen less than 300-400 miles). Both methods work great!
For the chain waxing system I have two little tweaks:
1) I use an old spoke to prevent the cable handle of the chain cable to fall into the wax ... don't know how the one in the video always stands straight :-) mine sunk into the wax nicely.
2) I throw a small but strong magnet into the used chain stripper solution and let it stand overnight before pouring it through the coffee filter. That way the filter does not get stuck with dirt and the solution runs through easier.
You'll be amazed what sticks to the magnet: an utterly black, ultra fine sediment/smear that stains your fingers like ... chain gunk concentrate. This came out of the used chains that I had cleaned (i) with bike wash before then (ii) cleaned the chains with a chain cleaner brushing machine with de-greaser (water based), then (iii) threw the chains in the (water-based) chain de-greaser in a glass pot and shaking them, (iv) rinsing them several times with hot water and only then throwing them into Chain stripper. That stuff is REALLY powerful.
Can you wax up to three chains at the time in the Silca wax pot?
No, it's really for a single chain, you can fit 2 if you are careful but not 3.
Stupid question but, Could you wax the gears on the freewheel?
Fahrenheit catching strays!!
I’m at the start of all this and I’d like to share this: all the processes waxing a chain aside, make sure cassette and chainset are really clean before you put your nice, clean chain back on. In my case, I was using Super Secret instead of hot wax, but the issue is the same. Save yourself some extra work.
I thought I’d done a thorough clean but the chain was black before I applied my second SS application. I’d been using a really nasty wet lube. I had to re-strip the (new) chain, pull and clean the cassette and chain rings with some general degreaser followed by a wipe with a little Chain Stripper on a microfiber cloth. It was wasted time and materials. Don’t be like me.
Should start with an ultrasonic cleaner
If you don't have access to boiling water? huh?
Why not a heated ultra-sonic bath? They cost about $50.
Pleaseeeeeeeeee sell your chain cable coupler separately🙏🙏🙏🙏😁
Friction labs's initial tests said that wax didn't work well with KMC chains because of their special coating. Have you guys tested any of your products with KMC chains and does anything get you a little more longevity with a waxed KMC chain?
The problem is really only with the black DLC coated KMC chains. This coating is very slick and will not hold onto the wax leading to very short single application life expectancy. Other KMC chains with the gold TiN or silver chrome treatments are fine to use with wax. We've also recently had a few data points showing that the rainbow PVD coatings that are popular now can cut the lubricant life in half for both wax and oil, but are still in testing and will publish that once it's more definitive.
I’m sure there is a video out there. Why not use the factory lubricant for a break in period and THEN do the Silca process?
Please add a lavalier mic, audio is so quiet and i am missing all the good info