Cordless Electric Drill Speed Control - Stripdown
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How does the speed control trigger work on a cordless electric drill? Is it full of springs and bits of metal that fly everywhere when you take it apart?
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I don’t like to consider myself defeatist but, as soon as a spring has come out, I accept it’s never going back together in the same way that it came apart! Love your content, Julian!
There are two schools of thought here… A) Do the work on a carpeted floor so that pieces that go flying don’t roll away. B) Do the work on a hard floor so that you can hear where they fall when they land 15 feet away.
Honestly I didn't think you would get it back together, Julian. All those bits and pieces. Glad you persisted and got it done!
The switch has several contacts: 1.)The motor short-circuit contact opens, which is used for Motorbraking 2.) Light goes on + Electronics goes on, the Motorspeed depends on the variable resistor value. (Here with several discrete resistors instead of a linear potentiometer, as seen in older assemblies) 3.) B- contacts directly to the Motor, bridging the Mosfet.
In older assemblies there was a simple NE555 chip doing the PWM. For higher battery voltages they used a resistor and a 12V zener diode to power it. (Seen in an early 24V NiCd drill.)
Well done getting it back together without springs disappearing to all corners of the workshop!
AvE would be proud but at 4:00 he would have done something like tasting it to figure out the plastic shell makeup. 🤣
I'm sure 'The Post Apocalyptic Inventor' has done a couple of speed controller teardowns, both mosfet and older types,
Probably on one of his powertool restoration videos
It's astounding how many times I search something in google, and end up at one of your videos. Often its for the (almost) exact same part - literally holding an aldi brand drill that I chopped the power end off to use to modify a cordless stick vacuum cleaner, and started thinking about how the motor could be controlled by such a tiny switch
me: No schematic?
BigClive: Hold my carbonated wine...
I'm pretty impressed by that switch module. A lot of time would have gone into its design. It is likely a "generic" controller that is used in a lot of brands and models but seems to work well for a brushed motor.
My BIL asked me to fix his corded drill's speed control. He gave me the drill and a baggie of loose contacts, springs, screws and clips. To his amazement, I managed to reassemble it in a few minutes. Not surprisingly, the circuit was a phase control triac dimmer with a variable resistor for the speed control.
Hi, Julian..I took one apart some weeks ago. Same manufacturer but out of a Lidl machine. As far as i can tell, all the slider conatcts are for speed control, LED light, motor brake and "full on"...
WoooW , Really well done , I can’t believe you you put that switch back together 👍👍👍👍
Wow I'm impressed learned something about patience and slow and steady
I am niether astonished nor amazed. We have come to expect this of you, Julian. Great job getting that nightmare back together!!
This video reminds me of when Alan Partridge was bored and dismantled his Corby Trouser Press!
That IC is a GS069 rotational velocity controller. You can find it on Ali express real cheap. My Black and Decker cordless had a problem with the switch. It was not getting PWM to the mosfet gates. I was able to make it run by shorting the Drain to Source on the mosfets (it has 2 parallel mosfets). To my surprise the switch contained a 555 timer that created the PWM. I replaced the 555 and now it works.
Kind of like a clean language British AvE that actually put the tool back together
I blew the mosfet on my Bosch 24 volter. Construction of the switch from memory looks pretty similar, only thing was when I replaced the mosfet I found I lost the variable speed control, it was just off or full blast on. Meh! It was going to the tip otherwise so for me that was a win. As you have shown, rebuilding these is a nightmare of a fiddle. The mosfet I took out had signs of spectacular and brutal explosive failure, which delighted the sadist in me.
what a Great Video. No magic Smoke released and no springs lost..
Thanks for your time and effort to find out how the word controller is assembly. I wondered how they work to adapt one in my very old drills. Loved your work.
Impressive! Humpty Dumpty called and needs your help.
Wow! Congratulations, indeed, on the re-assembly, Julian!
It's funny because I have a cheap 12v Tacklife drill that has a similar top assembly as this guy. I've been meaning to take it apart and convert it to ryobi 18v, but couldn't figure out how to open it up. It turns out, there are 2 extra screws underneath a thin plastic plate just behind the drill clutch. This thing was not designed to be opened, as the last step from the factory would be to have clipped it into place.
Anyways, I broke that plate off and accessed the motor, it turns out, this cheap 12v drill has an rs550s motor, which has a range of 12-20 volts, so no voltage conversion necessary! Thanks for the video inspiring me to actually get on this.
I remember this was my first poor mans RC car ESC. Servo was pressing on that button and I had proportional speed controller. No reverse tho..
Wow - must have been a powerful servo.
Wouldn't necessarily need the spring you push against as the servo could return back to home
You need to check out AvE's videos for drill/powertool teardowns where he compares throttle implementations.
Give over.
I love your propelling pencil with the transparent nib.
Great video! You should probably see what's going on with an oscilloscope.
Nice job on the reconstruction. I was thinking hall effect sensor, I was quite surprised by discreet connections on the board, great teardown.
Definitely takes a steady hand to put something like that back together again
I'm glad I came across this video I was just about to tear up one of my drills thanks for doing the honors for us
AVE has done many teardown videos on cordless drills and other cordless tools.
His channel: th-cam.com/users/arduinoversusevil2025videos
Ah, something else I didn't know I wanted to know about. 🙂
Great video
Thanks, now I know that probably I am able to repair my Parkside cordless hammer drill. I was afraid that it is glued by epoxy resin or similar thing, but this video give me hope that reality is opposite and I can make an attempt of repair.
healing bench achieved!!!
Reassembly of that nightmare contraption is conclusive proof that Julian is an alien with SIX hands ( and oversize brain )
Nice job on the re-build. I thought it would be some sort of wire-wound variable resistor. But I suppose that's ancient tech.
Rather than holding the work piece with a finger, I clamped it together with a small quick clamp with rubber jaws. One jaw sat on the mosfet heatsink and the other on the back of the enclosure. Then I used soldering helping hands to hold the work piece to the bench so I could solder.
Very helpfull,you let me understand some issues with my AEG trigger.Very pleased
Marco Reps and GREAT Scott !!!
I thought the brushless drills would have a much more complicated setup than the brushed drills. But after seeing this I’m going to have to say this was more complicated than expected.
I was hoping it was a thyristor chopper circuit and not a mosfet - old school motor control. :) Well done on getting the mechanicals back together, it would be in my 'box of bits that might be useful but never will"
All the king's horses and all the king's men.
Couldn't put Julian's Drill back together again.
"....But Julian could!" ....doesn't scan very well now, though...lol!
Well done 👍🏻you are the best
Great work getting that ESC back together, I'd have quit as soon as the reverser wipers and springs popped out. I stalled my Dremel, heard a pop and it only has full on and off since. I won't be opening it up!
What else has he to do?
@@THYROTRON Fix his wife's vacuum cleaners!...lol!
Hi, Julian!! Hope you are having a great day! Thank You for this tear down. Hope you have more sunshine where you are than we have here in "New" England. It may be new but not improved!! ;-) Just kidding. Spring is right around the corner!
Love these drill machines they sounds cool. 👍
Thats was a magnifecent wanderfull job! Thank you, it was so usefull!
I was only interested in the first part of the video, but I had to watch until the end to see if you got it back together. I understood the first bit, but I have no idea how you managed to get all those springs and bits back together. You want an OBE just for that.
That's a lot of stuff in there for £15 ! If it lasts >1 year, that's a very good deal I think.
thanks for the explrotive work.
I had 2 of these and the motors are rubbish 5mm shaft 775 motor went on ebay brought a motor £10 and replaced the motor very good drills now 069B is speed controller chip well done getting that back together
@Schwalbe262 Mabuchi motor RS 775 WC 9013 6V - 18V about £5.50 you will have to shorten the shaft about 4mm off the end
The original motor windings melt after short use
Thank you for posting this. I just bought a new drill and was wondering whether the sudden leap of speed at full throttle was a defect. My 15 year old Skil cordless drill had a fully progressive throttle from zero to full, but my brand new Trotec 12V behaves like a more extreme version of yours, where the trigger is progressive from zero up to about 50% throttle, then suddenly jumps to 100% throttle with no intermediate setting in between.
Impressive work, sir!
Congratulations!!!
Holy crap, I dropped my drill from 10 ft up the ladder today and it was giving me issues. It was a Harbor Freight Warrior drill and it looks like its 90 to 95% a copy of this drill in the video.
Reminiscent of an 8 year old me taking the valves out of the family wireless back in the '60s, just the voltage and jeopardy level were a lot higher.
Well done Julian ... modern tools are a nightmare to rebuild. At least you didn’t need to chuck it a bucket like AVE 😀
I've taken one of these apart and the one I (14.8v) have is far simpler and uses a 555 timer (surface mount type) and same pcb slide system to drive a mosfet - i ran more than 24v into the drill and i killed the 555 just need to replace that and the mosfet as that died as well
Good work. 👍
You can hear the PWM modulation on that motor coils when operate.
Any idea what kind of MOSFET is in the trigger I'd like to replace the blown one I have?
Great video. Thank you.
AvE does some good teardown and reviews of tools of all descriptions, including ripping the things apart at times to get to their innards. Has a whole BOLTR Bored Of Lame Tool Reviews, where he does such things, they are skookum. Even covers the speed controller, thingums in his virjayos. For drills AvE BOLTR drills, on security bar.
Big Clive also does teardowns and explanations of a whole myriad of electronics, think he did one on how wiping contacts work on electronic micrometers/callipers, showing how discrete points can be measured. In the case of this drill the precision needed for micrometer would be sacrificed for coarser stepped speed control.
Great vid. Now scope the fet for us, we want to see the pwm signal :-)
amazed you were able to re-assemble it :)
hi. can you take a look inside cheap brushless trigger switch and modify it for smooth speed control please
Ave has done it probably 5-10 times atleast. in his BOLTR series.
Interesting. I took one of these apart many years ago, but it was just a slide potentiometer attached to the trigger, and the gearbox was broken so I didn't attempt reassembly. I'm impressed you got that back together.
You should do that vid at the 20th of March and loose all of the jumping parts and yell "Yes! It's spring time!" Haha
Roll on spring time :)
i subed and left like for doing somthing that noone did
Sacrifice the DRILL!!! :-) Thanks for the education!! :-)
My cheap drill goes from 0 to 100, took it apart but don’t see what could be wrong with it… any videos out there ?
Nice video.
1:37 "are those not Philips, no they're not" he says, holding a Pozidrive screwdriver. It amazes me how many people confuse the two. Pozidrive screwdrivers don't fit Philips screws !😫
Can you do a load test mate
Are you kidding?! There isn't a mechanism that Julian cannot get back together. Maybe a Swiss watch, not sure. ;-0
Buenas tardes, espero puedas traducir a tu idioma mi pregunta.
El interruptor acelerador de mi taladro, dejó de mandar energía al motor, pero al accionarlo se siente un pulso de energía que quiere mover al motor y prende la lámpara al mismo tiempo durante 1/4 de segundo y nada más. Viendo que desarmaste uno igual para este video, quiero preguntarte ¿ es posible que se haya quemado el transistor ? todos los contactos del interruptor funcionan bien, la batería está cargada y funciona bien (la probé en otro taladro), el motor está limpio y no está trabado, es decir, el problema está en la electrónica del pulsador ¿ cual es tu opinión ? ¿ podrías darme algún consejo que no sea cambiar el interruptor completo ?
Saludos y gracias por tu aporte, me sirvió mucho tu video. 👍
There's probably some kid right now laughing at watching you take hours over something s/he does in 10 seconds or less at some factory in China! Thanks for the info Julian, I always assumed it was some sort of variable resistance. Live and learn eh?
I am currently working on an project where I am trying to control the speed of the drill externally.
I found a way now with arduino, external power supply and mosfet module but since the powersupplies never give the right amp peaks (i guess?) the motor is constantly suffering.
The basic Idea now is that the power comes from the battery back and the voltage is controlled by an external potentiometer (not a trigger, dont ask, its for an art project ).
Any smart Ideas about that? thanks for the vid anyway!
Dankeschön
Just taking a multi tool variable speed controller to bits full of dust
A 555 with irs associated components is more expensive than a microcontroller programmed for generating pwm in following a voltage red with it's A/D converter.
An interesting video. Upvoted.
"...and I'll have to suck the hole..." - Julian, 2021
Hello, could you please write the value of the schottky diode used on the trigger.
Looks like a very capable little drill for the price. I do wonder why they don’t use a 555 for simple PWM stuff like this, but I’m very much not well versed in EE stuff.
Hi. Can u help me
What is this big diode information?
Thanx for enjoyable vidoeos.😊
just a question, can you cut those connectors and somehow connect a esc to it to make it remote, just looking at a project to see if it would be suitable to make it remote control, cheers
Awesome !!!
Damn.
I recently bought a Jigsaw Machine that, a few weeks later stopped working. They refound the money and let me to keep the thing, i'd like to try fixing it like you did here.
What happens is that the motor doesnt work when the trigger is pressed, it tries to turn, but is like if it's stuck somehow. Then i realize that if you keep pressing many times the trigger, eventually the engine start working, and if you dont let go the switch, the motor keeps working as a clock. But if you left go the switch, the issue remains.
Initially i thought it was the engine, but due to that the trigger is to blame. It is the exact same model as the one the drill in your video has.
ill try opening it and see what's going inside, but im sure ill make a mess with the trigger hahaha. Ill order a new one if that's the case.
Got generic replacement triggers from aliexpress a couple of years ago fitted into my Ryobi 1+ drill and driver think they were about £3
The guys that design these things wanted to build ray guns.
Nice one Julian 😅 yeah even AvE never took apart the speed control 🤣😳
Just think. Somewhere on this planet is a drawing of that piece of metal that adhered to your arm.
I've been looking at the still image of the 8 pin SOT. I think it's a 555 timer, not too sure. It looks like pin 3 goes to the gate. The chip cap goes to pin 6. Pin 4 and 8 might be connected together under the chip. And the multi tapped speed switch looks like it adds or subtracts series resistors that might be connected to the chip cap. Pretty much the standard 555 astable oscillator.
What would be doing the LED delay function?
@@Brian_Of_Melbourne It's the bottom pcb that does the led delay, the switch triggers it to turn on.
So much technology and engineering in those switches that when it breaks down, because eventually it will break down, we are left with a tough choice of bin the tool or pay half of what the tool cost for a brand new switch. In this case, as this drill is a cheap drill, don’t be surprised if the switch alone is way more expensive than the drill itself. This week the switch in one of my multi tools gone faulty. The price for the switch is more than half the price the tool cost brand new. Bloody annoying.
Hi, I have the same drill and I recently blocked the chuck, after stopping it, the led remained on and the drill turned full speed. I found a burnt hole under the MOSFET! The copper track that crosses was gone. I fixed it, but the MOSFET got hot. Can I replace it with an IRF540? THX for this video.
How can we make a variable speed control as complicated as possible with a high failure rate?...here ya go! lol..
such a bargain, and a lot less to go wrong than on a modern $150 brushless unit. seems to me even if I buy the top brand vs the bargain brand as long as it has Lithion batteries they all seem to last the same before they get lost, dropped in the lake or stolen...or just plain die..
I agree.
I wonder if that spark could start a fire under the right conditions, looks like quite a spark there. What if someone was working around gas fumes?
Until the evolution of brushless motors, all drill motors (battery and mains) sparked at the brushes. So this is a well understood situation. Anyone working in potentially explosive or inflammable conditions will be using intrinsically safe tools.